Usually I'd be happy to be next in line behind Uncle B to take a stab at a sloppy seconds joke when it comes to someone's missus... However, I'm going to abort, and go with Plan B (*snort*): B serious! I think YarTub's vijeo recommendation algorithm is knackered as of late. Because despite never watching a rap video on my account, the last month my Home Feed page has had roughly a dozen of them recommended to me every day. 🤷♂️
Playing in a machinery repair shop for the past decade, I've learned to just skip to welding the nut on. The only thing I do different is welding a washer to the stud first, then weld the nut on. In case your at an angle like you are in this video and you have a spot inside the nut you cannot fill with weld, it let's you weld the washer and nut together to substitute not getting a full weld on the inside, as well as providing a larger surface area to weld a larger nut on. For smaller bolts I'm afraid I'm going to snap, I'm fond of turning a cutting torch down low and holding it far enough away that the bolt very slowly heats up until its cherry red, then dumping water on it to cool it off and shock it. They generally come without issue then. It works on broken ones as well, just weld a nut on after shocking them. Also, don't grind on the surface of a sheared bolt if you want to heat it with a torch, they become reflective and you have a far harder time getting them to heat up without overheating the surrounding area and preventing the temperature difference in the materials from working its magic. I'm sorry for writing a novel, but I hope it helps somebody someday.
I've found starting a drill helps the weld heat up the threads quicker. The faster you can heat the bolt and what it's threaded into, the better. In same same vein, using a stick welder, and some hot electrodes helps.
@@danl.4743 if the bolt is broken below the surface of the material you mean? It's harder, and a good bit is experience but Tim Hunter is absolutely correct in saying a stick welder is helpful. You need to start a bead on the center of the bolt and build up a weld that covers a majority of it, I would say roughly 3/4 the diameter of the bolt is sufficient. Once you get that first weld down, chip the top of the weld and leave the slag in the hole. That's the key. The slag will build up as you repeat the welding and chipping process and will help prevent the weld from rolling into the wall of the hole you are working in. If you thinking the bolt or weld may be getting a bit too hot, stop the process for a while to allow it to cool. Also, stick provides more visibility into the hole by simply being small. It's absolutely the way to go. Once you have it built up and get your nut and washer welded on, make sure you leave it cool for 15 minutes or so, and go get a breaker bar to work it loose with. If you crank on the thing too hard or too soon you may very well twist your weld apart and start again. Use the breaker bar and work it back and forth. it won't move much at first, but it will eventually come. The entire thing is slow and careful, but it's not as rough as it sounds. Just relax and go slow and steady. I wish I could show a picture of it on here, but I have a broken idler bolt from a D11 bulldozer I removed with this process in my toolbox. I stacked weld about 3.5 inches to get it built back up to where a nut could be welded on and removed. Definitely one of my most impressive pulls.
The washer also lets the heat spread away flatter instead of out toward the nut so its less likely to break. I usually use vice grips to turn the washer instead of wasting time/ consumables adding a nut on top.
I've removed quite a few broken bolts via ez-outs /extractors, torches and the good ol' weld a nut to the damn thing and twist. Never tried a washer on the smaller PITA fasteners. I'll keep that in my trick bag for later use. Thanks Osseo.
Dealing with this now. Oil pan on 96 f150. Figured it would take me a full day. Another day for the trans lines. Day 3 and jus got the pan out, havent even extracted the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs. Every single thing ive touched has been a horror show. Nothing has gone easy. The truck is in great shape, but underneath all the fasteners n everything is rusted. The joy of living in new england/boston where winter roads destroy our cars. Not even my car im working on.
@@graealex no method works 100% of the time for removing a bolt if you're trying to save the threads. Sometimes they are cross threaded or seized to bad.
@@shanemayers777 Just saying directly jumping to the method with the best chances of working is a time saver. Maybe it's survivor bias, and we're never thinking about the times when the left-handed drills extracted a bolt, but my gut feeling is that it never works right with them.
There's a key thing to know when it comes to welding the nut. Leave a small gap between the nut and the piece with the broken bolt. If you position the nut up tight to the work piece the weld will shrink and likely crack. Often you can hear it when it does.
BINGO! You get it exactly. It's a stress point. Any sudden change in size or sharp corner is a stress point. I weld some material on it first, just build it up, so it TAPERS up larger. Then weld a nut, washer, whatever, on THAT if needed. But it wasn't necessary this time, and knowing this guy......some aiming assistance was a safe choice.
Took me back to a similar situation where I had the privilege to be a bystander. Old mate cursing the lack of room to get access to the broken off bolt, when up rolls the veteran fitter and turner. The Veteran looked, wandered off, then came back with a right-angle drill, and a set of left hand STUBBY drill bits. Only time I've ever seen them.
