Be very careful with the carriage blocks, or you might end up with little ball bearings everywhere. Don't ask me how I know :) I had the exact same issue with the y-axis belt clip hitting the rear bracket. I took the whole thing apart and reassembled it trying to figure out what was bumping. I did not have an issue with the front hitting underneath, but the plate did hit the button screws that were in the front, supposedly holding in the rods. It definitely bumps in the back, but if you look where the hot bed goes, it bumps at a point where unless you are printing something all the way to the very edge, it won't make an impact. The washers are a great idea though. Could you please tell us what washers you used? Thanks so much!
Pinned. Itchy hands took the X-rail carriage out to "see how it works" and "lube the underside". Ended up with missing balls and had to buy a replacement... Don't quite remember the washer size though. Just a pack purchased from a local hardware store, I believe it's M5 or M6 X 10 mm.
@@reddotgeek I took a slightly different approach with the washers. After watching the printer go through the auto leveling steps, I saw that the belt clip bumped during that process, so fixing it was a necessity. I bought some m3 washers and decided to put them on top of the carriage blocks to shim the metal parts that fasten to the carriage block, figuring that way I was not going to have to hassle with the washers ever again. If you put them under the metal plate, you will need to deal with them any time you change the y-axis belt. It took two washers stacked on top of each other to get it to the point where I was sure it was not hitting. My test was to put the screws back in the front that held the rods down. It now just clears those. Sorry for the long response, but I figure we are all in this together and sharing our learnings helps us all.
Finally completed the upgrade after having had the kit for over a month. Thanks once again for the excellent instructions and complications to avoid. No instructions were supplied with the kit, and all the screws were unlabelled and different colours to what you apparently got.
I like how you use circles instead of arrows because sometimes in some tutorials they use arrows for like, pointing at screws and instead of pointing at the screw that’s important it’s pointing at a different screw and then you end up getting all confused.
Did you have any problems with the mounting plates giving you a difference in height? The rear plate sits on the two raised parts of the base moulding whereas the front mounting plate sits between the raised parts so there is a difference of 3 - 4mm and you would have to bend the rails to fit A problem with the kit i have i would imagine but the packaging looks identical to the one you fitted 🤔
Have contacted the seller to see what solution they come up with! If not satisfactory they can have the kit back 😂 and go another route that I have seen on RUclips 👍🏼
i have a decent bed mesh and bed level and I still can't get a good 1st layer full plate print. even if I adjust mw z offset i have some sides that are to high while other side is to low and will scrape. don't know what to do anymore
Great video! I still have yet to upgrade the y-axis to linear rails on my SE. Have you considered upgrading with the Nebula pad? I upgraded my hotend to k1 max, x-axis to linear rail, and part cooling fan, but I noticed the print quality improve heavily with the smart kit compared to the stock firmware. I think the input shaping added some of the best quality improvements I could've hoped for with the higher speeds, really lets you take full advantage of a beefed up motion system. I still expect to upgrade the y-axis eventually but if you're looking for value it's a great option to consider.
@@petrodrobov yes I upgraded to the nebula pad too, the changes are pretty much what you would expect by the factory specs of the KE vs SE, and now I just use the KE printing configurations in my slicer. So roughly 500mm/s tops, 300 mm/s avg
Ordered a Nebula Pad, should arrive in a couple of weeks. I printed the Z-axis upgrades at 300mm/s with stock Marlin, and it's not even breaking a sweat. With a fully upgraded XYZ, it should be able to print at well over 500mm/s... I am left with a hot end that may not catch up, along with a dying fan.
Sir, the way you attached your rails. It was moved sideways outwards. Is it possible to use longer rails and bigger build plate? Then configure on software to increase build volume? Thank you for your response. Hope you notice
Technically yes, but it's too much trouble and cost. You will have to switch out for a larger base plate and move the Z-axis gantry to make space... Also - A larger heat pad, tension sensor correction, Y-axis limit switch correction, etc...
