For a guy in his garage doing these things I think it is simply amazing the things Mark tries AND accomplishes. Almost nothing seems like a stretch! Inspiring...
Well when you figure in that Mark is a former Industrial Tech teacher! He does do some excellent work in that garage and I love the sound effects from the local wildlife!
Great stuff, don’t know what it is with your videos but before watching I get properly comfortable, put the phone and tablet away, grab a drink and watch them distraction free. Can’t think of too many channels I really give my full focus to when watching.
turned out beautiful. I keep all my milling tools in a cart with desiccant bags in each drawer to keep down the rust. And every fall I put the desiccant in the microwave to drive off watter. Works well so fair.
Sadly, I am not that organised. I try to keep exposed surfaces oiled but with a wood shop next door there is always a film of dust that gets attracted to the oiled surfaces and the wood dust itself can be corrosive. It's a constant battle. Regards, Mark
I'm jealous of your beautifully prepped and painted Bridgeport and now you have a carbon fiber tool rack. Too much, I can't take it! 😜 thanks for sharing, always fun to watch and I learn something every time.
When I cut things that create dust, I place it into a container with a piece of HDPE at the bottom so I don't cut through the container. I use a diamond hole saw and add water to just cover the piece. Makes a beautiful cut with no dust and reduces the heat. That is awesome that you can plot it out with the laser. Turned out really fantastic!!!
What a great way to start my day. A cup of Skybar coffee and a Preso video. Can't be beat. What a great finish to an interesting project. Looks fine, will last a long time.
Hi Mark, The rack turned out well, you must be pleased... It was interesting to see McLaren in Woking, I live about 35 miles from there and had a couple of ex McLaren software engineers working for me... Take care Paul,,
It was interesting how different it was going from the Red Bull factory to McLaren. At Red Bull we were free to take photos of just about anything and we got right up close to some of the engineers, aerodynamicists and the CNC machines. At McLaren we were forbidden from taking any photos and we had to hand in all our phones and cameras before we entered. We were lead around by two minders who were PR types and not engineers but the tour was off the chart in terms of F1 racing heritage. Bruce McLaren's first Austin 7 was sitting right on the floor along with the 2009 MP4. When we were leaving one of the students we were with picked up a stone from one of the gardens outside the complex and she was swooped on by some security guards who took the stone off her and then checked her phone for any photos that she might have taken after leaving the secure area. Still, it was one of the highlights of my visit to the UK. I subsequently got to tour the Williams factory just before Bottas left for Mercedes. Regards, Mark
I put a photo on Instagram, you may have seen it and I boasted that it was strong enough to stand on. Someone challenged me on that. I have to accept the challenge but my wife will have to take the photo. Regards, Mark
Hi Mark, when using hole saws in thick steel plate they cut faster if a small hole or two , say 6 or 8 mm is drilled just on the cutting line of the holesaw , this allows somewhere for the chips to go and stops the teeth from clogging and slowing the cut, this would probably work for other materials too.. Great videos.
Excellent repurposing, looks great, interesting to hear on your manufacturing approaches. I worked at a company that manufactures Kevlar control rods for some military aircraft (about 25 mm OD X 1750 mm long) plus other Kevlar products on machine maintenace, the Kevlar dust was getting everywhere, and causing electrical failures on equipment that wasn't dust proof. Chamfer, without the "P" Great vlog as per usual, thanks for sharing. Regards John.
John, there is a local company called Kevlacat that makes large water craft. They had a contract to make water police boats for Papua New Guinea and part of their accreditation process was to show that the Kevlar/ glass fibre composite panel they were using on the vessels was impact resistant. As a joke they set up a test panel on a stand and blasted it with a shotgun. When the vessel was commissioned the PNG police thought it was bullet proof and as a result considered themselves invincible. Sadly, it was not the case and they had to be warned not to go up against armed vessels without some precautions. I think Kevlacat were one of the first companies to be able to successfully bond glass fibre to kevlar. I wonder how damaging carbon fibre dust would be to electrical equipment? Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, standard Glass fibre is pretty tough, adding the Kevlar would certainly improve its impact resistance against sub sonic lead shot! bonding to Kevlar is quite a product. Another product this company made was bullet proof vest liners for use by the Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC) in Northern Ireland ( this 1989/1990), it was light tan in colour and resembled Hessian in structure, this was cut to shape CNC ( can't remember the actual cutting process), then 12 layers were sewn together in a diagonal Criss cross at 25 mm pitch by industrial manual machines, there were pockets added to add a shaped ceramic plate to offer protection from high velocity rounds. I only worked at this company for a week, I was on agency work, and got a Friday afternoon call to start the following Monday, there were three full time maintenance guys, one was on long term sick, and the other two had been allowed to book overlapping holiday. It was quite interesting to see many different processes, in composites, from helmets for the Finnish army, bullet proof doors ( fibre laminated between 8 to 25 mm thick), light weight seats for a military aircraft, light weight truss towers for lighting, and large shrouds for very large deck guns on warships (circa 7 to 9 metre diameter). Only draw back was you itched all the time due to the various fibres airborne. My background is in automotive welding up to then. It was the overhead crane 3 phase supply tracks and control gear that first became susceptible to the conductive fibres, there was a large grill mesh to the enclosures, this was addressed. Thanks for replying, enjoying your content, 2020 newbie. Regards John.
