One thing to always mention when magnetizing is to make sure your polarity is standardized so that you can swap weapons among several different models. I've magnetized my entire tau army including crisis suits with all 4 weapon options, and tanks with even two hard points for seeker missiles.
Its best not to rely on magnet size and or stacking for magnetic strength. Weak magnets are weak... ALWAYS make sure you are using the strongest magnets possible. This will be N52 grade. If the pack you order does not list them as N52, then they are the weaker N40 or N41 grades. Using N52 will save you a ton of frustrations down the road, and for only a few cents more per magnet. It really is worth the cost.
I've never magnetized a russ, but I've done 2 sentinels. Put a magnet on its feet to detach from the base, weapon mount,and top half of the cockpit. The pilot is removable and I can open the cockpit to make it a scout sentinel. The only thing that is swappable/detachable on my russ' is the hull gun, just pushed and pulled in, and the pintle mount rests comfortably on the swivel pegs
As I started this Hobby I fell in love with the Leman Russ Battle Tank, bought 4 within half a year, magnetised none of them and even glued the sponson weapons. Its so stupid to glue those.
The first thing I magnetized was a terminator lord/sorcerer. It was very time consuming, but 100% worth it. I even did this to his feet, so that he could switch between a 60mm scenic base or a 40mm gaming base.
My raider and rhinos are all magnetized. It allows me to choose what use each game. Also, someone who paints a vehicle white, should not worried about taking extra time to make a model. A very clean paint job. ( White paint jobs, in my opinion, tend to take longer than normal ones)
i appreciate you talking about tips for modeling as you excel at your core topic of points and performance. Once you mentioned why one start kit would be cheaper that anther, i.e. one was mono pose. I would like to hear your discussion on the different levels of model quality/sophistication
If your magnets are strong enough, you can get away with using a simple sheet of metal on the other side. It might safe you some driling and it gets rid of any polarisation concerns.
For a less fiddly method on the sonsoons and hull mounted weapon. Drill a smaller hole from the back of the cylinder bit with the weapon mounted in. Then drill, not all the way thru, with the magnet sized bit. The holes will line up, you don't have to carefully lower the magnet into the bottom of the mounting and you won't pull the magnet out if the glue gives.
For sponson or front weapons the will hold very well is you just put a little primer insider, the extra paint will make it so snug you'll struggle to get them out. might rub off over time, but with a thin layer of varnish that doesn't seem to be an issue.
Adeptus Titanicus models actually do have very magnet-friendly designs and even premade holes to put your magnets in. I do wish they would utilize that design philosophy more in 40k.
As someone who's thinking about magnetising some characters and vehicles, does anyone have a good size guide for different types of model? My eventual goal is to magnetise an archaecopter (to get all 3 types), some marines (devastator and Aggressor squads), and (whisper it) a Thunderhawk (putting some elevators on the tailfin, as V2.0 of the T-hawk had).
Any suggestions on magnetizing tank commanders? I can never find a tutorial on how to do that and it’s currently what’s stopping me from putting my russes together.
If i remember correctly the command hatch legs socket in the cupola from underneath, then you glue the assembly to the turret. If that is the case i would shave the round bit on the legs so it can be inserted from the top, build a bracket ( like on the sponsoons) in the turret for the magnets. Glue the cupola to the turret but not the hatch. Add a magnet to the underside of the hatch and the underside of your commander. You will have to be creative with the pintle mounted weapon's placement though. Or get your hands on extra cupolas and have them as larger swappable assemblies.
Sometimes you need to just decide to not sweat it. You could always just run the Russ as a commander or a normal one with the guy on top or without the guy on top. Unless you really care I don’t see why it would matter. That’s a normal tank but there is still gonna be a fancy man with a big hat in there in charge, is there any rules that say he can’t look out the top hatch unless he’s an actual tank commander? That might be a tank commander but the commander doesn’t want to stick his head out the hatch because there’s snipers in the area. So I really feel like that specific modeling choice is really just cosmetic
True, about the necessity of the commander sticking out. You might just make a fancy flag with the antenna mount and magnetize that for a simpler system
I’m gonna experiment on magnetizing the actual commander. If that doesn’t work then I’ll try the flag method. I really want my tank commanders to have a visual difference so that I don’t forget that they are commanders. I don’t have the best memory 😅
Maybe it's overkill, but I used the extra time in lockdown to make a working hinge for the hatch with a paper clip, & making a "seat" out of a bit of sprue, which he covers up
buy the exact size drill bit by measuring the magnet. Drill bits are very sharp so what I do is tape up (a lot of tape) the end and it becomes easier to grip and then twist and make a hole. To make it easier use your hobby knife and gently spin in the area you are going to make a hole to make a divot. Then use a smaller drill but and twist the depth of your magnet. Then use the exact size and hand twist drill away.