Sounds like you have also gotten a kit with bad clearance/alignment. See the video, at 1:28 that screw circled in green is supposed to touch the Y-axis limit switch when the bed is moved all the way back. If I remember correctly, someone added a nut to the screw so the limit switch will trigger properly... If you still need help, there's an Ender 3 SE group on Reddit - www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
you cant see a difference because your printer already had linear rails. the big difference comes when your switching from pom wheels to rails. You should of greased the carnages before install as well
Very cool, Bateman. But it's nothing. Now install lightbar, gantry reinforcements, Nebula pad, camera and bed-leveling screws. Anyway, thanks for the video! Very helpful!
Probably not worth disassembling the rails, but for your next linear rail upgrade remember to clean them with IPA (to remove the factory coating), and then grease them with something like SuperLube or similar. If you don't you will end up with rails rusting or binding eventually
Switch out the noisy 2510 hot end fan, that is the real culprit. Put the printer on something that does not vibrate much... I have seen people use a concrete slab, or thick rubber insulation mat.
Здравствуйте. У меня проблема по оси z. Если справа, где нет мотора, шатать слегка крепление вала, присутствует небольшой люфт. Вы не знаете, как эту проблему можно решить? Спасибо)
Yes, the original rods work just fine. After having this for a few months - I will say that an upgraded nozzle is a better choice for "faster printing".
Ставил я на обе оси такой набор направляющих.... Ерунда полная, стол цепляет корпус принтера, при затяжке винтов передвигается очень тяжело со скрежетом
lol, 1 question: - WHAT FOR ? I see your left cube printed with overheating. Its bad not of the Bed. That printer got many issues, but bed mechanics is not one of it. ~~~~pls, dont blow ppl mind
YES! THE FIRST HATE COMMENT ON THIS CHANNEL. THIS BLOWS MY MIND AND IS WORTH CELEBRATING. 🎉 P.S. I love good and constructive hate. This is not a "clever upgrade" for certain rich experts who can afford to buy the best printers without batting an eyelid... Even diss on other for being "fools". For certain broke makers, there's value in terms of performance, education, and experience. Narrow minds are for losers, aye?
I totally agree, doing mods and upgrades for the sake of it is fun!! That being said, a better test print to show a comparison between old and new would be something that requires accuracy at the extremities of the bed, as this is where the bed was most likely to shift around on the stock linear rod system.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! I thought I was going crazy. Even though I could "feel" a slight bump when moving the bed, I couldn't find the source to save my life. It was the belt clip as you pointed out. The washers are a great idea!
Don't wanna be that guy but why not go all the way and put klipper on your printer ? I know the upgrade will probably be more expensive and time consuming than the current upgrades made but i feel (prehaps incorrectly) that klipper should be able to make more use of the linear rails since the software allows you to run at a faster speed and all , plus it pretty much future proofs your 3d printer which apart from being a bed slinger type would have all of the bells and whistles of even the most top end 3d printers on the commercial market right now (except printing colour obviously) from my rough calculations : ender 3 v3 SE (£149) + x axis upgrade ( £21.50)+ y-axis upgrade(£36.98)+klipper upgrade(£38.71) - (using a raspberry pi 3B) = total of (£246.19) *note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024) ender 3 v3 KE : £249 *note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024) best value proposition (imo) : ender 3 v3 SE (£149)+klipper upgrade(£38.71) - (using a raspberry pi 3B) = (£187.71)*note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024) from my looking around it seems that your initial gripe on the video with the x-axis when you you said that you regret not buying the KE is correct , assuming you time it correctly you can get a ender 3 v3 KE for under £200 but i would argue the thing that makes the KE more capable than the SE is the fact it has klipper not the linear rails, imo i think if you have an SE the most meaningful upgrade you can do is getting klipper running on it.
Maybe in the future. A pi is too much work and cost... Maybe I will go lazy with a Sonic Pad instead. But first, I kind of want to switch out a certain noisy a** fan.
