Just a few minutes for a precise informative video that can easily be followed, instead of a 23 minute video that beats around the bush in which one could very easily lose track of how to do this process. Great job, thanks so much. 👍
Mate, just before lockdown, had a sparky fit this for me, but then we had a major refurb, and the builder took off the switch without taking a picture of the wiring!! I tried and failed and left it until now. But I couldn't find a video or website describing it ANYWHERE until now? I thank you profoundly!!! Clearly described and fixed my exact problem, and I'm an avid DIY'r but didn't wanna fork out the charge for the sparky again then feel so stupid when he fixes it in 3secs😂😂 I am subbed now for any more you have to offer. Cheers!
Thanks very much guys, exactly what I needed, took an hour mucking around elsewhere, watching over explanatory videos that didn’t help at all, sorted in this video in 5 minutes
Again …nicely explained, I always feed live, neutral and earth to all my switches then go from there. 👍🏼 doing this today but with a 4 gang switch. Will be using IDEAL for connecting the switches up. 👍🏼
really great video - I had an old double gang light switch which slightly threw me as the terminals were arranged slightly differently on the new one - your explanation reassured me I was wiring it back the right way - cheers!
out of curiosity is that 1 or1.5mm cable and what size backbox is that? Trying to get a feel for how deep a backbox i'd need for a feed in, feed out, and x2 3C+e Cables + 2 smart wifi dimmers lol
I am an absolute beginner to electrical switches etc, even though my old man is an electrical engineer. But I understood exactly what you was saying here. Makes you a good teacher I guess :)
Nice and clear video. I have a question.I have taken a live through double socket to a spur, then feed a 1.5 to the double switch. 1 cable goes to the ceiling, and the other cable goes to the outdoor light, but it's does not work. Should I take the outdoor light through the ceiling rose ? Please explain. Thanks
L2 is for 2 way switching 👇🏻 Wiring Diagram Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch - 2 Way Switching ruclips.net/video/QX1B4gtqisc/видео.html
So before when the plan was to use a 1 gang switch to control both lights, would you have joined the switching lives into a wago, then another wire from the wago into the l1 terminal?
How do you wire the feed in if there is a feed out to link to the circuit , this shows you that this is at the end of the circuit, do you join the feed out to the common also
I’m trying to wire a fan with this way where all feeds are at switch I have a switched live but not a perm for overrun would you run a cable from switch to ceiling rose connect black to switch live then take the perm love from the Downloght connection
Thanks for explaining could I ask you I have mk 2 way switch similar one but I have 2 earth wires which I am not sure where it goes into can’t figure out. Could you please help
thank you so much for explaining everything in such a simple way, I'm studying Electrical engineering and my teacher always makes things look so complicated, after a lesson I always come here to get a better explanation :D
What about a 2 gang way switch to a one gang way switch for a light at the end and top of a stairs , I have an issue in an old property where I cant control the light from both ends without breaking the circuit
Hi mate just watched your video found it very interesting I’m in the middle of lowering my ceiling to incorporate a central light fan and then have down lights around the sides which I want them both on a separate switch . Would this method in this video work if so the central connection point would I need to bring a new 3 core wire down to the switch for down lights if so would this then be connected to my first down light to run my daisy chain or would I have to mirror image the connections within the switch at the ceiling rose for example all browns in one way go clip and blues in a 2nd and all earths in 3rd and then just bridge across the switch as shown in the video just a little confused on how it connect at the ceiling end to the switch for central light fan on one switch and down lights on separate switch from one live feed if it’s possible
This is what I’ve done. Why are both my lights permanently on? I brought the live and neutral from a socket, I have never done electrical work before. Helps plz
Normally in this method it’s from another switch but it could also come from a light in either case you need to pick up a permanent line and neutral 👍🏻
Hi ,our front hall switch is different it feeds two lamps individually switched but the common goes to one common on the double switch but the other common to the other switch comes off L1 from the first switch why is this ? Thanks
Nicely explained, but I don’t like the idea of taking the feed to the switch to many wires plus the wago’s makes it cluttered, more cable drops more chances of someone putting a nail through them on drill through them when they desired to hang a picture or something on the wall and it does happen all to often. It’s also a throwback to the 20s 30s, I do get the benefits of taking the feed to the switch I just don’t like it. But who am I to argue i’am just a grumpy humble spark who’s opinion means nothing. Great video Marcos as always 👍👍👍❤️
Why is there more chance of a cable being drilled into? Dosnt matter how many cable coming down to the switch they will (should) be in the switch drop zone, anyone drilling above or anywhere near a switch or socket drop are the ones in the wrong.
