Harry is becoming quite the star! Very endearing, and so good to see you enjoying him (her) so much. My 5c - Polish those rims, clean with acetone and apply ceramic coat. They won't tarnish and brake dust just rinses off.
If you modify the seat frame front hinge so it has a removable pin(s) it would be removable as a ‘quick release’ if you need bigger items in the back or want to track without the seat or use the passenger space for storage 👍
Hey Jeff, wheel and tyre cleaner is meant for painted wheels and not aluminium, either natural or anodized, as it has a caustic base and eats away at aluminium and aluminium oxide, whether it be on raw or anodised aluminium. Anodizing is stupidly hard (think just less than diamond hard), so your attempts at sanding and polishing probably didn't take that off, but merely shined up the aluminium where the anodizing has been eaten away, and as the aluminium goes dull it will show up again. Best thing to do right now is to take the wheels to a reputable anodizing shop and have them re-anodized, as even clearcoat will not stick to raw aluminium for long You will have a choice of bright anodizing, which has a chrome like finish, or normal which has a satin finish. They will incidentally use a caustic solution to remove what remains. You are at least lucky in that Fuchs are forged and not cast, so they can actually be re-anodized without much fuss.
If you’re concerned about them tarnishing, spray them with a suitable clear coat. Use 1500, 2000, 3000 grit wet and dry then polish them. They’ll be better than new.
Once every 2 years maybe. I was a truck driver for years and they are covered in polished aluminium. You really don't need to do it that often unless you want a mirror finish
Hi Jeff. That Suchs about your Fuchs.. Have an idea. Painting the wheel rims silver might not be a bad idea if your going to drive the Porsche regularly & used wheel cleaners .. I suggest having a look at *titanium silver* paint. It's used on all modern car alloys and looks like a cross between base silver & chrome... Paint the rims with titanium silver, clear coat it. Then completely clean the whole rim inside and out and use ceramic coating on the whole rim... With the titanium silver, having an almost polished look, will contrast with the dull silver in the centre & will look like a dull polished aluminum finish... ..from a distance. .. Love Fuchs alloys most iconic Porsche wheels IMO. Even more so than telephone dial. Porsche rims.... .. That engine sounds sweet ..👍
I bet your heart sunk when you saw the wheels after the wash. I think that they look just right with polished lips! What people use to protect polished wheel lips here in the nordics is just regular wax or ceramic coating for longer lasting finish. I bet Harry does not see really harsh weather (think road salt for several months) so the lips should stay just fine for a season with just one application. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
The anodizing is basically a sort of a hardened corrosion layer that protects the aluminium underneath. To fix that you have to remove(sand) the anodized layer off, polish the aluminium and then you can re-anodize them. They'll look exactly like before or you can even choose to anodize them in a particular color if you want. Or you could just polish them and then put a transparent powder coat over it for protection. And also with this you can tint the transparent powder coat with any color if you want.
The Fuchs on my '78 were specced as polished aluminium rims - not anodised -- the black centres are anodised and remain shiny. Mainly because they haven't felt the salty roads and acid rain of the Northern hemisphere (The reason Porsche recommended Vaseline on the anodised bits) Of course the polished rims will become pitted and and stained by brake dust and road grime. But the surface being soft and easily repolished to a mirror finish if you feel the need with autosol or similar. I do mine once or twice a year. Coated rims will not enjoy harsh cleaners , and the damage requires a lot of remedying with the added $ cost.
Anodising doesn't conduct electricity whereas bare aluminium will so measuring resistance between 2 points on the wheel may give some idea how much anodising is left not sure how sensitive it is though, so sorry may not be too useful.
Hi Jeff. I had a similar problem a few years ago, after a lot of head scratching, I found that if I isolated the motor, on nylon mounts, everything worked fine. This was a LHD to RHD conversion and the RHD motor must have had some different internals even though though the plugs were the same. Might help.
