I could have used this 20 years ago when I tried to make one out of wood. I gave up on that endeavor as carving wood was not my thing. I still have the laser etched brass panels that I got for the project so sticking those panels on this printed box would be awesome!!!
That sounds like it would look really good! There's a plain box version for those wanting to add their own details. A good colour sanded smooth and you'd never know it was 3D printed.
Toy Maker, I printed as you requested, alas I am slowly slipping into madness trying to reopen the box. Maybe its best left unopened! My soul thanks you for your time.
The modern day toy maker, himself! Such a cool design; lots of fun to fiddle with. Ordered from Jay and he did your design solid. Thanks for creating and putting stuff out there. Not surprised to see how many people always wanted something like this, myself included.
@@bizbarley74 That's weird, no kind of notification for a reply - I would have missed it if not for your other comment. Links in the description for the free model. Jay Bart Creations on Etsy does a great job if you're looking for a finished product. You'll find his product photos have been ripped off all over by drop shippers.
This thing is awesome! I have one problem. Where in the world did you get a 5mm x 150mm spring? I am looking all over with no luck. Even cut to length springs at 5mm or 3/16 are hard to find. Any ideas?
Doesn't have to be exact, anywhere from 100mm to 200mm should be fine, ebay/itm/222981900101 was the one I got. Smaller diameter or even bigger if you drill out the hole a bit.
You sir, are an absolute madman! Thank you for putting the work into this! I've wanted a cube like this ever since I saw Hellraiser 4 when I was only 9, sneaking into my dad's movies stash back in 2001. I'm fkin 29 now and a huge fan of the franchise. (1-4 and then 2022 reboot, the others were a bit meh tho). Now if you'll excuse me, I need to find the highest resolution/quality machine I can rent, so I can print this ASAP. Will post a video and provide credits for your work once it's done. I want to hand paint it and add lighting stands and all to it.
I had a friend print this and I can't believe someone created something THIS cool. Kudos, my friend; You're as talented as they come. Having said that, I cannot believe I'm asking this but.. I'm heaving so much trouble solving it. You just alternate spinning both, one after the other?? It makes a LOT more fun when you have no clue how to open it and it finally cracks, but I really wanna' show it off!
Haha, thanks! It makes my day when someone tries to solve the puzzle - most are afraid to lock it! I'm itching to make a more challenging maze, but this one is a simple zig-zag by turning the dials one after another. The only trick are short dead end paths if you go too far. Once you get a feel for it you can just kind of turn in the general direction, backtracking a bit when it gets stuck.
@@TroyMackay I have absolutely no Idea how to open it. I received it as a gift from my neighbour but I've been turning back and forth for hours now and just can't seem to get it open.
@@anthonyvangeel9509 The maze itself is pretty small so chances are you will eventually find your way out. As long as you feel a bit of resistance when turning to indicate the internal slider is moving. If you get stuck in a dead spot (dials turn but internal slider doesn't seem to move) a bit of a slap might dislodge it. The next part is recognising when you are out of the maze. One of the dials will turn freely (depending on the version you have, almost 360 degrees or completely free). In this state, the cube will only open when the dial is in the right spot. Determine which part moves up and down and apply a little tension while turning to find the spot.
My box is stuck halfway and I cannot get it past the half open point. I have tried everything. The print is amazing. Is there something I’m doing wrong?
Best viewed with "Hellraiser soundtrack 01 - Hellraiser" playing in another window at low volume + "Hellraiser soundtrack 02 - Resurrection" dragged backwards to cross fade so it ends with video
So i have this exact printed cube with the cuff that makes it harder, but i now i cant get it open. I did several times when i first got it but cant get it to open anymore no matter whay i try. Its hard to discern the top from the bottom Anymore. I was going to try and turn on dial clockwise 180 degrees and vice versa on the bottom. If i do get it open again im taking that cuff off. Any advice on how i can open it again?
