I use the carbon one. Bought the knife almost 3 years ago and use it a lot for "normal" outdoors tasks. I am living close to the East Coast of Ireland. Very wet climate over here. So far my carbon Mora is holding up very well. I can recommend Mora to anybody.
The stainless really is not very much harder than the carbon. They're within a point or so of each other on the Rockwell. But the stainless has more abrasion resistance because of its chemistry, which makes it much harder to sharpen, so it seems harder to those who aren't familiar with steel composition and chemistry.. You're confusing hardiness with abrasion resistance. 1095 steel comes in several varieties, but can be just as hard as stainless. Hardness comes from how the steel is tempered. Some think bushcraft knives should be around 55 Rockwell, others want bushcraft knives that are around 59 Rockwell. 1095 can be either, according to how it's tempered. Abrasion resistance, which has nothing to do with hardness, comes from the composition chemistry of the steel. A stainless knife that's 59 on he Rockwell scale will seem much harder than a carbon knife that's also 59 on the Rockwell because of this abrasion resistance, but they both have the same hardness. It doesn't matter where you live, there are a lot of rocks that will strike sparks. And you only need one. You can and should, of course, carry a ferro rod, and both knives will strike it, but get caught with only a knife, and it had better be made of carbon. But the real advantage of 1095 carbon steel is that it has low abrasion resistance, which means that even if it's extremely hard, it's still very easy to sharpen. You can sharpen it to a razor edge on a river stone. You can't do this with stainless, well, with quality stainless, because of it's high abrasion resistance. If you ever get into a survival situation, you'll wish you had the carbon steel knife because you can keep it sharp, and even sharpen out a nicked edge. If your stainless knife gets dull or chipped in an emergency, it may be the death of you. This said, if you actually know what you're doing, you will never be caught n the wilderness without all the tools and gear on your belt and in your pockets that you need to survive. Real tools and gear, no mini survival kits that aren't worth spit. This includes at least two knives, one on your belt, and one in your pocket. The one in your pocket should have at least two blades. You should also have a backup belt knife, and a backup pocketknife, I your pack. A pocket size, quality sharpening stone should also be part of your gear. When this is the case, you shouldn't have to worry about having a sharp knife in an emergency. Good woodmen carry the Holy Trinity when going into the wild, and have for centuries. The Holy Trinity is a knife, a saw, and an axe of some sort, whether the axe is a well-designed tomahawk, a hatchet, a camp axe, or a full-size axe. Which axe to carry is personal choice, along with the time of year, where you live, and what you intend to do in the wilderness. Far more often than not, a tomahawk, assuming it's one made for work and not show, or a hatchet, is enough.
It is C100,not 1095.It's like Ka - bars marketing where there is no 1095 there too. These are different steels.They just put the 1095 label there because of it's popularity. Ka-Bars steel is far different than 1095 and both steels have different recipes and atributes.
C100 is the European equivalent to 1095. The 'ingredients' are very similar. C100 tends to be of slightly better quality compared to 1095 (grain structure, purity).
Thanks a lot for taking the time to write such an informative comment! I've been spending the past week researching carbon knives and stainless steel knives for my first purchase of a bushcraft knife. It's been really hard deciding which one to choose first (even though I know that I should ultimately get both). Your comment helped me in my decision to get a carbon steel one. So thank you very much, James.
My new knives just came in today. I just unboxed my Mora Companion in stainless steel and I'm impressed. It will shave you right out of the box. This is, I believe, the first Mora I have ever seen other than on the Internet and it is actually a little beefier than what it appeared. For the price, functionality, and name, it was well worth it. I'm stoked.
In my place we use big knife every day to cut big and hard bamboo wood i like high carbon knife..we dont like stainless steel what kind of stainless steel you are using please tell me..
Huge fan of these. Most people eventually own one. The issue is that once you have to sharpen something on a miserably cold and wet day, the simplicity and workability of the Scandi grind will win you over. That's why it's the best bush edge. Sharpening a knife in the middle of nowhere on a river rock in the cold will make you think twice about anything else.
