Confirmed that the ZY-M100-S works with ZHA only after hunting and finding a custom quirk that worked online (tried a few that didn't). Have mine in the study and it seems to go into some kind of deep sleep mode overnight, have to nearly touch it to 'turn it on' and then it works well during the day. Can't recommend due to pain of setup and the sleep mode.
Well done. That had to be a lot of work. You may want to consider segmenting projects like this by price point, platform or functionality. That may add a little work but would be more digestible for the viewer. The Hook Up is a good example of this. Keep up the great work!
@@nunyabiznes80085 Thanks for your support but sorry to hear about the shipping cost. This is odd to see because we just started shipping directly from our distributor in Australia. We are using Sendle and it should be
Wow, Aaron, that's a LOT of work! 3:00 i like this sensor, because of the clean install and easy powering by AC house voltage. There's a better sensor, that also gives temp & humidity readings (and light level), but i don't think you'll review it in this video. It also costs almost $100, so there's that. But, it works better than any other so far! So far, it's only available on Crowd Supply. ~16:00. Ok, so this one you have to make your own housing?! Well, I still don't have a 3D printer, lol. (Don't have the space to operate one!) But it seems to have lots of functionality in Home Assistant....
This is great, nice work! It baffles me that there aren’t more small discrete units designed to be plugged right into an outlet. That Apollo unit was interesting, but a right angle usb c along with an outlet with built-in usbc would probably be an improvement there, aligning the sensor flat against the wall.
We just had a user in the EU talk about using a right angle adapter to plug it directly into the wall outlet. I'll see if I can get some photos and get them posted to our shop. Thanks, Justin Apollo Automation
There's a small USB-C 5V 3A (non-power delivery) charger that is basically a US wall adapter to right angle USB-C plug called the Chargerito that I've found to be perfect for presence sensors and Bluetooth proxies (albeit overpriced).
Like the other videos you did on sensors, this one is very informative and easy to understand. I was looking for a video like this and here it is. Thank you!
Don't need me to tell you how impressive this video is. Thank you! One thing to note is that when you see a "CO2" sensor", unless it's an "NDIR" sensor (which usually adds 5-15$ to the price), it's "fake co2". Often these fake CO2 sensors also do other gasses. I don't know the details but it could be useful to read up on if you're testing lots of sensors. (I do mycology work and need to monitor actual CO2 levels accurately, so I'm always checking, "Is this an NDIR CO2 sensor?") Also, totally agree, if someone made a hardwired smoke detector with mmwave and either zigbee or wifi, I'd probably replace all my hard-wired smoke alarms, that would be great. Oh, last thought; for measuring illuminance, you might want to get a standalone sensor from Amazon so you can calibrate baseline. They're pretty cheap.
The apollo website says they're using the SCD-40 sensor. According to the adafruit page it uses a photoacoustic 'true' sensor comparable to the SCD-30 which is NDIR but I'm always skeptical of manufacturer claims. Do you have any experience with the SCD-40 or its measurement technique?
@@ctownskier airgradient did some testing and they think it's a good alternative for similar accuracy that is smaller. "Low Cost CO2 Sensors Comparison: Photo-Acoustic vs NDIR" by Achim Haug
Wow, that was great! Thank you! I got both the Tuya ZY-M100 S and L since last winter. Has been working great! I actually put the L into a spotlight replacing the gu10. Looks great!
The zy-m100s is broken. All versions update the target distance every second and overload/crash zigbee networks. There's a lot of info on github about flashing modified firmware to fix it.
WOW, I hope these companies appreciate all the work and effort you go into in these comparison videos, I know we do on here. Excellent Jon Aaron, I hope you are well 🇺🇸🇬🇧
You need to put the Aqara FP2 up in a corner near the ceiling to show its true power. Plus, correct configuration with rhis sensor is key. It's a matter of try and error, but when you get it the rsults are fantastic.
The Sonoff SNZB-06P now also has dection sensivity added. It's just low, medium and high - but that may be just enough to allow for some adjustments. On high setting, the sensor detects presence at ~ 5m. There seems to be a ~ 1m extra distance before it show not-occupied. The presence detection timeout can be set from 15 - 60 seconds.
Thanks for the really great video! Thanks for the effort you take to test them all! I only missed an explanation what the difference is between the 5.8 and 24 G version. I see same devices with both version.
I agree, on paper the 24ghz look better, but when you read the comments some users say the 24ghz was way too sensitive and as such very difficult to setup without getting false positives compared to the 5.8.
I am pretty sure the ceiling mounted sensor (Tuya M100-1) needs an electrical box since it residential AC. It might fit in a round electrical box and could be mounted to a modified round cover plate.
Thanks for another great video, very detailed, somehow i was hoping to see the new Govee but might be too new, just saw the guy from Canada talk about it
Awesome video, as usual. Also, it solved a problem: I now know why my linptech sensors didn't pair. I didn't realise there was a non-ZigBee version. Thank you so much
Somehow missed this vidro a year ago. Thanks for mentioning it in thepart 2. You should link part 2 in this description or a pinned comment, etc. Now back to part 2/yearly update.
I agree, however isn't it just like changing a spot light ? Also, from my personnal experience, I did not have to reset my motion sensors since more than a year.
hey @makeitworktech nI watched your video months ago to grasp what the options were and what features were available, and now I'm ready to buy my new mmwave presence detector, thanks fot this very comprehensive review. I'd like to also comment that I tried to see the written version on your site and the page isnt loading.
Hello! I have Athom that is a great sensor and neat usb cable. It detect from a 5m distance. Also i have sonoff sensor that now have sensitivity option. Good sensor but it takes aprox 1 sec to detect motion in compare with Athom. But sonoff is half price. Athom came with power adapter but sonoff doesn't. I want to purchase several more but i think i will go again for Athom! Thank you for your work, a ton of effort!