Running Klipper is certainly nice, but the linear rail upgrade is more to do with minimising the little bit of play we get in the bed with the stock guide rods. You'd see a slight print quality increase regardless if you were running Klipper or not.
I should mention that the stock linear rod system AND the upgrade would both be able to handle higher speeds and accelerations without worry, both systems are HIGHLY preferable to V-Slot wheels
...and this is for a SE. I have a KE which is supposed to be auto calibration/leveling and Z offset. Do you know it's been 9 months, 3 tickets filed with Creality, a complete hotbed replacement (Creality sent me the parts under warranty), countless calibration tests, countless adjustments to hardware and I still can't get a level first layer. I'm thinking after 9 months it's about time to get an A1 mini.
Be very careful with the carriage blocks, or you might end up with little ball bearings everywhere. Don't ask me how I know :) I had the exact same issue with the y-axis belt clip hitting the rear bracket. I took the whole thing apart and reassembled it trying to figure out what was bumping. I did not have an issue with the front hitting underneath, but the plate did hit the button screws that were in the front, supposedly holding in the rods. It definitely bumps in the back, but if you look where the hot bed goes, it bumps at a point where unless you are printing something all the way to the very edge, it won't make an impact. The washers are a great idea though. Could you please tell us what washers you used? Thanks so much!
Pinned. Itchy hands took the X-rail carriage out to "see how it works" and "lube the underside". Ended up with missing balls and had to buy a replacement... Don't quite remember the washer size though. Just a pack purchased from a local hardware store, I believe it's M5 or M6 X 10 mm.
@@reddotgeek I took a slightly different approach with the washers. After watching the printer go through the auto leveling steps, I saw that the belt clip bumped during that process, so fixing it was a necessity. I bought some m3 washers and decided to put them on top of the carriage blocks to shim the metal parts that fasten to the carriage block, figuring that way I was not going to have to hassle with the washers ever again. If you put them under the metal plate, you will need to deal with them any time you change the y-axis belt. It took two washers stacked on top of each other to get it to the point where I was sure it was not hitting. My test was to put the screws back in the front that held the rods down. It now just clears those. Sorry for the long response, but I figure we are all in this together and sharing our learnings helps us all.
Finally completed the upgrade after having had the kit for over a month. Thanks once again for the excellent instructions and complications to avoid. No instructions were supplied with the kit, and all the screws were unlabelled and different colours to what you apparently got.
I like how you use circles instead of arrows because sometimes in some tutorials they use arrows for like, pointing at screws and instead of pointing at the screw that’s important it’s pointing at a different screw and then you end up getting all confused.
I agree, stinky0368
Did you have any problems with the mounting plates giving you a difference in height?
The rear plate sits on the two raised parts of the base moulding whereas the front mounting plate sits between the raised parts so there is a difference of 3 - 4mm and you would have to bend the rails to fit
A problem with the kit i have i would imagine but the packaging looks identical to the one you fitted 🤔
As in the video - I only had a small clearance issue. Guess you will have to pad the plates with washers to level the rails.
Have contacted the seller to see what solution they come up with!
If not satisfactory they can have the kit back 😂 and go another route that I have seen on RUclips 👍🏼
Can I get a repeat link to the 3D printer guides?
i have a decent bed mesh and bed level and I still can't get a good 1st layer full plate print. even if I adjust mw z offset i have some sides that are to high while other side is to low and will scrape. don't know what to do anymore
Great video! I still have yet to upgrade the y-axis to linear rails on my SE. Have you considered upgrading with the Nebula pad? I upgraded my hotend to k1 max, x-axis to linear rail, and part cooling fan, but I noticed the print quality improve heavily with the smart kit compared to the stock firmware. I think the input shaping added some of the best quality improvements I could've hoped for with the higher speeds, really lets you take full advantage of a beefed up motion system. I still expect to upgrade the y-axis eventually but if you're looking for value it's a great option to consider.
Cool, how fast is it now In comparison with stock version? I'm I right you have also updated to Nebula pad?