Wash the blade then rub it down with alcohol and soak it for about 5 mins. In apple cider vinegar to give it a patina that significantly stops rust. Make sure it’s clean before soaking.
I live in the desert. I take two. Carbon for most work, and stainless for food prep and as an eating knife. At about 4 ounces, a Mora carries as well in a pack as on a belt
I have the carbon companion and it’s a great knife for the money. Sharp as hell and easy to sharpen after a weekend in the bush with my son who is a survival specialist.
If youre living in a tropical country like me youll choose stainless over carbon steel. The rain here is not rain its a damn downpour. And if its sunny the sun will bake you in 10mins.
Just a note, yes the stainless is a bit more work to sharpen and the carbon has the negative problem of imparting a metallic flavor to foods or may be rusty. Technically stainless blades do tend to be harder, not to be confused with toughness or resiliency. The various carbon steel blades may be made hard and tough or softer, so that they absorb shock and are more malleable, meaning they can be bent or hammered back to shape. Thus as most who like blades know, machetes tend to be heavy or (More traditionally) they can be lighter and bend or flex rather than break. I heard you use the word "Hard" and several people have argued which is harder, but knives can be tougher, softer, harder, brittle, and sharpness is a function of blade geometry, angles, the bevel and the users efforts (method, techniques, frequency) to keep it sharp. Good video, you're easy to follow and spoke clearly.
I enjoyed the video. I also have both. Technically, the stainless one belongs to my wife. The carbon one is mine. We have the same colours as you do. 😁 The carbon is actually thinner than the stainless by half a millimetre. Doesn't sound a lot, but looks it. The stainless blade is also finished in a much nicer way. The carbon spine is black and rolled. The stainless is chamfered and nice and shiny. Neither are good for striking a ferrocerium rod, but both can be ground at home with a file if your wish. Personally, I'd take ease of sharpening in a survival situation over edge retention. A good hard knife will eventually chip or blunt, but a softer knife can be edge straightened on a brick, back side is a plate, top of a car window, or whatever. Soft steels roll, so the edge can just be corrected back. Hard steels chip and need to be actually sharpened. The complete reverse is true if the end of the world is not nigh and you aren't running from zombies with nothing but a knife and the shirt on your back. There are some soft stainless steels which are often considered crap, such as 420. These really are quite soft, but are very resistant to corrosion (low carbon, few chromium carbides, plenty of free chromium). They sharpen easily but obviously do loose their edge quickly. I have a folder which is probably 420 (but marked), and have got it shave sharp with nothing but a kitchen steel I kid you not. But you're putting an edge back on after every use for anything but tomatoes.
Hey man thanks for the video. I live in north Georgia so I know what you mean about all the rain and moisture :) I've had the Mora Companion in carbon steel for a few years and just got one in stainless for use in coastal areas and the swamps of south Georgia. I like them both and I've found them both to be easy to sharpen.
I usually rub a candle on my mora blade to give it some protection, either beeswax or just regular candle. And you can carry a small candle stub with you to touch it up with.
That is a very good option, I cut up a lot of food, ( veggie, fruit, and meat) and I wouldnt really wanna get wax on my food so thats why I use a super small amount of mineral oil.
I have the Bahco version of the Mora Clipper that came with my Bahco Laplander folding saw and the only difference between the two is that the Companion has a slightly thicker blade than the Bahco.
I’ve used both for a while. I like to fish a lot so the stainless has really been my go to. Don’t know why people say stainless doesn’t hold an edge as long. I use it more than the carbon and I’ve found that it holds the same if not better. The carbon blades will rust over night if slightly neglected. The carbon definitely takes a keen edge though. I would still suggest the stainless over the carbon for any environment.
I would use the stainless steel one cause I do as much salt water fishing as I do fresh water, I have stainless knifes that are as sharp as my carbon blades
It is much more dense since it was made to be highly stainless. Its hard compared to 1095. it can be a pain in the butt for sure :) Thanks for watching and commenting.
