Great video. At 5:11 i recommend you that when doing that is safer to turn the wheel in the opposite direction, so if your cloth catches on the chain it does not drag your hands into the sprocket.
I’d spin the wheel the opposite direction. I was doing the exact process as you and the rag got caught in the sprocket, pulling the tip of my pointer finger between the chain and sprocket. The point of the sprocket went through the fingernail, all the way through the other side. Sounds like cracking a walnut when it breaks through the nail. I’ve cleaned it 100 X’s, but this one time got me. Just hoping to save someone from learning the hard/painful way.
I know someone that lost the top knuckle of there finger on a bike chain as a kid. Was checking the tension because the chain kept popping off going down the street. His foot slipped and ended up spinning the sprocket backwards thru his finger. Never could be reattached, so yea I agree. It's not like it makes it harder to do it the other way.
It happened with me once… my finger got into the chain sprocket. The moment it got stuck in the tooth, I quickly pulled out my finger tearing off the tip of my finger.
My motorcycle is shaft driven. BUT... If I had a chain, this video definitely inspired me to clean it. You have great content Chaos. Keep them coming I can't wait for the next video.
@@Phaze_6 shaft driven unfortunately pushes a little bit to the right when accelerating and a Little to the left if engine braking. Reliable in the fact that you don't have to maintain as much as a chain. But causes problems if you work on your own motorcycle and aren't very mechanically inclined. It all depends on each persons preference and abilities.
If you don't have paddock stand : *Tight down your front brakes so that they a breaking hard and make the bike immovable. *Put the bike in side stand *Take a correct length piece of strong wood and lift the back wheel by placing it between the right axial and ground. It works
After a good cleanup of the chain and a generous coat of chain lube, the motorcycle always feels fresh. It runs freely, you can feel how relaxed the chain is on your throttle and clutch lever.
I would recommend cleaning it every 500km instead of 6 months. 6 months is a major difference between commuter and weekend warrior mileage. Also, kerosene referred to locally is Paraffin and does a great job and is even recommended over chain cleaners by the chain manufacturers. Just wash with warm soapy water afterwards. Lastly, when lubing the chain, it helps to wedge a cardboard between the wheel and chain so your lube doesn't end up on the wheel and then let your bike sit for about 2 or more hours to minimise the amount of lube flung onto your rear wheel
@@goduxunike mine is also standing right now, havent ridden in about 3 months, so what I did was clean the chain, then lubed it, knowing its is going to stand for a while. This at least prevents surface rust from appearing.
Cleaned mine about 2 months ago, but I suggest putting a piece of cordboard between chain and wheel when spraying the chain cleaner and chain lube...saves a lot of time having to wipe off the grime that ends up on your rear wheel and rim. Also I rotate tire backwards so that I don't jam anything in the rear sprocket. Motul is great stuff... I've been using it for years without any issues.
When wiping the chain (free floating part) with a rag, I really recommend spinning the wheel backwards (opposite to what you did). Just incase something snags on the chain your fingers don't follow and go "squish" between the chain and sproket. That would be a really bad injury.
My personal routine.... After every tank fill, 200kms or so, I give the chain a quick clean and lube. My weapons of choice for the past couple of years, simple diesel to clean the dirt and muck off (It has all the good stuff in it too!) and when it comes to lubing, I also use simple Gear Oil! It's cheap and does a fantastic job! Yes, it is a bit messy, but you get used to it! I must be doing something right because I now have over 20000kms on my chain and firstly, it still looks new and gold like the day I bought it, and secondly, I have yet to even retention the chain! No idea why this is, but it is working.... And lastly.... Have an AWESOME Christmas mate! All the best to you and your family! Stay well and stay awesome!
Thank you for your time in making these videos. I am a new rider & you have taught me so much in a matter of minutes. I appreciate you and you have a long time subscriber 🫶🏽
Complete clean, including front sprocket gunk removal, every 2-3 weeks. It drives me crazy to see bikes that have stuck on grime and a matte finish chain. Might be an unpopular opinion but if a chain is neglected, so is the rest of the maintenance...and that says a lot about the owner.
What a coincidence, I literally just finished cleaning/lubing my chain during a wash and 2 months ago I did the full cover removal to clean out the 5kilos of grime from under it. Great video btw!
Well actually last couple of days it was -12°C where I'm living so today I did front pads, rear pads and disc and I cleaned my sprockets, sprocket cover and my chain and holy smoke what a difference it makes. Starting from monday I will do oil change along with my filter, air filter, Spark plug and brake fluid cause I didn't have time before christmas dinner. Awesome vid can't wait for the next one 🔥
Great and interesting Video. Thankfully i got the M Endurance Chain on my S1000RR that is known to be Maintenance Free like all Regina Chains that are also compatible with other Bikes. It is maintenance free because it is coated with Ta-C (Industrial Diamond).
