I would have pulled and replaced the starter, put it all back together, tried starting it, click, click, clik, yelled the F word and thrown a wrench across the garage. Thanks for the lesson.
first, check fuses, next, check remove clean all terminal ends, 3 rd, chuck wobly.. back in 1973, i learnt, cables, earths, corrode. so now i paint, grease, oil, protect them..posative earth cars were better.. 1800,s.
I first checked if I was getting power to the starter (obvious if you are hearing clicking though), then I might use jumper cables from the battery to the starter and see if it functions. This is more diy though, but a quick test of the starter. If it works, you know to look else where. You know the signal wire is good with the clicking, so really its battery, battery connection, or wiring.
65? You're just a damn kid!😂 I'm coming up behind you, fast! I'm turning 40 in December and I'm still learning and trying to retain a lot if information. My father who just turned 65 once told me about working with drywall compound that if you can't get it right, the hell with it. Get out of it. Let it dry. Cone back tomorrow and sand it, and hit it again. I remembered that as I was doing some drywall in my own house. There is a lesson in that for all of us in all aspects though. It's that in our obsession to get it done or to make it look the best today or succeed TODAY, sometimes it is best to just say "the hell with it" and take a step back, or just take a break until tomorrow when we are rested and/or refreshed and ready to give it another shot. Sometimes doing nothing is the best course of action. Might seem counter intuitive. But if you're making mistakes and getting frustrated today, you're work is going to suffer until you are ready to focus and do your best again.
I changed a starter on a 78 Pont Catalina in the snow, because I thought it was bad. didn't fix it. Towed to a local shop, he called before I got home, it was the ground cable. charged me $15, I was very happy with his work.
The sad part is that there are any number of shops out there who'd throw a starter on it, discover the corroded cable, and then charge the customer for both 'repairs'. Customer would get a substandard starter and shade tree cables... At a premium price of course!. It's always a kick to watch a real technician at work!
You are one the very few honest-to-a-fault mechanics out there who will take responsibility for a misdiagnosis and wear the cost of a new starter. (although that's very rare at SMA) We all know that often, especially dealerships, just shoot the parts canon at a car and charge through the nose for each part. (and that car often ends up at Eric's place)
There was one time I was helping out a fellow traveler on the road because their car would not start. I swapped out the battery (either one I had in the trunk, or the one in my car - for definitive diagnosis purposes) & cleaned (battery wire brush) the battery terminals & cables and the car started. I popped their battery back into their car & it started right up. All that was to say that the corrosion between the battery posts & cables caused enough resistance to prevent the car from starting. Ever since then I am always suspicious of battery to starter connections as a source of high resistance. Nowadays I carry a meter in the car!
So, I guess it's story time. This one involves a girlfriend, a 73 Camaro and corroded side post battery cables. No crank, no nothing as I remember. Unscrewed the battery cables from the battery and lots of corrosion found. Cleaned up the cables as best I could without a brush and reconnected the cables to the battery. There had been zero indication that I had corroded battery terminals. That no crank was the very first indication of trouble. The girlfriend made it home!
@@thomasshaffer8547 Yeah, back in the day you would use a knife or screwdriver to shine up the cables & terminals where they contacted each other, just scrape until the metal was shiny again.
work for the AA in the Uk, its amazing how many breakdowns I go to that have just had starters or alternators fitted, when all it was is a poor cable. what's also amazing is the amount of qualified people fixing this stuff that don't know how to do a voltage drop.
My brother in law recently had nothing when he turned the key on a 2008 F150 5.4. He told me that the starter was a few months old and the battery was good. I told him not to assume either was good. I also told him to test before buying because it is stupid to put out $300 for a starter when it doesn’t fix the issue. He put a new starter on and it still did the same. I told him he could have a bad negative cable. He said it “looked good”. (You can imagine what I said). I talked him through a voltmeter and test light test and indeed it was the negative cable. He ordered a new one and his 18 year old son installed it. Fired right up after cable install.
People who don't know about how cars work don't know exactly what to look for when something goes wrong. They should take a class in automotive technology, or read a book (or two) about how cars work, in addition to watching South Main Auto.
I love the way you showed how to do active drop testing even when you don't want to turn the key when intake is off. The common excuse by pros is that it is too much trouble to do drop testing when you can't get at the terminals without major surgery. Once they do that, they feel committed. Time and again you show how drop testing doesn't need to be a time waster, you do it quickly and efficiently. The trick is to select a few quick, reliable screening tests and move on with your day if those tests check out.
Eric has learned- ALWAYS pay heed to that little voice in your head when it starts telling you something! It is your subconscious trying to save you from your EGO! Another great video Eric!
Eric....as a lifetime electronics troubleshooter, I often smile at some of your explanations. Certainly not the way I would explain it, but you are demonstrating techniques to people watching you troubleshoot. Your explanations are excellent. When I have been called upon to teach people techniques, I am talking to folks who have an in depth understanding of the circuitry involved. My explanations would only serve to confuse your followers. I have watched your videos since day one, & I am always intrigued by your explanations , that are just as if we were all standing beside you. My God ! You provide intensive learning for your followers, without sounding like a college professor, or like some of the nitwits that I have come across that have NO idea what they are talking about. Ivan & Scanner Danner are also good, but Scanner Danner speaks too rapidly , & occasionally misses a link in the diagnosis. I mean that he omits a link in the diagnosis chain that is of no consequence to people who have electrical knowledge, but may be confusing to those who are just starting to learn. This is an observation , NOT a criticism ! Further, it is not a regular event in his explanations. Eric, technical schools need people like yourself & your colleagues to bring their students to your & your colleagues level of expertise. Carry on Sir.... first class trouble shooting techniques await your followers. Cheers! from the wind swept Prairies of Alberta Canada.
I need a mechanic like Eric or Rainman Ray in Calgary. I know a dangerous amount for an amateur, but nothing beats years of experience. If nothing else, I know I won't be taking any short cuts on this 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 rebuild when it comes to the aftermarket electrical upgrades for the storm chasing gear!
As someone who has worked on Hondas for 30 years first thing i seen was that junky ass battery terminal. Hondas dont like those. Ive got bitten by those before. Just today actually with one with a turn over no start. Spent an hour on it before realizing it had that same junky ass ternimal. Gotta remember to start with the simple stuff first. Even i forget. Great video!