@@petrodrobov yes I upgraded to the nebula pad too, the changes are pretty much what you would expect by the factory specs of the KE vs SE, and now I just use the KE printing configurations in my slicer. So roughly 500mm/s tops, 300 mm/s avg
Ordered a Nebula Pad, should arrive in a couple of weeks. I printed the Z-axis upgrades at 300mm/s with stock Marlin, and it's not even breaking a sweat. With a fully upgraded XYZ, it should be able to print at well over 500mm/s... I am left with a hot end that may not catch up, along with a dying fan.
I try to upgrade mine but the bed don’t touch the bed stop switch any tip thanks
Saw some people add a wing nut to fix that...
How where help me please
Sir, the way you attached your rails. It was moved sideways outwards. Is it possible to use longer rails and bigger build plate? Then configure on software to increase build volume? Thank you for your response. Hope you notice
Technically yes, but it's too much trouble and cost. You will have to switch out for a larger base plate and move the Z-axis gantry to make space... Also - A larger heat pad, tension sensor correction, Y-axis limit switch correction, etc...
I did the upgrade and now it homes to the rear of the hot plate and bummps the back a couple of times and wont auto level. Someone have any ideas😮😮
Sounds like you have also gotten a kit with bad clearance/alignment. See the video, at 1:28 that screw circled in green is supposed to touch the Y-axis limit switch when the bed is moved all the way back. If I remember correctly, someone added a nut to the screw so the limit switch will trigger properly... If you still need help, there's an Ender 3 SE group on Reddit - www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
@reddotgeek thank you appreciate the help and really enjoyed your videos
you cant see a difference because your printer already had linear rails. the big difference comes when your switching from pom wheels to rails. You should of greased the carnages before install as well
Do we have a stl file for a shorter belt holder? In order not to scratch the linear rail Insert?
Very cool, Bateman. But it's nothing. Now install lightbar, gantry reinforcements, Nebula pad, camera and bed-leveling screws.
Anyway, thanks for the video! Very helpful!
Probably not worth disassembling the rails, but for your next linear rail upgrade remember to clean them with IPA (to remove the factory coating), and then grease them with something like SuperLube or similar. If you don't you will end up with rails rusting or binding eventually
Are these rails quieter? I'm not interested in printing super fast, but very interested in silencing my V3
Switch out the noisy 2510 hot end fan, that is the real culprit. Put the printer on something that does not vibrate much... I have seen people use a concrete slab, or thick rubber insulation mat.
Здравствуйте. У меня проблема по оси z. Если справа, где нет мотора, шатать слегка крепление вала, присутствует небольшой люфт. Вы не знаете, как эту проблему можно решить? Спасибо)
Thanks a lot.
I wanted to upgrade the printer, but now I see that it makes no sense.
It is clear that Creality knows what they are doing.
Yes, the original rods work just fine. After having this for a few months - I will say that an upgraded nozzle is a better choice for "faster printing".
What size/length linear rail should I get for my Ender 3 V3 SE for the y axis?
300mm
Ставил я на обе оси такой набор направляющих.... Ерунда полная, стол цепляет корпус принтера, при затяжке винтов передвигается очень тяжело со скрежетом
Yep. It's like a lucky draw if you manage to get a kit that fits perfectly without clearance issues...
Can you make an upgrade for the kingroon kp3s pro v2 extruder head?
lol, 1 question:
- WHAT FOR ?
I see your left cube printed with overheating. Its bad not of the Bed.
That printer got many issues, but bed mechanics is not one of it.
~~~~pls, dont blow ppl mind
YES! THE FIRST HATE COMMENT ON THIS CHANNEL. THIS BLOWS MY MIND AND IS WORTH CELEBRATING. 🎉
P.S. I love good and constructive hate. This is not a "clever upgrade" for certain rich experts who can afford to buy the best printers without batting an eyelid... Even diss on other for being "fools". For certain broke makers, there's value in terms of performance, education, and experience. Narrow minds are for losers, aye?
I totally agree, doing mods and upgrades for the sake of it is fun!!
