just bought a 1965 evinrude 9.5hp sportwin and the guy i bought it off of has it working perfectly! this video was def helpful to a guy who is new with his motor and wants to know a bit about it thanks!! :D nothing like them old motors i tell yah!
Glad it was helpful. Old motors are always fun. For the most part pretty simple, but so there's so much to learn about them (disclaimer that I am no expert on old motors, I just like working on them and learning as I go). I hope you have fun with yours!
Big thank you from across the pond! Manchester Uk.... Your videos are a real big help.... Very kind of you to share them. I'm restoring a Evinrude 1971 Sportwin 9.5hp. without your video's I'd be up the creek without a paddle......
Great job! I inherited one of these motors years ago. Never have been able to get it to run smooth. With you great attention to detail I am going to give that ol rude life again.
Thank you for your efforts on this video. You are correct about the manual not being very exact about how to set the sync on the carb/ignition. I have a looked at a couple of manuals, and they are all a little murky. As far as that "mark" on the throttle control cam that you use to set the sync, it really is there, and I believe you can see it at @ 9:20 in your video. It is hard to see because the mark is on the flat part (top) of the cam, and when the cam is screwed on to the magneto plate, the mark is mostly under the plate and not very visible. I took the cam off a Johnson 9.5 HP (same motor as the Evinrude Sportwin) in order to change the spark plug wires, and you can see the mark much better then. I put a dab of paint on the mark, as well as on the magneto plate right above where the mark is on the cam. Another thing to note is that, if the idle speed is set up fairly high, the follower on the carb will not match up to the mark because the magneto will not turn back far enough to slow the motor down to where the cam has turned far enough clockwise so the mark is on the follower. I assume one will then need to turn the idle speed down, or maybe disconnect the linkage between the magneto plate and tiller handle so the magneto plate can turn fully clockwise.
Today, I just fixed my rough idle and sneezing/coughing at low rpm. I have the points gapped properly and carb cleaned (many times). Nothing worked, until the timing is perfectly synchronized. Little details like this is very important. It took me awhile and a lot of frustration to figure out. Good video and wish I'd saw this sooner.
Haha me too. This hobby can be addictive sometimes, especially when we find a motor we liked and get it working properly. Keep up the great videos after work 😁 cheers!
loved your explanation! i have a '67 that i didn't realize the timing was included in the throttle. I think i need to reset my points so i was looking at this.
That 0.020 is just a starting point. If you look closely there is timing marks on the flywheel for both the top and bottom cylinder each. There is two small timing marks on the magneto plate next to each other where the marks on the flywheel line up between. You use an ohm meter on the points and just as the points crack open and loose continuity, the mark on the flywheel for that cylinder should be in the middle of the timing mark on the magneto plate. That is the precise way to do it and how the factory does it. They make a jig for setting it without the flywheel but you can just use the flywheel if you don't have the jig. You can crank that motor by just spinning the flywheel with you hands if set right and no carb issues. Do a RUclips search to see how it's done.
So my buddy gots one of these I been helping him trying to get it started so we replace the transformers but we are having trouble finding new spark plug wires so was wondering if you had any to Recommend?
I don't , but I'm sure someone else may. When it comes to things like that, I try to find a consensus of what other people have said on the internet, and go with a best guess. I've still definitely gotten the wrong parts in the past.
There are a number of retailers online that sell this prop (which is surprisingly expensive for a small aluminum prop). Michigan Wheel makes one and as does Solas (AMITA3). These propellers can be found through various websites. Just make sure you get one with the pin drive.
The After Work Garage thank you so much for the advice. 😀I have to look at the web if I could find any of these - not possible to get from any shops were I live in Finland.
@@olai1967 I'm sorry to hear that! You may be able to get a used one on sites like ebay and others, but as always be careful that you're getting what you think you're getting! Good luck!
I didn't know anything about that mark on the carb follower cam, mine seems to be dead on. Did you mention that you need to loosen, then just snug the inside screw on the points? Makes adjusting easier, then when set you tighten it down.
