I just finished doing my first oil change on my '04 MCS... THE HARD WAY. In the future I will try this method- that is amazing. I am glad I did it the "hard way" though- as I came across an oil leak. Thought it was my plug- it wasn't... thought it may be the oil pan gasket... I cleaned it up underneath so I could see where the leak was coming from far better. I checked in with your videos and found the one on the crank sensor o-ring (appearance and symptoms seem to be so). MOD MINI- you have saved me so much time, effort and pain (as well as a ton of money!). Keep up the videos! Thank you sooooo much!
Thanks for this. Here's an additional helpful hint:The 2nd gen aluminum oil filter housings use a double-entry thread that needs to be properly lined up with the base on the car before you try to thread it. You'll cross thread the housing or break off threads if you don't line it up properly (An incompetent scumbag dealer mechanic did this to my car during the free 1st maintenance.) The housing has 2 large flats in the threads, one of which goes all the way through the threads. The base on the car has a little rectangular notch on the inside of the bore that is intended to show where the full thread gap should be started. Line up the flat with the notch (it doesn't have to be perfect) and push the filter down until the O ring starts to prevent motion, THEN start turning. This notch indicator is a standard method for indicating where to start threading these double entry threads - they are not unique to the Mini.(Will look for your method of changing the coolant. I have some hard-won advice there also.)
Anyone who owns a mini my advice is to change the oil+filter every 5000 miles.The service intervals are way too long imo.These are really great engines if serviced regularly.Great video shown here with the extractor.
That is awesome about backing the filter cap off most of the way to get the oil out of it. I have a very clean engine & hate how the oil would make a mess. Now much less mess if any, THANKS!!!!!
Because I'm not strong enough I oiled and pushed the filter onto the engine before screwing the filter cover on. ( Prior to that I pushed the filter on to the cover and then removed it to ease the hole). It worked for me.
Finally got around to changing the oil in my R53. One thing they don't tell you is, you have to push down really hard to get the threads started in the oil filter cap. Next job is to install a 15% supercharger pulley.
Thanks so much for this video my friend. Just dropped the oil on my R53 and replaced with Mobil 1 5w30. It is like a different BEAST! I never thought i would see a difference. Dont know what was used previously but certainly wasn't a patch on the Mobil 1, so smooth too. Next thing is a Decat as its rattling now, good excuse! Big thanks man!
@@ModMINI Yeah man! I bought the car with 165,000 miles with no history and changed to Mobil 1 and it was quite on idle and more responsive throttle. Still have to get the Supercharger oil changed but thats a job for somebody else whose qualified.
I have an oil leek also. My mechanic said i need to relive back pressure, which i have a lot of, before i change any seals or gaskets. I Have just done the glove test on the oil intake and it didn't even move! I don't know what to believe anymore apart from i'm not confident myself to deal with it.
Thanks very much for the videos, they really are so helpful.. I watch them mostly to know more about my car and to make sure I don't get taken for a ride with services. I've sent my R56 for a standard oil/coolant service at the dealership, and they say its low on oil (But I checked it 2 weeks ago - no problem - and there's no oil on my garage floor) They say the oil filter housing gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced, and that is a labour-intensive job that requires removing the radiator fan... however I see from your post the oil filter is nowhere near there, so surely thats not right? I'm pretty sure I'm being taken for a fool. They want to charge about $300 in labour alone (rough conversion to USD as I'm in South Africa) Its really expensive, and I don't want to wrongly accuse them of dishonesty. Have you ever replaced the old filter housing gasket, and if so, should it take 3 hours? Thank you in advance...
I have read some horrible reviews on Amazon about that oil extracter. The first time I watched this video, I went to amazon immediately to buy it. Obviously the reviews stopped me. Have you had any issues? Do you go through a cleaning process each time you use it? Also, I have benefited soo much from your videos. I'm eternally grateful for your service! Thank you.
The oil extractors are superb the reviews you read are from people who have no idea.I have used them for years and they remove every drop of the old oil.
(but the magic autozone computer said it would work!) Egg on my face for not doing more research before hand. Lesson learned picking up my wix from napa tomorrow. Update put in the Napa gold today and everything seems back to normal so far.
Thank you for all the great videos, MOD Mini. This video helped me change the oil in my 2006 R53 the very first time! I also ordered the exact tools you suggested so it made it easy and extremely fun :) You are my inspiration for my Mini and your guidance is extremely appreciated from all of us Mini Freaks. What made you interested in purchasing an R53 in the first place? Did you drive one, fall in love and decide to get one or was it something else? Have a great day, good sir!
Just changed my oil and Thanks to You for the video encouragement ! Only a couple things that I'm wondering your input on. With some insight from the website "NorthAmericanMotoring"; I found that the 1/2" inch standard socket fits a little tighter than the 14mm as I drained the oil pan, have you tried the 1/2" socket? My drain plug was on there so tight I broke not one but two different 1/4" - 3/8" inch socket conversion bits, but then found the 3/8" drive 1/2" inch socket. I should not have tried the Craftsmen 1/4" drive in the first place, but I'm learning. Then as I got the oil filter off, my experience was similar to another "Nam" web site user experience. I could not for the life of me get the oil filter housing up and out through the top, I tried turning it every which way and could not get it past the valve cover. I had to reach in from the bottom and behind the axel near the passenger side front wheel. Mine is an 2006 r53 have you experienced anything like that, is the 2006 a little tighter in that area? Thinking back on it maybe I should have tried to pull the filter out of the housing down in that little area where it is mounted, and then pull the housing and filter out separately. The very first thing I did was loosen the oil filter housing and then tried to jack the car up enough to fit some ramps underneath the tires because the car is to low to drive up the ramps. I was using my dads floor jack and It would not go high enough to get the ramps in underneath the front tires. So I tightened the oil filter back up to 18Lbs and went to get some jack stands from the store the next day. That oil filter (still the old filter) started leaking after I had to tighten it back on. Is that abnormal for it to leak after it had not been leaking for thousands of miles? Even knowing I did loosen it temporarily, maybe I did not get it tight enough? And similar to that after I got my jack stands, I loosened up the oil filter and was expecting it to leak into the oil pan. But a notable amount leaked onto the axel and off the rear lower motor mount, did I loosen to much by chance? Thanks for all the insight !