“And be thoroughly underwhelmed” such gold humour
Me: *looks at my vanquisher tank commander* One day, my underwhelming friend :(
Why the hate on the Vanquisher ?
Spit my drink out when he said it. So damn true
Still fire in tenth edition
I have always been in love with white with orange details. I’m so happy to see an army painted to the scheme. Wish white was easier to paint
If most of the model is white it's definitely worth priming with a white primer
Airbrushing it dude makes it very easy
GW's accountant: wait this is tech heresy!
One thing to always mention when magnetizing is to make sure your polarity is standardized so that you can swap weapons among several different models. I've magnetized my entire tau army including crisis suits with all 4 weapon options, and tanks with even two hard points for seeker missiles.
Great vid many thanks in these difficult times, just one comment if you are new to magnets, make sure you get the poles the right way round.
Or hold your battlecannon against the barrel stub and let it go to fly into the opponents models.
Its best not to rely on magnet size and or stacking for magnetic strength. Weak magnets are weak... ALWAYS make sure you are using the strongest magnets possible. This will be N52 grade. If the pack you order does not list them as N52, then they are the weaker N40 or N41 grades. Using N52 will save you a ton of frustrations down the road, and for only a few cents more per magnet. It really is worth the cost.
I've never magnetized a russ, but I've done 2 sentinels. Put a magnet on its feet to detach from the base, weapon mount,and top half of the cockpit. The pilot is removable and I can open the cockpit to make it a scout sentinel.
The only thing that is swappable/detachable on my russ' is the hull gun, just pushed and pulled in, and the pintle mount rests comfortably on the swivel pegs
As I started this Hobby I fell in love with the Leman Russ Battle Tank, bought 4 within half a year, magnetised none of them and even glued the sponson weapons. Its so stupid to glue those.
Actually this was the best video on specifically magnetising the Lemun Russ on RUclips.
Thanks!
The first thing I magnetized was a terminator lord/sorcerer. It was very time consuming, but 100% worth it. I even did this to his feet, so that he could switch between a 60mm scenic base or a 40mm gaming base.
I like how the sponsons on lemon russes are just a plug and play affair. Good job on your magnetising 👍
"Not something I'd recommend for new players"...
Me over here having the second model I ever built be a magnetized Imperial Knight...
My raider and rhinos are all magnetized. It allows me to choose what use each game. Also, someone who paints a vehicle white, should not worried about taking extra time to make a model. A very clean paint job.
( White paint jobs, in my opinion, tend to take longer than normal ones)
i appreciate you talking about tips for modeling as you excel at your core topic of points and performance. Once you mentioned why one start kit would be cheaper that anther, i.e. one was mono pose. I would like to hear your discussion on the different levels of model quality/sophistication
If your magnets are strong enough, you can get away with using a simple sheet of metal on the other side. It might safe you some driling and it gets rid of any polarisation concerns.
For a less fiddly method on the sonsoons and hull mounted weapon. Drill a smaller hole from the back of the cylinder bit with the weapon mounted in. Then drill, not all the way thru, with the magnet sized bit. The holes will line up, you don't have to carefully lower the magnet into the bottom of the mounting and you won't pull the magnet out if the glue gives.
I didn't magnetize the hull and sponson weapons myself, the friction of primed bits in the socket holds them in well enough.
I did the same exact thing.
I was literally about to watch a video about a magnetized model. Perfect timing
I was looking up magnetizing leman russes yesterday. Blasted psykers.