After setting the points with a feeler gauge connect the timing light and use the hashmarks on the mag plate and the one on the fly wheel and start the motor and the light will shine and show you if your timing is correct with a mark on the fly wheel is between the two hashmarks you need to set both sets of points so the line on the fly wheel is between the hashmarks
I actually haven't looked at this flywheel in detail, but according to literature on this motor, there really isn't a way to adjust the spark timing. The only 'timing' adjustment listed is to coordinate fuel with the predetermined spark advance (I believe it is a non-adjustable link between the throttle and the plate advance arm thing). I'm by no way an expert on this motor however, so it may very well be possible to do this with this motor.
I retired from authorized Johnson outboard dealership I was the head mechanic I work on Johnson motors every day I trained at the factory one week almost every year I do know what I’m talking about when it comes to Johnson and Evenrood outboard I did it by the book
If it dies at idle, don't adjust the idle speed, adjust the other screw, with the long 8 inch spring coming out of it (on that particular motor). It might be a mixture screw, or it might be an air bleed screw. They look the same. Start out with it at 1.5 turns out, from bottomed out. If it works pretty good, then it's a mixture adjust screw. Adjust further from there, with it running. But If it still dies and the spark plugs come out wet, like it's being flooded, then it's probably an air bleed screw. Turn it 4 or 5 turns out from bottom, and see how it idles. To reduce the gas with a mixture screw, you turn it IN. BUT to reduce the gas with an air bleed screw, you turn it OUT. That is the key difference. 😉
Hey can you show the info page in that book for 1967 20hp Johnson, or at least tell me if the moor is a #7 too? I gottta set timing on mine, thanks. It was running before, but found no spark on bottom cylinder, found the point spring was out of position and the clip was missing. Re installed correctly and stole a clip off a parts motor. Now she don’t wanna stay running at all. Edit: my gaps look like they could be measured by a tape measure instead of a feeler gauge, look like 1/8inch at least. Imma go get a set of feelers..
Little dab of grease wouldn't hurt. 1 pin head each. Idle problems can be caused by cold engine. Defective thermostat not letting engine get to temperature.
Sorry for the delayed response. Hard to say on parts, I generally just do a google search for the part numbers, and try to find something that looks the same as the part I'm replacing. Obviously the more reputable the vendor the better, but I've totally bought parts on ebay that have worked fine.
Hard to say in particular, but my advice is to start checking the basics - Spark, Fuel, Compression. Sounds like you have spark, but make sure the timing is set within reason. The big one I would do is clean the carburetor really well to make sure you are getting sufficient fuel flow. Also check your fuel pump (you can check this to some extent by starting the engine and pumping the bulb on the hose manually and see if it keeps the engine running). Compression is worth looking at, but if you're getting it started for a bit, it sounds like compression is good enough to get it running a little. Good luck, and if you find the problem, do let us know!
With these motors, instead of a solid stream of water coming out of a telltale that you're probably used to, they have water/exhaust telltale port that spits out water in a broken spray like that. Water coming out of that port is a visual indicator that water is being pumped through the cooling system.
This helps a lot! If my points are less than .020, would there be a weak spark?? My ‘63 sportwin barely runs. I rebuilt the carb, check and has good compression, it has spark in both cylinders but I think they’re pretty weak
I too like your work with outboards. I’m curious about your background? You seem to have a very diverse background. Are you an engineer? I like the way you analyze problems.
Hi Ken! I'm actually an Immunologist who just likes to tinker with things. If I liked math better, I would have considered engineering, but I'm not sure if making it a job would take the fun out of it for me. What got you into working with outboards, and what's your background?
@@TheAfterWorkGarage Originally about 50 years ago I was an indentured journeyman tool and die maker specialized in plastic injection molds. Worked at that for about 10 years then I got in industrial sales of punch presses and coil handling equipment. Then I got a job at a foundry that manufactured continuous cast gray and ductile iron bar stock mostly to the hydraulics industry. Then I got a job at a large iron foundry in Brazil. Then I got a job for a Rep group selling permanent mold castings mostly to the automotive industry sourcing from China.