@Troy Mackay What would be a perfect size of nail and perfect size of Spring? Like 7cm for nail and 12cm for Spring (or should it be bit even more for that "ideal size" like 8-15)
7cm sounds about spot on for the nail - it's just got to fit in the cavity when closed. The spring should be at least double because it needs to fully extend when the box comes apart, 15cm or maybe more to give it some pre-tension (but not too much when closed), maybe up to 18-20cm.
@@TroyMackay Thank you for your time and the info. I found Springs Kit O5,5x17,5 so that could be ideal... This is my first bigger project since i got 3d printer so i'm really happy. Oh and yea i see my question is actually asked a lot, so maybe you want to paste your replay as Q&A /FAQ . :D Cheers!
This is an amazing work and probably as far as you can get without bending dimensions in replicating the original action of the lament configuration. Because it did this other thing, too but on set they simply used another model for it. And there's no possible way to combine them both in one model. I wonder if I could print this on my resin printer.
I now own two boxes when I get on eBay that is very detailed nice and shiny Gold but comes apart in two halves I just received a movie grade piece that has a mechanism similar to this where you have to rotate the ring to unlock it. Unfortunately it's not spring loaded. I truly wish you would consider selling these I would be first in line to buy one. Great work.
From Jay Bart, right? I think he's still using an older design of mine (the fully print in place one). That one was designed to fit a spring, too. 10mm OD with an extra printed piece to hold it straight, though you could use a pop stick or something.
Yes, I think so. It will need some preparation like any other model but a few people have reported success. Links in the description. I have another version aimed for resin that is all separate parts and hollow but I suspect that's not really necessary as long as you can get light in the crevices.
Hi, I opened the links in the description and couldn’t find the difference between all them. If I show one or all of this links to a 3D printer will he be able to print this out? Thx
@@TroyMackay Thank you, but I am very dumb in this things, so if I just send the link to a 3D printer will the guy know how to do it? (The materials, size, etc)
@@cogumelo6963 You might need to make a few choices from the various files included but the print itself isn't too difficult. Like if you want it embossed or debossed or plain depending on how you plan to finish it.
Anyone have a link to one of these? I only have the regular 3d printed ones that pull apart and go back together. Also have a solid wooden one. And just got a custom, non moving replica of the new 2022 lament configuration. I would love to have one like this as well.
i really appreciate you making these files. This version looks to be much better. i just printed mine on my Elegoo Saturn resin printer and it came out prefect but I'm having a super hard time finding the right spring. Can you Plleease point me in the right direction an tell me where to get it.
I'd like to hear a bit more about the resin process, if you don't mind. Did you use the print-in-place dials and was it an issue curing? Did you hollow it out yourself using the slicer? What about print orientation and supports?
The spring is not strictly required. Once you solve the maze and get one of the dials turning freely you just apply pressure using your fingers or gravity while you turn the dial to find the right spot. If you get a deadlock in the maze itself, a slap on the top might get it moving again.
Where can I find the STL for this? I printed a few other variances but the engravings Don't print out quite right on the top or bottom. I wanted to have it ready for my collection by Halloween. But unfortunately that's already passed
Links in the description. There's a few options depending on your preference, embossed or inlaid and various degrees of assembly. Personally I find the inlaid version prints better detail, but most people seem to go for the embossed version. So I put together the most "foolproof" version here www.printables.com/model/303615 just as a single print all option. For the detail, the latest generations of slicers use dynamic line width. Cura 5 has a "minimum line width" setting (which also determines the maximum), set minimum to 0.2mm (gives maximum 0.4mm) as the model is tuned to 0.4mm line width for the fine detail. Check preview mode as you dial it in. Also, z-offset and a perfect first layer are critical for this model.
Best bet would be Jay Bart Creations on Etsy. He also has his own website now (watch out for copycats). I think he sticks to an older version but that one can take a spring, too - which I suspect you'll have to source yourself. Looks like he takes commissions, too.
