Thanks for doing this!! The E-Class community really needs this kind of material as it’s not common for people to DIY these cars until later in their life spans.
Hey Kyle! Greetings from Finland. Awesome and helpful video. Just did the brakes on my ´12 W212 with the help of your video on our driveway. Took me 1 hour/ side following your video. Keep up the goog work! Axel
I like to put lube on the wheel hub it makes it easier. also you can use a C-clamp. You can put the old pad there and use that to push it back evenly. I always do that Seems to work great
Awesome video! Instructions down to a T. Only additional tip is a T40 bit is needed instead of 7mm HEX (for removing caliper pins) on my 2008 W211. The suggestion for a breaker bar for the rotor bolts is right now. There was no way I could have loosened it without it. If doing this job with jack stands you can only use a breaker bar up to 18". Any longer would not have enough clearance. Perfect step by step instructions. Thanks Kyle!
To keep things under control, I wouldn't remove the rotor screw until you are ready to take the rotor off, but I think Kyle is right about when to loosen it. I use three kinds of cleaning brushes to clean things up, stiff nylon for brake dust, brass for light corrosion, and stainless steel for heavy corrosion and the threads on bolts. On older Benzes, the manual prescribes using new bolts with encapsulated thread locker or blue Loctite on the caliper bolts and the rotor screw. I apply a thin coating of anti-seize on the contact surfaces of the hub and rotor so it will come apart next time. It would be great if Kyle could provide torque specs for the caliper and bracket bolts and the wheel lugs. Great video. Shows how easy this job actually is. Don't forget to reset the parking brake shoes after replacing the rear rotors.
torque values from MB service manuals for W212: caliper bracket 115 NM guide pins 25NM disc brake safety screw 10NM screw holding wear sensor socket on the right caliper 8NM
I will be buying something from FCP Euro on my next tool haul just because they have a variety of people representing their company. Because a variety of people make up this country A lot of other companies make great effort to show only one type of person to represent their company Keep the videos coming
Very well done diy video,only thing is depending on the year the caliper pins(bolts)will be a T40 torx and not a 7mm,if you have the T40's be carefull they are tight and you must stay real square and apply hard inward pressure to break loose as they will strip very easy,when you get them out throw them in the trash and buy a replacement set from NAPA like 4 bucks and they will be 7mm heads much better,
Hello Kyle, a very enlightening video - thanks. I have a 2012 E500 Coupe and I want to just replace the disks. The pads have just been replaced so there won't be an issue with just replacing the discs. Is possible to remove the complete disc brake assembly by simply undoing the two bolds that hold the assembly to the chassis? I realise I'll have to retract the pads a little to get over the wear lip. Regards from the UK.
Greetings Ali, I am from Turkey and own a 2015 Mercedes with W212 e180 274 engine. There is shaking between 1500 and 2500 rpm at constant speed and when going uphill, there is fluctuation in the rev counter, it may be the filter you changed. Spark plug replacement and many maintenance were done, but shaking and misfiring did not go away. Do you think the problem may be the fuel filter? Regards Thank you
Very helpful video. I am having a very difficult time removing the rear rotors. I recall it being said that for northern cars, they can be a challenge to remove. Any tips on how best to get them free?
Hi Bruce, oftentimes they can be very stuck on there. It would be best to grab a good size hammer and work the rotor all the way around until it pops off.
Replaced the retainer clips and have lost both of them over the past couple of months. I have bought another pair but don’t want to lose them. Any advice please?
nice video kyle =) would you recommend bleeding the brakes after changing rotors and pads? ive changed mine on all 4 corners but my brakes are still poor and they dont bite well. i have bled them twice. what would you recommend? thanks
Couldn’t get the brake caliper (Two bolts) off to remove the rotor. Now I have returned all my items & waiting for the tow truck to take it to the shop tomorrow
Hello Kyle Bascombe how are you doing I hope very well hey I want to do the service on my 2011 Mercedes Benz e350 4matic and I want to know how can I get communicate with you. Thanks
Hey Ken - if you're not planning on keeping the rotor and just throwing it out, you can hit the braking surface of the rotor for max leverage. If you're keeping the rotors, you can hit the front of the hat of the rotor (not the braking surface) in a circular motion to try to loosen it!
Hi Tucker, it depends on the vehicle. Our brake kits include the needed sensors depending on the model you are searching for. In this case the rear uses on brake pad wear sensor.
We warned him when we shot this "this is not up to you personal brand standards of dapperness Kyle!" The next day we shot a w212 buyers guide and he dressed appropriately!