I does hone pretty easy but to get to that crazy so sharp you cant feel it cut yourself. Or when you shave you only hear the hair pop, not being able to feel a tug or anything( requires alot of high grit sandpaper and stropping) it does take alot longer compared to 1095
They're so cheap, you should buy both. I have both, and like them both for different reasons. I love the look of natural patina, but love the carefree maintenance of stainless. I don't use either enough to even worry about which sharpens easier or holds a better edge. Both are very adequate.
The Bahco version has a thinner blade than the Companion. The Bahco is a nice knife to put in a kit and leave it there without any attention. As you point out, they both serve their purpose depending on the use and environmental conditions.
The big difference between the clipper and companion I have is the length of the tang inside of the handle. My clipper is much shorter. The easiest way to tell is with a strong magnet.
No, the easiest way to tell is to go online and actually look at phots of the blades outside of the handles. A magnet doesn't tell nearly as much as you think it does.
I have sanvik companion, carbon companion arriving tomorrow so I'll let ya know I kind feel like the carbon will be for me but I like to work on my knives
Many people in the comments are puzzled at the hardness review. I haven't got these but have seen a couple other reviewers who found that in this particular knives, the stainless is harder than the carbon and retains its edge better. I'm just getting into this recently and am getting the stainless because my area is humid and the amount of effort to maintain a carbon steel knife would be annoying.
Lee Barker they both will strike a foro rod but you will need to make the spine 90 degrees they both come with a rounded spine which won't strike one very well
The Mora Companion comes with rounded edges on the spine, so it won't strike a ferro rod. But it's not very hard to take a file to it and ground down some material until you have a 90 edge on the spine, which will let you strike a ferro rod.
I can't say that it has, I even left it nasty in a tackle box after cutting up bait for salt water fishing. I still think carbon with a patina is better, but that is JMHO.
Mora Carbon is much Harder! The Stainless , 12c27 is harden to 56 to 58 HRC , the Carbon C100 is a Rockwell Hardness betwin 59 - 60 HRC, and i Had testet IT!
Say Heah, Yeah, I have an older Frost Mora I bought on a closeout a while ago. Although I can complain with my Mora 2000 at all, Anytime I could get curls that will burn stricking from sparks, That's Ok by me. But I an Old Vintage Mora, a while ago I was able to find info on it, But I can't find it anymore. I found out it was a Military Knife with a Hand Guard. The Handle is Curly Birch and the Sheath is Leather with a Metal Trim. The name has a Large "A" and it has Three Crown Embossed in tge sheath. The blade is thicker too. I recently made a nice Trio out of a Mora 2000, a Mora Hatchet and a Bacho Laplander, But my Fav. is my Mora Forest Exclusive #277 a laminated blade handmade knife, It's Simply Aces. But I just pulled the trigger on the Mora Garberg, So yeah, With my Classic #1 I have a nice stable of Mora's and yrah, I think their Aces.
Those sound like great blades, Honestly a mora classic 1 will always be my favorite, I dont really suggest it a lot to newer bushcrafters since it is easy to slip and cut your finger.
I have a Weidmannshiel Small knife, Infact I bought (2) along time ago on ebay. one is a Eliptical style in carbon and one in 440c both are made in Solingen, Germany. and I forgot about them, Then I found them under in the box, That slender clip point is slender and integral so the pommel and bolster is the same steel with just stag Slabs, both are like that, But it amazed me how close that slender clip point looks like the blade style of my Mora Forest Exclusive #277. so I started to neck carry it, Their still brand new. Yeah, Their a hobby of mine, But I enjoy using them.
I’ve got the Companion stainless and the HD. I have had a lot of trouble getting my HD sharp. It came really blunt and I am now only just managing to get it “sharpish” but I had the same trouble with my Garberg Carbon and I have now got that to hair popping sharp, same also with my Gerber Strong Arm. I think if a Carbon comes blunt, I. Ow am convinced it takes a while to “ real them in” regarding sharpening. I still sware that my companion orange has the best grip ever. I really want my hd to be as good. I’m sure it will get there eventually.
