R-Rated: 5.14 Climbing on Marginal Gear
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- Опубликовано: 24 окт 2023
- William Moss (17 at the time of filming) relentlessly pursues the dangerous goal of climbing 5.14 with marginal trad gear at Washington's premiere granite crag Index.
"En Passant" French for "In Passing" was first free climbed by Nathan Hadley which is the direct start to the 5 pitch climb "Ten Percent" in the center of Index's Lower Town Wall, first aided by Bruce Carson and Dave Anderson in 1972.
During the first ascent of "En Passant" two bolts were placed through the crux section to avoid the need for placing small nuts and taking potentially dangerous falls on them. The meat of the climb is 25 moves of techy vertical granite bouldering clocking in around V10/11. The establishment of "En Passant" made it likely to be Index's first 5.14.
In summer of 2022, William Moss stepped up to the base of "En Passant" with the goal of climbing it entirely on gear. The top half of the route depends entirely on the reliability of a small 5kn offset nut, which if fallen on would result in a 20ft+ pendulum whipper (if the piece holds). Will gives the route an R-rated safety rating.
EN PASSANT
Featuring: William Moss
Directed by: Mantas Motekaitis
Filmed by: Mantas Motekaitis & Paul Doffing
Editing by: Mantas Motekaitis & Cedar Wright
Title Graphic: Matthew Vincent Torres
Audio Mastering: Paul Doffing
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That first fall was insane
I thought he was about to deck face first into jagged boulders!!!!
Especially without a helmet…
Yeah. Thinking the same. This is the kind of climb where one should wear a helmet for sure.
Was he being belayed by a tree? That was an insanely hard catch too.
dude just give me more climbing films like this. i dont wanna hear about how someone found a deeper meaning in life cause of a rock climb, just share the awesome experience
all the UK gritstone films mate!
Holy hell, new climb just dropped.
I watched this because en passant is forced
😂🙏
😂😂😂
holy hell
Will is a beast!! Hyped he is getting recognized for his talent!
It’s always a pleasure seeing index on film!
I didn't read the description and at first didn't recognize it since the filming was pretty dark, but once I saw him sitting down next to the start of Sagittarius I was like index index!!
Sweet inside process and external execution. Love the film!
Thanks for documenting the process!
Congrats Will, outstanding send and a good film. All the best! It had always been obvious to us who watched you training at the Cliffs what a great climber you are.
bravo. well climbed and well told.
Hats off! Just jawdropping stunned to say the least! Way to go! This is THE WAY!
"Its all in the mind". Which is why we are all one head injury away from perma retirement.
Wear it.
Yeah; I used to only wear the dome while on the ground... but you grow up sooner or later and reality sets in: anything can happen and it’s only a matter of time before something happens to you. Be safe, be strong, be smart.
Eff YES!!!
Throwback to my Gen!
Thank u!!!
Well sent!!!
🙏🏽🕉
Thanks for the video, I'm looking forward to more from this channel.
More to come! 🤙
great filming and climbing!
The nut popping with the slightest take right at the end lmao. Great video, proud send.
I’m glad someone else saw that 😂
The force wouldn’t go in that direction during a fall. His assessment at the start of the video sounds good.
Nice job William!!
Great work everyone!
Amazing Will! ❤🎉👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼✨
Sick climb! I subbed so there better be some more content asap 😉
Thank you! More on the way ☺
What a promising dude, such dedication and wisdom at only 17!
That tiny piece popping as the belayer took made me laugh so hard, fucking brilliant climbing. Not sure about wearing drago’s on granite tho, sure that added to the difficulty
Very cool!
My man is straight up drinking honey at 1:17
So tense!
Awesome!!! :)
Respect!
I have a feeling chesstube will find their way here, confused as hell. Then pick up climbing shortly after.
Epic film. Kids swole.
Sick video. Subbed
Thanks for the sub!
Sick!
Paul! Where are you at these days! Just saw this on my RUclips feed! Reminds me of last summer. Very cool to see!
I'm around good buddy, in the Red currently! Hopefully I'll catch you at some point.
