DIY Metal 3D Printer
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2021
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Heavy base plate to suck the heat out would be helpful. You could even do a water cooled fixture plate if you wanted.
Also, an aluminum plate with some heat sinks in the bottom and air blown over those would help cool as well without blowing out the shielding gas
@@thirstybike ehhh who needs shielding gas
With robotic MIG welding we typically program a pause at the end of a weld bead where weld settings change to less heat, more wire feed to fill the end crater that develops.
There should be a setting in the slicer to random start locations. It helps with visual seams and strength. That could help with sinking of the bead.
Man, such a simply but smart solution! I'll have to find me a slicer with that option
@@cranktowncity What slicer do you use?
@@bioshift1 I got the old-school creality one, 1.2.3
@@cranktowncity I believe that's cura. You should be able to set it in z seam under alignment. To random or otherwise.
Prusa slicer has a random seam option in the slicer.
I think industrial grade 3D printers that utilizes this kind of arc welding method always integrates with a CNC milling machine, so after building a few layers the material it can be milled to very high precision.
That half-sphere was really impressive for some garage project built on ender 3. I think you proved that hobby grade metal 3d printer is totally doable, hope we will see them on the market some day.
Ghetto engineering is the best kind of engineering 🤩
The Pokémon thing had me laughing my as off. I really thought my video randomly changed on me. That was really good! Best of luck on this brother!
That made my day 😭
I saw someone else try this... Integza?
Metal Matters is trying to do an actual powder laser based system. But these welder based systems are really interesting, as it should be quite simple.. its just a lot of dialing
Yea integza tried
From what ive seen people say that an argon filled environment helps a lot.
So maybe a case full of argon made of tinted glass/acrylic could be helpful
you can also just crank the esteps to up how much it extrudes per mm, for example if you double it, it will move the extruder double what it should be. or instead of using fan pins theres laser, and cnc support in marlin using different gcode, so you could wire the the trigger from the welder to those using a relay. Or something like that.
dude, awesome ideas, thank you. especially like the idea of a tinted enclosure, my eye sockets need a break!
@@cranktowncity Welding machines for doing TIG push a stream of Nitrogen or Argon directly onto the weld. These can be had for MIG as well which is what he is doing here. This is simply a case of getting a new welder with Gas line and a Cup for the tip which holds the gas around the end. This would save you the headaches of trying to make a full box of gas.
@@seditt5146 There seems to already be a an inert gas line feeding this torch, see at about @8:20 and it is the clear hose coming in from the side.
I guessed there was no gas coverage earlier in the video, with the crappy looking aluminium weld-beads, but that could also been from trying to use argon/co2 mix (which is for steel) instead of argon or argon/helium mix.
"who's that Pokemon?" "It's Ditto (Kill me)" you just made me shit my pants while laughing man
As a practical machine that was.... erm.... y'know.... erm..... well.... not so good.
But as a proof of concept.... a right hum dinger!
Keep up The Great Work.
The Pokémon reference was GOLD and about did me in XD
I love strightforward manners, congratulations
You are crazy - but people like you move things forward.
I busted up laughing when your pencil melted under temp load.
This will work to print large print that don’t require precisions 😊
pokemon will always be proud of you work
This was fantastic! I just thought to myself, "I wonder if anyone's hooked up a welder to a 3D printer?" So I do a search and bam! Here it is! Great job!
Yess can’t wait to print a metal benchy 👍👍👍
Woah! Those parts almost look like they were machined.
Great concept. My thoughts are stick with Mig, it's going to be much easier than Tig. Then work on being able to control your Amps and wire feed. Ramping the Amps down once it gets running should be possible as it's already carrying heat. Maybe to start with do it man to prove concept. I can see a cnc welder/plasma cutter in the making. Stick with it, it's gonna be excellent.
Your tenacity as you proceed through step-wise refinements is quite impressive. Adapt, innovate and overcome.
Finally I have found a gem of a RUclips channel
Rulof from Italy sent me here.