Between Eric O. and @RainmanRaysRepairs, I've learned the value of checking power and grounds thoroughly! Very grateful to both for sharing their work and knowledge online!
For everyone crapping on mechanics who have mistakenly replaced starters in the past, MOST of the time, it is an intermittent fault. It’s easy enough to diagnose properly when then starter has failed completely, but try it when it only fails once every 3rd Sunday when the old lady is trying to go to church.
I know that the standards for my repairs are different that a paid mechanic. A paid mechanic has to fix the failing part every time, or at least most of the time. Come-backs are costly for the customer and the shop, even if it only to the shop's reputation. Replacing serviceable but worn parts both makes the shop money and avoids unrelated/coincidental failures. For failure-averse customers it's arguably money well spent.
I'm not a particularly skilled mechanic, but I had a situation like this.... and if you are in the dark, the corroded spot will light right up so you can see it.
Fun fact: On those K24 hondoo motors, you can actually pull the starter mounting bolts and drop the starter down from underneath the motor. Then remove the solenoid wires. Saves a ton of time by not having to remove the intake plenum. It’s less of a PITA, in my experience. Great diagnostic video!
That era hondooo is the only manufacturer that still made a starter with very easily replaceable brushes for $13. Typical telltale sign that brushes are going bad is excessive current draw when starting. It makes it seem as if the battery is weaknor going bad because if you put a jump pack on it will seem to crank normal because you've basically doubled the cranking amps available to the starter.
Picture worth a thousand words, or in this case, a video. You've coached us on the value of doing voltage drop tests and this is indisputable evidence of why it's important. Thanks for bringing us along. Part 2?
This was very interesting and informative. I never would have thought of checking for voltage drop first! I've replaced many starters and was lucky to fall within that 95% chance odds. Thanks for sharing this, Eric!
That starter in that location with that symptom.... THAT would of caught a lot of folks... including me... and I troubleshoot multiple cars a day, taking pride in being spot on! Thanks for keeping us sharp Eric!
We do put a ton of starters on Hondas and Toyotas but those braided ground straps on Hondas also do fall apart in our rusty areas anyway besides all the regular stuff like what happened in todays video but also don’t know why people do such poor wire and cable repairs as they cause so many problems down the road and sometimes not far down the road
I find that on toyotas, the usual starter problem is the "L" shaped contacts in the solenoid. I made some from some copper parts in about 1990, and told my friend at the dealer, who thought that was funny cause toyota sells them separately, and cheap. Now, they are even cheaper on Amazon. It's like $7 to fix them, and very easy. Honda starters, however, seem to go through brushes.
Exactly. I've had people look at me strange when I take an hour just replacing terminal ends with copper lugs and marine terminals instead of the cheap garbage that would actually get me back on the road in 10 minutes. If you're going to do it do it right and don't have to do it again. Between the heat shrink, crimping copper terminal, and then filling the remainder of it with solder I've never had one fail.
I have a 2003 Element with the same engine. Had a bad original starter after 10 years and 150K… shop replaced the starter with an aftermarket… which was bad out of the box. The shop did NOT pull the intake when they needed to replace the starter again the next day… doing that they destroyed the wiring harness to the knock sensor which is also right there. Didn’t tell me about that damage. A few years later when I needed yet another starter as the aftermarket one was dead my new non dealer Honda mechanic needed to call in a few favors to get a full harness to splice in the correct wires and connectors into the knock sensor. With time and corrosion it was throwing codes… fixed now with a Honda OEM starter. 211,000 miles on my 21 year old Element. Still love it. Best car I have ever owned.
Great testing Erik. I might have to add that to my starter R&Rs. Voltage drop like that takes seconds with it all apart! Some shops would throw 10 starters at it, THEN send it to you!
i would have burn through 2 starters before getting to the battery terminals, not anymore thanks to you MR O, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Within the last couple of weeks, I replaced the alternator in a 1993 Chevy C1500. The original alternator was a two-wire. One wire was for the positive output of the alternator. The other small-gauge wire was the alternator's primary coil exciter feed from the idiot light on the dashboard. Replacement alternator #1 works for fifteen minutes before going dark and back to battery voltage. Same thing with replacement alternator #2 and #3. What? For #4 I go all nuts with voltage drop testing. I test each and every segment of grounding cable and positive starter and alternator cable. It all checks out. Finally, after a butt ton of Internet research, I find a data sheet for replacement alternators that states, "The primary coil wire should not exceed 1.0 amps." Well, mine is up around 1.5 amps. And this is with the old-school incandescent dash idiot light in the mix already. I source a selection of big 10 watt resistors to get the current for the exciter wire down to below 1.0 amps. And with everything set up with alligator clip leads, I take off to the auto parts store to walk them through the setup so if I fry alternator #4, they were participants. Standing there in front of the engine bay, the kid clerk asks me about the condition of the cables. I state I voltage drop tested all of them. He gets this funny look in his eye. So, I do a parking lot electrical clinic concerning voltage drop testing with a multimeter for the kid. Boy! Did his eyes light up! I told him, "You master voltage drop testing, and you'll be able to solve 90% of all electrical problems. With my add-on resistor in the alternator's primary coil exciter feed, the truck idled in the parts store's parking lot for an hour without blowing alternator #4. The current on the exciter wire was down to 0.2 amps. I'm currently 2,000 miles away from home. The 0.2 amps is too low for the battery idiot light in the dash to illuminate. This will be fine for the drive home. I'll just need to keep an eye on the dash volt meter. Once home, I'll use a 4-decade variable resistance box to dial in the necessary resistor to keep the primary exciter circuit as low as possible and still have the dash idiot light illuminate.
1.5A? That's 20W. The dash bulb shouldn't be that high. 1.5-2W. Either the bulb (not sure how) is wrong or there is some other problem. 0.2A is ~2.5W which would be really. Right even for the right bulb.
@@TheBenjammin The importance of voltage drop testing... The issues with the alternators wasn't that they were being overworked with bad resistance-loaded power and ground cables.
@@TEDodd I agree. But, until I get back home and have the time and the tools to dig into it further, it remains what it is... Short-to-power somewhere in the dash? Gonna take some more investigation, for sure, once home.
