one special call out - about the last point you mentioned -' finding the subject in the view finder ' This time you talked about this technique in general , but I watched an old video of yours where you talked about - how to setup the Gimbal head properly and free up one side of your vision to find the subject with your eye and then quickly go back to the view finder and track the subject through view finder. It was an amazing technique that helped me setup my gimbal when I was transitioning to Long Primes. While finding the subject in the view finder is very important trick , finding it through a long prime (600/800 mm ) is even more trickier and that video was life changing :)) I know that most of us now would use high quality zooms and light weight primes and would not need gimbal on the field , but for what its worth , knowing the gimbal technique was quite cool since I mostly do a lot of forest birding and my setup is monopod + gimbal .. :)) about the Manual + Auto ISO - Mastering it is the key . A lot of the time we would also dial in exposure compensation with it and would become Manual + Auto ISO + Exposure Compensation. while its a lot to take in and apply .. once you have programmed your mind with it , there is nothing like it . And with the advent of Mirrorless cameras , where you can enable histogram in the view finder and also see the effect of your changes real time - one could say -' its magic' .. but going back the first thing I said , programming the whole thing in your mind is the key and for that - ' Practice ... practice .. practice ..' :D
What a wealth of information, Jan! Even when we've been photographing birds for years, there are always new things to learn or ways to use the information we already know with greater effectiveness. Your channel and your editing tools are amazing resources, thank you!
Jen, I use auto iso or manual. I use triple back button focus, eye tracking, center zone, and spot focus, I find center zone great for BIF. When birds are flying against various backgrounds, like from sky to trees eye tracking can lose the birds against the trees. I switch to center zone to track the birds against busier backgrounds and can switch back instantly to eye tracking. I wish canon would add highlight alerts to the view finder instead of only after a photo is taken.
Hi Jan, I shoot Manual mode + Auto ISO + Exposure compensation. I tend to expose to the right as much as possible. Also, I try to have high shutter speed rarely lower than 1/1000. By the way, I just enjoy these types of videos. You nailed it Jan !
With all my DSLRs I used full manual mode and single back button focus with manual override on a macro lens, with my R7 I still use single back button focus with manual override but have switched to the FV mode which I use the same as manual mode, I can change my settings without taking the view finder from my eye, I shoot mainly dragonflies and damselflies inflight.
I love back button focus. I discovered it one day when I purchased a second hand dslr. The lovely 'ol gentleman was going through the camera and mentioned BBFocus and I have never looked back!! I have since changed all my cameras! Being doing a lot of "target practice" since you mentioned it in one of your previous videos. Think I'm getting much better! Great episode! Thank you!
An outstanding and concise summary of techniques and settings. I shoot full manual and BBF. Your presentation has really encouraged me to continue these great practices.
Hi Jan, I shoot most of my images in M /auto ISO. The last point you made hits home with me! Ive been very frustrated, when I suddenly see a bird in flight, I can’t find it in my view finder, I miss the shot! I’m going to go out in the farm fields this weekend and practice this tip. I use back button focus , is amazing . If you don’t mind me asking, where do you focus when taking an image of multiple birds on a branch to get them all in focus? Thank you 😊
Well described techniques! I don't no if this has been mentioned in these comments but another reason to use BBAF is, if the you and the bird is stationary, you can focus on the eye, release the BB and shoot a burst. This locks the focus on the eye and eliminates the "pulsing" of the focus so you don't get those mysterious OOF shots in the burst. As for finding the subject in the viewfinder, I think of staring at the bird, then without looking away or at the camera, just put the camera in front of my eye and viola, the bird is usually right there! I developed this skill from many, many years of birding, using this technique with my binoculars.
I use back button focus but I haven’t disabled the shutter focus. I use both and the back button for locking on the eyes. I shoot manual with auto ISO. I use a separate dial for exposure compensation. All settings are saved and registered. So when I’m birding I just turn the camera on.
I use full manual mode but have recently been doing so through FV mode. On my R7 its so easy using one dial to quickly cycle to aperture, shutter speed or ISO, and the other dial to change the value.
I often use the FV mode which I find very versatile. Allows you to have these 4 variants simultaneously (aperture, speed, Iso and light compensation (in manual mode there is no light compensation; there is one less variant). Thanks a lot.
Great video, very straight forward, and clear. There are so many styles for camera settings. Mark Galer (Sony), for instance, recommends Aperture Priority with “Aperture Priority Min. Shutter Speed and Auto ISO (setting the range), and with shutter Button Focus. I find this works about 80% of the time, factoring in EV Compensation. If I use this method, I usually will set EV Compensation to +1, especially if I am shooting birds against the sky, or -1 if I am shooting a bright bird against a dark background. The problem comes when the bird is in an environment with very large dynamic range, like trees shadows with sunlight through the branches, or when the bird is moving between darker and lighter backgrounds. I have found that in these cases, Manual settings make a big difference. Most photographers that specialize in birds recommend back button focusing, I guess I’ll try it, but it takes up programmable buttons I’d like to use for other things. An area you did not touch on is how and when you determine your ISO. Do you set it for each shot, or do you set it depending on the environment (sunny day, cloudy day, thick forest …), or something in-between.
I usually set whichever settings I think will work best at the start of the shoot and adjust when necessary. My go to iso is usually 1600 as I shoot a lot in overcast
Really, you should try BBF and auto ISO with exposure comp. If you shoot wildlife. It will seriously increase your keeper rate. Every camera is different. But, if you have mirrorless and a high frame rate, this will help you lock the focus. I have a button for spot and one for auto eye tracking. It feels like cheating! You still have to set shutter and aperture. The latter being the biggest challenge depending on your lens. Believe me, there is still a lot of decisions to make based on this set up to get it right! Good luck.
Hi Jan.... One of your best videos ever.. I learnt about evaluative metering, I had been using spot metering. I love the training excercise you have suggested. Thank you. I am still on a learning curve with Lightroom and I have your Pro Sets. They really help. I am working my way through Anthony Morganti Lightroom training. Once I am competent with LRC I will definitely get your Photoshop training.
I've watched a number of your other videos, Jan (setting up back button focus on my 3 week old R5 (stepped up from an M50 and love it!)), but this video was especially good because you gave great examples of conditions and situations in the field. Really well done. You've taught me a ton!
This was an excellent review, Jan; thank you. I could never wrap my head around back-button focusing, but when I got my R5 and watched your set-up video, you explained the need for it so well. It made perfect sense and I had, surprisingly, zero trouble adapting to double back-button focusing.
I use FV mode with auto ISO on my R5 with BBF - I set the aperture and shutter speed, then I can just spin the wheel on the back to change exposure compensation. I love the customisation that's now possible on modern cameras.
I always learn something new from your videos! I shoot with the R5 100-500. My favorite time to shoot is early morning. I struggle with noise, even shooting wide open at 7.1. I’m trying to get better at using slower shutter speeds and still producing sharp shots. I think a lot of folks use this combo, or similar zooms lens that don’t stop down to F4! It would be great to see a video dedicated to these challenges. Thanks!