The fact that I saw hours upon hours of video on this mater And the wild fact that you make sense and none of the other vids do I think that you being asian has a lot to do with it
just bought a 1965 evinrude 9.5hp sportwin and the guy i bought it off of has it working perfectly! this video was def helpful to a guy who is new with his motor and wants to know a bit about it thanks!! :D nothing like them old motors i tell yah!
Glad it was helpful. Old motors are always fun. For the most part pretty simple, but so there's so much to learn about them (disclaimer that I am no expert on old motors, I just like working on them and learning as I go). I hope you have fun with yours!
Appreciate you putting these videos out in the wild! Helped a lot.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
Big thank you from across the pond! Manchester Uk.... Your videos are a real big help.... Very kind of you to share them. I'm restoring a Evinrude 1971 Sportwin 9.5hp. without your video's I'd be up the creek without a paddle......
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad it was helpful!
Great job! I inherited one of these motors years ago. Never have been able to get it to run smooth. With you great attention to detail I am going to give that ol rude life again.
That's exciting, I hope you get it running well without too much trouble. They are really great old motors.
I liked the way you approached fixing this outboard and the way you explained as you went along ...good job !
Thanks!
Thank you for your efforts on this video. You are correct about the manual not being very exact about how to set the sync on the carb/ignition. I have a looked at a couple of manuals, and they are all a little murky. As far as that "mark" on the throttle control cam that you use to set the sync, it really is there, and I believe you can see it at @ 9:20 in your video. It is hard to see because the mark is on the flat part (top) of the cam, and when the cam is screwed on to the magneto plate, the mark is mostly under the plate and not very visible. I took the cam off a Johnson 9.5 HP (same motor as the Evinrude Sportwin) in order to change the spark plug wires, and you can see the mark much better then. I put a dab of paint on the mark, as well as on the magneto plate right above where the mark is on the cam.
Another thing to note is that, if the idle speed is set up fairly high, the follower on the carb will not match up to the mark because the magneto will not turn back far enough to slow the motor down to where the cam has turned far enough clockwise so the mark is on the follower. I assume one will then need to turn the idle speed down, or maybe disconnect the linkage between the magneto plate and tiller handle so the magneto plate can turn fully clockwise.
Today, I just fixed my rough idle and sneezing/coughing at low rpm. I have the points gapped properly and carb cleaned (many times). Nothing worked, until the timing is perfectly synchronized. Little details like this is very important. It took me awhile and a lot of frustration to figure out. Good video and wish I'd saw this sooner.
Thank you for the kind remarks, and thank you for sharing your advice as well. I always like learning and hearing from people who know better than me.
Haha me too. This hobby can be addictive sometimes, especially when we find a motor we liked and get it working properly. Keep up the great videos after work 😁 cheers!
loved your explanation! i have a '67 that i didn't realize the timing was included in the throttle. I think i need to reset my points so i was looking at this.
Awesome, I'm glad it was helpful. Yeah it's definitely different than most normal 'timing' setups.
thanks, very helpful, my outboard is the same just a 71 model. These engines run forever.
Glad I found your channel Im working on a Evenrude 9.5 as well This helped alot Thanks for posting
Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful. This motor has been great for me so far, I hope yours does you well too.
Thanks man you're a life saver , I think the mosquitoes lifted me off the ground
That 0.020 is just a starting point. If you look closely there is timing marks on the flywheel for both the top and bottom cylinder each. There is two small timing marks on the magneto plate next to each other where the marks on the flywheel line up between. You use an ohm meter on the points and just as the points crack open and loose continuity, the mark on the flywheel for that cylinder should be in the middle of the timing mark on the magneto plate. That is the precise way to do it and how the factory does it. They make a jig for setting it without the flywheel but you can just use the flywheel if you don't have the jig. You can crank that motor by just spinning the flywheel with you hands if set right and no carb issues. Do a RUclips search to see how it's done.
Highly recommend going this route. This is the BEST way to get the timing bang on for nice smooth running.
Thanks for this video man, I was close to going nuts from searching for that mark on the cam. The indentation is hardly visible at all on mine :)
I'm glad you found it, and that this was helpful! Thanks for the comment!