@@russellstephan6844 I'd be inclined to just disconnect the bulb and it's wires completely then. Something that broken could cause other problems. It's not working as a warning light anyway. Connect the excitation wire to the batt terminal, basic 1 wire configuration.
The older side Post Terminals on Chevy Trucks would often Corrode underneath the Terminals, everything outside looked clean but it would not allow vehicle to start, my engine just shut off at a Traffic Light. A mechanic that I knew pulled up beside me and knew what the problem was, an education for me...
As always, much respect to Eric for taking the time and finding the issue. As for me, I would still recommend a new starter to the customer since they are very prone to failure and since I had the intake off anyway.
I learnt this exact lesson at the age of 15, it was May 1st 1972, and the very first day of my official employment at the garage of a local haulage company after leaving school. The truck we were to fix was a 4 year old Ford D Series, it presented all the signs of a bad starter motor. However, before we dived in to fit new parts, the old school mechanic I was working under did a voltage drop test. Sure enough we found a full 12 volts where there should have been none. Turned out to be a poor connection on the common earth point on the chassis, this was hidden away right behind the battery. After a through cleaning, and replacing a corroded cable connection the truck fired right up. That "voltage drop lesson" stuck with me throughout my 53 years with the same company, and I myself have taught it to many new apprentice mechanics, and many an old one too. I'm retired now, but the company still owns that same old 1969 Ford D Series, it was the companies very first 'brand new' truck. Many thanks. David in the UK.
I fixed photocopiers before I retired, so I always had a bit of time to think over the customer complaint while driving to the site. That thinking led me astray many times, fixing what I thought was the problem, not necessarily the problem the machine actually had.
Voltage drop can trick anyone when its hidden or even in plain view. So many times a headlamp was dim for no reason and the connection looked normal,,, yet she was sizzling with heat from high resistance. A simple removal and cleaning or fix of the bad terminal and it was good again. Good test there Eric using the meter for a confirmed voltage drop.
I would have checked for corrosion exactly like Eric....after watching Eric the wizard's video. Eric is a wizard, having paid attention to all of his mentors and having a ton of common sense.
I carried a 4 foot tubafour in my '67 Ford wagon for years. The cable lug on the starter would lose contact in winter temps. Key on, dash lights were bright. All accessories worked. Key to crank, not a sound. Pop the hood and poke the lug on the starter, fired right up. Toss the tubafour in back and drive on.
I love to share my experience with a customer telling me he needed a starter. I found voltage drop on the negative cable and replaced the cable from the battery to the block with the negative cable on my 25 foot long jumper cables. I then went inside the car and turned the key to the sound of the engine starting i then checked the cable ends and found the end that was attached to the block had corroded so bad that the plastic cover on the cable was the only thing that supported 2 inches of that cable. I had to remove almost 3 inches of the cover on that negative cable before i found the nice copper color i was looking for. I replaced the $14 cable and bolt instead of the price of that new starter which at that time was about $80 my price. Good video as always Sir!
No, I’ll freely admit. I assumed it was the starter too. I’ll also admit I would’ve checked the battery cables for loose connections on the battery and any corrosion, but I wouldn’t have thought to look under that tape. Well, at least until I saw the smoke. This is a good lesson and not to make too many assumptions and jump on them blindly. I have to do some work on my defender tomorrow and it’s either replacing the coolant sensor or it’s a bad ground so I’m gonna replace the coolant sender because honestly they are cheap easy to access and only take a minute to do. Plus I don’t wanna screw with the grounds unless I really have to. If you want folding utility knife that opens really easy with one hand I suggest the Klein folding utility knife. It just pushed the button, flick your wrist, and it opens with no effort. Then push the button again and it folds down with just gravity.
I am 100% sure I would have replaced the starter. And then maybe I would have figured out the wires were bad after I got lucky and smelled the smoke that I probably would not have found. Awesome video…again. Luv me sum SMA video
To be honest, i probably would have replaced it twice because i would have done the same preliminary check of trying to start it and seeing if the lights dim. So after the replacement starter didn't work, i would have assumed (we all know what that means) the replacement was defective and swapped it a second time. You went the smarter and less laborious route. Good find.
So, in an unrelated, slightly dumb story. Me and my father were going up north from Dutchess County to Buffalo for a family event. My father stopped off for us to take a pit stop and happened to coincidentally pulled over in your town and drove by your shop. I explained I've been watching you on RUclips for more than 5 years I think now. We drove by your shop and I looked and saw and drove down the road you always go down. It was interesting. Would have stopped off but 5pm on Friday and knowing how you feel about non customers just dropping by or calling without work needing to be done. I opted against it. I opened my mobile mechanic business modeled sort of how you do things but with my own twist. Thank you for doing a sometimes thankless job just to keep us educated and entertained.
Had that same problem on my 96 Rav4, but i didn't have the click click. I thought it was my alternator and with family who have worked on cars going back to the stone age; we discovered that the positive side corroded from the inside out. Problem solved, nope a week later at 9pm on a dark country road, the car judt died going around a corner. Called my cousin and he thought the engine went. He jumped the car and she fired right up. Alternator bad, think God no. It was the battery. Replaced it I did and not had a problem since. Great video. Funny, it wasn't the starter nor the alternator. Ot was the battery 😊
95 T-10 Blazer, turn key, loud click. No crank, no start. I replaced the starter twice before giving up and having it towed to a garage. Long story short, the fuel pressure regulator inside the intake manifold that fed the spider injectors had rotted through and filled a cylinder with fuel, and hydro-locked the engine.
Not sure if this counts on new cars, but we had a car that would turn over but not start till you let off the key. I say we, I was helping my Dad many moons ago. Anyways, best we could figure was the starter was drawin so much juice, it had none left to give a strong spark and why it would fire off just as you let off the key. Upshot was a rebuilt starter and worked good, point being, we didn't know squat about how to test for that and only figured it out by using our ears and grey matter and deduction on an old car with very few gizmo's. These new cars, boy... Glad we have Eric to show us the ropes. Thanks for the great vid!
Easy peeze, try drivability in a new car and you will get into inputs and outputs. Many mechanics will just throw parts at a car because of the variables.
