I love watching them fly as well, what I don't love is not finding all of them till I find one half a house away at 2:00 in the morning when I step on it in bare feet.
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx not yet. I'm still a newbie. I have a lot to learn but this filament is what I think I'll use a lot for what I'm doing with it. I'll probably get a voron I think is what they are called. The triton version
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx I was also wondering if you added a heater to an bambu carbon if it would he able to run it. I know you can't get the extruder that hot but maybe the speed of it and a heated chamber it might he able to do it. Like I said I'm a noobie but I have logic. So my theory is bambu slicers print much faster then a prusia or whatever. So maybe you could get away nit getting the extruder so hot. I'm not surevif 350 is it's actual melting temperature
@@ProjectDefi yeah it melt print at the 300c from the bambu, but itl come out super brittle and weak. defintely needs bare minumum 330c. there is no way to increase bambu nozzle beyond 300c without hacking their firmware or something. the voron is probably a very good idea for ya. i dont hear anything bad about them.
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx great to know. Then maybe build a triton. I looked at the qidi it's rad but I like to tinker and learning the hard way is the best for me. So I think building a printer would teach me a lot.
I'll really be curious to see the temperature resistance results for the annealed parts. I bought some PPS-CF10 the day it was released, and I printed a custom extruder bracket for an old printer, to allow it to use a Qidi hotend along with an Orbiter 2 extruder. It sounds like a weird setup, but I wanted to be able to use the same hotend in this printer as my XMax 3. I printed the part using the Xmax with the recommended settings, and it came out great. I haven't had any heat-related issues yet, but I suspect that un-annealed PPS is only slightly more heat resistant than Polycarbonate CF.
I was trying to do some testing in a real world like application of unannealed parts however the belts keep failing long before the parts start to fail or even show any measurable deformation. I have ordered 8mm roller chain to build a new testing fixture with and start over again taking out the belt as that is showing to be the weak point (even the high temp belt failed)
@delsydsoftware It depends a ton on the PC CF you're comparing it to, but unannealed PPS CF will start to fail around its tg (~85C). Marginally better performance than a filled ABS.
Most recommended temps are for copper nozzles. Steel ones need to add min of 10°C. I would like to see the same test with higher temp prints. I use Poly PA6CF and the difference is not small. Btw, nice work.
@@EDGEOF3D Could you repeat the layer adhesion test with 360°C? Fibers mix way better when hot. The surface gets shinier, too. What size nozzle? I use 0.6mm and slow speeds for temp saturation. When using 0.4mm it cools too fast.
@6:28 you meant rigidity, not strength. a stronger part will require more force to break, not less. pps is like printing glass. for non-cf pps, annealing is required or layer adhesion is terrible. you can easily pull apart a non annealed pps benchy by hand.
Love this content. But what happened to using standard wishbone specimens? Polymaker shows their tensile strength units in MPa in all their datasheets. Would love to see how close your values are to theirs. Formula for tensile strength is F/A = Kg/m^2 where A is the cross section. Very simple to do when working with wish bone specimens. I know that the standard wish bone size will give us too large of a cross section for use with that specific force gage. But simply reducing the cross section area to 2mmX2mm should be small enough that the force gage will not bottom out. I've done this with Polymakers ASA and several other materials and the ends results are about 5% with the manufactures datasheet. I still need to do PPS-CF10. Looking forward to your next video and hope to see heat deflection testing too!
I do not have the equipment to test the traditional wishbone, I am making that right now, waiting on some parts coming from China to finish building it then I will be testing with that as well.
Ooh, someone that tests more than one sample. Unlike SOME channels (My Tech Fun.
Good work.
Love watching those pieces fly. Most excitement in my day 😂
I love watching them fly as well, what I don't love is not finding all of them till I find one half a house away at 2:00 in the morning when I step on it in bare feet.
Colton and Luke played this video on loop like 10 times 😂. Lost their minds! Love the videos!
I'm so excited about that filament
what printer do u have to print it? being 350c temp and all. qidi?