Awesome Video CC! I've had my bike for 6 months and have just been lubing it once every 2 weeks or so, but now that i've watch your video i think i will get some Muck Off chain cleaner as i use all their other products such as disc brake cleaner. I try to only ride the bike in dry weather if I can after learning that riding a sports bike in heavy rain at night, on country roads is a very very bad idea - the bike will be 100% caked in road shite, inside and out, when you wake up the next morning. At the moment I'm going to just have to push the bike up and down the drive to access the chain.
I recently got a brand spanking new 2022 Tracer7 (also first bike ever), the dealer told me not to do anything on the chain before its 1000km service, my chain looks all gunked up and as a detailer it is very hard to resist the urge to clean it, not having a paddockstand helps a bit but seeing this vid i'm considering to do the driveway-walk to get it clean(er). Definitely gonna save the vid and subscribe offcourse.
Yoooo I got a question for you. tell me how this sounds. So my chain kept getting real loose. I tightened it 2x over the past 1.5 months. I tightened again yesterday and realized that I haven't been tightening one of the nuts enough which could be why the chain kept getting loose. After I adjusted the chain and tightened the nuts properly, I saw the red dust. Which might indicate that rust was getting rubbed off the chain. I cleaned and lubed the chain and the red dust stopped appearing. Then I heard a rattle which might indicate the tires arent aligned. But they are... The sprocket looks good. Still spikes. I'm going to go for a 15min ride today and if I continue to hear that rattle I'm going to get a new chain. Does that diagnosis sound about right?
i am a week away from part exchanging my ybr 125 to a xsr 125 and i would like to take a little more care about the chain how oftener would you clean it if i lived in the UK
i use total use an oil lubricator drips oil onto the chain when the rear final drive cog rotates. Keeps the chain nice and clean, only need adjusting every 8000 miles.
I use diesel to clean my chain. It might sound a little bit ridiculous but this is how I do it: I take out the chain and front sprocket off my bike. Then I put them on a plastic pan/bucket, then I pour diesel over them. After that, I use a toothbrush to agitate the dirt. Then I rinse the chain and front sprocket with some clean diesel. Then I soak them with a piece of cloth. Then I reinstall them on the bike and finally lube the chain. At last, I filter the dirty diesel with filter papers for the next use.
I've had chains with 30,000 miles on them that looked better than your pre cleaned chain. Do you spray the chain with water every day to make it look like that?
I have a Tutoro oiler on my chain, keeps it wet with chain oil, so no wax build up. you adjust it so that it isn't wet to point of flicking oil on wheels etc. Tutoro kit is quite pricey, I would opt for a Loobman Chain oiler kit on next bike at fraction of the cost. Other bonus is chain looks constantly clean.
I feel a lot better seeing that after an hour there's still a tiny bit of rust. I just got my first bike a few months ago and the lube that came on it lasted long enough that I forgot chain maintenance was a thing. Before i knew it my chain was starting to rust so i grabbed what i had(silicone oil) and sprayed it, 2 days later it was rusting again. Turns out silicone oil is about the worst chain lube out there. I ordered some real lube and cleaner and after about 20 minutes of scrubbing there is still a little rust but its not spreading anymore yay. Next time i go to the store I'm gonna buy some steel wool and other mild abrasives to get the rest of the rust off.
I'm not sure you are right about the chain vs belt issue. But when that's said, cleaning the chain makes a big difference. Try rolling the bike before and after. You can feel the difference. In fact, I had a Honda CB650R, and a bloke in the UK (I think!) tested one of those bikes on a Dyno. First with the original chain. And then with a chain a size smaller. And that alone gained 5bhp on the wheel! He noticed that the 650 had the same size chain as the 1000 cc bike with 150bhp. Which probably is due to production considerations more than whats necessary to cope with the power. So maybe that's another area to look into!
According to Suzuki user manual, Kerosene is the only cleaning product recommended for chain cleaning and heavy motor oil is the recommended lubricant for it...
I lube the chain immediately after a ride, so it's a little warm. I use gloves and rotate the wheel and spray. Then I spray into my cupped gloved hand and rub the lube into the chain. My bike is outside under a cover - no rust - chain is 6 years old with almost 30k km on it - still in good nick.
There is a product called "Bike Lift" in Turkey, it realliy helps when you dont have a paddock stand and its small and very easy to use. It would be very helpfull if you could get your hands on it. Very nice videos by the way, keep up the good work. You are one of the few bike content creator who makes quality videos.
