Part two of building a collet rack to hold 2J collets for a lathe in my machine shop. In this video, we use both woodworking and machinist skills together to finish this project up.
Its got to be nice to get back out to the shop and knock out a little project like that after all the traveling and working on the home shop the past few months! Thanks for the video, Keith!!
Comments:Myths,old wives tales and opinions. Hilarious,enjoyable reading. Red Oak acid and corroded screws!!! Keith your projects do bring out the best.
+Rick Brandt Rick - if your screws are zinc plated (as mine were), there is no problem with putting them in oak. Unplated steel - that would be a problem....
Great looking rack. The wood sides is a nice touch, as alu and oak looks nice together. Good job, and great idea for the home shop. Thanks Keith, always a pleasure to watch your informative videos.
I heard the fan running. I've been working in the greenhouse and it's been 95 and better with the door open and vent fan on. Wished you'd been here to help me with the angles because a diesel powered guy is NOT a carpenter in the loosest sense of the word BUT I'm living proof that the Almighty takes care of His goofy younguns and gives them what they need. The thing hasn't fallen in yet which is no credit to me and your shop is BEAUTIFUL!!
Looks good Keith. I also have a collet rack for my 5c's, and not happy with it either. They are something ya don't think of often. Now you have my wheels going in my head to fix it. That's kinda what this is all about with the videos. Thanks
I'm amazed how straight a cut you got using that wobbly-looking miter gauge. I would have thought you'd need a taper attachment. Your method seemed to work though, so Bravo!
+Rick Rose A taper attachment would have been a much better (and safer) way to do the job, but they don't have one at the museum. I have "somewhere" at my home shop but it is packed up and I have not seen it in years. Looking forward to getting my wood shop set up again in my new shop!
That,s going to look great and be very handy when needing a collet fast quick and in a hurry, mine ore sticking straight up and love to collect dust. So thanks Keith for the tip stay safe.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org It,s always a pleasure and for me a way to learn something new, Thank you Keith for you great videos, And with all that you have going on can find time to always have a kind word to your viewers. Stay safe
A trick I used to make slightly bigger holes with bi-metal hole saws was to put them in a vice and squeeze them slightly oval shaped. The saws cut a wider path through the metal, but I got my holes the exact size I needed. I did have to make test holes and adjust how much I squeezed them in the vice, but I did get my holes just like I wanted them. This may help when you make your next rack if it uses an odd size hole.
That turned out really great. I was thinking about the height difference between the two racks and thought that you could create a wood base on the small rack to match the height of the taller one. Maybe even add a drawer to it for whatever small odds and ends that might be associated for collet uses. Would kind of make a yin-yang of wood and metal usage.
I love watching your videos and I have really learned a lot. I am retired and find it hard to find it hard to find the time to watch my favorite channels. Maybe you can share where you get your 36 hour days. I am amazed at all you do.
+Charles Shanafelt Le't see - I get up at 5:00am most mornings and I stay busy until dark or later! My wife just does not get the fact that I go to the shop and work to relax.....
That collet rack looks very smart, i've always liked this style. Mostly because you can hold them up like this, or, if you've space line them on a bench. Either way, the collets are easily accessible. Far better than a drawer or the other style where you hang them on pins up side down (never liked that one).
Nice work on the collet rack keith, good video. Funny how those holes required the multiple steps (annualar cutter, reamer, dremel)... that's how every project I attempt goes! :)
I had to drill a similar board once, and used a Conecut to open the holes slightly. It has the advantage of being used in the drill press, AND giving a slight;y wider mouth to the holes to guide the items into place. All depends on the angle the front fits at, though, as I suspect it might not grip the sides of the inserted items as effectively as the reamed holes do.
Better than Phillips-head screws: Robertson-head screws. Maybe even more historically accurate; because they were in use since about 1908. The Model T Ford used about 700 of them.
Great video Keith. I'm getting a big kick out of the people telling you all of the things you are doing wrong. Hilarious! One guy said something about oak damaging your screws and you should have used stainless. You know one day you are going to walk in the shop and all your collets will be on the floor because of those screws not being stainless! LOLOL Thanks as always Keith
+Tom Wilcox That "someone" was not wrong,, Oak is very acidic, and in my day if we had to use steel screws we pre drilled the Oak and coated the screws with tallow, it eased them so they didn't break, but more importantly to hold off the acid !