1:46 laughed out loud at this. great delivery
May the sprue be with you
I found that, for the HB options, you can just over load the part that you cant see with paint, and it will fit better.
For sponson or front weapons the will hold very well is you just put a little primer insider, the extra paint will make it so snug you'll struggle to get them out. might rub off over time, but with a thin layer of varnish that doesn't seem to be an issue.
Wow I was just thinking of how to do this with my Russ! This will be very helpful.
I tried GW plastic glue several years ago and was plagued with my armies falling apart as a I played with them for months. Loctite ftw!
Tamiya plastic glue is good. Super glue isn’t as good as plastic glue for plastic models... besides for the magnets.
That looks really good. Like they're supposed to be like that.
Excellent video would love a tutorial on how you paint your white
About the glue, I find gw plastic glue to be pretty good but their super glue is shite.
Love your vids
God that color scheme pops
Ooooh. This will be useful for my own tonks! :D
Magnetizing is pretty fun to me.
Would love to see a painting demo for the white army
Not sure why they don't design the kits with magnetization in mind?
To sell more kits?
Adeptus Titanicus models actually do have very magnet-friendly designs and even premade holes to put your magnets in. I do wish they would utilize that design philosophy more in 40k.
They do in resin kits. It’s not hard to drill holes for magnets tho
Perfect sollution? 3D printing!
As someone who's thinking about magnetising some characters and vehicles, does anyone have a good size guide for different types of model? My eventual goal is to magnetise an archaecopter (to get all 3 types), some marines (devastator and Aggressor squads), and (whisper it) a Thunderhawk (putting some elevators on the tailfin, as V2.0 of the T-hawk had).
2+ tough has a video about magnatizing and there is a size guide linked in the description!
@@sushimandaddi Amazing! Thanks for that, I'll give it a look.
For a moment I thought it will be magnets tactics.
Any suggestions on magnetizing tank commanders? I can never find a tutorial on how to do that and it’s currently what’s stopping me from putting my russes together.
If i remember correctly the command hatch legs socket in the cupola from underneath, then you glue the assembly to the turret.
If that is the case i would shave the round bit on the legs so it can be inserted from the top, build a bracket ( like on the sponsoons) in the turret for the magnets. Glue the cupola to the turret but not the hatch. Add a magnet to the underside of the hatch and the underside of your commander. You will have to be creative with the pintle mounted weapon's placement though. Or get your hands on extra cupolas and have them as larger swappable assemblies.
Sometimes you need to just decide to not sweat it. You could always just run the Russ as a commander or a normal one with the guy on top or without the guy on top. Unless you really care I don’t see why it would matter. That’s a normal tank but there is still gonna be a fancy man with a big hat in there in charge, is there any rules that say he can’t look out the top hatch unless he’s an actual tank commander? That might be a tank commander but the commander doesn’t want to stick his head out the hatch because there’s snipers in the area. So I really feel like that specific modeling choice is really just cosmetic
True, about the necessity of the commander sticking out. You might just make a fancy flag with the antenna mount and magnetize that for a simpler system
I’m gonna experiment on magnetizing the actual commander. If that doesn’t work then I’ll try the flag method. I really want my tank commanders to have a visual difference so that I don’t forget that they are commanders. I don’t have the best memory 😅
Maybe it's overkill, but I used the extra time in lockdown to make a working hinge for the hatch with a paper clip, & making a "seat" out of a bit of sprue, which he covers up
How??? Are you photoing so clean?
Underwhelming comment cracked me up lol
neat
kitbashing is 1/3rd the fun, painting and playing are 2/3rds.
What kind of driller do you need for these?
buy the exact size drill bit by measuring the magnet. Drill bits are very sharp so what I do is tape up (a lot of tape) the end and it becomes easier to grip and then twist and make a hole. To make it easier use your hobby knife and gently spin in the area you are going to make a hole to make a divot. Then use a smaller drill but and twist the depth of your magnet. Then use the exact size and hand twist drill away.
I wish it were possible to give a ❤️ comment on videos and not just a 👍
GW needs to update the Leman Russ model it looks too much like the MK8 Heavy Tank from WW1 but with a Turret.
Bruh magnetization is literally killing games workshop think of all the lost revenue