DIY Bubble Flare Brake Line Made Easy - ISO Metric Bubble Flare
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Here is how I created a bubble flare brake line for my 1929 Ford Roadster hot rod using C4 Corvette brakes. I used an inexpensive double flare tool kit that cost about $25. With care every flare made came out with good results. It sure beats buying pre-made lines and trying to match them to your application. Go to 1929fordhotrod.com for more information on hot rods, stories, and custom car building. IF YOU LIKED THE VIDEO WHY NOT SUBSCRIBE. I WILL ALSO SUB YOU BACK. MORE GOOD CUSTOM CAR VIDEOS COMING.
I almost returned the double flaring tool I had just purchased for the job when I learned that I instead needed a bubble flare, but your video gave me the confidence to give it a try. This technique worked beautifully once I got the height of the tubing set. I found this to be quite critical, with 0.23" about optimum, for my tool and tubing anyway. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience!
thanks a lot man you saved me. I've been restoring trucks now for about 4 years. always had to do the double flare and didn't know how to make a bubble. I appreciate it and I like the song at the begining. good work.
Your DIY Bubble Flare looked as good as the "factory" one to my eyes. Nice "how to" demonstration. Thank you. As always, practice makes perfect.
I've found that adding a small piece of sandpaper in the flaring bar will aid in keeping the tubing from slipping.
You've no idea how much this video has helped me. Went to buy a really expensive tool for flaring, got to shop and it wasn't in stock, website said it was, left me really stuck, car was overdue MOT.
Saw your video so bought a Sealey AK506 which does SAE flares. I know it's not how it's supposed to be used but really helped me out.
Your information was very helpful and much appreciated! I was told by two separate auto parts stores that you couldn't create a bubble flair you had to buy the line with the bubble flair already done. So thank you very much for your help!!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video...I haven't done this since college and I needed a refresher on how to make the Bubble flare.
Thks it's just a pleasure to watch all of your videos
I needed this....I forgot how to do it...sheeeesh....Oldtimers is kickin in...lol
Superb video, Sir. Thank you. Nickle-copper line cinches in the toolbar notches easier than steel, and will never rust. Most larger tubing cutters have a deburring tool built in- those small red ones are cheap cast junk now days, get dull, and easily crack.
About to have a bash at the rear brake lines on my 2001 saxo bought everything i needed to make my own brake lines but had no idea how to use the flaring tool,after watching this and lisering to what you had to say i am ready to give it ago :) great video on how to use the kit thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for a great video. If it weren't for guys like you, guys like me wouldn't be able to get to work. Keep up the diy work.
Thanks again.
I freaked out when my small hard line fittings were unbreaklable and stripped to nothing. I did all of the tricks: Penetration oil, heat, vice grips. Making hard lines with the correct tools is MUCH easier than I thought... I used a 1/2" countersink bit to ream out the end and it worked great and kept the hole on center. Thanks for a great vid, it was a lot of help!
Notice how he is using the flat side of the clamping tool to make bubbles with a cheap tool. The hard part is not having go sideways on you. You need to leave more protruding than they say with the double flared ends.
My first attempt made tiny bubble. Lol. Thanks for video. Clamp that line tight!l
Are you using a metric or imperial size tubing? Make sure the bar is real tight. I use a wrench to tighten the wing nut.
Thanks man this is just what I needed!
I've found that "chalking" [ i.e. Coating] the brake line with sidewalk chalk where the tubing clamp grips helps you make better flares. Give it a try--just avoid getting any chalk inside the tubing!
Great tip. Thanks!!
I used your method and it worked surprisingly well!
Thank you for your video explain the correct way of doing a bubble flare. Mine came out perfect.
Nice, you did not show how high the the line should stick out, In other videos it say first bigger part of button height?
Hell yea! I was using the other side instead of the flat. Great info!
Me too oops
Same here. Went through 4 brake lines before I found this video.
How much tubing should I leave above the vise to flare? looks like about 1/4 inch.