Awesome video as usual.... Just a FYI, I used to build those tables back in 2004 - 2006.. I used to machine nearly every part and fully build by hand.. All the wiring and hoses were also made per machine...lol.. I thought the carbon looked familiar...
Truth be told, I really wanted to make the shelf out of aluminium but I didn't have any thick enough and as I was looking through my stock of sheet material I moved aside the pieces of carbon fibre and then realised that the CF was just the right thickness and just the right size. Corian would be great too. Regards, Mark
Never can accuse you of just giving up! I think it turned out very well, its handsome too. Try this powder coating tip. Ive found that parts that didnt powder coat well and showed pits or dry areas much like the part you experimented with did can be RE powder coated. I was making a very large bushcraft style knife and made the blade from some old 1095 I had on hand. But that piece of steel had seen better days and had some rusting on one side that was fairly deep. I gave the blade a dance in the blast cabinet and decided to PC it but when finished it showed some pitting. I then hand sanded with 150 grit and knocked off all the gloss and kept going when I noticed that the coating was acting like a primer surfacer and filling in the pitted areas. I then repower coated the blade and it came out most excellent and you could not tell anything went wrong before. You just need to be able to ground the part (you guys say earth). Give that a try next time you get your PC stuff set up.
My main problem was that the clear powder coat became cloudy due to some contaminant in the underlying material. I do have some sandable powder coat which is sort of like a primer. As you say, you can go a long way to improving the surface texture by doing multiple coats. I think powder coating is highly underrated in the home workshop. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 I love finishes! I have painted a fleet of cars and trucks, parkerizing, powdercoating, polishing, electroplating... all bring me happiness. Sometimes a project will be a total piece of crap but with a nice finish it gets respect, just no use. When it comes to clearcoats I usualy opt for a two part acrylic urethane (automotive) clear. It dries fairly quicly for additional top coats and nothing shines more than acrylic urethane once color sanded and polished. Im starting to want a milling machine now.
Hi Mark. Thank you for another good clip. Now... "My opinion" :) After purring that epoxy over carbon fiber, you could sand and polished it. It will give really nice surface. It's not necessary of course, but... just for the sake of beauty :) For fitting the brackets to the cast of the machine... epoxy... easy and quick... How about scraping? Long, unnecessary but... will fit it perfect, and give you a nice feeling :) Just remember... you do not have to scrape with scraper :) If you are fitting something coarse, you can do it with angle grinder. You just need enough points of contact.
I did use metal filled epoxy as a bedding filler on the light bracket and it worked great. Just recently I made a bold claim on Instagram that the rack was strong enough to stand on and I was called out on what must have seemed like an idle boast. Just to show off, I did actually climb up and stand on it and it didn't send me crashing to the floor so I'll take that as a win! 😁 Regards, Preso
A really nice looking collet rack. A good use of that wonderful piece of carbon fibre plate. I can appreciate how porous that was after you removed the original paint. Applying epoxy can be frustrating as you experienced. I may have used a foam roller for less particles. With all the tooling you have, I was expecting to see you make the holes with a hollow mill on the CNC machine. LOL Well done. Good to have such a nice custom piece. Dave.
I did actually consider using the foam rollers and I should have know better not to use the cheap fibre roller. I tried to paint a timber floor with a brand new fibre roller and got exactly the same result. When will I learn? Regards, Mark
Good Show Mate...as per normal. Most of the things I have done in the shop are prototypes. Something I've never done before or in a new way. Mark Twain said nothing sapped your energy like knowing how to do a thing...or words similar. Always something new or a little different. Keeps the mind semi sharp.
That's the thing about what maker's do in the home shop. Nearly everything is a prototype. I liken it to a never ending expanding radius of knowledge. Each little foray into the unknown gives you some understanding of what to expect as you move forward. I love the process of taking a process and bending it a little to see if you can use it for some different outcome. Mind you, I had two good outcomes and one spectacular failure today when I was doing some metal casting. Each time I think I have the process nailed I get yanked back to reality. Regards, Mark
"Can't skin a cat without breaking eggs" ahh you ozzies have such funny sayings. Hang on I am an ohzie, I've not heard that one before and it cracked me up (pun intended). Keep it up "Prezo here"!!! Loving ur work....
To make the fiber really pop, use a vacuum bag of PVA film with the shiny side toward the resin. Make sure and push the any bubbles out. What you got came out great for a one off part though
Nice job ! The Bridgie looks ready to go into battle ! Just when i was settling in for some tool trolley porn you censored it 😭 now i will never know what was hiding in that drawer 😂. Thanks for the video !
I must say I have never heard of Starboard. I just Googled it. It reminds me of those composite panels used for RV's. I bet it machines nicely. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 Its used in the marine world when you need strength and something that wont rot. It does machine pretty good and is tougher than fiberglass by a country mile. Cheap too!
Looks awesome, Mark! 😃 I need to make a better holder too... and I suppose get a Bridgeport to put it on 😏. One of these days. Thanks for sharing! Cheers 👍😁👍
11:49 I like the way you talk Mark. Sometimes it sounds like you're from Boston, MA. here in the 'States. Here's your test script: "I parked the car at the Harvard yard, then I went to the party with Harvey" 16:21 You don't have to drag that camera around everywhere, but you would need a whole lot more cameras and you'd be combining a lot more clips 30:50 Looks great!