Drain plug bolt is a 13mm, which is very close but not exactly the same as a 1/2". 13mm is too large a bolt size for the 1/4" socket. You are learning. :-) Personally I usually use a box wrench or ratcheting box wrench. Less chance of it slipping off or going crooked. Filter housing is most easily removed by rotating and turning upside down, then pulling up and out. You need to tilt it slightly and may need to adjust your grasp as your hand may get in the way. You should be able to get with some practice. Not sure if I understand your leak question. Oil filter housing should not leak under operation when tight. It will only leak if it is loose, the o-ring is not in the correct groove, or the o-ring is damaged. Filter housing should sit flat on the housing flange when tight. When removing to change oil, it will drip if you unscrew until all threads come loose. Slow down as you get to the last threads. Leave 1-2 threads engaged and then let it sit there a while.
Love your videos, man! You are a real pro! If you happen upon my post, I was hoping you could solve an issue with the original R50 oil cap my car has... I noticed that when you put the filter back on the oil cover, there was no "cage" present. I have continued to use the cage even though the filters started to be manufactured in 7/2004 with their own rigid, plastic centers. Have you found that the new type filter's plastic center is sufficient, such that the OEM cage is no longer needed. That would be great if it's the case. The reason I ask is that I suspect after a few more times prying the cage out of the old filter will leave it broken. Also, if this is the case, is there any particular filter (OEM, Mann, etc.) you'd steer me to? Your guidance would be appreciated. And thanks again for truly great videos!!!
+mjlwriter would keep using the cage just in case. I don't have a lot of experience with the early R50 housings, but removing it might result in less than normal filter height and not fully close the drain back valve. OEM, Mann, Wix all seem to be good filter brands.
It Should Be Possible To Rest The Oil Service Light On A Gen1 MINI Using One Of The Following Methods (Different Age Cars Have Different Procedures): 1) Press and hold the trip button 2) Insert key and turn to position 1 3) Watch for RESET to appear 4) Release the button, then press & hold it again 5) Wait for the RESET to flash 6) Release the button, and then press & release (once only) 7) Service interval should then be reset to next interval If that didn't work, try this: 1. Push the Trip Button 2. Turn ignition key to position 1 and 51A will appear to left of mileage 3. Release trip button 4. Wait 3 seconds 5. Push trip button 6. Wait (5-8 seconds) for RST to appear in left corner 7. Release trip button 8. Push trip button 9. 15000 will appear as new service interval 10. Release trip button Or this: 1. Press and hold the trip odometer button. 2. Insert car key and turn it to the fi rst position (not the second position). 3. You will see 51A come up in the trip odometer area. 4. Release, then press and hold again. 5. Watch for the word “RST” to appear on the Odometer indicator. 6. Release, then press and hold again. 7. Wait for the “RST” message to fl ash. 8. Release, and then press & release (once only). If None Of Those Work, You Can Clear It With This MINI-Specific OBD Scan Tool: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CJFV06/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002CJFV06&linkCode=as2&tag=mimlif-20
Hi mate. Nice video. I just bought an R53 2003 with 45k miles. I am doing an all fluids replacement+a/c and air filter the upcoming week. Shall I tell my mechanic to replace the supercharger oil or not yet?
I've seen some talk about synthetic oil having adverse effects on this brand of oil extractor over time. Have you noticed anything along those lines through your use?
I can't imagine how that could even be possible. Perhaps people are guessing synthetic oil? I've had no issues with mine and I'd guess anyone that cares enough to buy an oil extractor is running synthetic oil in their car.
I always use an extractor but i now own a R56 mini and the oil extractor will not work on the turbo engine ! Seems like the extractor pipe goes down the dip stick tube for ever it feels like the pipe is doing a loop 😡
Hi there very helpful video instructions. I see the oil you use is Mobile 1 5w30 fully synthetic motor oil, is that oke? Because I see in the manual mini recommended heavy duty motor oil, such as mini or Castrol brand motor oil. Every how many miles you have to change the oil if you use mobile one 5w30 in the mini cooper? Thanks.
Hey mod mini, Having some confusion as to whether or not I should change the oil in my transmission. I bought the car used at 133000 miles and she has treated me well to 147000. I wanted to do some preventative maintenance but when I called a Mini shop, he said not to. Would flush the good out. What would you recommend?
Hi Can the oil filter installed upside down fail the engine to flow oil smoothly? What happen is I took my mini R50 to a work shop and had oil changed, the oil sign never shown before changing but after changing it showed and a clicking noise appear , when I accelerate the sign went off. I thought the oil pump fail , then I change it but still the noise the sign are there. Do you think the problem with oil filter housing?
The orientation of the filter should not make any difference to anything. It is under full oil pressure. It is normal for the valve train to rattle and the oil light to come on after an oil change or when the car has not been driven for several days - that's because there is no oil in the passages - it all drained back into the oil sump - and it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to build back up. If you still have oil pressure light and noise even after changing the filter and adding oil, you might have disturbed the plastic pressure regulator which sits at the bottom of the oil filter assembly. People sometimes dislodge it when cleaning. If the light stays on even after several seconds idle, don't drive the car until you find out what is wrong. Also - it is impossible to install the filter upside down.
I always used the top side method on my 06 MCS. does this method drain as thoroughly on the N 18 engine as well? Or is the dipstick tube too narrow to get the tube down to begin with?
