Your methodical problem resolution skills are far superior to most RUclipsrs and many mechanics. Must have been learned in the military or trade school. They will never fail you.
Quick tip. What matters is the voltage to the coil during crank. Not unloaded or no load. This is confirmed by spark during no plugs because the starter has no engine load. If the starter is old and the brushes are worn, you will have huge voltage drop across the starter. These starters are notoriously bad even when new. This sounds like my old 69 super bee. Terrible.
Thank you very much for that! I am not classically trained, just the accumulation of 11 years of my own trial and error, successes, and the years as a kid learning from my uncle. It’s my passion and when you love something you’ll always push harder to be better and know more.
The problem is the starter. It spins very slowly and tries very hard. The starter with enough voltage from battery must spin the shaft like crazy. Your's got a problem. If you say that the shaft spins freely, starter is the problem. I wish you a lot of success bringing this beauty to life, hmm... awakening the beast... 😃 I got the '73 Charger and love to watch every part of this restoration... 😊 Enjoy the work... 😊
Thanks friend! Yea the starter is certainly a problem, I ordered a new one and will be installing it this weekend. Hopefully a more successful video next week to share, thanks for the support 💪🏼🏁
Hope that does it for you. It can be so frustrating Finding these problems .If it turns out that it’s not the starter and the valves are free the only other thing I can think of is the piston pins have snug up (aluminum to steel pin) from moisture from sitting a long time. The motor can still rotate in this condition however it’s too much load for the starter. They will free up but unfortunately, it would have to come apart to do that. After thinking back I believe my 383 had that issue as well. I was ready to throw the engine into the Hudson River!!😂
Hi there I love your car it is a real time capsule. I have been watching the progress and love your enthusiasm. I see your having problems getting it to spin faster. I have a 68 charger and a few years back I pulled an engine from a 68 Newport that had sat for a very long time. My engine did the same thing that yours is doing! It turn out to be a couple of stuck valves! You might want tap each valve to confirm they are free. Hope that does it! Real nice car. Best hobby in the world!!
Thank you for the support my man! It’s certainly my passion and I love sharing it. Think the valves are ok but I haven’t checked the passenger side you never know, the main issue for now is that it isn’t cranking fast enough. Hobby and an addiction, it’s a lifestyle…thank you take care💪🏼
Awesome video, it's awful how frustrating things like this can be, I had a similar issue with my duster and it drove me nuts. I replaced my old starter with a Dakota starter,and my God it was so much better
Thank you for your support my man, glad you were able to resolve you issue with your duster with it! I’ve used Dakota starters on a few different vehicles in the past and had great success and I am holding the new one in my hand right now about to give it a shot today so hopefully within the next week you guys see a successful first fire up video, fingers crossed🤞🏼
I’m here to 2nd the starter. I have the same crusty original car and 383, mine needed a new starter to start reliably after everything else was sorted.
@@FanelliRestorations good luck! Getting a gear reduction starter out with headers is a PITA. Don’t be like me and break a manifold stud off in the head.. not a fun time
I love this, been there 20 times or so in my life with old cars and trucks, what's voltage with starter + ignition loaded? that's why starters aren't always hit or miss, bad starters can often work with overvolting and lesser with an undervolted system.
A valid question and something I thought about after I was out there, to check voltage on the starter and coil during cranking, but after more research, I discovered that voltage doesn’t necessarily mean the current flow is optimal, it still C 12.6 V at the coil but have flow of current reduced. That starter is 54 years old and sat stagnant, unused for 34 so I think it’s time. Thank you tho!
Yes that’s the plan pop the header pop the motor mount bolt raise engine a hair get the old starter out put the new one in, mini starters rock in this case (working around long tubes)
You needed to do a starter draw test. That starter is against the header. Windings are roasted. Un bolt the header and pull the motor mount bolt out. Jack the engine up and use a mini starter. Been theremany time's
You need to pull the number 1 spark plug out stick your finger over the hole roll the motor over until it gets to TDC on the compression stroke pull the cap off and see if the rotor is pointing to number one if not then you need to pull out the dis and pull out the oil gear shaft with a screw driver and put it back in with the slot facing from front to back.
