Thanks for the folwow up! I'm glad you made some changes that really helped your bike. Yes, you need to wind off quite a bit of preload from the rear shock as it is set up for 2 riders and bags as they figure that's the predominant use of the bike via the category of sports touring.
This was very helpful and confirmed my ideas about my SV1000s. Currently it has 110 000kms on it and running like a dream, has an 2004 gsxr shock which is slightly longer 5-7mm from memory. Rider Sag 40mm both ends, preload second circle out, adjusters all 3/4 turn out from seated, I believe it has a standard front end. I ride on very poor country roads with not enough twisties so usually sweeping bends long straights and MX style "speed bumps'. I thinking of a 1.0kg straight rate spring with 5 wt. for spirited road rides and 1 track day a year [still a virgin] and possibly getting a second gsxr shock I have resprung/valved etc. I will mention that on these roads I ride through the rough by trying to make the front light and power through but also when just letting the bike settle in fast bumpy corners it takes them on with surprising agility and composure. Thanks again and to all the posters below as.
@Maverick6017 Thanks for the kind words! Go with 15w fork oil and .95kg springs. Change the shock oil to heavy oil if it hasn't been recently serviced. I would be checking the valve clearances every 5k with that mileage and every 15k do a compression check. Spark plugs every 8k. Dave Moss Host
Hoke - at your weight you need to run 10kg shock spring and 1.1kg fork springs to get the bike to sit correctly. Running a 190/60 rear tire is also helpful. We put springs and 15w oil in Eric's forks an the 10kg shock spring on it.
Hello sir, I'm very interested about geometry of motorcycle, So I would like know set up my suspension and better understand things about not too long rear shock or too short..... Do you can recommend some Holly Bible abot things like that? 😁 Thank you
Dave thanks for all ur help and knowledge that u have spread ti us all. I am using 10w oil for now until springs come in and have converted to an '08 kawi rear shock. It is a lil' stiff but after taking proper amount out of spring all us well. Having a bike with high mileage is work but better to get into the habit of it all early on then later. Helps me not to be lazy and pay more attention to the feel of the bike which I don't mind. Thanks again and ylism I hope I have answered ur question.
@ylism The SV1000 would be better. Upgrades would include fork respring and revalve and rear shock heavy shock oil plus a respring. The torque of the bigger engine is much better for the street and twisties, making it much easier to ride. Dave Moss Host
@ylism yes sir u have put 48k on the bike with some track days as well. I see that Dave gas respond and I concur with his suggestion. I change my fork oil every 12k (with normal riding) however, during summer/fall every other track day. With the mileage on my bike I check the valves every 8k. Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the greate videos Dave! Q: I own a stock SV1000S 2006 that I mostly use on small an big race-racks. My weight is 220-240 without the gear. I would love to get it to be a little more happy in the corners -coming from a CBR600.. Do you have any more tip/cheap way to make it handle better on the tracks? Front spring, oil, sag etc? What have been done to Erics bike? ;-) Kind regards Hoke
Hello dave a big fan love your videos, I just achieved 60,000 miles on my '03 SV1000S. I also acquired a rear shock that is bleeding so i am changing it out for a '08 ZX10 shock. The N and S have different suspension. What should I do for the front? I am 6'1" and 180lbs (193lbs with gear). Thanks
David, if I use different linkage plates to lift the rear tail, would it create the same effect as by putting a longer shock and if yes, how much raise would I opt for (there are options for 20 up to 50mm by steps of 5mm). Thanks for the great info!
Thanks for the kind words. Depends on the position of the rear axle. Short wheel base +5mm and all the way at the back +10mm. That would be between washers that fit between the shock or the frame or a combination of +5mm shock ride height extension plus spacers.
I had a 2005 SV1000SK5, I brought new, $14,000AUD, sold it years ago, great engine, crap forks, torsional flex in frame, rear suspension fair at best, even at the time Suzuki had better they should have used, to build to price¡!
Dave you recommend a linear spring, I guess this is for on track? Would a progressive spring rate better for real world road riding, pot holes and all?
Thanks for the folwow up! I'm glad you made some changes that really helped your bike. Yes, you need to wind off quite a bit of preload from the rear shock as it is set up for 2 riders and bags as they figure that's the predominant use of the bike via the category of sports touring.