He made me see a MIG welder on a bedslinger, tracing what looked like the first layer of a 5x scaled benchy. I was impressed to say the least!
i love his attitude... "the skillset required is clearly beyond what i'm capable of... but fuck it"
Well, the example you based your idea off of was much larger. Maybe this is one of those things that has to be done in a larger scale?
The G code is set up for plastics to heat up and cool down in as short of time as possible but still maintain a certain rigidity. Steal would need more time to cool down so on a larger scale with the same settings this would make metals more manageable. Or option B would be to make your smaller prints in a much colder environment like in a refrigerator, a walk in freezer or Antarctica.
Next problem would be how to pull your build off of the build plate. With PLA or ABS it cools down and is easier to pull off an aluminum plate. With your set up you would have to cut off the piece. So for the thumb printing, you would need to cut it off or add bridges to raise it off of the platform...but still have to cut it off. But it may need less grinding work that way?
Love the maverick style of inventing your way through a challenge by using stuff already sitting around!
Would there be any advantages to having an X and Y base with a Z nozzle or would it still have the same outcome? Would curved surfaces like your sphere be better if the G code were to cool down the material once the welds were in closer proximity to prevent the molten metal mishaps?
Again, love the content! Thank you for your channel!
A lot of good ideas her, thanks man!
In the big example, they have developed software that calculates all the weird heating/cooling distortions that take place and adjusts the printing accordingly.
So its not the size scale that magically makes their tech work. There's much more to it.
love the professionalism in this video
What you need is part cooling. Let the fan blow on the part during printing then it won't sag as much. Great project!
The wire releases gas as it melts, which forms a bubble around the metal to keep the oxygen away from the weld (he said this in the video). If you try to use a fan, it would blow away the protective gas and weaken the weld.
@@RussellBeattie Then part cool with a similar enough gas to keep the welds strong. Get creative.
Great video man gotta post to mess with the analytics for ya, I hope your at or past 10k by Christmas, you may as well live out my dream getting paid to mess around with stuff!
Thanks man!
Maybe you should try "spot weld", then fan, then a new "spot weld", and so on.
The guys at Relativity would be proud 😉
Cool the bed
Great vid man, kept it interesting the whole way. Some people just sound like the teacher from bueller’s day out. 😴
I think the speed has to be higher, also there has to be a good fan to cool the soldering filament instantly there shouldn't be this red macula after it is soldered, while this red means that it will deform with the next layer , if it cools instantly it will not deform, the heat has to be only at the welding point it does not have to expand to nearby points, that is just my think and your idea is genius
I'm impressed, Very !
Have you tried doing a tack weld? I have done a progressive tack style that looked like a tig bead. kind of like a line of coins. clearly that continues bead is too hot. Set up a pulse cycle of, say one second where 2 tns. is weld and 8 tns. is cool down. Mess with it that way with different combos. You are way smarter than me, I can't even set up a regular printer, but I've welded the seam on a power-saw muffler, very thin, and it came out nice using Mig. Just a thought.
you have that itch...
great to see you just doing stuffs... love them
It’s a start. We’ll be able to print metal alloys soon… i hope 😊
You're like the bobby duke arts of fabricating. It's fascinating.
This is why I sub.
Seems like Tig would be the better process here. Maybe less build up but better puddle control.
Also, +1 for mentioning the oft ignored M-codes. As your past President would say, "...not a lot of people know about M-codes."
M-codes need love too man
@@cranktowncity
Also, M'kay Bro-codes, eh 🍁
Implementation of tig welder here would be much harder that MIG.
@@kundeleczek1 True. TIG is a manual process like soldering using a separatley hand fed rod of material. What I know not even a million dollar industrial robot can TIG weld because of the nature of the process being impossible for any machine to handle. The wire being fed in separatley from the side without touching the electrode that needs to in turn be around a max distance of 0.2 mm from the workpiece is something only a human can do. I TIG weld a lot myself at work at the moment. It a really fun but also really tricky thing to do and I'm very happy to master it good enough that the result in the end looks very profesional. Its a true skill to master TIG welding.
Please keep trying and don't give up. Maybe try a less powerful welding machine. I think the problem here is the high temperature with which your welding machine melts or works.
