Dificulty scraping stuff off the bed is usually becasue people are used to cooking their bottom layers for far too long (e.g. 30 seconds). The reason the community does this is as a way to get around a lesser known physical limitation of resin printers. They have dificulty getting the layer to stick and so increase the exposure time. In the case of this machine the "fix" is really just a bodge that relies on the fact that the overcuring blooms deeper into the resin, meaning the bloom is what's grippin gthe build plate. The correct cure is time adding a time off delay to the bottom layers (or really any layer with a large contiguous area of exposure) so that the resin has time to squeeze out, the stresses relax and the print settle to the correct position. Doing this means you can have significantly shorter exposure times on bottom layers. For example, I only have 6s exposure on 3 bottom layers. My rafts are only 0.5mm think and they just peel off the plate as you firmly push the scraper under (no hacking at them). For further reading, checkout this blog on the process and physics behind it. blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/07/step-by-step-guide-on-perfect-bed-adhesion-and-elephant-foot-removal-in-uvtools-3/
The settings used in the video were the default values in the software that came with the printer. The problem with difficulty scraping stuff off of the bed is not caused by people used to cooking their bottom layers in this case. It's the manufacturers being overly safe. Having a print that is more difficult to take off is much, much better than a failed print and the waste of resin. Especially when it comes to someone new to the hobby. The manufacturers don't want to see them suffer a string of failed prints at the start because the prints fell off the bed as that will make them want to stop printing.
Thanks for this. I just picked one up for $540 after 10% off. (12/22) Interesting in that the reason I bought it was because I saw your video "Should you buy a second 3D printer?" you released today, and only saw this video after I bought it. Also interesting is that your negatives about the firmware not connecting is actually a positive for me. Especially if it wants to network directly into the file system. I've had other things do that only to also inject malware, so a USB stick is fine for me and IDC about a camera as I already have one.
Nice, indepth video. As expected of you and your channel. So what it boils down too is that this printer is a great first step towards the completed, consumer product. Not a consumer product yet. As revered to as a rush job....
god DAMN. your videos are excellent. so informative. so clean. I just got my mighty 8k and you're making this a breeze. A question, do i need to get one of those ventilation tents for this, or do you think i could keep it as is in my bedroom safely?
Given how easy it is to set up a web interface, this way of doing it is a huge miss. For that matter, how hard would it have been to set up a simple app for the desktop to make connections super simple?
is there some kind of burn in on that display @8:45 ? you can clearly read "Print Completed" and some other stuff like File name, Layer Count, total time and so on...
SMB for remote files could be neat (if it worked) *in conjunction* with a good web interface to give users more options But when things like Fluidd exist for FDM, it really makes setups like this seem archaic
@@TeachingTech Sorry if my comment was a bit short - but just holding up two models and say "See!!! They look good" isn't what I was refering to. So - yea, there are about 3 things these printers are being used for. "Art" as you printed so many of them - and even dental work. (they use them to make ceramic castings for crowns and such) - and "Engineering" - The last one being to frustrating - and hope you would understand that part. Love your vids - you're on of the few people that have a more of an enginnering mind towards printing - so I just wanted more. Cheers!!!!
I was considering grabbing one of these since I'm not happy with my Photon Mono X. But the wifi not working is a complete deal breaker. I got the Mono X because of the size and wifi, but as it turned out, the wifi was undeveloped and seems to have been dropped completely. It's sad to see that Phrozen doing something similar with no guarantee that it'll ever really work.
Could you do a comparison with the same models on a bambu X1? Haven’t seen any real comparisons of the X1 with resin printers, let alone one like this.. curious to see how close it comes
The new 8K printers look interesting, especially the print area size. I wonder, however, if the actual print resolution is higher than 2K printers with a much smaller print area? Seems the real measure of print detail would be in the DPI rating of the printer. Is the actual detail of a 2K printer with its substantially smaller print are the same as the 8K printer with its large print area? One thing is certain, and that is resin printers have a higher resolution than FDM/filament printer.