Very good information covering most things. I use back button focus which on my camera over rides the continuous eye focus until you stop. I prefer to use manual mode and to control everything including ISO because it may raise the ISO too high particularly on white birds. I stopped using the histogram because too slow for me and rely on blinkies to identify over exposed parts of my photo. I love your comments on finding the bird in the viewfinder as using a 600mm lens with a 1.4 extender on an APSc camera can be a challenge but the only real answer is practice.
You taught me many of these tips a couple of years ago, Jan and I still use them today. The big prime lens definitely makes it more difficult to get the subject in flight, but that last tip has been a huge help. I'm going to give evaluative metering a try and I might also stop down a bit to get my subjects sharper throughout. Thanks for yet another very informative video. :)
More great info as a am getting used to shooting my Z8 w/180-600. Your videos on the Z8 have been my best source of help! Today I will be working on getting my targets in the viewfinder! Thanks for all your advice!
@@jan_wegener Have you ever considered doing a video on the best way to set up and shoot Z8 video that doesn’t create huge files that are also difficult to edit! Previously my Nikons have been terrible for video! Any help is appreciated!
I use Canon's FV mode most of the time. I manually set the aperture and shutter speed with auto ISO. FV mode lets me quickly switch any of the settings, including exposure compensation, without lifting my eye from the camera and using just two dials. Also, I always use double BBF.
Hi Jan, thank you for sharing your expertise in this educational clip. After a full day with my new/second hand EF600 f4 ii @ R5 in the Ammersee region I compleatly agree what to train. As you said eye hand coordination but further more by biceps 🥵. Have a great day und Grüße aus München 😊
Thanks for all the reminders we tend to forget. I mostly use full manual with dual back button, always use evaluative in other modes. On the r7 fv mode I find easier with the dial set for ex comp.
That was a really good overview of the real basics that you need to take good bird photos. Jan, I've followed you for some time and you're really preaching to the converted here. I shoot manual. I do double back button focus and I try to shoot at a reasonably high shutter speed (1/2000 to 1/4000+ for BIF) , if possible, in anticipation of action. I stop down 1 stop. The one thing I do it's a bit different for birds in flight, especially smaller, fast moving birds like swallows that are very hard to locate, is use a dot sight. Allows me to instantly get the bird in the frame. Granted, the auto focus has to be on the game so to speak. This is a work in progress, with pre-focusing where you think the bird will be. So I have a lot of soft images but I also get keepers. You've been a big help to my photography and I thank you very much.
Great tips, Jan, and I really appreciate the peek behind your typical techniques and settings choices! I've become a fan of Fv mode on my Canon mirrorless cameras. It's very much like Manual + Auto ISO, but to me feels a bit more intuitive to select which setting to change--one scroll wheel to select the setting (shutter speed or aperture, for example), and another to dial it in. And there's the bonus of one of the available settings being exposure compensation. It all just comes together nicely, I think!
Great video, This is the type of content I enjoy: education plus your shots of beautiful birds. I'd say your advice points towards manual with auto ISO. As you point out the two most important settings are shutter speed and aperature. Why alter these settings in order to chose an ISO? Let the camera do that and use NR software as needed. With the control ring on the RF100-500 I can quickly dial in exposure compensation as needed.
Good tips. Just knowing my Canon 250D is way behind the mirrorless cameras when it comes focusing, it's a bit sad. Seems like I really have to upgrade to a camera like R10 etc when can afford. It's just frustrating trying to take photos of small moving birds with my 250D + 55-250mm IS STM. Expensive lens would help of course, but out my reach.
FV, only Fv. I set 3 different combinations, basically according to the shutter speed or ISO and assign to C1, C2, C3. I can switch C1,C2,C3 lightning fast by pressing M-Fn button which is customized to C.
I have set my r6mk2 to back button focus on c1 and DUEL bbf on c2 I have gotten used to is sort of but I switch from 1 to 2 during shooting BIF still working on finding birds in view finder! very tough for me but I keep working on it! thanks for a great video!
Thanks Jan for sharing your experiences with us again. Still learning a lot from it. I am also a big fan of your Lightroom presets. I am using them quite frequently. I was just thinking if this presets still requires a white balance adjustment? Usually its fine for me without but maybe you have a different opinion. I couldn't find it in your master class video. Greetings from Germany Marc
Great video Jan :) Your info on DOF focus is spot on ! I think a lot of RUclips photographers either don't really pay much attention to this, or at least, just forget to mention this in their videos. I shoot a LOT of very small birds, from close ranges (13-20ft). Recently while shooting with the rented 200-800, I found that stopping down to F11.... even F13, helped a lot with getting more of my small birds sharp, and increased my number of keepers a LOT ! Funny how so many folks are worried if F9 is fast enough, and I was stopping mine down :)
A very thorough overview, thanks. I use an R7, mostly for birding. For exposure, I'm a big fan of M with AutoISO, with the main dial to control shutter speed, the lens control ring for aperture, and the quick control dial to control exposure compensation. I typically rely on birds-eye AF and tracking, with one back button for perched birds and one for birds-in-flight, which is easy to do with the Register/Recall function. Though I don't often use a spot AF, when I need it, I either switch to another Custom mode or use a cross key on the rear D-dial directional to disable servo AF and tracking. I find this gives me rapid access to all the settings, which is so important for flighty small birds.
I shoot with an R6 Mark II and an R7. Right now I use a sort of hybrid focusing method in manual mode for perched birds: the standard single point focus is assigned to the AF-On button and the subject and eye tracking is assigned to the shutter button with the single autofocus point; on my R6 Mark II, Whole Area Servo AF is turned off, but Animal Detection and Eye Tracking is left on. This may seem strange and counterintuitive, but the main reason I do this is because the back buttons (especially the AF-On button) seem to have a minor delay before the autofocus kicks in, which is something I don’t really like in the field; as such I’ve delegated the AF-On button for my single point and the other back buttons for instant flight shot autofocus settings or subject tracking. The R7 unfortunately doesn’t have a menu tab for Whole Area Servo AF (only Subject Tracking), which is something that really separates the R6 Mark II from the R7. This was a real bummer when I realized it. This setting on the R6 Mark II actually does allow tracking outside your spot AF, but it is much tamer and doesn’t jump all over the place (one of the reasons it is so useful). The R7 doesn’t have this, so the autofocus is often much jumpier. Over time I’m starting to see just how much better the R6 Mark II is in terms of raw performance and speed. It’s actually a cool thing to experiment with. Switch the Whole Area Servo AF off, but leave Animal Tracking and Eye Detection on and use a single autofocus point. You will find that the camera does indeed track the subject outside of the spot autofocus point, but it is much tamer.