I rotated the engine around and watched valve events but certainly that is a method, I also have a Borescope I could stick in there and see the piston or even look on the balancer for timing marks. Plenty of methods, thanks!
Get an early 1990s (1991-1995 IIRC) Dodge Dakota starter. Way easier fit with headers than the giant OEM one, and it will crank over faster. You may have to take off a little black adapter bracket if of the starter body. Rock Auto has them cheap.
Hey my friend got another suggestion for ya my charger did not like that accel either go with a standard or blaster coil also my 440 has a mini mag starter on it it will serve you very well cause what u dont do to ur car ur car will let u know take care my friend !!!!
Thank you for your recommendations. I appreciate it my man, I already ordered a mini starter to put into it and I’m definitely going to get it to fire likely with that MSD coil.
I have the same car. Mine also had long tube headers on it when I bought it. I removed them and replaced them with the stock HP exhaust manifolds. Didn’t hear you say anything about the gas tank or the fuel. If it’s been sitting for 33 years, I would not use the gas tank in the car. I’d replace the tank and the fuel lines. But first provide the carb with gas from an external source when starting the engine.
You have a B5 blue 1971 Dodge Charger Super Bee? That definitely works, I like the long tube headers. I didn’t point out that I cut the fuel hose in this video, but you can see that there is no fuel line connected to the carburetor so yes, I disconnected the line so I am not pulling up old fuel and introducing it to the engine. You can see in the video that I pour fuel through the carburetor and fill the bowls.
@ I have a GY3 Citron Yella 1971 Charger Super Bee 383 Magnum auto with N96 and the Gull Wing. Though mine is a column shift with bucket seats. I got rid of the long tube headers because they wouldn’t clear the Borgeson power steering box that I installed, to replace the leaking factory power steering box. Mine also came with power disc brakes up front.
I had my 440 do that, turn real slow,replaced the starter ,still did the same thing, ended up pulling the engine apart, only to find the wrist pins were seizing on the pistons , I hope that it’s only the starter ,🤞
That’s what I was concerned about as well, but the engine spins over plenty fine with no spark plugs in it and with the spark plugs in it I am able to turn it over with a ratchet at the same rate that I can turn over my other 383 and 440. It feels the same resistance-wise so it doesn’t seem like there’s an internal lock up. But we’ll know here soon when I put a new starter in! Thank you💪🏼
M&H Electric Fabricators makes authentic reproduction harnesses so you can get rid of all that Accel and GM looking split loom stuff. I think they only sell through that Year One parts house
if that 383 has all stock internals that torker intake doesnt like stock components. the torker intake turns on from 3500-6000 rpm. the stock cam in that form is aprox 1500- 5500 rpm. people always back in the 1970s and early 1980s thought you would have a race car if they just bolted on engine parts and not knowing were those powerband ranges really were. i always tried to help my freinds when i was in school back in the eighties. i was always concerned how everybodies cars wer running. not to be a no itall or a jerk but did you check the starter. that comutator and armature in that starter is probably fried from those junk and i mean junk headers. stock manifolds that ignition is a awesome setup on a smallblock and big block mopars. setting up the curves on mopar distributors can be a pain in the ass!i would put a stock iron intake and a 600 edelbrock manual choke or a 650 avs 2 carb. those cal custom valve covers are not only rare but awesome if painted and the fins sanded and clear coated. i wonder if that bee has 3.55 or 3.23 for gears. if it were stock with 3.55s it would climb some walls. makes you wonder why some of the police forces ran the 383s they caught alot of idiots. put a starter in that jewel .i have a high torque one and it works good in the 440 that i have in my 69 coronet 440. that has a 0.030 os low compression 440 with about 300 hp and runs perfect. hope you get it running and get rid of all of the squirrel bolt on junk. that torker likes those electric feul pumps the plenum or runners are to steep. hope you have another part to this one . that functional hood is worth its weight in gold as every thing else is on these old muscle cars are. i will check out the next one. rpms should be about 600-800 for factory and initial timing 8-10 degrees and max should be 34-38 degrees. compression on the 1971 383 was advertised at 8.75 about 135 lbs per cylinder.make another video on this jewel i will be waiting for it!