I've been looking into precisely this question myself for a while now. I've noticed they don't usually list "DPI" but they DO list "XY resolution" which basically translates into "the smallest (in microns) feature you can print" so in this case, smaller is better. You're right though, in general they do have the same XY resolution as "lesser" (2k and 4k) models, while the build area itself gets bigger in exchange. This is intentional... however, Phrozen does specifically have a model for the people more concerned about the smallest printable feature than the maximum size. It's called the Sonic Mini 8k. It has a build area pretty similar to their other Mini models (165 x 72 x 180), which therefore improves the XY resolution considerably. It has an amazing 22 XY resolution (about 1/4 the size of a human hair), and as far as I can tell that translates to roughly 4x the quality of the Mighty and the Mega (which is freaking HUGE at 330 x 185 x 400, while still managing to keep a better-than-average XY resolution of 42 ... but it's over $2000). Hope that helps.
On the facebook group I've seen plenty of people having no issue with the WIFI, both mac and windows, but I've seen a few with your problem as well. Just a heads up, get a new USB stick, the ones that come with any of the resin printers i have are all hot garabage.
Great review and very helpful. What exactly are the dimensions for the build plate in inches? I saw an ad that posted 21x12x24 inches, not centimeters. Please confirm.
hey.. I am thinking of buying Phrozen, but I´d like to have that bigger one.. Phrozen 8k Mega, but I guess they dont sell the wash and cure kit that can handle the size that comes from this mega printer. Is there some kit that could fit the size? Or what do you think? Should I just go with the Mighty version? Thank you.
I have a skr mini E3 V3.0 and a Creality Sprite extruder pro. will you please do a video no the setup and instal of this extruder on the skr min E3 V3.0
I’d get into resin printing. But, I can’t see all that extra mess and work being worth it. Not only the price of the printer but also the resin + all the extra equipment and chemicals to post process. Time and money plays a huge factor for me. So I just can’t see spending all that time and money on something like this or even a smaller system.
@@BStott messy yes. I’m having issues with just getting passed that aspect of it. The handling of post process chemicals is what really getting to me. The chemicals are no joke. The stuff can do serious damage to yourself and others if mis-handled. You definitely need a well ventilated area or place to work this printing. Right now, this type of 3d printing is just not for me.
The only chemical you need for post processing is isopropyl alcohol, available at any drugstore. You can easily and cheaply DIY the wash and cure setup; there is no need to buy a dedicated device for that. Yes, a well ventilated area is important and you should wear a respirator, gloves, and eye protection -- that's nothing new for me given the other hobbies and projects I've done over the years. Think woodworking, etc. But if your space is not suitable that will be a problem. I only got into resin printing after moving out of a mostly-carpeted apartment and into a house where I can set things up properly.
I just wish that the prices weren't so expensive so a US Air Force Veteran who's disabled & isn't able to work & only gets a $300 per month in income. It sucks too cause I want to review and have fun with 3d printers & share on RUclips and more.
![[Limbus Company - PV] Chapter.7 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VUpkXPkvoxU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
10:05 "cheat" on the Z offset... Use slightly thicker paper to set the bed leveling. Mechanical offset instead of in software.
Dificulty scraping stuff off the bed is usually becasue people are used to cooking their bottom layers for far too long (e.g. 30 seconds). The reason the community does this is as a way to get around a lesser known physical limitation of resin printers. They have dificulty getting the layer to stick and so increase the exposure time. In the case of this machine the "fix" is really just a bodge that relies on the fact that the overcuring blooms deeper into the resin, meaning the bloom is what's grippin gthe build plate.
The correct cure is time adding a time off delay to the bottom layers (or really any layer with a large contiguous area of exposure) so that the resin has time to squeeze out, the stresses relax and the print settle to the correct position. Doing this means you can have significantly shorter exposure times on bottom layers. For example, I only have 6s exposure on 3 bottom layers. My rafts are only 0.5mm think and they just peel off the plate as you firmly push the scraper under (no hacking at them).
