Great video. I get asked how to do this all the time by newer painters, so its great to finally have a succint and complete reference to point people to :)
Thanks so much for this. I’ve only done a single shoulder decal for my Imperial fists, as it didn’t sit flush. This is the first I’ve heard of Microsol - sounds like the perfect solution!
Having done Fists of the Imperial and Crimson variety, I can say for sure that it's a game-changer. Take your time with it and very gently work out the wrinkles with a damp brush. Let dry and repeat if necessary. After 2-3 applications it'll look like it's painted on.
Just followed this doing my Redemptor, from the tupperware lid with kitchen roll to wet the decals to how to use the Micro products correctly - thank you! Lovely wisdon here. Only thing I did differently was use Pledge floor wax as per the old Forge World Masterclass rather than gloss varnish to get the smooth surface. Someday I'll work out what Micro Flat is for...
@@cultofpaint I meant to say Klear but you know what I meant (wll Pledge Multi-surface wax formerly known as Klear) - and yes, it goes on and flowsso smoothly forming a smooth hard shell so quickly I doubt I'll ever use my actual gloss varnish.
Now all I need is a guide on where to apply which decal, especially on the different vehicles and walkers. But this video is really helpful for the techniques to use and the result looks great 👍
@@cultofpaint I just got confused with the assault intercessors. As they are troops but are marked with the assault cross. But rule of cool seems the way to go ☺️👍
Sometimes if the surface is very irregular, or the decal design is a certain shape it can help to make a small cut on the crease that is left. Then apply your microsol.
Thanks for great tips. Btw I wonder how to achieve the bluish white like the rhino in this video cover. Hope one day you will make a tutorial for this. ^^
MicroSet never seems to allow me to slide the decal around like that. I don't know if it goes bad after a while or what, but it almost seems to work worse than water for me. MicroSol, however, is a godsend - especially when using roundels like Fists on the compound curve of a shoulder pad. I've always loved the final effect - people ask me all the time if it's just really good freehand.
Hi guys! So I was looking again at this video since I just finished my bloodbowl team and the only thing left are the decals for the positions and numbers. I'm worried about the varnish because there is a great amount of metallics painted, and I don't know how the ak ultra matte varnish can affect at their shiny finish. Is it gonna flatten it a lot? Would it be better to apply the varnish with the brush only on the rim of the base and the place for the number in the back? Or am I working too much? Thanks again for so many helpful videos 😊
Perfect, I'll go with that then! Since I haven't used decals ever I didn't even knew about the microset and microsol, so I'll have to look for a place to get it here in Spain. As always, thanks for the quick response 😊
If I go over the gloss varnish with ak matt varnish it doesn't change the finish at all? I've done 3 coats and it stays glossy. I shake the bottle lots and apply it through an airbrush.
I tried this but my paint started getting removed when I was applying the decal with water after I applied the polyurethane varnish and let it dry, do you know what happened, and can I paint over the varnish to fix or do I need to apply a regular varnish first?
We can only assume you needed to apply more layers of varnish. Even so it’s very unusual for water to have removed paint. Also you’ll find it hard to paint directly on top of gloss varnish. So some sort of thin layer of matte or satin would help.
Just to close the loop, I tried again on a different mini and it went much better. I suspect that I didn’t wait long enough before applying the decals last time. This time I left the mini to dry overnight and had no problem the next day.
Micorset softens it so you can move it around, manipulating without it tearing too easily. Sort of "better water". MicroSol dissolves the film the decal is printed on effectively just leaving the ink of the image.
Great video, giving me a lot more confidence using decals on my 30k dark angels. Could you recommend a Matt or satin varnish for those without an airbrush?
For Satin, I use Vallejo acrylic satin. For matte, I use Vallejo AV Mecha Matt Varnish. Both give great results even when brushed on. I've tried a lot of others and never found one that compares.
@Cult of Paint, the varnish stages are completely unnecessary. Microsol is designed to be used in continuous passes to dissolve the transfer backing leaving only the pigment of the decal on the paint. Polyurethane varnish is also a really poor product to use if you intend to weather afterward with oils/ enamels and thinners.
I wish I knew about this when I was a kid in the 90's with no internet.
yep!
Man I can't tell you how happy I am to you post tutorial on your RUclips channel it's crazy ! Thanks man
Brilliant tutorial for something that I found was always intimidating to do, turns out its much simpler
Great video. I get asked how to do this all the time by newer painters, so its great to finally have a succint and complete reference to point people to :)
Great video, well articulated and easy to follow. Thanks for sharing.
Great video on how to get the most out of your transfers
Great job Henry, simple and concise perfect for sharing with others
Thanks mate, going to be plenty of these style of videos.
Thanks so much for this. I’ve only done a single shoulder decal for my Imperial fists, as it didn’t sit flush. This is the first I’ve heard of Microsol - sounds like the perfect solution!
Having done Fists of the Imperial and Crimson variety, I can say for sure that it's a game-changer. Take your time with it and very gently work out the wrinkles with a damp brush. Let dry and repeat if necessary. After 2-3 applications it'll look like it's painted on.
Just followed this doing my Redemptor, from the tupperware lid with kitchen roll to wet the decals to how to use the Micro products correctly - thank you! Lovely wisdon here.
Only thing I did differently was use Pledge floor wax as per the old Forge World Masterclass rather than gloss varnish to get the smooth surface.
