Jan - I actually use Triple Backbutton focus with the R5 using the AF-on, * and the button next to *. The AF-on button is set to single point af, the * button is animal eye detect and the third button is animal eye-detect with a 1.3 stop increase in exposure (with auto iso) This third button lets me instantly increase the exposure if photographing Birds in Flight with a bright sky. Works great for me :-)
Right on! Thanks guys this is super helpful just last night i was missing shots with shoot and focus on the front. New to photography and your shows are interesting and pragmatic :) God bless you guys :)
I've never seen a reason to remove the auto focus and eye tracking from the front shutter button even when using back buttons at times. At some time in the past people were focusing and recomposing but tracking and eye auto focus makes that unnecessary now. I'm using tracking and eye auto focus on my front button all of the time and then only use a backbutton when I want to switch to single point auto focus or to drop the shutter speed for lower iso with a stationary subject and still have eye tracking. This hybrid front and back button focusing is working great for me on my Sony and my Canon cameras. For sudden action and birds in flight I'm on the front shutter button with eye tracking with no problems, with special situations I grab one of the 2 back buttons I have set up. Holding one of them down 1st overrides the front button's af settings. It even works well if I ever hand the camera to someone else and they can just use the front shutter. The af setting I switch sometimes is going from wide tracking to center point or expanded point(sony) tracking on the front button in the menu when I want to pick something out sometimes.
I do the same when using my R5 and R7. In this setup I can get 3 different AF presetup. It works great for me that the back buttons overriding the front buttons AF.
I LOVE dual back button focus on my Canon R5 and have happily used it for the past year. I learned about it from you, Jan, so many thanks for that. This was an excellent discussion of the benefits.
@ 8:35 when you start talking about shooting with a cable release is a non issue. Most lenses have a af/mf switch on the barrel just flip that switch and focus will stay where you put it. I have my mirrorless cameras setup when I switch over to manual focus, focus peeking is enabled making it easy to see where I'm focusing. I went back to having af on the shutter mainly because I wore out the back button on one of my dslr's. Now I have the back button set to af off which is the work around to the focus and recompose scenario you talked about at the beginning.
I recently bought a new R7 and rf 100-400 for birds. My prior camera is 15 years old, so there is a lot to learn! I have found a lot of your videos super helpful!
Thanks guys for a great explanation and reason to disable front focus on the shutter button, I have set my camera as suggested and look forward to giving it an honest attempt to work for me
Great video. I have my Canon R5 set up with two different focusing methods assigned to Custom Menu 1 and Custom Menu 2. Number 1 is traditional metering and af start on the shutter button (as well as a few other settings such as one shot rather than servo mode) for macro work and Menu 2 is my dual back button focus set up for birds (in servo). It's so easy and useful to be able to quickly switch between two different shooting set ups.
I love your videos. I have used back button focus for years and it has been revolutionary for me. Then when I got my R5 I started using double back button focus thanks to Jan’s video on setting up the R5. Both times I have found it an adjustment but now it is second nature to me and my photography really improved. I have definitely been successful getting shots I never could have otherwise.
Totally understand the reasoning and I am excited to try it out. I have been aware of it for years but never heard a compelling explanation of exactly why to use it. Thanks. My one question is related to exactly where the camera is focusing. We all know a photo with the focus point not on the eye can ruin the photo if it’s noticeable. The perceived benefit of always reacquiring focus before taking the shot is that you are confirming focus before taking the photo. The explained benefit of back button focusing is that there is less chance of missing focus completely before landing the desired shot. It makes sense, but are you then reestablishing focus with the back button less often and if so does this lead to more photos where the focus isn’t exactly where you want it? Are you mainly saying “if the bird doesn’t move then you don’t have to focus again before the shot?” Does that mean if the bird moves its head you are using back button focus again before taking the shot? If this is the case aren’t you technically reopening the door for missed focus regardless of if the focus is being acquired with the main shutter button or the back button? Thanks, I have been loving your videos and watching tons of them! :)
Very well presented. I have used double BB focusing for a number of years, and have even been experimenting with triple Button focusing. It sounds excessive, but it allows me to have Wide area, 3D, and single point, all with the touch of a button.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am just starting to learn about the benefits of the AF on back button. I have a Nikon Z6. Do you think this is a good strategy for larger animals such as those you would see on Safari? I understand the benefit with birds, especially small ones in flight.
Jan, I tried BBF for about a year and while it was very good I kept missing shots, not the ones I had time to think about but those where a BIF suddenly pops out in front or to the side of me. I have to say I think it is me, I had a stroke some years ago and often find speech and intricate things can be difficult. I had to learn to walk, talk, and do things needed for my job as a computer programmer all over again, I was in the hospital for 3 months and it took years to recover. That being said what I have been doing is using the shutter button for focus and the AF-ON as AF-off so i can recompose and the "*" for single point. I find that way I miss less shots that spring up in front of me. Yes at times I miss the BFF when I have time to compose, but it has been working for me. I may actually take your advice and go back and give it a go again. Any thoughts would be appreciated
Thank you. I have back button focus set on my Sony A1. Most Sony Lenses have a button as well. I have assigned that as a focus button. On the 200 to 600 lens, this button is within easy reach and I find it more convenient than the back button. I do agree that there are definite advantages to back button focus. I did encounter a problem or two when I fist switched to back button focus. I changed to a wide angle lens for some reason ans started firing away and wondered why the shots did not look right in the viewfinder or on screen. I took a few shots before I remembered that I had back button set.
Great helpful video thank you! I’m moving from my canon 7D2 DSLR to a R7 mirrorless. I just had single back button focus on the 7D2, but you’ve convinced me to change to double back button on the new camera.
I tried back button focus a few years ago, it drove me crazy so I switched it back. Then after a few months, I decided to try it again, and stuck with it until I got used to it, and now that is the only way I'll ever have a camera set up. It's just so much better in every respect, once you get used to it that is, and it's worth taking the time and effort it takes to get used to it. After a few months using back button focus you'll develop the muscle memory to automatically use it and you won't even think of trying to use the shutter button for focus anymore. It just takes a little time and a few 'kind words' while you're getting used to it!