You can not scratch these with nails, only corroded layer. You can with file tho, because files is harder. What you scratch on carbon is not steel itself.
What the fuck are some of these people talking about. The Sandvik Stainless steel is extremely easy to sharpen. Hell, my Mora Companion Stainless holds a better edge than both my more clipper and my Mora Pro C.
I would buy which ever one has better resale value. Once I'm done using something I sell it on Ebay and send the money right back into my brokerage account to earn 11 pct annually.
HEY BUDDY, THE CARBON STEEL IS MUCH MUCH HARDER THEN THE STAINLESS STEEL. JUST WANTED TO MAKE THAT ABUNDANTLY CLEAR... also the carbon steel will always take a sharper edge, ALWAYS YOU FUBBED THAT ONE :)
I use the carbon one. Bought the knife almost 3 years ago and use it a lot for "normal" outdoors tasks. I am living close to the East Coast of Ireland. Very wet climate over here. So far my carbon Mora is holding up very well. I can recommend Mora to anybody.
The stainless really is not very much harder than the carbon. They're within a point or so of each other on the Rockwell. But the stainless has more abrasion resistance because of its chemistry, which makes it much harder to sharpen, so it seems harder to those who aren't familiar with steel composition and chemistry..
You're confusing hardiness with abrasion resistance. 1095 steel comes in several varieties, but can be just as hard as stainless. Hardness comes from how the steel is tempered. Some think bushcraft knives should be around 55 Rockwell, others want bushcraft knives that are around 59 Rockwell. 1095 can be either, according to how it's tempered.
Abrasion resistance, which has nothing to do with hardness, comes from the composition chemistry of the steel. A stainless knife that's 59 on he Rockwell scale will seem much harder than a carbon knife that's also 59 on the Rockwell because of this abrasion resistance, but they both have the same hardness.
It doesn't matter where you live, there are a lot of rocks that will strike sparks. And you only need one. You can and should, of course, carry a ferro rod, and both knives will strike it, but get caught with only a knife, and it had better be made of carbon.
But the real advantage of 1095 carbon steel is that it has low abrasion resistance, which means that even if it's extremely hard, it's still very easy to sharpen. You can sharpen it to a razor edge on a river stone. You can't do this with stainless, well, with quality stainless, because of it's high abrasion resistance. If you ever get into a survival situation, you'll wish you had the carbon steel knife because you can keep it sharp, and even sharpen out a nicked edge. If your stainless knife gets dull or chipped in an emergency, it may be the death of you.
This said, if you actually know what you're doing, you will never be caught n the wilderness without all the tools and gear on your belt and in your pockets that you need to survive. Real tools and gear, no mini survival kits that aren't worth spit. This includes at least two knives, one on your belt, and one in your pocket. The one in your pocket should have at least two blades. You should also have a backup belt knife, and a backup pocketknife, I your pack. A pocket size, quality sharpening stone should also be part of your gear. When this is the case, you shouldn't have to worry about having a sharp knife in an emergency.
Good woodmen carry the Holy Trinity when going into the wild, and have for centuries. The Holy Trinity is a knife, a saw, and an axe of some sort, whether the axe is a well-designed tomahawk, a hatchet, a camp axe, or a full-size axe. Which axe to carry is personal choice, along with the time of year, where you live, and what you intend to do in the wilderness. Far more often than not, a tomahawk, assuming it's one made for work and not show, or a hatchet, is enough.
It is C100,not 1095.It's like Ka - bars marketing where there is no 1095 there too. These are different steels.They just put the 1095 label there because of it's popularity. Ka-Bars steel is far different than 1095 and both steels have different recipes and atributes.
C100 is the European equivalent to 1095. The 'ingredients' are very similar. C100 tends to be of slightly better quality compared to 1095 (grain structure, purity).
Thanks a lot for taking the time to write such an informative comment! I've been spending the past week researching carbon knives and stainless steel knives for my first purchase of a bushcraft knife. It's been really hard deciding which one to choose first (even though I know that I should ultimately get both). Your comment helped me in my decision to get a carbon steel one. So thank you very much, James.