Lube the chain once, when new, with a wax type lube. It will prevent rust. Spray the rollers whenever you remember (once, or twice a year), with some lube that's more fluid. You don't need a stand really (unless you ride a very heavy bike). I use a piece of a broomstick cut at the proper length and I put it under the rear axle nut, opposite the kickstand. Rear wheel stays in the air and you can spin it freely. Spray the chain while spinning the wheel and then kick the stick to set the bike back on it's wheels. Done. 5 minutes. The chain will last as long as those religiously washed, dried and pampered. And from the many hours you save use one every couple years to replace the chain and sprockets. No matter how well you think you maintain it, some links will wear faster than others and the chain will not have the same slack in all positions. You'll feel it especially at slow speed.
2:43 ACTUALLYY!!!! kerosene/paraffin is better and recommended by the chain manufacturers, and won’t dry out o/x/z rings, any cleaner that manages to get past the rings and dries out the lube underneath tho usually means the chain it’s self is dead anyway, the rings shouldn’t fail from cleaners seaping past since they shouldn’t let that happen anyway
I own a RE interceptor 650, I live in India where the roads are quite a lot dusty when compared to Europe of North America, thus I clean my bike’s chain twice a month. I don’t know how to remove the sprocket cover.. but I definitely follow rest of the process.
You should use rags or cardboard to catch all the liquids going around. They do not belong on other parts of the bike, or the ground/environment. Collect the stuff and put it into the trash can. I also highly advise against "rinsing": either the cleaner disolves the o-rings (be or slow or quick) or it does not. Use one that does not. By rinsing, you flush harmful chemicals (and the dirt) into the ground, which is really a no-go. Just take a rag and wipe it dry.
I actually cleaned and lubed my chain this morning. I need to get a triple brush like that, toothbrush on all sides is tedious. Should probably get a paddock stand too, cleaning 10 links and a time between pushing the bike around is quite time consuming. My process is to clean with a degreaser like Cleen Green using a toothbrush, and rinse it off with water as I go. Then I go at it with WD-40 or equivalent with a different toothbrush to dissolve and clean off any leftover dirty lube and displace water while also taking away any rust on the surface, also giving attention to the exposed sprocket teeth as I go. Drive the bike around the complex a bit to aid in the evaporation of excess wd40 and warm up the chain a bit. Then finally, instead of spraying the lube and getting it everywhere, I use the precision straw to spray it on a 3rd clean toothbrush to apply to the chain, spraying on more than will stick to the chain is just going to splatter everywhere once the chain is significantly moving anyways. And once it's all lubed just give it another drive around to ensure it's all smooth, and whatever splatter there will be can come off before giving the rims and swingarm a quick wipe down.
I clean my chain every 500 miles or 804 kilometers. I also always spray my products on the chain that is under the engine, so that I don’t spray the wheel as well! However, I have a large ADV Africa Twin, so if I go off road, then it’s time to clean!
I have never rinsed chain cleaner off before applying lube and I've never had a problem. Most cleaners, especially kerosene, will evaporate and dry before you have time to rinse them off.
I have got the to this every other week. To me all the fun is gone and it feels like a chore. But I ride around about 20.000km per year. I have stopped using spray cans, that got too expensive. Now I'm using liquid cleaner and chain fat.
Is that smart to spend around 30€ and slot of time to lube and clean 100€ chain. At beginning I did it, but now I have only 100ml pressol oiler filled with w80 transmission oil and piece from old shirt under my seat. Daily rider, 15-20k per year.
Motul is worse when it comes to Indian roads. Not aware about other countries, but motul sticks to the chain attracting more and more dust leading to wearing off chain sooner.
Fun fact: the 390 will leak oil out of the middle sprocket cover bolt hole if the engine is on and sprocket cover and corresponding bolts are off too. Tis normal. But I found out the hard way.
so i have yet to get my A2 license but one of my friends have had his for 3 years now and his dad has had A license for 10 years and i help them change chains twuice a year he says im rather safe then sorry cant wait to go for my license
Every single motorbike manufacturer recommends cleaning your chain with kerosene; its in your bike manual. Kerosene is called parafin in South Africa. It's considerably cheaper than chain cleaner. In a pinch you can also clean your chain with Mr Min which will not damage O-rings.
I use gear oil and clean the chain once a month maybe. Gear oil doesn’t leave any residue and gunk anywhere near ur chain. Only downside is there will be lots of oil stains near ur front sprocket, but no gunk buildup
This! I've tried all the lubes and am sticking with gear oil. It doesn't create a fine grinding paste due to dirt buildup in the sticky mess created by fancy lubes. It does need more frequent lubing than the sticky ones but my chains definitely last longer. One of the few occasions where cheaper is much better.