Greg, my wife and visited Boston back in 2018 and we spent some time at the tourism centre near the Quincy Markets. We could have listened to the guide for hours. The Boston accent is so distinctive and melodious! However I was warned not to try to imitate it as a joke in front of Bostonians! Evidently, that can get you thrown into the Charles River! Regards, Preso
You may have reversed the screw from top to bottom but you also increased the lever action increasing the distance from the point of rotation putting even greater stress on those screws.
That's true but just recently I posted a video on Instagram showing me standing on the carbon fibre shelf. I realised that if the castings cracked or the screws sheared off I was going to get hurt but I can report that I remain uninjured. Whew. 😂
I saw růst allready on shiny parts of BP column... Arent There any rust inhibitory working in your climate? Btw, IT looks that you was good teacher, not many of these anymore... And you stayed in your way... Thanks:-)
hello I always see your video compliments you do a lot of very useful things and they are done very well. Do you have the drawing for this cutter too? thank you greetings Valter Italy Naples thank you
I do have a DXF file of the outline of the carbon fibre rack if that is what you are wanting. Email me mark.presling@gmail.com and I will send it to you free of charge. Regards, Mark
I love the finish of the carbon fiber. Has to old hotrod machine jeweled look, like was done on dashboards. Does the carbon fiber have the same nasty fiber strands, like fiberglass? Great project, and video!
Wouldn't the abrasive properties of carbon fibre wearing against the shanks and tapers of the tooling cause damage over time? perhaps not an issue for a home shop machine.
What, no wet sanding and polishing? ;) I'm sure the thought ran through your head. It turned out great. It's not just the end result but the experience and learning while doing it. Cheers!
You certainly have to think on your feet that's for sure. I did consider wet sanding but if you go right through to the underlying material you have to start again anyway. I didn't expect the carbon fibre weave to be exposed after I sanded off the paint. Regards, Mark
2 runs of 2 component clear coat, wet sanding by hand and polishing with a low cutting/high gloss polish compound and you get a surface finish like formula1 cars, wet sanding is good enough with 2000+ block or stickers to remove orange peel, to seal carbon fiber cuts thin CA glue also work very good, for example in those holes, this is my advice, but you also did a good job, liked it
Maybe make the CF tray removable. Then you can easily remove the tool tray when not in use, and protect your tools from rust. You could turn the rear screw holes into slots, and replace the front screws with knobs.
You haven't seen the disorder in my workshop. I rarely have a horizontal surface free to store anything! Rust and corrosion are my enemies in my workshop too. But it's the price you pay for having the tooling at arms length. If it becomes a real issue I will have to make some sort of cover for it. Regards, Mark
Love your sense of humour. for next time use a thick glad wrap like product taut over the epoxy resin and push the bubbles out... Use more resin... Will give you a perfect finish.
I once coached a team of students in a model solar car challenge. We made the chassis of the car from carbon fibre fabric and moulded it onto a sheet of plate glass using a technique similar to what you have described. It came out like glass on the surface and we figured we were way ahead on engineering until we turned up to the competition and couldn't get the car to perform. We had bolted the solar panel to the chassis via the electrical terminals and it was only producing 3 volts instead of 12. A real life engineer passing by considered our problem and then enlightened us. "You do realise that carbon fibre is a very good conductor of electricity don't you?" Duh! We were effectively shorting out the panel via the chassis. Regards, Mark
If the epoxy hadn't worked, I think I would have used catalyzing clear coat used for automotive paint. You can buy it in a spray can for ~$20 and the stuff dries really nice and is very tough/hard.
Carbon Fiber?? That's so 2018 passe' Mark. For where you are I would have expected a fully French fitted Kowala fur lined tray. :-) But as always a very nice job.
I just googled Boeshield and it is available here. I have used a lanolin based spray that leaves a very clingy waxy/oily film but it's also sticky and not very pleasant to handle. I guess my aim is to eliminate the need for repeated applications of sprays and films by choosing materials and coatings that are a one shot deal. Regards, Mark
blurring out a drawer in a tool box is enough of a reason to comb through every bit of data you have provided, in the effort to locate you. See ya soon ;)
I have some legacy imperial end mills and slot drills! Maybe I should keep them in their packaging for when the USA decides to go metric and they become collectable! 😁
@@Preso58 hahaha they have been threatening to go metric since 1968ish when I was in 1st grade and taught it until 4th! I wish they would actually but most old dogs don't like to learn new tricks.....
I guess it's the price you pay for having the tooling within arms reach. I can actually grab the tools from the front of the mill but I realise they aren't going to stay shiny for long without some sort of maintentance. I've not heard of either of those two products before but I just googled Boeshield and it can be had on Ebay so I'll check it out. I have had good success with lanolin based products but they smell like wet sheep and they can get very sticky too. Regards, Mark
@@Preso58 when you want to use a tool, a little wd-40 or any other solvent carrier on a rag with a quick wipe down of the taper you are good to go. The T-9 itself dries to a "dry" waxy coat but doesn't attract dirt very bad at all. I leave it on the outside of chucks and whatnot but I am careful not to get any on the jaws. Works pretty good in my area (deep south USA and VERY humid). Good luck sir, and thanks for the great videos!!
I cut carbon fiber all the time at home with my router. So prevent burning don’t go over 10kRPM and you will also get a cleaner cut if you use a burr endmill.
