You sir have the patients of Job. I may replace the subwoofer with a Kicker 6.75 but i think the rest of the stereo sounds good. I could never have the patients to do all of that, Hat's off to you.👏🎬
that is a really good idea about putting a bigger sub in the current enclosure... you will have to cut the hole a bit bigger to make it fit but it will be worth it. consider a really small amp for it too maybe. you will get a lot more punch! Cheers!
I agree! I purchased the 10” kicker sub to install but I believe that will be as far as I go on the stereo. But if I choose not to and upgrade. I thank you for the knowledge and know how to get it done.
Awesome video, I just bought a 2024 Ford Ranger Lariat. The stereo sound is great, would just like some more quality volume. Any suggestions? TIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
congrats on the awesome new truck. If you just want a bit more sound, i would do a kicker hideaway sub and maybe an inline amplifier, and if you are doing that, you might as well replace the speakers too in my opinion. I did all of that for around $800 and i'm glad i did. Cheers.
That’s awesome! I just have a couple 5 gallon gas cans I throw in the bed but a bigger tank would be so convenient! I’ll have to keep an eye out for that here in the states
Hey there, great video and write up man! I am trying to add a sub to a 2024 Ford Ranger XLT (non-B&O). I just need to figure out what the colors are for the rear left and right speakers to splice into for the sub. But I'm running into the same problem you had and cannot find the wiring diagrams online. Do you know what colors I'm looking for?
Dude, the wiring makes NO SENSE, in these trucks. The wire inside the door going to the speakers doesn’t match the wiring going into the plugs in the B pillar. It is super frustrating. I honestly don’t have a good answer for you on colors of wires as they are all going to be different especially with the different system. The 19 speaker system uses two separate amplifiers. I can take a look at mine today and tell you the colors of my rear speaker wires but I don’t think it will match up on a non 10 speaker system unfortunately
On a whole other topic, have you booked your appointment to head out for Raptor Assault school yet. I just placed mine and got my confirmation back already, booked my lodging also. So excited for this trip can’t wait.
I did get my confirmation. I’m be there 9-10 July! It’s gonna be rad. I haven’t booked my hotel yet. I’m going to drive out from Virginia because I have a 50 mile running race in Leadville 4 days earlier that I will already be out that way for. I can’t wait
Cool! Very Cool! End of September is my date, I also am driving my Raptor out there from Wisconsin. The wife and I are going to drive up to Yellowstone after my class and spend a couple days there and then hit Mt Rushmore on the way home. Taking a week and half vacation time for this.
For sure. I used to go snowmobiling in Yellowstone every February growing up, never been there when it wasn’t frozen over but from the pictures I have seen you won’t be disappointed in sept/october
All of the chimes and warnings still come through all the speakers, but they are a bit louder than before since the volume of the warning/chime tones were set and I amplified the signal
did you wire your sub after the factory amp or before it? wouldnt it be better to wire it from the wires coming into the factory amp so the signal is cleaner? cheers
the signal coming into the factory amp comes over a micro USB cable... the amplifier also acts as a signal processor so i had to pull the signal as high level inputs since there is no standard 5 volt inputs that i am used to finding from old school head units.
The amp is turned on from the high level inputs from the factory sub, no signal wire was run on my install and the amp only turns on when it sees a signal from the high levels. It is made for that exact use case and when you do that the remote in actually becomes a remote out for future upgrades
You will either need an Amp capable of accepting high level input so it can use that signal as the signal to power on or you could pull accessory power from a fuse but I would steer clear of that. They may make a converter that you can put high level inputs into that will send the signal power but I’ve never gone down that road.
Did you run speaker wire to each speaker or were you able to connect the speaker wires from the harness to go to the Kicker Key? I'm debating on doing this upgrade, but hoping I can tap into the wiring harness from B&O amp to get speaker output to Kicker Key. And which wires did you tap into for the high level to the Kicker?
I was able to reuse all of the wires from the vehicles wiring harness to get the door speakers wired up but i did have to run wires directly to the tweeters in the A Pillars because those run off a different amplifier and i wasn't able to find those wires... but running that was easy because they didn't have to go through any seals to the doors or anything. The Kicker Key is awesome, i cant believe how much more power that puts out than the stock system. I ended up completely taking the center channel out (disconnected it but the speaker is still sitting there) Hope that helps.
I just installed my Kicker hideaway 10, which is an upgrade from the factory sub. It only took me about 2 hours since I learned from your mistakes...the grease going through the firewall grommet really worked well on the first attempt. My kicker key arrived today & will tackle it next, but I couldn't remember which wires you used for the high level input. I know I need to cut off the RCA ends to wire them for high level input, but which color wires do I use from the factory amp?
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You sir have the patients of Job. I may replace the subwoofer with a Kicker 6.75 but i think the rest of the stereo sounds good. I could never have the patients to do all of that, Hat's off to you.👏🎬
that is a really good idea about putting a bigger sub in the current enclosure... you will have to cut the hole a bit bigger to make it fit but it will be worth it. consider a really small amp for it too maybe. you will get a lot more punch! Cheers!