That being said, a better test print to show a comparison between old and new would be something that requires accuracy at the extremities of the bed, as this is where the bed was most likely to shift around on the stock linear rod system.
I don't notice any change, I'll leave my rods. The shims thas is better idea and I got a very flat bed.
What its improving?
More stability, quieter, and printing up to 500mm/s without warping.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! I thought I was going crazy. Even though I could "feel" a slight bump when moving the bed, I couldn't find the source to save my life. It was the belt clip as you pointed out. The washers are a great idea!
You're so welcome!
@@reddotgeek
What size washers did you use?
@@DustinTheWindGaming I know I'm late, but I ended up printing some shims to go on top of the carriages.
Will this work for the ke
I don't have a KE. But both KE and SE uses the same Y-axis 8mm rods, so this should work. Technically. Tentatively.
Don't wanna be that guy but why not go all the way and put klipper on your printer ? I know the upgrade will probably be more expensive and time consuming than the current upgrades made but i feel (prehaps incorrectly) that klipper should be able to make more use of the linear rails since the software allows you to run at a faster speed and all , plus it pretty much future proofs your 3d printer which apart from being a bed slinger type would have all of the bells and whistles of even the most top end 3d printers on the commercial market right now (except printing colour obviously)
from my rough calculations : ender 3 v3 SE (£149) + x axis upgrade ( £21.50)+ y-axis upgrade(£36.98)+klipper upgrade(£38.71) - (using a raspberry pi 3B) = total of (£246.19) *note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024)
ender 3 v3 KE : £249 *note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024)
best value proposition (imo) : ender 3 v3 SE (£149)+klipper upgrade(£38.71) - (using a raspberry pi 3B) = (£187.71)*note using current lowest prices i can find at this current time (21/06/2024)
from my looking around it seems that your initial gripe on the video with the x-axis when you you said that you regret not buying the KE is correct , assuming you time it correctly you can get a ender 3 v3 KE for under £200 but i would argue the thing that makes the KE more capable than the SE is the fact it has klipper not the linear rails, imo i think if you have an SE the most meaningful upgrade you can do is getting klipper running on it.
Maybe in the future. A pi is too much work and cost... Maybe I will go lazy with a Sonic Pad instead. But first, I kind of want to switch out a certain noisy a** fan.
@@reddotgeekyou can also install klipper on an old laptop or PC.
Running Klipper is certainly nice, but the linear rail upgrade is more to do with minimising the little bit of play we get in the bed with the stock guide rods. You'd see a slight print quality increase regardless if you were running Klipper or not.
I should mention that the stock linear rod system AND the upgrade would both be able to handle higher speeds and accelerations without worry, both systems are HIGHLY preferable to V-Slot wheels
Never good working, there is no flat surface on the printer
The tip and the music are great!
does this upgrade also work on the KE?
I have no reason to believe it wouldn't! They're the same machine from the bed down, really.
Actually, replacing Y-axis rails gives you less noise while printing, which greatly improves overall printing experience :)
That’s all it does? No accuracy improvements or anything? Just sound?
@Stinky0368 I don't think that at such scale, the difference between rails and rods would be observable.
These kits are a pita. The bed plates are too large and can't reach the back to hit the trigger...
I had to buy a little acorn nut so the screw could hit the trigger
Meeh, I think that this improvement is not necesary. I prefer the rail x. Good video
...and this is for a SE. I have a KE which is supposed to be auto calibration/leveling and Z offset. Do you know it's been 9 months, 3 tickets filed with Creality, a complete hotbed replacement (Creality sent me the parts under warranty), countless calibration tests, countless adjustments to hardware and I still can't get a level first layer. I'm thinking after 9 months it's about time to get an A1 mini.
Does it work on KE too?
Technically yes. Both SE and KE have the same 8mm rods.
Great video! Exactly what I needed! I instead printed the parts that this kit is based off and hopefully the clearance will be better
Good luck!
more "epic"!
Terrible example prints at the end, can't tell anything with clear petg