Troy. i have printed the latest lament cube and love it - i am having issues putting it together due to the spring bending even with the nail - i have a solution but i need a 10mm diameter hole in the longer dial element to allow me to install a copper sleeve to receive the spring and nail. obviously i cant edit the files even in fusion 360 - could you help? i use both revit and i am learning fusion
Previous versions used a 10mm diameter hole so there is room but this will also create a weak point. Several people have reported breakages here. It was done in OpenSCAD which you can download, change the parameter for spring diameter and recompile - or just load it up in Tinkercad and subtract a cylinder. Might I suggest a small tube inside the spring, like a drinking straw or a small section of aluminium can rolled up? Slightly shortening the spring by compressing or trimming will probably fix this, too.
With a longer spring still under compression when the cube is fully open, there is a gap between the nail and the spring guide. Now if we want the cube to fully open itself, it needs this preload. I had some success wrapping a reinforcing tube (about an inch cut from a can and rolled) around the outside mid section of the spring, crimped slightly to hold it in place. I also drilled out the hole to 6mm to accommodate the extra thickness. Seemed to do the trick, though a few wraps of tape probably would too.
@@TroyMackay thanks Troy - i used Revit to recreate the dial with a 10mm hole and inserted and superglued a copper water tube to reinforce the unit, works grat
Apply a bit of turning force. If that doesn't work a few taps with a rubber mallet should free it up. You could also try laying on its side and applying a bit of downwards pressure until you hear a little crack.
I keep having issues where my ender 3 just prints one or two of the fingers of the two halves of the box way too thin. idk why the model wont print right
Pretty much Cura defaults. Layer height 0.2mm, line width 0.4mm. No brim. Not really happy with raft finish quality, but for no raft you need really good bed adhesion and perfectly dialled in first layer for all the little fiddly bits. For the debossed version shown, I also use a small support disk by enabling 100% support interface and minimum support area to make sure it only goes in middle (touching build-plate only). Print Thin Walls can help. For the new Cura v5, minimum line width 0.2mm. Check carefully in preview. Maybe add a tiny bit of Horizontal Expansion for fine detail (YMMV).
OK so I printed the lower and upper without the dial and ring as part of the print.. Obviously it seems like I should glue some items together so it doesnt just pop off.
Yeah, depending on your printer it might be a tight fit and it's not bearing the load but a couple of drops might help. (I found it more trouble than it's worth and prefer printing the dials in place)
@@TroyMackay So it was interesting. 125% printed okay, but breaking loose the top of the core was much harder than the 100% scale, but the dials and the center of the core were freed up easier. I multiplied the full model, rotated the 2nd one 180 deg and sunk into the bed to just leave the embossed section to glue to the base later. Then sunk the main print down for better bed adhesion. Still allowed for a one shot print with minimal finishing work without needing the negative pattern version. I suppose the tradeoff is less grip to rotate the dials.
Mhh, I cant seem to lock it properly. I can Only turn the top dial about 360 degrees, but cant turn the bottom dial counterclockwise. It always unlocks easily by turning back the top dial.
@@TroyMackay Thanks, I finally managed it after fiddling with it for a while. It works perfectly now, great design. Btw I found applying a little bit of silicone spray and rotating the pieces for a while with a drill makes everything turn really smooth without any binding at all.
So I'm wanting to make this for a friend, but I'm not sure how to assemble the pieces. I don't want to use the filament required if i'm unsure it's going to end up working. Is the assembly not covered in this video pretty self explanatory?
This is the complete assembly process, from the parts as they come off the printer (recommended version). There are other options available which break it down further (the dials come out and have separate retaining rings, the core spinner is separate) but they are more trouble than they are worth IMHO.
@@codacoyote3473 In that case it might be worth the trouble of printing the dials separately and using some superglue on the rings. Probably need some support and hollow it out, too. There's another version of this model that is already hollow and has drainage holes but YMMV.
I could have used this 20 years ago when I tried to make one out of wood. I gave up on that endeavor as carving wood was not my thing. I still have the laser etched brass panels that I got for the project so sticking those panels on this printed box would be awesome!!!