Yup, single plane intakes are nfg for a street car, makes absolutely no sense Edelbrock calling them Torkers when they make less torque than a dual plane intake. I had a 69 M code Mach 1 with a single plane Holley intake, and switching to a Buddy Bar C9OX intake really improved drivability
Don’t know for sure but likely stock internals, was told it was rebuilt before parked. Borescope showed they were still flattop stock style pistons, valve train still solid shaft rockers. It’s not a bad Intake but correct it comes alive at higher RPM, which I always found to be a misnomer about them labeling it a “torker” even tho single planes are typically better at higher rpm, the name makes it sound like it would be torquing which is something we usually care more about at lower rpm. Might change it or leave it depends how the car runs when it’s all up again. Guy added the same torker rpm intake on my 67 coronet 383 and been running it for 8 years on the street, still fun. Anyways thanks for the insights!
Like everyone else is saying, bad starter, also id probably order yourself a new reproduction engine harness. i’d be checking out the timing chain also , the factory timing chain has nylon gears and like to eat valves.
Like I said as well yes, the starter is on its way out! Good call on the timing set I learned that with my wife’s grandfather on another 440 we tore down and saw the nylon on the gears. Will keep that in mind 💪🏼
It certainly can, but I have a trunk mounted battery in my 67 coronet and it’s been fine for the last eight years. Drag racers do it as well so it’s only a problem if done improperly.
You definitely were correct! However, there was no way for me to be certain until I ran through my process and my testing. Certainly would have been a beast to replace the starter off the bat to just find out there was nothing wrong with it and all those electrical issues were causing it so I’m glad I did what I did, new starter was ordered today💪🏼
I've been restoring mopars for 30 yrs all of them as soon as I herd the starter the first time I new it was done........but make sure it's not 180 degrees out ...someone mite have dropped it in 180 ...out
I owned a 71 Charger w/440/Auto, fromm 84 thru 09 , Electrical issues? too many to list. First off,,, replace all those crimp terminals,,, strip back 3/16" clesn wire and tin it with quality solder , then crimp , you may want to remove plastic insulator and shrink a 1/2" in most conections. Battery cables should be 2ga. not 4ga,,, the ( Pos + ) is way too long at only 4Ga, also way too much resistance through the body weld points for Ohms surge load, works fine on a handheld meter, but falls on its face with a Vat 40 or similar, so , 2 ga. ( Neg - ) to a bell housing bolt, 4ga ( Neg - ) from same bolt to Brake booster bolt on fire wall ( your guages and controls will work better ) and a fresh 4ga ( Neg - )out front for headlights & signals ( and later a cooling fan ) will help, route the same way, same ground points. Quit wasting time on a soso ign. system. go Mopar orange box , w/factory vacume adv. distubitor , blue streak 10mm solid core 90 deg. wire kit, and a Hi-Fire coil,,,and forget the rest. A one-wire GM alt conversion and a new Amp gauge w/instrument resistor , will make your old wiring work more reliably. When compresssion comes up it steals amps from the coil,,, your trunk battery mount will work fine with some upgrades, I ran a Diehard Group 78 HD side post for the whole time.
Thanks for the tips, this was just to get it running not the ultimate long term setup. Certianly I want to clean a lot up. I got it running tho, trunk battery even with the current cables. Just needed a stronger starter 💪🏼
Your methodical problem resolution skills are far superior to most RUclipsrs and many mechanics. Must have been learned in the military or trade school. They will never fail you.