+chris bond I got interested after all of this acid in oak talk. I have several pieces of oak furniture that I have made in the last 15-20 years so I removed several fasteners in these pieces to inspect. I have red oak furniture in my living room and white oak in the dining room and bed room. Guess what I found ? Nothing! They look brand new. They were not stainless or any of the battery acid resistant fasteners. Want to come check the furniture out? Or I can send you photos. Sorry to disappoint everybody. I did try to prove you right.
+chris bond had no idea you were in the UK. I have never seen a piece of oak from England much less used any. That's a total different ballgame. I have never heard of this problem in the states. My deepest apologies. Have a nice day.
Another great video.. Love the mix of wood and metal . Just a thought...you could add a "top" section to the rack for holding some adaptors you commonly use?
keith a little tip get a old electric pipe threader head and make a reamer holder to fit in he threader motor so you can power ream holes with the adjustable reamers it turns real slow and makes a perfect reamer drive
When you build the big collet rack you do realize that you are going to have to build a bigger building. Maybe you could get one of those rotary racks like the big box stores use for Carpet rolls or electrical wiring. Just push the button until the shelf you want comes down. Still think you should have left the long side on the rack and stamped Made By K. Rucker on it.
It is *really* nice to see how this project turned out Keith!!! I wondered if you were going to perhaps punch the size above each 'socket' with a set of fractional number punches?
Keith, I enjoy your RUclips postings. Both the work and home items are great. Please use ear protection with saws use. Or you will be wearing hearing aids, like I have do now.
Just an idea on the 22J's. How about making a rack that is only say 3 rows high, but extends the width of both your other racks? Then they can fit on a single shelf right below the others. Guess it would really come down to space layout if you have more room horz or vert in the location they are to be mounted.
Might be time for a new blade on the Dewalt as it seemed to struggle a bit. Could you have run that hand reamer in the drill press to maintain alignment and to not have to crank it all by hand or do you think it would be too grabby?
+bcbloc02 The man that allowed me to tinker on his lathe (many moons ago) had a set of adjustable reamers, he was extremely protective of them. I got the impression that they were somewhat delicate and easy to damage if they got bound up in the work. I think you would not get the kind of feedback to know if something was starting to go wrong if you tried using them in a machine.
+bcbloc02 The Radial Arm Saw blade could use a good sharpening. As for the reamers, the shank was way too big to chuck up in a drill press - or even in my mill.
Nicely done. Goes to show you how using quality materials makes a big difference in the final product. I See you have a DeWalt 940 Radial Arm Saw. I just finished overhauling a model 754 that I bought from a guy for $50. Any Idea what year it might be? I'm thinking 70's. Thanks for another entertaining video.
+R.M. Hobbycrafts Thank you. The DeWalt Radial Arm Saw belongs to the museum and I am sure that they purchased it in the early 1970's when they were setting up the shop there.
looks good... as you made the ends i was wondering if the length of the collets and the angle that they sit at may mean the bottom row would hit the bench... but it looked like a good fit
2 a, 2 j, er etc. what is the difference between all these collet numbers, can some explain what's fits south Bend 1307, 1 1-7/8, best fit, uses and 3 c. I wish there was a buying guide? that's good information for us newer users
hi Keith love the videos. had a question. is there a certain milling machine you would suggest for someone who is new to it. I have never used one before but I'm growing increasingly interested in machine shop hobbies. I have a good sized drill press is there a way to convert it? thanks.
+John Biggs I'm just getting in to machining my self, after having done some machining at the university where I study mechanical engineering. I would not recommend you try convert your drill press. The entire construction of a drill press is made to take on primarily axial forces, and thus does not handle lateral forces very well at all. For milling you need good rigidity and strength in all directions, and your bearings need to be made such that they can handle large forces in all directions. And besides, it is convenient to have both a milling machine and a drill press since you don't have to switch tools on the milling machine all the time.