For further reading, checkout this blog on the process and physics behind it.
blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/07/step-by-step-guide-on-perfect-bed-adhesion-and-elephant-foot-removal-in-uvtools-3/
The settings used in the video were the default values in the software that came with the printer. The problem with difficulty scraping stuff off of the bed is not caused by people used to cooking their bottom layers in this case. It's the manufacturers being overly safe. Having a print that is more difficult to take off is much, much better than a failed print and the waste of resin. Especially when it comes to someone new to the hobby. The manufacturers don't want to see them suffer a string of failed prints at the start because the prints fell off the bed as that will make them want to stop printing.
I absolutely love the fact that I can just jump on your website and read your review policy, really appreciate the transparency!
Thanks for this. I just picked one up for $540 after 10% off. (12/22) Interesting in that the reason I bought it was because I saw your video "Should you buy a second 3D printer?" you released today, and only saw this video after I bought it. Also interesting is that your negatives about the firmware not connecting is actually a positive for me. Especially if it wants to network directly into the file system. I've had other things do that only to also inject malware, so a USB stick is fine for me and IDC about a camera as I already have one.
My guy, I've struggled to find and understand 3D printing at a basic level but this video has helped me immensely. Thank you.
Fantastic work ! At my work, we are about to buy Mighty 8k and now I see it is a good idea !
Fantastic review, Michael! Thanks! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
im getting this for my birthday!
Nice, indepth video. As expected of you and your channel.
So what it boils down too is that this printer is a great first step towards the completed, consumer product. Not a consumer product yet.
As revered to as a rush job....
jut level it with 2 sheets of paper, instead of using the offset option ;)
Might be a bit too much... but there are asorted paper "weights"
That's a good idea thank you for that idea
Offset -calibration, use more paper to get the 1 mm offset, by doing this with the calibration, after stating printer it will not be lost.
god DAMN. your videos are excellent. so informative. so clean. I just got my mighty 8k and you're making this a breeze. A question, do i need to get one of those ventilation tents for this, or do you think i could keep it as is in my bedroom safely?
Given how easy it is to set up a web interface, this way of doing it is a huge miss. For that matter, how hard would it have been to set up a simple app for the desktop to make connections super simple?
Those are phenomenal miniatures
PLEASE LET US KNOW IF OR WHEN THESE ISSUES ARE RESOLVED
To reduce the bed adhesion change the base layer cure times. some people get good results at less than 20 seconds.
This is the way.. changing z is not the correct way to fix this.
What happened with the tower tips on the German church @8:01 ?
is there some kind of burn in on that display @8:45 ? you can clearly read "Print Completed" and some other stuff like File name, Layer Count, total time and so on...
You’re wrong. Sonic Mini 8k has a higher resolution by 6 microns.
SMB for remote files could be neat (if it worked) *in conjunction* with a good web interface to give users more options
But when things like Fluidd exist for FDM, it really makes setups like this seem archaic
The models are cool and all - but exactly how accurate is it on "engineering" parts?
An example was given in the video. The helmet duct.
@@TeachingTech Sorry if my comment was a bit short - but just holding up two models and say "See!!! They look good" isn't what I was refering to. So - yea, there are about 3 things these printers are being used for. "Art" as you printed so many of them - and even dental work. (they use them to make ceramic castings for crowns and such) - and "Engineering" - The last one being to frustrating - and hope you would understand that part. Love your vids - you're on of the few people that have a more of an enginnering mind towards printing - so I just wanted more. Cheers!!!!
Hi, love the channels. Can you give us a month after update please?
Thanks!
I was considering grabbing one of these since I'm not happy with my Photon Mono X.
But the wifi not working is a complete deal breaker.
I got the Mono X because of the size and wifi, but as it turned out, the wifi was undeveloped and seems to have been dropped completely.
It's sad to see that Phrozen doing something similar with no guarantee that it'll ever really work.
🔥💕👌👍
Could you do a comparison with the same models on a bambu X1? Haven’t seen any real comparisons of the X1 with resin printers, let alone one like this.. curious to see how close it comes
The new 8K printers look interesting, especially the print area size. I wonder, however, if the actual print resolution is higher than 2K printers with a much smaller print area? Seems the real measure of print detail would be in the DPI rating of the printer. Is the actual detail of a 2K printer with its substantially smaller print are the same as the 8K printer with its large print area? One thing is certain, and that is resin printers have a higher resolution than FDM/filament printer.