The celling recessed unit is a great idea but having the pairing button on the back isn't so great. I'm sure there's going to be quite a few times that this will need to be re paired and after time the plaster board will start to crumble around those spring clips.
i've been waiting for this video for months, i always enjoy these thorough tests of you. I have the ZY-M100 ceiling sensor (although from your video it seems you have a newer revision) and in my experience its utter garbage, turning off presense when i am laying right under it watching a movie, other times showing presence the whole night when everyone is asleep in the other end of the house, so its completely usless for automations
Thanks for the video it helps to choose between all the sensors. I would like to see a video how to Calibrate them. I use one on the toilet but the waves go trough de door.
I've got a Athom presence sensor which has been quiet good, running the BlakAdder ESPhome code. I've also been thinking of chip swapping it to an ESP32 so i can include Bluetooth and voice.
Great guide. I really like the limptech ones. I have three of them and they work solid. They have a very good range which works in larger rooms. Thanks for the info
Phew that was a lot to watch, very appreciative of the hard work you put into that, thank you! Just getting started in the smart home/automations world. I was curious about that 2nd Aqara sensor but after this I think I’m going with the esp lites for the moment. Thanks again for the video!
Great video, the only thing that would help is overlaying a summary table with response time (or a score there of) etc all on the screen at the ends as it got a little confusing to deduce the pros and cons myself (In have a FP2 atm and am not certain where it stands in the pack and if I get a significant or negligible upgrade. Do you have a table you can share (sorry if I missed it) Also with the FP2 firmware upgrade is it now good you say a little better what does that mean?
If you use them outside, they don't work if it's raining. They just continuously report a presence. They also report a presence if a person is behind the sensor.
Thank you very much and thanks RUclips for recommending me this video. Amazing stuff! Next time you can also test the angle performace (distance and how wide it detects).
Hey Aaron, I have the first one you reviewed and I'm trying to get it configured. My biggest question is where you got the interface (2:00) that shows all of the stuff the devices can do. I don't have that in HA.
Excellent video!! Thanks for the efforts. Have you had a chance to look on at the new Aqara FP1E? I’m heavily invested in Apple HomeKit smart home and use Home Assistance to integrate non-native HomeKit devices. Which option would you recommend for integration into HomeKit. Main use is to control 10 air conditioners in different rooms based on occupancy.
I tend to agree with you regarding the black sensor, mine is wifi and keeps dropping the network but even worse I used it to trigger a bathroom light and it was a mess partially because it does not like to retrigger when someone is in the vicinity but also because of its unreliable wifi connection
It would be best to avoid messing with mains power. If you are going to, make sure that there isn't any copper exposed since it is a spark hazard. Also those spring terminals don't take much force for the wire to pull out.
Well avoid it if you know nothing about it. If you're competent, then I would advise crimping ferrules on to those stranded mains and test the spring terminals by yanking on them. If they're decent they should be solid. And as you said - no bare metal on the outside of the terminals. And of course turn off the mains and check that the wires have no voltage before doing anything.
I bought a Linptech Zigbee after your great video. Works fast as a PIR sensor. But it is sad you compare all those sensor to the Aqara FP2. FP2 is way more advance thanks to the interface where you can add zone/interference/room size directly in a map view. Agreed it take about 2 weeks to setup and some of my hair. But on the other side a presence sensor detect everything, a small movement in the curtain, the bathroom fan, the dishwasher running, this make it useless even if you play with the sensibility…
Nice video, I mis one thing, how noisy are these sensors? I tried a zy-m100 ceiling mount 5ghz that reports as zy-m100-s_2 and it’s reporting every second in z2mqtt and that’s not the best for the zigbee network. Have you numbers about these sensors?
Thanks for your comparison! Doesnt anyone else have the problem that the m100 doesnt detect me sitting still for longer time? When I'm just sitting still reading, it will turn off the lights on me. It takes way longer than with a traditional PIR. But with the fp2 it never happens.
@@theattorney6072 it's the wall version. I set the fading to 30s. But if I'm sitting very, very still in front of it (or fell asleep), it will detect me as away
would love to buy the EP1 or EPL, they just never seem to be in stock, would love if they would work on ramping up the production, it seems to always go instantly out of stock, i know its made by 1 man, though i dont know if it is also just one man handeling the production of it, but considering its popularity i would hope he would work on improving its production, because i keep hearing alot of good about it, but its just never possible to get one, so i end up using my money elsewhere.
Well done. That must have taken ages. I use quite a few of those sensors, my favourite is the everything presence lite. Once you set a trigger distance it is so consistently accurate. Works very well. Thanks again for all your hard work, appreciated.
Fantastic video thank you so much for your time and investment. In you opinion which sensor is best for zones? I want to mount one on the ceiling to distinguish between the hallway and staircase
I'm renovating my home and i like the idea of having a ceiling mounted powered by AC sensor. I don't want cables hanging on the wall. Do you know any PIR sensor like that?
The ZY-M100-L Doesn't meet NEC for anyone living in the US installed in the way it's described. NEC requires ALL wiring terminals at the 120v this thing requires be in a UL listed box in the ceiling or wall. You could mount a box in the ceiling, bring your cable to the box (secured properly), then drill your 2" hole into a blank cover plate and attach this to the cover plate, but just mounting it with bare wires in the ceiling is asking for a fire and a denied insurance claim.
I had the same concern. The spring terminals are janky as as well. The cables pull out so easily. There are connections on the pcb that accept 12v DC in. They’re not labelled, but it at least lets you use a downlight transformer and bypass the seriously lacking built in circuitry.
Awesome video, very appreciated ☺️ a good add on would be to have a rating how fast and accurate the devices react.... Which one is the fastest btw? And whoch one has the fastest cooldown time ? Would be awesome to know 😊
My FP2 has a cooldown of under 20 seconds, You need to set up zones correctly in the app and add entrances and exits, which I suspect was not done, but overall this has been a quite informative video.
Hello there! Thanks for the great analysis, could you please take a deeper look at the MTG275-ZB-RL, as it plugs directly to the mains and has the internal relay, it looks like a greate device for some usefull automations with great espouse approval as it's pretty and would reduce the amount of holes we make on our walls and ceilings .