Hi Jeff. I'm pretty late with this reply, but found this video particularly intriguing. I think that the fact that we know a factory Fuchs wheel from the period had an anodized surface really has no bearing on the 17" replica wheels that are on your car. I would in fact expect that your wheels have no anodizing at all, based on the gloss of the finish and the amount of metal that came off while buffing. The anodizing of polished aluminum usually imparts a slight flattening effect, and also shows a rainbow hue in sunlight. The etching that you got from your wheel cleaner was likely because the wheels were simply bare aluminum. I also thought that I would share my thoughts on your tilting seat bracket. The agony of not being able to get into the rear of the car is real (!), but those tilt brackets are seriously unsafe for a track-driven car. Even a seat slider is a compromise from a safety standpoint, and now you have added a secondary latch system. Yes, I know that your seatbelts will be pulling backwards, but even the lateral support of that setup in a rollover crash would worry me. And we want you to be safe so we can watch more of your great videos. :-)
Somebody has probably already said this in the comments. Anodizing is just an aluminum oxide, in fact sapphire. Both it and aluminum can be etched by things with a basic ph, like lye. Many detergents and degreasers, for example Simple Green, are basic and will both etch aluminum and anodizing. Actually common way to strip anodizing is lye. Just metal polish may not have actually removed the anodizing. You might have made it thinner. You're correct you will know later where the anodizing has rubbed through because it will oxidize. If it's unacceptable it's not uncommon to strip the anodizing, polish it, and then paint it with a standard 2K clear. In the future however just be careful with which cleaners you use on aluminum. Neutral pH or acid pH are acceptable. And as you've pointed out good old soap and water are really pretty much the best. The car looks fantastic. Please post a pure sound video. A nice long one.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the wheels tarnishing Jeff, I polished a set of globes for my Fiat Spider about 8 years ago and they still look good. They're not as shinny as when first polished but have just dulled to a nice silver finish, I've never had "white rust" form on them
It’s disappointing that wiper’ s issue. In fact, thanks to one of your previous videos on it, I fixed mine, and it was a problem on the switch. I repaired it in half hour and so I didn’t have to dismantle the whole system.
Jeff, I had similar problems with my wipers following hitting a speed hump too hard; each time I put them on the fuse blew. Tried another column switch with no success but didn't try another motor. I did fix it but cannot be sure how BUT my theory is this. 911s of that era used thin strips of flexible metal welded to the shell to hold the wiring harnesses. These should be insulated but overtime the insulation often went missing meaning that sharp corners and edges were exposed. I think on my car, following the heavy jolt, one of these sharp points punctured the wiring and shorted it to earth, causing the fuse to blow. I checked all the strips, replaced the insulation where needed and the fault disappeared. Might be worth checking on your car. Can you post details of the fault-finding tool you featured, please? Cheers
If it’s like wiper motors I’ve taken apart, it will have moving contacts inside that run on tracks making and breaking the circuit to control park position etc, so is it moving slightly to a position where it shorts?
if the lips shined with polish, I doubt if the lips were anodised in the first place. Since youre already at this point, might as well shine them up properly and re polish them once a year or something. The finish should stay good for upto a year usually. Ceramic coat doesnt work so well on bare metal. I actually have ceramic coated my exhaust manifold heatsheild and its going strong after a year but its because it rarely sees any soap or scrubbing - which wont be the case with your wheels
Yea, I think Jeff´s got it wrong with his Anodizing, theres no way he would have polished through it with normal metal polish. Also its probably the reason Wheel cleaner messed up the finish in the first place.
Have you tried not pushing the seat forward before you tilt it? I reckon you will get more of a gap as the head rest will hit the roof later. Worth go?
what about clear powder coating? seems like it can go on bare aluminium. the only issue i foresee is the heat from the bake. if the paint/coating on the rest of the wheels can withstand it. but you could have the whole wheel powder coated in the same colour scheme.
I've had many wheels powder coated and the heat of the brakes never gets hot enough to damage the finish. Powder coating is baked in an oven. Brake temps wouldn't get high enough for long enough to do any damage. This isn't a bad idea at all.
First! (Couldn't resist, never happened before). That tilting seat mount will be a boon, almost makes Harry a tourer! Could you use clear-coat of some kind on the wheel rims?
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Sounds expensive? What I meant about a satin finish was maybe it would 'key' the ally for a hard clear-coat. But like I said, no idea what I'm talking about, and I do realise that wheels need a much tougher finish than the bodywork.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff I've always used adhesion promoter and not had any issues, but mileage varies between folks. There's always powdercoat, a good shop can do the centers and barrels all in one. Perhaps Barrel Brothers?
@@Expatris I have used that sort of thing which works great until you get the first chip and then it all starts to peel off in chunks. There are a couple of other options I am looking at though ;)
Harry is becoming quite the star! Very endearing, and so good to see you enjoying him (her) so much. My 5c - Polish those rims, clean with acetone and apply ceramic coat. They won't tarnish and brake dust just rinses off.