Back in the 90s I lived for several years with a girl who was an HT in the Navy. She looked like Farrah Fawcett and had a mouth like a truck driver. Now I see why.
@@Dave001968 I only just realised the blue time stamp is a clicky link. I don't watch TV. I youtube for hours every night. Have done for years. I just learnt something new.
99.9% of the time I just skip all the other steps and go straight to welding a nut on the snapped bolt. The other methods have cost me countless hours, and caused any nearby children to pick up a vile vernacular.
you didn't even devolve into looking at prices to just replace the part before deciding "too rich for my blood", nor did you arrive at, "fuck it, it just lives there now". I'm proud of you.
Use black nuts if you got em or drill the centers to remove the zinc / passivation. Makes it so much easier to weld to the broken fastener and start the arc!
I like at 4:57 when the mechanic in you comes out! TALK to it, made me chuckle early in the morning. Been using that method for years. An even bigger surprise than when you whip out the left hand drill bits on a newbie. Thanks for the content.
These days being the impatient type I just head straight for the MIG in this kind of situation. I try and fill the nut in one go to get max heat into the bolt. Usually let it cool some too. Good work 😀
Lol. Was drilling a bolt the other day with some leftwing nutters. My 80 year old neighbor was diligently watching and without missing a beat, asked if the bit I was using was getting me anywhere. Now, being that he's a wise old guy, he uses his telescoping magnet to slide the object containing the rest of the bits closer for him to pick up. I knew what he was up to. He's ready to bust my stones, but before doing so... Experience pushed him to read that it was left handed. Silence ensued. In return, I busted his stones because I knew exactly what he was up to.
Very interesting! Never seen anyone use the 'weld a nut to it' method before, Ill be using that one in the future! A while ago, I was working on a refrigeration compressor, and there is an oil fitting that screws in at a weird angle, and its made of the finest chinesium, and wouldn't you know it, trying to remove it broke the dang thing off right at the surface. No problem, Its a tube, break out an extractor tap and twist it out. HA, broke that sucker off in the hole too. Real smooth move... Fortunately I was able to take the piece off and take it home, spent probably 3h trying to extract it. Used a torch, chisels, drills, and more to remove the chunk of hardened tap remover, then had to custom grind a cold punch into a sorta chisel shape to scrape the tube out until I could peel out section of it. Such a pain, but dang it was satisfying removing the last chunk of pipe from the threads. And in the end the threads were still good!
Okay lets understand I worked as a bona-fide truck coach mechanic 👍 but you sir have a great way of making just things well rather humorous so thankyou and someone else will learn 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍
I had to use those nifty extractors once or twice, the first time was when I was replacing the spark plugs on my Chevy LT1 engine. The first 7 spark plugs all came out in one piece, it was the #8 cylinder that snapped because the rust had eaten through more that half the hex nut of the plug, thankfully all the center ceramic core was in one piece. I bought a set of German made extractors and it worked like a charm and had the threads out in a jiffy. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and then charging an hour for a 5 minute job.
With easy outs, the biggest trick is to first drill ALL THE WAY THROUGH the stud, then heat with a torch until above the recrystalization temperature of the material, thermal expansion embiggens the broken dohicky and since it can't swell out it swells IN into the hole you drilled in the middle. Let it cool, it shrinks a bit and comes right oot. Unless of course it's galled or crossthreaded then you're facked. Also usually doesn't work on stainless, recrystalization temp is to farken high.
I’ve put some of your tips and tricks into practice in my trade. Picked up some tap sockets aswell. I have saved my overzealous salesman’s ass on plumbing jobs more than once now.
I had a harmonic balancer bolt broke off in my crankshaft years ago. I started to drill a hole in it, and as soon as the drill bit into the broken bolt it just threaded it all the way in. Easiest removal I’ve ever had.
Many of us simpleton wrench fondlers with delusions of self-importance maintain a special place in our hearts and an equally special place in our jobboxes for what we call "the drawer of victory", snapped fasteners and the hard-earned techniques to remove them. 3" deep of 8mm thread, plugged off with a broken setscrew, firmly solidified in there by a clueless production tech that stuck a 2nd in after it and assisted the thread distortion with 14" of sch40 torque amplifier. Staring down the muzzle of that is the beginning of a tale that the bards would sing of for eons if there was justice in the factory.
Nice to see AVE has to use Verbal Motivation of the R Rated Type. I thought that only worked in the US. Thought you had to break out the French version in Canada. Thanks for the videos.
Besides left handed metal beavers, which are always fun, left handed lightbulbs are always fun to mix in with the rest. I believe they're also available in LED these days.
I watch your videos, I'm subscribed and I still don't get how you manage to talk so much shit mixed with what you're really saying and make it sound coherent. I love listening to you and I find it very entertaining.
