@@294ethan Hi Ethan , I hope John will reply back, But most of the time no news is good news. If John followed the instructions, he should have had no problems.
HTS-735-11 is a second generation rod that contains NO aluminum. This makes it easier to use than the rods you asked about. HTS-735-11 is only sold on our website Aluminum-weld.com.
I have used these and other brands of Aluminum Brazing rods as well as tig, stick and mig welding aluminum. They all have their place. One thing that is never mentioned and haven't seen a single video about is using a flux after cleaning to reduce oxides? Clean parent metal is essential in most welding / brazing. I would think some simple flux would make all of this brazing much easier....
Hello..Nice video..I’m hearing some water in my pontoon tube. I saw how to repair, but how do I find where the water is coming from? I heard you need to add some air in valve? Do you have any videos on that? Your thoughts
I would use something like a shop vaccum cleaner that can be reversed, air pump, or leaf blower held over the drain opened drain to add air pressure to the tube and apply soapy water and look for bubbles.
Is this process strong enough to bond aluminum bungs to the pontoons? (I intend to drill holes around 12 o'clock position of the tubes to add threaded pipe plugs to ad air pressure/suck out water maintenance)
Yes Sir, you will have plenty of strength ( 45000 psi tensile strength), make sure the rod is melted by the heated aluminum. Watch my strength videos, the old butt joint and TEE Joint videos. You can always call if you have questions. website aluminum-weld.com
I have a pontoon boat with stripped out drain plug holes. Can I use this to build up the holes so I can re-tap them? - BTW: I'm really looking forward to this for scag repair!
Sure I have a video at ruclips.net/user/aluminum-weld You will have to get a backing in order to fill the hole and you will have to work from the top, not overhead. In my video i fill in around a steel bolt and form the threads when I remove the bolt.
I've got an old aluminum boat with holes in it. Much easier to use than my LIncoln Precision TIG 185 welder. Just got my second order, this stuff is great. I cringe when I see people using epoxy to fix boats, what a shame.
I take a 1/4” clear hose and tape a wire coat hanger to it and bend the coat hanger straight and siphon out the water. I drained over 55gallons out of my toon yesterday! Hoping to find and fix the leak soon
I'm going to drill a 1/4" hole in each section. I'm going to use these rods to fill the hole. Be sure to open the plugs in the top of the toon to allow air flow.
Hi Joseph, Sure will pass that test if you follow the instructions. The aluminum MUST melt the rod,NOT the torch. It works much like soldering. Clean the area to remove the oxide, heat and test until the rod melts, back off the heat and apply the rod, Let it slow cool. If a crack appears after it cools, then heat the area so the rod remelts, soften the rod in the flame and build up the area of the crack.
A properly made brazed joint (like a welded joint) will in many cases be as strong or stronger than the metals being joined. ... This base metal integrity is characteristic of all brazed joints, including both thin- and thick-section joints. Also, the lower heat minimizes danger of metal distortion or warping.
Yes Sir you can! I have an overhead video that show this repair. The rod will sag but not drip. The key is to TIN the area let is slightly cool. Then you can add more rod to the TINNED area. Practice a little first and control the heat using distance. I have videos showing heat control and even an overhead repair of a soda can. RUclips.com/c/aluminum-weld
I am using HTS-735-11 from aluminum-weld.com. This product is made in the USA, and sold only from the website aluminum-weld.com. Additional videos at ruclips.net/user/aluminum-weld
I have a 1984 pontoon boat. I have a crack where the deck support meets the pontoon so it is somewhat structural. First question is.....does it matter how I clean the working area...I heard u mention something about it not mattering for some reason....yet todays welders want to clean the area in a specific way. Can I use a grinder....a wire wheel....a brusjh? Second question is.......will these welds be strong.....structural strong?