@@cedric_ly see this. Maybe you would change your mind. ;-)
ruclips.net/video/QnAKCs_S8ZM/видео.html
My new knives just came in today. I just unboxed my Mora Companion in stainless steel and I'm impressed. It will shave you right out of the box. This is, I believe, the first Mora I have ever seen other than on the Internet and it is actually a little beefier than what it appeared. For the price, functionality, and name, it was well worth it. I'm stoked.
In my place we use big knife every day to cut big and hard bamboo wood i like high carbon knife..we dont like stainless steel what kind of stainless steel you are using please tell me..
@@josephlalrovapachuau5719 12c27 or something, sanvic steel,
Huge fan of these. Most people eventually own one. The issue is that once you have to sharpen something on a miserably cold and wet day, the simplicity and workability of the Scandi grind will win you over. That's why it's the best bush edge. Sharpening a knife in the middle of nowhere on a river rock in the cold will make you think twice about anything else.
Wash the blade then rub it down with alcohol and soak it for about 5 mins. In apple cider vinegar to give it a patina that significantly stops rust. Make sure it’s clean before soaking.
I live in the desert. I take two. Carbon for most work, and stainless for food prep and as an eating knife. At about 4 ounces, a Mora carries as well in a pack as on a belt
I have the carbon companion and it’s a great knife for the money. Sharp as hell and easy to sharpen after a weekend in the bush with my son who is a survival specialist.
If youre living in a tropical country like me youll choose stainless over carbon steel. The rain here is not rain its a damn downpour. And if its sunny the sun will bake you in 10mins.
Good comparison. I have both & I have no preference. I like them both the same, great little knives for the money. Thanks for the vid bro.
Just a note, yes the stainless is a bit more work to sharpen and the carbon has the negative problem of imparting a metallic flavor to foods or may be rusty. Technically stainless blades do tend to be harder, not to be confused with toughness or resiliency.
The various carbon steel blades may be made hard and tough or softer, so that they absorb shock and are more malleable, meaning they can be bent or hammered back to shape. Thus as most who like blades know, machetes tend to be heavy or (More traditionally) they can be lighter and bend or flex rather than break.
I heard you use the word "Hard" and several people have argued which is harder, but knives can be tougher, softer, harder, brittle, and sharpness is a function of blade geometry, angles, the bevel and the users efforts (method, techniques, frequency) to keep it sharp.
Good video, you're easy to follow and spoke clearly.
You can also look into forced patina to protect the carbon model
You can force this with vinegar or citric acid.
I enjoyed the video.
I also have both. Technically, the stainless one belongs to my wife. The carbon one is mine. We have the same colours as you do. 😁
The carbon is actually thinner than the stainless by half a millimetre. Doesn't sound a lot, but looks it.
The stainless blade is also finished in a much nicer way. The carbon spine is black and rolled. The stainless is chamfered and nice and shiny. Neither are good for striking a ferrocerium rod, but both can be ground at home with a file if your wish.
Personally, I'd take ease of sharpening in a survival situation over edge retention. A good hard knife will eventually chip or blunt, but a softer knife can be edge straightened on a brick, back side is a plate, top of a car window, or whatever. Soft steels roll, so the edge can just be corrected back. Hard steels chip and need to be actually sharpened.
The complete reverse is true if the end of the world is not nigh and you aren't running from zombies with nothing but a knife and the shirt on your back.
There are some soft stainless steels which are often considered crap, such as 420. These really are quite soft, but are very resistant to corrosion (low carbon, few chromium carbides, plenty of free chromium). They sharpen easily but obviously do loose their edge quickly. I have a folder which is probably 420 (but marked), and have got it shave sharp with nothing but a kitchen steel I kid you not. But you're putting an edge back on after every use for anything but tomatoes.
