Wharram Mana 24 kit - assembling lower hull
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 ноя 2017
- Step by step informative record of assembling the lower hull of the Mana 24 catamaran, from a kit designed by James Wharram and Hanneke Boon.
Mana 24 is available as a CNC cut ply epoxy kit. This kit includes all materials, fittings, sails and rigging - everything to construct a sail-away trailable catamaran.
www.wharram.com/site/self-bui...
/ jameswharramdesigns 
Хобби
Thanks for sharing the building process! I really would love to build one of these but at ~20,000$ Canadian for the kit I don't think I could "float" that. I might be interested in buying the designs and then trying to build it myself in a lower cost way though! I really love the philosophy and think the size is perfect, and really like that it gives a bit more interior space than the Tiki 21. I have grown up sailboat racing but I think my future is more focused on just ENJOYING my time and not being forced to go to certain places. Freedom ya know!
I know a lot of very talented folks who would be willing to help out on the build too, and I am no DIY slouch myself, but I live in an apartment so build space is something of a challenge. Something I really like about these boats is that they are modular, but I wish I could figure out a way to get even more modular than these.
I also think there's probably a variation that could be done on the Tiki 21 design that might allow more livable space when needed too but I have to think on it! Either way! Thanks for sharing these!
It really does make boat building seem a lot more approachable.
Wow, Hanneke has a practiced hand with the epoxy.
No more videos on this? I would love to see the whole thing.
Well done! That looks so straightforward.
Wish you guys had more videos like this.
A suggestion you might like to test on heavier joins, just an an experiment. I have used these ideas for making furniture and tanks out of plywood, and there are no problems structurally to date.
I used to use copper wire lacing and then heat it up using a battery to get enough charred clearance to get it out--then clean the holes and fill them. What a waste of time!!.
Then I tried using bamboo and other wooden skewers--food grade--as drive-in mini-dowels. Sometimes one had to cut a slot in the ends of the larger dowels using a Japanese fine pull-saw or a Junior hack saw blade in a frame to make a small cut a centimetre or so deep in each end and at right angles to one another, and use thin wooden glued wedges to spread the ends into appropriately filed oblong tapered holes. Use a rat-tailed file to taper the holes two sides only. With dowels in place all soaked in slow-set epoxy glue, the entire joint is very strong and the dowels are just left in there permanently. The good thing with mini-dowels, no matter how one uses them is they can be routered, planed or sanded without any damage to tools or blades, they cost peanuts at any supermarket and are really easy to use.
In my fillets I used to use Cabosil. I never tried Q-Cells for fillets, only Phenolic Microspheres below water line but I will certainly give them a try.
.
I have used zip-ties. Now I do not use them unless I can not avoid doing so. Being plastic, epoxy does not bond to them at all and if left in the joint they are a weakness, and taking them out afterwards is a pain.
Instead I lace the wood together using fine un-waxed hemp or clean un-oiled hemp sash cord for bigger jobs. Epoxy LOVES hemp and cotton, but it must be CLEAN and free of wax or oil. Hemp is stronger than cotton if one can get it--I prefer it..
Once the timber is laced firmly in place, I push a small wedge in from either side of the lacing link between one pair of holes and the next, both on the same side of the hull where the line runs from one stitch to the next to fully tension the cord until the epoxy glue dries. Then one can remove the wedges, slice off any excess cord, sand it off smoothly and use thinned resin to make sure penetration of the remaining cord by resin is thorough. So far it always has been. Then a coat or two of finish resin. The tools I use to thread the twine or sash cords through the holes in the timber are either needles I make by doubling a small length of tie-wire, or by using aluminium fids from my rope splicing kit.
One does not have to remove the buried part of the stitches, just sand them smooth. When the cotton or hemp absorbs epoxy resin, it swells just a little. A good thing. I would make some test panels using scrap plywood to make sure one is happy with using twine or string before using in on any vessel. REALLY stress test it. My epoxy fillets were made using Cabosil. Nothing ever leaked or broke. All of my fuel and water holding racks were made in this way, designed to hold Blue water containers or diesel and petrol fuels . Each rack would hold five twenty litre containers. I carpeted the racks and partition walls using marine carpet and the containers were locked in with a carpeted bar across the entire rack. Individual containers can easily be rowed ashore for filling. I used 9 mm plywood for the tops and compartments and 13 mm ply for the base on which the containers sat.
Incredible, I've seen very little about boat building. But I thought that I could make one using some joints you'd see in cnc flatpack and stitch and glue methods I've seen used for canoes (duh canoe -> cat). I can't believe how close I was, that's basically what you are doing. I can't believe it. I wasn't sure if stitch and glue was still a strong enough method at larger scale...I want to build a boat.
Awesome, thumbs up !!