With the bar upside down(no countersink) your making a mushroom flare, not a bubble flare. Not the same. I'm not saying they are not interchangeable. They may be. I think it depends on the type of line nut your using.
Thanks for this video. I will be using this to do a bubble flare on a master cylinder upgrade for my jeep. (I upgraded to discs with larger calipers and now need them)
Hopefully it goes as easy as your video.
Are those fittings tapered inside the end or just straight
IN THE PAST, I always just single flared a brake line & never had any problems! Now, I am seeing all this talk of double flare & bubble flare & most importantly, TO NEVER USE A SINGLE FLARE ON BRAKE LINES! NOW, I AM WONDERING HOW & IF MY FLARING TOOL WILL EVEN DO A DOUBLE FRARE OR DOUBLE FLARE? Honestly, it has been so long since I have done any brake line work that I am out of practice & go figure, I have to replace all of my rear brake assembly/both wheels & lines, & wheel cylinders, & probably a lot more! probably need shoe's & drums at least. a simple brake line failure has turned into a several hundred dollar job & when i looked up line flaring, this is all news to me!!!
Thanks 1929 Ford guy. I didn't know to raise it 3/16, and to use the unflared side.
You do nice work 1929 thanks for the guidance.
Is a bubble flare the same as a metric flare?
Question: I opened up my inline bubble flare tool & its been 2 years since I last used it. There is two 4.75 fittings, one is thinner then the other & the thicker one is black & marked 4.75B & the thinner one is made of a shiny metal & just says 4.75 which one do I use to make a iso bubble flare??? Why is there 2? What is the difference?
great video, amazing camera quality. You covered everything. Thanks
Thanks! Showed me where I went wrong!
Great video, thanks. My Sears craftsman double flaring kit doesn't work good for doing this bubble method. I had to rent a double flaring kit from my local Advance Autoparts and just use its adapter, the 3/16" adapter was concaved deeper than my Sears. I'm gonna have to look online for just the deeper adapters so I don't have to go to Advance when I need another bubble flare. Just like the in the video it's very important to keep the adapter straight.
You used a double flare kit right? Whats the height of the brake line sticking out?
Good video but I didn't see you put the fitting on before you made the flare.I know it goes on first but some others may not
If you are so stupid not to see you have to put it first on, then you better have the whole job done by someone capable.
How much of the brake line should be exposed before beginning to flare?
Great video. Clear, quality and too the point. Thank you
Apples to oranges. The video you linked shows the proper way to make a double flare whereas this video shows an improvised use of the tool to make a bubble flare.
What type of pipe cutter is that? I have the cutter for copper pipes, the adjustable one for metal, and the ratcheting PVC type. Any of those work?
Its just a basic pipe cutter from the hardware store. I'm not sure a PVC cutter would work.
Hell yeah thanks a lot helped me do my brake line on my crow vic.
I have heard it is better to do a full circle with the cutter then go back and forth to ensure the cut is straight and stays on the same groove
nice uh video! ;) will help me much with European car.
I wonder if you could use a compression fitting without the ferrules as a union to connect 2 bubble flared lines? I guess I'm asking if the taper is the same or close enough to seal?
very good video thanks a lot.
Good video also hear you have a good taste in music Lol
Well done , thanks much.Thumbs up!
I have been trying to get this right this afternoon. Then I came here, never would have guessed to turn bar upside down. Is there any way to do these things without getting tooth marks all over the tube where the clamp bites?
Also, did you just screw down the flaring tool as far as it would go?
+arthur1920 The cheaper bar clamps will do this. There is not much we can do about this other than buy a more expensive flaring kit.
it'sa Blue Point. $
Nice. But shouldn't you be playing Buddy Holly....29 hotrod?
+arthur1920 I didn't realize that. I often work in the shop playing classic rock. I guess I should have turned the stereo off!
I got a cheap Advanced Auto flare tool. adapter broke even after being very careful. 2nd time. got the dealer fabricating me some lines. I don't know what I was doing wrong. nightmare for me.