Hey man thanks for the video. I live in north Georgia so I know what you mean about all the rain and moisture :) I've had the Mora Companion in carbon steel for a few years and just got one in stainless for use in coastal areas and the swamps of south Georgia. I like them both and I've found them both to be easy to sharpen.
Thanks for watching. north Georgia is alot like west Carolina and Tennessee. I love both Stainless and carbon.
Western NC it rains that much? I never realized that, I guess I've always lived in the middle of the state.
I usually rub a candle on my mora blade to give it some protection, either beeswax or just regular candle. And you can carry a small candle stub with you to touch it up with.
That is a very good option, I cut up a lot of food, ( veggie, fruit, and meat) and I wouldnt really wanna get wax on my food so thats why I use a super small amount of mineral oil.
paraffin wax is actually edible is used in some Candy and cooking recipes. you can buy it in most grocery stores
TheArgos12
@@HighCountryHang Hi can you use vegetable oil for a knife's field maintenance? Is it wise to do so?
@@Misanti888 you can, but vegetable oil will get rancid, hence the use of mineral oil and is food safe.
I have the Bahco version of the Mora Clipper that came with my Bahco Laplander folding saw and the only difference between the two is that the Companion has a slightly thicker blade than the Bahco.
I’ve used both for a while. I like to fish a lot so the stainless has really been my go to. Don’t know why people say stainless doesn’t hold an edge as long. I use it more than the carbon and I’ve found that it holds the same if not better. The carbon blades will rust over night if slightly neglected. The carbon definitely takes a keen edge though. I would still suggest the stainless over the carbon for any environment.
I would use the stainless steel one cause I do as much salt water fishing as I do fresh water, I have stainless knifes that are as sharp as my carbon blades
Totally agree with you, sharpening Sandvic-Steel can be a pain in the butt :-) Cheers, Marc
It is much more dense since it was made to be highly stainless. Its hard compared to 1095. it can be a pain in the butt for sure :) Thanks for watching and commenting.
I does hone pretty easy but to get to that crazy so sharp you cant feel it cut yourself. Or when you shave you only hear the hair pop, not being able to feel a tug or anything( requires alot of high grit sandpaper and stropping) it does take alot longer compared to 1095
They're so cheap, you should buy both. I have both, and like them both for different reasons. I love the look of natural patina, but love the carefree maintenance of stainless. I don't use either enough to even worry about which sharpens easier or holds a better edge. Both are very adequate.
The Bahco version has a thinner blade than the Companion. The Bahco is a nice knife to put in a kit and leave it there without any attention.
As you point out, they both serve their purpose depending on the use and environmental conditions.
The big difference between the clipper and companion I have is the length of the tang inside of the handle. My clipper is much shorter. The easiest way to tell is with a strong magnet.
No, the easiest way to tell is to go online and actually look at phots of the blades outside of the handles. A magnet doesn't tell nearly as much as you think it does.
Ok easiest way on your actual knife.
Great job.
Very good review !
Thanks!
Hey can you do a review of the mora chisel knife next?
Yes and compare it to a lowes chisel.
I have sanvik companion, carbon companion arriving tomorrow so I'll let ya know I kind feel like the carbon will be for me but I like to work on my knives
Many people in the comments are puzzled at the hardness review. I haven't got these but have seen a couple other reviewers who found that in this particular knives, the stainless is harder than the carbon and retains its edge better. I'm just getting into this recently and am getting the stainless because my area is humid and the amount of effort to maintain a carbon steel knife would be annoying.
Have you tried using the stainless Mora with a ferro rod?
Lee Barker they both will strike a foro rod but you will need to make the spine 90 degrees they both come with a rounded spine which won't strike one very well
The Mora Companion comes with rounded edges on the spine, so it won't strike a ferro rod. But it's not very hard to take a file to it and ground down some material until you have a 90 edge on the spine, which will let you strike a ferro rod.
Thanks Man. From : Otto N . C
nice comparison buddy
has your stainless mora rusted mine did and my carbon which I patina hasn't
I can't say that it has, I even left it nasty in a tackle box after cutting up bait for salt water fishing. I still think carbon with a patina is better, but that is JMHO.