@@jsxza totally!! Agreed!! I calculated the savings in using gearoil inside of a spray and after 10k kms of lubing you save enough to buy a new chain sprocket assembly
Be careful not to let a little bit of chain lube make its way to brake disc surface. It will compromise friction of brake pads, but using soap and lot of water to rinse the brake pads and brake disc surface then give it some bedding time and the brakes will work again
This what I do while cleaning & applying the grease on the chain is putting precut cardboard behind the chain to avoid spraying the lube on the bike. So no need of cleaning the wheel or parts of the bike after chain cleaning process. 😎👍🏻
I do the same and kinda make it into a taco around the chain. I haven't used it yet, but I heard cereal box cardboard is good to use. Alot more flexible
Lubing the front sprocket does nothing at best, at worst you gunk it up faster. There is no need to lube the sprocket and i wonder what type of wear on the output shaft you think to prevent like this.
@@PhilipMarroni This is the institution what I got when I bought my bike. They said the shaft will get rust formation in them if you aint cleaning it & lubing it. I have seen the rust formation & which makes the cuts in the shaft smoother. This inturn contribute to gear slips ( the same phenomenon that happens when there aint teeths on the sprocket).
Great video. At 5:11 i recommend you that when doing that is safer to turn the wheel in the opposite direction, so if your cloth catches on the chain it does not drag your hands into the sprocket.
This is what was on my mind 🤭
Yes, I cringed a bit when I saw that too.
Yeah I learned that the hard way 😂😂😂
Yes. That will let you keep all your fingers.
Hey at least the engine is not on xd
I’d spin the wheel the opposite direction. I was doing the exact process as you and the rag got caught in the sprocket, pulling the tip of my pointer finger between the chain and sprocket. The point of the sprocket went through the fingernail, all the way through the other side. Sounds like cracking a walnut when it breaks through the nail. I’ve cleaned it 100 X’s, but this one time got me. Just hoping to save someone from learning the hard/painful way.
I know someone that lost the top knuckle of there finger on a bike chain as a kid. Was checking the tension because the chain kept popping off going down the street. His foot slipped and ended up spinning the sprocket backwards thru his finger. Never could be reattached, so yea I agree. It's not like it makes it harder to do it the other way.
I just make it slowly by 10-15 cm (4-6 in) at the time. I think this way it's safe enough.
Let it run on its own. First gear no gas should do the trick🧊
It happened with me once… my finger got into the chain sprocket. The moment it got stuck in the tooth, I quickly pulled out my finger tearing off the tip of my finger.
My motorcycle is shaft driven. BUT... If I had a chain, this video definitely inspired me to clean it. You have great content Chaos. Keep them coming I can't wait for the next video.
What bike do you have ?
@@Phaze_6 2004 Honda shadow aero 750
@@midlifeduck7040 is shaft reliable and better than chain or is chain better? What is your opinion
@@Phaze_6 shaft driven unfortunately pushes a little bit to the right when accelerating and a Little to the left if engine braking. Reliable in the fact that you don't have to maintain as much as a chain. But causes problems if you work on your own motorcycle and aren't very mechanically inclined. It all depends on each persons preference and abilities.
@@midlifeduck7040 thanks bro👍🏼👌
130kms daily and i clean them every 3 days or so. I totally agree chain maintenance is of significant importance
Unless you ride in mud only cleaning a chain every 390 km or 3 days is a waste of money
@@zutadaska7875 i'd pay for a smoother ride
I have a bike with a belt now, but I actually miss having a chain to clean. I found it was very calming and pleasing to clean it and maintain it.
You can do it for me if you want to 🤣
Awesome! 🤣🤣
I wish to think the same way as you...
If you don't have paddock stand :
*Tight down your front brakes so that they a breaking hard and make the bike immovable.
*Put the bike in side stand
*Take a correct length piece of strong wood and lift the back wheel by placing it between the right axial and ground. It works
After a good cleanup of the chain and a generous coat of chain lube, the motorcycle always feels fresh. It runs freely, you can feel how relaxed the chain is on your throttle and clutch lever.
first oil change and chain cleaning done. so excited for riding
I would recommend cleaning it every 500km instead of 6 months. 6 months is a major difference between commuter and weekend warrior mileage. Also, kerosene referred to locally is Paraffin and does a great job and is even recommended over chain cleaners by the chain manufacturers. Just wash with warm soapy water afterwards. Lastly, when lubing the chain, it helps to wedge a cardboard between the wheel and chain so your lube doesn't end up on the wheel and then let your bike sit for about 2 or more hours to minimise the amount of lube flung onto your rear wheel
I unfortunately bought a bike right before winter and it it's taking me longer than 6 months to get to 500km in mileage.