Remarkable. I was waiting for this for some time and might go for EP lite once they r in stock. One thing that I've been meaning to ask u for some time now, is how you fixed those speakers on the shelf upside down? Creative speakers, aren't they? I have the same and been thinking of a clean way to do it like u did but out of ideas... 😊
Great video you clearly put a lot of effort into this.. I bought the EP1 when it first came out when the only real competiion was from Aqara. I bought it mainly to support Lewis, it is good to know that it stands up well to the competiion now that there are much more options on the market. You have presuaded me that I should also get the EP Lite.
Great review, thanks for taking the time. What would have made it even better was if we had bookmarks for the video included so I can rewatch reviews for particular sensors
Fantastic video. Soo much detail. Can anyone recommend a small batch 3D printing service in the UK which will accept thin walled models like this one? Would like to get the Hilink but don't have a 3d printer.
Hi, I have a question please. I'll start to play with this also and I have the ATHOM PS01 in my shopping list already. The question is, do I one in each room of the house or with the ATHOM PS01 I can set diferent rooms? Thanks
Super job Erin. I think the pet detection was mostly not detecting small pets and getting a false human triggers. One of the challanges with mmwave detectors is false triggers with small movements of curtains or plants in a slight breeze, air conditioner or fan air movement. This can be some of the false triggers or ghosting people see. Most of these can be solved by sensor positioning and sensitivity settings. But many folks just want to stick it in a hidden location and have it work out of the box. But reality requires tinkering. If you are not too sick of mmwave, would like to see the capability and ease of use of the multi- zone versions. And maybe some cool automations!!
This is an awesome review of the different models on the market - although I feel a bit of prejudice for being a ZHA user lol I would add that you could have used actual rounded values for the prices, instead of $$$ for price ranges. For instance, going from $9 to $40 to idk-how-expensive is quite a difference (specially when you consider the Athom as a "good for the price" when you consider the biggest addition is a PIR sensor, comparing with the cheaper Tuya ones.
Nice video, very informative. But you need to do a bass-cut on your mic, its overpowered and doesnt sound good! Makes my subwoofer go hmmmmmmm. (Which isnt good)
Great bit of work. Almost all my rooms have ceiling fans, how is this technology going to handle this. I noticed you said, the Tuya MTG275-ZB-RL had a shield range to ignore close objects, so if ceiling mounted I hope the fans can be ignored. True? Any others have shield range, or can min range or the gate threshold setting achieve the same effect?
Thanks for including the group shot at 0:30. I didn't realise that these devices need USB power. I don't have plug outlets where I want to place the sensors. So I guess that rules out mmWave sensors for me and I should look for something else.
Hey thanks for this video. I started looking into these for fall detection for my grandmother. I would love to hear your thoughts on the Aquara sensor. Also some of your links are dead for the ones you recommended here.
Love the LD2410 for the huge versatility on the move and still energy and all the gate configurations. How do you feel it compares with the LD2450? Thanks and great video!
The LD2450 can track multiple targets but it has trouble with still targets. I believe, the HA community is still waiting for full LD2450 support. With the LD2410 users have been eliminating false triggers by using the Radar Engineering Mode and fine tuning the gates. It's been a game changer for sure!
I have the ZY-M100-L but in wifi form. I bought it to play with because of its form factor. I found you can power it with 12VDC which you can get from downlight transformers, which bypasses the horrifying parts of the sensor. Having said this, I’ve found the ‘on’ latency to be a few seconds. I can walk into the middle of the room before my light switches on (or the app registers that I’m there as well). It’s far slower than my FP2, but has less ghosting issues. My question, there was an offhand comment about response time, but couldn’t really determine which was best in this instance. Which one was fastest to reliably pick up detection? Hoping to be able to have something switch on as I first enter the room! Thanks heaps for pulling all this together! There are a few I hadn’t heard of that I’m really keen to try out!
I was thinking of putting some motion detectors powered by AC on the ceiling to turn on the lights on the corridor. But one requirement is that it does it fast. You don't recommend de ZY-M100-L for this task? I searched for AC powered PIR sensors but didn't find any.
@@barygol steer clear of this sensor. It’s sketchy at best. There’s no way you should ever power it with 110/240v. It wouldn’t comply with any local standard and is a recipe for a fire. You can power it with 12v if you wire it in after the power circuitry, which is marginally better. Having said that, I’ve found it’s pretty slow. Not sure if it’s just the wifi version or not. At the moment I’m thinking of getting one of the usbc powered ones (ep1/ep1 lite/apollo), gutting a regular downlight and using that for the case. Then I can use POE with a USB adapter like the Ubiquiti INS-3AF-USB to power it. That way I’m not messing with line voltage, it has over current protection and it’s easily replaceable with other devices down the track. Disclaimer, I’ve not tried this, it could be fundamentally flawed and I don’t know yet 😅
@@pretenda ok thanks for the advice. I will continue with the search. I might look into ZWave or 433 MHz sensors. I read last week that Shelly released a small motion sensor with Bluetooth
Awesome job Aaron! You put a lot of work into this and it shows. I think this should be the go-to for anyone considering MM Wave sensors. I'm still waiting for the EP light to come back in stock, so that's going to be my choice. As always, thanks for sharing and for all your help!
@@MakeItWorkTech Thx. Don't you think it may become exposed later through an update ? Considering the look of the sensor, it makes sense that it has a motion sensor.
I'd like a "So your going to make your home smart" video. You choose a system that has thread/matter and whatever other routers you'd need.... the smart bulbs, wall switches, blinds, sensors, etc. A best bang for the buck with future proofing system... With an itemized list that includes MSRP prices. - that's what I want in a video from you, or Paul Hibbert, or somebody, anybody. Please!