Very nice video and good arguments for BBF. I stopped using it after getting Canon R5. I now use Art Morris method for frontfocusing which is very good for BIF. Have you tried his method? From the start of his tutorial: The BAA Canon R5/R6 AF Guide By Arthur Morris: From the moment I learned about the new Canon mirrorless bodies, I heard of folks raving about using two or three back-buttons to focus using different AF methods. The word on the street said that the way to go for birds in flight was to use one button to acquire focus with Zone AF or with Large Zone: Horizontal AF and then switch to another button to activate Face Detection + Tracking AF and then use the shutter button to make an image. Several folks sent me links to tutorials. My immediate thought was, “This is insane! There has got to be a better way.” In short, there is a far superior way to set up AF on your R5 or R6. Remember that I got away from any form of back-button or rear focusing many years ago after finally realizing that it is always easier to do one thing (press the shutter button), than it is to do two things (press a back button and then press the shutter button).
I started back button early on and never looked back shooting on DLSR's. But since getting an R3 I still haven't set-up back button, I can't say I've really needed it yet. Because the camera has so many focus points, I can frame it how I want with the point of focus being available anywhere. All it takes is using the smart controller to move the focus point anywhere I want which is pretty easy.
love your vids guys...Much apprecited that you share your knowledge... I shoot nikon z9, sony and R5 and just wanted to point out thast with the Z9 i use double BBf by using both Af button (wide area usually)and centre of toggle set to 3d so i can actually adjust (give it a helping hand ) if need be using the toggle..
Hi Jan & Glenn, Of course this is an absolute fundamental !! Certainly now we have eye-AF tech. I did play with single BBF on my old 70D .. and didn't like it at all. But when I got my R6 last September, I already learned from the video "EOS R5 - The SETTINGS YOU NEED to KNOW" (posted Aug 16, 2020) by my photo-guru how to set up dual BBF. And it quickly felt very natural. Later on I've added the toggling between AF zones on the button right of the * button. Regarding the R7 I'm wondering how easy it is to mix that button and the * button because they are now placed vertical io horizontal ..
Great video guys. And i am totally agree. Started using back button focus 7-8 years ago, and never looked back. The keeper rate did increase a lot after starting using that. Cheers, Bjoern.
I do a combination of front button and back button. I leave the front button assigned to Servo with eye and face tracking. I shoot people and birds and animals mostly at the San Diego Zoo. When people or birds are by themselves servo works well on my Canon R5. I assigned the rear AF Button to Metering and AF Start. (sub menu to servo. AF method to zone or zone vertical. And servo characteristics to maintain current settings. I assigned the * (star button) to Metering and AF Start. In the sub-menu I set AF Operation to One Shot. AF Method to 1 Point AF. Servo mode to maintain current settings. I still take the shot with the front button. Note the rear buttons when pressed, override the front button’s mode. So it is easy to switch from servo to zone servo to one shot. I found fumbling with three buttons all in the back cumbersome. Especially the star and AF point button being so small and close together. By doing so, I can isolate people in a crowd with the rear AF Button. If it is an even tighter situation, I use the star one shot, like when birds are in a web of branches or foliage. I save all these setting in custom one (C1) with “people” eye tracking, I save those same settings in C2 with “animal” eye detect. And believe me, it makes a difference. The R5 can detect weird, dark animal eyes better in “animal mode.”
I changed to back button focus a couple of years ago, and after many years of using the shutter button was nervous that I would get confused. From the very first session I was hooked, and then when I got the R6 about a year ago, moved to the dual back button focus. I much prefer it, and would never go back.
On the canon R5 I like having 3 options spot, Zone and Eye Tracking. I keep going back and forth between having the 1/2 press for (spot and AF on) or one of the two buttons close to each other set up for Zone and (spot AF on). The AF on button is set to eye tracking. The issue I have with zone is it only seems to work with (spot AF on) held on, what ever button I have assigned to (spot AF on). That is easiest with the 1/2 press assigned to that for me. Holding the 1/2 press and a back button is in my muscle memory. The two buttons close together do also work but I seemed to miss more when I set it up that way. I would like all the benefits of having no focusing on the 1/2 press so would prefer to have it all on back buttons. I do find using zone and eye tracking a great combination with birds in flight but can't decide how to do that in the most efficient way. I would like it if zone and af on could be activated with 1 back button, but haven't found a way to do that yet
I've used BB focus for many years. The idea of making a second button is a new idea for me. I will need to do a bit of research to see if it is possible on my Canon 80d.
AFAIK on my 89D I can set the * to AF but it is the same mode as the AF-ON button. If you find a way to program different focusing points to the * button please post it here.
Great video . I have an R , I was able to assign servo Af to one back button, but as regards to eye focus, I was only able to assign to a second button "eye focus yes , eye focus no". This way one button focus Servo, Theo other switches between eye and normal focus. At the end I can do everything with 2 buttons, but your solution is more elegant and practical: Is it a limit of EOS R , or I was incapable to find for the solution you adopted ? thanks giovanni
I wish camera companies make back button focus activated with a lever built in , just like switching photo mode to video. Instead of going many steps to activate in the menu, just by a switch it can work, how wonderful this would be.
I've been using back button focus for years now, and don't plan to go back. Finally upgraded and have set the double buttons, however I'm left-handed/left-eyed, so I do struggle a little with button placement in comparison to where my face actually is when looking in the viewfinder. Eventually I'll be used to it, just a little bit of a learning curve there.
ok i am converted, hope you are happy. but i have activated the fn button on the left of the lens and the shutter release only for taking pictures. just in case also changed the iso button close to my thumb rest to be used as focus. this helped me in taking shots for martins and swallows. not getting the shot i really want but the hit rate is way better. thanks Jan and Glenn.
Using two different buttons for back button focusing makes sense with eye detection as one. I currently have a 7D MK II and use one button for single point and another button for multi-point (BIF). When I move to an R5 it looks like I'll need to set up three back buttons.
This is the best explanation of BBF that I've heard. I have a question. If one has two buttons set up for BBF, then what do you use to focus when taking a say landscape or a macro shot, please? Do you have to set up another BBF for that, as the one shot has been disabled from the front shutter button? Thank you!
You can still use the same BBF setup for landscape. Like Jan I have my AF On button set for single point AF and the Star button set for animal eye tracking. The camera is set to AF Servo. For landscape I focus by pressing the AF On button (single point) and as soon as I release the button the focus locks on that point, just like with Single Shot AF. It also has the incidental advantage that I can then freely recompose without having to keep the shutter button half pressed like I used to when I had focus assigned to the shutter button.
Thanks for another informative video. In your mirrorless setups are you using one shot or servo for the single point? Also, if you are intentionally going to shoot BIF is there a third setup that you use?