Had to use a combination of heat and the ol' impact driver on some stubborn slotted screws just yesterday. I was glad that the impact driver worked, 'cause things were about to get rowdy getting those things busted loose.
Drilled a bolt out a 5/8 above my head at 90 degrees with a sea of hoses. Couldn't get feed pressure then one of the trick I got from your videos jumped in my head. Hose strap and a pry bar and we where on.
In the die shop, we also use a scriber like a chisel. Electric or Pneumatic works for bolts that are loose enough, the vibration helps loosen as it pushes it. For holes in counterbores, add a copper tube and weld up the tube and to a nut.
Welding on a bolt is the first thing I do. Even with molested bolt heads. It is the easiest, quickest and the most effective way to extract a broken bolts/studs. Same with removing stuck bearings.
Don't forget a little penetrating oil when first gathering tools. The kind that says "As seen on TV" is best, but some cost less and work for less rusty bolts like the one shown. There are angled drills and drill adapters for tight spots, BTW. They don't last a lot of hours, so should only be used when necessary. There used to be stick rod with shielding just for the application years ago, but forgot what it's called. Thanks for another bit of shop technology. Make sure to clean up excess oil with brake cleaner and dry before welding, unless you intend to build a fire, then a class B extinguisher nearby is recommended.
A good tip is to build up some weld on the broken bolt first. Create a small "spike" of weld on the broken bolt. Then push the nut on to the "spike" and weld the nut to the new "spike" of metal. Doing this, you will have a strong connection between the broken bolt and the nut.
"Swede Key". That's what the older guys called those two-bolt pin retainers when I was a young enginerd. The failure mechanism as described in the previous video never occurred to us. And I designed many of them! I'm no longer young, but will probably always be an enginerd.
I am similarly afflicted. 48 moons ago I made mods to a LARS for "something heavy" that had 12" hinge pins that used a similar detail to retain them, except that the plates were 1.5" and had 3/4" weld on three sides. Well that damned pin cammed those bitches right off, sheared the welds. Had bronze bushings at the pins and greased everything. Yeah not using that detail anymore, make them free to rotate.
Per the Basic Electrical instructor for Volvo Trucks NA remove the positive cable from the battery and connect it to the negative terminal on the battery (obviously this will only work if there are no other power sources (i.e.: "house" battery or some auxiliary power supply)). This bonds the positive side components to the ground side and virtually eliminates the chance of stray welding current damaging anything. Had to take Basic Electrical from Ford, Volvo, Hino, Cat, Cummins and Detroit in order to become certified for warranty work on each brand and the Volvo instructor was the only one who pointed this out. Interestingly, every manufacturer's electricity works the same.
Only started welding (Actually just sticking metal together at the moment.) last year. I always disconnect the battery but someone said I should disconnect the alternator. All comments welcome, rude, stupid, condescending or just plain helpful.
Ave, I weld and then stack beads directly to the stud. Broken flush or counter sunk. Skip the nut all together. Turn it out with vice grips or round off extractors
A good number of years ago I had to extract a bolt from a Cat 3406 cylinder head. They love to break exhaust bolts. I worked my way up to welding a nut on, and that still didn't do it. I had to blow it out with a torch. I get this all done, clean the threads up, and then the guy who was supposed to be doing the job comes along and jams a standard bolt into this nicely restored metric hole.
I can deeply relate... on our shredders at work we sometimes got plenty of bolts get stuck, ripped off or simply compressed.... Sadnybi cant weld and best i can do is heat em up or grind away the top and make a cut to slowly get em out...
About cooling, heat up with tirch cool down with non flammable dust spray. You may repeat that few times on rusty screws. Those dust sprays work wonders when you deal with tight bearongs and shafts...
i was an auto mechanic for 32 years and i am quite familiar with all the possible ways of removing a snapped bolt. some go fairly easy while others leads to a lot of swearing and gnashing of teeth!
If you have to drill and can fit a glow plug in the hole..Best heating method. I keep a few good one around for various heating purposes. Made a nice DC powered soldering iron with one and copper tube.
I once had a sitiation were a lawn tractor had been abused for years and all 4 motor mount bolts had sheared straight off. If it weren't for the magic of LH drills i would had have had to pull the engine to get them out. Still was no fun drilling them out from underneath with almost no room however. I had the same issue with just not having quite enough purchase to get it done but they eventually did come out!
Had to do the same task at work today. Went through the same process except I ran out of time. Ended up welding the retaining plate on with a couple of tack welds after having the nut snap off
If you're lacking a spanner, you could also weld on a little square bar or rod, as a lever, which you can easily rotate with fingers, easier to weld also, for less plating
Hot snot and a nut, fun times gone wrong? It’s the go to method for such sit-she-ations round these parts. Will slacken the jaw of any apprentice when you extract a snapped off exhaust stud with electric glue et un ecrou after he’s spent half the day with a punch, drill bit and easy outs. The real trick though is finding the god damn 10mm or 9/16 socket for the nut you just welded on.
