ALWAYS use a 1 piece pic rail, but I haven't seen where a monolithic scope mount adds any more rigidity than the solid rail itself and 2 rings. The issue is when separate ring bases are used, now your action is the "rigid" part, and it moves!
Awesome video, yes I know a 416rem mag is no benchrest class rifle but it did shoot sub moa. I had to use a 1 piece base because it would knock the 2 piece bases around. The only rifle that I dont have the 1 peices is my 98k
A 1-piece mount does not guarantee perfect ring alignment. That may be a function of price, because I had a problem with a $135 1-piece mount. Recently, I got a new bolt action rifle and wanted to borrow a scope from an AR. I moved the Warne 1-piece mount over and decided to check the ring alignment just because. To my surprise it was off significantly. I pulled out a Leupold 1-piece mount I hadn’t used yet and its alignment *was* perfect. It also cost $50 less. (Sample size of 1 each so take it for what it’s worth)
One piece makes a whole lot of sense, but the one piece units I’ve used in the past tend to put the scope higher above the bore than do individual “low” rings. Maybe I’m not looking hard enough for low mounted once piece units? Any suggestions? I’m always on a budget.
What exactly is scope tube preload? And how would i avoid it if im using two piece system. I do switch scopes from gun to gun frequently and shoot prs style comps
@@winninginthewindis there a difference in lapping steel vs. aluminum? My hunch is that steel is better if you need to lap rings, but it’s only a hunch.
The more I can put on the receiver for my factory varmint rifles in one piece is best for me with steel rings. To me a few ounces I dont care.. i just work out harder at the gym..
Kelby's specifically state that the rail on the F-Class Panda is for 2 piece rings only. If it were me, I'd just give them a call and ask. They would be the ones that would know if any one-piece mount works.
Not, no matter what Hollyweird will tell you. Any time you take an optic off you will need to re-zero: it's only 3-5 shots, so it's not a big deal, but it needs to be done.
It’s a quality issue, the mating between your rail and the mount. You can easily pay enough these days to achieve reliability. I use SPUHR QD mounts and my zero doesn’t shift enough for me to notice…at least at 600 yards.
One-piece mount is the right solution for all cartridges above 6mm. The rings is a way to go only for benchrest, where you do not put your cheek on the cheekpiece and shoot free-recoil. For everything else one-piece mount is the way to go. There is no question about it. So, the video refers to artificial problem. If money was no issue, all people would buy one-piece mounts for their rifles (hunters as well!).
Very interesting. I am "personalizing" my new RPR in .338 LM and I ordered a 2-piece set of rings, but cancelled the order to buy a 1-piece mount because of my color-scheme... nothing more... because the rings were taking too long to get to me (I don't like waiting too long for anything), and I was second-guessing my decision based on the caliber of my rifle. I just hope that I'll be ok with the 1-piece!
One more consideration. On my Ruger M77 in 7mm rem mag the scope is attached with the two piece Ruger style rings (consistently seems to hold zero), on my Savage 110 in 300 win mag I opted to go with a one piece picatinny rail (Leupold). With the latter, that setup makes it considerably less easy/comfortable to load the rifle (110 has internal mag w/o floor plate) especially when using gloves. If I had large hands I imagine the situation would only be exacerbated. Not a big enough inconvenience for my amount of shooting or to feel like my hunting is being hampered, so I haven’t bothered to replace and re-zero...nonetheless, on my next rifle purchase it will definitely be on my mind during the process.
For applications where weight is an issue I use "ERATAC Ultralight One-Piece Mounts". They are about 130g or 4.5 oz.
For me it’s not about oz ‘s. I need room for my thumb up over the action when carrying in the field , two piece for me every time .
Thank you for this explanation.
Nice example. Thanks.
ALWAYS use a 1 piece pic rail, but I haven't seen where a monolithic scope mount adds any more rigidity than the solid rail itself and 2 rings. The issue is when separate ring bases are used, now your action is the "rigid" part, and it moves!