Wow I'm surprised you didn't like the FP1, I've tried a few of the ones you've listed (no name black box, one of the other tuyas, and the sonoff) and it's the only one that actually detected consistently, but maybe I'll have to look into the other recs now (especially the athom and eplite). Apollo looks very promising too! I'm curious whether testing these all at once might have affected the results; if they're all sending 24 GHz etc waves around, you're almost certainly going to get some interference
Amazing work here! Thoughts on the Tuya ZY-ML100-L. Really liking this one, but any concerns it would need to be pulled of the ceiling for resetting or maintenance? I have a very small space above my ceiling and would be a mini nightmare to get this back out.
I am pretty sure the ceiling mounted sensor (Tuya M100-1) needs an electrical box since it residential AC. If you install power to a round electrical box and mount the sensor to a round coverplate you could access it by removing two screws. Perhaps this seems like a lateral move but I think it is better because less force is needed and there is less risk of drywall damage.
Great comparison video. I just bought the linknlink emotion Radar sensor. This works even when hidden inside a cupboard. Is this also the case for mmwave sensors or do they need to be in the open
Part 2 is out now!
ruclips.net/video/NU1mo1aElmU/видео.html
Good video man, thanks for including the EP1 and Lite and great to see they stack up well! 😅
They are excellent products. Thank you for your work
Appreciate it!
Thanks! Super impressed with both, but especially the Lite! Super cool to include BT proxy - a feature that's "under the radar" haha
@@MakeItWorkTech do you know if the presence sensor can detect through a window? Will it pick up movement outside if it is mounted inside a window
Thanks for watching! Written version here:
www.makeitwork-tech.com/best-mmwave-presence-sensors-for-home-assistant/
-- Products in this video --
Tuya ZY-M100-S: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dm0Z0mn
Tuya ZY-M100-L: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkdpAxp
Tuya ZG-205ZL: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DChNKiR
Tuya PH-HPS: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDXseTZ
Tuya MTG275-ZB-RL: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DB19FMf
Tuya TZ-GS-200: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ddo5xCr
Tuya YXZBRB58: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdvyK9l
Mijia Linptech ES1: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mOlyuAw
Mijia Linptech ES1ZZ(TY): amzn.to/3LaReMZ
Hi-Link HLK-LD2410 (Color: LD2410 kit): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkzE5GP
ATHOM PS01: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBDPN4B
Everything Presence One: shop.everythingsmart.io/en-us/products/everything-presence-one-kit
Everything Presence Lite: shop.everythingsmart.io/en-us/products/everything-presence-lite
Aqara RTCZCGQ11LM: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkTlt9Z
Aqara PS-S02E: amzn.to/3R3mEIV
Tuya ZG-205Z: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFBJLH5
Sonoff SNZB-06P: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDEpKcr
Apollo MSR-1: shop.apolloautomation.cloud/92mtun
Links dont work? not the hilink one
Confirmed that the ZY-M100-S works with ZHA only after hunting and finding a custom quirk that worked online (tried a few that didn't). Have mine in the study and it seems to go into some kind of deep sleep mode overnight, have to nearly touch it to 'turn it on' and then it works well during the day. Can't recommend due to pain of setup and the sleep mode.
@@RahulParmar1978it is the wall version right ? Did you try the ceiling one ?
@@iwaru1 You have to select the correct version once you click the hilink one
Really useful roundup - thanks. Annoying how must of them have the USB connector on the edge rather than hidden away on the back.
Thanks! Yeah the back would be a little better looking for sure!
Well done. That had to be a lot of work. You may want to consider segmenting projects like this by price point, platform or functionality. That may add a little work but would be more digestible for the viewer. The Hook Up is a good example of this. Keep up the great work!
That's a good point. I really could have done 2 or 3 videos. Will definitely do this for future comparisons!
AI generated comment.
Exactly My thought.
Been waiting for this. I know it will be a top quality video as always. Don't need to wait finish watching it.
Was a bit of a rush to release, and my first long video in 4k, so I hope it cam out ok!
Wow! This really is a comprehensive video. I feel like I am going to have to watch it a few times just to take it all in. Great work.
Thanks, Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic video! We appreciate you including our small company and it was nice to see the MSR-1 at the top of the pack! Thanks!
It's a nice little sensor you have there!
oh god, they use dog analogies hahahaha
@@igorsantos07 ;)
I went to buy one of your sensors after seeing so many great reviews. Unfortunately, the shipping costs to Australia were too high at $30.
@@nunyabiznes80085 Thanks for your support but sorry to hear about the shipping cost. This is odd to see because we just started shipping directly from our distributor in Australia. We are using Sendle and it should be
Wow, Aaron, that's a LOT of work!
3:00 i like this sensor, because of the clean install and easy powering by AC house voltage.
There's a better sensor, that also gives temp & humidity readings (and light level), but i don't think you'll review it in this video. It also costs almost $100, so there's that. But, it works better than any other so far!
So far, it's only available on Crowd Supply.
~16:00. Ok, so this one you have to make your own housing?! Well, I still don't have a 3D printer, lol. (Don't have the space to operate one!)
But it seems to have lots of functionality in Home Assistant....
This is great, nice work!
It baffles me that there aren’t more small discrete units designed to be plugged right into an outlet. That Apollo unit was interesting, but a right angle usb c along with an outlet with built-in usbc would probably be an improvement there, aligning the sensor flat against the wall.
We just had a user in the EU talk about using a right angle adapter to plug it directly into the wall outlet. I'll see if I can get some photos and get them posted to our shop.
Thanks,
Justin
Apollo Automation
There's a small USB-C 5V 3A (non-power delivery) charger that is basically a US wall adapter to right angle USB-C plug called the Chargerito that I've found to be perfect for presence sensors and Bluetooth proxies (albeit overpriced).
@@jhoff80 Noted! Thanks for the recommendation.
Cheers,
Justin
Apollo Automation
Awesome video! This breakdown was a very detailed and a badly needed. Your review of all these mmWave options is extremely helpful.
Awesome, thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Your content is excellent, and this thorough of a comparison is a great example of your dedication to provide value. Outstanding! Thank you!