I once welded a grippy bit to the broken bolt, then cooled the the twisty parts down with the touch of an ice cube. Came right out like a deflated pecker after its job was done.
You're a true showman. I on the other hand am always looking at the task and trying to get the desired effect done faster. As long as the customer isn't there breathing down your neck, I go right for the welder and the vice grips. But if you have to justify fleecing the customer, go through all the other steps first knowing full well you're just milking the job out and then make it last all day. Or just tell them to come back at dark with a wheelbarrow full of hundred dollar bills. But if you need an excuse to stay away from home, and don't want to have to lie, by all means, dick the pooch.
By the time I set up my welder, I could at least give it a quick try with a chisel or LH bit. Maybe adds 5 min to the job. If it's taking you hours, hang up the wrenches and call a mechanic.
When I can't get pressure on a bit for lack of access or a bad angle, if possible, a bar to use as a lever wedged off of the back of the drill body to whatever behind saves the day. Impromptu drill press.
Predrill with a smaller bit(but not too small, otherwise it will break too easy), then predrill near big and then big. Because of the last small step the drill-bit will bite like hell and that's what you want in this case. But be carefull, maybe use the torque limiter of the drill , (expect it to seize(also the drillbit needs to be big enough to take the torque when it suddenly seizes/or use a weak drill)), otherwise you can hurt you.
Why did RUclips recommend this to my wife?
must have a problem with busted studs.
Usually I'd be happy to be next in line behind Uncle B to take a stab at a sloppy seconds joke when it comes to someone's missus...
However, I'm going to abort, and go with Plan B (*snort*): B serious!
I think YarTub's vijeo recommendation algorithm is knackered as of late. Because despite never watching a rap video on my account, the last month my Home Feed page has had roughly a dozen of them recommended to me every day. 🤷♂️
RUclips, take note. This is how you make an amazing reply.
she attempted to watch it but in the end it was all for nuttin 😬😂
F
Playing in a machinery repair shop for the past decade, I've learned to just skip to welding the nut on. The only thing I do different is welding a washer to the stud first, then weld the nut on. In case your at an angle like you are in this video and you have a spot inside the nut you cannot fill with weld, it let's you weld the washer and nut together to substitute not getting a full weld on the inside, as well as providing a larger surface area to weld a larger nut on.
For smaller bolts I'm afraid I'm going to snap, I'm fond of turning a cutting torch down low and holding it far enough away that the bolt very slowly heats up until its cherry red, then dumping water on it to cool it off and shock it. They generally come without issue then. It works on broken ones as well, just weld a nut on after shocking them. Also, don't grind on the surface of a sheared bolt if you want to heat it with a torch, they become reflective and you have a far harder time getting them to heat up without overheating the surrounding area and preventing the temperature difference in the materials from working its magic.
I'm sorry for writing a novel, but I hope it helps somebody someday.
I think itll help someone on a very bad day
good on you for taking the time to spell it out. Those of us that have fought this particular battle recognize the good advice.
I've found starting a drill helps the weld heat up the threads quicker. The faster you can heat the bolt and what it's threaded into, the better.
In same same vein, using a stick welder, and some hot electrodes helps.
How do you prevent the weld from welding the broken bolt to the surrounding material??
@@danl.4743 if the bolt is broken below the surface of the material you mean? It's harder, and a good bit is experience but Tim Hunter is absolutely correct in saying a stick welder is helpful. You need to start a bead on the center of the bolt and build up a weld that covers a majority of it, I would say roughly 3/4 the diameter of the bolt is sufficient. Once you get that first weld down, chip the top of the weld and leave the slag in the hole. That's the key. The slag will build up as you repeat the welding and chipping process and will help prevent the weld from rolling into the wall of the hole you are working in. If you thinking the bolt or weld may be getting a bit too hot, stop the process for a while to allow it to cool. Also, stick provides more visibility into the hole by simply being small. It's absolutely the way to go. Once you have it built up and get your nut and washer welded on, make sure you leave it cool for 15 minutes or so, and go get a breaker bar to work it loose with. If you crank on the thing too hard or too soon you may very well twist your weld apart and start again. Use the breaker bar and work it back and forth. it won't move much at first, but it will eventually come.
The entire thing is slow and careful, but it's not as rough as it sounds. Just relax and go slow and steady. I wish I could show a picture of it on here, but I have a broken idler bolt from a D11 bulldozer I removed with this process in my toolbox. I stacked weld about 3.5 inches to get it built back up to where a nut could be welded on and removed. Definitely one of my most impressive pulls.
And for the smaller bolts, weld a washer on first so you can up size the nut. Easier and more material to weld the nut on.
Nice.