@@goduxunike mine is also standing right now, havent ridden in about 3 months, so what I did was clean the chain, then lubed it, knowing its is going to stand for a while. This at least prevents surface rust from appearing.
@@4u2nvcpt probably should do the same. Thanks for the tip!
Cleaned mine about 2 months ago, but I suggest putting a piece of cordboard between chain and wheel when spraying the chain cleaner and chain lube...saves a lot of time having to wipe off the grime that ends up on your rear wheel and rim. Also I rotate tire backwards so that I don't jam anything in the rear sprocket. Motul is great stuff... I've been using it for years without any issues.
When wiping the chain (free floating part) with a rag, I really recommend spinning the wheel backwards (opposite to what you did). Just incase something snags on the chain your fingers don't follow and go "squish" between the chain and sproket.
That would be a really bad injury.
Yep. Seen it happen. Dude was lubing his chain, using the engine to spin it round, got distracted. Let's just say he can only count to 9.5 these days
@Storm van Eersel 😂😂
That's lucky! With engine rotating the wheel, could've been much worse.
My personal routine....
After every tank fill, 200kms or so, I give the chain a quick clean and lube.
My weapons of choice for the past couple of years, simple diesel to clean the dirt and muck off (It has all the good stuff in it too!) and when it comes to lubing, I also use simple Gear Oil!
It's cheap and does a fantastic job! Yes, it is a bit messy, but you get used to it!
I must be doing something right because I now have over 20000kms on my chain and firstly, it still looks new and gold like the day I bought it, and secondly, I have yet to even retention the chain!
No idea why this is, but it is working....
And lastly....
Have an AWESOME Christmas mate!
All the best to you and your family!
Stay well and stay awesome!
Thank you for your time in making these videos. I am a new rider & you have taught me so much in a matter of minutes. I appreciate you and you have a long time subscriber 🫶🏽
5:40 Yes, spray the oil on the tires and the rims.
After spraying some on my brakes I'm much faster! The race official said he's never seen someone go flat out into the barrier like I did 😎
Complete clean, including front sprocket gunk removal, every 2-3 weeks. It drives me crazy to see bikes that have stuck on grime and a matte finish chain. Might be an unpopular opinion but if a chain is neglected, so is the rest of the maintenance...and that says a lot about the owner.
You know nothing about poo or chains. You must clean your chain daily and now is the time on Sprockets when we dance!
For me it just needs enough protection i dont really care about the looks
It's rather do an extra oil change than clean the chain. Engine is expensive, chain is not.
What a coincidence, I literally just finished cleaning/lubing my chain during a wash and 2 months ago I did the full cover removal to clean out the 5kilos of grime from under it. Great video btw!
Well actually last couple of days it was -12°C where I'm living so today I did front pads, rear pads and disc and I cleaned my sprockets, sprocket cover and my chain and holy smoke what a difference it makes. Starting from monday I will do oil change along with my filter, air filter, Spark plug and brake fluid cause I didn't have time before christmas dinner. Awesome vid can't wait for the next one 🔥
Great and interesting Video. Thankfully i got the M Endurance Chain on my S1000RR that is known to be Maintenance Free like all Regina Chains that are also compatible with other Bikes. It is maintenance free because it is coated with Ta-C (Industrial Diamond).
Awesome Video CC! I've had my bike for 6 months and have just been lubing it once every 2 weeks or so, but now that i've watch your video i think i will get some Muck Off chain cleaner as i use all their other products such as disc brake cleaner. I try to only ride the bike in dry weather if I can after learning that riding a sports bike in heavy rain at night, on country roads is a very very bad idea - the bike will be 100% caked in road shite, inside and out, when you wake up the next morning. At the moment I'm going to just have to push the bike up and down the drive to access the chain.
I recently got a brand spanking new 2022 Tracer7 (also first bike ever), the dealer told me not to do anything on the chain before its 1000km service, my chain looks all gunked up and as a detailer it is very hard to resist the urge to clean it, not having a paddockstand helps a bit but seeing this vid i'm considering to do the driveway-walk to get it clean(er). Definitely gonna save the vid and subscribe offcourse.
I have that chain cleaner. It works really well!