Just found the marks on my 1967 5 hp. I will see if it helps my poor idle in the coming weekend.
I hope it works it out for you. A carb cleaning can also help this out if you haven't done one in a while.
Good stuff, thanks bro.
thanks for the video helps me do it myself
I'm glad it was helpful!
curious about the air mix how many turns in and out
I have a 67 9.5 Sportwin. Where did you get the service manual?
Is the a sequence when connecting the wires to the points
So my buddy gots one of these I been helping him trying to get it started so we replace the transformers but we are having trouble finding new spark plug wires so was wondering if you had any to Recommend?
I don't , but I'm sure someone else may. When it comes to things like that, I try to find a consensus of what other people have said on the internet, and go with a best guess. I've still definitely gotten the wrong parts in the past.
which coil goes to the top cylinder and which goes to the bottom?
The coil on the back of magneto
Perfect information. ☺
Hi! Do you know from were to get a new propeller for it ? I have the same motor and it’s still going strong otherwise but my propeller broke totally.
There are a number of retailers online that sell this prop (which is surprisingly expensive for a small aluminum prop). Michigan Wheel makes one and as does Solas (AMITA3). These propellers can be found through various websites. Just make sure you get one with the pin drive.
The After Work Garage thank you so much for the advice. 😀I have to look at the web if I could find any of these - not possible to get from any shops were I live in Finland.
@@olai1967 I'm sorry to hear that! You may be able to get a used one on sites like ebay and others, but as always be careful that you're getting what you think you're getting! Good luck!
@@olai1967 try crowleymarine.com, they send all over the world, at least send to Mexico, 129.95 usd, Finland is on the list, hope it helps.
Where can i order that book at
I didn't know anything about that mark on the carb follower cam, mine seems to be dead on. Did you mention that you need to loosen, then just snug the inside screw on the points? Makes adjusting easier, then when set you tighten it down.
This is good advice! Thanks!
After setting the points with a feeler gauge connect the timing light and use the hashmarks on the mag plate and the one on the fly wheel and start the motor and the light will shine and show you if your timing is correct with a mark on the fly wheel is between the two hashmarks you need to set both sets of points so the line on the fly wheel is between the hashmarks
I actually haven't looked at this flywheel in detail, but according to literature on this motor, there really isn't a way to adjust the spark timing. The only 'timing' adjustment listed is to coordinate fuel with the predetermined spark advance (I believe it is a non-adjustable link between the throttle and the plate advance arm thing). I'm by no way an expert on this motor however, so it may very well be possible to do this with this motor.
I retired from authorized Johnson outboard dealership I was the head mechanic I work on Johnson motors every day I trained at the factory one week almost every year I do know what I’m talking about when it comes to Johnson and Evenrood outboard I did it by the book
@@randymiller1604 That's awesome. You don't get any more insider knowledge than that. Thanks for the insight!
You need fewer commas in your sentences.
At least I know how to fix a motor too bad you don’t do it the right way
If it dies at idle, don't adjust the idle speed, adjust the other screw, with the long 8 inch spring coming out of it (on that particular motor). It might be a mixture screw, or it might be an air bleed screw. They look the same. Start out with it at 1.5 turns out, from bottomed out. If it works pretty good, then it's a mixture adjust screw. Adjust further from there, with it running. But If it still dies and the spark plugs come out wet, like it's being flooded, then it's probably an air bleed screw. Turn it 4 or 5 turns out from bottom, and see how it idles. To reduce the gas with a mixture screw, you turn it IN. BUT to reduce the gas with an air bleed screw, you turn it OUT. That is the key difference. 😉
Thanks for the info! I
Hey can you show the info page in that book for 1967 20hp Johnson, or at least tell me if the moor is a #7 too? I gottta set timing on mine, thanks. It was running before, but found no spark on bottom cylinder, found the point spring was out of position and the clip was missing. Re installed correctly and stole a clip off a parts motor. Now she don’t wanna stay running at all.