Jan - your I found your video on the R5 back focusing preset and setting up a custom setting and it improved my birding photography by 100%. In fact it works for all kinds of animals. I started in photography when I was 12 years old and turned semi-pro 25 years ago and you have taught me so much since I found you. Thank you so much for your amazing instructional videos. Just a thought - do you offer instructional photo tours? I would jump all over that opportunity.
I’m in Manual with Auto-ISO 90% of the time, and I pop into full Manual when the situation calls for it. Exposure comp is always assigned to the lens control ring, which i can operate with my left or right fingers easily. I use Matrix metering, or in special cases spot metering, but a favorite alternative lately is Nikon’s Highlight-weighted metering mode (though not necessarily used in wildlife / action). Since moving to mirrorless, I’m using shutter button AF activation and my AF-ON is actually set to AF Lock for when it’s needed. My logic there is my thumb is relieved of its full time focusing job and free for other tasks, since it’s rare i need to lock focus. Less fingers working less frequently, with the same results. Also for other genres, I sometimes need to shoot one-handed. Either for lower angles, or I’m holding a light or reflector, etc. So I also try to keep that muscle memory intact.
Hi Jan, I already try follow these guidelines, which I mostly picked up from your earlier videos .. but the better I follow this, the fewer shots I take which which can be rejected within a second .. so I end up with a harder culling job 😛
Nice vid as always Jan. I was using Manual + Auto ISO but in reading through the comments notice a few people using FV on their Canon R7's which allows for exposure compensation. I have my control ring adaptor set for EC but as you mentioned it won't function in Manual + Auto ISO, so I will now try FV mode.👍
These are great tips, Jan. I have been shooting in shutter priority with a fast shutter speed for most of my bird shots, but that gives ne a wide open f-stop so my depth of field isn’t always good. I’ll definitely take your advice and slow the shutter speed down unless I need it for action.
I use mostly FV mode. The main reason I switched to that mode it that allowed me to set up my R5 and R7 the closest to the same since the R7 doesn't have a third dial . Now, all the lens I use are native RF and have a control ring. I may switch back to full manual since I can do this and keep the control setups very similar. I have been using BBF for years now. I set one button for eye tracking, the other for spot incase the camera gets confused.
I use auto iso with exposure compensation only when I’m shooting active and moving subject (mostly wildlife) but if the shot is on a stationary scene or object like landscape or a scenic scene like a indoor shot, then I use manual iso. This includes night time. Though it all depends how much light is around at each moment whether I want to use auto iso or not. So I don’t always use auto iso. It just depends on the situation. All my cameras have back button auto focus.
Hi Jan I have been using M with Auto ISO.. Very happy with this as I can keep an eye on the ISO and adjust it with shutter speed or aperture if it gets to high. I have upper limit set to 12800 ISO, R7 with RF100-500
You could focus and recompose with a DLSR and still can with mirrorless by holding by holding down the shutter half way to focus and hold it there and do the full press when you recompose. This is a little tricky and requires you to redo this for every image. I agree that back button is better. On a tripod you can focus on a perch and leave it there for many images and not have to refocus if you use back button. There is also a mode in most cameras that you can use if you aren't comfortable with full manual. If you use auto iso, you can set a minimum shutter speed and a maximum iso. Then you can use aperture priority for depth of field control and let the camera adjust iso and shutter speed and still get a sharp image since it keeps the shutter speed above your minimum. You do still have the problem of changing exposure with the brightness of the background for bif, but it is a half step to full manual.
On my Nikon I like aperture priority because I can control my shutter speed with my ISO dial and get all my settings to whatever I want. Another way I like to shoot to get the same results is in manual mode with auto ISO.
Excellent video once again Jan ! Great points. I am surely learning to use full manual mode from your teachings so thanks for that. I have been using aperture priority for some time and now have started to use manual mode more often. Love your prosets too!! Keep up the great work👍🏾
To avoid rolling shutter on my sony a7iv I assigned a button to switch silent mode on and off which allows me to quickly jump from electronic shutter to mechanical shutter
hello Jan, thanks for the advises. i use M with auto iso and spot metering all the time, but it really does not work on my favorite black bush robin when the BG is a bot bright.
I have the Canon R7, and like someone else mentioned not having a 3rd dial compared to my R6 was a disadvantage. I tried FV mode, but went back to full Manual. Front dial for shutter. Back dial for AV and hold down DOF button and Front Dial for ISO. Would of prefered Back dial for ISO but no option for hold down button for AV. Also have dual back button focus which is definitely needed for the R7.
Thanks for another informative video. With my new Z8 and a 500mm pf with a 1.4 teleconverter, I typically shoot in manual mode with auto ISO. I am usually photographing birds at and around my feeders. The depth of field is therefore very narrow, often too narrow. I will take your advice and try stopping down one and two stops to increase the depth of field. Thanks. On another topic that I commented on previously regarding problems I was having editing Z8 raw photos in Apple Photos and Lightroom, I figured out that I can upload my photos from an sd card directly into Lightroom on my iPad, without having to go through Apple Photos. Uploading my Z8 raw photos directly into Lightroom lets me edit the photos without any problems.
For those of you who have read here about my struggles to edit the Z8 raw photos in the Apple Photo app, today I discovered that the Apple Photo app is compatible with the Z8 lossless compressed format, however not with the Z8 raw high efficiency format. At lease that’s the situation with me. I hope that clarifies things for those who care.
I almost never want, need or a able to close down the apeture when shooting wildlife. That is why I find shutter proirity mode with EV compensation as needed the most suitable. Camera cranks the ISO when it is dark and on those rare occasions when it is too bright it will close the apeture usually just a bit. That way S mode works almost like M mode with auto ISO. At the same time M mode with auto ISO is great as in those rare ocassions it gives me control over the apeture is neccessary. Of course in case of certain lenses I shoot at apeture sweetspot which in case of slow lenses is often wide open due to the diffraction. You mentioned that nailing shutter speed is most crucial aspect, which I tottaly agree, so why you don't recommend S mode? Do you see any downsides? I find it easiest to concentrate on nailing the shutter speed in that mode. I live however in Poland where too much light is rather rare circumstance.
For me it's simple: Shutter Priority, auto ISO, quick exposure compensation available. This is because I've never owned a lens capable of such a bright aperture that I'd have to worry about depth of field being too shallow. If I found myself shooting with a 600mm F4 then I'd possibly change to full manual in order to stop it down a bit.
I use Aperture priority with ISO minimum shutter speed. This means if camera reaches my maximum ISO it will start lowing shutter speed, while overexposure is protected by increasing shutter speed once ISO gets down to 100. I have tried manual, but get caught out if situation changes quickly. My default minimum shutter speed is 1/1000s, but I will increase if shooting birds flying, or lower if ISO is getting uncomfortably high. I mostly shoot with aperture wide open, as I like bokeh. An exception will be if multiple subjects in frame. I have metering linked to focus point which I find more often gives me the desired exposure.