Corrosion & water can sure travel along wiring. I repair/install TV satellite and cable coaxial cables. I have found corroded connectors with up to SIX FEET of corroded coaxial cable. Every time I find it, I show the customer why they have no TV. It amazes them every time.
This is why I always do a full visual inspection of the problem area before beginning my diagnosis, would have saved so much time here. Never don't untape the harness first.
Thanks again Eric for teaching all of us DA’s out here how to do something properly. I, like several others people in the comment section, would have changed that starter only to find out I was wrong…. Not that I’m gonna be changing a starter on a Honda or anything for that matter. I still change my own oil and brakes but that’s about it. I’m getting to old to do that stuff……
After about 3+ years of learning this from channels such as soutmain Auto scanner Dan western truck & tractor repair. Knowledge is power thanks to channels like this. Much appreciated
Lesson learned right there.its hard to not jump right to the fix when the flat rate clock is ticking.but it could save me buying a starter .I have to tell myself to slow down to go fast.
Come on Eric...I doubt anyone here would question your troubleshooting techniques!! If you didn't start there, no one would have, thanks for another lesson!
Good find and demonstration. Plus, you saved the customer lots of money. That's worth the price of admission and why these vids of yours are so important.
I always add an extra ground cable on Honda charging or starter jobs as well. The ground goes from battery to rad support, fender area stock, run one over to the engine block also. As you've shown in many videos, can't have enough grounds😂 Good find, depending on the mileage though, with customer permission a fresh Honda starter while you're in there would be a good idea, let the customer decide.
I had the exact same problem after I replaced the connection on my old F-150 and I even forgot to check it when it wouldn't crank. I ended up cutting out the junk crimp connection and a little wired and got some good marine (I live 30 miles from the GOM) solder lugs and a good lead terminal. Been way better ever since.
Ya know Eric if you save one of us from the dreaded "A" hole status you have done a great job today. Learned a long time ago find where its good and work it to the bad. Nice repair. Thanks once again for sharing your skill and wisdom with us.
I ALWAYS check the battery cables for a starter first. And by always, I mean never. I also always check the battery cables after replacing the starter, alternator, battery, fuse box, starting relays, and ignition assembly.
Agree totally, as an electronics engineer. Just lore current with a starter motor. Reminds me of the saying; Just 'cause its shiny and new, doesn't mean it works properly.
Eric (or is it EPIC) - as usual, 10-min master class in diagnostics - all of us can use forever going forward. Truthfully, I would have thought "starter" looked at how hard - and REPLACED THE CAR.. Fixed. (LOL)
You CAN get to the starter from underneath on a lift , but the connections are out of sight and you need a mirror. NOT a criticism because the last two starters I did on the 2.4L I used the same 'take off the intake manifold' approach.
Kind of new here,;even watching awhile and am impressed by your thorough, methodical way of diagnosis and. Cleaning before it all goes back together. Interesting how you saved the woman the cost of a starter. I've done my own work since high school and because I'm cheap,I will check and recheck everything before I bite the bullet and by the expensive part. I should clarify,I'm not cheap just thrifty. Thanks for making these video's 😊
I worked in a shop where another mechanic (no, not me) replaced the starter twice and was about to do it again before I showed him the voltage drop in the cable. Parts shop was thankful.
Eric we need closure. We need part 2! Voltage drop is my favorite troubleshooting method. It tells the tale. Nice troubleshooting. Cover those damn intake holes! Lol
I had a similar situation in a 2007 Civic, only intermittent. I checked all the connections, then tapped on the starter with a long extension. Each time I struck the starter it came to life. The starter was junk. I was able to change the starter with the intake on. The top bolt was stupid tight. I enjoyed the video, and learned something this morning.
Great video - I was hoping you might do another proof by running a jumper cable (or other known good heavy gauge cable) from the starter to the battery terminal, and repeating the voltage drop test. But not sure how practical it is to do so on that car.
I would have pulled and replaced the starter, put it all back together, tried starting it, click, click, clik, yelled the F word and thrown a wrench across the garage. Thanks for the lesson.
Yup, and then back to advance auto parts to give them their POS non-functional starter back to them
first, check fuses, next, check remove clean all terminal ends, 3 rd, chuck wobly.. back in 1973, i learnt, cables, earths, corrode. so now i paint, grease, oil, protect them..posative earth cars were better.. 1800,s.
LOL I am extremely accomplished at the last two, except i get well beyond the "f" word when i get up on step.
I first checked if I was getting power to the starter (obvious if you are hearing clicking though), then I might use jumper cables from the battery to the starter and see if it functions. This is more diy though, but a quick test of the starter. If it works, you know to look else where. You know the signal wire is good with the clicking, so really its battery, battery connection, or wiring.
Yep and then bought another new starter…….
That voltage drop test was awesome. Never did that before. Like they say, never too old to learn something new, even at 65.
That's is what is taught nowadays by instructors like ScannerDanner.
65? You're just a damn kid!😂 I'm coming up behind you, fast! I'm turning 40 in December and I'm still learning and trying to retain a lot if information. My father who just turned 65 once told me about working with drywall compound that if you can't get it right, the hell with it. Get out of it. Let it dry. Cone back tomorrow and sand it, and hit it again.
I remembered that as I was doing some drywall in my own house. There is a lesson in that for all of us in all aspects though. It's that in our obsession to get it done or to make it look the best today or succeed TODAY, sometimes it is best to just say "the hell with it" and take a step back, or just take a break until tomorrow when we are rested and/or refreshed and ready to give it another shot.
Sometimes doing nothing is the best course of action. Might seem counter intuitive. But if you're making mistakes and getting frustrated today, you're work is going to suffer until you are ready to focus and do your best again.
I remember a wise man who once said, "plan your work, and work the plan". Thanks for showing this. Don't jump to conclusions.
Thats what Eric just got through saying, Thanks for repeating. You got 5 clicks from it
For some reason I'm really hoping for a part 2, even though it wouldn't be anything super exciting, I know.
Part II would be if the starter was also bad. Hope Eric checked it out before calling the customer and quoting just bad wires.
@@MajorMokoto yes a bad starter could have smoked a weak connection.
How hot does a Banchee get?!?