That sounds like it would look really good! There's a plain box version for those wanting to add their own details. A good colour sanded smooth and you'd never know it was 3D printed.
This is hands down the best 3d printed puzzle I’ve come across. Great fun
Thanks heaps
Oh Kristy so eager to play so reluctant to admit it.
Toy Maker, I printed as you requested, alas I am slowly slipping into madness trying to reopen the box. Maybe its best left unopened! My soul thanks you for your time.
Just got mine from Jay. Awesome piece! I stare at it all day
The modern day toy maker, himself! Such a cool design; lots of fun to fiddle with. Ordered from Jay and he did your design solid. Thanks for creating and putting stuff out there. Not surprised to see how many people always wanted something like this, myself included.
Thanks! I too wanted something a bit more than a solid block of wood. Jay is killing it. Always good to hear from his customers!
FINALLY!!!!! I have been searching forever for a design like this. You are a LEGEND!
Cheers! Thanks
Looking through the comments I see so much flesh, so eager to play!
This is so good. In the middle of assembling it. Thank you for putting this together and available to download :)
Where did you find this model? Where can it be purchased?
@@bizbarley74 That's weird, no kind of notification for a reply - I would have missed it if not for your other comment. Links in the description for the free model. Jay Bart Creations on Etsy does a great job if you're looking for a finished product. You'll find his product photos have been ripped off all over by drop shippers.
Absolutely gorgeous, you're making me super anxious to get a working printer again!
Cheers!
This thing is awesome! I have one problem. Where in the world did you get a 5mm x 150mm spring? I am looking all over with no luck. Even cut to length springs at 5mm or 3/16 are hard to find. Any ideas?
Doesn't have to be exact, anywhere from 100mm to 200mm should be fine, ebay/itm/222981900101 was the one I got. Smaller diameter or even bigger if you drill out the hole a bit.
My life just became much better thanks to this video. You are the best
The Box, you opened it. We came.
You sir, are an absolute madman! Thank you for putting the work into this! I've wanted a cube like this ever since I saw Hellraiser 4 when I was only 9, sneaking into my dad's movies stash back in 2001. I'm fkin 29 now and a huge fan of the franchise. (1-4 and then 2022 reboot, the others were a bit meh tho). Now if you'll excuse me, I need to find the highest resolution/quality machine I can rent, so I can print this ASAP. Will post a video and provide credits for your work once it's done. I want to hand paint it and add lighting stands and all to it.
you, sir, are a goddammed genius
I had a friend print this and I can't believe someone created something THIS cool. Kudos, my friend; You're as talented as they come. Having said that, I cannot believe I'm asking this but.. I'm heaving so much trouble solving it. You just alternate spinning both, one after the other?? It makes a LOT more fun when you have no clue how to open it and it finally cracks, but I really wanna' show it off!
Haha, thanks! It makes my day when someone tries to solve the puzzle - most are afraid to lock it! I'm itching to make a more challenging maze, but this one is a simple zig-zag by turning the dials one after another. The only trick are short dead end paths if you go too far. Once you get a feel for it you can just kind of turn in the general direction, backtracking a bit when it gets stuck.
@@TroyMackay I have absolutely no Idea how to open it. I received it as a gift from my neighbour but I've been turning back and forth for hours now and just can't seem to get it open.
@@anthonyvangeel9509 The maze itself is pretty small so chances are you will eventually find your way out. As long as you feel a bit of resistance when turning to indicate the internal slider is moving. If you get stuck in a dead spot (dials turn but internal slider doesn't seem to move) a bit of a slap might dislodge it. The next part is recognising when you are out of the maze. One of the dials will turn freely (depending on the version you have, almost 360 degrees or completely free). In this state, the cube will only open when the dial is in the right spot. Determine which part moves up and down and apply a little tension while turning to find the spot.
My box is stuck halfway and I cannot get it past the half open point. I have tried everything. The print is amazing. Is there something I’m doing wrong?
Seen so many fake puzzles around , this is the real deal :) Thanks!