Thanks!! What do you mean by "pirated"?
@makeitworktech I got autocorrected in the worst way LOL! "Your content is excellent..."
@@mikeklann hah thanks, I thought you meant someone was stealing it 😂
Like the other videos you did on sensors, this one is very informative and easy to understand. I was looking for a video like this and here it is. Thank you!
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
Don't need me to tell you how impressive this video is. Thank you! One thing to note is that when you see a "CO2" sensor", unless it's an "NDIR" sensor (which usually adds 5-15$ to the price), it's "fake co2". Often these fake CO2 sensors also do other gasses. I don't know the details but it could be useful to read up on if you're testing lots of sensors. (I do mycology work and need to monitor actual CO2 levels accurately, so I'm always checking, "Is this an NDIR CO2 sensor?")
Also, totally agree, if someone made a hardwired smoke detector with mmwave and either zigbee or wifi, I'd probably replace all my hard-wired smoke alarms, that would be great.
Oh, last thought; for measuring illuminance, you might want to get a standalone sensor from Amazon so you can calibrate baseline. They're pretty cheap.
The apollo website says they're using the SCD-40 sensor. According to the adafruit page it uses a photoacoustic 'true' sensor comparable to the SCD-30 which is NDIR but I'm always skeptical of manufacturer claims. Do you have any experience with the SCD-40 or its measurement technique?
@@ctownskier airgradient did some testing and they think it's a good alternative for similar accuracy that is smaller.
"Low Cost CO2 Sensors Comparison: Photo-Acoustic vs NDIR" by Achim Haug
Mycology... I bet you're a funguy.🙃
Wow, that was great! Thank you!
I got both the Tuya ZY-M100 S and L since last winter. Has been working great!
I actually put the L into a spotlight replacing the gu10. Looks great!
Glad you enjoyed! That's an awesome way to use it -should fit just perfect!
Do you recommend the ZY-M100-L ?
I want a sensor for the corridor ceiling but it needs to detect fast.
@@barygol It is probably slightly slower than a PIR...but fast enough for me!
The zy-m100s is broken. All versions update the target distance every second and overload/crash zigbee networks. There's a lot of info on github about flashing modified firmware to fix it.
WOW, I hope these companies appreciate all the work and effort you go into in these comparison videos,
I know we do on here.
Excellent Jon Aaron,
I hope you are well 🇺🇸🇬🇧
Thank you! I'm glad the hard work is paying off, and thank you for the support!! 🙏
Thank you. Waiting for the ZHA info on the written review. Also Hope to get more info about the Apollo MK1 (dedicated video).
Thank you!
Cheers,
Justin
Apollo Automation
Oh my, thank you for explaining all the more unintuitive settings at 9:05. You deserve all the views.
You're welcome! Wow, thanks!
You need to put the Aqara FP2 up in a corner near the ceiling to show its true power. Plus, correct configuration with rhis sensor is key. It's a matter of try and error, but when you get it the rsults are fantastic.
At what height ? The problem is the Map when you place it in a corner.
@@theattorney6072 if you put it in a corner 1.5-1.8m it's probably best if you want it to track people. Above 2m you must tilt it a bit.
Great video! Thanks for the hard work to compare these
Thanks! 🙏
The Sonoff SNZB-06P now also has dection sensivity added. It's just low, medium and high - but that may be just enough to allow for some adjustments. On high setting, the sensor detects presence at ~ 5m. There seems to be a ~ 1m extra distance before it show not-occupied.
The presence detection timeout can be set from 15 - 60 seconds.
Thanks for the really great video! Thanks for the effort you take to test them all!
I only missed an explanation what the difference is between the 5.8 and 24 G version. I see same devices with both version.
On paper the 24G is better, but I'm not sure if it's correct
I agree, on paper the 24ghz look better, but when you read the comments some users say the 24ghz was way too sensitive and as such very difficult to setup without getting false positives compared to the 5.8.
I am pretty sure the ceiling mounted sensor (Tuya M100-1) needs an electrical box since it residential AC. It might fit in a round electrical box and could be mounted to a modified round cover plate.
Thanks for another great video, very detailed, somehow i was hoping to see the new Govee but might be too new, just saw the guy from Canada talk about it
Hmm, I haven't seen that! Thanks, lll have to check it out!
Thanks for the detailed info on each of these. Well done.
Thanks!!
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to test these devices for us.
Awesome video, as usual. Also, it solved a problem: I now know why my linptech sensors didn't pair. I didn't realise there was a non-ZigBee version. Thank you so much
Glad it helped!
So much work and effort must go into these reviews. Smashed like and hammered the subscribe button 👍👍
Welcome aboard! Thank you for your support!!
Somehow missed this vidro a year ago. Thanks for mentioning it in thepart 2. You should link part 2 in this description or a pinned comment, etc.
Now back to part 2/yearly update.
Thanks, I'll do that!!
Thank you very much for the video!👍
You're welcome!
Love the ceiling option, but yeah - pairing button ought to be more accessible. Once installed, good luck pressing that button ever again.
I agree, however isn't it just like changing a spot light ? Also, from my personnal experience, I did not have to reset my motion sensors since more than a year.
hey @makeitworktech nI watched your video months ago to grasp what the options were and what features were available, and now I'm ready to buy my new mmwave presence detector, thanks fot this very comprehensive review.
I'd like to also comment that I tried to see the written version on your site and the page isnt loading.
Hello! I have Athom that is a great sensor and neat usb cable. It detect from a 5m distance.
Also i have sonoff sensor that now have sensitivity option. Good sensor but it takes aprox 1 sec to detect motion in compare with Athom. But sonoff is half price.
Athom came with power adapter but sonoff doesn't.
I want to purchase several more but i think i will go again for Athom!
Thank you for your work, a ton of effort!
Glad it helped! Athom is definitely a better option!
The celling recessed unit is a great idea but having the pairing button on the back isn't so great. I'm sure there's going to be quite a few times that this will need to be re paired and after time the plaster board will start to crumble around those spring clips.