If you just timed hot fast the bead heats up the plate, you could just program the steppers to speed up the metal after a certain amount of seconds
use a TIG torch with the 3d printer stepper to do the dabbing. less aggressive and more control
you make a fantastic ditto
+1 for the Ryobi cordless drill!
I think that tig torch would be better way to go ,and then make a wire feeder for it like mig has.EWM has a auto wire feeder on some of their machines.Maybe thats the way to go.
It would use a country supply worth of argon.
Pretty cool. I wonder if you printed objects at the maximum size for the bed if that would let them cool more. The wall thickness would be a smaller fraction of the overall objects size and probably wouldn't retain as much heat.
That or that blower fan on the object. Instead of the board. It should help but it will blow away the shielding gas... Which could be fixed by fluxcore maybe
Reverse the path every layer? Would even out the heat concentration.
Have a daenger 👍. Why not welding with spots and a little pause when there will be some pressurised air blowing onto welding area?
Just curious what's going to be in the next video.
Very cool, I think the algorithm must have caught you because I got this video of a suggestion. I subscribed and I'm watching your other stuff.
This is insanely good. I'm looking forward to seeing improvements on this project. Great job, man!
Smaller wire means less heat. Ceramic or fire brick material bed clad with tungsten, with active cooling like what is used in steel mill furnaces. I would also enclose the print volume with shaded materialfor uniformity of heat, eye protection, and shield gas retention. That allows even more cooling below the bed. Swap the rubber wheels out for ceramic or perhaps high temperature silicone? Drive belts will be an issue due to heat as well. A flexible temperature resistant material, or consider rack and pinion or other linear gear setup to replace the drive belts. I would also recommend relocating the stepper motors further away from the print area. The heat will likely destroy them quickly. Just extend the linear gear portion to mesh with the gear mounted to the stepper motor further away from the heat source. I'd do the same thing for the limit switches. And absolutely if you can control wire feed via the stepper, I would. I bet the drive rolls from the welder could be adapted to fit the motor that normally feeds the extruder. Mine already has a spring loaded tensioner . The drive rolls for metal wire I imagine need considerably more force than plastic to accurately feed without slippage.
You might have the skill to retry this on a modded 4 axis with rotating printhead (theta is the fourth axe), that might solve the issue with complex models where the welder hits the prin- the melted bead.
And it would be the bedslinger version of a 200k bucks worth actual welding robot!
(those are 5 axis actually ok)
always weld over a small secion of the previous weld, so rotate 365 or maybe 370 degrees every pass.
if you going to do a metal 3d printer then set the machine up in a purge chamber.. assuming its steel that you trying to make the parts out of then fill it with argon. now this is the expensive part.. you need to get your self a double pulse mig set up or even better a fronius cmt welder.. welding with a flux core/innershield wont work as the porosity and slag layers will prevent the part from actually becoming whole in the grain of the material so any part will be next to useless in a serious application. your also need to use a water cooled set up as the torch will not hold for long on the duty cycle of a air torch.. not to mention your need a machine that will do the needed amount of amps for 100 percent duty cycle otherwise you going to torch your machine in the long run.. welders prefer to run at 60 percent duty cycle or higher.. the 20-30 percent are only there for the odd job. hope this helps you on your quest
First time viewing any of your videos so far, and yep 👍 I just Subscribed. Keep up the good work. You da man ✌️😎
end result, just killed)))
THIS IS THE MOST TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCED VIDEO I EVER SEE 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣😍😍😍😍
I think you can get some control of the feed rate without effecting the gantry movement with the filament thickness setting in the slicer.
And I just noticed there is a part 2, so you probably solved it already. Oh well, I needed a comment and ain't deleting it
How about current sensor loop to hook up to your arduino controller and run the welding wire through it, add a voltmeter between the welding wire and base plate. Power = Current * Voltage. Integrate (smooth) the power and use that for feed control. I have no idea how much current and power fluctuate during welding, but imagine both do a lot, so both are required.