Best viewed with "Hellraiser soundtrack 01 - Hellraiser" playing in another window at low volume + "Hellraiser soundtrack 02 - Resurrection" dragged backwards to cross fade so it ends with video
Amazing Creative Skills 👍👍🏻
“Come now don’t waste good suffering!”
Wow just wow I’m printing this next 😮
So i have this exact printed cube with the cuff that makes it harder, but i now i cant get it open. I did several times when i first got it but cant get it to open anymore no matter whay i try. Its hard to discern the top from the bottom Anymore. I was going to try and turn on dial clockwise 180 degrees and vice versa on the bottom. If i do get it open again im taking that cuff off. Any advice on how i can open it again?
@Troy Mackay What would be a perfect size of nail and perfect size of Spring? Like 7cm for nail and 12cm for Spring (or should it be bit even more for that "ideal size" like 8-15)
7cm sounds about spot on for the nail - it's just got to fit in the cavity when closed. The spring should be at least double because it needs to fully extend when the box comes apart, 15cm or maybe more to give it some pre-tension (but not too much when closed), maybe up to 18-20cm.
@@TroyMackay Thank you for your time and the info. I found Springs Kit O5,5x17,5 so that could be ideal... This is my first bigger project since i got 3d printer so i'm really happy. Oh and yea i see my question is actually asked a lot, so maybe you want to paste your replay as Q&A /FAQ . :D Cheers!
This is an amazing work and probably as far as you can get without bending dimensions in replicating the original action of the lament configuration. Because it did this other thing, too but on set they simply used another model for it. And there's no possible way to combine them both in one model. I wonder if I could print this on my resin printer.
Thanks. Each successive movie seemed to introduce new movements. Can't wait to see what they have done in the latest installment.
I now own two boxes when I get on eBay that is very detailed nice and shiny Gold but comes apart in two halves I just received a movie grade piece that has a mechanism similar to this where you have to rotate the ring to unlock it. Unfortunately it's not spring loaded. I truly wish you would consider selling these I would be first in line to buy one. Great work.
From Jay Bart, right? I think he's still using an older design of mine (the fully print in place one). That one was designed to fit a spring, too. 10mm OD with an extra printed piece to hold it straight, though you could use a pop stick or something.
Well done toy maker. May your end be exquisite.
Marvelous. I want to claim this... But I don't know if you deliver worldwide.
Take it. It's yours...
Free to download, and Jay Bart ships worldwide.
"WOT IS YOUR DESIRE?"
-Pinhead
This👏is👏underated
Will this print on a 3d resin printer and if so. where do I but the STL file? please and thank you
Yes, I think so. It will need some preparation like any other model but a few people have reported success. Links in the description. I have another version aimed for resin that is all separate parts and hollow but I suspect that's not really necessary as long as you can get light in the crevices.
@@TroyMackay Thank you. I'm a die-hard fan and been wanted a working model for some time.
YOUR video was recommended to me because I searched up “cool Hellraiser quotes”. I CAME.
Awesome! How/where do i get one???
This one I made myself, links to STL in description. Jay Bart Creations on Etsy sells the finished product.
Hi, I opened the links in the description and couldn’t find the difference between all them. If I show one or all of this links to a 3D printer will he be able to print this out? Thx
Yeah, they're all the same, just copied to different sharing platforms. Thingiverse is still my primary as many can sync from there.
@@TroyMackay Thank you, but I am very dumb in this things, so if I just send the link to a 3D printer will the guy know how to do it? (The materials, size, etc)
@@cogumelo6963 You might need to make a few choices from the various files included but the print itself isn't too difficult. Like if you want it embossed or debossed or plain depending on how you plan to finish it.
@Troy Mackay, could this be purchased online? If so, would you provide a link? Thanks.
Check out Jay Bart Creations on Etsy
Anyone have a link to one of these? I only have the regular 3d printed ones that pull apart and go back together. Also have a solid wooden one. And just got a custom, non moving replica of the new 2022 lament configuration. I would love to have one like this as well.