If you modify the seat frame front hinge so it has a removable pin(s) it would be removable as a ‘quick release’ if you need bigger items in the back or want to track without the seat or use the passenger space for storage 👍
Hey Jeff, wheel and tyre cleaner is meant for painted wheels and not aluminium, either natural or anodized, as it has a caustic base and eats away at aluminium and aluminium oxide, whether it be on raw or anodised aluminium. Anodizing is stupidly hard (think just less than diamond hard), so your attempts at sanding and polishing probably didn't take that off, but merely shined up the aluminium where the anodizing has been eaten away, and as the aluminium goes dull it will show up again. Best thing to do right now is to take the wheels to a reputable anodizing shop and have them re-anodized, as even clearcoat will not stick to raw aluminium for long You will have a choice of bright anodizing, which has a chrome like finish, or normal which has a satin finish. They will incidentally use a caustic solution to remove what remains. You are at least lucky in that Fuchs are forged and not cast, so they can actually be re-anodized without much fuss.
Love the detail work. It's one thing to get a car up and running, and it's another thing entirely to make it a pleasure to drive and live with.
If you’re concerned about them tarnishing, spray them with a suitable clear coat. Use 1500, 2000, 3000 grit wet and dry then polish them. They’ll be better than new.
Clear won't stick ;)
Glad those burn marks look better, thought OH NO 😲 when you posted on Instagram!!
Please don’t paint the rims Jeff, they look so good bare aluminium….just polish them once a month 🙂
After you polish aluminum, apply automotive wax to keep them shiny longer.
Once every 2 years maybe.
I was a truck driver for years and they are covered in polished aluminium. You really don't need to do it that often unless you want a mirror finish
Those seat tilts are a great idea. I might look at getting one for the passengers side as well
Barrel brothers in Sydney could probably re anodize them mate OR you could do a home anodizing kit?
I still don’t understand why your video title wasn’t, “How to Fuch your Fuchs!” Another good vid mate.
Hi Jeff.
That Suchs about your Fuchs..
Have an idea.
Painting the wheel rims silver might not be a bad idea if your going to drive the Porsche regularly & used wheel cleaners
..
I suggest having a look at
*titanium silver* paint.
It's used on all modern car alloys and looks like a cross between base silver & chrome...
Paint the rims with titanium silver, clear coat it.
Then completely clean the whole rim inside and out and use ceramic coating on the whole rim...
With the titanium silver, having an almost polished look, will contrast with the dull silver in the centre & will look like a dull polished aluminum finish... ..from a distance.
..
Love Fuchs alloys most iconic Porsche wheels IMO.
Even more so than telephone dial. Porsche rims....
..
That engine sounds sweet ..👍
Guillermo de Orange....Harry or Willy ???? The music of your videos reminds me to "Midnight Oil", lovely.
I bet your heart sunk when you saw the wheels after the wash. I think that they look just right with polished lips! What people use to protect polished wheel lips here in the nordics is just regular wax or ceramic coating for longer lasting finish. I bet Harry does not see really harsh weather (think road salt for several months) so the lips should stay just fine for a season with just one application. Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
Interesting episode as usual, my heart sank with the wheels, what a bugger .
Same problem on my anno wheels, I polished an 2k flat clear
The anodizing is basically a sort of a hardened corrosion layer that protects the aluminium underneath. To fix that you have to remove(sand) the anodized layer off, polish the aluminium and then you can re-anodize them. They'll look exactly like before or you can even choose to anodize them in a particular color if you want. Or you could just polish them and then put a transparent powder coat over it for protection. And also with this you can tint the transparent powder coat with any color if you want.
The Fuchs on my '78 were specced as polished aluminium rims - not anodised -- the black centres are anodised and remain shiny. Mainly because they haven't felt the salty roads and acid rain of the Northern hemisphere (The reason Porsche recommended Vaseline on the anodised bits)
Of course the polished rims will become pitted and and stained by brake dust and road grime. But the surface being soft and easily repolished to a mirror finish if you feel the need with autosol or similar. I do mine once or twice a year.
Coated rims will not enjoy harsh cleaners , and the damage requires a lot of remedying with the added $ cost.
Anodising doesn't conduct electricity whereas bare aluminium will so measuring resistance between 2 points on the wheel may give some idea how much anodising is left not sure how sensitive it is though, so sorry may not be too useful.
Hi Jeff. I had a similar problem a few years ago, after a lot of head scratching, I found that if I isolated the motor, on nylon mounts, everything worked fine. This was a LHD to RHD conversion and the RHD motor must have had some different internals even though though the plugs were the same. Might help.
I will give a full update later but I have finally figured it out and it was fixed with a squirt of WD40!!!
Awesome 👍🏽👍🏻 good you got something sorted 😀👍🏽
Maybe check out the Bowdens range of cleaners next time? I've been using them for over a decade and they are awesome. Just a thought.