Fill the cabinet with Argon? The Russian built Titanium Submarines inside Argon filled buildings.
😅 Man ✌🏻 i was looking in that topic for 2weeks now and thought about prozesses like using a plasma cutter, a laser or tig welding. I saw your 3d tig THING. Thats the best way to go for now. BUT - for most the parts we like to print, its like 3d printing!!! So we need MICRO TIG TORCHES like wp9p's, a TIG WELDER WITH ADJUSTABLE small AMPERrates & PULSE FUNCTION stuff, a BETTER WIREFEEDER like for Soldering and so on. I already 3d modeling Holders and stuff to use on a 3d printer, to visualize. LESS HEAT, THIN WALL THICKNESS is the way to go. It sucks heaving such ideas 🤦🏻👍🏻 SUBSCRIBED
Had me laughing the entire video 😂
Very good attempt man.
Impressive project! Im sure it can be perfected.
How the bloody hell did I miss this?! Didn't even get a goddamn notification!
Your Ender welds better than I can. 😳
Very very interesting.
Come down to prescott, we can totally get this working
This is an awesome idea, excited to see where it goes...
Awesome work man, hope to see you keep trying at this, would be awesome to see you pushing the diy metal printer industry :D, also try cura slicer, its free and it has SO MANY settings to play with, whether it be speeds, pauses, where you start each seam, etc. Good luck bro
Maybe put it in aquarium, something like hyperbaric or underwater welding will do the work.
Pretty dang good for a first attempt 😀
You coud use fans or some well engineered airflow so you wouldn't waste so much time with every cool down and thus printing faster.
nice job, i think that you need to have more precition in the flow and temperature
Better than my crappy welding skills
Reduce the wire feed, instead of MIG use CMT addition to that u can use liq cooled substrate
Gettin it man. Saw another one of your vids the other week that worked for me also. Thanks 👍🏾
It didn't work well but I like the aesthetic, anyway. Making things is all about experimentation and failure. It's great that you shared this video.
That’s awesome
What about a tig machine with wire feed?
you should turn down the amps on the welder. it doesn't need the extra heat if your trying to just layer beads
You are a genius and a madman! This was highly entertaining and also quite impressive
Dude amazing
Amazing.love it. looking for anycubic printer but i hope these will get cheaper as its way too much for me, dont even have the tools dont know abouw welding either
I just found your channel and I love it! It's great to see a fellow tinkerer, especially someone who's doing such cool things.
Nice haha I've seen other people attempt this, looks like you did better than most
this will get hell a lot views, and it deserves it. nice video thx for sharing
That’s fucking awesome !
Die Idee ansich ich cool aber dein ditto ist dir sehr gut gelungen 😀
maybe cold welding with argon closure environment box thing?
Sir you are amazing 👏
Now that was entertaining, great stuff man!
too cool man i wanna do that and then does it wtf I want this dexterity in my life
I think it might be easier to implement if you could modify a non cartesian style printer where the bed stays stationary like a delta or core-xy style printer. With those it'll be much easier to design cooling and maybe even an enclosure as well since the footprint of the printer stays the same. And also a printer with linear rails instead of v-rollers for axis travel will be a lot more durable since there wont be any plastic/rubber wheels to melt. If you do go this route maybe check out the Flsun SR I've seen the prices drop to high 300s at times and its got all the things i mentioned.
Also building a feed system for a delta or core-xy would be a lot easier since most of them just have a feed system where the filament has a straight travel path directly from the top of the machine to the hotend
Problem is he’d be disassembling a over 1000 printer all to take it apart to pieces and severely modify it, That’s not a cheap job and doubt this guy wants to spend that on building this. Tho you make a decent point.
Well that was highly entertaining and educational. You got another subscriber
i was gonna do this but you beat me to it by a few years! 😭 i might try one that stick welds solder or something idk its gonna go terribly 👍
as much of a failure this was, I love seeing people just jumping in and hacking things to see if they can do something.
If you set the z seam to random in your slicer it will put the beginning and end in a different place each time which will mitigate the issue you're having
Keep improving to where people can print car and gun parts!