This is a good video for me. Now I have confidence to use this method on my 07MCS. Are or did you already upgrade to a R56? Would like to start seeing some vids on those from you and the difference in parts.
I would like to know what state you are located in...and would you be willing to work on my mini...would be greatly appreciated with all your knowledge about these cars..."06 r53"
A quick question. What's a normal oil consumption for an R53 Mini? I've read about 1L/1000km, which sounds pretty bad and I'm wondering where mine disappears as well. I'm using Castrol's Edge (FST) 0W-40.
I bought a Mityvac and two out of three oil changes, I had to jack it up and drain the remaining 0.2-0.5 liters. the skinny probe you have to use on the R53 seems to curl up in the oil pan, especially when the motor is still pretty warm, softening up that material. Then it sucks air well before getting it all out. Sometimes I can twist it a little and get more out, but tonight all I got was about 3.8 liters with a good amount still coming out of the drain. Is there a trick to getting it into the right place inside the oil pan? I push until there is resistance but not hard. There is that ridge in the dipstick tube you got to get past but at the bottom of the pan, it becomes hard to tell where you need to be.
+Peter Burke I just push through the curve in the tube, then push a little more until I feel the tiniest resistance and then stop. If you keep pushing it can curl up. The trick is to stop right when it bottoms out. Correct, it is easier with the thicker tube because you can feel it better. Also, when it starts sucking air, move the tube up or down and sometimes it will pull more liquid. Repeat until you get nothing but air no matter how long or short the tube is.
Anyone else's factory dipstick seem a little off? Mine seems to run about 1/2-3/4 quart low according to the dipstick and the dealership has told me several times over the years the oil was low but if you top it off to the full mark it'll gradually over time work it self almost to the low line and stop there. I replaced the dipstick o-ring so I know the tube is seated fully.
Great videos. Question I've done oil changes on my Toyota and Hyundai vehicles before. My R60 just came off its boot to bonnet warranty so I decided to do the oil change. Engine was cold. I've got no leaks. When I drained the oil it measured 2.5 quarts. The replacement amount is 4.4 quarts. I've only got 30K miles. Do you think that is normal as my last change was 8,000 miles ago?
Will drain better if engine is hot. Might need to fiddle around with the oil extractor tube to ensure you are not leaving some oil behind in the pan. If you drained out the bottom/or are sure that you got all the oil, then yes, that seems like a lot of missing oil for 8,000 miles. Around 1 or 1.5 litres might be normal. Remember that there is also up to around 200ml stuck in the filter.
I've done about a dozen changes on my r53 and never knew about the check valve in the filter... How do you know how far to go without going to far and letting oil leak out of the filter.
Hi again, On an 02 Mini with the oil filter that has an internal basket and spring. Mine is stuck and i can never remember how to get the filter of without damaging the OG plastic basket. Got any tips? Long screwdriver pushed through the top? I think the basket is supposed to stay fixed to the inside of the lid right? I don't want to break it.....pita...
I haven't had to deal with the 2002 oil filter caps much but I think it is just pull off straight. ... If the basket comes off with the filter, just remove it and reattach to the cap.
Hi, thanks for sharing your videos, very helpful. Could you please check if the engine sound of my 2004 Mini Cooper is normal? There is a video on my channel.
A simple oil change turned into a right pain for me today. Sump plug out and noticed it had some sort of white gunk on it. On closer inspection it was PTFE tape along with a few aluminium threads. Turns out the threads in the sump have been stripped at some point, and whoever did it just wraped the plug in PTFE tape to hold it in. Looks like a new sump for me - luckily you have a good video for this ;) Also when i changed the filter, the housing wont locate properly. It seems to tilt and the threads catch on one side. Any ideas why it might be doing this? Thanks
+Alfie Hillman Just keep trying and eventually it will go straight. Sometimes it feels tilted but it isn't. It would have to be tilted over pretty far to cross thread.Gently tighten and it will probably straighten out. (No more than about 3-4lb-ft of force to get it started)
+Mod MINI I'll have a go tomorrow when I have a bit more patience. The sump threads being stripped really annoyed me, so I was in a bit of a rage trying to get the filter housing back on. Especially after changing the crank position sensor o-ring and chain tensioner. Just had to order another sump, sump gasket and plug to fit later this week. Not looking forward to that. The joys of mini ownership.
I have an R53. I have an oil leak the collects on the bottom of the plastic skid plate. I've fixed the valve cover, oil pan gasket, and oil filter housing. What do you think it could be? Thank you.
Can you help me? I need help lowering the sub frame to remove the transmission pan. If there's a better way with out lowering the sub frame please help/ Thank You...One more thing if you have a video that would be awesome for either way. Thanks again
+Valentin Rodriguez Automatic transmission? I have no video. I have no experience working on automatic transmissions. But I know that you have to lower the subframe. Either that or remove engine/transmission. There are a couple bolts that you won't be able to get out.
Do you know anything about a flapping sound (Sounds like thin plastic getting flicked) coming from behind the centre support on the passenger side. Its sort of behind down to the left of the radio. i dont know what causes it to happen, it seems random. I thought i would ask as you may have come across the exact thing or somebody here may have. EDIT. My car is right hand drive
@@ModMINI i believe it is something to do with the HVAC system but messing with the dials dont seem to affect it. Is their some kind of pump involved near that location? because i have heard strange water sounds. Thanks for your help. i will do further investigation. i will post when i solve it. :D
HEY Mod MINI I change my oil today and the drain back plunger valve came out i was able to put it back in but now the oil light is on i put it in the main engine oil fill but no i need to put a little oil in the dipstick slot. What should i do? very appreciated if i can fix this problem Mod MINI
+justin hawn Sorry, but you need a new oil filter housing. People need to resist the urge to wipe out the filter housing. That drainback valve is very easy to damage.