Hi Jeff. I'm pretty late with this reply, but found this video particularly intriguing. I think that the fact that we know a factory Fuchs wheel from the period had an anodized surface really has no bearing on the 17" replica wheels that are on your car. I would in fact expect that your wheels have no anodizing at all, based on the gloss of the finish and the amount of metal that came off while buffing. The anodizing of polished aluminum usually imparts a slight flattening effect, and also shows a rainbow hue in sunlight. The etching that you got from your wheel cleaner was likely because the wheels were simply bare aluminum. I also thought that I would share my thoughts on your tilting seat bracket. The agony of not being able to get into the rear of the car is real (!), but those tilt brackets are seriously unsafe for a track-driven car. Even a seat slider is a compromise from a safety standpoint, and now you have added a secondary latch system. Yes, I know that your seatbelts will be pulling backwards, but even the lateral support of that setup in a rollover crash would worry me. And we want you to be safe so we can watch more of your great videos. :-)
Somebody has probably already said this in the comments. Anodizing is just an aluminum oxide, in fact sapphire. Both it and aluminum can be etched by things with a basic ph, like lye. Many detergents and degreasers, for example Simple Green, are basic and will both etch aluminum and anodizing. Actually common way to strip anodizing is lye. Just metal polish may not have actually removed the anodizing. You might have made it thinner. You're correct you will know later where the anodizing has rubbed through because it will oxidize. If it's unacceptable it's not uncommon to strip the anodizing, polish it, and then paint it with a standard 2K clear.
In the future however just be careful with which cleaners you use on aluminum. Neutral pH or acid pH are acceptable. And as you've pointed out good old soap and water are really pretty much the best.
The car looks fantastic. Please post a pure sound video. A nice long one.
Pure sound vid was posted about a month ago ;)
I wouldn't be too concerned about the wheels tarnishing Jeff, I polished a set of globes for my Fiat Spider about 8 years ago and they still look good. They're not as shinny as when first polished but have just dulled to a nice silver finish, I've never had "white rust" form on them
What about a clear coat acrylic paint over the wheels to stop them dulling. Have fun.
Clear coat doesn’t stick to polished aluminum, it will peel almost immediately. They would need to be brushed for it to not peel.
Wheels look good. Definitely good enough for a non-show car. Good job.
It’s disappointing that wiper’ s issue. In fact, thanks to one of your previous videos on it, I fixed mine, and it was a problem on the switch. I repaired it in half hour and so I didn’t have to dismantle the whole system.
I have fixed it and it ended up being simpler than I thought ;)
Is something shorting when you mount the switch/motor back in the car? If it works when removed maybe there’s something being pinched etc
A very perfect Update about the Beautyfull Harry ❤️👍❤️
Forgive my ignorance, but after a light sand or polish could you spray with a clear to stop oxidation?
Optima used to be a great battery but lately they’ve been average, we have over 10 piled up at work for warranty
Practice makes perfect! I seem to redo thinks until get it correct
Oven cleaning mouse/gel is fantastic at removing anodising before polishing
I polished my Fuchs years ago, once a year is fine for keeping them shiney.
Jeff, I had similar problems with my wipers following hitting a speed hump too hard; each time I put them on the fuse blew. Tried another column switch with no success but didn't try another motor. I did fix it but cannot be sure how BUT my theory is this. 911s of that era used thin strips of flexible metal welded to the shell to hold the wiring harnesses. These should be insulated but overtime the insulation often went missing meaning that sharp corners and edges were exposed. I think on my car, following the heavy jolt, one of these sharp points punctured the wiring and shorted it to earth, causing the fuse to blow. I checked all the strips, replaced the insulation where needed and the fault disappeared. Might be worth checking on your car.
Can you post details of the fault-finding tool you featured, please?
Cheers
Ended up not being wiring, something much simpler.
Link in the description ;)
btw your car sounds really good.
Can you clear coat wheels?
Hey what about if you tilt sideways with open door. That will give you all the space you have behind to storage biggest things
I know what you are saying but I don't think it would give as much access
Fuchs Wheels - I sympathise having had a similar experience! Headache/exasperating.
Like the seat tilt, I've been looking at the same so good to see one being handled by a human.
If it’s like wiper motors I’ve taken apart, it will have moving contacts inside that run on tracks making and breaking the circuit to control park position etc, so is it moving slightly to a position where it shorts?
I have now found the problem and it is even simpler than that... grrr ;)
if the lips shined with polish, I doubt if the lips were anodised in the first place. Since youre already at this point, might as well shine them up properly and re polish them once a year or something. The finish should stay good for upto a year usually. Ceramic coat doesnt work so well on bare metal. I actually have ceramic coated my exhaust manifold heatsheild and its going strong after a year but its because it rarely sees any soap or scrubbing - which wont be the case with your wheels
Yea, I think Jeff´s got it wrong with his Anodizing, theres no way he would have polished through it with normal metal polish. Also its probably the reason Wheel cleaner messed up the finish in the first place.