Yeah, that's a very good point! Access to the parking button is critical
i've been waiting for this video for months, i always enjoy these thorough tests of you. I have the ZY-M100 ceiling sensor (although from your video it seems you have a newer revision) and in my experience its utter garbage, turning off presense when i am laying right under it watching a movie, other times showing presence the whole night when everyone is asleep in the other end of the house, so its completely usless for automations
5.8GHz version or 24GHz Version?
Try setting fading time to 40 and reducing sensibility it helps
Thanks for the video it helps to choose between all the sensors. I would like to see a video how to Calibrate them. I use one on the toilet but the waves go trough de door.
I've got a Athom presence sensor which has been quiet good, running the BlakAdder ESPhome code.
I've also been thinking of chip swapping it to an ESP32 so i can include Bluetooth and voice.
Amazing video!! You have really covered most relevant sensors for my personal use. Well done
Awesome, glad to hear it!!
very comprehensive, thank you so much for this, so much hard work, much appreciated
Thanks!
I really appreciate the help. I was so confused what to get as I want to get into presence. I really didn't know where to start looking.
Great guide. I really like the limptech ones. I have three of them and they work solid. They have a very good range which works in larger rooms. Thanks for the info
Phew that was a lot to watch, very appreciative of the hard work you put into that, thank you! Just getting started in the smart home/automations world. I was curious about that 2nd Aqara sensor but after this I think I’m going with the esp lites for the moment. Thanks again for the video!
Glad it could help! Feel free to check out our discord if you need help or want to share your automation projects!
I like the look of the roof mounted one except it's tuya. And ZigBee
I hear that
Amazing video! Chapter points would be super helpful to navigate and revisit.
Great video, the only thing that would help is overlaying a summary table with response time (or a score there of) etc all on the screen at the ends as it got a little confusing to deduce the pros and cons myself (In have a FP2 atm and am not certain where it stands in the pack and if I get a significant or negligible upgrade. Do you have a table you can share (sorry if I missed it)
Also with the FP2 firmware upgrade is it now good you say a little better what does that mean?
If you use them outside, they don't work if it's raining. They just continuously report a presence. They also report a presence if a person is behind the sensor.
Makes sense
Thank you very much and thanks RUclips for recommending me this video. Amazing stuff! Next time you can also test the angle performace (distance and how wide it detects).
Thanks! I actually did make a little chart comparing them, but did not test them for accuracy. The chart will be in the written version coming soon.
Hey Aaron,
I have the first one you reviewed and I'm trying to get it configured. My biggest question is where you got the interface (2:00) that shows all of the stuff the devices can do. I don't have that in HA.
Excellent video!! Thanks for the efforts. Have you had a chance to look on at the new Aqara FP1E? I’m heavily invested in Apple HomeKit smart home and use Home Assistance to integrate non-native HomeKit devices. Which option would you recommend for integration into HomeKit. Main use is to control 10 air conditioners in different rooms based on occupancy.
I tend to agree with you regarding the black sensor, mine is wifi and keeps dropping the network but even worse I used it to trigger a bathroom light and it was a mess partially because it does not like to retrigger when someone is in the vicinity but also because of its unreliable wifi connection
Pretty bad! I did not get the WiFi version, but the Zigbee version is just as bad!
It would be best to avoid messing with mains power. If you are going to, make sure that there isn't any copper exposed since it is a spark hazard. Also those spring terminals don't take much force for the wire to pull out.
Yeah, best to put it in a box I guess
Well avoid it if you know nothing about it. If you're competent, then I would advise crimping ferrules on to those stranded mains and test the spring terminals by yanking on them. If they're decent they should be solid. And as you said - no bare metal on the outside of the terminals. And of course turn off the mains and check that the wires have no voltage before doing anything.
Great work, but I must suggest that a chart with the name, capability, performance, and price with all of these on it would be quite useful.
I bought a Linptech Zigbee after your great video. Works fast as a PIR sensor. But it is sad you compare all those sensor to the Aqara FP2. FP2 is way more advance thanks to the interface where you can add zone/interference/room size directly in a map view. Agreed it take about 2 weeks to setup and some of my hair. But on the other side a presence sensor detect everything, a small movement in the curtain, the bathroom fan, the dishwasher running, this make it useless even if you play with the sensibility…
Nice video, I mis one thing, how noisy are these sensors? I tried a zy-m100 ceiling mount 5ghz that reports as zy-m100-s_2 and it’s reporting every second in z2mqtt and that’s not the best for the zigbee network. Have you numbers about these sensors?
I don't have numbers, but the GS-200 and the ZY sensors were noisy, but didn't negatively affect my network that I could see
This is an important point. I've added 5 zy-m100 presence sensors to my busy ZigBee network (close to 200 devices) and it crashes every few days!
Great work! The ZY-M100 floods the ZigBee network reporting every second.
It's no good for me!!!
Thanks for your comparison! Doesnt anyone else have the problem that the m100 doesnt detect me sitting still for longer time? When I'm just sitting still reading, it will turn off the lights on me. It takes way longer than with a traditional PIR. But with the fp2 it never happens.
How much time ? Which m100, ceiling or wall ?
@@theattorney6072 it's the wall version. I set the fading to 30s. But if I'm sitting very, very still in front of it (or fell asleep), it will detect me as away
would love to buy the EP1 or EPL, they just never seem to be in stock, would love if they would work on ramping up the production, it seems to always go instantly out of stock, i know its made by 1 man, though i dont know if it is also just one man handeling the production of it, but considering its popularity i would hope he would work on improving its production, because i keep hearing alot of good about it, but its just never possible to get one, so i end up using my money elsewhere.
30:21 it says sonoff is 24ghz, where everywhere on internet people say it's 5ghz, so I'm consfused. Where you found that info?
Sorry, you're completely correct! It's 5.8 GHz, not sure where I got 24
Well done. That must have taken ages.