What I do with my R5 is in manual mode I select the aperture and shutter speed I want for my specific motive and then only adjust the ISO per dial for the actual exposure because with De-Noise existing it's the least relevant setting so to say.
Hi Jan, many thanks for this very helpful video! May I ask one question regarding this Manual Mode + Auto ISO? I like the idea a lot, so I have tried it and what i get is that the Camera (Canon R7 + RF 100-400 f5.6-8), for whatever reason, sets the ISO to a relatively high value (like 6,400) and then starts "compensating" by driving the Exposure compensation deep into minus territory (like -3). I do not want the camera to "play" with the Exposure compensation, but just want it to change the ISO as appropriate given the light conditions. Is there a way to address this issue - or perhaps i missing something obvious here? Thank you in advance
Thanks Jan. I do not like auto ISO for birds in flight because the exposure will possibly change from one frame to the next giving you some well exposed images and some poorly exposed. Also, for two or more images in a sequence, with auto ISO, the post processing will likely need to be different even the white balance. Cheers!!!
Very nicely compiled video, Jan. Do you happen to have any comparison of eye tracking across canon, sony and nikon? I shoot with an R6 and double back button AF, but I recently witnessed Sony A9 iii and A7 R5 and they are literally running circles around Canon!
Great video, really shared a lot of important information. Enjoy practicing these in the field. I shoot M ISO Auto and trying FV at times. Also only shoot JPEG as I need to learn RAW. I find JPEG upload and onto socials for work quick and easy on the road with the motorcycle tours. I feel the same with video and possibly should at some stage learn the process from RAW for stills and C Log for video. Results would be better, but I feel like it’s time away from customers around the fire.
fully metered manual mode here. Tried manual + auto ISO, my R3 never really got it right. With the R3, I can easily adjust shutter speed, aperture and ISO on the fly via 3 assigned buttons. After shooting a lot over the past 18 months, I've gotten pretty good at guessing my initial exposure settings for the lighting conditions. I do tend to shoot at f8 and 1/1000 for static birds and float the ISO accordingly. I'm also more aware of highlights and tend to underexpose to preserve highlights. I do find the R3's histogram difficult to discern when highlights are encroaching the Right and the lack of Zebras for blown highlights on the actual EVF image is a real nuisance for me (blinkies are hard to see on a predominantly White bird with a bright background). Something like OM system has with their excellent OM-1 would be nice. If only Canon would listen... I still get things wrong in the heat of the moment (my ADHD/ASD brain doesn't function well on quick changes on the fly typically - it takes a bit more for me to register change and the need for different amended settings), but my keeper rate is getting better as time goes by and my experiences are improved. It certainly helps that the R3's amazing AF system lets me concentrate on other things such as exposure and composition better than older DSLRs ever did. edit: BBF - I adopted this 18 months ago after watching your and Duade's videos. Haven't looked back.
I've been using Manual mode with auto Iso but i set an iso range from 400-3200 (typ). My old camera doesn't perform well with high ISOs so i don't even bother using 6400 and above.
Hi Jan, great video especially being general and not brand specific. I’ve tried BBF a few times and just don’t get it. Too use over years of half press. In saying that I was thinking of trying it with my OM-1. Not sure how it works with pro capture in syncing finger movements. I’m not a typist or piano player so finger coordination is not great. Something else to learn. It would be good to get some clear weather.
@@jan_wegenerI looked up your video of about a year ago on BBF and DBBF. I have set up the camera to at least BBF and will give it a try. The issue with pro capture was not so much would it work with BBF but whether I’m quick enough on the release button. On the one button it is pretty simple reflex wise. Anyway, I’ll give it a go. 👍🏻
I guess I am an outlier as I use Tv for wildlife and BIF as I first want to freeze the action. With the longer lenses that I use which have small apertures at the long end i.e. f/7.1 on the RF 100-500 and f/10 with a 1.4TC, the lens is always as wide open as it is capable of unless I am in the blazing sun. Rarely the case as I shoot early morning and late afternoon for the light.
With the weather this summer, hot and humid, it has been a struggle finding birds that want to be photographed. Early morning golden hour has not been great as it is usually extremely humid despite lowest temperatures for the day. I have found it is better around 8-10 am. Like me, birds don’t like the end of the day much. 🥵
2 important things were missed here EV dial. -1 for white bights with feathers in the sun to protect highlights.+1 for dark birds. use this in any autoISO mode EE-1 is the first (olympus) product you should buy. Dot sight for when you cant risk to miss a bird in flight.
So, I followed your instructions and now my camera won't focus or will take something like 5 times pressing the back button focus to actually get a focus? Any idea what went wrong? And how I can fix it? Thanks!
Oddly enough, my RF 100-500mm at 500mm is sharpest wide open at f/7.1. Fine details are noticeably degraded at f/11, f/10, f/9, and even f/8. The sweet spot with my Sigma 60-600mm was f/8-f/9, so I was not expecting f/7.1 to be the best aperture on my RF 100-500mm (at 500mm). It pays to do the experiment to know for sure!
one special call out -
about the last point you mentioned -' finding the subject in the view finder '
This time you talked about this technique in general , but I watched an old video of yours where you talked about - how to setup the Gimbal head properly and free up one side of your vision to find the subject with your eye and then quickly go back to the view finder and track the subject through view finder. It was an amazing technique that helped me setup my gimbal when I was transitioning to Long Primes. While finding the subject in the view finder is very important trick , finding it through a long prime (600/800 mm ) is even more trickier and that video was life changing :))
I know that most of us now would use high quality zooms and light weight primes and would not need gimbal on the field , but for what its worth , knowing the gimbal technique was quite cool since I mostly do a lot of forest birding and my setup is monopod + gimbal .. :))
about the Manual + Auto ISO
- Mastering it is the key . A lot of the time we would also dial in exposure compensation with it and would become Manual + Auto ISO + Exposure Compensation.
while its a lot to take in and apply .. once you have programmed your mind with it , there is nothing like it . And with the advent of Mirrorless cameras , where you can enable histogram in the view finder and also see the effect of your changes real time - one could say -' its magic' ..
but going back the first thing I said , programming the whole thing in your mind is the key and for that - ' Practice ... practice .. practice ..' :D
What a wealth of information, Jan! Even when we've been photographing birds for years, there are always new things to learn or ways to use the information we already know with greater effectiveness. Your channel and your editing tools are amazing resources, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Jan, Excellent overview - mini master class! Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Jen, I use auto iso or manual. I use triple back button focus, eye tracking, center zone, and spot focus, I find center zone great for BIF. When birds are flying against various backgrounds, like from sky to trees eye tracking can lose the birds against the trees. I switch to center zone to track the birds against busier backgrounds and can switch back instantly to eye tracking.
I wish canon would add highlight alerts to the view finder instead of only after a photo is taken.