@modmini I was looking at a 2005 MCS with 111k miles. I let it idle for about 5-10mins then shut off but when I pulled out dipstick, smoke was coming out of the dipstick tube. Is this normal for Minis?
@@trytechgeek yeah likely PCV should be replaced. It's a very easy fix. To test whether that's the issue, take a latex/rubber glove, take the oil cap off the valve cover, and put the glove over the hole while the car is running to see whether it's being inflated or not. If it's being inflated, change the PCV. I tried this on my own car and the test works!
my friend i want your help i have mini r53 2005 year 120k mil can you tall me what kind of engine oil it need and how much liter ? and which oil filter you can recommended me . thanks
I just got my licence a month ago, and i own a mini 2002 r50 1.6 petrol, 85kw, and...i have no aknowledge in matter car maintenance, i have some questions: factory reccomends for my engine 0w-40 castrol oil, i-ve put in 1 litre of 0w-30 then mixed with 0w-40 later, theyre both fully synthethic oil is there a major problem can i use 0w-40 oil made by another company thats mahbe cheaper? second question: i have no ideea of what coolant to add in the expansion tank, i found someone that puts in a pink or orange coolant g-12, some pour blue coolant...im confused, and which are the proportion of mixing water (distilled?) and coolant, i guess i have to drain out all coolant first to pour new one. third: i was parking the car in revers and at one instance the steering pump turned off and my steer was very heavy untill i restarted engine, what that might be? happened once. uhm thats it...for now :) please answer im novice into this but i learn quick
+Butcher89 Synthetic 0w40 or 5w30 are fine. I wouldn't mix them. First gen MINI really don't care what kind of coolant. Yellow or green are fine. Try to avoid mixing. 50-50 mix is generally OK. You'll have to flush coolant. Not possible to drain 100%. You might have a bad power steering pump. Check with your dealer if there is extended warranty in your country for this. If not, see my replacement video.
+Mod MINI i've red on a forum, that first gen mini had common problems with steering pump theyre electrical mainly, someone get to repair them by cleaning dirt off some parts inside the pump, he had a tutorial, if you are interested i can try find it
+Mod MINI would you consider recording a video in which you change the coolant? and make a playlist with mini maintenance dues that would help many of us, your gas and oil filtres change tuts are great
It is full of oil. No leaks etc. It seems strange it would happen after the oil change because I have had it stored all winter and started it last week with no light. I guess I will have to get it checked out. Thanks for responding!
new.minimania.com/part/NMG7298/Redline-Non-slip-Synthetic-Cvt-Transmission-Fluid-1-Qt Hello, its me again dear Mod MINI; according to this source, the Getrag 5 speed manual gearboxes were been mounted on Coopers instead of Midlands` from 07.2004 to 2006. What do you think, is there any reason to doubt the veracity of this source? thank you.
I just finished doing my first oil change on my '04 MCS... THE HARD WAY. In the future I will try this method- that is amazing. I am glad I did it the "hard way" though- as I came across an oil leak. Thought it was my plug- it wasn't... thought it may be the oil pan gasket... I cleaned it up underneath so I could see where the leak was coming from far better. I checked in with your videos and found the one on the crank sensor o-ring (appearance and symptoms seem to be so). MOD MINI- you have saved me so much time, effort and pain (as well as a ton of money!). Keep up the videos! Thank you sooooo much!
Thanks for this. Here's an additional helpful hint:The 2nd gen aluminum oil filter housings use a double-entry thread that needs to be properly lined up with the base on the car before you try to thread it. You'll cross thread the housing or break off threads if you don't line it up properly (An incompetent scumbag dealer mechanic did this to my car during the free 1st maintenance.) The housing has 2 large flats in the threads, one of which goes all the way through the threads. The base on the car has a little rectangular notch on the inside of the bore that is intended to show where the full thread gap should be started. Line up the flat with the notch (it doesn't have to be perfect) and push the filter down until the O ring starts to prevent motion, THEN start turning. This notch indicator is a standard method for indicating where to start threading these double entry threads - they are not unique to the Mini.(Will look for your method of changing the coolant. I have some hard-won advice there also.)
Did my first oil change ever on my own after watching this video! Thank you sir!
Anyone who owns a mini my advice is to change the oil+filter every 5000 miles.The service intervals are way too long imo.These are really great engines if serviced regularly.Great video shown here with the extractor.
Absolutely. 5k is the community consensus.
Could you do a video on changing the spark plugs and rear washer. And an exhaust if possible. On an Cooper
That is awesome about backing the filter cap off most of the way to get the oil out of it. I have a very clean engine & hate how the oil would make a mess. Now much less mess if any, THANKS!!!!!
did my oil change yesterday. It went flawless thanks for the video.
Because I'm not strong enough I oiled and pushed the filter onto the engine before screwing the filter cover on. ( Prior to that I pushed the filter on to the cover and then removed it to ease the hole). It worked for me.
Yes such a calming voice
Thanks for making this video and helping me save a few bucks.
Finally got around to changing the oil in my R53. One thing they don't tell you is, you have to push down really hard to get the threads started in the oil filter cap. Next job is to install a 15% supercharger pulley.
Thanks so much for this video my friend. Just dropped the oil on my R53 and replaced with Mobil 1 5w30. It is like a different BEAST! I never thought i would see a difference. Dont know what was used previously but certainly wasn't a patch on the Mobil 1, so smooth too. Next thing is a Decat as its rattling now, good excuse! Big thanks man!
You noticed a performance difference just by changing oil? That is odd.
@@ModMINI Yeah man! I bought the car with 165,000 miles with no history and changed to Mobil 1 and it was quite on idle and more responsive throttle. Still have to get the Supercharger oil changed but thats a job for somebody else whose qualified.
