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Battle of the Bodice Slopers - Testing Out Pattern Drafting Systems
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- Hi! Thanks for watching the first video on the FoleyDressed RUclips Channel!
In this video, I compare two different pattern drafting systems and how they do patterning a bodice sloper. The two books I use for this video are: 'Pattern Making for Fashion Design' by Helen Joseph Armstrong and 'Patternmaking' by Dennic Chunman Lo. You will see the whole process from looking at measurement charts, drafting, cutting out and sewing the mockup, and doing a fitting. This is the first instalment of a series on this channel where I will be testing out a variety of pattern drafting systems.
0:00-1:32 Intro
1:32-2:41 Books
2:41-6:03 Drafting the Patterns
6:03-6:18 Stitching the Mockups
6:18-7:28 Fitting
7:28-10:01 Final Thoughts
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★ Books in this Video ★
Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Patterncutting by Dennic Chunman Lo
Thank you for bearing with my growing pains as I learn how to make quality RUclips videos. I know that there were some inconsistencies in lighting, sound, and cuts and these are all lessons that I will continue to improve upon.
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No one else has done a video like this. This is so cool.
Thank you so much! I am hoping to do more soon!
Totally agree
I am passionate about sewing and have been tracing my patterns myself for 40 years. each method has its particularity; I learned to draw my patterns from all the measurements taken on the person to be dressed and you have to take them with precision - you have to take the time to double-check - with this way of proceeding I am sure to have a pattern that suits this perfectly.
Love this video, I have both books/I found the HJA more difficult to follow as there are more measurements to take and therefore more steps to follow. And also, you're 100% correct about having both waist darts and shoulder as instructed in the DCL book, does result in a better fitting bodice and allow for easier pattern alterations (i.e. adding a princess seam).
***One very important correction to this video. The DCL book does have a section on how to take measurements: At the very last two pages of the book p 238-239.*** Lastly, I agree that fitting correction is a crucial part of the whole process, and therefore every pattern drafting book should include a section on how to correct fitting issues, which is missing from the DCL book. for best results: I use both books :)
Thank you so much for the correction! I never thought to check for fitting instruction at the back of the book, but it is so good to know that is there for people new to drafting!
Hi, I absolutely love your videos! Which systems did you used in the past with better fitting slopers? Very curious about your opinions on better ones. Thank you for sharing valuable information with us, can't wait for more videos!
Dennic Chunaman Lo's Book has a second edition which covers most of what you said was missing. Thanks for testing the books and giving me a look at the results. Most people just say they are good and leave it at that. From this video and the pants video it was easy to see which method gave the best result.
Thanks to your review, I got my copy of Dennic’s book and I am super excited. I can’t wait to try his method. What sold me on it was the explanation of the impact of gravity on dress making. This helps to visualize and design better. Thank you!
What a wonderful video! Thanks for taking the time to film your experiments. I really hope you do more videos like this, and I look forward to discovering what flat pattern drafting method you like best, and why.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it, I am planning on make more videos soon!
I really appreciate you making this video. I really enjoy this series and it definitely helps me to understanding block drafing a lot better! Thankyou!!
Yes I have Helen's book and I love how my standard blocks are coming out !! I'm still very new to it but I loved this video thank you
I've wanted to get into pattern drafting so this was really helpful. Thanks for doing the research, looked like a lot of effort.
A good subject to talk about. Thanks a lot for sharing 💐
I just bought the Helen from recommendation from another channel and love that you said this books method was easier to follow. While I do usually want to know the absolute why certain things are done I have trouble with convoluted explainations. When you started giving an example of the Dennic wording my brain actually did its normal check out routine. I still will get the Dennic book aswell now because of the ease explanations and well references and resources are always good to have on hand I will be using the Helen first. Thank you for the information.
I've been wanting to learn pattern drafting. Thank You for sharing with us your experience.
Thank you for this valuable video !
I made a tutorial for the basic Bodice by Helen, I’ve noticed too that there are gapings on the back and front armholes and the fit isn’t that amazing but for me it is okay, because on the Helen book, there are chapters that will teach us pattern makers on how to adjust or alter the bodices. I haven’t tried the other systems aside from Helen and my school’s system. But overall I am satisfied with this video very well explained! Thank you so much for sharing this!!!
Interesting that you saw the same issue I did! I do like the adjustment instructions Helen wrote. Thanks for your comment, Im glad you enjoyed the video!
I loved this video! Super helpful :)
This video is great! I used the Helen Armstrong method in school and it has been my go-to reference for patterning question I have. I’m excited to check out the Chunman Lo method. I hope you do more videos! Thanks! ❤️
Thank you so much! You definetly should check it out, it is a pretty cool method!
love your vidoes! thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the review, nice job
Me encanta lo aplicada que eres para investigar sobre estos temas, es que me encanta!! gracias, desde chile
Really love your videos, they go through the process of drafting the pattern, then seeing how the finished pattern fits your body. They way testing a draft should be done. You mentioned that theses are not the books you usually use for pattern drafting what patter book do you use. I have been struggling to find a patternmaking book, have used the book by Rohr, and loved the simplicity.