Thats one i never seen. Good idea
Yup. I don't bother trying any other method these days. No sense bothering with methods that *may* work versus a way you know *will* work..
The washer also lets the heat spread away flatter instead of out toward the nut so its less likely to break. I usually use vice grips to turn the washer instead of wasting time/ consumables adding a nut on top.
I've removed quite a few broken bolts via ez-outs /extractors, torches and the good ol' weld a nut to the damn thing and twist. Never tried a washer on the smaller PITA fasteners. I'll keep that in my trick bag for later use. Thanks Osseo.
Every 5 minute repair is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal.
So true...I'm having flashbacks.
I have a policy now, if anyone ever dares to tell me, "It will only take you five minutes." I just punch them.
Dealing with this now. Oil pan on 96 f150. Figured it would take me a full day. Another day for the trans lines. Day 3 and jus got the pan out, havent even extracted the 2 broken exhaust manifold studs. Every single thing ive touched has been a horror show. Nothing has gone easy. The truck is in great shape, but underneath all the fasteners n everything is rusted. The joy of living in new england/boston where winter roads destroy our cars. Not even my car im working on.
Wiser words have never been spoken
Oh my God isn't that the truth.
At my shop we almost always just start with the welder if possible. Works the best in my opinion.
Using the method that works 100% of the time first is probably the best - unless it is unnecessarily destructive.
@@graealex no method works 100% of the time for removing a bolt if you're trying to save the threads. Sometimes they are cross threaded or seized to bad.
@@shanemayers777 Just saying directly jumping to the method with the best chances of working is a time saver.
Maybe it's survivor bias, and we're never thinking about the times when the left-handed drills extracted a bolt, but my gut feeling is that it never works right with them.
Yep
Exactly what I was thinking. A welded on nut makes this a fairly easy job
There's a key thing to know when it comes to welding the nut. Leave a small gap between the nut and the piece with the broken bolt. If you position the nut up tight to the work piece the weld will shrink and likely crack. Often you can hear it when it does.
Makes so much sense. I will try that 👍
I've seen some people mend this issue by first welding a washer onto the broken bolt, then welding the nut to the washer.
BINGO! You get it exactly. It's a stress point. Any sudden change in size or sharp corner is a stress point. I weld some material on it first, just build it up, so it TAPERS up larger.
Then weld a nut, washer, whatever, on THAT if needed. But it wasn't necessary this time, and knowing this guy......some aiming assistance was a safe choice.
Took me back to a similar situation where I had the privilege to be a bystander. Old mate cursing the lack of room to get access to the broken off bolt, when up rolls the veteran fitter and turner.
The Veteran looked, wandered off, then came back with a right-angle drill, and a set of left hand STUBBY drill bits. Only time I've ever seen them.
I'm glad to see at 4.57, you got the welders technical terminology correct.
4:57 use a colon not a dot, for clicky link.
Back in the 90s I lived for several years with a girl who was an HT in the Navy. She looked like Farrah Fawcett and had a mouth like a truck driver. Now I see why.
That's pretty common technical language.
@@Dave001968 I don't think I'm going too far when I call you a hero.
@@Dave001968 I only just realised the blue time stamp is a clicky link. I don't watch TV. I youtube for hours every night. Have done for years. I just learnt something new.
99.9% of the time I just skip all the other steps and go straight to welding a nut on the snapped bolt. The other methods have cost me countless hours, and caused any nearby children to pick up a vile vernacular.
A late night surprise.... much appreciated. That hilti makes a better door than a window...
you didn't even devolve into looking at prices to just replace the part before deciding "too rich for my blood", nor did you arrive at, "fuck it, it just lives there now". I'm proud of you.
I really appreciate the time it took to set up the light and camera for this, always love your videos!
And his humor which seemed to be understandably lacking in this video
Use black nuts if you got em or drill the centers to remove the zinc / passivation. Makes it so much easier to weld to the broken fastener and start the arc!
2:36 - Some 5 star camera work there. Super best.
I like at 4:57 when the mechanic in you comes out! TALK to it, made me chuckle early in the morning. Been using that method for years. An even bigger surprise than when you whip out the left hand drill bits on a newbie. Thanks for the content.
These days being the impatient type I just head straight for the MIG in this kind of situation. I try and fill the nut in one go to get max heat into the bolt. Usually let it cool some too. Good work 😀
Lol. Was drilling a bolt the other day with some leftwing nutters. My 80 year old neighbor was diligently watching and without missing a beat, asked if the bit I was using was getting me anywhere. Now, being that he's a wise old guy, he uses his telescoping magnet to slide the object containing the rest of the bits closer for him to pick up. I knew what he was up to. He's ready to bust my stones, but before doing so... Experience pushed him to read that it was left handed. Silence ensued. In return, I busted his stones because I knew exactly what he was up to.
another one of those: "can you do me a quick favor"... that turns into a slugfest with at least 4.5 swear words per minute...