Hi Jan, I shoot Manual mode + Auto ISO + Exposure compensation. I tend to expose to the right as much as possible. Also, I try to have high shutter speed rarely lower than 1/1000. By the way, I just enjoy these types of videos. You nailed it Jan !
Fv + Auto ISO + exposure compensation
Thanks for sharing Steve
Well said @steveparent8788! I do exactly the same as you in the field!
@@Acadien56 Merci Jean! Thanks John!
These were all great points to remember - I definitely need to work on the last skill you mentioned!
It’s the one that makes the biggest change
With all my DSLRs I used full manual mode and single back button focus with manual override on a macro lens, with my R7 I still use single back button focus with manual override but have switched to the FV mode which I use the same as manual mode, I can change my settings without taking the view finder from my eye, I shoot mainly dragonflies and damselflies inflight.
I love back button focus. I discovered it one day when I purchased a second hand dslr. The lovely 'ol gentleman was going through the camera and mentioned BBFocus and I have never looked back!! I have since changed all my cameras!
Being doing a lot of "target practice" since you mentioned it in one of your previous videos. Think I'm getting much better!
Great episode! Thank you!
I designed a crosshair cardboard frame mounted on my hot shoe for hand / eye coordination training 😉
That is awesome!
An outstanding and concise summary of techniques and settings. I shoot full manual and BBF. Your presentation has really encouraged me to continue these great practices.
Great!
Hi Jan, I shoot most of my images in M /auto ISO. The last point you made hits home with me! Ive been very frustrated, when I suddenly see a bird in flight, I can’t find it in my view finder, I miss the shot! I’m going to go out in the farm fields this weekend and practice this tip. I use back button focus , is amazing . If you don’t mind me asking, where do you focus when taking an image of multiple birds on a branch to get them all in focus? Thank you 😊
Great tips. I use the BBF and ☆-button for eye tracking with the canon R6M2. Also a "panic"-button on the square for shutterspeed 3200. Works great.
Full manual, single back button focus. Great pointers, I always learn something thank you for taking the time to put your videos together and sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Well described techniques! I don't no if this has been mentioned in these comments but another reason to use BBAF is, if the you and the bird is stationary, you can focus on the eye, release the BB and shoot a burst. This locks the focus on the eye and eliminates the "pulsing" of the focus so you don't get those mysterious OOF shots in the burst.
As for finding the subject in the viewfinder, I think of staring at the bird, then without looking away or at the camera, just put the camera in front of my eye and viola, the bird is usually right there! I developed this skill from many, many years of birding, using this technique with my binoculars.
I use back button focus but I haven’t disabled the shutter focus. I use both and the back button for locking on the eyes. I shoot manual with auto ISO. I use a separate dial for exposure compensation. All settings are saved and registered. So when I’m birding I just turn the camera on.
I use full manual mode but have recently been doing so through FV mode. On my R7 its so easy using one dial to quickly cycle to aperture, shutter speed or ISO, and the other dial to change the value.
I often use the FV mode which I find very versatile. Allows you to have these 4 variants simultaneously (aperture, speed, Iso and light compensation (in manual mode there is no light compensation; there is one less variant).
Thanks a lot.
Great video, very straight forward, and clear. There are so many styles for camera settings. Mark Galer (Sony), for instance, recommends Aperture Priority with “Aperture Priority Min. Shutter Speed and Auto ISO (setting the range), and with shutter Button Focus. I find this works about 80% of the time, factoring in EV Compensation. If I use this method, I usually will set EV Compensation to +1, especially if I am shooting birds against the sky, or -1 if I am shooting a bright bird against a dark background. The problem comes when the bird is in an environment with very large dynamic range, like trees shadows with sunlight through the branches, or when the bird is moving between darker and lighter backgrounds. I have found that in these cases, Manual settings make a big difference. Most photographers that specialize in birds recommend back button focusing, I guess I’ll try it, but it takes up programmable buttons I’d like to use for other things. An area you did not touch on is how and when you determine your ISO. Do you set it for each shot, or do you set it depending on the environment (sunny day, cloudy day, thick forest …), or something in-between.
I usually set whichever settings I think will
work best at the start of the shoot and adjust when necessary.
My go to iso is usually 1600 as I shoot a lot in overcast
Really, you should try BBF and auto ISO with exposure comp. If you shoot wildlife. It will seriously increase your keeper rate. Every camera is different. But, if you have mirrorless and a high frame rate, this will help you lock the focus. I have a button for spot and one for auto eye tracking. It feels like cheating! You still have to set shutter and aperture. The latter being the biggest challenge depending on your lens. Believe me, there is still a lot of decisions to make based on this set up to get it right! Good luck.
You are an amazing nature photographer and also a great teacher. Thank you very much and greetings from Spain!
Thank you so much 😀
Hi Jan.... One of your best videos ever.. I learnt about evaluative metering, I had been using spot metering. I love the training excercise you have suggested. Thank you. I am still on a learning curve with Lightroom and I have your Pro Sets. They really help. I am working my way through Anthony Morganti Lightroom training. Once I am competent with LRC I will definitely get your Photoshop training.
Great! I may have some LR stuff coming at some stage too 😉
I've watched a number of your other videos, Jan (setting up back button focus on my 3 week old R5 (stepped up from an M50 and love it!)), but this video was especially good because you gave great examples of conditions and situations in the field. Really well done. You've taught me a ton!
Hello Jan, thank you for your video, great tips to remember! I use back button focus and full manual mode.
This was an excellent review, Jan; thank you. I could never wrap my head around back-button focusing, but when I got my R5 and watched your set-up video, you explained the need for it so well. It made perfect sense and I had, surprisingly, zero trouble adapting to double back-button focusing.
Great to hear!
I use FV mode with auto ISO on my R5 with BBF - I set the aperture and shutter speed, then I can just spin the wheel on the back to change exposure compensation. I love the customisation that's now possible on modern cameras.
I always learn something new from your videos! I shoot with the R5 100-500. My favorite time to shoot is early morning. I struggle with noise, even shooting wide open at 7.1. I’m trying to get better at using slower shutter speeds and still producing sharp shots. I think a lot of folks use this combo, or similar zooms lens that don’t stop down to F4! It would be great to see a video dedicated to these challenges. Thanks!
Very good information covering most things. I use back button focus which on my camera over rides the continuous eye focus until you stop. I prefer to use manual mode and to control everything including ISO because it may raise the ISO too high particularly on white birds. I stopped using the histogram because too slow for me and rely on blinkies to identify over exposed parts of my photo. I love your comments on finding the bird in the viewfinder as using a 600mm lens with a 1.4 extender on an APSc camera can be a challenge but the only real answer is practice.