Love the new episode guys! Allready use BBF due to a previous video you did a while ago. But this makes so much sense for me. Also learned something new with the star button. Gonna try this in the field asap! Video request tough if possible?! Could you do a video about perching and getting a perch ready for a specific shot? Thanks on advance!
With all the benefits of BBAF a few things become cumbersome, 1) Thumb is engaged while using the AF-On button, no way to quickly adjust the Ev Comp without letting go of the AF-On button thus loosing AF tracking, 2) Can't use Front Fn/Pv buttons to change AF area without starting AF, example, if you have a dynamic af area set to the Fn/Pv without AF then you need to hit the front button for AF area then AF-On button and finally the shutter button, 3 buttons to coordinate, quite a handful.... 3)Finally thumb can start to strain due to prolonged use of BBAF, make your pick.....
I have used back button auto focus for several years on my Canon DSLRs. With the new mirrorless R series bodies, I think that back button autofocus is even more important than on the older DSLRs.
Great tips on the back buttons focusing. Finally it makes sense to do back buttons focusing especially when you pre focus on a perch and when the bird comes, it will might ruin the shot because your shutter might autofocus again and I have missed shots previously because of that. I will try to change the this setting on my Z9. Thanks 🙏
Hi, The camera does not know where to focus, even with the back button in the scenery. So you have to use the joystick for that. Even if it's the same focal plane you want to focus on a particular subject in that focal plane. So you need to use a joystick for that. Please correct me if I am wrong. thank you
It’s funny because since moving to mirrorless (Z6II currently) I actually moved away from BBAF and back to half-shutter focus. This video has me reconsidering. However, what i’m missing in my Z6II is the ability to assign another focus mode to Fn1 or Fn2 (or sub-selector button, lens Fn button, etc). We truly need the ability to set up double BBAF like the Z9, and Canon & Sony bodies. When eye tracking isn’t ideal, i usually just jump to subject tracking via my Fn2 button - very fast, but again i need the same ability to jump to single point, or wide-small.
hi guys, I set my r5 up slightly different, I have my shutter button set to a single point so I can pick out a particular bird in a group or a bird amongst foliage, I can then press AF to get eye detection to stay on that bird, I set my star button to use C1 C2 and C3, these are all set differently to each other for different situations, once I have pressed the star chosen which one I need I can again use AF to get eye detection, this covers me for all situations I need and the only dial I use is the mode button to pick which Custom scenario I want after pressing the star, also it’s set to alter exposure compensation as I use Auto ISO permanently, I’ve found this works perfectly for wildlife and aviation photography 👍📷✈️ cheers Terry
I think I discover an issue, I never actually disabled the AF on my Shutter, after I set up the AF to the * and the AF-On Back buttons... I will try again now that Half Shutter is only for Metering start. Thanks for another Great Video!
I use back button AF for decades, but I changed it a bit recently. I enabled AF on the Shutter button. It will do single point AF. I assigned Eye detection AF to AF-ON button, Zone AF to Star button and AF-OFF to AF point selection button. Pressing back buttons overwrite the Shutter button AF. I use Canon R5. It is very convenient and swift when I lost the target. Prefocusing is also working but I have to press AF-OFF when I take the shot. I rarly prefocus.
I do the same. I find that with mirrorless the recomposition benefits of back button focus are no longer relevant. With manual override on the lens I can have the best of both worlds, for instance when focusing through foliage or branches.
Wow trying this and I can already tell I like it more. Now I have eye detect/single point switch on one button, servo on/off on another and third AF button that overrides the shutter. I find the situations where I have to prefocus or "lock it" are rare enough that I prefer shutter focus most of the time. With this setup I can have best of both worlds. I'll have to experiment but so far I like it alot.
I find preset focus on the lens to be very handy then just AFC small zone with eye detect on the front shutter button - saves me thinking too much LOL.
ok never liked back button focus, tried it in Nikon DSLR and lumix gx9 and in Olympus. much prefer MF + SAF. but i think i will give it a try with the "pro capture" mode in my Olympus for bee eaters landing and taking off. can't go tomorrow but hopefully day after tomorrow, hope they will be in the mood and use the same perch they were yesterday. thanks again.
There have always been the option to lock fockus with att back button. Before I start to use the back button focus I have used back button lock-focus since the late eightees
I only use a mid tier camera (Sony a6400) and use it for travel, landscape, nightscape and wild life, so BBF is not viable for everything. I tried it for a few months but the one thing that killed BBF for me was when other people tried to use it. The average Joe knows nothing about BBF and struggle to use my camera, so I turned back on the shutter button half press to focus, but I reassigned the back button as a memory recall to 1/320s auto ISO so it's fast enough to capture most human action when in low-ish light situations (I'll be in A-priority), but when shooting birds (while in S-priority) that have perched, using the memory recall will have a slow enough SS to help reduce ISO.
Great info as always. I think it's important to point out that you can still use multiple buttons for different focusing modes without disabling the half press. If you use any other back button it will override the shutter half press as long as you keep that back button pressed. For example, you can still have the half press set to single point and then one back button to eye af and another to zone. Or however, you prefer.
This is how I currently have my R7 setup. My normal half press front button is programmed for single point and then I have a back button set to turn on animal tracking.
I have set up my R5 like this, but with a small twist. Half press = single point focus, AF point selection button = eye tracking and the * button = manual focus. This setup works really well for me.
Thanks for the video fellas! I finally got the 100-500L slightly used and wow, it’s great. The AF is much better than my 100-400 with the 1.4x. (Obviously, but I was stubborn). It does make me want to trade up my 600mm II now, as you had done, Jan. Granted, I have been shooting least tern in flight, which aren’t easy, but I imagine your 600 is much better to focus. Jan, I know you were waiting on your new 600 for examination , but did you try it with the 1.4x? Did you notice it struggle at all with the 1.4? Thanks
I can chime in here. I use the R5 with RF600f4 and 100-500. The focus doesn't struggle with 1.4x extender, it just slows down a bit. I have used the 600 with extender for swallows in flight and it is certainly doable but of course it focuses a tad faster with the bare lens.
@@axelhildebrandt thanks! And the EF 600 does decent but definitely for flight it’s rough. Also, I had taken about 6 months off from my flight shots so I’m rusty. Lastly, do you find for fast moving birds the 600 is best alone or are you good at framing at 840mm? For me, when I put the extender on it’s much harder to frame my shots. It doesn’t help that I’m handholding my 600mm II at the beach either. I own the gimbal setup but I try to avoid it if I can manage it so it’s less to lug around. I bet the weight savings is nice on the new 600
@@gary_michael_flanagan_wildlife Framing is not a big issue as long as you can predict/guess the distance of the birds. Coming from a 1.3x crop body, the full frame body makes this easier for me. The lower weight of the RF600 is really noticeable because I do everything handheld. My first-gen 500f4 weighs 8.5 pounds, going to 6.8 pounds and have an extra 100mm is quite amazing.