I've been looking into precisely this question myself for a while now. I've noticed they don't usually list "DPI" but they DO list "XY resolution" which basically translates into "the smallest (in microns) feature you can print" so in this case, smaller is better. You're right though, in general they do have the same XY resolution as "lesser" (2k and 4k) models, while the build area itself gets bigger in exchange. This is intentional... however, Phrozen does specifically have a model for the people more concerned about the smallest printable feature than the maximum size. It's called the Sonic Mini 8k. It has a build area pretty similar to their other Mini models (165 x 72 x 180), which therefore improves the XY resolution considerably. It has an amazing 22 XY resolution (about 1/4 the size of a human hair), and as far as I can tell that translates to roughly 4x the quality of the Mighty and the Mega (which is freaking HUGE at 330 x 185 x 400, while still managing to keep a better-than-average XY resolution of 42 ... but it's over $2000). Hope that helps.
On the facebook group I've seen plenty of people having no issue with the WIFI, both mac and windows, but I've seen a few with your problem as well. Just a heads up, get a new USB stick, the ones that come with any of the resin printers i have are all hot garabage.
Can you do a comparison of the Phrozen mighty 8k vs the Uniformation gktwo?
Great review and very helpful. What exactly are the dimensions for the build plate in inches? I saw an ad that posted 21x12x24 inches, not centimeters. Please confirm.
hey.. I am thinking of buying Phrozen, but I´d like to have that bigger one.. Phrozen 8k Mega, but I guess they dont sell the wash and cure kit that can handle the size that comes from this mega printer. Is there some kit that could fit the size? Or what do you think? Should I just go with the Mighty version? Thank you.
When did you have the first failures , what do you mean by cutting models ?tnx
what is the best 8k resin printer would you say with the current black friday deals? looking to get it for miniatures and statues/figures
I have a skr mini E3 V3.0 and a Creality Sprite extruder pro. will you please do a video no the setup and instal of this extruder on the skr min E3 V3.0
That bed seems like a good candidate for Wham Bam?
Currently use my FDM printer to make cosmetic and some mechanical auto parts. Could a resin printer do the same?
Yep.
Are there still problems with the lcd panel?
Do you have to use 8k resin?
For tabletop gaming those minis look plenty usable
I’d get into resin printing. But, I can’t see all that extra mess and work being worth it. Not only the price of the printer but also the resin + all the extra equipment and chemicals to post process. Time and money plays a huge factor for me. So I just can’t see spending all that time and money on something like this or even a smaller system.
So, you say - You think it's too messy and time consuming. ???
@@BStott messy yes. I’m having issues with just getting passed that aspect of it. The handling of post process chemicals is what really getting to me. The chemicals are no joke. The stuff can do serious damage to yourself and others if mis-handled. You definitely need a well ventilated area or place to work this printing. Right now, this type of 3d printing is just not for me.
The only chemical you need for post processing is isopropyl alcohol, available at any drugstore. You can easily and cheaply DIY the wash and cure setup; there is no need to buy a dedicated device for that. Yes, a well ventilated area is important and you should wear a respirator, gloves, and eye protection -- that's nothing new for me given the other hobbies and projects I've done over the years. Think woodworking, etc. But if your space is not suitable that will be a problem. I only got into resin printing after moving out of a mostly-carpeted apartment and into a house where I can set things up properly.
Would this print most models even ones in parts?
Unlike the ones in parts he printed in the video?
The broken wi fi is a total deal breaker
Whats the point of the wifi
will you cover the input shaping feature for marlin?
when will you try input shaping of marlin?
I just wish that the prices weren't so expensive so a US Air Force Veteran who's disabled & isn't able to work & only gets a $300 per month in income. It sucks too cause I want to review and have fun with 3d printers & share on RUclips and more.
Printer Z offset. Reminder: You can input the Z-offset into your G-Code Generator for the pre-code.
Not for a resin printer...
lol
Sorry internet for being that guy. But if anyone didn't know, teaching tech has baby goats and they're adorable. You should check out his shorts
Also, he 3D prints for them as well. Super awesome!