Very interesting! Never seen anyone use the 'weld a nut to it' method before, Ill be using that one in the future!
A while ago, I was working on a refrigeration compressor, and there is an oil fitting that screws in at a weird angle, and its made of the finest chinesium, and wouldn't you know it, trying to remove it broke the dang thing off right at the surface. No problem, Its a tube, break out an extractor tap and twist it out. HA, broke that sucker off in the hole too. Real smooth move... Fortunately I was able to take the piece off and take it home, spent probably 3h trying to extract it. Used a torch, chisels, drills, and more to remove the chunk of hardened tap remover, then had to custom grind a cold punch into a sorta chisel shape to scrape the tube out until I could peel out section of it. Such a pain, but dang it was satisfying removing the last chunk of pipe from the threads. And in the end the threads were still good!
There's a seized, broken, bolt in my engine block that's caused me to not fix my car for a year now. You just inspired me to get it out.
Asked this question many times no one had a answer disconnect battery when welding thank you sir 🙏🐺
Okay lets understand I worked as a bona-fide truck coach mechanic 👍 but you sir have a great way of making just things well rather humorous so thankyou and someone else will learn 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍
I had to use those nifty extractors once or twice, the first time was when I was replacing the spark plugs on my Chevy LT1 engine. The first 7 spark plugs all came out in one piece, it was the #8 cylinder that snapped because the rust had eaten through more that half the hex nut of the plug, thankfully all the center ceramic core was in one piece. I bought a set of German made extractors and it worked like a charm and had the threads out in a jiffy. This saved me a trip to the mechanic and then charging an hour for a 5 minute job.
Start with an 1/8” stubby bit for a pilot hole and not a 1/4 or 5/16 or whatever you tried to start drilling with.
With easy outs, the biggest trick is to first drill ALL THE WAY THROUGH the stud, then heat with a torch until above the recrystalization temperature of the material, thermal expansion embiggens the broken dohicky and since it can't swell out it swells IN into the hole you drilled in the middle. Let it cool, it shrinks a bit and comes right oot. Unless of course it's galled or crossthreaded then you're facked. Also usually doesn't work on stainless, recrystalization temp is to farken high.
"Do not stare into the pretty blue light" 🤣 I hoped that meant new safety stickers and I wasn't disappointed! 😁
Another tip. If the bolt is too deep use a copper tube to protect the threads before welding.
" Do Not Stare Into The Pretty Blue Light ."
" That's What The Red Light District Is For "
I just love his humorous choice of words and how ess em art he is.
I’ve put some of your tips and tricks into practice in my trade. Picked up some tap sockets aswell. I have saved my overzealous salesman’s ass on plumbing jobs more than once now.
You my friend are a freaking legend.
Your dt's are worse than mine at a Monday morning pre start meeting. Love ya work!
I’m glad you showed disconnected battery 👍
I enjoy how quiet you got the set.
I had a harmonic balancer bolt broke off in my crankshaft years ago. I started to drill a hole in it, and as soon as the drill bit into the broken bolt it just threaded it all the way in. Easiest removal I’ve ever had.
Many of us simpleton wrench fondlers with delusions of self-importance maintain a special place in our hearts and an equally special place in our jobboxes for what we call "the drawer of victory", snapped fasteners and the hard-earned techniques to remove them. 3" deep of 8mm thread, plugged off with a broken setscrew, firmly solidified in there by a clueless production tech that stuck a 2nd in after it and assisted the thread distortion with 14" of sch40 torque amplifier. Staring down the muzzle of that is the beginning of a tale that the bards would sing of for eons if there was justice in the factory.
Nice to see AVE has to use Verbal Motivation of the R Rated Type. I thought that only worked in the US. Thought you had to break out the French version in Canada. Thanks for the videos.
Love your natural flow man, if witty comments come they come, if not, we learn something worst case scenario Haha keep it up! Keep it going
Besides left handed metal beavers, which are always fun, left handed lightbulbs are always fun to mix in with the rest. I believe they're also available in LED these days.
2:15 Remember, if the drill doesn't fit you can always just use your mind powers to drive the bit.
God bless hardened torx bits. Drill a hole, beat one in, and twist it off. If it slips, go one size up.
Saved my ass from broken bolts many times.
Ive used torx bits to get Allen head bolts with stripped heads out, very handy
I watch your videos, I'm subscribed and I still don't get how you manage to talk so much shit mixed with what you're really saying and make it sound coherent. I love listening to you and I find it very entertaining.
Had to use a combination of heat and the ol' impact driver on some stubborn slotted screws just yesterday. I was glad that the impact driver worked, 'cause things were about to get rowdy getting those things busted loose.
I was waiting for the ‘ you can’t stick if you’re molten ‘ moment.