@@supersparks9466 yes 👍 but we should anticipate other peoples stupidity, I known people to put picture rales up and have put nails through the switch cables and the socket cables , I have also seen one lounge wall full of framed pictures and again cable damaged by screws , it does happen , thankfully not often,
@@Dog-whisperer7494 so we should think of running only one cable just because of people's stupidity so there's less chance of damage because my cable drop is 10mm wide instead of 70mm, sorry but that is utter bollocks.
@@Dog-whisperer7494 just having a debate it , nothing personal. If someone makes a comment which I think is wrong I'll will challenge it, if they come back with valid points I'll respect that. But the zones are there for the stupid person as well as everyone else but you will never stop a totally stupid person drilling cables or pipes so all you can do is minimise the chances ie zones, has nothing to do with feeding cables at the switch ,which was you're initial argument.
I would still put brown sleeves on the two blue return wires from the light. Because if disconnected from the neutral return wire when the switch is in the on position becomes live. Even the neutral return feed wire can Become live if there was a break, fault or disconnected.
Great video. I have come across this in my mates flat. I assumed the feed was taken to the switch judging on the amount of cables. Its a double switch controlling the 2 ceiling lights so one switch for each light. It seems all the neutral cables are joined together which are 4. So there are 4 brown. 2 seem to be live which are the COM 1 in one and another in the other COM with a bridging brown lead joing the 2 COM's. 1 brown is in L1 and the other brown is in L1 on the other switch. So it seems you got 1 live coming in 1 going to the next switch and 2 going to each ceiling light. My mate wants a dimmer switch which has L obviously for the live's 2 of. Then L1 and L2 which go to each of the ceiling lights. Im sure this is correct?
Hi! Thanks for uploading this video. As a bit of a novice to electrics this is really well explained. I am trying to wire up 2 pendant lights, operating from 2 separate switches (up and downstairs) with 2 gang 2 way switches to allow them to be turned on independently. I can't seem to find anywhere online that talks through this scenario. Any pointers would be really appreciated
I see your using those cheep highly combustible dry lining boxes .I stopped using them along time ago and went over to Marshall Tufflex made with the fire retardant plastic
This is so similar to what I've got wired into a double gang light switch in my kitchen (more or less). I have 1 brown wire into feed terminal in left switch, 1 grey wire into feed terminal right, 1 brown wire on left common, 2 brown wires on right common, loop wire between both common terminals, 3 x blue and 1x black in chok block then single large earth terminating in metal back box. Only things close by are smoke alarms (1x kitchen, 1x living room adjacent, leading to 1x in hall, all with shitty conduit throughout instead of buried cables like the rest of the flats (housing association). Also a socket in living room but it's not on same wall, it's in an exterior wall close to original build TV aerial socket. Anybody shed any light on this? To clarify, only one switch (left) turns the kitchen light on. The second (right) switch seems to do nothing. For reference in replies, I'm a building services maintenance engineer with a limited but varied level of electrical knowledge (I'm mechanical bias) I have photos if required. Thanks in advance
There are situations where you may not want them joined, e.g. certain 2 way switching configurations, or switching lights on different circuits. Better to have the flexibility.
