I Upgraded My 3D Printed SHREDDER And Now IT CAN HANDLE EVEN METAL - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 29 апр 2023
- PCBWay Your 3D & CNC One-Stop Solution: www.pcbway.com/
DOWNLOAD THE SHREDDER FOR FREE: www.thingiverse.com/thing:592...
The last time I fully 3D printed a shredder, there were challenges, mainly because I had to use plastic. It did work and smash softer materials (like food) without any problems, but harder materials it didn't handle. The whole of this video point is to change that, but did I succeed?
FILAMENT I USED: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEN...
775 DC motor: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDx...
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Silk filament are known for bad layer adhesion and are alot weaker. You should buy solid colors without effects :) PS. and when you print fast, thats makes the parts weaker also, increase the temps even more if you are printing fast.
Some pink pigments actually make PLA stronger
This is such a cool project. The craziest thing to me is that despite all the problems, the teeth in the actual shredder haven't been an issue yet. That's wild. One of my favorite youtube channels as of late, great blend of tight editing, cool projects, and humor!
My suggestion is to add a bearing a the end of the output shaft form 4-1 motor gearbox so it can stay in the same position relative to the housing of the gearbox. I would modify that housing to accept a bearing and add shaft to the output gear to mate with the bearing. I think that it would help a lot
You made stackable planetary gearbox before, why not use it? More teeth engaged - more torque until breaking. Also remelting 100% infill parts in sand will make them a lot stronger.
I would also swap gear filament for PETG, PCTG or Pa12. Those are far better material for gears.
For remelting (or tempering, or baking, or sintering or whatever you want to call it in this context), the finer your powder the better it will retain the shape and features of your printed object. This can be particularly important with gears. If you can get a big bag of "popcorn" salt that would work very well and save you a lot of effort. You'll want to reuse it as many times as you can. If you can't get that much popcorn salt, you'll want to use a mill to crush and grind down table salt or flour or starch just as small. Whatever you use you don't want ANYTHING this size getting into your eyes or your airways, so make sure you wear safety goggles (not just glasses) and a mask over BOTH your mouth and nose any time you work with this stuff.
parts are stonger with 6walls and 15% infill instead of eg. 3 walls and 70% infill. cnckitchen has a great video on this topic!
This is very impressive, I never thought 3d printed blades would be able to crush cans so well. I have loads of old prints that need pulverising so it seems printed parts can do the job. nice work!
You should build a circuit that monitors the current on the motor and reverses for a short time when it sees too high of a current. This is how large scale hydraulic shredders work. They have a pressure switch on the hydraulic lines that will reverse the motor at a certain pressure.
Nope. The operator reverses the motor when the shredder gets stuck.
@@protoborg no one is going to trust a million dollar car shredder to some operator eye balling it... maybe cite a source on that
@@protoborg maybe on some home built shredder or a really shabby one, but most hydraulic shredders have the pressure switch.
Well, i'm not sure if silk pla was a good choice for this, cause its usually much less strong than other materials, like for example PETG if you print it without cooling. Or ASA. I think that would be beneficial for your gearbox.
In addition cause you seem to focus on infill for strength, its more beneficial to use more walls instead of more infill. Also your parts are the weakest at their layer lines so if you have problems with gears breaking you could design them with little holes or inserts so you could fit in another 3d printed part in another printing direction or maybe some small metal rods an just glue them in place.
Sintering your 100% infill parts is also a good idea but mostly requires specialised equipment.
And what i forgot to mention, if you use a bigger nozzle orifice for example 0.6 or 0.8mm your parts also get a bonus in strength but thats usually just cause they have thicker walls and less failure points in comparison to a 0.4 nozzle with twice as much walls. But layer thickness influences that aswell so you can't just go to a 2mm nozzle.
nothing is as satisfying as your project working as intended or better. im getting second hand excitement
Several things come to mind here. 1) A bracket to hold down the input motor. 2) Metal teeth on the shred drums. 3) Direct input of power instead of going through two different transmissions.
This is really cool. If you added a set of 'pre-processing' shredder gears above the current ones (to squish the cans just a bit), you could probably process them without hand feeding it
I also wonder if you could shred 3d prints enough to recycle the filament
I did not expect printed parts to hold up that well. If you make another upgrade, my advice as a designer is to add more support to your drive engagement. Unless I missed something your drive gear from the gear box just hangs there. It lets it move too much. While I don’t know if you’d loose power there, it can cause you to hop gear teeth. Adding a flywheel on your grinder might also help to maintain momentum. A large/heavy object in rotation with help carry power into the grind.