Loved this! Thank you for sharing x
Thank you for wathcing!
this is exactly the video i was looking for, please I would love if could make a in depth video on how you follow up the instructions for each pattern specially the Dennim one. Thankssss
I am glad you enjoyed it! That is definitely something I can look into doing!
Just stumbled onto your channel, great video! Can't wait to watch the rest of your content. :)
Thank you so much! Very happy that you are here!
This is good. Keep it up!
Thank you so much!
Good day I love your works
Thank you so much for this!!!!
Of course! I am so glad you liked it!
this was so helpful! you have no idea!
I'm so glad that it helped you out!
Have you considered the Lutterloh system? The golden ratio says we only need one measurement each for top and bottom to have the perfect fit. Bust and hip. Everything is a ratio from there. We should be able to make perfect patterns based only on those two measurements for any body.
Can you mention the full book name please ??
brilliant
Your point of view is professional and the video makes us save money and a lot of time and effort.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thank you for your sharing.
What is/are your favourite pattern drafting system(s)? I'm super curious about that from the perspective of someone with your pro background. Quality content. Thank you.
Hi! I am glad you liked the video! I don't currently have a favorite unfortunately, which is part of the reason that I am doing this series. I do however find myself draping on my form a lot and would say that is my current go to method for making my own patterns!
@@FoleyDressed me too … was just hoping there was a flat pattern method that was a Go To when draping isn’t possible.
That was very helpful for my fashion school thankyou. You mentioned that you had other pattern drafting systems you preferred, would you mind giving me their names so i can look them up? Thanks again
I also drafted the Helen one, but according to the charts measurements, and it was also too big.
I'm looking for a book of instructions about how to do patterns. I loved the fitting with the Dennic pattern
I'm glad my video could help!
"The only limitation is your imagination".
Epic Quote.
I have been intimidated by Armstrong's book. Which two did you say you got a better fit from?
This is so helpful, I use the Helen book for everything except her bodice sloper as I never was successful with her pattern, I use the
sloper from a book by Martin Shoben and use that with Helen's book, unfortunately I lost my sloper and have to start again
I will have to check that book out!
@@FoleyDressed I just drafted the bodice from HJA and it turned out really well on the first try, This may be because I ignored the amount of ease she suggests and only added a half inch total to bust and waist.
Closet historian videos can help with the Helen drafting and darts. It was the text book she used in school and she troubleshoots a lot of those issues.
what are Closet historian videos?
a channel?
@@PinPinKula youtube.com/@TheClosetHistorian
Yes indeedy. She's very thorough and helpful and generous with her knowledge.
Thank you for the very helpful explanation. As a beginner, I’ll follow your recommendation and try the Dennic system while reading Helen troubleshooting guide. I’m curious in the video, you have mentioned you have tried better drafting systems, would you mind sharing what those are? Thank you!
Very useful. What a shame helens sloper didn’t fit better. It was quite shocking. It needed a shoulder dart.
But the rest of her book sounded better.
What other systems have you used. This was a very interesting video. Thanks.
I think the gaping in the armhole in the second mock is normal since it's supposed to go with a sleeve.
Not necessarily! You usually don’t want any gaping in the armhole of a sloper or else it wouldn’t lay flat, even if a sleeve was put in. However slopers aren’t drafted on the assumption that a sleeve is going in, as not all bodices have sleeves 😊
I’ve been trying to figure out what type of methods are there for flat pattern making and which books would use to easiest.
i hope you keep this series going and that you move on to sleeves. I have used a class from Craftsy by Suzy Furrer. She is super detailed and it took a LONG time to make my sloper but its awesome now that it is done. HOWEVER, I can NOT get sleeves that allow me to move freely no matter how much I try drafting new ones according to her methods. I just feel like there has to be an easier way...or something I am missing...
That is a fabulous idea! I will definitely do sleeves in the future!
Thank you so much for making such a detailed video! Would you mind sharing what pattern drafting methods you believe are the best to use??
I am glad you enjoyed it! I honestly still don't have a favorite. I have made a couple of pattern drafting videos and there are definitely pros and cons of each system. However I am hoping to keep working through and will hopefully find one I like and when I do I will definitely share!
Could you try the Fernando Burgo method pleaseeeee, I got the book but Im having problems understanding. Thank you for your time!
I really really appreciate your video. There are so many texts available on this subject and I have spent a lot of time trying to determine which one is best. About 10 years ago, I purchased Don McCunn's book, "How to Make Sewing Patterns". I've had a difficult time following the steps. I would love to hear your opinion about that book.
Thanks.
Excellent video. You're a good instructor . Comparable to Zoe Hong. I'll be checking on you in the future.