Part 2 would be a junkyard special.
I don't think I have seen him use the big crimping tool on battery cables before.
I changed a starter on a 78 Pont Catalina in the snow, because I thought it was bad. didn't fix it. Towed to a local shop, he called before I got home, it was the ground cable. charged me $15, I was very happy with his work.
The sad part is that there are any number of shops out there who'd throw a starter on it, discover the corroded cable, and then charge the customer for both 'repairs'. Customer would get a substandard starter and shade tree cables... At a premium price of course!. It's always a kick to watch a real technician at work!
My dad taught electrical diagnosis in the army.he said to always check the source of power first.
sad truth
You are one the very few honest-to-a-fault mechanics out there who will take responsibility for a misdiagnosis and wear the cost of a new starter. (although that's very rare at SMA) We all know that often, especially dealerships, just shoot the parts canon at a car and charge through the nose for each part. (and that car often ends up at Eric's place)
I was expecting "This cable is hot, but not as hot as Mrs O." Thanks for the videos. Stay safe out there.
Love it when you see the magic smoke out of the cable!
The smoke test was the final straw😢😢
Starters won't work if you let the smoke out of them.
@@rickn8or Cables don't work too well when they're full of the green crusties too! There's your problem lady :)
There was one time I was helping out a fellow traveler on the road because their car would not start. I swapped out the battery (either one I had in the trunk, or the one in my car - for definitive diagnosis purposes) & cleaned (battery wire brush) the battery terminals & cables and the car started. I popped their battery back into their car & it started right up. All that was to say that the corrosion between the battery posts & cables caused enough resistance to prevent the car from starting. Ever since then I am always suspicious of battery to starter connections as a source of high resistance. Nowadays I carry a meter in the car!
Good idea.
So, I guess it's story time. This one involves a girlfriend, a 73 Camaro and corroded side post battery cables. No crank, no nothing as I remember. Unscrewed the battery cables from the battery and lots of corrosion found. Cleaned up the cables as best I could without a brush and reconnected the cables to the battery. There had been zero indication that I had corroded battery terminals. That no crank was the very first indication of trouble. The girlfriend made it home!
@@thomasshaffer8547 Yeah, back in the day you would use a knife or screwdriver to shine up the cables & terminals where they contacted each other, just scrape until the metal was shiny again.
work for the AA in the Uk, its amazing how many breakdowns I go to that have just had starters or alternators fitted, when all it was is a poor cable. what's also amazing is the amount of qualified people fixing this stuff that don't know how to do a voltage drop.
My brother in law recently had nothing when he turned the key on a 2008 F150 5.4. He told me that the starter was a few months old and the battery was good. I told him not to assume either was good. I also told him to test before buying because it is stupid to put out $300 for a starter when it doesn’t fix the issue. He put a new starter on and it still did the same. I told him he could have a bad negative cable. He said it “looked good”. (You can imagine what I said). I talked him through a voltmeter and test light test and indeed it was the negative cable. He ordered a new one and his 18 year old son installed it. Fired right up after cable install.
An 18 year old son is one of the best tools you'll ever have.
@@fixerofthings HAHA YEP! They still have a back and legs that operate!
People who don't know about how cars work don't know exactly what to look for when something goes wrong. They should take a class in automotive technology, or read a book (or two) about how cars work, in addition to watching South Main Auto.
Mr. O shows us that sometimes letting the smoke out of the wire helps speed up the troubleshooting. Great video.
I love the way you showed how to do active drop testing even when you don't want to turn the key when intake is off. The common excuse by pros is that it is too much trouble to do drop testing when you can't get at the terminals without major surgery. Once they do that, they feel committed. Time and again you show how drop testing doesn't need to be a time waster, you do it quickly and efficiently. The trick is to select a few quick, reliable screening tests and move on with your day if those tests check out.
You are so right Eric I would of blamed the starter !!
My electrical diagnostics has improved greatly from watching your videos. Thanks for the lessons in proper diag
Eric has learned- ALWAYS pay heed to that little voice in your head when it starts telling you something! It is your subconscious trying to save you from your EGO! Another great video Eric!
Eric....as a lifetime electronics troubleshooter, I often smile at some of your explanations. Certainly not the way I would explain it, but you are demonstrating techniques to people watching you troubleshoot. Your explanations are excellent. When I have been called upon to teach people techniques, I am talking to folks who have an in depth understanding of the circuitry involved. My
explanations would only serve to confuse your followers. I have watched your videos since day one,
& I am always intrigued by your explanations , that are just as if we were all standing beside you.
My God ! You provide intensive learning for your followers, without sounding like a college professor, or like some of the nitwits that I have come across that have NO idea what they are talking about. Ivan & Scanner Danner are also good, but Scanner Danner speaks too rapidly , & occasionally
misses a link in the diagnosis. I mean that he omits a link in the diagnosis chain that is of no consequence to people who have electrical knowledge, but may be confusing to those who are just starting to learn. This is an observation , NOT a criticism ! Further, it is not a regular event in his explanations. Eric, technical schools need people like yourself & your colleagues to bring their students to your & your colleagues level of expertise. Carry on Sir.... first class trouble shooting techniques await your followers.
Cheers! from the wind swept Prairies of Alberta Canada.
I need a mechanic like Eric or Rainman Ray in Calgary. I know a dangerous amount for an amateur, but nothing beats years of experience.
If nothing else, I know I won't be taking any short cuts on this 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 rebuild when it comes to the aftermarket electrical upgrades for the storm chasing gear!
That bit making it smoke was the best lol of the day
As someone who has worked on Hondas for 30 years first thing i seen was that junky ass battery terminal. Hondas dont like those. Ive got bitten by those before. Just today actually with one with a turn over no start. Spent an hour on it before realizing it had that same junky ass ternimal. Gotta remember to start with the simple stuff first. Even i forget. Great video!
I thought for sure it was the starter but guess that’s why you do other test. Good job as always Mr O
Eric O uses a new version of the Avoca smoker to find the problem - great lesson for us all
Between Eric O. and @RainmanRaysRepairs, I've learned the value of checking power and grounds thoroughly!
Very grateful to both for sharing their work and knowledge online!