+John Biggs John, Others have already chimed in about not converting your drill press to a milling machine. It is possible to do some light milling on a heavy duty drill press but it is really not made for doing that kind of work. If I were you, I would be on the lookout for a Bridgeport or a clone of one or something similar like my Wells Index. I am not a big fan of the modern import mills - the benchtop type - but they can do decent work if they are in good condition.
Keith - How do you plan on mounting the racks? Table top or wall? If on a wall (to save workbench space) how do you plan on hanging them? Especially with the planned 22J collets, the loaded rack will be heavy!
Im just thinking about.... is'nt it kinda bad habit using the calliper for scratching a mark. and what if the callipers tip is rounded so it doesnt work for scratching anymore, will you actually sharpen it?. guess in practice this will probably never happen....
+Mirko Mueller It's not a bad habit i do it all the time but i use cheapo calipers,when they wear down just grind both the outside bottom faces of the jaws as this will only reduce the length of the jaw and doesn't affect the measuring distance.
+Mirko Mueller Calipers don't last forever and there is not doubt that using them like that will wear them down over time. But, I have them to use and I use them. When they need to be replaced, that is what I will do. With the parts being hardened, they don't wear very fast.
+Mirko Mueller I have 2 calipers specially made for scratching. One type has a roller and a scriber that can be sharpened instead of the usual jaws. These are cheap from China. The other quality one has carbide tips on the jaws that also are slightly different length. This works well on steel as well. I don´t think wear is much of an issue for soft non abrasive materials such as aluminum.
I have the exact same Dewalt Radial Arm Saw, bought it new, it’s now over 40 years old and I still use the original 12” blade guards. What’s with you Yanks? Tossing the guards away and using saws like this Dewalt and that table saw without guards, gives you bigger Balls? I just hope you include the stupidity of cutting your fingers off in your future videos just like RUclipsrs thintz12 from ruclips.net/video/u7sRrC2Jpp4/видео.html.Aw yeah! Don’t think I didn’t notice the Dewalt kickback when crosscutting the end pieces to the collet rack! Why do I watch… to remind me what NOT to do. And, as for putting timber sides to a collect rack how retarded can you get, should have used the same aluminum material for the sides also.
Glad to see my hatred of those stupid radial arm saws is well justified and not simply because my experience with them was with a crappy craftsman unit. Your professional Dewalt still auto feeds just as bad. What a suicidaly stupid design. Thank god they have disappeared and been replaced with a miter saw. My father lost a finger to that saw, though not because of the auto feed. You need to make sure the blade has stopped before sticking you hand in there to grab the piece of wood....duhh Nice collet rack. Simple and clean. The aluminum might help prevent rust on your collets too by galvanically protecting them.
+Barry Gerbracht I am not a big fan of radial arm saws either. I have one for my home shop, but it is a Monarch Uni-point - a much improved design over your traditional radial arm saw. I still would rather use my sliding compound miter saw for most cuts though.
Its got to be nice to get back out to the shop and knock out a little project like that after all the traveling and working on the home shop the past few months! Thanks for the video, Keith!!
+Brian Streufert Indeed it is - things have been way too crazy here lately!
Comments:Myths,old wives tales and opinions.
Hilarious,enjoyable reading.
Red Oak acid and corroded screws!!!
Keith your projects do bring out the best.
+Rick Brandt Rick - if your screws are zinc plated (as mine were), there is no problem with putting them in oak. Unplated steel - that would be a problem....
Wow, 22J collets. Never saw one of those before. That is going to be the collet rack on steroids! Very nice build Keith. Thanks for the videos.
Nice to have those collet racks for different sizes.Will look great in a long row on a shelf in your new shop!
+Rob Gerrits Yep, I cannot wait to get it all set up!
Great looking rack. The wood sides is a nice touch, as alu and oak looks nice together. Good job, and great idea for the home shop. Thanks Keith, always a pleasure to watch your informative videos.
+Arnljot Seem Thank you!
Aluminum and wood, neat combination. Thanks for sharing Keith!
+chevy250ss Thank you!
What a great addition to the shop , Thumbs up Keith !!
