My advice to anyone attempting this - be sure to get a 7mm allen socket in advance. I was surprised to find that of my 8 odd sets of sockets and keys - only the cheap and nasty set had the all important 7mm. Good video - never hurts to see what I am up against before I start!!
Thank you for making these instructions clear and concise. I was interested in learning that the lug nuts were torqued I read to 100 foot pounds you say 95 foot pounds but every other Mercedes I’ve ever had it was always 80 foot pounds but these demand more torque. Thanks again - you have one of the better RUclips videos.
I believe MB calls for the caliper mounting bolts to be replaced, not re-used, and to use threadlocker in addition to torqueing to 85 ft/lb. Same both front and rear.
Hello @TRQ would I need to pump the brake pedal after finishing every wheel? Or can I replace both sides of the rear brakes, proceed to pump the brakes and then move to the front and follow same process?
Please explain why most every mechanic claims on Mercedes Benz every time you change brake pads you have to change rotors and I always argue no you dont
Not sure about the poster - but I picked up a set of 4 power stop drilled and slotted rotors, carbon pads, and sensors from Amazon for under $400. All up it took about 4 hours with hand tools and stubborn rotor removal. Believe Mercedes were in the $2k range when they quoted the wife.
Nah bro you would only have to take it off if you’re replacing the entire rotor and brake together. Since you’re just replacing the rear brake pads you will just take the wheel off, unscrew 7m Allen heads, and replace the new brakes in the caliper and then reinstall. The excess work in this video is because he is also installing new rotors.. hope that cleared it up for u
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My advice to anyone attempting this - be sure to get a 7mm allen socket in advance. I was surprised to find that of my 8 odd sets of sockets and keys - only the cheap and nasty set had the all important 7mm. Good video - never hurts to see what I am up against before I start!!
Thank you! This is a professional how-to video with high-quality easy-to-follow instructions. The torque specs match the Mercedes WIS specifications.
As usual, it takes more time to remove the wheels than replace the pads! Thanks for the torque tips.
Thank you for making these instructions clear and concise.
I was interested in learning that the lug nuts were torqued I read to 100 foot pounds you say 95 foot pounds but every other Mercedes I’ve ever had it was always 80 foot pounds but these demand more torque.
Thanks again - you have one of the better RUclips videos.
Excellent video and no nonsense explanation. Thanks for posting
Finally I see someone use a torque wrench on these. Good job sir and straight to the job too thanks a lot.
+GonzalezEzekiel Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great job. Thanks a lot. Some people always have something negative to say no matter what. I appreciate your time and effort.
Best brake job video on youtube ever. Keep up the good work! Would be nice to post brake change videos for 2018 XC90 and 2013 Audi S4/5 as well :)
Great educational video 👍👍
Really Great video...👏👍 Gone through at right pace...Just watched the video as an enthusiast to see how it's made.
No complains the guys knows his trade very good .
I believe MB calls for the caliper mounting bolts to be replaced, not re-used, and to use threadlocker in addition to torqueing to 85 ft/lb. Same both front and rear.
High quality video. Keep it up
Hello @TRQ would I need to pump the brake pedal after finishing every wheel? Or can I replace both sides of the rear brakes, proceed to pump the brakes and then move to the front and follow same process?
Thank you so much for this video
Very good video, many thanks!
Thank you very much.
Thx for Video , U are the Beat !!!
Flex+TorqueWrench 100%da best tool
Hello, how much moment are u using with moment key ?
Is that a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive on that impact drill?
Is this same for 2010 E550?
Please explain why most every mechanic claims on Mercedes Benz every time you change brake pads you have to change rotors and I always argue no you dont
What’s the cost for all 4 brakes
Not sure about the poster - but I picked up a set of 4 power stop drilled and slotted rotors, carbon pads, and sensors from Amazon for under $400. All up it took about 4 hours with hand tools and stubborn rotor removal. Believe Mercedes were in the $2k range when they quoted the wife.
Did you change the senor or kept original? and are break sensors on boths sides??
Depends. One on the bac one on the front in this case
I’m really about to do this to my Benz. Because I don’t want to pay 700 to get em fixed
Handbrake adjustment?
lets try to not spray anti-seize on the parking brake shoe if you can avoid it.
Im guessing that i cant hit the rotor like that if im planing on reusing it?
why would you take it off if you want to reuse it?
Nah bro you would only have to take it off if you’re replacing the entire rotor and brake together. Since you’re just replacing the rear brake pads you will just take the wheel off, unscrew 7m Allen heads, and replace the new brakes in the caliper and then reinstall. The excess work in this video is because he is also installing new rotors.. hope that cleared it up for u
Thank you
You didn't readjust the handbrake to suit the new discs.
You didnt spin back the rotor to fit over the new brakes. You need special tools for this.