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx not yet. I'm still a newbie. I have a lot to learn but this filament is what I think I'll use a lot for what I'm doing with it. I'll probably get a voron I think is what they are called. The triton version
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx I was also wondering if you added a heater to an bambu carbon if it would he able to run it. I know you can't get the extruder that hot but maybe the speed of it and a heated chamber it might he able to do it. Like I said I'm a noobie but I have logic. So my theory is bambu slicers print much faster then a prusia or whatever. So maybe you could get away nit getting the extruder so hot. I'm not surevif 350 is it's actual melting temperature
@@ProjectDefi yeah it melt print at the 300c from the bambu, but itl come out super brittle and weak. defintely needs bare minumum 330c. there is no way to increase bambu nozzle beyond 300c without hacking their firmware or something. the voron is probably a very good idea for ya. i dont hear anything bad about them.
@xXP1ZZAxD3MONXx great to know. Then maybe build a triton. I looked at the qidi it's rad but I like to tinker and learning the hard way is the best for me. So I think building a printer would teach me a lot.
odd that Polymaker doesn't have official tensile strength info on their datasheet for this material.
I'll really be curious to see the temperature resistance results for the annealed parts. I bought some PPS-CF10 the day it was released, and I printed a custom extruder bracket for an old printer, to allow it to use a Qidi hotend along with an Orbiter 2 extruder. It sounds like a weird setup, but I wanted to be able to use the same hotend in this printer as my XMax 3. I printed the part using the Xmax with the recommended settings, and it came out great. I haven't had any heat-related issues yet, but I suspect that un-annealed PPS is only slightly more heat resistant than Polycarbonate CF.
I was trying to do some testing in a real world like application of unannealed parts however the belts keep failing long before the parts start to fail or even show any measurable deformation.
I have ordered 8mm roller chain to build a new testing fixture with and start over again taking out the belt as that is showing to be the weak point (even the high temp belt failed)
@delsydsoftware It depends a ton on the PC CF you're comparing it to, but unannealed PPS CF will start to fail around its tg (~85C). Marginally better performance than a filled ABS.
I have thought about putting test pieces in a toaster over with a weight in the middle to see how much temp it takes to deform the parts
Yep he should def do this
Most recommended temps are for copper nozzles. Steel ones need to add min of 10°C. I would like to see the same test with higher temp prints. I use Poly PA6CF and the difference is not small. Btw, nice work.
I forgot to add my settings to the description, printed on a Voron 2.4 with a Rapido and hardened steel nozzle at 345°
@@EDGEOF3D Could you repeat the layer adhesion test with 360°C? Fibers mix way better when hot. The surface gets shinier, too. What size nozzle? I use 0.6mm and slow speeds for temp saturation. When using 0.4mm it cools too fast.
@@JoeBusic Agreed. I usually print Essentium's at 350C with a tungsten carbide nozzle, so 330 with hardened steel is definitely on the low side
@6:28 you meant rigidity, not strength. a stronger part will require more force to break, not less. pps is like printing glass. for non-cf pps, annealing is required or layer adhesion is terrible. you can easily pull apart a non annealed pps benchy by hand.
Love this content. But what happened to using standard wishbone specimens? Polymaker shows their tensile strength units in MPa in all their datasheets. Would love to see how close your values are to theirs. Formula for tensile strength is F/A = Kg/m^2 where A is the cross section. Very simple to do when working with wish bone specimens. I know that the standard wish bone size will give us too large of a cross section for use with that specific force gage. But simply reducing the cross section area to 2mmX2mm should be small enough that the force gage will not bottom out.
I've done this with Polymakers ASA and several other materials and the ends results are about 5% with the manufactures datasheet.
I still need to do PPS-CF10.
Looking forward to your next video and hope to see heat deflection testing too!
I do not have the equipment to test the traditional wishbone, I am making that right now, waiting on some parts coming from China to finish building it then I will be testing with that as well.
The automatic closed captioning did not pick up anneal and annealing correctly and made the text of your video very adult oriented.
Rofl 😂