Thanks for doing this!! The E-Class community really needs this kind of material as it’s not common for people to DIY these cars until later in their life spans.
I'm DIY-ing my 2012 E500 later in its lifetime and later in my lifetime - I'm 79😊
Very happy this guy gets straight to it. Clear and easy to understand language.
Hey Kyle! Greetings from Finland. Awesome and helpful video. Just did the brakes on my ´12 W212 with the help of your video on our driveway. Took me 1 hour/ side following your video. Keep up the goog work! Axel
A standard C clamp works great to push the piston back into the caliper as well.
I like to put lube on the wheel hub it makes it easier. also you can use a C-clamp. You can put the old pad there and use that to push it back evenly. I always do that Seems to work great
this is the best video for DIY people. I love your channel and other videos too
Awesome video! Instructions down to a T. Only additional tip is a T40 bit is needed instead of 7mm HEX (for removing caliper pins) on my 2008 W211. The suggestion for a breaker bar for the rotor bolts is right now. There was no way I could have loosened it without it. If doing this job with jack stands you can only use a breaker bar up to 18". Any longer would not have enough clearance. Perfect step by step instructions. Thanks Kyle!
Don't forget to control liquid level in brake fluid tank under the hood while retracting pistons to calipers. It can overflow and damage paint.
Very true especially when people wait too long to replace brakes 🤦♂️
Excellent video. Your walk through is very thorough and professional. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Kyle as always I really enjoy your content. Have a wonderful weekend thanks for sharing!
Thanks Terry, hope you have yourself a nice weekend!
To keep things under control, I wouldn't remove the rotor screw until you are ready to take the rotor off, but I think Kyle is right about when to loosen it. I use three kinds of cleaning brushes to clean things up, stiff nylon for brake dust, brass for light corrosion, and stainless steel for heavy corrosion and the threads on bolts. On older Benzes, the manual prescribes using new bolts with encapsulated thread locker or blue Loctite on the caliper bolts and the rotor screw. I apply a thin coating of anti-seize on the contact surfaces of the hub and rotor so it will come apart next time. It would be great if Kyle could provide torque specs for the caliper and bracket bolts and the wheel lugs. Great video. Shows how easy this job actually is. Don't forget to reset the parking brake shoes after replacing the rear rotors.
For 2003 - 2006 E320s and E500s with SIS brakes, remove the fuse for the brakes before working on them.
torque values from MB service manuals for W212:
caliper bracket 115 NM
guide pins 25NM
disc brake safety screw 10NM
screw holding wear sensor socket on the right caliper 8NM
I will be buying something from FCP Euro on my next tool haul just because they have a variety of people representing their company.
Because a variety of people make up this country
A lot of other companies make great effort to show only one type of person to represent their company
Keep the videos coming
Great video. Glad to see there is nothing needed re retracting the e-brake.
Very well done diy video,only thing is depending on the year the caliper pins(bolts)will be a T40 torx and not a 7mm,if you have the T40's be carefull they are tight and you must stay real square and apply hard inward pressure to break loose as they will strip very easy,when you get them out throw them in the trash and buy a replacement set from NAPA like 4 bucks and they will be 7mm heads much better,
Nice video..Though its' not the first brake job video available in youtube, it's great..Walked through very thoroughly..
The best instructional video. Thanks Kyle!
Very helpful, you made it look simple
Great video.
-How do you clean the guide pins and guide pin seats?
-In general, any ideas on how to torque in tight spaces?
Tx.
Easy to follow good stuff
Seht ausführlich, cooler man
Great video! These videos are very informative. I like that you show what kind of tool to use on the bolts. Thanks.
Thanks for watching Julian Ceballos!
Happy to help Julian, having the right tools makes (most) jobs a lot easier. We learned that the hard way so that you all don't have to 😂
Hello Kyle, a very enlightening video - thanks. I have a 2012 E500 Coupe and I want to just replace the disks. The pads have just been replaced so there won't be an issue with just replacing the discs. Is possible to remove the complete disc brake assembly by simply undoing the two bolds that hold the assembly to the chassis? I realise I'll have to retract the pads a little to get over the wear lip. Regards from the UK.
THE BEST VIDEO FOR 2021
Thanks so much Alex!
Your tutorials are awesome!
Glad you like them!