I really should have used a sharp carbide hole saw but the blunt version I used pretty much wore it's way through. I did see a video by Joe Pieczinski where he used a carbide burr type milling cutter on some very abrasive composite and it cut like a dream. Regards, Mark
I went to a composites seminar about 10 years ago on the Gold Coast and it was like stepping into a parallel universe. There was a guy from NASA talking about making re-entry vehicles wholly from one piece carbon fibre and another guy selling a system for repairing carbon fibre panels. I sat in on a conference discussing precursors and most of the topic went way over my head but the one thing that stood out at that time was the specialisation required to make the precursors and how difficult it was to scale up production of raw materials. Regards, Mark
Surprisingly, no. Carbon Fibre is very unlike glass fibre. The dust is just like graphite and although it's probably not safe to breathe it doesn't seem to be an irritant. Regards, Mark
No marital aids but a serious case of crapitis! I feel totally incompetent when I watch other maker videos where they open a drawer to show neatly arranged and labelled assortments of brand new carbide tooling arranged by length, diameter and grade of carbide! What I have is a jumble of used and blunt HSS randomly arranged amongst a nest of swarf. Regards, Mark
Yes, well we all know how the Melbourne F1 ended up this year. It's the only race that goes live to air here in Australia and I was hanging out to watch both the quali and the race and it gets cancelled at the last moment! 😥 Regards, Mark
Is it though? Free carbon fibre is basically graphite. When I was cutting the sheet material the dust was just that. It wasn't like grit. Mostly it was just like a powder. We shall see I guess. Regards, Mark
If it proves to be a problem the holes will just have to be enlarged a touch and some bushes made out of a suitable material but I don't think you would ever notice much of a difference in wear.
I think if you pass a torch across the surface the of the wet epoxy, the bubbles will pop and disappear. Look up vids of countertop epoxy guys like "Stone Coat Epoxy" here on youtube.
Why use carbon fibre? Well....the video would be a lot shorter if you just drilled all the holes out of a sheet of aluminum or steel and slapped in on the Bridgeport and got on with it. Where's the fun in that? It's not always about being practical. And, of course, the toxic dust from cutting the CF is always a lot more fun than safe metal ships eh? :-) MARK! Slotted screws? What the heck man?! Just nooooooo. The rack looks amazing!
As a bit of a stunt on Instagram, I climbed up on that rack and it took my full weight (80kg) I suspect that aluminium would bend? I agree that slotted screws are so 20th century but I had them on hand.... Regards, Mark
See if you had cast the profile into the back of the brackets you would have eliminated some of your problems! School teachers will not listen. I am not Shakespeare but I try to help !
You really should at bare minimum wear a proper respirator and have the work area heavily wetted down before grinding, filing, or sanding carbon fibre. The dust is some seriously nasty shit ! You REALLY don't want to risk breathing any of it in.
For a guy in his garage doing these things I think it is simply amazing the things Mark tries AND accomplishes. Almost nothing seems like a stretch! Inspiring...
Well when you figure in that Mark is a former Industrial Tech teacher! He does do some excellent work in that garage and I love the sound effects from the local wildlife!
I noticed the wildlife sounds, too! It sounds like a movie is on in the background sometimes. Hope it’s not a dingo!
Great result Presso, thanks for posting your steps, missteps and triumph! Best of all: a piece of potential landfill becomes a noble part instead!
Great stuff, don’t know what it is with your videos but before watching I get properly comfortable, put the phone and tablet away, grab a drink and watch them distraction free. Can’t think of too many channels I really give my full focus to when watching.
Well, thanks for that. I am glad you find it enjoyable. It give me the motivation to keep going.
Regards,
Mark
turned out beautiful. I keep all my milling tools in a cart with desiccant bags in each drawer to keep down the rust. And every fall I put the desiccant in the microwave to drive off watter. Works well so fair.
Sadly, I am not that organised. I try to keep exposed surfaces oiled but with a wood shop next door there is always a film of dust that gets attracted to the oiled surfaces and the wood dust itself can be corrosive. It's a constant battle.
Regards,
Mark
So satisfying to see your ‘vision’ bear fruit. Beautiful result. 👌👏👏😀
I'm jealous of your beautifully prepped and painted Bridgeport and now you have a carbon fiber tool rack. Too much, I can't take it! 😜 thanks for sharing, always fun to watch and I learn something every time.
When I cut things that create dust, I place it into a container with a piece of HDPE at the bottom so I don't cut through the container. I use a diamond hole saw and add water to just cover the piece. Makes a beautiful cut with no dust and reduces the heat. That is awesome that you can plot it out with the laser. Turned out really fantastic!!!
What a great way to start my day. A cup of Skybar coffee and a Preso video. Can't be beat. What a great finish to an interesting project. Looks fine, will last a long time.
So now your a cool kid!!!! Nice work Mark
Thanks 👍 There's nothing quite as slick as carbon fibre!
lovely work mark!
Looks really good there Mark. Very exotic material and done to the max as usual.
Mark, you made a real nice job of that, very well done, regards from Auckland NZ
Nice work Mark
Wow mark great work a very special piece of work 👍👍
Really nice job Mark. Glad you had the mask. Thanks -Tom
If the Covid doesn't get me the dust will!
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark,
The rack turned out well, you must be pleased...
It was interesting to see McLaren in Woking, I live about 35 miles from there and had a couple of ex McLaren software engineers working for me...