The wheel cleaner contained acid, as most do, and that removes anodizing.
@@mawe42 But you´d have to cook them in it to remove all the anodizung.
@@h-j.k.8971 No, Owen cleaner is the usual method to remove anodizing.
Spray on let sit and 'wipe off". Very easy to destroy.
@@mawe42 Wellwell, I could use some of that stuff here, were stuck with drain cleaner.
Bead Blast plus Clearcoat?
Might come out to see you when you come to wodonga.
Would be nice to see harry in The flesh.
HI JEFF
Clear powdercoat?
Have you tried not pushing the seat forward before you tilt it? I reckon you will get more of a gap as the head rest will hit the roof later. Worth go?
Yeah, it doesn't make enough of a difference.
what about clear powder coating? seems like it can go on bare aluminium. the only issue i foresee is the heat from the bake. if the paint/coating on the rest of the wheels can withstand it. but you could have the whole wheel powder coated in the same colour scheme.
I've had many wheels powder coated and the heat of the brakes never gets hot enough to damage the finish. Powder coating is baked in an oven. Brake temps wouldn't get high enough for long enough to do any damage. This isn't a bad idea at all.
@@glensgraphix i meant the heat of the oven with the existing paint/finish
Perhaps a couple of coats of clear might help protect the sheen
hey big guy, your background music..I know the song from somewhere. An 80's song but I just can't remember the name of it. What it is?
It was made by a mate of mine lukelukess.com
Yeah i made a similar mistake... pressure washed my anondized lips and now theres a single line through them....
Polish with “Flitz” or get the wheels professionally finished
Why not get the rims re-anodised?
Give Barrel Brothers a ring if you dicide to do something with those wheels. I bet they can fix them.
First! (Couldn't resist, never happened before). That tilting seat mount will be a boon, almost makes Harry a tourer! Could you use clear-coat of some kind on the wheel rims?
Unfortunately clear coat won't stick to polished metal.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff How about a satin, kinda semi-matt finish, maybe with wire wool? (Don't know what I'm talking about, just throwing it out there).
@@EliteRock One suggestion was to ceramic coat them, which won't last forever but it is not a bad idea.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Sounds expensive? What I meant about a satin finish was maybe it would 'key' the ally for a hard clear-coat. But like I said, no idea what I'm talking about, and I do realise that wheels need a much tougher finish than the bodywork.
@@HomeBuiltByJeff clear powder coating should.
Could polish and clear coat your wheels.
Sharkhide great protectant of raw metals, of all kinds..
Ah, thanks for the reminder. I remember watching a Fab Forums vid on it a few years ago. That is the stuff. I just need to see if I can get it in Aus.
I like the optima battery because they are a military battery and can take a 50 cal and still keep on going to get the soldiers out of trouble
They clearly don't have them in the Russian military then ;
@@paultucker4923 usa military not putass country lol
Is that true..
How or why are they military spec?
@@stuartd9741 do your research on it and you shell find out about it as a1 battery pro told me and read up about them
Look pretty business like polished..
20 minutos de rollazo
Automotive clearcoat protects bare aluminium ;) Just a thought....
Except they don't stick to polished metal ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff
I've always used adhesion promoter and not had any issues, but mileage varies between folks.
There's always powdercoat, a good shop can do the centers and barrels all in one.
Perhaps Barrel Brothers?
@@Expatris I have used that sort of thing which works great until you get the first chip and then it all starts to peel off in chunks. There are a couple of other options I am looking at though ;)
How dare you ruin my wheels?? Yes. You heard me right..... 😉😉 My last name is actually Fuchs...... 😁
🥰👌
Alternate title - “How to Fuchs Up Your Wheels”
I actually considered Totally Fuched ;)
🍺👏👍🏻
It would not cost that much to have the wheels professionally restored and clear coated.
Spray some fuel resistant clear coat on the Wheels to prevent oxidisation.
Clear coat doesn't stick to polished metal unfortunately :(
No offence, that fusebox is a mess 😁
Maybe one day i will replace the wiring harness, but not today ;)
3rd time's the charm
chrome your wheels its so much better
Rust...?
There are anodizing services around. Don't paint the rims. What a horrible, horrible idea.
Don´t get obsessive with your front wheels, you are a racer not a catwalk model. Let this "Fuchs" wheels be like they are....."80´s" and dirty.
Porches suck! Back onto alfarrari
Mr muscle will remove the ano
Thousands of lifetime projects with woodglut plans.