@@pauldoffing sick! I'll be in bishop all winter
Holy hell!
my favorite part is all the tick marks he left on the wall. I love it when a route looks like a school chalk board.
Oh boo hoo - go clean them
Holy cow!
Whoa!
I will never understand hard trad videos where they cut out gear placements.
BadAss
Trad point well made. A helmet would be prudent.
Hard trad enjoyer
We’ll done! There’s trad climbing and then there’s everything else.
Nine hundo!
Check Mate
Sick film. Anyone have an idea where this wall is located?
Index, Washington (state), USA. Crag is Lower Town Walls
Wearing the softest shoes in the lineup … wow
Thats what i was thinking! lol
fr every edge looks like a struggle haha
4:00 "All the hard climbing I've done before this is overhung sport climbing, gym climbing..." yep. He should get some katanas for thin index climbing.
me when i google en passant
Nice job! For the record, there is a bomber cam placement at this nut and a bomber ball-nut above it. For others attempting this route it will not be R rated.
Which cam?
Z4 yellow/red
@@skylinesclimbing I'm not sure that figures in, as I believe it's the runout from the primary placements to the anchor that gives it it's danger rating. It'll be interesting to hear what future ascensionists say.
@@pauldoffing I mean that the cam fits nicely in the pin-scar where Will places his last piece, the marginal 5kn nut. A good ballnut can also be placed in the small slot above it.
@@skylinesclimbinginteresting! Hard to believe those were missed.
6:54 what song was that? Anyone?
Mother of tickmarks... 😫
I have a hard time understanding how the vicious and frankly absurd use of tick marks makes a traditional ascent of this route any more fulfilling than using the bolts. I can barely see the bolts in the footage, but the tick marks are, to my eyes, heinous. To me, that zeroes out the principle of this traditional ascent, compromises the respect often garnered by this type of climb, and highlights the contrived novelty of this. It's even more disappointing to read the comment below that the climber didn't clean up after himself. It's so easy to do and, again, in my opinion, very disrespectful to any area, much less an area that you're visiting. As a climber I think that respect for the resource is paramount to any climbing accomplishment, and it is our responsibility as climbers to treat the land that graces us with this pursuit with the utmost of honor. Hopefully his style has improved as he's aged into this pursuit.
Good job but the lines with chalk pointing down on the features is such bad style. Putting a little dab of chalk on top of the best part of the hold/foot jib. I’ve seen this happening in Tahoe and it’s gross.
Took a lot of scrubbing from a member of our community, then some rain before they finally went away.
@@skylinesclimbing guy should have brushed it after he sent it but then that would put responsibility on one and in todays world we can have that for our fragile youth. Sarcasm.
a tich of tism i suspect
Wear a god dam helmet.
should probably brush ticks. and wear a helmet. big respect but for a trad ascent it was pretty poor style
I guess I don't get it. Why would you deliberately make a very tough climb more inherently dangerous? It is about, 'can you climb the route,' not about, 'can you climb it in a more hazardous manner than others.' Trad climbing is cool, if done at an appropriate grade, and when other protection is unavailable. But climbing past a bomber-solid bolt to place a micro nut before a super-tough crux? Ego, machismo, and one-upsmanship - "look Ma, no hands!" "Hold my beer!" This is not what I think climbing is about. If I want this mentality, I'll watch base jumping vids.
No, I'm sorry, but climbing a route in the best style possible has *always* been what climbing is about.
But its ok; you really don't need to get it.
With all due respect I think your first sentence sums it up.
Why would you climb this route on bolts when you could top rope it? Much safer. Is that one upsmanship etc..
@@AaronRashaw Hmm.. I take your point. I've done plenty of things in my life that were inherently unsafe, just for a rush. Guess I'm getting old! Plus, I'm a general aviation pilot, and the embedded safety culture is constantly at odds with the desire - and need - to push the envelope a bit to gain proficiency. Lastly, I am both an active (moderate grade) climber, and the parent of a climber. Changes one's perspective a bit. I'll have a think on it over coffee.