Take care
Paul,,
It was interesting how different it was going from the Red Bull factory to McLaren. At Red Bull we were free to take photos of just about anything and we got right up close to some of the engineers, aerodynamicists and the CNC machines. At McLaren we were forbidden from taking any photos and we had to hand in all our phones and cameras before we entered. We were lead around by two minders who were PR types and not engineers but the tour was off the chart in terms of F1 racing heritage. Bruce McLaren's first Austin 7 was sitting right on the floor along with the 2009 MP4. When we were leaving one of the students we were with picked up a stone from one of the gardens outside the complex and she was swooped on by some security guards who took the stone off her and then checked her phone for any photos that she might have taken after leaving the secure area. Still, it was one of the highlights of my visit to the UK. I subsequently got to tour the Williams factory just before Bottas left for Mercedes.
Regards,
Mark
Thank you you're always very kind. Greetings Valter
Very nice Mark!
That’s a rack to write home about. Great finish.
Very nice Mr P. That won't break anytime soon. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
I put a photo on Instagram, you may have seen it and I boasted that it was strong enough to stand on. Someone challenged me on that. I have to accept the challenge but my wife will have to take the photo.
Regards,
Mark
Nice work
The rack looks great
Thanks 👍
Looks great Preso, and I appreciate you taking us around the shop with you. As always great project and entertaining video.
G’day Mark, good looking rack, you can be proud of that.
Cheers
Peter
I like a nice rack!😁
Thanks for the video Preso. Jumping into the deep end as always. Well done. Keep safe and stay well.
Hi Mark, when using hole saws in thick steel plate they cut faster if a small hole or two , say 6 or 8 mm is drilled just on the cutting line of the holesaw , this allows somewhere for the chips to go and stops the teeth from clogging and slowing the cut, this would probably work for other materials too.. Great videos.
Wicked nice Mark.
HI MARK, NICE LOOKING , STRONG HOLDER. ALL THE CAMERA MOVING IS APPRECIATED.. REGARDS RICHARD.
Beautiful work as always, Preso!
What a beauty! Love it when a plan comes together.
Excellent repurposing, looks great, interesting to hear on your manufacturing approaches.
I worked at a company that manufactures Kevlar control rods for some military aircraft (about 25 mm OD X 1750 mm long) plus other Kevlar products on machine maintenace, the Kevlar dust was getting everywhere, and causing electrical failures on equipment that wasn't dust proof.
Chamfer, without the "P"
Great vlog as per usual, thanks for sharing.
Regards John.
John, there is a local company called Kevlacat that makes large water craft. They had a contract to make water police boats for Papua New Guinea and part of their accreditation process was to show that the Kevlar/ glass fibre composite panel they were using on the vessels was impact resistant. As a joke they set up a test panel on a stand and blasted it with a shotgun. When the vessel was commissioned the PNG police thought it was bullet proof and as a result considered themselves invincible. Sadly, it was not the case and they had to be warned not to go up against armed vessels without some precautions. I think Kevlacat were one of the first companies to be able to successfully bond glass fibre to kevlar. I wonder how damaging carbon fibre dust would be to electrical equipment?
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Hi Mark, standard Glass fibre is pretty tough, adding the Kevlar would certainly improve its impact resistance against sub sonic lead shot! bonding to Kevlar is quite a product. Another product this company made was bullet proof vest liners for use by the Royal Ulster Constabulary (RUC) in Northern Ireland ( this 1989/1990), it was light tan in colour and resembled Hessian in structure, this was cut to shape CNC ( can't remember the actual cutting process), then 12 layers were sewn together in a diagonal Criss cross at 25 mm pitch by industrial manual machines, there were pockets added to add a shaped ceramic plate to offer protection from high velocity rounds.
I only worked at this company for a week, I was on agency work, and got a Friday afternoon call to start the following Monday, there were three full time maintenance guys, one was on long term sick, and the other two had been allowed to book overlapping holiday.
It was quite interesting to see many different processes, in composites, from helmets for the Finnish army, bullet proof doors ( fibre laminated between 8 to 25 mm thick), light weight seats for a military aircraft, light weight truss towers for lighting, and large shrouds for very large deck guns on warships (circa 7 to 9 metre diameter). Only draw back was you itched all the time due to the various fibres airborne. My background is in automotive welding up to then.
It was the overhead crane 3 phase supply tracks and control gear that first became susceptible to the conductive fibres, there was a large grill mesh to the enclosures, this was addressed.
Thanks for replying, enjoying your content, 2020 newbie.
Regards John.
Awesome video as usual....
Just a FYI, I used to build those tables back in 2004 - 2006..
I used to machine nearly every part and fully build by hand..
All the wiring and hoses were also made per machine...lol..
I thought the carbon looked familiar...
Great video. Gorgeous part. Love how you show all the fine adjustments and redos. Problem. Solution. Problem. Solution. Mahalo for sharing! : )🐒
I made R8 holder for the shelf out of a Corian I got from a removed counter top. Worked great
Truth be told, I really wanted to make the shelf out of aluminium but I didn't have any thick enough and as I was looking through my stock of sheet material I moved aside the pieces of carbon fibre and then realised that the CF was just the right thickness and just the right size. Corian would be great too.
Regards,
Mark
Never can accuse you of just giving up! I think it turned out very well, its handsome too. Try this powder coating tip. Ive found that parts that didnt powder coat well and showed pits or dry areas much like the part you experimented with did can be RE powder coated. I was making a very large bushcraft style knife and made the blade from some old 1095 I had on hand. But that piece of steel had seen better days and had some rusting on one side that was fairly deep. I gave the blade a dance in the blast cabinet and decided to PC it but when finished it showed some pitting. I then hand sanded with 150 grit and knocked off all the gloss and kept going when I noticed that the coating was acting like a primer surfacer and filling in the pitted areas. I then repower coated the blade and it came out most excellent and you could not tell anything went wrong before. You just need to be able to ground the part (you guys say earth). Give that a try next time you get your PC stuff set up.