Zip Ties can be used on any stitch & glue construction. Easier to use than copper wire and much kinder to the skin. You do need to drill slightly bigger holes for them and you need to use ones that are strong enough for where they are used. On Mana we use 3mm wide ties, may need wider ones in stress locations at bow and stern of the bigger Tikis.
Awesome cat!!!
I still don't understand why more people aren't using the top quality epoxy, made in Australia called Bote Cote. It's water based and has none of the nasties that is common to many epoxies.Many people are using it after they've found they get no skin irritations and problems using it. It's also cheaper and is a simple 2 to 1 ratio. I've built a 17 foot kayak and a small power boat using it and it's held up perfectly. I'm now considering which Wharram design to build my dream boat, but I know which epoxy I'll be using. Anther bonus of Bote Cote is no amine blush
Is there a video showing how this boat is assembled on the trailer prior to being launched. I want to see how the cross braces are tied to the rest of the boat.
Nice Kit! what wood was used for the stringers?
Is the Mana 24 the only CNC hull you have in production today? Love to see the Tiki 30 hulls done that way ... Precious Time is so fleeting. Thank You in advance . Lee
Wharram Designs should send CNC files for the bigger boat construction plans, that would be much easier instead of measuring the boards before the cutting.
Noce video! can wood flour be used instead of microsphere?
So what is the smallest Wharram design with a protective cab, or can any of the smaller designs be modified with one ?
The smallest Wharram with a protective cab is the Tiki 21, which has a single sleeping space in each hull. The Hitia 17 does have space in the hulls one can sit, like in a kayak, and for stowage. One sleeps in a tent on the platform.
dear,sir can you send me how I get the Epoxy for fix plywood.
thank you.
Can one substitute thicker ply for hull bottoms and other areas of likely object collision?
Interesting construction method.
I would have used standard stitch n glue method.
All those oblong holes and slots would have taken alot of time to cut.
I cant believe you never glassed the fillets.
So much stronger if you do and a larger bonding area
_All those oblong holes and slots would have taken alot of time to cut_
If you're building from scratch, but what a wonderful build-friendly extra to have in the kit they are demonstrating.
Having those would've made my first build (from a kit) so much easier. It would've also significantly increased the quality of the finished boat.
Not that I was so unskilled that my first boat was useless, it was pretty from a distance and almost good enough to put in the water! :)
@@WelcomeToMyDream each to thier own.
I refuse to pay the horrific kit price when you can buy plans or design/build yourself.
The slots dont add a great deal of strength of glassed fillets of the correvt size but tgey DO produce an automatic weak spot for failure.
I do have enough experience to build the hull form from scratch(it is just a rather large canoe)
Ive built about 19 kayaks-mostly gop.
As the dont live in the water they dont need to be vs1088 but for one of these i would definately use bs1088
@@jadekayak01 That's a lot of kayaks!
@@WelcomeToMyDream yep.
I enjoy tinkering and kayaks are an affordable size
Wonderful, where can i buy a kit and what price tag are we looking at?
The kit details are on our website: www.wharram.com/site/self-build-boats/mana24
James Wharrahm and tgey cost a fortune
@@jadekayak01 If you think thier prices are a fortune price out a complete cat of the same size... I'll wait while your wallet bursts into flames! Sure the kit is alot of money but... its also done a ton of work for you in addition to being all proper materials cut properly from the start with few mistakes to be made.
@@Wingnut353 so what.
The hulls are basic .
Ive built many stitch n glue kayaks-up to 19' long.
All my own design.
Most wharrahm cats are nothi g more than a basic hill form.they are easy to develop manually or on free software.
Bulkheads are very easy to cut and place.
It may just take a bit longer that way,and most of the time in building is not in cutting of panels.
You also fail to recognize that they are expensive for what they are.
You cant compare a simple set of plans with a finished boat.
No matter what boat you build ,the finished boat will ALWAYS be far more expensive than "plans" because of the materials and work.
I have tried to find a price on one of these Mana 24 kits but it seems to be top secret does anyone know ?
Hi Archie, on the Wharram website it says: - "Launch price is £10,665.00 for the complete sailing boat (excl. VAT, excl. shipping)."
Website is here:- www.wharram.com/site/self-build-boats/mana24
We buillt a Tiki 30, over 20 years ago, fabulous boat!
What’s the other boat in the background?
man's early boat building attempts, inspired by Flintstone from Bedrock valley......?
Jsmes wharrham discovered the lapita canoe built by the filipino austronesian people that he discovered in New zealand Museum
Donated by tikopia islanders and wharrham duplicated the anuta snd tikopia canoe to prove the Philippines was the one to shape micronesia and melanesia and Polynesia 3000 years ago thank you with a sincere heart and in our austronesian language salamat
That accent sounds South African. Is that where you all are from? If so, I hope you're all safe down there and that you still have your property
Не оставляйте пустоты в днище,практичней заполнить пенкой,или оставлять герметичные лючки👍👍👍🇺🇦
A fool and his money soon parts.