I have an oil leek also. My mechanic said i need to relive back pressure, which i have a lot of, before i change any seals or gaskets. I Have just done the glove test on the oil intake and it didn't even move! I don't know what to believe anymore apart from i'm not confident myself to deal with it.
Good stuff man. Thanks for the vid. Added to my shopping list.
Thanks very much for the videos, they really are so helpful.. I watch them mostly to know more about my car and to make sure I don't get taken for a ride with services. I've sent my R56 for a standard oil/coolant service at the dealership, and they say its low on oil (But I checked it 2 weeks ago - no problem - and there's no oil on my garage floor) They say the oil filter housing gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced, and that is a labour-intensive job that requires removing the radiator fan... however I see from your post the oil filter is nowhere near there, so surely thats not right? I'm pretty sure I'm being taken for a fool. They want to charge about $300 in labour alone (rough conversion to USD as I'm in South Africa) Its really expensive, and I don't want to wrongly accuse them of dishonesty. Have you ever replaced the old filter housing gasket, and if so, should it take 3 hours? Thank you in advance...
When you hear the pump start slurping at the end you're required to yell "I DRINK YOUR MILKSHAKE!"🤪
Great video. love that top side!
I have read some horrible reviews on Amazon about that oil extracter. The first time I watched this video, I went to amazon immediately to buy it. Obviously the reviews stopped me. Have you had any issues? Do you go through a cleaning process each time you use it?
Also, I have benefited soo much from your videos. I'm eternally grateful for your service! Thank you.
The oil extractors are superb the reviews you read are from people who have no idea.I have used them for years and they remove every drop of the old oil.
Fantastic videos.. please keep them coming :)
Make sure you guys get and OEM or Napa Gold filter. I made the mistake of trying and STP and instantly had issues.
laxmannate07 oem, wix and mahle brands are all fine. STP for a German car? Haha.
(but the magic autozone computer said it would work!) Egg on my face for not doing more research before hand. Lesson learned picking up my wix from napa tomorrow. Update put in the Napa gold today and everything seems back to normal so far.
Thank you for all the great videos, MOD Mini. This video helped me change the oil in my 2006 R53 the very first time! I also ordered the exact tools you suggested so it made it easy and extremely fun :) You are my inspiration for my Mini and your guidance is extremely appreciated from all of us Mini Freaks. What made you interested in purchasing an R53 in the first place? Did you drive one, fall in love and decide to get one or was it something else? Have a great day, good sir!
Good video. Nice and easy to follow.
Just changed my oil and Thanks to You for the video encouragement ! Only a couple things that I'm wondering your input on. With some insight from the website "NorthAmericanMotoring"; I found that the 1/2" inch standard socket fits a little tighter than the 14mm as I drained the oil pan, have you tried the 1/2" socket? My drain plug was on there so tight I broke not one but two different 1/4" - 3/8" inch socket conversion bits, but then found the 3/8" drive 1/2" inch socket. I should not have tried the Craftsmen 1/4" drive in the first place, but I'm learning.
Then as I got the oil filter off, my experience was similar to another "Nam" web site user experience. I could not for the life of me get the oil filter housing up and out through the top, I tried turning it every which way and could not get it past the valve cover. I had to reach in from the bottom and behind the axel near the passenger side front wheel. Mine is an 2006 r53 have you experienced anything like that, is the 2006 a little tighter in that area? Thinking back on it maybe I should have tried to pull the filter out of the housing down in that little area where it is mounted, and then pull the housing and filter out separately.
The very first thing I did was loosen the oil filter housing and then tried to jack the car up enough to fit some ramps underneath the tires because the car is to low to drive up the ramps. I was using my dads floor jack and It would not go high enough to get the ramps in underneath the front tires. So I tightened the oil filter back up to 18Lbs and went to get some jack stands from the store the next day. That oil filter (still the old filter) started leaking after I had to tighten it back on. Is that abnormal for it to leak after it had not been leaking for thousands of miles? Even knowing I did loosen it temporarily, maybe I did not get it tight enough? And similar to that after I got my jack stands, I loosened up the oil filter and was expecting it to leak into the oil pan. But a notable amount leaked onto the axel and off the rear lower motor mount, did I loosen to much by chance?
Thanks for all the insight !
Drain plug bolt is a 13mm, which is very close but not exactly the same as a 1/2". 13mm is too large a bolt size for the 1/4" socket. You are learning. :-) Personally I usually use a box wrench or ratcheting box wrench. Less chance of it slipping off or going crooked.
Filter housing is most easily removed by rotating and turning upside down, then pulling up and out. You need to tilt it slightly and may need to adjust your grasp as your hand may get in the way. You should be able to get with some practice.
Not sure if I understand your leak question. Oil filter housing should not leak under operation when tight. It will only leak if it is loose, the o-ring is not in the correct groove, or the o-ring is damaged. Filter housing should sit flat on the housing flange when tight.
When removing to change oil, it will drip if you unscrew until all threads come loose. Slow down as you get to the last threads. Leave 1-2 threads engaged and then let it sit there a while.
Would love to see a r52 coolant flush video! :) There is not a good one on youtube
No real good way to do one other than drain and refill a few times.
Do you know when your car is full of oil? That little channel indicator on the dipstick full of oil? Is that what it means when it's full?
Love your videos, man! You are a real pro! If you happen upon my post, I was hoping you could solve an issue with the original R50 oil cap my car has... I noticed that when you put the filter back on the oil cover, there was no "cage" present. I have continued to use the cage even though the filters started to be manufactured in 7/2004 with their own rigid, plastic centers. Have you found that the new type filter's plastic center is sufficient, such that the OEM cage is no longer needed. That would be great if it's the case. The reason I ask is that I suspect after a few more times prying the cage out of the old filter will leave it broken. Also, if this is the case, is there any particular filter (OEM, Mann, etc.) you'd steer me to? Your guidance would be appreciated. And thanks again for truly great videos!!!