My main problem was that the clear powder coat became cloudy due to some contaminant in the underlying material. I do have some sandable powder coat which is sort of like a primer. As you say, you can go a long way to improving the surface texture by doing multiple coats. I think powder coating is highly underrated in the home workshop.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I love finishes! I have painted a fleet of cars and trucks, parkerizing, powdercoating, polishing, electroplating... all bring me happiness. Sometimes a project will be a total piece of crap but with a nice finish it gets respect, just no use. When it comes to clearcoats I usualy opt for a two part acrylic urethane (automotive) clear. It dries fairly quicly for additional top coats and nothing shines more than acrylic urethane once color sanded and polished. Im starting to want a milling machine now.
Once again, very nice.
Thanks Perry.
Regards,
Mark
Hi Mark.
Thank you for another good clip.
Now... "My opinion" :)
After purring that epoxy over carbon fiber, you could sand and polished it.
It will give really nice surface. It's not necessary of course, but... just for the sake of beauty :)
For fitting the brackets to the cast of the machine... epoxy... easy and quick...
How about scraping? Long, unnecessary but... will fit it perfect, and give you a nice feeling :)
Just remember... you do not have to scrape with scraper :)
If you are fitting something coarse, you can do it with angle grinder. You just need enough points of contact.
I did use metal filled epoxy as a bedding filler on the light bracket and it worked great. Just recently I made a bold claim on Instagram that the rack was strong enough to stand on and I was called out on what must have seemed like an idle boast. Just to show off, I did actually climb up and stand on it and it didn't send me crashing to the floor so I'll take that as a win! 😁
Regards,
Preso
A really nice looking collet rack. A good use of that wonderful piece of carbon fibre plate. I can appreciate how porous that was after you removed the original paint. Applying epoxy can be frustrating as you experienced. I may have used a foam roller for less particles.
With all the tooling you have, I was expecting to see you make the holes with a hollow mill on the CNC machine. LOL
Well done. Good to have such a nice custom piece.
Dave.
I did actually consider using the foam rollers and I should have know better not to use the cheap fibre roller. I tried to paint a timber floor with a brand new fibre roller and got exactly the same result. When will I learn?
Regards,
Mark
Wow that turned out fantastic!
Good Show Mate...as per normal. Most of the things I have done in the shop are prototypes. Something I've never done before or in a new way. Mark Twain said nothing sapped your energy like knowing how to do a thing...or words similar. Always something new or a little different. Keeps the mind semi sharp.
That's the thing about what maker's do in the home shop. Nearly everything is a prototype. I liken it to a never ending expanding radius of knowledge. Each little foray into the unknown gives you some understanding of what to expect as you move forward. I love the process of taking a process and bending it a little to see if you can use it for some different outcome. Mind you, I had two good outcomes and one spectacular failure today when I was doing some metal casting. Each time I think I have the process nailed I get yanked back to reality.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Have you ever noticed, whatever the project, that it almost never goes quite like you had it planned...or is that just me?
"Can't skin a cat without breaking eggs" ahh you ozzies have such funny sayings. Hang on I am an ohzie, I've not heard that one before and it cracked me up (pun intended). Keep it up "Prezo here"!!! Loving ur work....
That looks lovely. Wow.
To make the fiber really pop, use a vacuum bag of PVA film with the shiny side toward the resin. Make sure and push the any bubbles out. What you got came out great for a one off part though
love your channel, keep up the great work
Thanks for sharing!
Nice job !
The Bridgie looks ready to go into battle !
Just when i was settling in for some tool trolley porn you censored it 😭 now i will never know what was hiding in that drawer 😂.
Thanks for the video !
excellent job, well done
Thanks for the visit.
Regards,
Preso
Starboard is another great material for this. Lightweight, cheap and almost as strong as carbon fiber. Get it in black, looks just as good.
I must say I have never heard of Starboard. I just Googled it. It reminds me of those composite panels used for RV's.
I bet it machines nicely.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Its used in the marine world when you need strength and something that wont rot. It does machine pretty good and is tougher than fiberglass by a country mile. Cheap too!
Gday Preso, this looks bloody awesome but did you consider a chrome shelf, that would look the ducks nuts I reckon,
Matty,
Chrome is so 1990! 😁
Regards,
Mark
That looks awesome
Well done that man!
Looks awesome, Mark! 😃 I need to make a better holder too... and I suppose get a Bridgeport to put it on 😏. One of these days. Thanks for sharing! Cheers 👍😁👍
If you had a Bridgeport what would you do with all those indicators?
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 I would bolt them near the cracks in the floor to see how much it shifts every winter and spring! 🤣
Love it, well done!
Glad you like it!
Regards,
Preso
Great job Mark! Brilliantly executed. Is there any way I could get a CAD file of those brackets? :)
Sure, email me at mark.presling@gmail.com
11:49 I like the way you talk Mark. Sometimes it sounds like you're from Boston, MA. here in the 'States. Here's your test script: "I parked the car at the Harvard yard, then I went to the party with Harvey"
16:21 You don't have to drag that camera around everywhere, but you would need a whole lot more cameras and you'd be combining a lot more clips
30:50 Looks great!