@@axelhildebrandt I loved the 1D mark IV. I think canon did a great job with that camera. I had it for many years and it was a good sweet spot with my old 500mm f 4.5 L lens. That lens was awesome too. And like 1800 bucks on eBay. Crazy
I wear glasses and I am a left eye shooter due to being partially blind in my right eye-- When I tried back button focus on my Dslr my right thumb joint pushed on my glasses and caused me to come off the viewfinder a bit-- any suggestions to help with this issue-- I know pretty unusual but thought you might have a thought.
Which DSLR? I tried on an R5 and its not a problem but the EVF sticks out quite a bit. Perhaps on a DSLR you can try a more pronounced eye cup? Here with the boss I’d use this as an excuse to upgrade!!!😂😂
I tried bb focusing for a while but it didn’t work for me: a) it was mostly for flower/macro shots (no bird photo yet) so I didn’t find it that useful; b) I don’t have good vision in my right eye so I have to look through the view finder with my left eye, as a result my face was in the way. It would be better for me to have a front button that could be assigned to focus…
I'm slowly trying to improve my photography. I was going to upgrade my DSLR to mirrorless purely because of the animal eye feature then realised the issue with my pictures was actually me not understanding how to use my camera properly. I'm going to try to use back button focus and see if this helps. Thanks for a great video!
I haven't turned it back on since I handed the camera to take a shot of my wife and me and couldn't successfully explain to the person I handed it to on how to use it. This was on my Canon 5DMKIV. I ordered, but do not have an mirrorless R7 yet.
My 90D doesn't feature double bbf. But I've used bbf for a few years now (and rarely anything else, except with manual focus lenses). The biggest problem for me was that I was so used to front button focus, that I'd forget. I don't take pictures every day or even every week, so when I took out my camera I would not understand why it wouldn't focus. I'd think, "Oh, the lens is switched to MF", and when I saw that it wasn't, I'd think, "oh no - my camera is broken, I'll have to send it in for repair, and it's going to take weeks and cost me a lot of money". And then after a few minutes suddenly I'd remember, "OH! I've set it to bbf!" What a relief, and what a lot of worrying for no reason. If I hadn't been as stubborn as I am, I might well have quit and set my camera back to fbf and just left it there. But also I fully understood the benefits, so I knew it was going to be worth the trouble. And it certainly was!
I think this video is a bit outdated. In the DSLR days, BBF was an absolute must. Not so now with the incredible tracking function across the entire frame now available with mirrorless like Sony A9 and R3/6II). I used to be entirely BBF, but now I use FBF and dual/single BBF. Front generally spot that I move with the joystick with face/eye disabled. BBF various Face/eye AF combinations on my 5 and 6II and Sony a9II. Use everything that helps.
With face/eye detection, back-button focus (in some cases) makes little sense, especially as it will activate VR in addition to the shutter button activating VR...causing micro vibrations that ruin a shot. Maybe bird photography is less affected? I don't shoot birds.
The VR is running on mirrorless cameras anyways, whenever the EVF is on. Personally I find BBF even more important with eye tracking cameras, because it always me to use spot Af and eye tracking whenever I need it. Especially when the eye tracking Af doesn't hit the subject
Yeah, I can't imagine to ever go back to the "metering+af" front button. The only issue: You can't hand over your camera to any other person to "just take a shot" anymore. 🤷♂
For me, the benefit of BBF is essentially having AF-C and AF-S simultaneously. If you’re photographing a stationary subject, AF-S works great with focus on the shutter button, and it lets you focus and recompose. However when photographing moving subjects or subjects that you predict are about to move, like animals, you need AF-C. With traditional AF-C on the shutter button, this induces the risk of unintentionally focusing on elements other than the subject when the subject is moving around in the frame or you want to recompose after focus is achieved. BBF solves this problem by giving you both AF-C and AF-S at the click of a button, rather than going into the menus and missing the shot.
Never understood Back Button AF. Seems like a waste of buttons to me. Why not using the shutter button as spot & track AF and putting manual focus on the button that's the furthest on the right?
Bloody 75% of the video explaining back button focussing. Get to the point of double back button. Edit: never understood how to setup double back button focussing.
Why is it that two grown up professional bird photographers have problems with muscle memory where it concerns the new coming Canon R7? Oké, it has a different build up map of buttons and knobs but they seem to be customizable. Please Don't complain too much like a mourning kid that refuses to play with another toy. You're grown-ups so just give it a try. Each toy needs its time to get used to so stop moaning. It is what it is and it seems to have good autofocus. Have a good time, there must be a sunny side behind those grumpy mumbling bear.
Jan - I actually use Triple Backbutton focus with the R5 using the AF-on, * and the button next to *. The AF-on button is set to single point af, the * button is animal eye detect and the third button is animal eye-detect with a 1.3 stop increase in exposure (with auto iso) This third button lets me instantly increase the exposure if photographing Birds in Flight with a bright sky. Works great for me :-)
What camera are you using that allows you to program back-button focus AND an exposure compensation?
@@jaym5938 Hi, Canon R5, from memory you have to use a button to "Register a shooting function" In the Customise button menu :-)
Right on! Thanks guys this is super helpful just last night i was missing shots with shoot and focus on the front. New to photography and your shows are interesting and pragmatic :) God bless you guys :)
I've never seen a reason to remove the auto focus and eye tracking from the front shutter button even when using back buttons at times. At some time in the past people were focusing and recomposing but tracking and eye auto focus makes that unnecessary now. I'm using tracking and eye auto focus on my front button all of the time and then only use a backbutton when I want to switch to single point auto focus or to drop the shutter speed for lower iso with a stationary subject and still have eye tracking. This hybrid front and back button focusing is working great for me on my Sony and my Canon cameras. For sudden action and birds in flight I'm on the front shutter button with eye tracking with no problems, with special situations I grab one of the 2 back buttons I have set up. Holding one of them down 1st overrides the front button's af settings. It even works well if I ever hand the camera to someone else and they can just use the front shutter. The af setting I switch sometimes is going from wide tracking to center point or expanded point(sony) tracking on the front button in the menu when I want to pick something out sometimes.
Agree 100%. The shutter button can still be used as a default af option with back button overriding it if you choose.