You taught me many of these tips a couple of years ago, Jan and I still use them today. The big prime lens definitely makes it more difficult to get the subject in flight, but that last tip has been a huge help. I'm going to give evaluative metering a try and I might also stop down a bit to get my subjects sharper throughout. Thanks for yet another very informative video. :)
Great points for us all to remember. I too need to continue to improve on that last skill you mentioned. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
More great info as a am getting used to shooting my Z8 w/180-600. Your videos on the Z8 have been my best source of help! Today I will be working on getting my targets in the viewfinder! Thanks for all your advice!
Awesome to hear!
@@jan_wegener Have you ever considered doing a video on the best way to set up and shoot Z8 video that doesn’t create huge files that are also difficult to edit! Previously my Nikons have been terrible for video! Any help is appreciated!
Thank you for your great tips and share your experience from many hours in the field, best regards Roland
My pleasure!
I use Canon's FV mode most of the time. I manually set the aperture and shutter speed with auto ISO. FV mode lets me quickly switch any of the settings, including exposure compensation, without lifting my eye from the camera and using just two dials. Also, I always use double BBF.
Yes FV is great, but only a few camera do it, so I’d don’t go too far into it, maybe worth an extra video
@@jan_wegener yes. That's a Canon-only feature that more makers should adopt IMO.
Hi Jan, thank you for sharing your expertise in this educational clip. After a full day with my new/second hand EF600 f4 ii @ R5 in the Ammersee region I compleatly agree what to train. As you said eye hand coordination but further more by biceps 🥵. Have a great day und Grüße aus München 😊
Thanks for all the reminders we tend to forget. I mostly use full manual with dual back button, always use evaluative in other modes. On the r7 fv mode I find easier with the dial set for ex comp.
Yes that makes sense
Very helpful reminders!
That was a really good overview of the real basics that you need to take good bird photos. Jan, I've followed you for some time and you're really preaching to the converted here. I shoot manual. I do double back button focus and I try to shoot at a reasonably high shutter speed (1/2000 to 1/4000+ for BIF) , if possible, in anticipation of action. I stop down 1 stop.
The one thing I do it's a bit different for birds in flight, especially smaller, fast moving birds like swallows that are very hard to locate, is use a dot sight. Allows me to instantly get the bird in the frame. Granted, the auto focus has to be on the game so to speak. This is a work in progress, with pre-focusing where you think the bird will be. So I have a lot of soft images but I also get keepers. You've been a big help to my photography and I thank you very much.
Great video as akways , for ywars i have used M with auto ISO , I'm going to try setting the ISO myself using your guidelines
Great tips, Jan, and I really appreciate the peek behind your typical techniques and settings choices! I've become a fan of Fv mode on my Canon mirrorless cameras. It's very much like Manual + Auto ISO, but to me feels a bit more intuitive to select which setting to change--one scroll wheel to select the setting (shutter speed or aperture, for example), and another to dial it in. And there's the bonus of one of the available settings being exposure compensation. It all just comes together nicely, I think!
Great video, This is the type of content I enjoy: education plus your shots of beautiful birds. I'd say your advice points towards manual with auto ISO. As you point out the two most important settings are shutter speed and aperature. Why alter these settings in order to chose an ISO? Let the camera do that and use NR software as needed. With the control ring on the RF100-500 I can quickly dial in exposure compensation as needed.
Good tips. Just knowing my Canon 250D is way behind the mirrorless cameras when it comes focusing, it's a bit sad. Seems like I really have to upgrade to a camera like R10 etc when can afford. It's just frustrating trying to take photos of small moving birds with my 250D + 55-250mm IS STM. Expensive lens would help of course, but out my reach.
FV, only Fv.
I set 3 different combinations, basically according to the shutter speed or ISO and assign to C1, C2, C3.
I can switch C1,C2,C3 lightning fast by pressing M-Fn button which is customized to C.
Thanks for sharing
I have set my r6mk2 to back button focus on c1 and DUEL bbf on c2 I have gotten used to is sort of but I switch from 1 to 2 during shooting BIF still working on finding birds in view finder! very tough for me but I keep working on it! thanks for a great video!
Thanks Jan for sharing your experiences with us again. Still learning a lot from it. I am also a big fan of your Lightroom presets. I am using them quite frequently. I was just thinking if this presets still requires a white balance adjustment? Usually its fine for me without but maybe you have a different opinion. I couldn't find it in your master class video. Greetings from Germany Marc
Great video Jan :) Your info on DOF focus is spot on ! I think a lot of RUclips photographers either don't really pay much attention to this, or at least, just forget to mention this in their videos. I shoot a LOT of very small birds, from close ranges (13-20ft). Recently while shooting with the rented 200-800, I found that stopping down to F11.... even F13, helped a lot with getting more of my small birds sharp, and increased my number of keepers a LOT ! Funny how so many folks are worried if F9 is fast enough, and I was stopping mine down :)
exactly! Thanks for sharing
A very thorough overview, thanks. I use an R7, mostly for birding. For exposure, I'm a big fan of M with AutoISO, with the main dial to control shutter speed, the lens control ring for aperture, and the quick control dial to control exposure compensation. I typically rely on birds-eye AF and tracking, with one back button for perched birds and one for birds-in-flight, which is easy to do with the Register/Recall function. Though I don't often use a spot AF, when I need it, I either switch to another Custom mode or use a cross key on the rear D-dial directional to disable servo AF and tracking. I find this gives me rapid access to all the settings, which is so important for flighty small birds.
Very clear presentation and examples. I highly admire your mastery
Thank you kindly!
I shoot with an R6 Mark II and an R7. Right now I use a sort of hybrid focusing method in manual mode for perched birds: the standard single point focus is assigned to the AF-On button and the subject and eye tracking is assigned to the shutter button with the single autofocus point; on my R6 Mark II, Whole Area Servo AF is turned off, but Animal Detection and Eye Tracking is left on. This may seem strange and counterintuitive, but the main reason I do this is because the back buttons (especially the AF-On button) seem to have a minor delay before the autofocus kicks in, which is something I don’t really like in the field; as such I’ve delegated the AF-On button for my single point and the other back buttons for instant flight shot autofocus settings or subject tracking. The R7 unfortunately doesn’t have a menu tab for Whole Area Servo AF (only Subject Tracking), which is something that really separates the R6 Mark II from the R7. This was a real bummer when I realized it. This setting on the R6 Mark II actually does allow tracking outside your spot AF, but it is much tamer and doesn’t jump all over the place (one of the reasons it is so useful). The R7 doesn’t have this, so the autofocus is often much jumpier. Over time I’m starting to see just how much better the R6 Mark II is in terms of raw performance and speed.
It’s actually a cool thing to experiment with. Switch the Whole Area Servo AF off, but leave Animal Tracking and Eye Detection on and use a single autofocus point. You will find that the camera does indeed track the subject outside of the spot autofocus point, but it is much tamer.
Jan - your I found your video on the R5 back focusing preset and setting up a custom setting and it improved my birding photography by 100%. In fact it works for all kinds of animals. I started in photography when I was 12 years old and turned semi-pro 25 years ago and you have taught me so much since I found you. Thank you so much for your amazing instructional videos. Just a thought - do you offer instructional photo tours? I would jump all over that opportunity.