Greg, my wife and visited Boston back in 2018 and we spent some time at the tourism centre near the Quincy Markets. We could have listened to the guide for hours. The Boston accent is so distinctive and melodious! However I was warned not to try to imitate it as a joke in front of Bostonians! Evidently, that can get you thrown into the Charles River!
Regards,
Preso
Fully sick mate.
You may have reversed the screw from top to bottom but you also increased the lever action increasing the distance from the point of rotation putting even greater stress on those screws.
That's true but just recently I posted a video on Instagram showing me standing on the carbon fibre shelf. I realised that if the castings cracked or the screws sheared off I was going to get hurt but I can report that I remain uninjured. Whew. 😂
What a show peace, $10,000.00 collet rack. $100,000.00 mill.
Cheers Mark
I saw růst allready on shiny parts of BP column... Arent There any rust inhibitory working in your climate? Btw, IT looks that you was good teacher, not many of these anymore... And you stayed in your way... Thanks:-)
hello I always see your video compliments you do a lot of very useful things and they are done very well. Do you have the drawing for this cutter too? thank you greetings Valter Italy Naples thank you
I do have a DXF file of the outline of the carbon fibre rack if that is what you are wanting. Email me mark.presling@gmail.com and I will send it to you free of charge.
Regards,
Mark
thats really nice
Very nice!
Try a small sponge roller. The surface finish is smoother and it doesn't shed lint.
I love the finish of the carbon fiber. Has to old hotrod machine jeweled look, like was done on dashboards. Does the carbon fiber have the same nasty fiber strands, like fiberglass? Great project, and video!
Ken,
no. Free carbon fibre is like graphite. It is a black insidious powder but not like the itchy strands you get from glass fibre.
Regards,
Mark
Nice job mate! Don't worry about the paint scratches... it's a mill not a Ferrari. Still, you can't make an omelet without skinning a cat
Smashing....just you be careful sanding the carbon fibre
congratulations good job what thickness of carbon fiber? Greetings Valter
It's around 6mm thick or 1/4". It seems to be way stronger than required.
Regards,
Mark
Wouldn't the abrasive properties of carbon fibre wearing against the shanks and tapers of the tooling cause damage over time? perhaps not an issue for a home shop machine.
Gorgeous!
What, no wet sanding and polishing? ;) I'm sure the thought ran through your head. It turned out great. It's not just the end result but the experience and learning while doing it. Cheers!
You certainly have to think on your feet that's for sure. I did consider wet sanding but if you go right through to the underlying material you have to start again anyway. I didn't expect the carbon fibre weave to be exposed after I sanded off the paint.
Regards,
Mark
2 runs of 2 component clear coat, wet sanding by hand and polishing with a low cutting/high gloss polish compound and you get a surface finish like formula1 cars, wet sanding is good enough with 2000+ block or stickers to remove orange peel, to seal carbon fiber cuts thin CA glue also work very good, for example in those holes, this is my advice, but you also did a good job, liked it
Maybe make the CF tray removable. Then you can easily remove the tool tray when not in use, and protect your tools from rust.
You could turn the rear screw holes into slots, and replace the front screws with knobs.
You haven't seen the disorder in my workshop. I rarely have a horizontal surface free to store anything! Rust and corrosion are my enemies in my workshop too. But it's the price you pay for having the tooling at arms length. If it becomes a real issue I will have to make some sort of cover for it.
Regards,
Mark
Nice job Mark. Perfect excuse to buy some more collets! Just saying!
Love your sense of humour. for next time use a thick glad wrap like product taut over the epoxy resin and push the bubbles out... Use more resin... Will give you a perfect finish.
I once coached a team of students in a model solar car challenge. We made the chassis of the car from carbon fibre fabric and moulded it onto a sheet of plate glass using a technique similar to what you have described. It came out like glass on the surface and we figured we were way ahead on engineering until we turned up to the competition and couldn't get the car to perform. We had bolted the solar panel to the chassis via the electrical terminals and it was only producing 3 volts instead of 12. A real life engineer passing by considered our problem and then enlightened us. "You do realise that carbon fibre is a very good conductor of electricity don't you?" Duh! We were effectively shorting out the panel via the chassis.
Regards,
Mark
Oooh carbon fiber lol.
Looks pretty it help dress up the Bridgeport and useful.
If the epoxy hadn't worked, I think I would have used catalyzing clear coat used for automotive paint. You can buy it in a spray can for ~$20 and the stuff dries really nice and is very tough/hard.
Carbon Fiber?? That's so 2018 passe' Mark. For where you are I would have expected a fully French fitted Kowala fur lined tray. :-) But as always a very nice job.
Blondiehacks uses a product called Boeshield T-9 to protect bare metal. It's made by the Boeing Aircraft Company.
I just googled Boeshield and it is available here. I have used a lanolin based spray that leaves a very clingy waxy/oily film but it's also sticky and not very pleasant to handle. I guess my aim is to eliminate the need for repeated applications of sprays and films by choosing materials and coatings that are a one shot deal.
Regards,
Mark
annular cutter and water as lubricate works best. also the water keeps the cancer dust down.
I have a set of annular cutters on my wish list. It's a long list though. 😁
blurring out a drawer in a tool box is enough of a reason to comb through every bit of data you have provided, in the effort to locate you. See ya soon ;)
I always wrap these rollers in masking tape, the fibers stick to the masking tape that i pull off and don't end up in the painted surface.