And remember that a flywheel doesn't need to be solid since most of the effect comes from the velocity, and thus the weight, at the rim of the wheel. As long as your spokes can hold up the rim and (if it's hollow) whatever you fill it with (ex. Salt, sand, water), you can save quite a bit of plastic and print time by cutting material from inside the wheel during the design phase.
I thought about building a shredder for plastics at some point. I would consider looking into finding some cheap metal part which I could buy for the actual blades. The other idea was to use filament with some metal and then "metalize" the shell of the parts using galvanization. The third idea was to weaken the plastics first by heating them to a certain point before putting them into the shredder.
Unfortunately, I'm moving from one country to another and won't take the HDPE I collected with me. It can be mixed with PLA to make filament.
good video love it now i know more of what 3d printing capble .please upload more often love your video
It would be really cool if you could try adding a flywheel to the rod that holds the teeth. That way there would still be a bit of momentum in the system that could help when it would normally get stuck.
Joli projets, mais petit question, ou peut on trouvez vos fichiers d'engrenage d'entrainement?
I am a subscriber on a RUclips channel of a company that makes full size metal shredders. They often post videos under the title will it Shred. One of their videos they shredded an entire Volkswagen bug! One thing I have noticed is that under the shredder they put an output sieve that prevents anything over the size of discharge that they're looking for from getting out. Something like that might prevent things like that from going through the shredder without being totally shredded.
You definitely need to do something to improve the output. Are the cans and prints forcing the blades apart, or is there just not enough close-tolerance or torque to shear them? Would adding a cross-cut layer and maybe a second layer of vertical blades help?
Love your projects ❤
You have done a great job 😀😀
The only thing that would have really finished it off, would be if you didn't have to hold the motor box. Such an awesome effort though, super impressive! I wonder if the gear that sheared in half (which you had never seen before), was something to do with the fast printing with the bambu x1c.
The gear print which split could have failed due to printing fast on the Bambu and using silky filament. Fast prints tend not to bond as well, and the silky also doesn't bond as well. Print regular PLA and with extra high temperature (230°C) and slowly.
looks like you're learning the hard way that fast printing is weak printing. I think cnc kitchen found that out with his bambu too.
This looks very dangerous... I love it!
Good project, BUT, the problem is that its too complex, complexity ads to the amount of points of potential failures. that whole gear box could have been done away with if you got a low speed high torque engine instead. Then the axle of the engine could be directly connected to the axle of the shredder.
But my question is, can i make the shredder in PAHT-CF and will it be strong enough to shred PAHT-CF prints to the point it can be melted back into a filament?
i think compound planetary setup would have been best for a very high torque + very high reduction application like this. awesome work nonetheless
Have you thought of casting aluminum parts using 3D printed parts to make sand molds?
you should add a mount for the input gear in the main gearbox so it all stays together.
This project is always interesting to see.
Could it worth making a clutch to stop the gears from shredding themselves so often?
Also, I fucking love your accent
Hey, i saw that Crack at the 2:44 and yeah, I know that feeling when you're just about to finish the project and you accidentally overtighten one part, just be honest, no need to blur it out.
Essa trituradora é boa, mas em metal tem mais força. É preciso ter uma para triturar a quantidade de desperdício de plástico que se faz numa impressão 3D. Reciclar é o caminho!
I really appreciate the creativity of building a shredder with 3D printed parts, but there are many areas of improvements that can be done. Gears inside gearboxes should be mounted with ball bearings to reduce friction. Also the input gear has shaft constrained only on one end, which is making me uncomfortable. Still, you did a good job overall
Shredding is oddly satisfying
I'd love to see carbide tips put on the shredder teeth to really be able cut the cans into pieces!
need to glue a tab in front of that gear to the next gear box and put an axel through it so it holds the gear in place and doesn't allow it to flex and move out of the way.
What is the strongest black PLA u can recommend me?
Hahahaha the blur out at 2:47 because he cracked the plastic
Why don't you just add a bearing for the first yellow gear at its end? Like the starter motor does in combustion engines
Could this use a router for the motor?
Instead of increasing infill, increase your perimeters. As they're printed in one continuous line they're much stronger, and adding more perimeters massively increases strength at very little cost. It's even faster than higher infill in most cases. You could probably print that with 10 perimeters and 10% infill and have it be just as strong as 40% infill.
How does it do with a credit card that has an embedded chip? I had a metal bladed shredder that crapped out on such credit cards.