I do the same when using my R5 and R7. In this setup I can get 3 different AF presetup. It works great for me that the back buttons overriding the front buttons AF.
You guys are a great duo. Please keep up the fantastic content.
Thank you! Will do!
Thanks!
Thank You!!
I LOVE dual back button focus on my Canon R5 and have happily used it for the past year. I learned about it from you, Jan, so many thanks for that. This was an excellent discussion of the benefits.
Love back button focus and R5 has allowed me to set up 3 back button focus, single point, eye tracking and zonal.
nice!
3 buttons sounds great i think I will try it. 😄
I have my R5 set the same. It's perfect.
I use the three back button focus but changed my depth of field button to change zones. Love it.
Same here and the fact R cannot be setup this way is why I’m selling it as my backup.
@ 8:35 when you start talking about shooting with a cable release is a non issue. Most lenses have a af/mf switch on the barrel just flip that switch and focus will stay where you put it. I have my mirrorless cameras setup when I switch over to manual focus, focus peeking is enabled making it easy to see where I'm focusing. I went back to having af on the shutter mainly because I wore out the back button on one of my dslr's. Now I have the back button set to af off which is the work around to the focus and recompose scenario you talked about at the beginning.
Thank you. This was the clearest video I’ve seen on why to use it.
Thanks
Thank You!!
I recently bought a new R7 and rf 100-400 for birds. My prior camera is 15 years old, so there is a lot to learn! I have found a lot of your videos super helpful!
Thanks guys for a great explanation and reason to disable front focus on the shutter button, I have set my camera as suggested and look forward to giving it an honest attempt to work for me
Great video. I have my Canon R5 set up with two different focusing methods assigned to Custom Menu 1 and Custom Menu 2. Number 1 is traditional metering and af start on the shutter button (as well as a few other settings such as one shot rather than servo mode) for macro work and Menu 2 is my dual back button focus set up for birds (in servo). It's so easy and useful to be able to quickly switch between two different shooting set ups.
I love your videos. I have used back button focus for years and it has been revolutionary for me. Then when I got my R5 I started using double back button focus thanks to Jan’s video on setting up the R5. Both times I have found it an adjustment but now it is second nature to me and my photography really improved. I have definitely been successful getting shots I never could have otherwise.
Totally understand the reasoning and I am excited to try it out. I have been aware of it for years but never heard a compelling explanation of exactly why to use it. Thanks. My one question is related to exactly where the camera is focusing. We all know a photo with the focus point not on the eye can ruin the photo if it’s noticeable. The perceived benefit of always reacquiring focus before taking the shot is that you are confirming focus before taking the photo. The explained benefit of back button focusing is that there is less chance of missing focus completely before landing the desired shot. It makes sense, but are you then reestablishing focus with the back button less often and if so does this lead to more photos where the focus isn’t exactly where you want it? Are you mainly saying “if the bird doesn’t move then you don’t have to focus again before the shot?” Does that mean if the bird moves its head you are using back button focus again before taking the shot? If this is the case aren’t you technically reopening the door for missed focus regardless of if the focus is being acquired with the main shutter button or the back button?
Thanks, I have been loving your videos and watching tons of them! :)
Convinced gents! Thanks for a great educational video.
Thanks for watching!
Very well presented. I have used double BB focusing for a number of years, and have even been experimenting with triple Button focusing. It sounds excessive, but it allows me to have Wide area, 3D, and single point, all with the touch of a button.
Thanks for sharing!
Definitely a fan of back button focus for all the reasons you outlined. Thanks for another great show. Keep up the good work. All the best, Brian.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I am just starting to learn about the benefits of the AF on back button. I have a Nikon Z6. Do you think this is a good strategy for larger animals such as those you would see on Safari? I understand the benefit with birds, especially small ones in flight.
Thanks, I knew what BBF was, but now I understand much more of the why. I will try it.
great!
Jan, I tried BBF for about a year and while it was very good I kept missing shots, not the ones I had time to think about but those where a BIF suddenly pops out in front or to the side of me. I have to say I think it is me, I had a stroke some years ago and often find speech and intricate things can be difficult. I had to learn to walk, talk, and do things needed for my job as a computer programmer all over again, I was in the hospital for 3 months and it took years to recover. That being said what I have been doing is using the shutter button for focus and the AF-ON as AF-off so i can recompose and the "*" for single point. I find that way I miss less shots that spring up in front of me. Yes at times I miss the BFF when I have time to compose, but it has been working for me. I may actually take your advice and go back and give it a go again. Any thoughts would be appreciated
Thank you. I have back button focus set on my Sony A1. Most Sony Lenses have a button as well. I have assigned that as a focus button. On the 200 to 600 lens, this button is within easy reach and I find it more convenient than the back button. I do agree that there are definite advantages to back button focus. I did encounter a problem or two when I fist switched to back button focus. I changed to a wide angle lens for some reason ans started firing away and wondered why the shots did not look right in the viewfinder or on screen. I took a few shots before I remembered that I had back button set.
Great helpful video thank you! I’m moving from my canon 7D2 DSLR to a R7 mirrorless. I just had single back button focus on the 7D2, but you’ve convinced me to change to double back button on the new camera.
I tried back button focus a few years ago, it drove me crazy so I switched it back. Then after a few months, I decided to try it again, and stuck with it until I got used to it, and now that is the only way I'll ever have a camera set up. It's just so much better in every respect, once you get used to it that is, and it's worth taking the time and effort it takes to get used to it. After a few months using back button focus you'll develop the muscle memory to automatically use it and you won't even think of trying to use the shutter button for focus anymore. It just takes a little time and a few 'kind words' while you're getting used to it!
Very nice video and good arguments for BBF. I stopped using it after getting Canon R5. I now use Art Morris method for frontfocusing which is very good for BIF. Have you tried his method? From the start of his tutorial: The BAA Canon R5/R6 AF Guide
By Arthur Morris:
From the moment I learned about the new Canon mirrorless bodies, I heard of folks raving about using two or three back-buttons to focus using different AF methods. The word on the street said that the way to go for birds in flight was to use one button to acquire focus with Zone AF or with Large Zone: Horizontal AF and then switch to another button to activate Face Detection + Tracking AF and then use the shutter button to make an image. Several folks sent me links to tutorials.
My immediate thought was, “This is insane! There has got to be a better way.” In short, there is a far superior way to set up AF on your R5 or R6.