Edit: my gaps look like they could be measured by a tape measure instead of a feeler gauge, look like 1/8inch at least. Imma go get a set of feelers..
Do you use any lubricant on the cam wiper felt, or on the points breaker arm?
This is actually a really good question. I didn't add any, and I don't know if you're supposed to. I'll see if I can look it up an get back to you.
Little dab of grease wouldn't hurt. 1 pin head each. Idle problems can be caused by cold engine. Defective thermostat not letting engine get to temperature.
I just bought this same motor and plan on doing a complete service on it soon. Where do you recommend for parts?
Sorry for the delayed response. Hard to say on parts, I generally just do a google search for the part numbers, and try to find something that looks the same as the part I'm replacing. Obviously the more reputable the vendor the better, but I've totally bought parts on ebay that have worked fine.
I don't have a service manual for my 1966 Evinrude 6 hp. But, these steps seem to be the same for my motor.
Great to hear, thanks for the comment!
Need some help with mine, it keeps dying after it turns over. Won’t stay on for more than 4 seconds
Hard to say in particular, but my advice is to start checking the basics - Spark, Fuel, Compression. Sounds like you have spark, but make sure the timing is set within reason. The big one I would do is clean the carburetor really well to make sure you are getting sufficient fuel flow. Also check your fuel pump (you can check this to some extent by starting the engine and pumping the bulb on the hose manually and see if it keeps the engine running). Compression is worth looking at, but if you're getting it started for a bit, it sounds like compression is good enough to get it running a little. Good luck, and if you find the problem, do let us know!
Why is it spitting while idling? Water out the back on top??
With these motors, instead of a solid stream of water coming out of a telltale that you're probably used to, they have water/exhaust telltale port that spits out water in a broken spray like that. Water coming out of that port is a visual indicator that water is being pumped through the cooling system.
After the adjustment did your roller go full throttle? You didnt show that part
Thanks for the question - yes it did go to full throttle following adjustment.
Hey thanks man you helped me huge :)
This helps a lot! If my points are less than .020, would there be a weak spark?? My ‘63 sportwin barely runs. I rebuilt the carb, check and has good compression, it has spark in both cylinders but I think they’re pretty weak
Thanks bro!
Glad it was helpful!
I too like your work with outboards. I’m curious about your background? You seem to have a very diverse background. Are you an engineer? I like the way you analyze problems.
Hi Ken! I'm actually an Immunologist who just likes to tinker with things. If I liked math better, I would have considered engineering, but I'm not sure if making it a job would take the fun out of it for me. What got you into working with outboards, and what's your background?
@@TheAfterWorkGarage
Originally about 50 years ago I was an indentured journeyman tool and die maker specialized in plastic injection molds. Worked at that for about 10 years then I got in industrial sales of punch presses and coil handling equipment. Then I got a job at a foundry that manufactured continuous cast gray and ductile iron bar stock mostly to the hydraulics industry. Then I got a job at a large iron foundry in Brazil. Then I got a job for a Rep group selling permanent mold castings mostly to the automotive industry sourcing from China.
I purchased new points for my 25 hp 1975 eve rude and rubbing block does not contact cam lob
Mind taking a look at my motor I'll pay I'm in texas your just good at what you do
It will put fuel out the carb so you don't hydrolock the motor
Thank you, and good info! Yes I realized later it's a carb bowl vent. It was just startling to see gas squirting out of motor like that.
Anyone in Wales. On here.
I'm in Swansea and need help
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P̄hm mī kherụ̄̀xng kèā xyū̀ khrạb tæ̀ h̄ā xah̄ịl̀ mị̀ dị̂ t̂xng kār khābū kherụ̄̀xng 12 ræng k̄hxng cxh̄̒n s̄ạn h̄ā pras̄ithṭhip̣hāph s̄ūng cāk pratheṣ̄thịy
It's so simple the timing advances as the throttle is advanced. Goes back to the dawn of primal.motors on motorcycles. Dandahermit
The fact that I saw hours upon hours of video on this mater
And the wild fact that you make sense and none of the other vids do
I think that you being asian has a lot to do with it