30+ years ago, my first job was grinding. These old #2 grinders were great machines. Last week of the year, we tore them down, scraped the ways and reground the table ways. The table ways were mic with one of the bearings and shims were used.
Hi, I remember a fellow purchased new ball tracks and had to shim them when installing, my machine of the same age had the tracks replaced at some point, I purchased new balls from a major bearing house but still had to gage each one because at the time there was no "absolute precision" standard such as grade 7 for loose balls, it makes a difference on table smoothness that is touched upon in the Barden bearing manuals. My war time machine the tables were never ground they were planed with the idea of the user scraping in as needed. Most of the time errors in the machines are not noticed because the grinding is in very short moves. Good luck with the work head for any cylindrical grinding the bearings in the standard work head will show a rough finish if bad or had been disturbed as the tapers are ground in place. At one time factory rebuild for the work head was $4500 and 2800 for spindle bearing rebuild. The lathe tool post grinder can be mounted on the wheel head for internal grinding and flute grinding with an L bracket. I spanked the competition with this machine and the Sunnen honing equipment!
Dee Dee, i watch all your vids, glad you saw this. Thank you for the info! My machine had two sets of centers, don't know how they spun the workpiece. The workhead I bought separate is 50 taper/ B/S taper which i believe is like yours. I have to make a sheave for it as it didn't come with one. There is a spindle extension mounted which I would like to remove, but it is locked on tight. Nothing to grab at the other end of the spindle to counterhold... suggestions? I just bought a Dumore toolpost grinder and have started playing with it. Will probably entertain a marriage to the Cinci at some point. Also getting an Abrasive No 1-1/2 surface grinder that is close and inexpensive... never thought I'd have such a grinding department 😁
Howdy from central Michigan. I have a Dawson, evolved into Royal Oak. My tool head is crude in mounting and or missing a tilt table. So that needs to be made. I hope to learn all i can from you, as my Grinder unit is decent quality and condition. Sadly my air bearing seems to be designed for a right of the wheel travel, and my grinder table is designed for left so i need to make a table extension i guess. I would buy a different work head, but i have all the cams for it, the locating rings and a full set of collets including squares and hex, and a face plate with many mount points drilled, and a 3 jaw chuck. Howdy from central Michigan. As an added bonus, my themac7 tool post grinder mounts on the rear of the grinder tower, which rotates 360 degrees. So i can really cut any angle, or helix grind, but... still a ways off from end mills and drill bits.
Yeah, can't say I've done any cutters yet, except for the occasional lathe tool by hand. Working on a drive pulley for the workhead currently. Good luck with your setup, sounds nice!
Very cool to see another Cinci#2 on YT. I have a newer machine with the motor in the workhead. You are doing better than I am, mine has been sitting for 2 years. I am hoping to get some time on it this winter. I have a bunch of tooling, but certainly not everything. If I can help with photos or dimensions, I am glad to do so. Looking forward to more videos as you have them.
I have a Cincinnati #2 Tool & Cutter Grinder in my garage in great condition, with almost new air spindle for sale , all tooling included for $1000, if your interested .
Your test fails to prove if the issue is the table is slanted or if it is the table moving up and down under the indicator due to wear in the in and out axis.
If the in/out ways were that worn, i'd expect a measurement to dip then return like a banana. I believe they're double vee ways, large contact area. They travel maybe 5% - 10% as much as the side to side ball races, whuch have point contact. Not proof, but I'd take odds it's all in the ball races.
did you mic yer balls? so they are all the same size, I bought some and was amazed the difference between them. rather than shimming couldn't you do some trig and get smaller balls? for the high side.
Couldn't discern more than .0001" variation from biggest to smallest... so my balls are the same size, thank you very much 😁 Didn't think of installing smaller balls on one rail, already have shim coming.
Very nice project. Great work
Thanks, starting to do some small jobs on the grinder and loving it.
Operated # 2s for 30 years . Brings back memories
I'm sure you watch Don Dyar (Dee Dee), he uses his all the time.
30+ years ago, my first job was grinding. These old #2 grinders were great machines. Last week of the year, we tore them down, scraped the ways and reground the table ways. The table ways were mic with one of the bearings and shims were used.