Thank you so much! That is a very high compliment 😊
What kind of paper , weight and size did you use to draft your pattern? Thank you.
Thanks for doing this video -- I'm just starting out with pattern drafting and you answered questions I didn't know I had! I was wondering, which other drafting systems you were referencing at the end of the video, the ones that produced better results?
I am glad it was helpful! I am going to make a whole video about ones I like, but honestly I usually use different ones basically every time I draft or I will just drape on the form. So this is very much an activity of discovery for me as well!
OMG! You deserve more likes! I loved your video. You video help me a lot! HELP ME! WHAT METHOD YOU USED FOR BASIC PATTERNS?
Thank you so much! Right now I am mainly draping on my dress form but I will hopefully be finding a favorite system soon!
Have you tried the Lutterloh system?
Would you be able to explain why or where the universal measurements come from?
For a straight forward bodice sloper I would rather use the Surefit Designs system or Diane Diezel's instructions, both extensively demonstrated on RUclips . For Surefit you need to order the dress pattern and design drafter, Diane's system is similar to Helen's but has darts from the shoulder as well, both in front and in the back so that you can also create the princess style. She gives all info on RUclips. There is no perfect book or system but both worked better for me than many other well praised books. Some good books are dated in their approach, reflecting the fashion in their time. Once the sloper first assembled, it needs fitting tweaks. I think that a good fitting book is a necessary companion. Only thereafter come all the books and video's describing how to achieve a certain style, collars, sleeves , a.s.o.
That's what I do too
Are these two books in imperial measurement or metric
I want to start making my own patterns. Is it better to take a basic store bought pattern and making personal alterations to customize it or just start from scratch?
Both options are equally valid, I have personally done both. I think if you are interested in learning how to draft then starting from scratch is definitely a crash course in understanding what kind of three-dimensional shapes are created by two dimensional patterns. I know there are some video courses on making slopers if the thought of working from a book is a little intimidating. I am more of a visual learner so when I started learning how to draft I mainly watched videos. I hope this helps!
Where did you get the books
Dennic has a second edition now with links to measuring video’s
thanks for this, please can do natalie dartless bodice
Thanks for sharing! This is a good video. Richpeace CAD software is a good helper for making patterns, and it is very convenient to use it to make patterns.
Hi❤️❤️ fabulous videos about different pattern drafting techniques❤️❤️ i have a question. As a professional do you think it’s better to use for example Helen Joseph Armstrong’s drafting technique to draft patterns and sell the patterns online (Etsy possibly❤️) , or do you think it’s the better option to learn how to drape. I’m only familiar with Armstrong’s drafting technique. But am worried that if I was to draft a pattern and sell it online, it would possibly not be legal. Please help❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️😘
Hi! Thank you! That is a very good question and honestly I am not 100% sure on the answer. One thing I do know is that all of the drapers I know in professional costumes shops do have favorite pattern drafting systems that they will use to draft patterns off of and then make adjusmetns from there. Sometimes they will combine elements of multiple systems they like. And of course they will also drape. As far as the legailty when it comes to selling those patterns I am honeslty not 100% sure! I feel like it would ultimately come down to how much you change the pattern and if you add anything unique to it.
Hey love your video! You said u have drafted slopers that gave u a much better fit than these two. Which ones were they? 🙏🏽❤️
Yes, it would be great to hear about the better systems. I haven’t noticed gaping with Helen’s, but it would be nice to compare with the better 2 systems. Thank you for the video 🙏
Thank you very much! So it depends on the garment, but for a bodice sloper so far the system that has given me the best fit was the Suzy Furrer pattern drafting system on Craftsy. That is the first system I learned to use when I very first started sewing. However the downside is that it is behind a paywall and I do find videos can be slightly less convenient to follow along with than a book. But I am hoping to review it again now that I am more experienced and see if it still holds up! I’m sorry that isn’t the most satisfying answer but that is why I’m doing this series! 😊
@@FoleyDressed thanks love!❤️
@@FoleyDressed thanks so much! Thats very cool to know. I started to watch Suzy Furrer's bodice lessons but then I got sidetracked. I do have her notes printed, so I think I will give her system a try when I get a chance!
Suzy Furrer has a printed book now. It’s on her website. I can’t recall the actually website but just Google Suzy Furrer pattern making book. I have her book and I love it. There’s a lot more steps to creating a bodice with her method but the fit is spot on.
Hellen method tends to work best on full bust women. In my experience
I have the books and cannot find where I can measure the amount of fabric needed for a project
I dont believe that these books have a section that specifies yardage. My reccomendation is laying the pattern out and measuring in yards to see how many you will need to make the garment! Also remember to add a little bit extra to account for seam/hem allowances as needed.
Are these measurements in inches?
hello sage can you make a video in a fuller size model on making a sloper pls 😁
I will definitely write that idea down for a future video! 😊
I need book
Plz seal pr
I dont like them are better system than this .
I always love to hear about new systems I haven't tried yet if you have any suggestions!