Timestamps Unboxing: 1:01 Fully assembled: 5:27 Scx24 visual comparison: 8:10 First run: 10:23 Indoor course run: 12:33 What I like: 19:09 What I don’t like: 23:21 Final thoughts: 26:38
For reference, the "reverse problem" is because the ESC is not in crawler mode. The mode it's in is Fwd/Brk/Rev which is kind of a basher truck type of setting. When you push the throttle to "reverse" the first time, it should actually engage the braking function. Switching it to a crawler setting should give you an "automatic" brake or "drag brake".
Nice video Adam Bud. Reverse thing is that its Forward/brake/reverse, so when u want to reverse it brakes first until u let ur finger off then it reverse’s. Its a double tap reverse Bud. May tell u how to change it in the instructions. Sorry if you have already been told this, i havent read any of the comments below. Hope this helps you out 👍🏻👍🏻
I will check that out! I will admit, I did not read the manual. The forward/stop/reverse is exactly what it's doing, so it certainly sounds like user error.
I’ve said since I 1st saw the fcx24 that it was 1/18 scale. FMS has a Unimog that looks like the same chassis & it’s sold as 1/18. Think I’ll make my own 1/24 Power Wagon.
Cool looking rc truck. I just picked up a Fms fj cruiser. Same as this with the very slow smooth crawl control. Reverse on the fj is smooth and not jumpy like this model.
your reverse issue can be fixed by playing with the 1st dip switch the idea is that if you're in 2nd gear, an immediate reverse would, over time, screw up the drive train. However, if you're just gonna crawl, play with the dip switch and you'll be good. EDIT: Matt (he's coming at ya :P) with 2FM RC has a great video explaining some FCX stuff: ruclips.net/video/4dPsVeOmnGg/видео.html
Glad to hear it was user error on my part! And the pause function makes sense for the reasons you pointed out. 2FMRC was/is much more on top of this than I!
@@CapeCrawlers No worries, dude. its not exactly an obvious functionality. I bought my FCX24 literally in the hour before I watched your video. I can't wait! Glad to hear that its fast enough to hold a 4 year old's interest! Your vid on comparing the furitek komodo and the Mofo SMP in the SCX24 was super interesting seeing as I bought them both too! :P Keep up the great content, bud!
Looks like a lot of fun! I've been eyeballing one of those for a little while, might have to go ahead and get one. Seems pretty capable though. Thanks for another great video Adam, take care!!!
It’s a lot of fun! The versatility of the two speed transmission is amazing, and a game changer if you’re used to scx24’s like I am. The reverse issue was user error, and now I like it even more!
The reverse might be adjustable not sure. The esc is in the racing mode, if your running forward & push the trigger it should be applying the brake. To reverse you need to double pump. Road cars are that way. The esc needs to be set to crawler mode if possible.
I’m still running my stock tires they do great actually, I also switched out the steering wheel on the radio from the SCX 24 radio The V2 radio because it has the foam on the wheel they are interchangeable
do you think this is a better way to go over an scx24? im looking to get into the 1/24 seen and i need to make my first purchase , a new rig, either the fms fcx24 or a scx24, so any advice would be great. how is the aftermarket coming along for this model? and also a general question for aftermarket parts could people give me some website info to look into , i have no idea on where to find parts for these little guys. thanks everyone
@@jasonanderson7020 There is much more aftermarket for the SCX24 but the FCX24 market is growing fast. Both brands are good out of the box but both can be made much better with mods. FCX is a two speed and much faster in high gear than an SCX so it's the only choice between the two if you want to take it for a walk and keep up with you (trailing). The SCX crawls better out of the box but is too slow for anything else. So it depends on what you want to do. It's easier to turn the FCX into a crawler than it is to make the SCX a speedy trail truck. Both are possible though. The best advice is to look at the bodies and choose what you would rather have. IMO the FCX is best looking but comically stubby in length. The only SCX24 I would buy is the Gladiator or Bronco (a hard body like the FCX24 PowerWagon). The C10 is nice looking but has inferior electronics as do the other series 1 models. The difference is big in modulation and the series 2 has a light controller on the esc and the series 1 doesn't. The FCX has bigger screws but if your eyesight is great that might not be a factor to consider. I have SCX (C10, Gladiator and Bronco) HBX (forget I mentioned that POS), and FCX24 PowerWagon. The Gladiator is best out of the box but the Bronco and Powerwagon are my favorite after minimal mods. Anything you buy will need heavy wheels or heavy weights, but in doing so will cause the SCX to need a better steering servo but no one makes one as weak or off size than the damned SCX ones. Both brands apptimize the saying 'nothing is perfect'. Axial does not even strive for it. FMS it seems does.
@@jasonanderson7020 That's a tough question. The FMS is mighty impressive out of the box with the standard features it has. But I do think it's experiencing some growing pains. The plastic gears strip easy for example, as do the hexes. FMS is great to work with and quick to replace broken parts, so that helps. The aftermarket is just ramping up for the FCX and also experiencing growing pains. The Axial is tried and true and pretty much bullet proof except for the weak servo from the factory. Plus you get options for body styles, colors, etc. So I guess the short answer is to get what appeals to you the most. They're all super fun, and you WILL end up getting multiples of them, so don't sweat your decision too much.