Hi Jim, Good questions. First you cannot get aluminum too clean, but because these second generation rod contain no aluminum they are tolerant of less than clean aluminum. So you do not need a stainless steel brush, and yes you can use a grinder, wire wheel or brush. Just get down the good aluminum. And make 100% sure that you KEEP the ROD OUT of THE FLAME. The aluminum must melt the rod for this to work. I have addition videos on youtube showing this. Also I have strength videos watch the TEE joint and Butt Joint videos. They are structurally strong when used correctly. You can always call me. Contact info on my website aluminum-weld.com
@@Aluminum-weld I am very interested in being able to do my own welds. The technique that u used in this video seemed easy enough to me. Maybe the T or Butt joints are more difficult. Since you are offering....I might just call you. I would like to order product but want to make sure its the right stuff to give me a fighting chance to get it right. I have been quoted $350 from a mobile welder......I am afraid if I start grinding away at the previous weld maybe I will end up with a huge crack!!! Yikes.....but then could use a patch as showed in your vid.........
@@Aluminum-weld Ok my man.....the time has come to order your product and give it a shot. Are u suggesting that Sunday after 1pm is the best time to call you? I have a few questions before I order...just let me know the best time to call and I will do so....thanks
you'd be better off ,tried it but its not up to the job for a repair where strength is needed, If there is any stress whatsoever as soon as it cools you will still have your crack. I wasted money on two orders of this stuff , tried doing a patch, cleaned it spotless and used Map gas . Soon as it cools back to square one Adhesion is an issue strength is even worse , I bought a tig welder and am learning to use it
These rods are ONLY SOLD at aluminum-weld.com our website. We DO NOT sell on Amazon.
I bought an old pontoon boat and found a crack and water leak in one of the pontoons. Going to try to repair it with your rods. Thanks for the video
Great! Feel free to call me if you have any questions.
Did it work out? I recently got an old pontoon boat and need to weld a couple small holes.
@@294ethan Hi Ethan , I hope John will reply back, But most of the time no news is good news. If John followed the instructions, he should have had no problems.
@@294ethan You have to try this stuff, use map gas.
Great job
I bought some rods like this years ago I think it was called Alumaweld or Aluma-weld, I'm curious if this is the same stuff.
HTS-735-11 is a second generation rod that contains NO aluminum. This makes it easier to use than the rods you asked about. HTS-735-11 is only sold on our website Aluminum-weld.com.
I have used these and other brands of Aluminum Brazing rods as well as tig, stick and mig welding aluminum. They all have their place. One thing that is never mentioned and haven't seen a single video about is using a flux after cleaning to reduce oxides? Clean parent metal is essential in most welding / brazing. I would think some simple flux would make all of this brazing much easier....
Flux is not required, this HTS-735-11 Rod contains no aluminum so a cleaning of the oxides is normally all that is required.
Thank you
Hello..Nice video..I’m hearing some water in my pontoon tube. I saw how to repair, but how do I find where the water is coming from? I heard you need to add some air in valve? Do you have any videos on that? Your thoughts
I would use something like a shop vaccum cleaner that can be reversed, air pump, or leaf blower held over the drain opened drain to add air pressure to the tube and apply soapy water and look for bubbles.
Awsome tutorial
Is this process strong enough to bond aluminum bungs to the pontoons? (I intend to drill holes around 12 o'clock position of the tubes to add threaded pipe plugs to ad air pressure/suck out water maintenance)
Yes Sir, you will have plenty of strength ( 45000 psi tensile strength), make sure the rod is melted by the heated aluminum. Watch my strength videos, the old butt joint and TEE Joint videos. You can always call if you have questions. website aluminum-weld.com
I have a pontoon boat with stripped out drain plug holes. Can I use this to build up the holes so I can re-tap them? - BTW: I'm really looking forward to this for scag repair!
Sure I have a video at ruclips.net/user/aluminum-weld You will have to get a backing in order to fill the hole and you will have to work from the top, not overhead. In my video i fill in around a steel bolt and form the threads when I remove the bolt.
I've got an old aluminum boat with holes in it. Much easier to use than my LIncoln Precision TIG 185 welder. Just got my second order, this stuff is great. I cringe when I see people using epoxy to fix boats, what a shame.
You got anything that’s stronger than 700 Fahrenheit? Like 1000?
Good job
Thanks
How do you remove all water from a pontoon before trying to fix it?