That would have been a cool one to film with the thermal imaging camera.
for sure
For everyone crapping on mechanics who have mistakenly replaced starters in the past, MOST of the time, it is an intermittent fault. It’s easy enough to diagnose properly when then starter has failed completely, but try it when it only fails once every 3rd Sunday when the old lady is trying to go to church.
Facts, people are way too hard on mechanics when it takes a special kind of person to even be one.
I know that the standards for my repairs are different that a paid mechanic.
A paid mechanic has to fix the failing part every time, or at least most of the time. Come-backs are costly for the customer and the shop, even if it only to the shop's reputation. Replacing serviceable but worn parts both makes the shop money and avoids unrelated/coincidental failures. For failure-averse customers it's arguably money well spent.
I'm not a particularly skilled mechanic, but I had a situation like this.... and if you are in the dark, the corroded spot will light right up so you can see it.
Fun fact: On those K24 hondoo motors, you can actually pull the starter mounting bolts and drop the starter down from underneath the motor. Then remove the solenoid wires. Saves a ton of time by not having to remove the intake plenum. It’s less of a PITA, in my experience. Great diagnostic video!
That era hondooo is the only manufacturer that still made a starter with very easily replaceable brushes for $13. Typical telltale sign that brushes are going bad is excessive current draw when starting. It makes it seem as if the battery is weaknor going bad because if you put a jump pack on it will seem to crank normal because you've basically doubled the cranking amps available to the starter.
Picture worth a thousand words, or in this case, a video. You've coached us on the value of doing voltage drop tests and this is indisputable evidence of why it's important. Thanks for bringing us along.
Part 2?
This was very interesting and informative. I never would have thought of checking for voltage drop first! I've replaced many starters and was lucky to fall within that 95% chance odds. Thanks for sharing this, Eric!
Ohh noo...even it is one minute past midnight now I have to stay up and enjoy this SMA :D
That starter in that location with that symptom.... THAT would of caught a lot of folks... including me... and I troubleshoot multiple cars a day, taking pride in being spot on! Thanks for keeping us sharp Eric!
“Who let the Smoke out”….Eric O!😂
white smoke or black smoke?
We do put a ton of starters on Hondas and Toyotas but those braided ground straps on Hondas also do fall apart in our rusty areas anyway besides all the regular stuff like what happened in todays video but also don’t know why people do such poor wire and cable repairs as they cause so many problems down the road and sometimes not far down the road
I find that on toyotas, the usual starter problem is the "L" shaped contacts in the solenoid. I made some from some copper parts in about 1990, and told my friend at the dealer, who thought that was funny cause toyota sells them separately, and cheap. Now, they are even cheaper on Amazon. It's like $7 to fix them, and very easy.
Honda starters, however, seem to go through brushes.
Exactly. I've had people look at me strange when I take an hour just replacing terminal ends with copper lugs and marine terminals instead of the cheap garbage that would actually get me back on the road in 10 minutes. If you're going to do it do it right and don't have to do it again. Between the heat shrink, crimping copper terminal, and then filling the remainder of it with solder I've never had one fail.
Darn it Eric, you let the smoke out of that junk connection. Good troubleshooting once again Eric.
I have a 2003 Element with the same engine. Had a bad original starter after 10 years and 150K… shop replaced the starter with an aftermarket… which was bad out of the box. The shop did NOT pull the intake when they needed to replace the starter again the next day… doing that they destroyed the wiring harness to the knock sensor which is also right there. Didn’t tell me about that damage. A few years later when I needed yet another starter as the aftermarket one was dead my new non dealer Honda mechanic needed to call in a few favors to get a full harness to splice in the correct wires and connectors into the knock sensor. With time and corrosion it was throwing codes… fixed now with a Honda OEM starter. 211,000 miles on my 21 year old Element. Still love it. Best car I have ever owned.
Well, the close-up of the battery terminal crimps sent me into a full belly laugh, so yes, I did enjoy this
Aww! I thought i was going to see soldering on a new battery terminal, a process that always brings out the critical experts on soldering.
Great testing Erik. I might have to add that to my starter R&Rs. Voltage drop like that takes seconds with it all apart! Some shops would throw 10 starters at it, THEN send it to you!
I'm happy that you have done another basic electronics analysis and brought us in to watch it progress. Great work Eric!
i would have burn through 2 starters before getting to the battery terminals, not anymore thanks to you MR O, thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Within the last couple of weeks, I replaced the alternator in a 1993 Chevy C1500. The original alternator was a two-wire. One wire was for the positive output of the alternator. The other small-gauge wire was the alternator's primary coil exciter feed from the idiot light on the dashboard.
Replacement alternator #1 works for fifteen minutes before going dark and back to battery voltage. Same thing with replacement alternator #2 and #3. What?
For #4 I go all nuts with voltage drop testing. I test each and every segment of grounding cable and positive starter and alternator cable. It all checks out.
Finally, after a butt ton of Internet research, I find a data sheet for replacement alternators that states, "The primary coil wire should not exceed 1.0 amps."
Well, mine is up around 1.5 amps. And this is with the old-school incandescent dash idiot light in the mix already. I source a selection of big 10 watt resistors to get the current for the exciter wire down to below 1.0 amps.
And with everything set up with alligator clip leads, I take off to the auto parts store to walk them through the setup so if I fry alternator #4, they were participants.
Standing there in front of the engine bay, the kid clerk asks me about the condition of the cables. I state I voltage drop tested all of them. He gets this funny look in his eye. So, I do a parking lot electrical clinic concerning voltage drop testing with a multimeter for the kid. Boy! Did his eyes light up! I told him, "You master voltage drop testing, and you'll be able to solve 90% of all electrical problems.
With my add-on resistor in the alternator's primary coil exciter feed, the truck idled in the parts store's parking lot for an hour without blowing alternator #4. The current on the exciter wire was down to 0.2 amps.
I'm currently 2,000 miles away from home. The 0.2 amps is too low for the battery idiot light in the dash to illuminate. This will be fine for the drive home. I'll just need to keep an eye on the dash volt meter.
Once home, I'll use a 4-decade variable resistance box to dial in the necessary resistor to keep the primary exciter circuit as low as possible and still have the dash idiot light illuminate.