This was very helpful and confirmed my ideas about my SV1000s. Currently it has 110 000kms on it and running like a dream, has an 2004 gsxr shock which is slightly longer 5-7mm from memory. Rider Sag 40mm both ends, preload second circle out, adjusters all 3/4 turn out from seated, I believe it has a standard front end. I ride on very poor country roads with not enough twisties so usually sweeping bends long straights and MX style "speed bumps'.
I thinking of a 1.0kg straight rate spring with 5 wt. for spirited road rides and 1 track day a year [still a virgin] and possibly getting a second gsxr shock I have resprung/valved etc.
I will mention that on these roads I ride through the rough by trying to make the front light and power through but also when just letting the bike settle in fast bumpy corners it takes them on with surprising agility and composure. Thanks again and to all the posters below as.
@Maverick6017 Thanks for the kind words! Go with 15w fork oil and .95kg springs. Change the shock oil to heavy oil if it hasn't been recently serviced. I would be checking the valve clearances every 5k with that mileage and every 15k do a compression check. Spark plugs every 8k.
Dave Moss
Host
Hoke - at your weight you need to run 10kg shock spring and 1.1kg fork springs to get the bike to sit correctly. Running a 190/60 rear tire is also helpful. We put springs and 15w oil in Eric's forks an the 10kg shock spring on it.
Hello sir,
I'm very interested about geometry of motorcycle,
So I would like know set up my suspension and better understand things about not too long rear shock or too short.....
Do you can recommend some Holly Bible abot things like that? 😁
Thank you
Dave thanks for all ur help and knowledge that u have spread ti us all. I am using 10w oil for now until springs come in and have converted to an '08 kawi rear shock. It is a lil' stiff but after taking proper amount out of spring all us well. Having a bike with high mileage is work but better to get into the habit of it all early on then later. Helps me not to be lazy and pay more attention to the feel of the bike which I don't mind. Thanks again and ylism I hope I have answered ur question.
@ylism The SV1000 would be better. Upgrades would include fork respring and revalve and rear shock heavy shock oil plus a respring. The torque of the bigger engine is much better for the street and twisties, making it much easier to ride.
Dave Moss
Host
@ylism yes sir u have put 48k on the bike with some track days as well. I see that Dave gas respond and I concur with his suggestion. I change my fork oil every 12k (with normal riding) however, during summer/fall every other track day. With the mileage on my bike I check the valves every 8k. Hope this helps.
Thanks for all the greate videos Dave!
Q: I own a stock SV1000S 2006 that I mostly use on small an big race-racks. My weight is 220-240 without the gear.
I would love to get it to be a little more happy in the corners -coming from a CBR600..
Do you have any more tip/cheap way to make it handle better on the tracks? Front spring, oil, sag etc? What have been done to Erics bike? ;-)
Kind regards
Hoke
Hello dave a big fan love your videos,
I just achieved 60,000 miles on my '03 SV1000S. I also acquired a rear shock that is bleeding so i am changing it out for a '08 ZX10 shock. The N and S have different suspension. What should I do for the front? I am 6'1" and 180lbs (193lbs with gear). Thanks
Thanks heaps for a great vid 🤙
Thank you!
David, if I use different linkage plates to lift the rear tail, would it create the same effect as by putting a longer shock and if yes, how much raise would I opt for (there are options for 20 up to 50mm by steps of 5mm).
Thanks for the great info!
Thanks for the kind words. Depends on the position of the rear axle. Short wheel base +5mm and all the way at the back +10mm. That would be between washers that fit between the shock or the frame or a combination of +5mm shock ride height extension plus spacers.
Can the fork internals be improved ? eg cartridge emulators
Yes - oil viscosity and volume, preload spacer and spring rate, emulators and damping rod revisions re number of holes and hole sizes.
How about a ZX7R rear shock on a SV1000N K7?
Thanks! :-)
I had a 2005 SV1000SK5, I brought new, $14,000AUD, sold it years ago, great engine, crap forks, torsional flex in frame, rear suspension fair at best, even at the time Suzuki had better they should have used, to build to price¡!
Buy an sv650
Okay, that's complete horse shit, if anything the SV1k is crashy, certainly not sort.
Dave you recommend a linear spring, I guess this is for on track?
Would a progressive spring rate better for real world road riding, pot holes and all?
100% correct for progressive on street.