Wait, so carbon is NOT stronger than stainless?
Mora Carbon is much Harder! The Stainless , 12c27 is harden to 56 to 58 HRC , the Carbon C100 is a Rockwell Hardness betwin 59 - 60 HRC, and i Had testet IT!
Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel
I like stainless.
Say Heah, Yeah, I have an older Frost Mora I bought on a closeout a while ago. Although I can complain with my Mora 2000 at all, Anytime I could get curls that will burn stricking from sparks, That's Ok by me. But I an Old Vintage Mora, a while ago I was able to find info on it, But I can't find it anymore. I found out it was a Military Knife with a Hand Guard. The Handle is Curly Birch and the Sheath is Leather with a Metal Trim. The name has a Large "A" and it has Three Crown Embossed in tge sheath. The blade is thicker too. I recently made a nice Trio out of a Mora 2000, a Mora Hatchet and a Bacho Laplander, But my Fav. is my Mora Forest Exclusive #277 a laminated blade handmade knife, It's Simply Aces. But I just pulled the trigger on the Mora Garberg, So yeah, With my Classic #1 I have a nice stable of Mora's and yrah, I think their Aces.
Those sound like great blades, Honestly a mora classic 1 will always be my favorite, I dont really suggest it a lot to newer bushcrafters since it is easy to slip and cut your finger.
I have a Weidmannshiel Small knife, Infact I bought (2) along time ago on ebay. one is a Eliptical style in carbon and one in 440c both are made in Solingen, Germany. and I forgot about them, Then I found them under in the box, That slender clip point is slender and integral so the pommel and bolster is the same steel with just stag Slabs, both are like that, But it amazed me how close that slender clip point looks like the blade style of my Mora Forest Exclusive #277. so I started to neck carry it, Their still brand new. Yeah, Their a hobby of mine, But I enjoy using them.
paulie 4x and
The stainless steel have 57-58 Rockwell, the carbon steel 59-60
stainless is giving much thinner shavings, I switched to stainless about 3 years ago and would never go back (secondary knife)
You can get stainless sharp? Never seen anyone that could get an edge on stainless.
Dude I can get shaving sharp on a stainless takes a minute or two longer
I’ve got the Companion stainless and the HD. I have had a lot of trouble getting my HD sharp. It came really blunt and I am now only just managing to get it “sharpish” but I had the same trouble with my Garberg Carbon and I have now got that to hair popping sharp, same also with my Gerber Strong Arm. I think if a Carbon comes blunt, I. Ow am convinced it takes a while to “ real them in” regarding sharpening. I still sware that my companion orange has the best grip ever. I really want my hd to be as good. I’m sure it will get there eventually.
yaay i'm the 500th subscriber
Comment posting strickly for youtube algorithm.
Carbon is softer than stainless? Makes no sense
If you take a nail it’s much easier to scratch carbon steel than stainless. The stainless stays sharper longer during carving..
You can not scratch these with nails, only corroded layer. You can with file tho, because files is harder. What you scratch on carbon is not steel itself.
What the fuck are some of these people talking about. The Sandvik Stainless steel is extremely easy to sharpen. Hell, my Mora Companion Stainless holds a better edge than both my more clipper and my Mora Pro C.
I would buy which ever one has better resale value. Once I'm done using something I sell it on Ebay and send the money right back into my brokerage account to earn 11 pct annually.
Stainless . No brainer
HEY BUDDY, THE CARBON STEEL IS MUCH MUCH HARDER THEN THE STAINLESS STEEL. JUST WANTED TO MAKE THAT ABUNDANTLY CLEAR... also the carbon steel will always take a sharper edge, ALWAYS
YOU FUBBED THAT ONE :)
Rubbish
That is NOT a Mora!!!
it's a bahco knife not a mora clipper....
Its has the label bahco however it is made by mora.
I would say that Mora is not the only knife blade maker in Sweden ;)
Shu mora clipper and bahco 2444 are the same knives.
Yes. I own both.