1.5A? That's 20W. The dash bulb shouldn't be that high. 1.5-2W. Either the bulb (not sure how) is wrong or there is some other problem.
0.2A is ~2.5W which would be really. Right even for the right bulb.
What was the point to that story?
@@TheBenjammin The importance of voltage drop testing... The issues with the alternators wasn't that they were being overworked with bad resistance-loaded power and ground cables.
@@TEDodd I agree. But, until I get back home and have the time and the tools to dig into it further, it remains what it is...
Short-to-power somewhere in the dash? Gonna take some more investigation, for sure, once home.
@@russellstephan6844 I'd be inclined to just disconnect the bulb and it's wires completely then. Something that broken could cause other problems. It's not working as a warning light anyway.
Connect the excitation wire to the batt terminal, basic 1 wire configuration.
Let that smoke out. One of the best test that I have ever seen. Good job.
The older side Post Terminals on Chevy Trucks would often Corrode underneath the Terminals, everything outside looked clean but it would not allow vehicle to start, my engine just shut off at a Traffic Light. A mechanic that I knew pulled up beside me and knew what the problem was, an education for me...
As always, much respect to Eric for taking the time and finding the issue. As for me, I would still recommend a new starter to the customer since they are very prone to failure and since I had the intake off anyway.
I learnt this exact lesson at the age of 15, it was May 1st 1972, and the very first day of my official employment at the garage of a local haulage company after leaving school. The truck we were to fix was a 4 year old Ford D Series, it presented all the signs of a bad starter motor. However, before we dived in to fit new parts, the old school mechanic I was working under did a voltage drop test. Sure enough we found a full 12 volts where there should have been none. Turned out to be a poor connection on the common earth point on the chassis, this was hidden away right behind the battery. After a through cleaning, and replacing a corroded cable connection the truck fired right up. That "voltage drop lesson" stuck with me throughout my 53 years with the same company, and I myself have taught it to many new apprentice mechanics, and many an old one too. I'm retired now, but the company still owns that same old 1969 Ford D Series, it was the companies very first 'brand new' truck.
Many thanks.
David in the UK.
I fixed photocopiers before I retired, so I always had a bit of time to think over the customer complaint while driving to the site. That thinking led me astray many times, fixing what I thought was the problem, not necessarily the problem the machine actually had.
This, everyone.... is the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer. Eric is a true mechanic.
sometimes you wonder how hot a banshee might be for something to be hotter than it
nearly as hot as a 2 dollar pistol
It’s easy to say you know the answer when you already know what the answer is. Keep em in line Eric!!
Thank you for the tip.
That is a very good example of a huge voltage drop.
Voltage drop can trick anyone when its hidden or even in plain view. So many times a headlamp was dim for no reason and the connection looked normal,,, yet she was sizzling with heat from high resistance. A simple removal and cleaning or fix of the bad terminal and it was good again. Good test there Eric using the meter for a confirmed voltage drop.
I would have checked for corrosion exactly like Eric....after watching Eric the wizard's video. Eric is a wizard, having paid attention to all of his mentors and having a ton of common sense.
I carried a 4 foot tubafour in my '67 Ford wagon for years. The cable lug on the starter would lose contact in winter temps. Key on, dash lights were bright. All accessories worked. Key to crank, not a sound. Pop the hood and poke the lug on the starter, fired right up. Toss the tubafour in back and drive on.
the parts cannon lives another day without being fired... great job
I love to share my experience with a customer telling me he needed a starter. I found voltage drop on the negative cable and replaced the cable from the battery to the block with the negative cable on my 25 foot long jumper cables. I then went inside the car and turned the key to the sound of the engine starting i then checked the cable ends and found the end that was attached to the block had corroded so bad that the plastic cover on the cable was the only thing that supported 2 inches of that cable. I had to remove almost 3 inches of the cover on that negative cable before i found the nice copper color i was looking for. I replaced the $14 cable and bolt instead of the price of that new starter which at that time was about $80 my price. Good video as always Sir!
No, I’ll freely admit. I assumed it was the starter too. I’ll also admit I would’ve checked the battery cables for loose connections on the battery and any corrosion, but I wouldn’t have thought to look under that tape. Well, at least until I saw the smoke.
This is a good lesson and not to make too many assumptions and jump on them blindly. I have to do some work on my defender tomorrow and it’s either replacing the coolant sensor or it’s a bad ground so I’m gonna replace the coolant sender because honestly they are cheap easy to access and only take a minute to do. Plus I don’t wanna screw with the grounds unless I really have to.
If you want folding utility knife that opens really easy with one hand I suggest the Klein folding utility knife. It just pushed the button, flick your wrist, and it opens with no effort. Then push the button again and it folds down with just gravity.
Thanks for the video Eric. Great troubleshooting as usual.
I am 100% sure I would have replaced the starter. And then maybe I would have figured out the wires were bad after I got lucky and smelled the smoke that I probably would not have found.
Awesome video…again.
Luv me sum SMA video
I would’ve immediately checked the blinker fluid level. This is why I watch Eric!
To be honest, i probably would have replaced it twice because i would have done the same preliminary check of trying to start it and seeing if the lights dim. So after the replacement starter didn't work, i would have assumed (we all know what that means) the replacement was defective and swapped it a second time. You went the smarter and less laborious route. Good find.
So, in an unrelated, slightly dumb story. Me and my father were going up north from Dutchess County to Buffalo for a family event. My father stopped off for us to take a pit stop and happened to coincidentally pulled over in your town and drove by your shop. I explained I've been watching you on RUclips for more than 5 years I think now. We drove by your shop and I looked and saw and drove down the road you always go down. It was interesting. Would have stopped off but 5pm on Friday and knowing how you feel about non customers just dropping by or calling without work needing to be done. I opted against it. I opened my mobile mechanic business modeled sort of how you do things but with my own twist. Thank you for doing a sometimes thankless job just to keep us educated and entertained.