Quick tip. What matters is the voltage to the coil during crank. Not unloaded or no load. This is confirmed by spark during no plugs because the starter has no engine load. If the starter is old and the brushes are worn, you will have huge voltage drop across the starter. These starters are notoriously bad even when new. This sounds like my old 69 super bee. Terrible.
Thank you very much for that! I am not classically trained, just the accumulation of 11 years of my own trial and error, successes, and the years as a kid learning from my uncle. It’s my passion and when you love something you’ll always push harder to be better and know more.
The problem is the starter. It spins very slowly and tries very hard. The starter with enough voltage from battery must spin the shaft like crazy. Your's got a problem. If you say that the shaft spins freely, starter is the problem. I wish you a lot of success bringing this beauty to life, hmm... awakening the beast... 😃 I got the '73 Charger and love to watch every part of this restoration... 😊 Enjoy the work... 😊
Thanks friend! Yea the starter is certainly a problem, I ordered a new one and will be installing it this weekend. Hopefully a more successful video next week to share, thanks for the support 💪🏼🏁
Hope that does it for you. It can be so frustrating Finding these problems .If it turns out that it’s not the starter and the valves are free the only other thing I can think of is the piston pins have snug up (aluminum to steel pin) from moisture from sitting a long time. The motor can still rotate in this condition however it’s too much load for the starter. They will free up but unfortunately, it would have to come apart to do that. After thinking back I believe my 383 had that issue
as well. I was ready to throw the engine into the Hudson River!!😂
I have the same hood on my 73 charger 340 I'm having my transmission rebuild can't wait to get it back nice video btw
Power bulge Ramcharger hoods rock! Good luck with it I’m sure you’re excited, and thank you
Hi there I love your car it is a real time capsule. I have been watching the progress and love your enthusiasm. I see your having problems getting it to spin faster. I have a 68 charger and a few years back I pulled an engine from a 68 Newport that had sat for a very long time. My engine did the same thing that yours is doing! It turn out to be a couple of stuck valves! You might want tap each valve to confirm they are free. Hope that does it! Real nice car. Best hobby in the world!!
Thank you for the support my man! It’s certainly my passion and I love sharing it. Think the valves are ok but I haven’t checked the passenger side you never know, the main issue for now is that it isn’t cranking fast enough. Hobby and an addiction, it’s a lifestyle…thank you take care💪🏼
Awesome video, it's awful how frustrating things like this can be, I had a similar issue with my duster and it drove me nuts. I replaced my old starter with a Dakota starter,and my God it was so much better
Thank you for your support my man, glad you were able to resolve you issue with your duster with it! I’ve used Dakota starters on a few different vehicles in the past and had great success and I am holding the new one in my hand right now about to give it a shot today so hopefully within the next week you guys see a successful first fire up video, fingers crossed🤞🏼
GOOD. Job 😊😊😊😊
Thank you!
Still great content .....learned so much ....thanks 4 sharing ur wisdom...✌️
I appreciate hearing that, I learned a lot too! It’s always a process and a journey. 💪🏼🏁
I love that body style I had one for my first car
Same here man, my very first MOPAR was a 71 charger SE I had in 2014. Love the fuselage styling
I’m here to 2nd the starter. I have the same crusty original car and 383, mine needed a new starter to start reliably after everything else was sorted.
You know it man, ordered a new one earlier today. Should be the fix to get this old girl firing again after so long!
@@FanelliRestorations good luck! Getting a gear reduction starter out with headers is a PITA. Don’t be like me and break a manifold stud off in the head.. not a fun time
hi good ep you will get it up and running soon ok.
Thank you very much! I am sure I will, hopefully this weekend 🏁
I know a worn out Mopar starter when I hear it!😂
Good times 🎉 a for effort with this one 🎉
Thank you certainly gave it my all😅💪🏼
I love this, been there 20 times or so in my life with old cars and trucks, what's voltage with starter + ignition loaded? that's why starters aren't always hit or miss, bad starters can often work with overvolting and lesser with an undervolted system.