I See these Brake Pads Sold With Only One Wear Sensor, So The Wear Sensor Only Go On One Side?? 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Greetings Ali, I am from Turkey and own a 2015 Mercedes with W212 e180 274 engine. There is shaking between 1500 and 2500 rpm at constant speed and when going uphill, there is fluctuation in the rev counter, it may be the filter you changed. Spark plug replacement and many maintenance were done, but shaking and misfiring did not go away. Do you think the problem may be the fuel filter? Regards Thank you
Very helpful video. I am having a very difficult time removing the rear rotors. I recall it being said that for northern cars, they can be a challenge to remove. Any tips on how best to get them free?
Hi Bruce, oftentimes they can be very stuck on there. It would be best to grab a good size hammer and work the rotor all the way around until it pops off.
This was very helpful!!!!! Thank you👍
Great video thanks. Does one have to replace the sensor? Or can keep using the old one?
If your warning brake light is on the dash it will need to be replaced. If you are changing the pads that are still have life left in them then no.
Does anyone know if the car needs be in Neutral or can it just be on Park without the E-Brake on?
would like to see a tutorial on the front brakes/rotors as well, or is it basically the same process?
We can certainly add that to the queue, however, the idea is the same!
@@fcpeuro any updates on the status of the front rotor/pad replacement tutorial? Please & thanks!
You don't lube the caliper pins before you reinstall them?
Replaced the retainer clips and have lost both of them over the past couple of months. I have bought another pair but don’t want to lose them. Any advice please?
Thank you sir. Very good video!!
Great Video! Thank You!
Great video thanks
Great video
SUPER! Video.German Style.Th.Henry.
Great vid
Thx
You dont show torquing the caliper bolts or anything else. How could you possibly get a torque wrench to the top one?
haha the Chinese gong at 10:16
nice video kyle =) would you recommend bleeding the brakes after changing rotors and pads?
ive changed mine on all 4 corners but my brakes are still poor and they dont bite well. i have bled them twice.
what would you recommend?
thanks
After - I also suggest speed bleeders...(no, I am not Kyle). Speed bleeders make any car much easier to bleed the brakes.
Why do you have to change rotors at the same time you change brake pads?
Couldn’t get the brake caliper (Two bolts) off to remove the rotor. Now I have returned all my items & waiting for the tow truck to take it to the shop tomorrow
Sorry to hear that! They can be tough to get out sometimes.
Hello Kyle Bascombe how are you doing I hope very well hey I want to do the service on my 2011 Mercedes Benz e350 4matic and I want to know how can I get communicate with you. Thanks
Thanks for great video!
when the disc roater stuck with a hub, where is the good points to hit? and how hard would it be?
Hey Ken - if you're not planning on keeping the rotor and just throwing it out, you can hit the braking surface of the rotor for max leverage. If you're keeping the rotors, you can hit the front of the hat of the rotor (not the braking surface) in a circular motion to try to loosen it!
@@fcpeuro Great advice, thanks heaps. please upload more videos for Mecerdes DIY! bluetec tips is highly appreciated!
Do you need to trok the brake assembly bolts?.
what’s the thickness of the rear rotor?
Would these torque specs be the same for a 2014 CLS500 ?
do a vid installing E63 brakes on a normal E class w212 pls
If we get the opportunity to film this piece, we definitely will make sure you all can see how to get it done!
@@fcpeuro that would be awesome!
Good job 👍
👍is it a good idea to put anti seize on the pins?
Good idea.
I have a 2006 e350 its still the same right?
Is there a sensor on both sides or is it just on one side of the car
Hi Tucker, it depends on the vehicle. Our brake kits include the needed sensors depending on the model you are searching for. In this case the rear uses on brake pad wear sensor.
Its normally on one side.
If I'm only doing rear break pads do I need to bleed the breaks?
Hi Rose, unless you are opening up the hydraulic system, there is no need to bleed the system.
What size socket does it take to take the caliper off
Hi Taylor, to remove the caliper you need a 7mm hex bit. To remove the caliper carrier you will need an 18mm socket/wrench!
I like this model.
So do we! It's a very usable and reliable car - we'll have more content coming to help you keep yours on the road as well.
I thought Kyle works on cars in a tuxedo!
We warned him when we shot this "this is not up to you personal brand standards of dapperness Kyle!" The next day we shot a w212 buyers guide and he dressed appropriately!
Thanks!
Is this car expensive to maintain?
Hey Auto Trimmers, that will depend on the trim level you buy.
What about front brakes
Slather those bolts and hub with Anti-seize if that bad boy drives in the snow.
Never a bad call Pablo!
👍
You forgot to put brake grease on the pins.
Yes, the age-old argument of grease vs no grease! It's totally up to the DIYer, as most manufacturers don't call for it from a service standpoint.