Theres a pin that runs up the cylinder and connects to that arm, that fork pin coming from your crankcase is supposed to set in between the upper pin foot. I know it's a late reply but hopefully it helps you out.
Just pulled a bike sort I bought 3 days ago. So much carbon buildup on the actual valve was my issue. Got it out and cleaned it all up. Freed it up. It was a beast to move at first lol
it gets stuck because time is too closed, don't stick it too much to the left, give it some space or get stuck in the governor and that does not turn with your hand
I'm not sure I follow what you're saying... Since posting this video I reassembled everything as you see it and adjusted tolerances per the Honda manual and I have a lot more top end power than I had before pulling everything apart, so I think that fork was not in place before. But not 100% sure...
Not exactly.... I just misadjusted my power valve and the bike rips now. In my case, the power valve would only rotate halfway to the H mark on the indicator on the left side of the motor when revved. So what I did was adjust the power valve so at rest it is halfway open, therefore at the RPM its supposed to open it goes from halfway to full open. You lose a touch of torque but the bike is a monster up top. I tried a different governor assembly, adjusted it multiple times, and this was the best solution I came up with. Also makes it sound gnarly at idle lol
@@JustOutHereTinkering order yourself the Chilton Manual. I've actually welded that tab on the valve side twice now ( yes it's ⅛" thick, I'm a fuckin magician) but in all reality, when you drop the top end (cylinder) down, there is a specific position that the Power Valve cam needs to integrate with the rod in the top end. For the love of CR's buy a fuckin manual!
I believe it only turns when it's not disengaged w the bottom end governor system...I believe it's supposed to do exactly how u have it...u won't be able to move it with your hand or fingers because it's torsion spring at rest and I lay the governor's balls spinning really fast finally overcomes the tension that u feel like it's seized or stuck but it's just sprung at test ...if u can leave the right side cover off and then install pipe so it can run normally w pipe but u will have an open window to the linkage system in their and what you will see is that too actuator that seems stuck will start to .moved around 6-8 k RPMs and should fully open wide open throttle....then u let off the gas and the tension returns it back to the start......It only will move freely when it's off the bike and/or disengaged from the bottom end....
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Theres a pin that runs up the cylinder and connects to that arm, that fork pin coming from your crankcase is supposed to set in between the upper pin foot. I know it's a late reply but hopefully it helps you out.
Just pulled a bike sort I bought 3 days ago. So much carbon buildup on the actual valve was my issue. Got it out and cleaned it all up. Freed it up. It was a beast to move at first lol
Hey brother, by any chance do you know what the exhaust valve stopper bolt measurement? It’s missing off of my bike
yeah i agree with steavie morrow you can find the diagrams on rocky mountain atv and mc
it gets stuck because time is too closed, don't stick it too much to the left, give it some space or get stuck in the governor and that does not turn with your hand
I'm not sure I follow what you're saying...
Since posting this video I reassembled everything as you see it and adjusted tolerances per the Honda manual and I have a lot more top end power than I had before pulling everything apart, so I think that fork was not in place before. But not 100% sure...
its not ment to move becoz its conected too the govner when the cylinder is inplace.
My bike is doing the exact same thing ... did you ever get this fixed ? I’m so frustrated at this point !
Not exactly.... I just misadjusted my power valve and the bike rips now. In my case, the power valve would only rotate halfway to the H mark on the indicator on the left side of the motor when revved. So what I did was adjust the power valve so at rest it is halfway open, therefore at the RPM its supposed to open it goes from halfway to full open. You lose a touch of torque but the bike is a monster up top. I tried a different governor assembly, adjusted it multiple times, and this was the best solution I came up with.
Also makes it sound gnarly at idle lol
@@JustOutHereTinkering order yourself the Chilton Manual. I've actually welded that tab on the valve side twice now ( yes it's ⅛" thick, I'm a fuckin magician) but in all reality, when you drop the top end (cylinder) down, there is a specific position that the Power Valve cam needs to integrate with the rod in the top end. For the love of CR's buy a fuckin manual!
I believe it only turns when it's not disengaged w the bottom end governor system...I believe it's supposed to do exactly how u have it...u won't be able to move it with your hand or fingers because it's torsion spring at rest and I lay the governor's balls spinning really fast finally overcomes the tension that u feel like it's seized or stuck but it's just sprung at test ...if u can leave the right side cover off and then install pipe so it can run normally w pipe but u will have an open window to the linkage system in their and what you will see is that too actuator that seems stuck will start to .moved around 6-8 k RPMs and should fully open wide open throttle....then u let off the gas and the tension returns it back to the start......It only will move freely when it's off the bike and/or disengaged from the bottom end....
I meant it only moves freely when DISENGAGED from the bottom end governor/linkage system
Or it moves when the Allen bolt n clip are loose
Se cambio cilindro piston anillos y la valvula de alta no activa tambien es nueva
Ah man I would be useless at that!