Take it from an electrician of 50 years ,there is no advantage of taking your neutrals down to the switch unless you are feeding a switch that supplies an outside light were you want a double pole switch to kill the line and neutral,otherwise you are just adding more connections to the circuit whi h I was taught as an apprentice that its good electrical practice to limit the number of connections on a circuit,and as for your excuse about your arms aching,please don't make me laugh mate,your hilarious,you should be on stage as a comedian
There is an advantage because smart switches might require your neutral to be there. The number of connections are the same he just moves them from ceiling to switch.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a few minutes for a precise informative video that can easily be followed, instead of a 23 minute video that beats around the bush in which one could very easily lose track of how to do this process. Great job, thanks so much. 👍
Mate, just before lockdown, had a sparky fit this for me, but then we had a major refurb, and the builder took off the switch without taking a picture of the wiring!! I tried and failed and left it until now. But I couldn't find a video or website describing it ANYWHERE until now? I thank you profoundly!!! Clearly described and fixed my exact problem, and I'm an avid DIY'r but didn't wanna fork out the charge for the sparky again then feel so stupid when he fixes it in 3secs😂😂
I am subbed now for any more you have to offer. Cheers!
I got in a pickle with a three-way switch today and asked my boss how to wire it. This helped make that clearer and understanding why
This is the most easiest video I have found to explain the process. Good job.
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks very much guys, exactly what I needed, took an hour mucking around elsewhere, watching over explanatory videos that didn’t help at all, sorted in this video in 5 minutes
Thanks for the great comment 👍🏻
A big thank you, I have a 2-way switch with 1 light working off it, now I can utilise the 2nd switch. Great video.
Yes this is perfect and standard connection
Perfect mate that's what we need on RUclips to education other people
Again …nicely explained, I always feed live, neutral and earth to all my switches then go from there. 👍🏼 doing this today but with a 4 gang switch. Will be using IDEAL for connecting the switches up. 👍🏼
really great video - I had an old double gang light switch which slightly threw me as the terminals were arranged slightly differently on the new one - your explanation reassured me I was wiring it back the right way - cheers!
What a great video! Explained so well and the infographics are ace and very accurate. Thanks mate.
Thanks for the support 👍🏻
Best and most straightforward explanation i have found thanks 👍👍
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
out of curiosity is that 1 or1.5mm cable and what size backbox is that? Trying to get a feel for how deep a backbox i'd need for a feed in, feed out, and x2 3C+e Cables + 2 smart wifi dimmers lol
I am an absolute beginner to electrical switches etc, even though my old man is an electrical engineer. But I understood exactly what you was saying here. Makes you a good teacher I guess :)
Lighting circuits wiring diagrams 👍🏻
ruclips.net/p/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfm4SACOSOZigCeSxxC5xaO
Thank you king I was confused what is a bridging cable u saved my life today ❤
Great video Marcus
Great video! Clear and easy to understand 👍
Thanks 👍🏻
Nice and clear video.
I have a question.I have taken a live through double socket to a spur, then feed a 1.5 to the double switch.
1 cable goes to the ceiling, and the other cable goes to the outdoor light, but it's does not work.
Should I take the outdoor light through the ceiling rose ?
Please explain.
Thanks
I understand this. Makes sense. Struggle to understand the L2. Could you advise please?
L2 is for 2 way switching 👇🏻
Wiring Diagram Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch - 2 Way Switching
ruclips.net/video/QX1B4gtqisc/видео.html
How do you test which is the perm live and which are the switching lines?
So before when the plan was to use a 1 gang switch to control both lights, would you have joined the switching lives into a wago, then another wire from the wago into the l1 terminal?
How do you wire the feed in if there is a feed out to link to the circuit , this shows you that this is at the end of the circuit, do you join the feed out to the common also
I’m trying to wire a fan with this way where all feeds are at switch I have a switched live but not a perm for overrun would you run a cable from switch to ceiling rose connect black to switch live then take the perm love from the Downloght connection
Thank you for your video. Well explained. God bless.