The tool I used in the video was by no means expensive. To do this requires a bit of patience and care setting it up. Sorry to hear you had problems with this.
Sorry but what was exactly the size u left to make the bubble. In my eyes u are maing a DIN Bubble flare for European lines using a DIN fitting.
+BestBuildPC Power of imagination - I was flaring 4.75mm or 3/16" tubing. DIN/ISO or “Bubble Flares” are the same for European and many North American vehicles. This was for my 1929 Ford using 1986 Corvette suspension and brake parts.
Cheers great help
Ouch on that nail.
Thanks for this vid!!!
Thanks
Ok, so this is a bubble flare with a double flare die? I have a metric double flaring kit, but I didn't think I could make a bubble flare with it.... Can I actually do this safely?
Thanks much
thank you
BRAVO!
Very clear thank you!
Good info.
What is the name of the kit?
Vincente Cat This is just a cheap bubble flare kit available at many suppliers.
I tightened it on the line as right as human possible and it still slipped right through, I can't get it to bubble over at all
Ahh, and ahhh,um,ahh good job
ive found it alot better to just buy the pre flared lines the all the flaring tools ive tried are so finicky
Try the hydraulic tool. Mastercool 71475-PRC. Really great flare tool.
Adam Czajka it is great but extremely expensive and not necessary for most people. I bought one a while back.
The ISO is metric. Just saying. Great job.
👏 👏
The button is called a die.
*tubing cutter
You'll also need a lot of time and practice. Or you could just wing it and hope that your bubble flares seal properly........again and again ect. But no worries it's not like your going to be in trouble if your flares fail.
BUY A BUBBLE FLARE TOOL!
This is not as easy as all these youtube vids make out. I have never once seen them test their flares. Spend the $40 bucks on a kit. It's a small price to pay for the time saved in redoing a line or 2 that didn't seal.
+diGritz1 - All of my joints worked well, no leaks. It's all about practice.
+1929fordhotrod
I practiced a lot too. I have also worked in tool and die/machining most of my 30 years of working life. I have repaired a lot of hydraulic equipment. Some with upwards of 40 or 50 lines running at anywhere from 5000psi to 12000psi and never had any trouble with leaks. After I stopped listening to all the advice and gave a little thought to the problem I figured it out so bad on me for not listening to my little voice screaming "THAT'S NOT RIGHT".
In all fairness I will admit yours is the best out there. But it's not the only one and information can combine and mix. Most of the the rest are either out right wrong or fail to give a proper explanation of what this fitting is and how it works.
But that's why I feel that the best choice is to buy a bubble flare tool. They can be had for $30 or $40, (found as low as $25), and that's a small price to pay for piece of mind. Or buy your lines cut your lengths and take it to a brake shop they will do it on the cheap.
I will gladly tip my hat to you for your success if you can just tell me why you succeeded. In all honesty I figured it out and yes you did do it correctly but do you know why? You kind of mention it but glass over it.
First it needs to be said, this is nothing like a flare fitting and does not seal the same way. This is a compression fitting and the seal rely on that. It needs to be clearly explained that if you over tighten the fitting while making it you will pre-crush it. Meaning it's going to leak..... a lot. And no you don't have to torque it all the way down to pre-crush it. This may seem like common sense but many have no experience with these types of fittings and will give equal weight to your video as well as any other they see.
So at the very least add text that explains that and why all the others are wrong for those out there who don't know any better or have little to no experience with this type of fitting. My only desire is to make sure anyone who tries this has ALL the information before they waste their time and money and give up.
+diGritz1 Thanks for your detailed comment. Sometimes you will find yourself stuck in a corner needing to do a simple task without the proper tool and the tool is not available. I agree using the proper tools or equipment is always the best way to go.
wrong! The side with the fitting doesn't have a flare.
Exactly. To do a bubble flare with a double flare tool, you HAVE to use the non-flared side. The factory bubble flare bends out at a 90 degree; the "correct" side (for a double flare) will get you an angled bend that won't seal.
thank you