I use quite a few of those sensors, my favourite is the everything presence lite. Once you set a trigger distance it is so consistently accurate. Works very well.
Thanks again for all your hard work, appreciated.
Thanks!! EPLite is awesome!
Fantastic video thank you so much for your time and investment. In you opinion which sensor is best for zones? I want to mount one on the ceiling to distinguish between the hallway and staircase
Thanks! Best for Zones was the FP2 for me!
I'm renovating my home and i like the idea of having a ceiling mounted powered by AC sensor. I don't want cables hanging on the wall.
Do you know any PIR sensor like that?
Been waiting for this video 🎉
It took months! Haha
The ZY-M100-L Doesn't meet NEC for anyone living in the US installed in the way it's described. NEC requires ALL wiring terminals at the 120v this thing requires be in a UL listed box in the ceiling or wall. You could mount a box in the ceiling, bring your cable to the box (secured properly), then drill your 2" hole into a blank cover plate and attach this to the cover plate, but just mounting it with bare wires in the ceiling is asking for a fire and a denied insurance claim.
I had the same concern. The spring terminals are janky as as well. The cables pull out so easily. There are connections on the pcb that accept 12v DC in. They’re not labelled, but it at least lets you use a downlight transformer and bypass the seriously lacking built in circuitry.
Awesome video, very appreciated ☺️ a good add on would be to have a rating how fast and accurate the devices react.... Which one is the fastest btw? And whoch one has the fastest cooldown time ? Would be awesome to know 😊
An re edit of this video to include some of the new sensors like the fp1e would be great
Yeah, I would love to re-visit! Time time time! :-D
My FP2 has a cooldown of under 20 seconds, You need to set up zones correctly in the app and add entrances and exits, which I suspect was not done, but overall this has been a quite informative video.
Thanks!
@makeitworktech I have an update, after playing around with some settings and zones I have successfully got the timeout to about one second.
What is a cooldown time?
@@barygol you can enter the room immediately after it turns off the lights and it will turn them on again. If that was your question?
@@ironcrafter54 I always read about cooldown time with motion sensors and I didn't know what it meant.
Hello there! Thanks for the great analysis, could you please take a deeper look at the MTG275-ZB-RL, as it plugs directly to the mains and has the internal relay, it looks like a greate device for some usefull automations with great espouse approval as it's pretty and would reduce the amount of holes we make on our walls and ceilings .
Great reviews. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Do update the spreadsheet for this Pre holidays. Plan to buy in November.
Remarkable. I was waiting for this for some time and might go for EP lite once they r in stock.
One thing that I've been meaning to ask u for some time now, is how you fixed those speakers on the shelf upside down? Creative speakers, aren't they? I have the same and been thinking of a clean way to do it like u did but out of ideas... 😊
This is the video I was looking for. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Thank you for taking the effort to make this video. 👍
Great video you clearly put a lot of effort into this.. I bought the EP1 when it first came out when the only real competiion was from Aqara. I bought it mainly to support Lewis, it is good to know that it stands up well to the competiion now that there are much more options on the market. You have presuaded me that I should also get the EP Lite.
Thanks for the trust and support! 🙏🏻
You won't regret the Lite! Super nice little device!
Great review, thanks for taking the time. What would have made it even better was if we had bookmarks for the video included so I can rewatch reviews for particular sensors
I did add the bookmarks - do they show for you?
@@MakeItWorkTech YES!!!! Thanks a million
Very good video, congratulations, what integration do you use to see the details of the devices' functions? thank you
Thanks! Using the Zigbee2MQTT add-on in Home Assistant
Fantastic video. Soo much detail. Can anyone recommend a small batch 3D printing service in the UK which will accept thin walled models like this one? Would like to get the Hilink but don't have a 3d printer.
Great video! Thank you for all the research that went into this.
Awesome video. Too bad not much in the way of Zwave yet
Yeah, I didn't see any on the market but I hope some will pop up
Hi, I have a question please.
I'll start to play with this also and I have the ATHOM PS01 in my shopping list already.
The question is, do I one in each room of the house or with the ATHOM PS01 I can set diferent rooms?
Thanks
You need one sensor in each room for best performance
Super job Erin. I think the pet detection was mostly not detecting small pets and getting a false human triggers. One of the challanges with mmwave detectors is false triggers with small movements of curtains or plants in a slight breeze, air conditioner or fan air movement. This can be some of the false triggers or ghosting people see. Most of these can be solved by sensor positioning and sensitivity settings. But many folks just want to stick it in a hidden location and have it work out of the box. But reality requires tinkering.
If you are not too sick of mmwave, would like to see the capability and ease of use of the multi- zone versions. And maybe some cool automations!!
It will interesting to update the review with Apollo MSR-2 and Screek 1MS
I don't think that will happen for a while, but will do a dedicated video for Apollo
This is an awesome review of the different models on the market - although I feel a bit of prejudice for being a ZHA user lol
I would add that you could have used actual rounded values for the prices, instead of $$$ for price ranges. For instance, going from $9 to $40 to idk-how-expensive is quite a difference (specially when you consider the Athom as a "good for the price" when you consider the biggest addition is a PIR sensor, comparing with the cheaper Tuya ones.
Nice video, very informative.
But you need to do a bass-cut on your mic, its overpowered and doesnt sound good!
Makes my subwoofer go hmmmmmmm. (Which isnt good)
Great bit of work. Almost all my rooms have ceiling fans, how is this technology going to handle this. I noticed you said, the Tuya MTG275-ZB-RL had a shield range to ignore close objects, so if ceiling mounted I hope the fans can be ignored. True? Any others have shield range, or can min range or the gate threshold setting achieve the same effect?
Another great video! thanks Aaron
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Thanks for including the group shot at 0:30. I didn't realise that these devices need USB power. I don't have plug outlets where I want to place the sensors. So I guess that rules out mmWave sensors for me and I should look for something else.