+ShawnMrFixitlee Thank you Shawn!
WOW, So many Collets, so little time. a very large collection. I also like your Rack better than the store bought. Congrats.
+Garry Fuller Sr Thank you!
I heard the fan running. I've been working in the greenhouse and it's been 95 and better with the door open and vent fan on. Wished you'd been here to help me with the angles because a diesel powered guy is NOT a carpenter in the loosest sense of the word BUT I'm living proof that the Almighty takes care of His goofy younguns and gives them what they need. The thing hasn't fallen in yet which is no credit to me and your shop is BEAUTIFUL!!
+Lewie McNeely Yeah, we have already had some 90 degree days down here in South Georgia.
MERCY! That's about all I can think of to say and summer isn't even close in yet.
Great work!
Looks nice!
Cool mod on the smaller one too!
Thanx Keith!
+captainjerk Thank you!
Looks good Keith. I also have a collet rack for my 5c's, and not happy with it either. They are something ya don't think of often. Now you have my wheels going in my head to fix it. That's kinda what this is all about with the videos. Thanks
+Terry LaRotonda Glad to get you thinking!
Nice to see a woodworking video every once in a while! I look forward to chatting with you again in June at Stan's!
+Sean Harrington Thanks Sean - looking forward to the BASH as well!
Great looking rack. Much better than the bought one.
+Panzax Thank you - I agree!
Looks good Keith, nice addition to your shop.
I'm amazed how straight a cut you got using that wobbly-looking miter gauge. I would have thought you'd need a taper attachment. Your method seemed to work though, so Bravo!
+Rick Rose A taper attachment would have been a much better (and safer) way to do the job, but they don't have one at the museum. I have "somewhere" at my home shop but it is packed up and I have not seen it in years. Looking forward to getting my wood shop set up again in my new shop!
Great ideas and another project done with finesse. Greg
+Charles Compton Thanks Greg!
Great job as always. I always learn some thing new from you and a lot of the youtube
sites. Thank You
+Frank Patti Sr. Thank you Frank!
That really turned out nicely!
Nice Job Keith, really cool, love your videos, keep on posting.regards. Rudy.
+Rudy Martin Thank you Rudy!
.
That'll do, Keith. That'll do.
As usual nice job, good presentation.
.
+greathodgy22 Thank you!
Nice job Keith. Plenty of spare holes for additions. regards from the UK
excellent work Keith , that collet rack looks very handy .
+Lynton Rodda Thank you!
Sure is a nice selection, and a great way to keep them handy
+Jack Hoying Thanks Jack!
That covers one heck of a huge set of collets! handy series. Heck of a nice job Keith.
The 22J is a handsome size collet.
+ChrisB257 Thanks - the 22J is nice to have on bigger lathes.
Nice Rack!! Really. Nice project. I have minimal collection but that is perfect. Will copy it.
+Doug Bourdo Thanks - pretty easy to replicate!
That,s going to look great and be very handy when needing a collet fast quick and in a hurry, mine ore sticking straight up and love to collect dust. So thanks Keith for the tip stay safe.
+Randall Moore Thank you for watching!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org It,s always a pleasure and for me a way to learn something new, Thank you Keith for you great videos, And with all that you have going on can find time to always have a kind word to your viewers. Stay safe
The new rack looks way more professional than the first one and will last a lot longer as well.
+ryzo mcgregor No doubt it will outlast that imported piece of crap....
A trick I used to make slightly bigger holes with bi-metal hole saws was to put them in a vice and squeeze them slightly oval shaped. The saws cut a wider path through the metal, but I got my holes the exact size I needed. I did have to make test holes and adjust how much I squeezed them in the vice, but I did get my holes just like I wanted them. This may help when you make your next rack if it uses an odd size hole.
+Ben Proveaux That might work on a bi-metal hole saw, but you won't easily bend an annual cutter!
That turned out really great. I was thinking about the height difference between the two racks and thought that you could create a wood base on the small rack to match the height of the taller one. Maybe even add a drawer to it for whatever small odds and ends that might be associated for collet uses. Would kind of make a yin-yang of wood and metal usage.
