I really appreciate your video on this topic. I’ve heard opposing instructions on how to do this though - some say wet down the stretched side of the board and clamp in compression (so the cells can’t expand when wet and then dry smaller), others say wet down the compressed side and clamp so you are over compensating. I’ve had little luck the times I tried - the wood will just spring back to its former shape over time. It would be nice for your video to have covered exactly how you do this and show the results.
Thank Glen. My success is mixed. A lot depends on the type of wood, it’s thickness and how bad it is bowed. It try to drive up the moisture content in the entire board before clamping. From a botanical perspective the cells will never totally recover and regain their shape. While I expect some success, it will never be true flat. Based on your suggestion, I will post a follow up. Be sure to subscribe so you get notified. There is a video on my channel that I used the same approach to take the bow out of a mirror back. It was 1/4” which made it easier. Check it out!
The mechanics of wood movement is fascinating. I try to envision the situation that caused the twist/warp. In this situation it was the bottom of the chest and it cupped upwards. Indicating to me the moisture came from the bottom. I applied the towel to the top (convex side) and clamped it to counter act the twist. This method is supported by Bob Flexner in one of his books, too. We will know in another week when I take the clamps off. Hit that subscribe button to see the update.
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Love those old American made Jorgensen's. I love watching real craftsmen on the RUclips vs. those self styled, "makers," who don't know jack.
Thank you for the kind words. My dad bought those jorgies for me 35 years ago and they are still going strong.
I really appreciate your video on this topic. I’ve heard opposing instructions on how to do this though - some say wet down the stretched side of the board and clamp in compression (so the cells can’t expand when wet and then dry smaller), others say wet down the compressed side and clamp so you are over compensating. I’ve had little luck the times I tried - the wood will just spring back to its former shape over time. It would be nice for your video to have covered exactly how you do this and show the results.
Thank Glen. My success is mixed. A lot depends on the type of wood, it’s thickness and how bad it is bowed. It try to drive up the moisture content in the entire board before clamping.
From a botanical perspective the cells will never totally recover and regain their shape. While I expect some success, it will never be true flat. Based on your suggestion, I will post a follow up. Be sure to subscribe so you get notified.
There is a video on my channel that I used the same approach to take the bow out of a mirror back. It was 1/4” which made it easier. Check it out!
I think you should wet the side that caved/curved in. Basically this side side has shrunk more than the other side, hence the warping.
The mechanics of wood movement is fascinating. I try to envision the situation that caused the twist/warp. In this situation it was the bottom of the chest and it cupped upwards. Indicating to me the moisture came from the bottom. I applied the towel to the top (convex side) and clamped it to counter act the twist. This method is supported by Bob Flexner in one of his books, too.
We will know in another week when I take the clamps off. Hit that subscribe button to see the update.
👍👍☺️ viele Grüße Christel
Thank you