It doesn't even do much to the beverage can. I don't think it will handle those in its current state.
@@claws61821 - my hunch is that the chip in a credit card might mangle the plastic blades on this shredder; it mangled the metal blades on my now discarded shredder.
What angle is the herringbone hear at?
you might want to slow down your bambu lab x1 printer, speed can affect the strength of the parts.
I want to try this, but printing it is going to take me 7 billion years...
use an old car electric windshield wiper moter + gearbox to drive it. that betch will have some serious torque if you use a car battery as the base to power it.
You can do cans, but can you do failed prints?
what contnroller should i buy?
Need to shred filament from the Bambu waste chute.
really cool project but it's not shredding them so much as crushing them
Nice can crusher
Now you've gotta build a can crusher to make scraps into little cubes 😅
Next time. Can you build a hydraulic joint motor. A type of hydraulic actuator that it rotates in a different direction like a robot joint. Can you build that please?.
6:31 the poor thing tried so hard it started bleeding
Please add for lubricant oil, at gearbox.. for long life gears.
You need to somehow secure the input gear, because clearly that is the main problem.
Какой пластик ты используешь? У тебя очень плохие настройки печати. Все детали у тебя ломаются по слоям, плохо спекаются слои. Подними температуру печати.
KOOOL!!
But can we shred plastic?
Why not make a sharper tip instead of a flat surface on the part that crushed the material
There is no shredding happening here, maybe with the veggies, but not the cardboard or the cans. You need tighter tolerances on the teeth so that they shear the material.
This machine is a rotary shear. It is intended to shear the material through the cutting action of the intermeshing shear rings, similar to scissors. As with scissors, if the two edges of the blades are not in contact, or very close, it won’t work well. The shearing blades also need to be harder than the material to be sheared, otherwise the shears get cut by the item you are trying to shear.
thanks captain obvious....@@TricksterJ97
do a water blaster video
a kdybys přidělal zepředu na ty nože ocelové destičky byla by to úplně jiná liga
Great job but , don’t waste food and keep up ❤
You're drinking a lot of gin and fanta to test this machine.
Einstein did not coin the insanity quote, it's just often mis-attributed to him.
Maybe Nylon gears would be better!
Now re-design the blades so the shredded output is not as coarse
Try using a flywheel?
Lower the speed of the bambu to 1/2 you gonna see your peaces like 2x + stronger
That's not shredding anything. It's just crushing them.
Cool build but more of a crusher then a shredder.
"it was sheet"
Buy a smaller drill or just use a screwdriver.
On each failure i was like: Are those parts printed solid or with infill? I see many 3D printing channels on youtube recommending and printing with infill due to filament save, but in mechanical parts that will be stressed even with a tiny bit of force this is a REALLY BAD IDEA and i learned that the hard way. Always print solid parts unless its something meant for decoration or other shit. Also when you fired up the gearbox and i saw the gear play on the contact with the shredder i was 100% sure this would be a huge problem, anyway great job in the end man :)
He specifically states early on that they are printed with 20% infill.
@@claws61821 Yes but after each failure he was just increasing the infill instead of printing solid.
It bleeds @ 6:30
My shredder can recycle your shredder
I think your use of the straight shredder blades hurts your shredder's ability. I know real shredders use these, but i just dont think plastic can provide the strength for this. Using slicing shredders would help crumple the aluminium more i think.
3D Printinng - why buy plastic garbage at the store when you can print plastic garbage at home?
I think your high printing speed compromises the layer adhesion
repeating is insanity, no matter what you do
Oh, it is you! It is strange seeing you only write one comment lol
try electroplating/forming a thick metal layer, on top of 3d print, see how strong it is, metals: nickel/zinc/copper/titanium/chromium
@@Jkauppa oh here we go, please more comments!
The Bambulab presets are junk. They trade everything for speed. Layer adhesion and part strength are garbage, there are ballistic applications of 3d printing where this became apparent.
näppe küll sisse ei tahaks panna
Your gears were breaking due to the high print speed. Functional parts you don't really want to go more than 100mm/s... Or really 80. The nozzle passed by do quickly that it didn't soften the previous layer of filament to provide a good bond to the new layer. There are a few videos about this out on youtube.
Seams too fast
Don't know where you live dude but you should be aware that the main part of "your" design - especially the shredding part - is UNDER SPECIFIC PATENTS! You can't use THAT as you want! It's a blatant INFRINGEMENT of someone's PATENT! Be aware.
None of the cans were shredded in the shredder? Just flattened with a couple of holes..... 🥱