Yoooo I got a question for you. tell me how this sounds. So my chain kept getting real loose. I tightened it 2x over the past 1.5 months. I tightened again yesterday and realized that I haven't been tightening one of the nuts enough which could be why the chain kept getting loose. After I adjusted the chain and tightened the nuts properly, I saw the red dust. Which might indicate that rust was getting rubbed off the chain. I cleaned and lubed the chain and the red dust stopped appearing. Then I heard a rattle which might indicate the tires arent aligned. But they are... The sprocket looks good. Still spikes. I'm going to go for a 15min ride today and if I continue to hear that rattle I'm going to get a new chain. Does that diagnosis sound about right?
My Duke 390 is due for service a few days from now.. Will have the chain cleaned and lubed
Fully cleaned, lubed and adjusted my chain today. Every time i adjust, i clean and lube too😌
i am a week away from part exchanging my ybr 125 to a xsr 125 and i would like to take a little more care about the chain how oftener would you clean it if i lived in the UK
i use total use an oil lubricator drips oil onto the chain when the rear final drive cog rotates. Keeps the chain nice and clean, only need adjusting every 8000 miles.
I use diesel to clean my chain. It might sound a little bit ridiculous but this is how I do it: I take out the chain and front sprocket off my bike. Then I put them on a plastic pan/bucket, then I pour diesel over them. After that, I use a toothbrush to agitate the dirt. Then I rinse the chain and front sprocket with some clean diesel. Then I soak them with a piece of cloth. Then I reinstall them on the bike and finally lube the chain. At last, I filter the dirty diesel with filter papers for the next use.
I've had chains with 30,000 miles on them that looked better than your pre cleaned chain. Do you spray the chain with water every day to make it look like that?
I have a Tutoro oiler on my chain, keeps it wet with chain oil, so no wax build up. you adjust it so that it isn't wet to point of flicking oil on wheels etc. Tutoro kit is quite pricey, I would opt for a Loobman Chain oiler kit on next bike at fraction of the cost. Other bonus is chain looks constantly clean.
I feel a lot better seeing that after an hour there's still a tiny bit of rust. I just got my first bike a few months ago and the lube that came on it lasted long enough that I forgot chain maintenance was a thing. Before i knew it my chain was starting to rust so i grabbed what i had(silicone oil) and sprayed it, 2 days later it was rusting again. Turns out silicone oil is about the worst chain lube out there. I ordered some real lube and cleaner and after about 20 minutes of scrubbing there is still a little rust but its not spreading anymore yay. Next time i go to the store I'm gonna buy some steel wool and other mild abrasives to get the rest of the rust off.
I'm not sure you are right about the chain vs belt issue.
But when that's said, cleaning the chain makes a big difference. Try rolling the bike before and after. You can feel the difference.
In fact, I had a Honda CB650R, and a bloke in the UK (I think!) tested one of those bikes on a Dyno. First with the original chain. And then with a chain a size smaller. And that alone gained 5bhp on the wheel!
He noticed that the 650 had the same size chain as the 1000 cc bike with 150bhp. Which probably is due to production considerations more than whats necessary to cope with the power.
So maybe that's another area to look into!
This is guy is so great! I thought that he would have much more subscribers 😅
Well done man. Saw you at Hartebeespoortdam today!
According to Suzuki user manual, Kerosene is the only cleaning product recommended for chain cleaning and heavy motor oil is the recommended lubricant for it...
The problem with oil is it's still not heavy enough to stay on after certain speeds
@@soldiers303 lubricating an outdoor system is always a balance between lubricant escaping and dirt sticking...
I lube the chain immediately after a ride, so it's a little warm. I use gloves and rotate the wheel and spray. Then I spray into my cupped gloved hand and rub the lube into the chain. My bike is outside under a cover - no rust - chain is 6 years old with almost 30k km on it - still in good nick.
There is a product called "Bike Lift" in Turkey, it realliy helps when you dont have a paddock stand and its small and very easy to use. It would be very helpfull if you could get your hands on it. Very nice videos by the way, keep up the good work. You are one of the few bike content creator who makes quality videos.
Great video, try CleandisC chainguard to avoid lube on the wheel
Lube the chain once, when new, with a wax type lube. It will prevent rust. Spray the rollers whenever you remember (once, or twice a year), with some lube that's more fluid. You don't need a stand really (unless you ride a very heavy bike). I use a piece of a broomstick cut at the proper length and I put it under the rear axle nut, opposite the kickstand. Rear wheel stays in the air and you can spin it freely. Spray the chain while spinning the wheel and then kick the stick to set the bike back on it's wheels. Done. 5 minutes. The chain will last as long as those religiously washed, dried and pampered. And from the many hours you save use one every couple years to replace the chain and sprockets. No matter how well you think you maintain it, some links will wear faster than others and the chain will not have the same slack in all positions. You'll feel it especially at slow speed.
