Don't have the work sharp but it seems really good for the money. I have a wicked edge I probably got 4 years ago and now have over 1 thousand in but still think it's the best one.
I put a small piece of black foam in the back of the knife clamp, it holds the jaws open so they don't flop around while putting a knife in. The foam is small enough not to interfere with the blade spine. Just got your film today and waiting for the 3D printed holders to use them.
Hey Jeff. You should be getting my letter soon for the films. Looking forward to work on my Civivi Damascus Pintail using your technique with my new WorkSharp. I made my own clamp support upgrade with some plastic plumbing hardware. Works great, cost me less than 3 bucs.I've watched quite a few tutorials on the Work Sharp, and everyone uses "longer" strokes with the stones, so not to "wear" out the center.
I noticed the same thing, he uses a very small section of the WS stone, which will wear out the center and takes longer in the sharpening process itself when you don't use the entire length of the stone. It's like using just the center of a hand saw to cut a piece of wood! Not a bad thing, but...
I have the same unit (actually the pro) but when I get to the tip or base of the knife the angle always changes on me and I dont get an even bevel. Any tips to address that?
I sharpened my Tr 4 with CPM D2 metal. I had the hardest time I've had sharpening. The 320 grit did not do anything. And one bevel was taller than the other one. Which made no sense. Because I clamped it in the vice equally. Any suggestions?
Why don’t you stroke the full blade length in a parallel manner Instead of Across/up & Down ? Seems like you would get a more even consistent Edge. Please tell me your logic behind the uP & Down Stroke.
It's far better to buy the clamp Stabilizer from ebay, and use your hand to stabilize the the top part of the WorkSharp where the guide rod connects. It moves a great deal, you can hear it in the video. You'll get much better results this way. There are a few different clamp stabilizers available on ebay for $12-15.
How do you deal with uneven grinds? I constantly have grinds where the tip of the knife is a different angle than the belly of the knife. Seems like I have to work forever at the tip just to get a burr. Do you microbevel a blade like that? Recently had a benchmade that was literally 23 at the tip and 19 in the belly. I'm sending it back because the grind is just terrible. But for cheaper knives, I might just want to re-profile it.
I had the same problem yesterday. But the whole one side was fatter bevel than the other side was much thinner. The tips always seem to be like that. With these types of sharpening systems, I think it's because, like this guy says, they were sharpened on a wheel.
![[155] Update on Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener - AWESOME IDEA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HWbnULCxB9k/mqdefault.jpg)
![[155] Update on Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener - AWESOME IDEA](/img/tr.png)
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Don't have the work sharp but it seems really good for the money. I have a wicked edge I probably got 4 years ago and now have over 1 thousand in but still think it's the best one.
I put a small piece of black foam in the back of the knife clamp, it holds the jaws open so they don't flop around while putting a knife in. The foam is small enough not to interfere with the blade spine. Just got your film today and waiting for the 3D printed holders to use them.
Awesome, glad you got them, let me know how they work out for you. Thanks again!
Hey Jeff. You should be getting my letter soon for the films. Looking forward to work on my Civivi Damascus Pintail using your technique with my new WorkSharp. I made my own clamp support upgrade with some plastic plumbing hardware. Works great, cost me less than 3 bucs.I've watched quite a few tutorials on the Work Sharp, and everyone uses "longer" strokes with the stones, so not to "wear" out the center.
I noticed the same thing, he uses a very small section of the WS stone, which will wear out the center and takes longer in the sharpening process itself when you don't use the entire length of the stone. It's like using just the center of a hand saw to cut a piece of wood! Not a bad thing, but...
I have the same unit (actually the pro) but when I get to the tip or base of the knife the angle always changes on me and I dont get an even bevel. Any tips to address that?
I sharpened my Tr 4 with CPM D2 metal. I had the hardest time I've had sharpening. The 320 grit did not do anything. And one bevel was taller than the other one. Which made no sense. Because I clamped it in the vice equally. Any suggestions?
Why don’t you stroke the full blade length in a parallel manner Instead of Across/up & Down ?
Seems like you would get a more even consistent Edge.
Please tell me your logic behind the uP & Down Stroke.
He’s using it in accordance with the manufacturers design/instructions. Pretty good logic, I’d say.
Eyy! I just asked about damascus! Very cool
I spend about 1 hour on my wicked going down to .5 micron paste.
Woow! amazing job!👋 so relaxing, I sung this song too.💚
How often would you need to tune up the edge? Would you start at 600?
Depends how often and how much you use the knife but once it doesnt cut great then yes just put it at 600 and it will work perfect!
God I hope this answers questions I have. Because I’ve had this for 2ish years and I can’t get anything close to hair splitting or super scary sharp
Stropping will get it razor sharp.
It's far better to buy the clamp Stabilizer from ebay, and use your hand to stabilize the the top part of the WorkSharp where the guide rod connects. It moves a great deal, you can hear it in the video. You'll get much better results this way. There are a few different clamp stabilizers available on ebay for $12-15.
great video
Thx for your video🇫🇷🤙
Honestly you can get a damn sharp edge with just the ceramic stone, By going extra light
How do you deal with uneven grinds? I constantly have grinds where the tip of the knife is a different angle than the belly of the knife. Seems like I have to work forever at the tip just to get a burr. Do you microbevel a blade like that? Recently had a benchmade that was literally 23 at the tip and 19 in the belly. I'm sending it back because the grind is just terrible. But for cheaper knives, I might just want to re-profile it.
I had the same problem yesterday. But the whole one side was fatter bevel than the other side was much thinner. The tips always seem to be like that. With these types of sharpening systems, I think it's because, like this guy says, they were sharpened on a wheel.
do as i say not as i do
“You really shouldn’t sharpen in both directions.”
Sharpens in both directions
Another good video!