The reason why your solder went away is that the tweezers work as a heat sink and cooled down the metal closest to you. To prevent that, heat the tweezers for a while first, then start soldering 🙂 If you ever have to solder after you've set the stone again, you can place a glass or metal tray filled with water on the soldering area and submerge the stone to keep it cold. Think you're doing great 😊
First one done, I think you did well Roy, I look forward to 5 years when you do a review of how far you’ve come and you pull this back out at laugh at yourself. Well at least that’s what I did when I pulled out my first opal cab the other day, I was so proud of it at the time
Well hopefully there is rapid progress. Its so stressful trying to work on something new while on camera. I'll do some off camera for sure. This video the lens got in the way a few times trying to get the shot.
My dude that what I call having fun and learning something Wocky is a style now 😂 but I believe people refer to it as character or personality. Keep it up
what flux do you use ? i have tried 2 , generise silver flux on amazon and some AuFLux with pretty crusty results , also my titanium pick just seems to melt , i heard tungsten is better as you can melt the solder onto the pick and place it allot easier , still totally new to it but love it when you see the end result. keep posting your making videos i really like them
That bottle of handy flux in this video is what I have been using mostly but I dont like it. I'm going to get one of those borax cone and dishes. Powdered borax I feel works better than this handy flux stuff. Just easier to handle and mix.
Hay you did extremely well for your first go. Don't sell yourself short. A quick question, it's off track but I seen somewhere that you can't make cabchons with a slanted flat lap machine, is this true? Something about the measurements of the dome not being right or it's not as good as making one with a cab-king.
I see comments like that all the time but its not true just a skill issue in the commenter. You can cab with a flat lap for sure you just need to practice. Hi-Tech literally call theirs a "slant cabber".
@RoysRocks Yep thanks for that. I feel extremely laxed out now. I was starting to stress. Mine is a Hi Tech slant cab. I've near mastered proper cabs with it. Just a little more practice and I'll be there 😁
@@elishadoyle8191if you go to opal mills channel, he only uses a flatlap if I remember right 🙂 If you think about it, on a cabber you'll put your stone up against a surfice that want to grind the opposite shape of what you want on a cab. The only reason they are called cabbers is that you can't do facets on them as the surface will be concave, you need a flat lap for them. On the other hand, a flatlap is not necsesary to make a cab so it's more convenient to have all grits needed lined up ready for use. Shapewice a flatlap can only give you a flat or conveks shape while a cabber can also leave concave dips, so in other words cabber is even harder to master 🤷♀️
Nice bit of surgery! You know, even if the flux doesn’t cooperate, you still get to play with fire. Net plus! Given my questionable soldering skills, I rotate the bail 90 degrees, so the skinny edge faces forward. Think backwards 9 where the stick gets soldered to the pendant and necklace goes through loop. Makes any wonkiness less obvious, haha.
If I didnt have a stone set in it already I would have positioned it sideways and soldered it like the bezel wall and placed it on top of the pallion. Cant run away then.
Love you sharing all the good bad and ugly parts of silversmithing 😊
Mostly bad and ugly for now. Hopefully I get it all clickin. Lessons in person should help a lot so need to find time for that.
The reason why your solder went away is that the tweezers work as a heat sink and cooled down the metal closest to you. To prevent that, heat the tweezers for a while first, then start soldering 🙂
If you ever have to solder after you've set the stone again, you can place a glass or metal tray filled with water on the soldering area and submerge the stone to keep it cold.
Think you're doing great 😊
First one done, I think you did well Roy, I look forward to 5 years when you do a review of how far you’ve come and you pull this back out at laugh at yourself. Well at least that’s what I did when I pulled out my first opal cab the other day, I was so proud of it at the time
Oh I'm sure I'll just be shaking my head at the screen reviewing this one.
Great job, the more you do the better you will get at it.
Yeah it is super fun. Like the very early days of opal cutting you learn soo much so quickly.
Love learning new things.
That was awesome. I enjoy watching your progress.
Well hopefully there is rapid progress. Its so stressful trying to work on something new while on camera.
I'll do some off camera for sure. This video the lens got in the way a few times trying to get the shot.
@ sure can take the fun out of something if you get stressed doing it.
Nice one
Thanks was a fun experiment with scrap.
My dude that what I call having fun and learning something Wocky is a style now 😂 but I believe people refer to it as character or personality. Keep it up
Haha wonky as a baby learning to walk. I'm just a really old baby stumbling along but after a few years I'll be walking 100%.
what flux do you use ? i have tried 2 , generise silver flux on amazon and some AuFLux with pretty crusty results , also my titanium pick just seems to melt , i heard tungsten is better as you can melt the solder onto the pick and place it allot easier , still totally new to it but love it when you see the end result. keep posting your making videos i really like them
That bottle of handy flux in this video is what I have been using mostly but I dont like it.
I'm going to get one of those borax cone and dishes. Powdered borax I feel works better than this handy flux stuff. Just easier to handle and mix.
Hay you did extremely well for your first go. Don't sell yourself short. A quick question, it's off track but I seen somewhere that you can't make cabchons with a slanted flat lap machine, is this true? Something about the measurements of the dome not being right or it's not as good as making one with a cab-king.
I see comments like that all the time but its not true just a skill issue in the commenter. You can cab with a flat lap for sure you just need to practice.
Hi-Tech literally call theirs a "slant cabber".
@RoysRocks Yep thanks for that. I feel extremely laxed out now. I was starting to stress. Mine is a Hi Tech slant cab. I've near mastered proper cabs with it. Just a little more practice and I'll be there 😁
@@elishadoyle8191if you go to opal mills channel, he only uses a flatlap if I remember right 🙂
If you think about it, on a cabber you'll put your stone up against a surfice that want to grind the opposite shape of what you want on a cab. The only reason they are called cabbers is that you can't do facets on them as the surface will be concave, you need a flat lap for them.
On the other hand, a flatlap is not necsesary to make a cab so it's more convenient to have all grits needed lined up ready for use. Shapewice a flatlap can only give you a flat or conveks shape while a cabber can also leave concave dips, so in other words cabber is even harder to master 🤷♀️
Nice bit of surgery!
You know, even if the flux doesn’t cooperate, you still get to play with fire. Net plus!
Given my questionable soldering skills, I rotate the bail 90 degrees, so the skinny edge faces forward.
Think backwards 9 where the stick gets soldered to the pendant and necklace goes through loop.
Makes any wonkiness less obvious, haha.
If I didnt have a stone set in it already I would have positioned it sideways and soldered it like the bezel wall and placed it on top of the pallion. Cant run away then.