The thing to remember when the odds are long, the task thankless and the work taxing...
...foist it onto the next shift. 🙂👍
Drilled a bolt out a 5/8 above my head at 90 degrees with a sea of hoses. Couldn't get feed pressure then one of the trick I got from your videos jumped in my head. Hose strap and a pry bar and we where on.
Dawn edited a spelling mistake and lost my ave heart react
first time's free, next time'll costya.
In the die shop, we also use a scriber like a chisel. Electric or Pneumatic works for bolts that are loose enough, the vibration helps loosen as it pushes it. For holes in counterbores, add a copper tube and weld up the tube and to a nut.
Welding on a bolt is the first thing I do. Even with molested bolt heads.
It is the easiest, quickest and the most effective way to extract a broken bolts/studs. Same with removing stuck bearings.
Don't forget a little penetrating oil when first gathering tools. The kind that says "As seen on TV" is best, but some cost less and work for less rusty bolts like the one shown. There are angled drills and drill adapters for tight spots, BTW. They don't last a lot of hours, so should only be used when necessary. There used to be stick rod with shielding just for the application years ago, but forgot what it's called. Thanks for another bit of shop technology. Make sure to clean up excess oil with brake cleaner and dry before welding, unless you intend to build a fire, then a class B extinguisher nearby is recommended.
A good tip is to build up some weld on the broken bolt first. Create a small "spike" of weld on the broken bolt. Then push the nut on to the "spike" and weld the nut to the new "spike" of metal. Doing this, you will have a strong connection between the broken bolt and the nut.
This is my go to bolt extraction method 😎
I just read about the battle of Long Tan. ANZAC forces in vietnam. Salute to all from 🇺🇸
"Swede Key". That's what the older guys called those two-bolt pin retainers when I was a young enginerd. The failure mechanism as described in the previous video never occurred to us. And I designed many of them!
I'm no longer young, but will probably always be an enginerd.
I am similarly afflicted. 48 moons ago I made mods to a LARS for "something heavy" that had 12" hinge pins that used a similar detail to retain them, except that the plates were 1.5" and had 3/4" weld on three sides. Well that damned pin cammed those bitches right off, sheared the welds. Had bronze bushings at the pins and greased everything. Yeah not using that detail anymore, make them free to rotate.
But the blue light is so pretty, it makes me cry. 🤩😭
2:40 That subtle Brand PLACEMENT for Hilti😂
Per the Basic Electrical instructor for Volvo Trucks NA remove the positive cable from the battery and connect it to the negative terminal on the battery (obviously this will only work if there are no other power sources (i.e.: "house" battery or some auxiliary power supply)). This bonds the positive side components to the ground side and virtually eliminates the chance of stray welding current damaging anything. Had to take Basic Electrical from Ford, Volvo, Hino, Cat, Cummins and Detroit in order to become certified for warranty work on each brand and the Volvo instructor was the only one who pointed this out.
Interestingly, every manufacturer's electricity works the same.
You have two options for differential expansion the hot and the cold. For the cold, can air turned upside down works real good.
Only started welding (Actually just sticking metal together at the moment.) last year.
I always disconnect the battery but someone said I should disconnect the alternator. All comments welcome, rude, stupid, condescending or just plain helpful.
Call me a sadist, but I’m only here to watch someone else suffer as much as I normally do. It warms my soul.
Ave, I weld and then stack beads directly to the stud. Broken flush or counter sunk. Skip the nut all together. Turn it out with vice grips or round off extractors
95 F150, drivers side seat belt replacement. That bolt on the floor was so rusted! I don't want to talk about it any more!
Being a Land Rover man i feel your pain!.
The best bit is torquing on the rusty bolt and it stays in but the floor comes out🤬😆
A good number of years ago I had to extract a bolt from a Cat 3406 cylinder head. They love to break exhaust bolts. I worked my way up to welding a nut on, and that still didn't do it. I had to blow it out with a torch. I get this all done, clean the threads up, and then the guy who was supposed to be doing the job comes along and jams a standard bolt into this nicely restored metric hole.
I can deeply relate... on our shredders at work we sometimes got plenty of bolts get stuck, ripped off or simply compressed....
Sadnybi cant weld and best i can do is heat em up or grind away the top and make a cut to slowly get em out...
About cooling, heat up with tirch cool down with non flammable dust spray. You may repeat that few times on rusty screws. Those dust sprays work wonders when you deal with tight bearongs and shafts...
Quite the tease bangin behind that Hilti. Thought you were going to start an onlyhands.
i was an auto mechanic for 32 years and i am quite familiar with all the possible ways of removing a snapped bolt.
some go fairly easy while others leads to a lot of swearing and gnashing of teeth!
Use 10018 rod for particularly challenging bolts. The higher tensile strength helps.
