Wow . been riding for years . Overlooked when rebuilding forks the end caps never had an issue with them ... but ya never know. Will see if i can source a set of the billet type you have ... after all my bike was built in 1978 . Thank you for the invaluable info . Cheers .
I also have a late 78 (manufactured Sept) T140E, and have the same fork seal setup. From what I can gather they only did this for one year, with the metal ring and what they call a resistance fit (i.e it presses in as a tight fit). Not that you can get it but the part number is 97-7010. I have no punch marks on the fork legs, just that tight fit for the retaining ring. Some theories to help for these types of resistance parts are to heat the external item (i.e the fork leg) and put the internal item (the ring) in the freezer. There will be a limit to how much you can heat the leg if it already has the seal. By the sounds of it, California is plenty warm enough :)
In my research I found out mine is super late in the year some of the parts on the bike should be 78 but are 79 and I was talking to a gentleman who has been running brit bikes since the 70s and looks like mine was imported from England probably by a service member. Also don't worry more vids are coming I'm working on 3 right now just parts and machine shop stuff is what I'm waiting on.
1. There is no “c clip” on the T140 forks holding the seal in. 2. The seals taken out are “Leak Proof” brand seals that use the washer to retain the seal. The rubber seal isn’t driven in. It floats . Somebody felt the punch marks were a good idea but not needed . 3. Some 78’s came with the newer style head and Mk2 carbs, most came with splayed head and Concentric carbs. I’ve seen a ‘78 also with the Lucas Rita factory elec ignition as well. (Negative ground)
Hi , are the T160forks the same but just have a top snap ring , they certainly dont have a lot parts in there , is a standard rebuild sufficient to get dampening ? What grade of oil are you using . Cheers
Idk about different forks and all I did was a standard rebuild the exact fork oil I used I dont remember, but I'm a big guy I usually use 25 weight in my bikes
Also, the fork caps is a common problem caused by the Triumph manual showing the incorrect torque value causing too tight and splitting the cast caps. Even if they are broken in two, they will still safely retain the axle . Using the billet caps is fine and they look better too.
Wow . been riding for years . Overlooked when rebuilding forks the end caps never had an issue with them ...
but ya never know. Will see if i can source a set of the billet type you have ... after all my bike was built in 1978 .
Thank you for the invaluable info . Cheers
.
You can buy them from map cycle in tampa fl or the bonneville shop is colorado
The oil weeps out or degrades over time you'll be surprised what changing it will do
@@counterculturecycles1860 thanks
@@counterculturecycles1860 I,m out here in Australia , will work something out , cheers
I also have a late 78 (manufactured Sept) T140E, and have the same fork seal setup. From what I can gather they only did this for one year, with the metal ring and what they call a resistance fit (i.e it presses in as a tight fit). Not that you can get it but the part number is 97-7010. I have no punch marks on the fork legs, just that tight fit for the retaining ring. Some theories to help for these types of resistance parts are to heat the external item (i.e the fork leg) and put the internal item (the ring) in the freezer. There will be a limit to how much you can heat the leg if it already has the seal. By the sounds of it, California is plenty warm enough :)
In my research I found out mine is super late in the year some of the parts on the bike should be 78 but are 79 and I was talking to a gentleman who has been running brit bikes since the 70s and looks like mine was imported from England probably by a service member. Also don't worry more vids are coming I'm working on 3 right now just parts and machine shop stuff is what I'm waiting on.
1. There is no “c clip” on the T140 forks holding the seal in.
2. The seals taken out are “Leak Proof” brand seals that use the washer to retain the seal. The rubber seal isn’t driven in. It floats .
Somebody felt the punch marks were a good idea but not needed .
3. Some 78’s came with the newer style head and Mk2 carbs, most came with splayed head and Concentric carbs. I’ve seen a ‘78 also with the Lucas Rita factory elec ignition as well. (Negative ground)
Mine is a late 78 and for the ignition I prefer the trispark dependable rugged and nice bit of kit and won't break the wallet
Hi , are the T160forks the same but just have a top snap ring , they certainly dont have a lot parts in there , is a standard rebuild sufficient to get dampening ? What grade of oil are you using . Cheers
Idk about different forks and all I did was a standard rebuild the exact fork oil I used I dont remember, but I'm a big guy I usually use 25 weight in my bikes
Also, the fork caps is a common problem caused by the Triumph manual showing the incorrect torque value causing too tight and splitting the cast caps.
Even if they are broken in two, they will still safely retain the axle .
Using the billet caps is fine and they look better too.
I bought my billet caps from map cycle in tampa they are a very nice part
Did you repaint the frame?or you had it powder coated?
I had it powder coated and then when I got.it back I chased all the threads clean