+mjlwriter would keep using the cage just in case. I don't have a lot of experience with the early R50 housings, but removing it might result in less than normal filter height and not fully close the drain back valve. OEM, Mann, Wix all seem to be good filter brands.
Hi!
Nice Video.
But I Want To Ask You How To Rest
The Miles Remaining To Change The Oil.
Thanks!
For Those Nice Videos.
It Should Be Possible To Rest The Oil Service Light On A Gen1 MINI Using One Of The Following Methods (Different Age Cars Have Different Procedures):
1) Press and hold the trip button
2) Insert key and turn to position 1
3) Watch for RESET to appear
4) Release the button, then press & hold it again
5) Wait for the RESET to flash
6) Release the button, and then press & release (once only)
7) Service interval should then be reset to next interval
If that didn't work, try this:
1. Push the Trip Button
2. Turn ignition key to position 1 and 51A will appear to left of mileage
3. Release trip button
4. Wait 3 seconds
5. Push trip button
6. Wait (5-8 seconds) for RST to appear in left corner
7. Release trip button
8. Push trip button
9. 15000 will appear as new service interval
10. Release trip button
Or this:
1. Press and hold the trip odometer button.
2. Insert car key and turn it to the fi rst position (not the second position).
3. You will see 51A come up in the trip odometer area.
4. Release, then press and hold again.
5. Watch for the word “RST” to appear on the Odometer indicator.
6. Release, then press and hold again.
7. Wait for the “RST” message to fl ash.
8. Release, and then press & release (once only).
If None Of Those Work, You Can Clear It With This MINI-Specific OBD Scan Tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CJFV06/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002CJFV06&linkCode=as2&tag=mimlif-20
Thanks You!
Hi mate. Nice video. I just bought an R53 2003 with 45k miles. I am doing an all fluids replacement+a/c and air filter the upcoming week. Shall I tell my mechanic to replace the supercharger oil or not yet?
Probably ok at that age but do it before 75 or so due to the age
I've seen some talk about synthetic oil having adverse effects on this brand of oil extractor over time. Have you noticed anything along those lines through your use?
I can't imagine how that could even be possible. Perhaps people are guessing synthetic oil? I've had no issues with mine and I'd guess anyone that cares enough to buy an oil extractor is running synthetic oil in their car.
Great Video. Thanks.
I always use an extractor but i now own a R56 mini and the oil extractor will not work on the turbo engine ! Seems like the extractor pipe goes down the dip stick tube for ever it feels like the pipe is doing a loop 😡
very informative..cheers
I have 2 different o- rings on my oil filter on my 03 cooper, one where you put urs then one above along those little metal bumps…is that bad?
Hi there very helpful video instructions.
I see the oil you use is Mobile 1 5w30 fully synthetic motor oil, is that oke? Because I see in the manual mini recommended heavy duty motor oil, such as mini or Castrol brand motor oil.
Every how many miles you have to change the oil if you use mobile one 5w30 in the mini cooper?
Thanks.
Mobil1 is same quality as castor or MINI brand oil.
What is the difference between mobile1 0w-40 (which is recommended for European car or BMW car).
Can I use Mobile1 0w-40 for my mini?
Thanks
Great video thanks
Hey mod mini,
Having some confusion as to whether or not I should change the oil in my transmission. I bought the car used at 133000 miles and she has treated me well to 147000. I wanted to do some preventative maintenance but when I called a Mini shop, he said not to. Would flush the good out. What would you recommend?
+Chris Huckeba I would.
Hi
Can the oil filter installed upside down fail the engine to flow oil smoothly? What happen is I took my mini R50 to a work shop and had oil changed, the oil sign never shown before changing but after changing it showed and a clicking noise appear , when I accelerate the sign went off. I thought the oil pump fail , then I change it but still the noise the sign are there.
Do you think the problem with oil filter housing?
The orientation of the filter should not make any difference to anything. It is under full oil pressure. It is normal for the valve train to rattle and the oil light to come on after an oil change or when the car has not been driven for several days - that's because there is no oil in the passages - it all drained back into the oil sump - and it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to build back up.
If you still have oil pressure light and noise even after changing the filter and adding oil, you might have disturbed the plastic pressure regulator which sits at the bottom of the oil filter assembly. People sometimes dislodge it when cleaning.
If the light stays on even after several seconds idle, don't drive the car until you find out what is wrong.
Also - it is impossible to install the filter upside down.
Thank, I will check and let you know
Thanks again
Thank you for the video! Do you have a video on how to check/change the transmission fluid on a 2006 R53 6 speed manual transmission?
No video just for that but I show drain and fill in my clutch replacement videos.
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!
I always used the top side method on my 06 MCS. does this method drain as thoroughly on the N 18 engine as well? Or is the dipstick tube too narrow to get the tube down to begin with?
This is a good video for me. Now I have confidence to use this method on my 07MCS.
Are or did you already upgrade to a R56?
Would like to start seeing some vids on those from you and the difference in parts.
No plans to get an R56 but I work on them sometimes.
I would like to know what state you are located in...and would you be willing to work on my mini...would be greatly appreciated with all your knowledge about these cars..."06 r53"
Seattle, WA area. Please send a private message from my channel page if interested.
So if I use the oil draining tool, when should I be changing the drain plug? Never? 0.o
Do you still recommend that equipment you used to extract the oil on this video? What brand is it? Do you have a coolant flush video on a Countryman?
Thanks a lot. Great help mate
A quick question. What's a normal oil consumption for an R53 Mini? I've read about 1L/1000km, which sounds pretty bad and I'm wondering where mine disappears as well. I'm using Castrol's Edge (FST) 0W-40.
One liter per 1000 miles is pretty common even on very low mile R53s.
The inside of the supercharger intercooler is always pretty oily so it appears most of the oil comes from the crankcase ventilation.