2:43 ACTUALLYY!!!! kerosene/paraffin is better and recommended by the chain manufacturers, and won’t dry out o/x/z rings, any cleaner that manages to get past the rings and dries out the lube underneath tho usually means the chain it’s self is dead anyway, the rings shouldn’t fail from cleaners seaping past since they shouldn’t let that happen anyway
I am going to clean my chain now🧐......THX to Chaos!
I own a RE interceptor 650, I live in India where the roads are quite a lot dusty when compared to Europe of North America, thus I clean my bike’s chain twice a month. I don’t know how to remove the sprocket cover.. but I definitely follow rest of the process.
You should use rags or cardboard to catch all the liquids going around. They do not belong on other parts of the bike, or the ground/environment. Collect the stuff and put it into the trash can.
I also highly advise against "rinsing": either the cleaner disolves the o-rings (be or slow or quick) or it does not. Use one that does not. By rinsing, you flush harmful chemicals (and the dirt) into the ground, which is really a no-go. Just take a rag and wipe it dry.
I actually cleaned and lubed my chain this morning. I need to get a triple brush like that, toothbrush on all sides is tedious. Should probably get a paddock stand too, cleaning 10 links and a time between pushing the bike around is quite time consuming.
My process is to clean with a degreaser like Cleen Green using a toothbrush, and rinse it off with water as I go.
Then I go at it with WD-40 or equivalent with a different toothbrush to dissolve and clean off any leftover dirty lube and displace water while also taking away any rust on the surface, also giving attention to the exposed sprocket teeth as I go.
Drive the bike around the complex a bit to aid in the evaporation of excess wd40 and warm up the chain a bit.
Then finally, instead of spraying the lube and getting it everywhere, I use the precision straw to spray it on a 3rd clean toothbrush to apply to the chain, spraying on more than will stick to the chain is just going to splatter everywhere once the chain is significantly moving anyways.
And once it's all lubed just give it another drive around to ensure it's all smooth, and whatever splatter there will be can come off before giving the rims and swingarm a quick wipe down.
Every 400 miles +/- I do a clean and lube. I have yet to pull the front sprocket cover though.
Maybe next time.
Thank you bro, merry Christmas 🎄
Vidéo motivated me to buy another KTM Duke 390 after selling mine.
i just cleaned my bike chain yesterday and it fells great now
I use my old biodegradable air cleaner solution. Works great
Me and my brother experimented with it and we found that for us 125cc and 500cc bikers is the best to clean our chains every 700km
I'm reminding myself to clean my chian for the last year. Don't worry, I'll do it.
I clean my chain every 500 miles or 804 kilometers. I also always spray my products on the chain that is under the engine, so that I don’t spray the wheel as well! However, I have a large ADV Africa Twin, so if I go off road, then it’s time to clean!
I have never rinsed chain cleaner off before applying lube and I've never had a problem. Most cleaners, especially kerosene, will evaporate and dry before you have time to rinse them off.
Nice one mate. 🇬🇧👍👍👍😂👍. Always put this off but afterwards you can see and feel the difference
I have got the to this every other week. To me all the fun is gone and it feels like a chore. But I ride around about 20.000km per year. I have stopped using spray cans, that got too expensive. Now I'm using liquid cleaner and chain fat.
Is that smart to spend around 30€ and slot of time to lube and clean 100€ chain.
At beginning I did it, but now I have only 100ml pressol oiler filled with w80 transmission oil and piece from old shirt under my seat. Daily rider, 15-20k per year.
Thanks for keeping us informed. 😃👍
Motul is worse when it comes to Indian roads. Not aware about other countries, but motul sticks to the chain attracting more and more dust leading to wearing off chain sooner.
This was so helpful. Going to my garage to clean my chain rigth away XD
Cleaning: Diesel
Lubing: Gear Oil like 90w or more and it sticks very well and is pretty cheap. 10€ for 10 Years or so.
Well produced and informative video thanks
Ngl I have neglected doing this for the past year and my chain really needs it now starting to get pretty rusty
To be honest, i wish manufacturers gave us a much larger choice for drive shafts transmissions
From the small bikes to the big bikes
Always use a piece of cardboard or an old newspaper when lubing the chain. You don't want the lube on your tyre.
finally someone sad that!!!
Drive, lube and tension through the season (25k-30k kms), then replace and get ready for new season. Cleaning isn't that necessary. Good luck.
stick a piece of cardboard between the swingarm and the wheel, that way all the grease will go into the cardboard instead
I am MOTIVATED! xD Chain due for deep cleaning in a month or so.
When did I clean my Dukes chain?
5 days ago.