Got some proper old man grunting going on at 2:12 :applause:
Love watching an enginerd drilling . A good boy with a torch will remove bolt and leave the threads behind for the next guy !
Hot snot is my first go to most of the time, rarely fails.
Thanks for the video. Hoping for more from you soon. Really enjoy your work. Thanks
Gotta love those drills from the southern hemisphere. They turn the same way as you flush the toilets!
If you have to drill and can fit a glow plug in the hole..Best heating method. I keep a few good one around for various heating purposes. Made a nice DC powered soldering iron with one and copper tube.
I once had a sitiation were a lawn tractor had been abused for years and all 4 motor mount bolts had sheared straight off. If it weren't for the magic of LH drills i would had have had to pull the engine to get them out. Still was no fun drilling them out from underneath with almost no room however. I had the same issue with just not having quite enough purchase to get it done but they eventually did come out!
Had to do the same task at work today. Went through the same process except I ran out of time. Ended up welding the retaining plate on with a couple of tack welds after having the nut snap off
If you're lacking a spanner, you could also weld on a little square bar or rod, as a lever, which you can easily rotate with fingers, easier to weld also, for less plating
Looks like you've joined the carpel tunnel club
Hot snot and a nut, fun times gone wrong?
It’s the go to method for such sit-she-ations round these parts.
Will slacken the jaw of any apprentice when you extract a snapped off exhaust stud with electric glue et un ecrou after he’s spent half the day with a punch, drill bit and easy outs.
The real trick though is finding the god damn 10mm or 9/16 socket for the nut you just welded on.
Pay attention to that centering hole, when it gets dirty, a little hair around the target helps.
It's satisfying to watch the broken bolt coming out.
Hammer, punch, and patience is always the best way to start.
I once welded a grippy bit to the broken bolt, then cooled the the twisty parts down with the touch of an ice cube. Came right out like a deflated pecker after its job was done.
Chuck Norris just stares at it and the bolt removes itself.
Weld a bigger thick washer on and then a nut to the washer, it works a treat.
I think you might have forgotten to give it a spritz of penetrating oil prior to any attempting.
Negative I find it only causes issues when you eventually concede that you have to drag the glue gun out
Its damn near brand new. No rust on it. Would have helped a little but not much.
That right there is the worst nightmare of any mechanic. That one came out easy enough. You got lucky.
I love how he leaves the "you fukken piece of"....but bleeps out the "shit"
You're a true showman. I on the other hand am always looking at the task and trying to get the desired effect done faster. As long as the customer isn't there breathing down your neck, I go right for the welder and the vice grips. But if you have to justify fleecing the customer, go through all the other steps first knowing full well you're just milking the job out and then make it last all day. Or just tell them to come back at dark with a wheelbarrow full of hundred dollar bills. But if you need an excuse to stay away from home, and don't want to have to lie, by all means, dick the pooch.
By the time I set up my welder, I could at least give it a quick try with a chisel or LH bit. Maybe adds 5 min to the job. If it's taking you hours, hang up the wrenches and call a mechanic.
Jimmy the Idiot returns! I guess he's in Mexico now?
@@BluTechEquipment yeah it's one thing to spend an hour with a chisel, but sometimes you just grab it and out it comes.
Been there done that WAY 2 many times. Extra credit when the broken bolt comes out minus the threads.
The guys at Chernobyl were told not to stare at the pretty blue light, but for different reasons I'm told.
well done young sir. now,... do it when the misses is waiting. all love
Backing out has never been my strong suit.
As always proving it is all in the vocabulary used when seducing the cooperation desired during insertion and withdraw.
success! a lot of fighting, but the battle was a worthy effort
Wow, I'm proud of AvE not having to remind himself "righty tighty, lefty loosey".
Just remember when your working on things and thinking its an easy job. Your only 1 broken bolt away from a 20 minute job turning into a 2 day ordeal.
When I can't get pressure on a bit for lack of access or a bad angle, if possible, a bar to use as a lever wedged off of the back of the drill body to whatever behind saves the day. Impromptu drill press.
Nothing in life prepares you for your first broken extractor.
I find leading with "red hot curse words and rage" helps me ; )
The JD repair manual states to first remove the left track assembly. Then proceed to drill and extract. Flat rate is 0.25 hr. Why you no try?
You got yourself a toofer- 2 for one. Got the old out, and made yourself a new one. Should last half as long as it did the first time.
If his luck is like mine it'll probably last long than the new "quality" 🔩
Predrill with a smaller bit(but not too small, otherwise it will break too easy), then predrill near big and then big. Because of the last small step the drill-bit will bite like hell and that's what you want in this case. But be carefull, maybe use the torque limiter of the drill , (expect it to seize(also the drillbit needs to be big enough to take the torque when it suddenly seizes/or use a weak drill)), otherwise you can hurt you.