I take a 1/4” clear hose and tape a wire coat hanger to it and bend the coat hanger straight and siphon out the water. I drained over 55gallons out of my toon yesterday! Hoping to find and fix the leak soon
HKE Adventures do you have a picture or video of you doing this? I’m having the same problem and would like to drain the water from mine
I'm going to drill a 1/4" hole in each section. I'm going to use these rods to fill the hole. Be sure to open the plugs in the top of the toon to allow air flow.
Will this pass a pressure test on the toon to check for leaks?
Hi Joseph,
Sure will pass that test if you follow the instructions. The aluminum MUST melt the rod,NOT the torch. It works much like soldering. Clean the area to remove the oxide, heat and test until the rod melts, back off the heat and apply the rod, Let it slow cool. If a crack appears after it cools, then heat the area so the rod remelts, soften the rod in the flame and build up the area of the crack.
@@Aluminum-weld Thank you. Have a toon in need of repair and this is where i ended up in my search. Very knowledgeable. Appreciate it.
Wonder if heating aluminum that much may weaken that particular spot and make it brittle.
A properly made brazed joint (like a welded joint) will in many cases be as strong or stronger than the metals being joined. ... This base metal integrity is characteristic of all brazed joints, including both thin- and thick-section joints. Also, the lower heat minimizes danger of metal distortion or warping.
Can I lay on a creeper and weld overhead?
Yes Sir you can! I have an overhead video that show this repair. The rod will sag but not drip. The key is to TIN the area let is slightly cool. Then you can add more rod to the TINNED area. Practice a little first and control the heat using distance. I have videos showing heat control and even an overhead repair of a soda can. RUclips.com/c/aluminum-weld
What type of rod are you using?
I am using HTS-735-11 from aluminum-weld.com. This product is made in the USA, and sold only from the website aluminum-weld.com. Additional videos at ruclips.net/user/aluminum-weld
can you use a oxygen/acetylene torch?
Chris Kirtland Yes sir you can use any heat source you just must get the aluminum to 735° use the rod as a temp stick
I have a 1984 pontoon boat. I have a crack where the deck support meets the pontoon so it is somewhat structural. First question is.....does it matter how I clean the working area...I heard u mention something about it not mattering for some reason....yet todays welders want to clean the area in a specific way. Can I use a grinder....a wire wheel....a brusjh?
Second question is.......will these welds be strong.....structural strong?
Hi Jim, Good questions. First you cannot get aluminum too clean, but because these second generation rod contain no aluminum they are tolerant of less than clean aluminum. So you do not need a stainless steel brush, and yes you can use a grinder, wire wheel or brush. Just get down the good aluminum. And make 100% sure that you KEEP the ROD OUT of THE FLAME. The aluminum must melt the rod for this to work. I have addition videos on youtube showing this. Also I have strength videos watch the TEE joint and Butt Joint videos. They are structurally strong when used correctly. You can always call me. Contact info on my website aluminum-weld.com
@@Aluminum-weld I am very interested in being able to do my own welds. The technique that u used in this video seemed easy enough to me. Maybe the T or Butt joints are more difficult. Since you are offering....I might just call you. I would like to order product but want to make sure its the right stuff to give me a fighting chance to get it right. I have been quoted $350 from a mobile welder......I am afraid if I start grinding away at the previous weld maybe I will end up with a huge crack!!! Yikes.....but then could use a patch as showed in your vid.........
@@jimv1484 Give me a call anytime after 1:00pm Sunday .
@@Aluminum-weld Ok my man.....the time has come to order your product and give it a shot. Are u suggesting that Sunday after 1pm is the best time to call you? I have a few questions before I order...just let me know the best time to call and I will do so....thanks
@@jimv1484 Hi Jim sure any time Sunday after 1:00pm or from 9:00 am to 9:00pm Monday - Saturday
I'll stick to my tig welder........
you'd be better off ,tried it but its not up to the job for a repair where strength is needed, If there is any stress whatsoever as soon as it cools you will still have your crack. I wasted money on two orders of this stuff , tried doing a patch, cleaned it spotless and used Map gas . Soon as it cools back to square one Adhesion is an issue strength is even worse , I bought a tig welder and am learning to use it