They are starting to come out with battery powered mmWave sensors, I've seen a few pop up recently
Hey thanks for this video. I started looking into these for fall detection for my grandmother. I would love to hear your thoughts on the Aquara sensor. Also some of your links are dead for the ones you recommended here.
Awesome video, you got a new subscriber, good job!
Thanks for subbing!
Love the LD2410 for the huge versatility on the move and still energy and all the gate configurations. How do you feel it compares with the LD2450? Thanks and great video!
The LD2450 can track multiple targets but it has trouble with still targets. I believe, the HA community is still waiting for full LD2450 support. With the LD2410 users have been eliminating false triggers by using the Radar Engineering Mode and fine tuning the gates. It's been a game changer for sure!
I have the ZY-M100-L but in wifi form. I bought it to play with because of its form factor. I found you can power it with 12VDC which you can get from downlight transformers, which bypasses the horrifying parts of the sensor. Having said this, I’ve found the ‘on’ latency to be a few seconds. I can walk into the middle of the room before my light switches on (or the app registers that I’m there as well). It’s far slower than my FP2, but has less ghosting issues.
My question, there was an offhand comment about response time, but couldn’t really determine which was best in this instance. Which one was fastest to reliably pick up detection? Hoping to be able to have something switch on as I first enter the room!
Thanks heaps for pulling all this together! There are a few I hadn’t heard of that I’m really keen to try out!
I was thinking of putting some motion detectors powered by AC on the ceiling to turn on the lights on the corridor. But one requirement is that it does it fast. You don't recommend de ZY-M100-L for this task?
I searched for AC powered PIR sensors but didn't find any.
@@barygol steer clear of this sensor. It’s sketchy at best. There’s no way you should ever power it with 110/240v. It wouldn’t comply with any local standard and is a recipe for a fire. You can power it with 12v if you wire it in after the power circuitry, which is marginally better. Having said that, I’ve found it’s pretty slow. Not sure if it’s just the wifi version or not. At the moment I’m thinking of getting one of the usbc powered ones (ep1/ep1 lite/apollo), gutting a regular downlight and using that for the case. Then I can use POE with a USB adapter like the Ubiquiti INS-3AF-USB to power it. That way I’m not messing with line voltage, it has over current protection and it’s easily replaceable with other devices down the track.
Disclaimer, I’ve not tried this, it could be fundamentally flawed and I don’t know yet 😅
@@pretenda ok thanks for the advice. I will continue with the search. I might look into ZWave or 433 MHz sensors.
I read last week that Shelly released a small motion sensor with Bluetooth
Awesome job Aaron! You put a lot of work into this and it shows. I think this should be the go-to for anyone considering MM Wave sensors. I'm still waiting for the EP light to come back in stock, so that's going to be my choice. As always, thanks for sharing and for all your help!
Thanks Scott! It was a fun one!
Really good guide, just what I needed! Thank you!
Where can I buy the animated led display seen on your desktop? Guessing it's programmable!?
I actually made that! Here's the video. Yeah it's programmable
ruclips.net/video/aNpBO0BQZnM/видео.htmlsi=uSmShGSKBPQPJ0zY
@@MakeItWorkTech Cool, I'll build one then! 😎
@@kenthhagstrom have fun! Try WLED if you haven't before
Can you share a table list on your homepage? Thx
I know you prefer Z2M, but wondering if there are any specific models that have less functionality in ZHA or should be avoided if we use ZHA.
I actually prefer ZHA, but all of them have less functionality in ZHA than Z2M unfortunately
@@MakeItWorkTechactually, it appears the Sonoff exposes a motion sensor to ZHA (but not Z2M apparently as per your review)
@@theattorney6072 yeah, but the motion sensor doesn't do anything, so it's kind of like a dead entity. Not sure why it's even exposed 🤔
@@MakeItWorkTech Thx. Don't you think it may become exposed later through an update ? Considering the look of the sensor, it makes sense that it has a motion sensor.
@@theattorney6072 yeah I does look like it might have one. Maybe I'll take mine apart and check
I'd like a "So your going to make your home smart" video. You choose a system that has thread/matter and whatever other routers you'd need.... the smart bulbs, wall switches, blinds, sensors, etc. A best bang for the buck with future proofing system... With an itemized list that includes MSRP prices. - that's what I want in a video from you, or Paul Hibbert, or somebody, anybody. Please!
Noted!
Wow I'm surprised you didn't like the FP1, I've tried a few of the ones you've listed (no name black box, one of the other tuyas, and the sonoff) and it's the only one that actually detected consistently, but maybe I'll have to look into the other recs now (especially the athom and eplite). Apollo looks very promising too!
I'm curious whether testing these all at once might have affected the results; if they're all sending 24 GHz etc waves around, you're almost certainly going to get some interference
Yeah, the Apollo is pretty awesome!
I tested them all one at a time (the others were powered off) and saw no difference, so hopefully no interference.
@@MakeItWorkTech oh that makes sense, glad to hear the rest were off just in case!
Does anyone know where a case can be purchased for the HiLink LD2410 Kit for those of us without 3d printers?
Amazing work here! Thoughts on the Tuya ZY-ML100-L. Really liking this one, but any concerns it would need to be pulled of the ceiling for resetting or maintenance? I have a very small space above my ceiling and would be a mini nightmare to get this back out.
I am pretty sure the ceiling mounted sensor (Tuya M100-1) needs an electrical box since it residential AC. If you install power to a round electrical box and mount the sensor to a round coverplate you could access it by removing two screws. Perhaps this seems like a lateral move but I think it is better because less force is needed and there is less risk of drywall damage.
I think you need to put it in an electrical box
It appears that the Sonoff presence sensor has also a PIR sensor exposed to ZHA. Could you p'ease confirm this ?
Great comparison video. I just bought the linknlink emotion Radar sensor. This works even when hidden inside a cupboard. Is this also the case for mmwave sensors or do they need to be in the open
Thanks! Probably something I should have tested. I know the first two work from behind a door
this new grafitti one grabs my attention. its 13 bucks has pir and mmwave.