Thanks 👍🏻
Thanks for explaining could I ask you I have mk 2 way switch similar one but I have 2 earth wires which I am not sure where it goes into can’t figure out. Could you please help
Brilliant video thank you. Looked everywhere for this 👍
thank you so much for explaining everything in such a simple way, I'm studying Electrical engineering and my teacher always makes things look so complicated, after a lesson I always come here to get a better explanation :D
What about a 2 gang way switch to a one gang way switch for a light at the end and top of a stairs , I have an issue in an old property where I cant control the light from both ends without breaking the circuit
How do you know when to link out the feeds? When is it needed
Hi mate just watched your video found it very interesting I’m in the middle of lowering my ceiling to incorporate a central light fan and then have down lights around the sides which I want them both on a separate switch . Would this method in this video work if so the central connection point would I need to bring a new 3 core wire down to the switch for down lights if so would this then be connected to my first down light to run my daisy chain or would I have to mirror image the connections within the switch at the ceiling rose for example all browns in one way go clip and blues in a 2nd and all earths in 3rd and then just bridge across the switch as shown in the video just a little confused on how it connect at the ceiling end to the switch for central light fan on one switch and down lights on separate switch from one live feed if it’s possible
In my 2 gang switch I have a place for two bridges I am a little confused do I need to add a bridge in both the spaces
Where can I buy that switch what you have there please , I cant find one anywhere
Very well explained 👏
Thanks 👍🏻
Really helpful video thanks for doing it onsite to it is easier to understand when it’s actually on a job thanks
I have a switch wired like this. I want to add another switch for one of the lights, so I can control from either end of a room. Is that possible?
Did you find an answer?
Hi, what if you don’t have cpc with the feed in? Only live and neutral.
Not a problem as long as the switch is insulated
@@GSHElectrical thank you ☺️
Where would the other cables be connected if this wasn’t the last light in the run?? Really helpful video 👍
Concise clear and well explained 👍🏻
Why are the natural lines not needed for the switch?
How do you know what one is the live line in
This is what I’ve done. Why are both my lights permanently on? I brought the live and neutral from a socket, I have never done electrical work before. Helps plz
Where does the feed in come from in this switch? Has this been taken from another light elsewhere?
Normally in this method it’s from another switch but it could also come from a light in either case you need to pick up a permanent line and neutral 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical That's great! Many thanks for your swift reply.
Fantastic, thank you. 🍻👍👍
Hi ,our front hall switch is different it feeds two lamps individually switched but the common goes to one common on the double switch but the other common to the other switch comes off L1 from the first switch why is this ? Thanks
This may be a stupid question but do you find which is the live feed by testing with a phase tester ????
Touch it and taste the rainbow 🌈
any video for Wi fi light switchs please
Nicely explained, but I don’t like the idea of taking the feed to the switch to many wires plus the wago’s makes it cluttered, more cable drops more chances of someone putting a nail through them on drill through them when they desired to hang a picture or something on the wall and it does happen all to often. It’s also a throwback to the 20s 30s,
I do get the benefits of taking the feed to the switch I just don’t like it.
But who am I to argue i’am just a grumpy humble spark who’s opinion means nothing.
Great video Marcos as always 👍👍👍❤️
Why is there more chance of a cable being drilled into? Dosnt matter how many cable coming down to the switch they will (should) be in the switch drop zone, anyone drilling above or anywhere near a switch or socket drop are the ones in the wrong.
@@supersparks9466 yes 👍 but we should anticipate other peoples stupidity, I known people to put picture rales up and have put nails through the switch cables and the socket cables , I have also seen one lounge wall full of framed pictures and again cable damaged by screws , it does happen , thankfully not often,
@@Dog-whisperer7494 so we should think of running only one cable just because of people's stupidity so there's less chance of damage because my cable drop is 10mm wide instead of 70mm, sorry but that is utter bollocks.
If you don’t agree or like my opinion the don’t respond or reply. Simple
@@Dog-whisperer7494 just having a debate it , nothing personal. If someone makes a comment which I think is wrong I'll will challenge it, if they come back with valid points I'll respect that. But the zones are there for the stupid person as well as everyone else but you will never stop a totally stupid person drilling cables or pipes so all you can do is minimise the chances ie zones, has nothing to do with feeding cables at the switch ,which was you're initial argument.
2gang 2 way switch thanks men👍
Great video. Very informative straight to the point very clear. Keep it up :D
Thanks 👍🏻
I would still put brown sleeves on the two blue return wires from the light.