Someday I'll work out what Micro Flat is for...
Nice one! The pledge is just nice thin gloss varnish.
@@cultofpaint I meant to say Klear but you know what I meant (wll Pledge Multi-surface wax formerly known as Klear) - and yes, it goes on and flowsso smoothly forming a smooth hard shell so quickly I doubt I'll ever use my actual gloss varnish.
Still one your best tutorials! 😃
Now all I need is a guide on where to apply which decal, especially on the different vehicles and walkers.
But this video is really helpful for the techniques to use and the result looks great 👍
The codexes are usually a pretty good starting point for ideas as to where to put the various markings. We usually prefer rule of cool though ;)
@@cultofpaint I just got confused with the assault intercessors. As they are troops but are marked with the assault cross. But rule of cool seems the way to go ☺️👍
Love the content! Keep it coming ❤️❤️
ive always waited 24 hours before applying microsol. i guess this is why i still have flatness issues at times? happy new year
Sometimes if the surface is very irregular, or the decal design is a certain shape it can help to make a small cut on the crease that is left. Then apply your microsol.
Simple, clear and classy...as always chaps :-).
Thanks for great tips. Btw I wonder how to achieve the bluish white like the rhino in this video cover. Hope one day you will make a tutorial for this. ^^
We'll do a blue white recipe video soon.
MicroSet never seems to allow me to slide the decal around like that. I don't know if it goes bad after a while or what, but it almost seems to work worse than water for me. MicroSol, however, is a godsend - especially when using roundels like Fists on the compound curve of a shoulder pad. I've always loved the final effect - people ask me all the time if it's just really good freehand.
So you need a decent drop of it on there, and a good gloss coat underneath helps a lot. But I've had my pot 6+ years and it's still good.
@@cultofpaint I always gloss coat underneath and leave the surface as wet as possible... no idea what's going wrong for me then.
@@HeadHunterSix Wrong kind of gloss varnish. Not all gloss varnishes are the same. The one you use might not work as well as the one in this video
Hi guys! So I was looking again at this video since I just finished my bloodbowl team and the only thing left are the decals for the positions and numbers. I'm worried about the varnish because there is a great amount of metallics painted, and I don't know how the ak ultra matte varnish can affect at their shiny finish. Is it gonna flatten it a lot? Would it be better to apply the varnish with the brush only on the rim of the base and the place for the number in the back? Or am I working too much?
Thanks again for so many helpful videos 😊
Hi Sergio, For the blood bowl stuff i'd use a brush yes. And just don't ultramatte it. do a gloss, decal, gloss then a satin.
Perfect, I'll go with that then! Since I haven't used decals ever I didn't even knew about the microset and microsol, so I'll have to look for a place to get it here in Spain.
As always, thanks for the quick response 😊
Where do you get these products from? Especially the microscale ones. Please!
Amazon seems to be the go to place. We've not found a local hobby store that stocks them yet.
If I go over the gloss varnish with ak matt varnish it doesn't change the finish at all? I've done 3 coats and it stays glossy. I shake the bottle lots and apply it through an airbrush.
The result should be very obvious. We’ve had varnish bottles before that have been mislabelled.
Any updates on the procedure explained in this video, or still using the same method?
Same. Just following Micro thingies instructions really.
Can I use a brush fornthe polyurethane varnish?
yes
Does it have to be polyurethane varnish or will acrylic work?@@cultofpaint
@@eliottturner6512 acrylic is fine. I use the polyurethane because i bought a big bottle and it has lasted FOREVER
at what point would you put the battle damage? before the 2nd gloss varnish?
How long should you wait for the microset to dry? You said "until it evaporates", but is that like 5 minutes or 5 hours?
I tried this but my paint started getting removed when I was applying the decal with water after I applied the polyurethane varnish and let it dry, do you know what happened, and can I paint over the varnish to fix or do I need to apply a regular varnish first?
We can only assume you needed to apply more layers of varnish. Even so it’s very unusual for water to have removed paint. Also you’ll find it hard to paint directly on top of gloss varnish. So some sort of thin layer of matte or satin would help.
Cult of Paint thank you, also I applied inks before the varnish so maybe I need more layers of varnish when using inks?
Just to close the loop, I tried again on a different mini and it went much better. I suspect that I didn’t wait long enough before applying the decals last time. This time I left the mini to dry overnight and had no problem the next day.
Cool
Out of curiosity.. what does MircoSol actually do to the decal?
Micorset softens it so you can move it around, manipulating without it tearing too easily. Sort of "better water".
MicroSol dissolves the film the decal is printed on effectively just leaving the ink of the image.
Per the MicroSol instructions you don't actually want the MicroSet to dry completely before applying the MicroSol.
Does using varnish in ur airbrush not ruin it inside?
not at all, provided you clean it as normal.
Great video, giving me a lot more confidence using decals on my 30k dark angels. Could you recommend a Matt or satin varnish for those without an airbrush?
For Satin, I use Vallejo acrylic satin. For matte, I use Vallejo AV Mecha Matt Varnish. Both give great results even when brushed on. I've tried a lot of others and never found one that compares.
@Cult of Paint, the varnish stages are completely unnecessary. Microsol is designed to be used in continuous passes to dissolve the transfer backing leaving only the pigment of the decal on the paint. Polyurethane varnish is also a really poor product to use if you intend to weather afterward with oils/ enamels and thinners.