Thanks!
Does the R53 take 4.5 quarts of oil?
Thomas Trotta 5 quarts, 4.7 liters.
I'm convinced Mod MINI is really Maynard James Keenan.
awesome video, just got my 2006 R53. Can you make a video on AC/Heater blower replacement, thanks lot in advance cheers
PRANAriders Haven't had to do this, if the job comes up I'll record.
+Mod MINI what oil do you recommend, the manual said 5w-40 and 5w-30. I got 60,000 miles on my 2006 R53. I live in NY, my mini is stock. Thanks
I bought a Mityvac and two out of three oil changes, I had to jack it up and drain the remaining 0.2-0.5 liters. the skinny probe you have to use on the R53 seems to curl up in the oil pan, especially when the motor is still pretty warm, softening up that material. Then it sucks air well before getting it all out. Sometimes I can twist it a little and get more out, but tonight all I got was about 3.8 liters with a good amount still coming out of the drain. Is there a trick to getting it into the right place inside the oil pan? I push until there is resistance but not hard. There is that ridge in the dipstick tube you got to get past but at the bottom of the pan, it becomes hard to tell where you need to be.
+Peter Burke I just push through the curve in the tube, then push a little more until I feel the tiniest resistance and then stop. If you keep pushing it can curl up. The trick is to stop right when it bottoms out. Correct, it is easier with the thicker tube because you can feel it better. Also, when it starts sucking air, move the tube up or down and sometimes it will pull more liquid. Repeat until you get nothing but air no matter how long or short the tube is.
For a 2002 or 2003 R53, how do you put the "new" filters (with integrated plastic structure) into the old filter cap with the plastic cage and spring?
Just put it over the plastic cage.
Anyone else's factory dipstick seem a little off? Mine seems to run about 1/2-3/4 quart low according to the dipstick and the dealership has told me several times over the years the oil was low but if you top it off to the full mark it'll gradually over time work it self almost to the low line and stop there. I replaced the dipstick o-ring so I know the tube is seated fully.
This is considered normal. The correct procedure is to top off if oil falls to below the low line.
Great videos.
Question I've done oil changes on my Toyota and Hyundai vehicles before. My R60 just came off its boot to bonnet warranty so I decided to do the oil change. Engine was cold. I've got no leaks. When I drained the oil it measured 2.5 quarts. The replacement amount is 4.4 quarts. I've only got 30K miles. Do you think that is normal as my last change was 8,000 miles ago?
Will drain better if engine is hot. Might need to fiddle around with the oil extractor tube to ensure you are not leaving some oil behind in the pan. If you drained out the bottom/or are sure that you got all the oil, then yes, that seems like a lot of missing oil for 8,000 miles. Around 1 or 1.5 litres might be normal. Remember that there is also up to around 200ml stuck in the filter.
+Mod MINI thanks a bunch. Cheers!
I've done about a dozen changes on my r53 and never knew about the check valve in the filter... How do you know how far to go without going to far and letting oil leak out of the filter.
When it feels like it is hanging on by the last 1 or 2 threads.
Thanks again!
Hi again, On an 02 Mini with the oil filter that has an internal basket and spring. Mine is stuck and i can never remember how to get the filter of without damaging the OG plastic basket.
Got any tips? Long screwdriver pushed through the top? I think the basket is supposed to stay fixed to the inside of the lid right?
I don't want to break it.....pita...
I haven't had to deal with the 2002 oil filter caps much but I think it is just pull off straight. ... If the basket comes off with the filter, just remove it and reattach to the cap.
Hi, thanks for sharing your videos, very helpful.
Could you please check if the engine sound of my 2004 Mini Cooper is normal? There is a video on my channel.
I can't hear the clicking because of the engine revving. Can you make one at idle or low RPM?
good video
A simple oil change turned into a right pain for me today.
Sump plug out and noticed it had some sort of white gunk on it. On closer inspection it was PTFE tape along with a few aluminium threads.
Turns out the threads in the sump have been stripped at some point, and whoever did it just wraped the plug in PTFE tape to hold it in.
Looks like a new sump for me - luckily you have a good video for this ;)
Also when i changed the filter, the housing wont locate properly. It seems to tilt and the threads catch on one side. Any ideas why it might be doing this?
Thanks
+Alfie Hillman Just keep trying and eventually it will go straight. Sometimes it feels tilted but it isn't. It would have to be tilted over pretty far to cross thread.Gently tighten and it will probably straighten out. (No more than about 3-4lb-ft of force to get it started)
+Mod MINI I'll have a go tomorrow when I have a bit more patience.
The sump threads being stripped really annoyed me, so I was in a bit of a rage trying to get the filter housing back on. Especially after changing the crank position sensor o-ring and chain tensioner.
Just had to order another sump, sump gasket and plug to fit later this week. Not looking forward to that.
The joys of mini ownership.
Hi
I have a 2002 cooper s and im having to put say 1 litre in every 6 months. I cant see any major leaks but was curious is this quite normal?
I liter every 5000 miles / 8000km is normal.
I have an R53. I have an oil leak the collects on the bottom of the plastic skid plate. I've fixed the valve cover, oil pan gasket, and oil filter housing. What do you think it could be? Thank you.
That's a crank sensor o-ring seal, the most common leak of them all.
Mod MINI Thank you, Sir. I'll look for your video on that one! 👍🏾
so is this your preffered method when changing your own mini oil or do you just use it only when you dont feel like putting it on the air?
+Frank Nativi I always do it this way.
Can you help me? I need help lowering the sub frame to remove the transmission pan. If there's a better way with out lowering the sub frame please help/ Thank You...One more thing if you have a video that would be awesome for either way. Thanks again
+Valentin Rodriguez Automatic transmission? I have no video. I have no experience working on automatic transmissions. But I know that you have to lower the subframe. Either that or remove engine/transmission. There are a couple bolts that you won't be able to get out.
makes it what if one fills 5l oil?
or must be exactly 4,7l oil ?