I love watching your videos and I have really learned a lot. I am retired and find it hard to find it hard to find the time to watch my favorite channels. Maybe you can share where you get your 36 hour days. I am amazed at all you do.
+Charles Shanafelt Le't see - I get up at 5:00am most mornings and I stay busy until dark or later! My wife just does not get the fact that I go to the shop and work to relax.....
that looks amazing.. love it.. if i had any collets i would buy that off you . take care
Lovely job. Very neat
great project Keith I have just started my collection of ER32 collets so will be making a rack soon
Nice job ,I like the oak sides nice touch.
+My home machine shop HS53 I like it too - a nice contrast - and easier to work and cheaper than metal....
It really looks great!
+Wayne Phillips Thank you!
Looks great!
+MattsMotorz Thank you!
Beautiful job Keith
+one4stevo Thanks Steve!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
+ELSDP-45 THANK YOU... for watching!
The rack looks great! I think I'd probably put a little chamfer on all of the holes to help you hit the hole when you're putting the collets in.
+fillg It has a small chamfer, but I don't have a tool big enough to make it much bigger.
Love the job you did with a non important sized rack, and it looks good!
Thank you for the upload.
Take care
mrbluenun
+mrbluenun Thank you!
Looks great Keith!
+Glenn Martin Thank you!
Don't forget about what are called "emergency" collets that can be drilled and bored to a custom size when you need to.
+Keith Ward I don't have any now, but I probably will keep one on hand just in case...
Your collet rack looks much better than the other, Ithink that if one was produced like your's it would be $250-300.
Very nice - thank you!
+Arlyn Smith Thanks for watching!
That collet rack looks very smart, i've always liked this style. Mostly because you can hold them up like this, or, if you've space line them on a bench. Either way, the collets are easily accessible. Far better than a drawer or the other style where you hang them on pins up side down (never liked that one).
+aserta Thanks - I like it!
Nice work on the collet rack keith, good video. Funny how those holes required the multiple steps (annualar cutter, reamer, dremel)... that's how every project I attempt goes! :)
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Yessir! No matter how simple something looks there's ALWAYS something lurking inn the shadows!
+Lewie McNeely No doubt!
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra If I could have bought an annual cutter that was 0.010 oversize, it would not have been an issue.... Oh well....
One must make do with what one has, one must!
Nice build Keith thanks
+Tom Bellus Thank you Tom!
I had to drill a similar board once, and used a Conecut to open the holes slightly. It has the advantage of being used in the drill press, AND giving a slight;y wider mouth to the holes to guide the items into place. All depends on the angle the front fits at, though, as I suspect it might not grip the sides of the inserted items as effectively as the reamed holes do.
+Mark Sinden I will have to look into one of those.
Better than Phillips-head screws: Robertson-head screws. Maybe even more historically accurate; because they were in use since about 1908. The Model T Ford used about 700 of them.
keith nice job.
+Robert Kutz Thank you!
Great video Keith. I'm getting a big kick out of the people telling you all of the things you are doing wrong. Hilarious! One guy said something about oak damaging your screws and you should have used stainless. You know one day you are going to walk in the shop and all your collets will be on the floor because of those screws not being stainless! LOLOL Thanks as always Keith
+Tom Wilcox That "someone" was not wrong,, Oak is very acidic, and in my day if we had to use steel screws we pre drilled the Oak and coated the screws with tallow, it eased them so they didn't break, but more importantly to hold off the acid !
+chris bond I got interested after all of this acid in oak talk. I have several pieces of oak furniture that I have made in the last 15-20 years so I removed several fasteners in these pieces to inspect. I have red oak furniture in my living room and white oak in the dining room and bed room. Guess what I found ? Nothing! They look brand new. They were not stainless or any of the battery acid resistant fasteners. Want to come check the furniture out? Or I can send you photos. Sorry to disappoint everybody. I did try to prove you right.
+Tom Wilcox clearly there is a big difference between the oak you have and the English Oak we used to use here in England.
+chris bond had no idea you were in the UK. I have never seen a piece of oak from England much less used any. That's a total different ballgame. I have never heard of this problem in the states. My deepest apologies. Have a nice day.