Fun fact: the 390 will leak oil out of the middle sprocket cover bolt hole if the engine is on and sprocket cover and corresponding bolts are off too. Tis normal. But I found out the hard way.
Well done and informative, thank you. And i like 360‘ too👍
Am I super OCD? I give my chains TLC every bike wash, 1 a week. Total hours spent cleaning bike is 3 hrs. 1 a week.
Yeah. I tried cleaning the chain without bike stands. It's quite tricky
so i have yet to get my A2 license
but one of my friends have had his for 3 years now and his dad has had A license for 10 years
and i help them change chains twuice a year he says im rather safe then sorry
cant wait to go for my license
Great advice awesome vid bro.
Shell 140 grade axis oil is best for the job, and dirt cheap
Hi from South African vloggers
💯 🇿🇦 🌍 😁
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How to remove chain lube from tyre ? I try soap and water and doesn’t remove, the tyre is sticky on the spots
Gr8 vid. Ride safe, god bless u.
god damn i am real early! merry christmas homie🤙
Every 500-700 miles depending on weather conditions works pretty well
Every single motorbike manufacturer recommends cleaning your chain with kerosene; its in your bike manual. Kerosene is called parafin in South Africa. It's considerably cheaper than chain cleaner.
In a pinch you can also clean your chain with Mr Min which will not damage O-rings.
Can I use engine oil as chain lube?
No. If you dont want use proper stuff then some use chainsaw oil.
What about "essence F " for cleaning ?
I use gear oil and clean the chain once a month maybe. Gear oil doesn’t leave any residue and gunk anywhere near ur chain. Only downside is there will be lots of oil stains near ur front sprocket, but no gunk buildup
This! I've tried all the lubes and am sticking with gear oil. It doesn't create a fine grinding paste due to dirt buildup in the sticky mess created by fancy lubes. It does need more frequent lubing than the sticky ones but my chains definitely last longer. One of the few occasions where cheaper is much better.
@@jsxza totally!! Agreed!! I calculated the savings in using gearoil inside of a spray and after 10k kms of lubing you save enough to buy a new chain sprocket assembly
what brand you use for wheel/rim cleaner?
This video motivated me to get a shaft driven bike. Oh wait,.. I've got one already.
Be careful not to let a little bit of chain lube make its way to brake disc surface. It will compromise friction of brake pads, but using soap and lot of water to rinse the brake pads and brake disc surface then give it some bedding time and the brakes will work again
Well ive never cleaned my chain and its still shiny with minimal dirt, do i still need to clean it ?
You should just do a minor clean ever few months, mine is only like 4 months old and looks shiny but when i cleaned it, so much dirt came out.
How do I dry the chain if I don’t have access to air compressor?
Can anyone tell me how to clean the chain brush after cleaning the motorcycle chain? It's really hard to take off the grease from the brush.
I clean my chain every other ride, or after one long ride. It's one small thing I can do to take care of the bike, I might as well just do it
I clean my chain every time I wash my bike (one month gap) is it bad or good for the chain?
It's good :)
Mine is really filthy at the front sprocket area, gotta take that cover off and clean that area. 🤣
Haha, got it. Punctuation saves lives. Love it, ‘Let’s eat Grandma vs Let’s eat, Grandma.’
I clean every week and oil with gear oil works well.
Every 300km to 500km, full clean and chain wax. Does the job, without going overboard.
This what I do while cleaning & applying the grease on the chain is putting precut cardboard behind the chain to avoid spraying the lube on the bike. So no need of cleaning the wheel or parts of the bike after chain cleaning process. 😎👍🏻
I do the same and kinda make it into a taco around the chain. I haven't used it yet, but I heard cereal box cardboard is good to use. Alot more flexible
@@taz4100 Nice mate 😎👍🏻
I'm usualy using a gray thick cardboard so it can stay up even after a few sprays
What a coincidence. I did mine about the time this video went live
I loved the generic chain brush every bike parts shop has in SA. Those small bristles come out the blue mould too easily though
You can apply the lube on the front sprocket too, as there are chances that you wear off the front sprocket & shaft connecting it.
Lubing the front sprocket does nothing at best, at worst you gunk it up faster. There is no need to lube the sprocket and i wonder what type of wear on the output shaft you think to prevent like this.
@@PhilipMarroni This is the institution what I got when I bought my bike.
They said the shaft will get rust formation in them if you aint cleaning it & lubing it. I have seen the rust formation & which makes the cuts in the shaft smoother. This inturn contribute to gear slips ( the same phenomenon that happens when there aint teeths on the sprocket).
@@aravind1264 you're wrong
@@jradish so you saying that there is no point in applying lube on the front sprocket ?
I also use Motul on my Duke 200 .2020