I agree! I purchased the 10” kicker sub to install but I believe that will be as far as I go on the stereo. But if I choose not to and upgrade. I thank you for the knowledge and know how to get it done.
Right on! Any upgrade is fun in my opinion. I could have lived with the stock system for a while but I love to tinker so I just went for it haha
Awesome video, I just bought a 2024 Ford Ranger Lariat. The stereo sound is great, would just like some more quality volume. Any suggestions? TIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
congrats on the awesome new truck. If you just want a bit more sound, i would do a kicker hideaway sub and maybe an inline amplifier, and if you are doing that, you might as well replace the speakers too in my opinion. I did all of that for around $800 and i'm glad i did. Cheers.
Hey, Saw some guys in Australia putting in a 140 liter fuel tank. Not sure if it is available here, yet, but that would be great for over-landing.
That’s awesome! I just have a couple 5 gallon gas cans I throw in the bed but a bigger tank would be so convenient! I’ll have to keep an eye out for that here in the states
Hey there, great video and write up man! I am trying to add a sub to a 2024 Ford Ranger XLT (non-B&O). I just need to figure out what the colors are for the rear left and right speakers to splice into for the sub. But I'm running into the same problem you had and cannot find the wiring diagrams online. Do you know what colors I'm looking for?
Dude, the wiring makes NO SENSE, in these trucks. The wire inside the door going to the speakers doesn’t match the wiring going into the plugs in the B pillar. It is super frustrating. I honestly don’t have a good answer for you on colors of wires as they are all going to be different especially with the different system. The 19 speaker system uses two separate amplifiers. I can take a look at mine today and tell you the colors of my rear speaker wires but I don’t think it will match up on a non 10 speaker system unfortunately
On a whole other topic, have you booked your appointment to head out for Raptor Assault school yet. I just placed mine and got my confirmation back already, booked my lodging also. So excited for this trip can’t wait.
I did get my confirmation. I’m be there 9-10 July! It’s gonna be rad. I haven’t booked my hotel yet. I’m going to drive out from Virginia because I have a 50 mile running race in Leadville 4 days earlier that I will already be out that way for. I can’t wait
Cool! Very Cool! End of September is my date, I also am driving my Raptor out there from Wisconsin. The wife and I are going to drive up to Yellowstone after my class and spend a couple days there and then hit Mt Rushmore on the way home. Taking a week and half vacation time for this.
That sounds great and the weather will probably be awesome in September
That’s what I was hoping and one reason I wanted that date 29,30. Also the scenery should be breathtaking at that time in Yellowstone, I hope.
For sure. I used to go snowmobiling in Yellowstone every February growing up, never been there when it wasn’t frozen over but from the pictures I have seen you won’t be disappointed in sept/october
Do you have any problem with the audible warning for front and rear after this upgrade?
All of the chimes and warnings still come through all the speakers, but they are a bit louder than before since the volume of the warning/chime tones were set and I amplified the signal
did you wire your sub after the factory amp or before it? wouldnt it be better to wire it from the wires coming into the factory amp so the signal is cleaner? cheers
the signal coming into the factory amp comes over a micro USB cable... the amplifier also acts as a signal processor so i had to pull the signal as high level inputs since there is no standard 5 volt inputs that i am used to finding from old school head units.
@@flaberdoopin thanks. and where did you pull your remote wire for the kicker amp from?
The amp is turned on from the high level inputs from the factory sub, no signal wire was run on my install and the amp only turns on when it sees a signal from the high levels. It is made for that exact use case and when you do that the remote in actually becomes a remote out for future upgrades
@@flaberdoopin thanks mate thats perfect. id post a pic of mine with all 4 wheels off the ground to say thanks but cant post pics here!
That sounds awesome, I have only gotten the front two barely off haha
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
I am struggeling with a diy installation. Where do u get the remore 12v power on wire from for the amp?
You will either need an Amp capable of accepting high level input so it can use that signal as the signal to power on or you could pull accessory power from a fuse but I would steer clear of that. They may make a converter that you can put high level inputs into that will send the signal power but I’ve never gone down that road.
Did you run speaker wire to each speaker or were you able to connect the speaker wires from the harness to go to the Kicker Key? I'm debating on doing this upgrade, but hoping I can tap into the wiring harness from B&O amp to get speaker output to Kicker Key. And which wires did you tap into for the high level to the Kicker?
I was able to reuse all of the wires from the vehicles wiring harness to get the door speakers wired up but i did have to run wires directly to the tweeters in the A Pillars because those run off a different amplifier and i wasn't able to find those wires... but running that was easy because they didn't have to go through any seals to the doors or anything. The Kicker Key is awesome, i cant believe how much more power that puts out than the stock system. I ended up completely taking the center channel out (disconnected it but the speaker is still sitting there) Hope that helps.
@@flaberdoopin So is anything still connected to the factory B&O amp after your upgrade?
I just installed my Kicker hideaway 10, which is an upgrade from the factory sub. It only took me about 2 hours since I learned from your mistakes...the grease going through the firewall grommet really worked well on the first attempt. My kicker key arrived today & will tackle it next, but I couldn't remember which wires you used for the high level input. I know I need to cut off the RCA ends to wire them for high level input, but which color wires do I use from the factory amp?