Remember that I got away from any form of back-button or rear focusing many years ago after finally realizing that it is always easier to do one thing (press the shutter button), than it is to do two things (press a back button and then press the shutter button).
is there any way to switch between back focus and shutter rease button focus using a FN button on D500 ?
Agree with you, though I combine focus on the shutter button with the AF button.
I started back button early on and never looked back shooting on DLSR's. But since getting an R3 I still haven't set-up back button, I can't say I've really needed it yet. Because the camera has so many focus points, I can frame it how I want with the point of focus being available anywhere. All it takes is using the smart controller to move the focus point anywhere I want which is pretty easy.
love your vids guys...Much apprecited that you share your knowledge... I shoot nikon z9, sony and R5 and just wanted to point out thast with the Z9 i use double BBf by using both Af button (wide area usually)and centre of toggle set to 3d so i can actually adjust (give it a helping hand ) if need be using the toggle..
Hi Jan & Glenn, Of course this is an absolute fundamental !! Certainly now we have eye-AF tech. I did play with single BBF on my old 70D .. and didn't like it at all.
But when I got my R6 last September, I already learned from the video "EOS R5 - The SETTINGS YOU NEED to KNOW" (posted Aug 16, 2020) by my photo-guru how to set up dual BBF. And it quickly felt very natural.
Later on I've added the toggling between AF zones on the button right of the * button. Regarding the R7 I'm wondering how easy it is to mix that button and the * button because they are now placed vertical io horizontal ..
I’m doing this NOW with the R5 bodies. I get it, thank you both.
Great video guys. And i am totally agree. Started using back button focus 7-8 years ago, and never looked back. The keeper rate did increase a lot after starting using that. Cheers, Bjoern.
Thanks for sharing!
I do a combination of front button and back button. I leave the front button assigned to Servo with eye and face tracking. I shoot people and birds and animals mostly at the San Diego Zoo. When people or birds are by themselves servo works well on my Canon R5.
I assigned the rear AF Button to Metering and AF Start. (sub menu to servo. AF method to zone or zone vertical. And servo characteristics to maintain current settings.
I assigned the * (star button) to Metering and AF Start. In the sub-menu I set AF Operation to One Shot. AF Method to 1 Point AF. Servo mode to maintain current settings.
I still take the shot with the front button. Note the rear buttons when pressed, override the front button’s mode.
So it is easy to switch from servo to zone servo to one shot.
I found fumbling with three buttons all in the back cumbersome. Especially the star and AF point button being so small and close together.
By doing so, I can isolate people in a crowd with the rear AF Button. If it is an even tighter situation, I use the star one shot, like when birds are in a web of branches or foliage.
I save all these setting in custom one (C1) with “people” eye tracking, I save those same settings in C2 with “animal” eye detect. And believe me, it makes a difference. The R5 can detect weird, dark animal eyes better in “animal mode.”
I changed to back button focus a couple of years ago, and after many years of using the shutter button was nervous that I would get confused. From the very first session I was hooked, and then when I got the R6 about a year ago, moved to the dual back button focus. I much prefer it, and would never go back.
On the canon R5 I like having 3 options spot, Zone and Eye Tracking. I keep going back and forth between having the 1/2 press for (spot and AF on) or one of the two buttons close to each other set up for Zone and (spot AF on). The AF on button is set to eye tracking. The issue I have with zone is it only seems to work with (spot AF on) held on, what ever button I have assigned to (spot AF on). That is easiest with the 1/2 press assigned to that for me. Holding the 1/2 press and a back button is in my muscle memory. The two buttons close together do also work but I seemed to miss more when I set it up that way. I would like all the benefits of having no focusing on the 1/2 press so would prefer to have it all on back buttons. I do find using zone and eye tracking a great combination with birds in flight but can't decide how to do that in the most efficient way. I would like it if zone and af on could be activated with 1 back button, but haven't found a way to do that yet
It really is the most important switch to make ! BBF til I die on "Camilla & " 👍😍
I've used BB focus for many years. The idea of making a second button is a new idea for me. I will need to do a bit of research to see if it is possible on my Canon 80d.
AFAIK on my 89D I can set the * to AF but it is the same mode as the AF-ON button. If you find a way to program different focusing points to the * button please post it here.
Great video . I have an R , I was able to assign servo Af to one back button, but as regards to eye focus, I was only able to assign to a second button "eye focus yes , eye focus no". This way one button focus Servo, Theo other switches between eye and normal focus. At the end I can do everything with 2 buttons, but your solution is more elegant and practical: Is it a limit of EOS R , or I was incapable to find for the solution you adopted ? thanks
giovanni
Thanks guys for sharing nice talks.
Our pleasure!
I wish camera companies make back button focus activated with a lever built in , just like switching photo mode to video. Instead of going many steps to activate in the menu, just by a switch it can work, how wonderful this would be.
I've been using back button focus for years now, and don't plan to go back. Finally upgraded and have set the double buttons, however I'm left-handed/left-eyed, so I do struggle a little with button placement in comparison to where my face actually is when looking in the viewfinder. Eventually I'll be used to it, just a little bit of a learning curve there.
ok i am converted, hope you are happy.
but i have activated the fn button on the left of the lens and the shutter release only for taking pictures.
just in case also changed the iso button close to my thumb rest to be used as focus.
this helped me in taking shots for martins and swallows. not getting the shot i really want but the hit rate is way better.
thanks Jan and Glenn.
Using two different buttons for back button focusing makes sense with eye detection as one. I currently have a 7D MK II and use one button for single point and another button for multi-point (BIF). When I move to an R5 it looks like I'll need to set up three back buttons.
This is the best explanation of BBF that I've heard. I have a question. If one has two buttons set up for BBF, then what do you use to focus when taking a say landscape or a macro shot, please? Do you have to set up another BBF for that, as the one shot has been disabled from the front shutter button? Thank you!
You can still use the same BBF setup for landscape. Like Jan I have my AF On button set for single point AF and the Star button set for animal eye tracking. The camera is set to AF Servo. For landscape I focus by pressing the AF On button (single point) and as soon as I release the button the focus locks on that point, just like with Single Shot AF. It also has the incidental advantage that I can then freely recompose without having to keep the shutter button half pressed like I used to when I had focus assigned to the shutter button.
@@alanwood5590 Many thanks for this information Alan. Much appreciated.
Thanks for another informative video. In your mirrorless setups are you using one shot or servo for the single point? Also, if you are intentionally going to shoot BIF is there a third setup that you use?