Good idea. Straight out of the packaging they are worse than useless.
Regards,
Mark
Awesome job mate love it.
That looks fantastic! Imperial....have come over to the dark side! hahaha
I have some legacy imperial end mills and slot drills! Maybe I should keep them in their packaging for when the USA decides to go metric and they become collectable! 😁
@@Preso58 hahaha they have been threatening to go metric since 1968ish when I was in 1st grade and taught it until 4th! I wish they would actually but most old dogs don't like to learn new tricks.....
Boeshield or LPS #3 to keep em from rusting. Need to wipe down bf use (especially with the LPS, it's waxy!)...
I guess it's the price you pay for having the tooling within arms reach. I can actually grab the tools from the front of the mill but I realise they aren't going to stay shiny for long without some sort of maintentance. I've not heard of either of those two products before but I just googled Boeshield and it can be had on Ebay so I'll check it out. I have had good success with lanolin based products but they smell like wet sheep and they can get very sticky too.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 when you want to use a tool, a little wd-40 or any other solvent carrier on a rag with a quick wipe down of the taper you are good to go. The T-9 itself dries to a "dry" waxy coat but doesn't attract dirt very bad at all. I leave it on the outside of chucks and whatnot but I am careful not to get any on the jaws. Works pretty good in my area (deep south USA and VERY humid). Good luck sir, and thanks for the great videos!!
I cut carbon fiber all the time at home with my router. So prevent burning don’t go over 10kRPM and you will also get a cleaner cut if you use a burr endmill.
I really should have used a sharp carbide hole saw but the blunt version I used pretty much wore it's way through. I did see a video by Joe Pieczinski where he used a carbide burr type milling cutter on some very abrasive composite and it cut like a dream.
Regards,
Mark
Apparently carbon fibre using a wholly indigenous precursor has only been accomplished in the last few years in Australia.
I went to a composites seminar about 10 years ago on the Gold Coast and it was like stepping into a parallel universe. There was a guy from NASA talking about making re-entry vehicles wholly from one piece carbon fibre and another guy selling a system for repairing carbon fibre panels. I sat in on a conference discussing precursors and most of the topic went way over my head but the one thing that stood out at that time was the specialisation required to make the precursors and how difficult it was to scale up production of raw materials.
Regards,
Mark
I'd just chuck that mill in the bin. If the paint can't handle a few test fits, you don't need that kind of frustration!
Flasher than Michael Jackson !
Itchy fingers and hands after that lot?
Surprisingly, no. Carbon Fibre is very unlike glass fibre. The dust is just like graphite and although it's probably not safe to breathe it doesn't seem to be an irritant.
Regards,
Mark
Awesome
Hi, why open a drawer and blur it?
It's a joke, implying that he had "marital aids" in the drawer which were not suitable for general audiences on RUclips.
@@BravoCharleses hilarious
No marital aids but a serious case of crapitis! I feel totally incompetent when I watch other maker videos where they open a drawer to show neatly arranged and labelled assortments of brand new carbide tooling arranged by length, diameter and grade of carbide! What I have is a jumble of used and blunt HSS randomly arranged amongst a nest of swarf.
Regards,
Mark
@@Preso58 Live a little, Presso. :-P
Yeah with that weight reduction, I reckon the Bridgeport has shaved 2/10s off it’s lap time of Albert Park. 🏎🤓
Yes, well we all know how the Melbourne F1 ended up this year. It's the only race that goes live to air here in Australia and I was hanging out to watch both the quali and the race and it gets cancelled at the last moment! 😥
Regards,
Mark
Carbon fiber is going to be very abrasive to the taper on your R-8 tool shanks.
Is it though? Free carbon fibre is basically graphite. When I was cutting the sheet material the dust was just that. It wasn't like grit. Mostly it was just like a powder.
We shall see I guess.
Regards,
Mark
If it proves to be a problem the holes will just have to be enlarged a touch and some bushes made out of a suitable material but I don't think you would ever notice much of a difference in wear.
I think if you pass a torch across the surface the of the wet epoxy, the bubbles will pop and disappear. Look up vids of countertop epoxy guys like "Stone Coat Epoxy" here on youtube.
He did.
next time try soapy water to drill with like oil you will find it drills better smoother cut
Thanks. The dust from that stuff gets everywhere.
Regards,
Mark
Why use carbon fibre? Well....the video would be a lot shorter if you just drilled all the holes out of a sheet of aluminum or steel and slapped in on the Bridgeport and got on with it. Where's the fun in that? It's not always about being practical. And, of course, the toxic dust from cutting the CF is always a lot more fun than safe metal ships eh? :-) MARK! Slotted screws? What the heck man?! Just nooooooo. The rack looks amazing!
As a bit of a stunt on Instagram, I climbed up on that rack and it took my full weight (80kg) I suspect that aluminium would bend? I agree that slotted screws are so 20th century but I had them on hand....
Regards,
Mark
👍👍😎👍👍
See
if you had cast the profile into the back of the brackets you would have eliminated some of your problems!
School teachers will not listen. I am not Shakespeare but I try to help !
Nice. M
You really should at bare minimum wear a proper respirator and have the work area heavily wetted down before grinding, filing, or sanding carbon fibre. The dust is some seriously nasty shit ! You REALLY don't want to risk breathing any of it in.
A wise man once said "nothing too strong ever broke".
Are you ichy