Not very often, but sometimes
I’m in Manual with Auto-ISO 90% of the time, and I pop into full Manual when the situation calls for it. Exposure comp is always assigned to the lens control ring, which i can operate with my left or right fingers easily. I use Matrix metering, or in special cases spot metering, but a favorite alternative lately is Nikon’s Highlight-weighted metering mode (though not necessarily used in wildlife / action).
Since moving to mirrorless, I’m using shutter button AF activation and my AF-ON is actually set to AF Lock for when it’s needed. My logic there is my thumb is relieved of its full time focusing job and free for other tasks, since it’s rare i need to lock focus. Less fingers working less frequently, with the same results. Also for other genres, I sometimes need to shoot one-handed. Either for lower angles, or I’m holding a light or reflector, etc. So I also try to keep that muscle memory intact.
Excellent summary of important exposure considerations
Hi Jan, I already try follow these guidelines, which I mostly picked up from your earlier videos .. but the better I follow this, the fewer shots I take which which can be rejected within a second .. so I end up with a harder culling job 😛
Best of luck!
Nice vid as always Jan. I was using Manual + Auto ISO but in reading through the comments notice a few people using FV on their Canon R7's which allows for exposure compensation. I have my control ring adaptor set for EC but as you mentioned it won't function in Manual + Auto ISO, so I will now try FV mode.👍
These are great tips, Jan. I have been shooting in shutter priority with a fast shutter speed for most of my bird shots, but that gives ne a wide open f-stop so my depth of field isn’t always good. I’ll definitely take your advice and slow the shutter speed down unless I need it for action.
Great video Jan. Did you move to Australia originally because the birds are so amazing?👍😀
I did 😆
I use manual with auto iso and matrix metering and sometimes exposure compensation on my Z 9 and Z 8
Hi Jan ,
Ik fotografeer ook ik Manuel mode alleen iso staat automatisch zodat ik nog kan composeren met de belichting over/onder belichten
I use mostly FV mode. The main reason I switched to that mode it that allowed me to set up my R5 and R7 the closest to the same since the R7 doesn't have a third dial . Now, all the lens I use are native RF and have a control ring. I may switch back to full manual since I can do this and keep the control setups very similar.
I have been using BBF for years now. I set one button for eye tracking, the other for spot incase the camera gets confused.
Great video as always Jan. I use 50-50 manual and manual with auto iso, and back button focus.
Wishing you a great week.
Cheers, Bjoern
I use auto iso with exposure compensation only when I’m shooting active and moving subject (mostly wildlife) but if the shot is on a stationary scene or object like landscape or a scenic scene like a indoor shot, then I use manual iso. This includes night time. Though it all depends how much light is around at each moment whether I want to use auto iso or not. So I don’t always use auto iso. It just depends on the situation. All my cameras have back button auto focus.
Hi Jan I have been using M with Auto ISO.. Very happy with this as I can keep an eye on the ISO and adjust it with shutter speed or aperture if it gets to high. I have upper limit set to 12800 ISO, R7 with RF100-500
Thanks for sharing!
You could focus and recompose with a DLSR and still can with mirrorless by holding by holding down the shutter half way to focus and hold it there and do the full press when you recompose. This is a little tricky and requires you to redo this for every image. I agree that back button is better. On a tripod you can focus on a perch and leave it there for many images and not have to refocus if you use back button.
There is also a mode in most cameras that you can use if you aren't comfortable with full manual. If you use auto iso, you can set a minimum shutter speed and a maximum iso. Then you can use aperture priority for depth of field control and let the camera adjust iso and shutter speed and still get a sharp image since it keeps the shutter speed above your minimum. You do still have the problem of changing exposure with the brightness of the background for bif, but it is a half step to full manual.
On my Nikon I like aperture priority because I can control my shutter speed with my ISO dial and get all my settings to whatever I want. Another way I like to shoot to get the same results is in manual mode with auto ISO.
Excellent video once again Jan ! Great points. I am surely learning to use full manual mode from your teachings so thanks for that. I have been using aperture priority for some time and now have started to use manual mode more often. Love your prosets too!! Keep up the great work👍🏾
With all the beautiful examples you show, do you have any plans for a printed book?
I’d love to do a book at some stage, but haven’t had the right opportunity yet
I am shooting manual mode and use the histogram, ETTR concept and back button AF.
that's the way :D
To avoid rolling shutter on my sony a7iv I assigned a button to switch silent mode on and off which allows me to quickly jump from electronic shutter to mechanical shutter
Yes, great idea!
Brilliant video , I use Manual mode with auto iso but you have inspired me to try full Manual
Have fun!
hello Jan, thanks for the advises. i use M with auto iso and spot metering all the time, but it really does not work on my favorite black bush robin when the BG is a bot bright.
I have the Canon R7, and like someone else mentioned not having a 3rd dial compared to my R6 was a disadvantage. I tried FV mode, but went back to full Manual. Front dial for shutter. Back dial for AV and hold down DOF button and Front Dial for ISO. Would of prefered Back dial for ISO but no option for hold down button for AV. Also have dual back button focus which is definitely needed for the R7.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for another informative video. With my new Z8 and a 500mm pf with a 1.4 teleconverter, I typically shoot in manual mode with auto ISO. I am usually photographing birds at and around my feeders. The depth of field is therefore very narrow, often too narrow. I will take your advice and try stopping down one and two stops to increase the depth of field. Thanks.
On another topic that I commented on previously regarding problems I was having editing Z8 raw photos in Apple Photos and Lightroom, I figured out that I can upload my photos from an sd card directly into Lightroom on my iPad, without having to go through Apple Photos. Uploading my Z8 raw photos directly into Lightroom lets me edit the photos without any problems.
For those of you who have read here about my struggles to edit the Z8 raw photos in the Apple Photo app, today I discovered that the Apple Photo app is compatible with the Z8 lossless compressed format, however not with the Z8 raw high efficiency format. At lease that’s the situation with me. I hope that clarifies things for those who care.
I almost never want, need or a able to close down the apeture when shooting wildlife. That is why I find shutter proirity mode with EV compensation as needed the most suitable. Camera cranks the ISO when it is dark and on those rare occasions when it is too bright it will close the apeture usually just a bit. That way S mode works almost like M mode with auto ISO. At the same time M mode with auto ISO is great as in those rare ocassions it gives me control over the apeture is neccessary. Of course in case of certain lenses I shoot at apeture sweetspot which in case of slow lenses is often wide open due to the diffraction.
You mentioned that nailing shutter speed is most crucial aspect, which I tottaly agree, so why you don't recommend S mode? Do you see any downsides? I find it easiest to concentrate on nailing the shutter speed in that mode. I live however in Poland where too much light is rather rare circumstance.