Check out Jay Bart Creations on Etsy
i really appreciate you making these files. This version looks to be much better. i just printed mine on my Elegoo Saturn resin printer and it came out prefect but I'm having a super hard time finding the right spring. Can you Plleease point me in the right direction an tell me where to get it.
eBay, item 222981900101 was the actual one I bought which is still there. 0.5x5x150
I'd like to hear a bit more about the resin process, if you don't mind. Did you use the print-in-place dials and was it an issue curing? Did you hollow it out yourself using the slicer? What about print orientation and supports?
@@TroyMackay What's you Email. i'll send you a video of how it turned out and all the detail
Added to About page. Thanks
Help how to unlock the box seems like i deadlocked it i didnt put spring .. any combination or technique how to unlock the box thanks
The spring is not strictly required. Once you solve the maze and get one of the dials turning freely you just apply pressure using your fingers or gravity while you turn the dial to find the right spot. If you get a deadlock in the maze itself, a slap on the top might get it moving again.
It takes an eternity of suffering. Just keep at it.
Where can I find the STL for this? I printed a few other variances but the engravings Don't print out quite right on the top or bottom. I wanted to have it ready for my collection by Halloween. But unfortunately that's already passed
Links in the description. There's a few options depending on your preference, embossed or inlaid and various degrees of assembly. Personally I find the inlaid version prints better detail, but most people seem to go for the embossed version. So I put together the most "foolproof" version here www.printables.com/model/303615 just as a single print all option. For the detail, the latest generations of slicers use dynamic line width. Cura 5 has a "minimum line width" setting (which also determines the maximum), set minimum to 0.2mm (gives maximum 0.4mm) as the model is tuned to 0.4mm line width for the fine detail. Check preview mode as you dial it in. Also, z-offset and a perfect first layer are critical for this model.
@@TroyMackay Thank you so much. I really appreciate you the in depth reply. I'm going to give that a try later today.
awesome box 😍
Is there a link to a 3D printer template?
Links in the description
What brand and color filament is the brown?
Prusament Mystic Brown
@@TroyMackay thank you 🤙🏻
Is there somewhere I can buy one of these spring loaded lament configuration's pre made?
Best bet would be Jay Bart Creations on Etsy. He also has his own website now (watch out for copycats). I think he sticks to an older version but that one can take a spring, too - which I suspect you'll have to source yourself. Looks like he takes commissions, too.
@@TroyMackay thanks ;-)
Troy. i have printed the latest lament cube and love it - i am having issues putting it together due to the spring bending even with the nail - i have a solution but i need a 10mm diameter hole in the longer dial element to allow me to install a copper sleeve to receive the spring and nail. obviously i cant edit the files even in fusion 360 - could you help? i use both revit and i am learning fusion
Previous versions used a 10mm diameter hole so there is room but this will also create a weak point. Several people have reported breakages here. It was done in OpenSCAD which you can download, change the parameter for spring diameter and recompile - or just load it up in Tinkercad and subtract a cylinder. Might I suggest a small tube inside the spring, like a drinking straw or a small section of aluminium can rolled up? Slightly shortening the spring by compressing or trimming will probably fix this, too.
With a longer spring still under compression when the cube is fully open, there is a gap between the nail and the spring guide. Now if we want the cube to fully open itself, it needs this preload. I had some success wrapping a reinforcing tube (about an inch cut from a can and rolled) around the outside mid section of the spring, crimped slightly to hold it in place. I also drilled out the hole to 6mm to accommodate the extra thickness. Seemed to do the trick, though a few wraps of tape probably would too.
@@TroyMackay thanks Troy - i used Revit to recreate the dial with a 10mm hole and inserted and superglued a copper water tube to reinforce the unit, works grat
How did I make the internal core move mines just solid in place I can't free it up
Apply a bit of turning force. If that doesn't work a few taps with a rubber mallet should free it up. You could also try laying on its side and applying a bit of downwards pressure until you hear a little crack.