A valid question and something I thought about after I was out there, to check voltage on the starter and coil during cranking, but after more research, I discovered that voltage doesn’t necessarily mean the current flow is optimal, it still C 12.6 V at the coil but have flow of current reduced. That starter is 54 years old and sat stagnant, unused for 34 so I think it’s time. Thank you tho!
Get an early 90's Dakota starter and you'll have a high torque mini starter and will bolt right up
You’re on it, Dakota mini starters rock used many and one is being delivered to local parts store tomorrow!
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I had to remove the header on the 440 in my challenger to get the starter out, 2 hour job, the mini starter went in easier.
Yes that’s the plan pop the header pop the motor mount bolt raise engine a hair get the old starter out put the new one in, mini starters rock in this case (working around long tubes)
Good afternoon,,,,,,,, Yeee Yeee 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Good yeeyee afternoon💪🏼💪🏼
@FanelliRestorations 👋👋😀👍👍
The reluctor gap is adjustable on that Summit distributor, but you should use a brass feeler gauge to measure it.
Correct they are with the adjuster screw, the gap is also angled tho tighter at the bottom vs top and inconsistent
when starting and old motor use new stock ignition parts too may variables added just saying.great car keep it simple .
Give those battery cable connections and power and ground fastener hardware a brush coat of copper anti-seize
Certainly a good option, I usually put dielectric grease, but that works as well!
Needs a new starter mini starter for a 360 from a mid to late 90s Mopar
I ordered one earlier today, that is correct
Electrical gremlins' suck, keep at it brother. love the Bills sweatshirt, I'm from Buffalo but I live in Vegas NOW.
Thanks man! That’s actually a Hills East hoodie from my highschool but I am from NY, lived near Rochester years ago so I appreciate bills territory💪🏼
You needed to do a starter draw test. That starter is against the header. Windings are roasted. Un bolt the header and pull the motor mount bolt out. Jack the engine up and use a mini starter. Been theremany time's
Well if you had brought over your starter load tester I woulda did one! Yes I have as well, that’s the plan my man💪🏼
Make sure to check your fusible links and always keep them.Many times they have saved many of my own cars from burning up.
For sure that’s always good advice
You need to pull the number 1 spark plug out stick your finger over the hole roll the motor over until it gets to TDC on the compression stroke pull the cap off and see if the rotor is pointing to number one if not then you need to pull out the dis and pull out the oil gear shaft with a screw driver and put it back in with the slot facing from front to back.
I rotated the engine around and watched valve events but certainly that is a method, I also have a Borescope I could stick in there and see the piston or even look on the balancer for timing marks. Plenty of methods, thanks!
Get an early 1990s (1991-1995 IIRC) Dodge Dakota starter. Way easier fit with headers than the giant OEM one, and it will crank over faster. You may have to take off a little black adapter bracket if of the starter body. Rock Auto has them cheap.
Already ahead of you, correct! Ordered one today, I’ve used the “Dakota mini starters “a few times in the past and had success. Thank you
Hey my friend got another suggestion for ya my charger did not like that accel either go with a standard or blaster coil also my 440 has a mini mag starter on it it will serve you very well cause what u dont do to ur car ur car will let u know take care my friend !!!!
Thank you for your recommendations. I appreciate it my man, I already ordered a mini starter to put into it and I’m definitely going to get it to fire likely with that MSD coil.
It needs a starter! It only spun fast when it had no plugs because there was no load on the starter
That is correct as I stated at the end of the video!💪🏼
It’s a weak starter, mine did the same then died. She will run!
Yeah man that’s what I found out ultimately, but I know she’ll run!
@ let’s race
@ when it runs
I have the same car. Mine also had long tube headers on it when I bought it. I removed them and replaced them with the stock HP exhaust manifolds. Didn’t hear you say anything about the gas tank or the fuel. If it’s been sitting for 33 years, I would not use the gas tank in the car. I’d replace the tank and the fuel lines. But first provide the carb with gas from an external source when starting the engine.