Probably no damage, but 5L is a little too much.
*****
OK thanks
Do you absolutely have to change the drain plug after every oil change?
No. Not if seal is good.
thank you!
Do you know anything about a flapping sound (Sounds like thin plastic getting flicked) coming from behind the centre support on the passenger side. Its sort of behind down to the left of the radio. i dont know what causes it to happen, it seems random.
I thought i would ask as you may have come across the exact thing or somebody here may have.
EDIT. My car is right hand drive
Broken HVAC blend door maybe?
@@ModMINI i believe it is something to do with the HVAC system but messing with the dials dont seem to affect it. Is their some kind of pump involved near that location? because i have heard strange water sounds. Thanks for your help. i will do further investigation. i will post when i solve it. :D
I had this issue. It was a loose cover for that center console. Get a ratchet or hex wrench in there and tighten it down. Should do the trick!
Thanks @@cversestaff4152
HEY Mod MINI
I change my oil today and the drain back plunger valve came out i was able to put it back in but now the oil light is on i put it in the main engine oil fill but no i need to put a little oil in the dipstick slot. What should i do? very appreciated if i can fix this problem Mod MINI
+justin hawn Sorry, but you need a new oil filter housing. People need to resist the urge to wipe out the filter housing. That drainback valve is very easy to damage.
+Mod MINI thanks u very much
@modmini I was looking at a 2005 MCS with 111k miles. I let it idle for about 5-10mins then shut off but when I pulled out dipstick, smoke was coming out of the dipstick tube. Is this normal for Minis?
Oil vapor yes, smoke no
@@ModMINI it looked like wispy white smoke, similar to an essential oil diffuser. It ran great though, no lights. Defective PCV maybe?
@@trytechgeek yeah likely PCV should be replaced. It's a very easy fix. To test whether that's the issue, take a latex/rubber glove, take the oil cap off the valve cover, and put the glove over the hole while the car is running to see whether it's being inflated or not. If it's being inflated, change the PCV. I tried this on my own car and the test works!
my friend i want your help
i have mini r53 2005 year 120k mil can you tall me what kind of engine oil it need and how much liter ? and which oil filter you can recommended me .
thanks
full synthetic, 4.7 liters, any non-budget filter.
thanks you my friend
I just got my licence a month ago, and i own a mini 2002 r50 1.6 petrol, 85kw, and...i have no aknowledge in matter car maintenance, i have some questions: factory reccomends for my engine 0w-40 castrol oil, i-ve put in 1 litre of 0w-30 then mixed with 0w-40 later, theyre both fully synthethic oil is there a major problem can i use 0w-40 oil made by another company thats mahbe cheaper? second question: i have no ideea of what coolant to add in the expansion tank, i found someone that puts in a pink or orange coolant g-12, some pour blue coolant...im confused, and which are the proportion of mixing water (distilled?) and coolant, i guess i have to drain out all coolant first to pour new one. third: i was parking the car in revers and at one instance the steering pump turned off and my steer was very heavy untill i restarted engine, what that might be? happened once. uhm thats it...for now :) please answer im novice into this but i learn quick
+Butcher89 Synthetic 0w40 or 5w30 are fine. I wouldn't mix them. First gen MINI really don't care what kind of coolant. Yellow or green are fine. Try to avoid mixing. 50-50 mix is generally OK. You'll have to flush coolant. Not possible to drain 100%. You might have a bad power steering pump. Check with your dealer if there is extended warranty in your country for this. If not, see my replacement video.
+Mod MINI thanks a bunch!
+Mod MINI i've red on a forum, that first gen mini had common problems with steering pump theyre electrical mainly, someone get to repair them by cleaning dirt off some parts inside the pump, he had a tutorial, if you are interested i can try find it
+Butcher89 That is a good temporary solution for a lot of brushed motors. I've done that to fix a broken mini power door lock actuator before.
+Mod MINI would you consider recording a video in which you change the coolant? and make a playlist with mini maintenance dues that would help many of us, your gas and oil filtres change tuts are great
where do i get that "oil suction tool" as im going to call it lol
me2456 See video description for a purchase link.
***** i knew that.. and totally didnt over look it before XD
I'm curious why you have it jacked up. Does that help it drain better?
I was doing some other work on the car.
Hi Boss,
Is it true that Mini Cooper S need a quart of oil top off every 500 miles or so;
even though there is no oil burning?
Thanx.
It's common for them to consume oil between changes. I recommend checking a couple times between changes.
What oil filter do you recommend? OEM or MANN?
They are both good MANN is also OEM spec, I use them all the time on my bmw
Hi I ordered a extractor cool. How do you reset the service engine soon light. Thx
+djtoo7 Use a reset tool, or follow new.minimania.com/Oil_Service_Interval_Reset___02_06_MINIs . I use a Peake reader to do this.
+Mod MINI I changed my oil today and the engine light is now on. It wasn't on before the change. Is this normal and require a reset?
+JASONvsBOSCO Unless you have no oil in the engine, the light must be unrelated.
It is full of oil. No leaks etc. It seems strange it would happen after the oil change because I have had it stored all winter and started it last week with no light. I guess I will have to get it checked out. Thanks for responding!
new.minimania.com/part/NMG7298/Redline-Non-slip-Synthetic-Cvt-Transmission-Fluid-1-Qt
Hello, its me again dear Mod MINI;
according to this source, the Getrag 5 speed manual gearboxes were been mounted on Coopers instead of Midlands` from 07.2004 to 2006. What do you think, is there any reason to doubt the veracity of this source?
thank you.
I think that is the cutoff.
did my oil change yesterday. It went flawless thanks for the video.