Because if disconnected from the neutral return wire when the switch is in the on position becomes live.
Even the neutral return feed wire can
Become live if there was a break, fault or disconnected.
Thanks for taking the time to watch Mark and for adding your thoughts
Great video. I have come across this in my mates flat. I assumed the feed was taken to the switch judging on the amount of cables. Its a double switch controlling the 2 ceiling lights so one switch for each light. It seems all the neutral cables are joined together which are 4. So there are 4 brown. 2 seem to be live which are the COM 1 in one and another in the other COM with a bridging brown lead joing the 2 COM's. 1 brown is in L1 and the other brown is in L1 on the other switch. So it seems you got 1 live coming in 1 going to the next switch and 2 going to each ceiling light. My mate wants a dimmer switch which has L obviously for the live's 2 of. Then L1 and L2 which go to each of the ceiling lights. Im sure this is correct?
While this video is incredibly helpful for others
It turned out one of the dimmers on a double-dimmer switch was broken :)
nice you are top of the description 😇
What if I have 2 live cables not 3 ?
Thanks you sir ❤
Amazing clear video, helped me immensely, thanks
Thanks for watching and the support 👍🏻
Hi! Thanks for uploading this video. As a bit of a novice to electrics this is really well explained. I am trying to wire up 2 pendant lights, operating from 2 separate switches (up and downstairs) with 2 gang 2 way switches to allow them to be turned on independently. I can't seem to find anywhere online that talks through this scenario. Any pointers would be really appreciated
Wiring Diagram Using a 2 Gang Switch to Control 2 Independent Lights Using the 3 Plate Wiring Method
ruclips.net/video/V48q0RHEbNE/видео.html
Too quick and not enough visibility of the cables in the switch.
Spot on thanks mate
👍🏻
The bridge can be a fault issue, I wago the feeds as you 1st suggested and only ever have one cable per terminal
Massive for your input
2 Gang Switch Used as 1 Way Switches Connections Explained - Taking the Feed to the Switch ruclips.net/video/-LGwWJeyY6Y/видео.html
uterley baffled the blue wired dont get connected ??
They’re wired at the light fixture
They are connected
I see your using those cheep highly combustible dry lining boxes .I stopped using them along time ago and went over to Marshall Tufflex made with the fire retardant plastic
Good information i like your video and subscribers channel 👉❤💓💓🌹🙏🙏🙏
👍 shared👍
New Friend's 🙏🌹🌹💓💓❤
👍
This is so similar to what I've got wired into a double gang light switch in my kitchen (more or less). I have 1 brown wire into feed terminal in left switch, 1 grey wire into feed terminal right, 1 brown wire on left common, 2 brown wires on right common, loop wire between both common terminals, 3 x blue and 1x black in chok block then single large earth terminating in metal back box. Only things close by are smoke alarms (1x kitchen, 1x living room adjacent, leading to 1x in hall, all with shitty conduit throughout instead of buried cables like the rest of the flats (housing association). Also a socket in living room but it's not on same wall, it's in an exterior wall close to original build TV aerial socket.
Anybody shed any light on this?
To clarify, only one switch (left) turns the kitchen light on. The second (right) switch seems to do nothing.
For reference in replies, I'm a building services maintenance engineer with a limited but varied level of electrical knowledge (I'm mechanical bias)
I have photos if required.
Thanks in advance
👍👍👍
There should be only one terminal for incoming L that links both switches. Poorly designed
There are situations where you may not want them joined, e.g. certain 2 way switching configurations, or switching lights on different circuits. Better to have the flexibility.
Not clear at all
Take it from an electrician of 50 years ,there is no advantage of taking your neutrals down to the switch unless you are feeding a switch that supplies an outside light were you want a double pole switch to kill the line and neutral,otherwise you are just adding more connections to the circuit whi h I was taught as an apprentice that its good electrical practice to limit the number of connections on a circuit,and as for your excuse about your arms aching,please don't make me laugh mate,your hilarious,you should be on stage as a comedian
There is an advantage because smart switches might require your neutral to be there. The number of connections are the same he just moves them from ceiling to switch.
Thank you