Had that same problem on my 96 Rav4, but i didn't have the click click. I thought it was my alternator and with family who have worked on cars going back to the stone age; we discovered that the positive side corroded from the inside out. Problem solved, nope a week later at 9pm on a dark country road, the car judt died going around a corner. Called my cousin and he thought the engine went. He jumped the car and she fired right up. Alternator bad, think God no. It was the battery. Replaced it I did and not had a problem since. Great video. Funny, it wasn't the starter nor the alternator. Ot was the battery 😊
95 T-10 Blazer, turn key, loud click. No crank, no start. I replaced the starter twice before giving up and having it towed to a garage. Long story short, the fuel pressure regulator inside the intake manifold that fed the spider injectors had rotted through and filled a cylinder with fuel, and hydro-locked the engine.
Not sure if this counts on new cars, but we had a car that would turn over but not start till you let off the key. I say we, I was helping my Dad many moons ago. Anyways, best we could figure was the starter was drawin so much juice, it had none left to give a strong spark and why it would fire off just as you let off the key. Upshot was a rebuilt starter and worked good, point being, we didn't know squat about how to test for that and only figured it out by using our ears and grey matter and deduction on an old car with very few gizmo's. These new cars, boy... Glad we have Eric to show us the ropes. Thanks for the great vid!
Easy peeze, try drivability in a new car and you will get into inputs and outputs. Many mechanics will just throw parts at a car because of the variables.
Corrosion & water can sure travel along wiring. I repair/install TV satellite and cable coaxial cables. I have found corroded connectors with up to SIX FEET of corroded coaxial cable. Every time I find it, I show the customer why they have no TV. It amazes them every time.
South Main Auto.. Awesome video. Very well explained Eric. That is the correct way to test/diagnose this vehicles concern.
This is why I always do a full visual inspection of the problem area before beginning my diagnosis, would have saved so much time here. Never don't untape the harness first.
Thanks again Eric for teaching all of us DA’s out here how to do something properly. I, like several others people in the comment section, would have changed that starter only to find out I was wrong…. Not that I’m gonna be changing a starter on a Honda or anything for that matter. I still change my own oil and brakes but that’s about it. I’m getting to old to do that stuff……
After about 3+ years of learning this from channels such as soutmain Auto scanner Dan western truck & tractor repair.
Knowledge is power thanks to channels like this. Much appreciated
Good stuff, Eric! You are an excellent teacher and the viewers are better for it!
You can replace Honda 2.4 K starters from below without pulling the intake. It’s tight,but it can be done
I learned to always wait before changing parts to check cables and connection and as you mentioned voltage drop test is a first step
Dragging out the tutorial to eleven minutes, and not ending with the beautiful repair you made!
Lesson learned right there.its hard to not jump right to the fix when the flat rate clock is ticking.but it could save me buying a starter .I have to tell myself to slow down to go fast.
Ivan would be proud of your diagnosis.
Your electrical videos are my favorite! I’ve learned a lot from watching them about auto electrical ( I’m a commercial electrician)
Come on Eric...I doubt anyone here would question your troubleshooting techniques!! If you didn't start there, no one would have, thanks for another lesson!
Good find and demonstration. Plus, you saved the customer lots of money. That's worth the price of admission and why these vids of yours are so important.
I always add an extra ground cable on Honda charging or starter jobs as well. The ground goes from battery to rad support, fender area stock, run one over to the engine block also. As you've shown in many videos, can't have enough grounds😂 Good find, depending on the mileage though, with customer permission a fresh Honda starter while you're in there would be a good idea, let the customer decide.
I had the exact same problem after I replaced the connection on my old F-150 and I even forgot to check it when it wouldn't crank. I ended up cutting out the junk crimp connection and a little wired and got some good marine (I live 30 miles from the GOM) solder lugs and a good lead terminal. Been way better ever since.
Ya know Eric if you save one of us from the dreaded "A" hole status you have done a great job today. Learned a long time ago find where its good and work it to the bad. Nice repair. Thanks once again for sharing your skill and wisdom with us.
Experience and knowledge will always prevail. Nice to have the thought process explained.
I ALWAYS check the battery cables for a starter first. And by always, I mean never. I also always check the battery cables after replacing the starter, alternator, battery, fuse box, starting relays, and ignition assembly.
Agree totally, as an electronics engineer. Just lore current with a starter motor.
Reminds me of the saying; Just 'cause its shiny and new, doesn't mean it works properly.
Eric (or is it EPIC) - as usual, 10-min master class in diagnostics - all of us can use forever going forward. Truthfully, I would have thought "starter" looked at how hard - and REPLACED THE CAR.. Fixed. (LOL)
You CAN get to the starter from underneath on a lift , but the connections are out of sight and you need a mirror. NOT a criticism because the last two starters I did on the 2.4L I used the same 'take off the intake manifold' approach.
Yes i would love a part 2. These are my favorite type of malfunctions
7:00 A little Brake Kleen and then a few drops of Fluid Film on the pivot. 👍
Kind of new here,;even watching awhile and am impressed by your thorough, methodical way of diagnosis and. Cleaning before it all goes back together. Interesting how you saved the woman the cost of a starter. I've done my own work since high school and because I'm cheap,I will check and recheck everything before I bite the bullet and by the expensive part. I should clarify,I'm not cheap just thrifty. Thanks for making these video's 😊
Absolutely a fbomb and more moment after replacing that starter and realizing your mistake. Good catch and thank you for sharing.
Electrical tape that’s not factory is always suspect
Love the vids, you the man!!
Thanks Eric. I'm old school and just learned something new.
All cars run on smoke. As soon as you let the smoke out they stop working. 😉 Great tshooting!
I worked in a shop where another mechanic (no, not me) replaced the starter twice and was about to do it again before I showed him the voltage drop in the cable. Parts shop was thankful.
Because you told me to say it..... I would have checked the terminal first! Great Video, very instructional, love the test with the meter.
Eric we need closure. We need part 2! Voltage drop is my favorite troubleshooting method. It tells the tale. Nice troubleshooting. Cover those damn intake holes! Lol
You are correct my friend. I enjoy these videos very much.
I had a similar situation in a 2007 Civic, only intermittent. I checked all the connections, then tapped on the starter with a long extension. Each time I struck the starter it came to life. The starter was junk. I was able to change the starter with the intake on. The top bolt was stupid tight. I enjoyed the video, and learned something this morning.
Great video - I was hoping you might do another proof by running a jumper cable (or other known good heavy gauge cable) from the starter to the battery terminal, and repeating the voltage drop test. But not sure how practical it is to do so on that car.