You have a B5 blue 1971 Dodge Charger Super Bee? That definitely works, I like the long tube headers. I didn’t point out that I cut the fuel hose in this video, but you can see that there is no fuel line connected to the carburetor so yes, I disconnected the line so I am not pulling up old fuel and introducing it to the engine. You can see in the video that I pour fuel through the carburetor and fill the bowls.
@ I have a GY3 Citron Yella 1971 Charger Super Bee 383 Magnum auto with N96 and the Gull Wing. Though mine is a column shift with bucket seats. I got rid of the long tube headers because they wouldn’t clear the Borgeson power steering box that I installed, to replace the leaking factory power steering box. Mine also came with power disc brakes up front.
I also got a new harness from classic industries
I had my 440 do that, turn real slow,replaced the starter ,still did the same thing, ended up pulling the engine apart, only to find the wrist pins were seizing on the pistons , I hope that it’s only the starter ,🤞
That’s what I was concerned about as well, but the engine spins over plenty fine with no spark plugs in it and with the spark plugs in it I am able to turn it over with a ratchet at the same rate that I can turn over my other 383 and 440. It feels the same resistance-wise so it doesn’t seem like there’s an internal lock up. But we’ll know here soon when I put a new starter in! Thank you💪🏼
Love these/ fuel pump seem not to be given any fuel
Thank you! Was hard reliving this day/night editing this but also lots of lessons learned!
M&H Electric Fabricators makes authentic reproduction harnesses so you can get rid of all that Accel and GM looking split loom stuff. I think they only sell through that Year One parts house
Good tip, eventually, I will clean this up right now. I just want to see the old girl fire up!
Change starter high torque starter will turn over fast
if that 383 has all stock internals that torker intake doesnt like stock components. the torker intake turns on from 3500-6000 rpm. the stock cam in that form is aprox 1500- 5500 rpm. people always back in the 1970s and early 1980s thought you would have a race car if they just bolted on engine parts and not knowing were those powerband ranges really were. i always tried to help my freinds when i was in school back in the eighties. i was always concerned how everybodies cars wer running. not to be a no itall or a jerk but did you check the starter. that comutator and armature in that starter is probably fried from those junk and i mean junk headers. stock manifolds that ignition is a awesome setup on a smallblock and big block mopars. setting up the curves on mopar distributors can be a pain in the ass!i would put a stock iron intake and a 600 edelbrock manual choke or a 650 avs 2 carb. those cal custom valve covers are not only rare but awesome if painted and the fins sanded and clear coated. i wonder if that bee has 3.55 or 3.23 for gears. if it were stock with 3.55s it would climb some walls. makes you wonder why some of the police forces ran the 383s they caught alot of idiots. put a starter in that jewel .i have a high torque one and it works good in the 440 that i have in my 69 coronet 440. that has a 0.030 os low compression 440 with about 300 hp and runs perfect. hope you get it running and get rid of all of the squirrel bolt on junk. that torker likes those electric feul pumps the plenum or runners are to steep. hope you have another part to this one . that functional hood is worth its weight in gold as every thing else is on these old muscle cars are. i will check out the next one. rpms should be about 600-800 for factory and initial timing 8-10 degrees and max should be 34-38 degrees. compression on the 1971 383 was advertised at 8.75 about 135 lbs per cylinder.make another video on this jewel i will be waiting for it!
Yup, single plane intakes are nfg for a street car, makes absolutely no sense Edelbrock calling them Torkers when they make less torque than a dual plane intake. I had a 69 M code Mach 1 with a single plane Holley intake, and switching to a Buddy Bar C9OX intake really improved drivability
Don’t know for sure but likely stock internals, was told it was rebuilt before parked. Borescope showed they were still flattop stock style pistons, valve train still solid shaft rockers. It’s not a bad Intake but correct it comes alive at higher RPM, which I always found to be a misnomer about them labeling it a “torker” even tho single planes are typically better at higher rpm, the name makes it sound like it would be torquing which is something we usually care more about at lower rpm. Might change it or leave it depends how the car runs when it’s all up again. Guy added the same torker rpm intake on my 67 coronet 383 and been running it for 8 years on the street, still fun. Anyways thanks for the insights!