I keep having issues where my ender 3 just prints one or two of the fingers of the two halves of the box way too thin. idk why the model wont print right
Have you tried preview mode to see if the slicer is doing anything weird at a particular point? Maybe try increasing wall thickness, too.
Hello, I am trying to put it on hard mode but I couldn’t. Can u help me pls?
I wasn't intending to make a full step-by-step solution, already said too much. Longer explanation in ruclips.net/video/H0MJJPkx5ls/видео.html
@@TroyMackay Ok, thank you
What printer did you use?
A stock Ender3, a few upgrades since this print, though. It's long, but not too difficult as long as your bed is levelled and tolerances are good.
Hello, where could I find your printer settings setup?
Pretty much Cura defaults. Layer height 0.2mm, line width 0.4mm. No brim. Not really happy with raft finish quality, but for no raft you need really good bed adhesion and perfectly dialled in first layer for all the little fiddly bits. For the debossed version shown, I also use a small support disk by enabling 100% support interface and minimum support area to make sure it only goes in middle (touching build-plate only). Print Thin Walls can help. For the new Cura v5, minimum line width 0.2mm. Check carefully in preview. Maybe add a tiny bit of Horizontal Expansion for fine detail (YMMV).
Oh, and plenty of walls. 3 minimum but more is stronger, especially for the core.
OK so I printed the lower and upper without the dial and ring as part of the print.. Obviously it seems like I should glue some items together so it doesnt just pop
off.
Yeah, depending on your printer it might be a tight fit and it's not bearing the load but a couple of drops might help. (I found it more trouble than it's worth and prefer printing the dials in place)
Call me crazy. But I NEVER fool with these things, ever...just to be safe. Lol
Super excited to try this. Have you tried a scaled up version? I was thinking of doing 125% to get a 4"x4". Thanks for sharing the files.
That should be fine. The clearances are a little on the low side (0.4mm - some recommend 0.6mm). Should handle 133% no worries.
@@TroyMackay So it was interesting. 125% printed okay, but breaking loose the top of the core was much harder than the 100% scale, but the dials and the center of the core were freed up easier. I multiplied the full model, rotated the 2nd one 180 deg and sunk into the bed to just leave the embossed section to glue to the base later. Then sunk the main print down for better bed adhesion. Still allowed for a one shot print with minimal finishing work without needing the negative pattern version. I suppose the tradeoff is less grip to rotate the dials.
Mhh, I cant seem to lock it properly. I can Only turn the top dial about 360 degrees, but cant turn the bottom dial counterclockwise. It always unlocks easily by turning back the top dial.
@@zweck4629 You have to find the right spot at 180 degrees. I made the latest version stop there as it was a bit fiddly to find.
@@TroyMackay Thanks, I finally managed it after fiddling with it for a while. It works perfectly now, great design. Btw I found applying a little bit of silicone spray and rotating the pieces for a while with a drill makes everything turn really smooth without any binding at all.
So I'm wanting to make this for a friend, but I'm not sure how to assemble the pieces. I don't want to use the filament required if i'm unsure it's going to end up working. Is the assembly not covered in this video pretty self explanatory?
This is the complete assembly process, from the parts as they come off the printer (recommended version). There are other options available which break it down further (the dials come out and have separate retaining rings, the core spinner is separate) but they are more trouble than they are worth IMHO.
@@TroyMackay good to know. i'm on a resin printer. is there anything you would suggest doing alternatively for that type of printing?
@@codacoyote3473 In that case it might be worth the trouble of printing the dials separately and using some superglue on the rings. Probably need some support and hollow it out, too. There's another version of this model that is already hollow and has drainage holes but YMMV.
All you need are some spring loaded hooks.
When people create a fully working version - this is clearly soon, the end of the world will happen. Be careful what you wish for!
The chewing….AAARGHHHHHH!!!!
Uhh guys why is there a pale bald man with pins in his head in my room??
Yeahhhhhhhh we’re all going to hell…. :)
from dead by daylight to where...
Give me my mother please..... I'll pay.....