Hi, I remember a fellow purchased new ball tracks and had to shim them when installing, my machine of the same age had the tracks replaced at some point, I purchased new balls from a major bearing house but still had to gage each one because at the time there was no "absolute precision" standard such as grade 7 for loose balls, it makes a difference on table smoothness that is touched upon in the Barden bearing manuals. My war time machine the tables were never ground they were planed with the idea of the user scraping in as needed. Most of the time errors in the machines are not noticed because the grinding is in very short moves. Good luck with the work head for any cylindrical grinding the bearings in the standard work head will show a rough finish if bad or had been disturbed as the tapers are ground in place. At one time factory rebuild for the work head was $4500 and 2800 for spindle bearing rebuild. The lathe tool post grinder can be mounted on the wheel head for internal grinding and flute grinding with an L bracket. I spanked the competition with this machine and the Sunnen honing equipment!
Dee Dee, i watch all your vids, glad you saw this. Thank you for the info! My machine had two sets of centers, don't know how they spun the workpiece. The workhead I bought separate is 50 taper/ B/S taper which i believe is like yours. I have to make a sheave for it as it didn't come with one. There is a spindle extension mounted which I would like to remove, but it is locked on tight. Nothing to grab at the other end of the spindle to counterhold... suggestions? I just bought a Dumore toolpost grinder and have started playing with it. Will probably entertain a marriage to the Cinci at some point. Also getting an Abrasive No 1-1/2 surface grinder that is close and inexpensive... never thought I'd have such a grinding department 😁
Will be nice to see this back in operational trim. Hope ir'll be an easy one for you
Pretty much works as is, just needs some tweaks.
Howdy from central Michigan. I have a Dawson, evolved into Royal Oak. My tool head is crude in mounting and or missing a tilt table. So that needs to be made. I hope to learn all i can from you, as my Grinder unit is decent quality and condition. Sadly my air bearing seems to be designed for a right of the wheel travel, and my grinder table is designed for left so i need to make a table extension i guess. I would buy a different work head, but i have all the cams for it, the locating rings and a full set of collets including squares and hex, and a face plate with many mount points drilled, and a 3 jaw chuck. Howdy from central Michigan. As an added bonus, my themac7 tool post grinder mounts on the rear of the grinder tower, which rotates 360 degrees. So i can really cut any angle, or helix grind, but... still a ways off from end mills and drill bits.
Yeah, can't say I've done any cutters yet, except for the occasional lathe tool by hand. Working on a drive pulley for the workhead currently. Good luck with your setup, sounds nice!
Very cool to see another Cinci#2 on YT. I have a newer machine with the motor in the workhead. You are doing better than I am, mine has been sitting for 2 years. I am hoping to get some time on it this winter. I have a bunch of tooling, but certainly not everything. If I can help with photos or dimensions, I am glad to do so. Looking forward to more videos as you have them.
Working on the next one, have the shim for the ways. Any hints on how to remove stuck spindle extensions? Nothing to grab/counterhold on other end...
I have a Cincinnati #2 Tool & Cutter Grinder in my garage in great condition, with almost new air spindle for sale , all tooling included for $1000, if your interested .
I have a few #2 grinders. One is a newer one with the motor up top and it has plastic ball guides like yours. My olders ones have brass ball guides
What do you need to mount your work head. I may have an extra one.
@TheJohndeere466 Just bought the rt angle piece off ebay. Need a base. Also have no index plates or collets.
@@EngineersWorkshop I think I have an extra base. Mine has an adapter that fits in the brown and sharp taper so it will except 5 c collets.
@TheJohndeere466 I'd buy that base, my email is in the channel info. Bought one 50 Taper to ER-40 collet arbor for endmills.
Looked like Paul Sabastiano on the fork lift. --Doozer
I did not get their names 😁
The cages will simply move a slightly different amount
Both races always seem to hit the end stops simultaneously. On one side the balls are sliding.
Your test fails to prove if the issue is the table is slanted or if it is the table moving up and down under the indicator due to wear in the in and out axis.
If the in/out ways were that worn, i'd expect a measurement to dip then return like a banana. I believe they're double vee ways, large contact area. They travel maybe 5% - 10% as much as the side to side ball races, whuch have point contact. Not proof, but I'd take odds it's all in the ball races.
@@EngineersWorkshop Should have verified on surface plate when it was off. You are probably right but it is an assumption.
I get your meaning, auxiliary table was ground on both sides and is flat/parallel within .001" over it's length and width
did you mic yer balls? so they are all the same size, I bought some and was amazed the difference between them. rather than shimming couldn't you do some trig and get smaller balls? for the high side.
Couldn't discern more than .0001" variation from biggest to smallest... so my balls are the same size, thank you very much 😁 Didn't think of installing smaller balls on one rail, already have shim coming.