Awesome video, yes I know a 416rem mag is no benchrest class rifle but it did shoot sub moa. I had to use a 1 piece base because it would knock the 2 piece bases around. The only rifle that I dont have the 1 peices is my 98k
A 1-piece mount does not guarantee perfect ring alignment. That may be a function of price, because I had a problem with a $135 1-piece mount. Recently, I got a new bolt action rifle and wanted to borrow a scope from an AR. I moved the Warne 1-piece mount over and decided to check the ring alignment just because. To my surprise it was off significantly. I pulled out a Leupold 1-piece mount I hadn’t used yet and its alignment *was* perfect. It also cost $50 less. (Sample size of 1 each so take it for what it’s worth)
Thanks for the videos! Did you modify that NF Magmount to work with the Kelblys Panda? Thank you!
One piece makes a whole lot of sense, but the one piece units I’ve used in the past tend to put the scope higher above the bore than do individual “low” rings. Maybe I’m not looking hard enough for low mounted once piece units? Any suggestions? I’m always on a budget.
What rig and application do you use to see your target on your pad?
What exactly is scope tube preload? And how would i avoid it if im using two piece system. I do switch scopes from gun to gun frequently and shoot prs style comps
You’re voice sounds like the male version of siri
Can I add a variable? What would you choose between one-piece Alluminium alloy vs. steel loose rings?
Depends on application. weight is not the only concern.
@@winninginthewindis there a difference in lapping steel vs. aluminum? My hunch is that steel is better if you need to lap rings, but it’s only a hunch.
The more I can put on the receiver for my factory varmint rifles in one piece is best for me with steel rings. To me a few ounces I dont care.. i just work out harder at the gym..
1-piece if you can deal with a little extra weight.
The panda F-Class has a non mil spec pic rail . Do you know of a one piece mount that works well in this application?
Kelby's specifically state that the rail on the F-Class Panda is for 2 piece rings only. If it were me, I'd just give them a call and ask. They would be the ones that would know if any one-piece mount works.
Which type of reticle you have on that Nightforce?
All of my comps are DDR-2
Thanks
How repeatable are quick detachable mounts for benchrest
Not, no matter what Hollyweird will tell you. Any time you take an optic off you will need to re-zero: it's only 3-5 shots, so it's not a big deal, but it needs to be done.
It’s a quality issue, the mating between your rail and the mount. You can easily pay enough these days to achieve reliability. I use SPUHR QD mounts and my zero doesn’t shift enough for me to notice…at least at 600 yards.
👍🙏
One-piece mount is the right solution for all cartridges above 6mm. The rings is a way to go only for benchrest, where you do not put your cheek on the cheekpiece and shoot free-recoil. For everything else one-piece mount is the way to go. There is no question about it. So, the video refers to artificial problem. If money was no issue, all people would buy one-piece mounts for their rifles (hunters as well!).
Very interesting. I am "personalizing" my new RPR in .338 LM and I ordered a 2-piece set of rings, but cancelled the order to buy a 1-piece mount because of my color-scheme... nothing more... because the rings were taking too long to get to me (I don't like waiting too long for anything), and I was second-guessing my decision based on the caliber of my rifle. I just hope that I'll be ok with the 1-piece!
One more consideration. On my Ruger M77 in 7mm rem mag the scope is attached with the two piece Ruger style rings (consistently seems to hold zero), on my Savage 110 in 300 win mag I opted to go with a one piece picatinny rail (Leupold). With the latter, that setup makes it considerably less easy/comfortable to load the rifle (110 has internal mag w/o floor plate) especially when using gloves. If I had large hands I imagine the situation would only be exacerbated. Not a big enough inconvenience for my amount of shooting or to feel like my hunting is being hampered, so I haven’t bothered to replace and re-zero...nonetheless, on my next rifle purchase it will definitely be on my mind during the process.
Bushwah! And you do not even provide a rational argument to support your claim.
…all hail SPUHR!
I've never had one of those. Good stuff?
@@winninginthewind very good stuff, also very expensive.
Can you recommend the best single mount?
@@winninginthewind the price is high, but it’s reflected in the product.
@@winninginthewind another ridiculously awesome piece of kit, if you’re looking for triggers Huber Concepts makes the best I’ve com across.
Half of the time your mouth was moving, there was no sound. I'm not a lip reader.
I had no issues…might be lag in your connection
You might have been too early: if RUclips hasn't finished the PFM on their end it can do weird things like that.