Glenn uses One Shot, I don't
Love the new episode guys! Allready use BBF due to a previous video you did a while ago. But this makes so much sense for me. Also learned something new with the star button. Gonna try this in the field asap!
Video request tough if possible?! Could you do a video about perching and getting a perch ready for a specific shot? Thanks on advance!
With all the benefits of BBAF a few things become cumbersome, 1) Thumb is engaged while using the AF-On button, no way to quickly adjust the Ev Comp without letting go of the AF-On button thus loosing AF tracking, 2) Can't use Front Fn/Pv buttons to change AF area without starting AF, example, if you have a dynamic af area set to the Fn/Pv without AF then you need to hit the front button for AF area then AF-On button and finally the shutter button, 3 buttons to coordinate, quite a handful.... 3)Finally thumb can start to strain due to prolonged use of BBAF, make your pick.....
I have used back button auto focus for several years on my Canon DSLRs. With the new mirrorless R series bodies, I think that back button autofocus is even more important than on the older DSLRs.
Great tips on the back buttons focusing. Finally it makes sense to do back buttons focusing especially when you pre focus on a perch and when the bird comes, it will might ruin the shot because your shutter might autofocus again and I have missed shots previously because of that. I will try to change the this setting on my Z9. Thanks 🙏
So why not prefocus and then switch to MF? It accomplishes the same thing.
Hi, The camera does not know where to focus, even with the back button in the scenery. So you have to use the joystick for that. Even if it's the same focal plane you want to focus on a particular subject in that focal plane. So you need to use a joystick for that. Please correct me if I am wrong. thank you
It’s funny because since moving to mirrorless (Z6II currently) I actually moved away from BBAF and back to half-shutter focus. This video has me reconsidering. However, what i’m missing in my Z6II is the ability to assign another focus mode to Fn1 or Fn2 (or sub-selector button, lens Fn button, etc). We truly need the ability to set up double BBAF like the Z9, and Canon & Sony bodies.
When eye tracking isn’t ideal, i usually just jump to subject tracking via my Fn2 button - very fast, but again i need the same ability to jump to single point, or wide-small.
hi guys, I set my r5 up slightly different, I have my shutter button set to a single point so I can pick out a particular bird in a group or a bird amongst foliage, I can then press AF to get eye detection to stay on that bird, I set my star button to use C1 C2 and C3, these are all set differently to each other for different situations, once I have pressed the star chosen which one I need I can again use AF to get eye detection, this covers me for all situations I need and the only dial I use is the mode button to pick which Custom scenario I want after pressing the star, also it’s set to alter exposure compensation as I use Auto ISO permanently, I’ve found this works perfectly for wildlife and aviation photography 👍📷✈️ cheers Terry
I think I discover an issue, I never actually disabled the AF on my Shutter, after I set up the AF to the * and the AF-On Back buttons... I will try again now that Half Shutter is only for Metering start. Thanks for another Great Video!
I use back button AF for decades, but I changed it a bit recently. I enabled AF on the Shutter button. It will do single point AF. I assigned Eye detection AF to AF-ON button, Zone AF to Star button and AF-OFF to AF point selection button. Pressing back buttons overwrite the Shutter button AF. I use Canon R5. It is very convenient and swift when I lost the target. Prefocusing is also working but I have to press AF-OFF when I take the shot. I rarly prefocus.
I do the same. I find that with mirrorless the recomposition benefits of back button focus are no longer relevant. With manual override on the lens I can have the best of both worlds, for instance when focusing through foliage or branches.
Wow trying this and I can already tell I like it more. Now I have eye detect/single point switch on one button, servo on/off on another and third AF button that overrides the shutter. I find the situations where I have to prefocus or "lock it" are rare enough that I prefer shutter focus most of the time. With this setup I can have best of both worlds. I'll have to experiment but so far I like it alot.
I find preset focus on the lens to be very handy then just AFC small zone with eye detect on the front shutter button - saves me thinking too much LOL.
ok never liked back button focus, tried it in Nikon DSLR and lumix gx9 and in Olympus. much prefer MF + SAF.
but i think i will give it a try with the "pro capture" mode in my Olympus for bee eaters landing and taking off. can't go tomorrow but hopefully day after tomorrow, hope they will be in the mood and use the same perch they were yesterday.
thanks again.
There have always been the option to lock fockus with att back button. Before I start to use the back button focus I have used back button lock-focus since the late eightees
I switched to BBF only after 2 weeks of getting my first dLSR (Canon 30D).
Used BF, for years, went to dual BF with the R5, one single point and the other eye detection
I only use a mid tier camera (Sony a6400) and use it for travel, landscape, nightscape and wild life, so BBF is not viable for everything. I tried it for a few months but the one thing that killed BBF for me was when other people tried to use it. The average Joe knows nothing about BBF and struggle to use my camera, so I turned back on the shutter button half press to focus, but I reassigned the back button as a memory recall to 1/320s auto ISO so it's fast enough to capture most human action when in low-ish light situations (I'll be in A-priority), but when shooting birds (while in S-priority) that have perched, using the memory recall will have a slow enough SS to help reduce ISO.
8:47 omg you sounded like the Canon R3 30fps sound
Thanks.....
Are the editing related videos free? I saw mention on them in the video
There’s many on my channel and I have a paid Masterclass
Great info as always. I think it's important to point out that you can still use multiple buttons for different focusing modes without disabling the half press. If you use any other back button it will override the shutter half press as long as you keep that back button pressed. For example, you can still have the half press set to single point and then one back button to eye af and another to zone. Or however, you prefer.
This is how I currently have my R7 setup. My normal half press front button is programmed for single point and then I have a back button set to turn on animal tracking.
I have set up my R5 like this, but with a small twist. Half press = single point focus, AF point selection button = eye tracking and the * button = manual focus. This setup works really well for me.
Thanks for the video fellas! I finally got the 100-500L slightly used and wow, it’s great. The AF is much better than my 100-400 with the 1.4x. (Obviously, but I was stubborn). It does make me want to trade up my 600mm II now, as you had done, Jan. Granted, I have been shooting least tern in flight, which aren’t easy, but I imagine your 600 is much better to focus. Jan, I know you were waiting on your new 600 for examination , but did you try it with the 1.4x? Did you notice it struggle at all with the 1.4? Thanks
I can chime in here. I use the R5 with RF600f4 and 100-500. The focus doesn't struggle with 1.4x extender, it just slows down a bit. I have used the 600 with extender for swallows in flight and it is certainly doable but of course it focuses a tad faster with the bare lens.