I think you need to change out the starter for a new mini starter
Yes that is the plan my man
@@FanelliRestorations Love the car,I can't wait to hear it run.
Like everyone else is saying, bad starter, also id probably order yourself a new reproduction engine harness. i’d be checking out the timing chain also , the factory timing chain has nylon gears and like to eat valves.
Like I said as well yes, the starter is on its way out! Good call on the timing set I learned that with my wife’s grandfather on another 440 we tore down and saw the nylon on the gears. Will keep that in mind 💪🏼
The starter and double check timing
Get rid of the after market tach and use the factory tach
They’re both still present and hooked up🏁
You need a new starter. 👌
Indeed I do
It's your starter
Could the distributer be in wrong sounds like its out of time
I flipped it 180 to be sure and checked firing order so it’s good, just weak starter
@@FanelliRestorations cant wait to hear it running been following
Started is dragging, get a mini starter from summit
It. Ok. Man.
blip the throttle so the gas can fall into the manifold
The butterflies were stuck open on the 1st carb and I did blip with the 2nd carb yes
If the battery is in the trunk that creates a big draw
It certainly can, but I have a trunk mounted battery in my 67 coronet and it’s been fine for the last eight years. Drag racers do it as well so it’s only a problem if done improperly.
Like before the starter is .......JUNKKKKK
You definitely were correct! However, there was no way for me to be certain until I ran through my process and my testing. Certainly would have been a beast to replace the starter off the bat to just find out there was nothing wrong with it and all those electrical issues were causing it so I’m glad I did what I did, new starter was ordered today💪🏼
I've been restoring mopars for 30 yrs all of them as soon as I herd the starter the first time I new it was done........but make sure it's not 180 degrees out ...someone mite have dropped it in 180 ...out
I owned a 71 Charger w/440/Auto, fromm 84 thru 09 , Electrical issues? too many to list. First off,,, replace all those crimp terminals,,, strip back 3/16" clesn wire and tin it with quality solder , then crimp , you may want to remove plastic insulator and shrink a 1/2" in most conections. Battery cables should be 2ga. not 4ga,,, the ( Pos + ) is way too long at only 4Ga, also way too much resistance through the body weld points for Ohms surge load, works fine on a handheld meter, but falls on its face with a Vat 40 or similar, so , 2 ga. ( Neg - ) to a bell housing bolt, 4ga ( Neg - ) from same bolt to Brake booster bolt on fire wall ( your guages and controls will work better ) and a fresh 4ga ( Neg - )out front for headlights & signals ( and later a cooling fan ) will help, route the same way, same ground points. Quit wasting time on a soso ign. system. go Mopar orange box , w/factory vacume adv. distubitor , blue streak 10mm solid core 90 deg. wire kit, and a Hi-Fire coil,,,and forget the rest. A one-wire GM alt conversion and a new Amp gauge w/instrument resistor , will make your old wiring work more reliably. When compresssion comes up it steals amps from the coil,,, your trunk battery mount will work fine with some upgrades, I ran a Diehard Group 78 HD side post for the whole time.
Thanks for the tips, this was just to get it running not the ultimate long term setup. Certianly I want to clean a lot up. I got it running tho, trunk battery even with the current cables. Just needed a stronger starter 💪🏼
Starter
Coil
It was just the starter! Check the latest video💪🏼
I so tired of all these stupid comercials trying to sell me something r about walmart what they don't want you to know 🇺🇲
I didn’t realize I was pushing Walmart product!!
Bad starter
Correct
Times. Off
Too much talking not enough working
Next time come help with your wisdom I will be able to work faster!
too much timing
Starter
Starter
Correct