For me it's simple: Shutter Priority, auto ISO, quick exposure compensation available. This is because I've never owned a lens capable of such a bright aperture that I'd have to worry about depth of field being too shallow. If I found myself shooting with a 600mm F4 then I'd possibly change to full manual in order to stop it down a bit.
Great and helpful video! I use FV + Auto-ISO.
I use Aperture priority with ISO minimum shutter speed. This means if camera reaches my maximum ISO it will start lowing shutter speed, while overexposure is protected by increasing shutter speed once ISO gets down to 100. I have tried manual, but get caught out if situation changes quickly. My default minimum shutter speed is 1/1000s, but I will increase if shooting birds flying, or lower if ISO is getting uncomfortably high. I mostly shoot with aperture wide open, as I like bokeh. An exception will be if multiple subjects in frame. I have metering linked to focus point which I find more often gives me the desired exposure.
Thanks for sharing
What I do with my R5 is in manual mode I select the aperture and shutter speed I want for my specific motive and then only adjust the ISO per dial for the actual exposure because with De-Noise existing it's the least relevant setting so to say.
Hi Jan, many thanks for this very helpful video! May I ask one question regarding this Manual Mode + Auto ISO? I like the idea a lot, so I have tried it and what i get is that the Camera (Canon R7 + RF 100-400 f5.6-8), for whatever reason, sets the ISO to a relatively high value (like 6,400) and then starts "compensating" by driving the Exposure compensation deep into minus territory (like -3). I do not want the camera to "play" with the Exposure compensation, but just want it to change the ISO as appropriate given the light conditions. Is there a way to address this issue - or perhaps i missing something obvious here? Thank you in advance
Thanks Jan. I do not like auto ISO for birds in flight because the exposure will possibly change from one frame to the next giving you some well exposed images and some poorly exposed. Also, for two or more images in a sequence, with auto ISO, the post processing will likely need to be different even the white balance. Cheers!!!
Yes, that's I like full manual better
Buenísimo video Jan. Gracias
Very nicely compiled video, Jan. Do you happen to have any comparison of eye tracking across canon, sony and nikon?
I shoot with an R6 and double back button AF, but I recently witnessed Sony A9 iii and A7 R5 and they are literally running circles around Canon!
Canons best atm is probably the R6 II. I have not been using Sony much lately but will again soon
Hi Jan, I thought Exposure compensation doesn't work in Manual mode ? As I have tried it before and for some reason it never worked for me. Thanks :-)
Great video, really shared a lot of important information. Enjoy practicing these in the field. I shoot M ISO Auto and trying FV at times.
Also only shoot JPEG as I need to learn RAW. I find JPEG upload and onto socials for work quick and easy on the road with the motorcycle tours. I feel the same with video and possibly should at some stage learn the process from RAW for stills and C Log for video. Results would be better, but I feel like it’s time away from customers around the fire.
All comes down to what you want and how much time you want to spend editing
Thank you so much for the amazing video!!
Helped my a lot!!
You're welcome!
Brilliant as ever - thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
fully metered manual mode here. Tried manual + auto ISO, my R3 never really got it right. With the R3, I can easily adjust shutter speed, aperture and ISO on the fly via 3 assigned buttons. After shooting a lot over the past 18 months, I've gotten pretty good at guessing my initial exposure settings for the lighting conditions. I do tend to shoot at f8 and 1/1000 for static birds and float the ISO accordingly. I'm also more aware of highlights and tend to underexpose to preserve highlights. I do find the R3's histogram difficult to discern when highlights are encroaching the Right and the lack of Zebras for blown highlights on the actual EVF image is a real nuisance for me (blinkies are hard to see on a predominantly White bird with a bright background). Something like OM system has with their excellent OM-1 would be nice. If only Canon would listen...
I still get things wrong in the heat of the moment (my ADHD/ASD brain doesn't function well on quick changes on the fly typically - it takes a bit more for me to register change and the need for different amended settings), but my keeper rate is getting better as time goes by and my experiences are improved. It certainly helps that the R3's amazing AF system lets me concentrate on other things such as exposure and composition better than older DSLRs ever did.
edit: BBF - I adopted this 18 months ago after watching your and Duade's videos. Haven't looked back.
I've been using Manual mode with auto Iso but i set an iso range from 400-3200 (typ). My old camera doesn't perform well with high ISOs so i don't even bother using 6400 and above.
Thanks for another helpful video.
My pleasure!
Fantastic video seminar Jan , practice practice 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Jan, great video especially being general and not brand specific. I’ve tried BBF a few times and just don’t get it. Too use over years of half press. In saying that I was thinking of trying it with my OM-1. Not sure how it works with pro capture in syncing finger movements. I’m not a typist or piano player so finger coordination is not great. Something else to learn. It would be good to get some clear weather.
It shouldn’t matter with pro capture. I assume for it to work you will have to hold the back button
@@jan_wegenerI looked up your video of about a year ago on BBF and DBBF. I have set up the camera to at least BBF and will give it a try. The issue with pro capture was not so much would it work with BBF but whether I’m quick enough on the release button. On the one button it is pretty simple reflex wise. Anyway, I’ll give it a go. 👍🏻
Very helpful video Jan! Thanks 🙏🏻
I guess I am an outlier as I use Tv for wildlife and BIF as I first want to freeze the action. With the longer lenses that I use which have small apertures at the long end i.e. f/7.1 on the RF 100-500 and f/10 with a 1.4TC, the lens is always as wide open as it is capable of unless I am in the blazing sun. Rarely the case as I shoot early morning and late afternoon for the light.
Great review, Jan!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks....
Yan, do more birding sessions with the r7 and 100-500..
Can I use Pro Sets on my ipad with lightroom mobile
With the weather this summer, hot and humid, it has been a struggle finding birds that want to be photographed. Early morning golden hour has not been great as it is usually extremely humid despite lowest temperatures for the day. I have found it is better around 8-10 am. Like me, birds don’t like the end of the day much. 🥵
2 important things were missed here
EV dial. -1 for white bights with feathers in the sun to protect highlights.+1 for dark birds. use this in any autoISO mode
EE-1 is the first (olympus) product you should buy. Dot sight for when you cant risk to miss a bird in flight.
Thanks
Thank you!
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤beautiful
So, I followed your instructions and now my camera won't focus or will take something like 5 times pressing the back button focus to actually get a focus? Any idea what went wrong? And how I can fix it? Thanks!
You have to hold the button down
Oddly enough, my RF 100-500mm at 500mm is sharpest wide open at f/7.1. Fine details are noticeably degraded at f/11, f/10, f/9, and even f/8. The sweet spot with my Sigma 60-600mm was f/8-f/9, so I was not expecting f/7.1 to be the best aperture on my RF 100-500mm (at 500mm). It pays to do the experiment to know for sure!
Yea that’s one of the few lenses where it doesn’t help
why is there no depth of field calculator in camera?