+Tom Wilcox Oak can be acidic with all of the tannin in it. But, if your steel screws are zinc coated, it is not going to be a problem....
looking great Keith,i feel your pain on straight slit screws lol.
+Scott Tyndall They are not that bad. I like the looks of them over Phillips.
I can agree with the looks aspect
Jeez, that big reamer sitting there looked like some kind of power tool until you picked it up.
+jocmarti LOL - it was a power tool, with me powering it!
time to make a collet block for the big boys
+bubbajoexxx That is probably on the list of things to build!
Another great video.. Love the mix of wood and metal . Just a thought...you could add a "top" section to the rack for holding some adaptors you commonly use?
+PKinPa I planned it so that I could do something like that down the road!
keith a little tip get a old electric pipe threader head and make a reamer holder to fit in he threader motor so you can power ream holes with the adjustable reamers it turns real slow and makes a perfect reamer drive
+bubbajoexxx That sounds pretty cool!
hi keith fantastic job
+Andy Coakes yep, now he can play connect 4 with collets!
+Andy Coakes Thanks Andy!
When you build the big collet rack you do realize that you are going to have to build a bigger building. Maybe you could get one of those rotary racks like the big box stores use for Carpet rolls or electrical wiring. Just push the button until the shelf you want comes down. Still think you should have left the long side on the rack and stamped Made By K. Rucker on it.
+Big'un44 I love it - the rolling rack is a great idea. Not sure how practical that would be o build/buy, but I love it!
Excellent!
....13
+arkansas13 Thank you!
It is *really* nice to see how this project turned out Keith!!!
I wondered if you were going to perhaps punch the size above each 'socket' with a set of fractional number punches?
+morelenmir I probably won't go to the trouble - you can read the stamp on the collet just fine.
Keith, I enjoy your RUclips postings. Both the work and home items are great. Please use ear protection with saws use. Or you will be wearing hearing aids, like I have do now.
+Larry Blount I am afraid that hearing aids are in my future no matter what.
+Larry Blount I am afraid that hearing aids are in my future no matter what.
Just an idea on the 22J's. How about making a rack that is only say 3 rows high, but extends the width of both your other racks? Then they can fit on a single shelf right below the others. Guess it would really come down to space layout if you have more room horz or vert in the location they are to be mounted.
+bsb0011 Not a bad idea!
Might be time for a new blade on the Dewalt as it seemed to struggle a bit. Could you have run that hand reamer in the drill press to maintain alignment and to not have to crank it all by hand or do you think it would be too grabby?
+bcbloc02 The man that allowed me to tinker on his lathe (many moons ago) had a set of adjustable reamers, he was extremely protective of them. I got the impression that they were somewhat delicate and easy to damage if they got bound up in the work. I think you would not get the kind of feedback to know if something was starting to go wrong if you tried using them in a machine.
+bcbloc02 The Radial Arm Saw blade could use a good sharpening. As for the reamers, the shank was way too big to chuck up in a drill press - or even in my mill.
Nicely done. Goes to show you how using quality materials makes a big difference in the final product. I See you have a DeWalt 940 Radial Arm Saw. I just finished overhauling a model 754 that I bought from a guy for $50. Any Idea what year it might be? I'm thinking 70's. Thanks for another entertaining video.
+R.M. Hobbycrafts Thank you. The DeWalt Radial Arm Saw belongs to the museum and I am sure that they purchased it in the early 1970's when they were setting up the shop there.
looks good... as you made the ends i was wondering if the length of the collets and the angle that they sit at may mean the bottom row would hit the bench... but it looked like a good fit
+Richard Ashman I did check that out ahead of time as I was concerned about the same thing.
make wood sides for your small one would look nice
very nice work
2 a, 2 j, er etc. what is the difference between all these collet numbers, can some explain what's fits south Bend 1307, 1 1-7/8, best fit, uses and 3 c. I wish there was a buying guide? that's good information for us newer users
is that a steel fence on your RAS?
hi Keith love the videos. had a question. is there a certain milling machine you would suggest for someone who is new to it. I have never used one before but I'm growing increasingly interested in machine shop hobbies. I have a good sized drill press is there a way to convert it? thanks.