@@axelhildebrandt thanks! And the EF 600 does decent but definitely for flight it’s rough. Also, I had taken about 6 months off from my flight shots so I’m rusty. Lastly, do you find for fast moving birds the 600 is best alone or are you good at framing at 840mm? For me, when I put the extender on it’s much harder to frame my shots. It doesn’t help that I’m handholding my 600mm II at the beach either. I own the gimbal setup but I try to avoid it if I can manage it so it’s less to lug around. I bet the weight savings is nice on the new 600
@@gary_michael_flanagan_wildlife Framing is not a big issue as long as you can predict/guess the distance of the birds. Coming from a 1.3x crop body, the full frame body makes this easier for me. The lower weight of the RF600 is really noticeable because I do everything handheld. My first-gen 500f4 weighs 8.5 pounds, going to 6.8 pounds and have an extra 100mm is quite amazing.
@@axelhildebrandt I loved the 1D mark IV. I think canon did a great job with that camera. I had it for many years and it was a good sweet spot with my old 500mm f 4.5 L lens. That lens was awesome too. And like 1800 bucks on eBay. Crazy
I wear glasses and I am a left eye shooter due to being partially blind in my right eye-- When I tried back button focus on my Dslr my right thumb joint pushed on my glasses and caused me to come off the viewfinder a bit-- any suggestions to help with this issue-- I know pretty unusual but thought you might have a thought.
Which DSLR? I tried on an R5 and its not a problem but the EVF sticks out quite a bit. Perhaps on a DSLR you can try a more pronounced eye cup? Here with the boss I’d use this as an excuse to upgrade!!!😂😂
@@jmich5123 I have a Canon 5d Mark 4 - I would love to upgrade but can't afford at this time. maybe next year.
@@ilesmic Brilliant camera, revolutionary in its own right. Try a big eyecup!!
I tried bb focusing for a while but it didn’t work for me: a) it was mostly for flower/macro shots (no bird photo yet) so I didn’t find it that useful; b) I don’t have good vision in my right eye so I have to look through the view finder with my left eye, as a result my face was in the way. It would be better for me to have a front button that could be assigned to focus…
I'm slowly trying to improve my photography. I was going to upgrade my DSLR to mirrorless purely because of the animal eye feature then realised the issue with my pictures was actually me not understanding how to use my camera properly. I'm going to try to use back button focus and see if this helps. Thanks for a great video!
I haven't turned it back on since I handed the camera to take a shot of my wife and me and couldn't successfully explain to the person I handed it to on how to use it. This was on my Canon 5DMKIV. I ordered, but do not have an mirrorless R7 yet.
Most people don't also know that recomposing can shift the focus, resulting in a soft picture.
My 90D doesn't feature double bbf.
But I've used bbf for a few years now (and rarely anything else, except with manual focus lenses).
The biggest problem for me was that I was so used to front button focus, that I'd forget.
I don't take pictures every day or even every week, so when I took out my camera I would not understand why it wouldn't focus.
I'd think, "Oh, the lens is switched to MF", and when I saw that it wasn't, I'd think, "oh no - my camera is broken, I'll have to send it in for repair, and it's going to take weeks and cost me a lot of money".
And then after a few minutes suddenly I'd remember, "OH! I've set it to bbf!" What a relief, and what a lot of worrying for no reason.
If I hadn't been as stubborn as I am, I might well have quit and set my camera back to fbf and just left it there.
But also I fully understood the benefits, so I knew it was going to be worth the trouble.
And it certainly was!
No need for back focus wirh Real time AF trackimg ?
I need to show you my triple back button focus..funny enough I cannot replicate on the R7 as it's not even a viable option yet...
I think this video is a bit outdated. In the DSLR days, BBF was an absolute must. Not so now with the incredible tracking function across the entire frame now available with mirrorless like Sony A9 and R3/6II). I used to be entirely BBF, but now I use FBF and dual/single BBF. Front generally spot that I move with the joystick with face/eye disabled. BBF various Face/eye AF combinations on my 5 and 6II and Sony a9II. Use everything that helps.
I feel like with the mirrorless it’s even more important
Once you go back……..You never go back.
With face/eye detection, back-button focus (in some cases) makes little sense, especially as it will activate VR in addition to the shutter button activating VR...causing micro vibrations that ruin a shot. Maybe bird photography is less affected? I don't shoot birds.
The VR is running on mirrorless cameras anyways, whenever the EVF is on. Personally I find BBF even more important with eye tracking cameras, because it always me to use spot Af and eye tracking whenever I need it. Especially when the eye tracking Af doesn't hit the subject
Yeah, I can't imagine to ever go back to the "metering+af" front button. The only issue: You can't hand over your camera to any other person to "just take a shot" anymore. 🤷♂
When I do hand my camera over to another person, I switch it to full auto 🤣
I set up mode 3 for this purpose.
It took me a while to get used to Back Button Focusing but now I wouldn't go back.
For me, the benefit of BBF is essentially having AF-C and AF-S simultaneously.
If you’re photographing a stationary subject, AF-S works great with focus on the shutter button, and it lets you focus and recompose. However when photographing moving subjects or subjects that you predict are about to move, like animals, you need AF-C. With traditional AF-C on the shutter button, this induces the risk of unintentionally focusing on elements other than the subject when the subject is moving around in the frame or you want to recompose after focus is achieved. BBF solves this problem by giving you both AF-C and AF-S at the click of a button, rather than going into the menus and missing the shot.
Nikon really screwed this up in the Z9. No excuses.
Never understood Back Button AF. Seems like a waste of buttons to me. Why not using the shutter button as spot & track AF and putting manual focus on the button that's the furthest on the right?
Fifty percent in to this video and you have told me nothing. Goodbye.
Bloody 75% of the video explaining back button focussing. Get to the point of double back button.
Edit: never understood how to setup double back button focussing.
assign different AF modes to two different buttons at the back
I watched about half of the video but found 2 commentators distracting and twice as boring .And I still DONT understand back button focusing.
So antiquated! No need for it on a Sony A1 because it doesn’t miss focus. Maybe buy a camera with technology that works!
Good Joke ! 😂
Why is it that two grown up professional bird photographers have problems with muscle memory where it concerns the new coming Canon R7?
Oké, it has a different build up map of buttons and knobs but they seem to be customizable. Please Don't complain too much like a mourning kid that refuses to play with another toy. You're grown-ups so just give it a try. Each toy needs its time to get used to so stop moaning. It is what it is and it seems to have good autofocus. Have a good time, there must be a sunny side behind those grumpy mumbling bear.