+John Biggs I'm just getting in to machining my self, after having done some machining at the university where I study mechanical engineering.
I would not recommend you try convert your drill press. The entire construction of a drill press is made to take on primarily axial forces, and thus does not handle lateral forces very well at all. For milling you need good rigidity and strength in all directions, and your bearings need to be made such that they can handle large forces in all directions.
And besides, it is convenient to have both a milling machine and a drill press since you don't have to switch tools on the milling machine all the time.
+John Biggs John, Others have already chimed in about not converting your drill press to a milling machine. It is possible to do some light milling on a heavy duty drill press but it is really not made for doing that kind of work. If I were you, I would be on the lookout for a Bridgeport or a clone of one or something similar like my Wells Index. I am not a big fan of the modern import mills - the benchtop type - but they can do decent work if they are in good condition.
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org thank you for the feed back. I will keep my eye out for the right mill.
+neistridlar thanks for the feed back I will be sure to look for a good mill.
Keith - How do you plan on mounting the racks? Table top or wall? If on a wall (to save workbench space) how do you plan on hanging them? Especially with the planned 22J collets, the loaded rack will be heavy!
+cemx86 I would go with Skyhooks.
+cemx86 It would also be a good application for French Cleat system.
+cemx86 I will probably either put them on something or build a shelf for them to sit on.
hgrauctions on ebay have been selling a lot of these collets for nearly nothing.A lot of different sizes.
+T.R. RACKLEY They are fairly common.
You are going to need a bigger shop.
+James Kerns Probably so...
Im just thinking about.... is'nt it kinda bad habit using the calliper for scratching a mark. and what if the callipers tip is rounded so it doesnt work for scratching anymore, will you actually sharpen it?. guess in practice this will probably never happen....
+Mirko Mueller It's not a bad habit i do it all the time but i use cheapo calipers,when they wear down just grind both the outside bottom faces of the jaws as this will only reduce the length of the jaw and doesn't affect the measuring distance.
+Mirko Mueller Calipers don't last forever and there is not doubt that using them like that will wear them down over time. But, I have them to use and I use them. When they need to be replaced, that is what I will do. With the parts being hardened, they don't wear very fast.
+Mirko Mueller I have 2 calipers specially made for scratching. One type has a roller and a scriber that can be sharpened instead of the usual jaws. These are cheap from China. The other quality one has carbide tips on the jaws that also are slightly different length. This works well on steel as well. I don´t think wear is much of an issue for soft non abrasive materials such as aluminum.
Mmmm, steel screws into Oak?Should be brass 9or stainless these days.
Oak will corrode steel over time.
+Peter Fletcher Zinc coated....
I have the exact same Dewalt Radial Arm Saw, bought it new, it’s now over 40 years old and I still use the original 12” blade guards.
What’s with you Yanks? Tossing the guards away and using saws like this Dewalt and that table saw without guards, gives you bigger Balls? I just hope you include the stupidity of cutting your fingers off in your future videos just like RUclipsrs thintz12 from ruclips.net/video/u7sRrC2Jpp4/видео.html.Aw yeah! Don’t think I didn’t notice the Dewalt kickback when crosscutting the end pieces to the collet rack!
Why do I watch… to remind me what NOT to do. And, as for putting timber sides to a collect rack how retarded can you get, should have used the same aluminum material for the sides also.
Glad to see my hatred of those stupid radial arm saws is well justified and not simply because my experience with them was with a crappy craftsman unit. Your professional Dewalt still auto feeds just as bad. What a suicidaly stupid design. Thank god they have disappeared and been replaced with a miter saw. My father lost a finger to that saw, though not because of the auto feed. You need to make sure the blade has stopped before sticking you hand in there to grab the piece of wood....duhh
Nice collet rack. Simple and clean. The aluminum might help prevent rust on your collets too by galvanically protecting them.
+Barry Gerbracht I am not a big fan of radial arm saws either. I have one for my home shop, but it is a Monarch Uni-point - a much improved design over your traditional radial arm saw. I still would rather use my sliding compound miter saw for most cuts though.