Read up on the micro switches on your transmitter. Just flip the left one. I stripped out two portal gears carriers day one on this. Also the wire for the lights broke by taking off the cab (no slack and barely long enough to reach). The Yellow one is just as cool. The clips on this is nothing less than hateful on SMS part. The wheelbase is too short and the center of gravity is too high. The rolling on your downhill is not because it is front heavy it is because it is top heavy along with the comical wheelbase which will effect uphill and sidehill as well. Out of the box it deserves no more than 2 stars because it is too fragile, off scale, short wires, and stupid body clips, and poorly designed gear carriers. There are parts and procedures for all of this though that make it a solid 5 with some work.
@@CapeCrawlers I had the top critical review of the WOW distributer on Amazon with 1 generous star (it has to actually work to get more than one and mine didn't). They sent me a full set of metal axle gears as well as some other parts and I changed my review to 5 stars. Out of the box it is a nice trail truck but as a crawler it needs some work like all other brands do. Mine has some reconfigured locations, extended wheelbase, droop, steel wheels, scrambler tires, weight, patina, and a very light utility bed. The drag brake does not work well enough to hold it in high gear but is enough to put stress on it when stopping if going fast. Use 100% drag and forward/reverse for crawling but zero drag brake and forward/brake/reverse for high gear trailing.
Hey brother merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 doing a shock 🛢 o ring upgrade on my new fcx24 calling it Ronald McDonald haha ..I was glad to see metal portal gears but very little grease so gonna marine grease mine cheers 🍻
How much roll back/forward should I be getting with this sitting on hills/ obstacles? Am getting about 1/4 wheel roll is this normal? Feels like it didnt use to do this
You can customize the drag brake using the little switches in the center of the controller. If you’re getting too much roll, you can increase the drag brake to slow/stop it.
@@CapeCrawlers It's the left dipswitch on your controller. Speaking of dipswitches the right 2 are the drag brake and these should be zero percent (both switches down) for high gear and should be 100% (both switches up) for crawling in low. The other switch is for battery type I believe.
Timestamps
Unboxing: 1:01
Fully assembled: 5:27
Scx24 visual comparison: 8:10
First run: 10:23
Indoor course run: 12:33
What I like: 19:09
What I don’t like: 23:21
Final thoughts: 26:38
For reference, the "reverse problem" is because the ESC is not in crawler mode. The mode it's in is Fwd/Brk/Rev which is kind of a basher truck type of setting. When you push the throttle to "reverse" the first time, it should actually engage the braking function.
Switching it to a crawler setting should give you an "automatic" brake or "drag brake".
Yep, the only problem was the operator!
Hello from southeast alaska those trucks look funny I think. Body looks to big for truck in my opinion
You can fix the reverse issue with the small white switches on the radio. They are ESC settings that can be changed. Its all in the manual.
Nice video Adam Bud. Reverse thing is that its Forward/brake/reverse, so when u want to reverse it brakes first until u let ur finger off then it reverse’s. Its a double tap reverse Bud. May tell u how to change it in the instructions.
Sorry if you have already been told this, i havent read any of the comments below.
Hope this helps you out 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you! I am glad to hear it was user error! I like it even more now 👍🏻
You can make it forward/reverse and forward/stop/reverse.
It’s in the instructions…
I will check that out! I will admit, I did not read the manual. The forward/stop/reverse is exactly what it's doing, so it certainly sounds like user error.
You’re going to love it dude, I’ve had mine for a month now or so they are a blast
I do love it. I took five rigs out the other day and only used the FCX!
I’ve said since I 1st saw the fcx24 that it was 1/18 scale. FMS has a Unimog that looks like the same chassis & it’s sold as 1/18. Think I’ll make my own 1/24 Power Wagon.
Seeing it next to the deadbolt reinforces your point about the scale. It is so much larger than the scx24 in every dimension.
Love mine, great little crawler
What’s the run time with stock battery?
Cool looking rc truck. I just picked up a Fms fj cruiser. Same as this with the very slow smooth crawl control. Reverse on the fj is smooth and not jumpy like this model.
The Fj looks great!
All of them are that way with reverse
your reverse issue can be fixed by playing with the 1st dip switch
the idea is that if you're in 2nd gear, an immediate reverse would, over time, screw up the drive train. However, if you're just gonna crawl, play with the dip switch and you'll be good.
EDIT:
Matt (he's coming at ya :P) with 2FM RC has a great video explaining some FCX stuff: ruclips.net/video/4dPsVeOmnGg/видео.html
Glad to hear it was user error on my part! And the pause function makes sense for the reasons you pointed out. 2FMRC was/is much more on top of this than I!
@@CapeCrawlers No worries, dude. its not exactly an obvious functionality.
I bought my FCX24 literally in the hour before I watched your video. I can't wait! Glad to hear that its fast enough to hold a 4 year old's interest!
Your vid on comparing the furitek komodo and the Mofo SMP in the SCX24 was super interesting seeing as I bought them both too! :P
Keep up the great content, bud!
Looks like a lot of fun! I've been eyeballing one of those for a little while, might have to go ahead and get one. Seems pretty capable though. Thanks for another great video Adam, take care!!!
It’s a lot of fun! The versatility of the two speed transmission is amazing, and a game changer if you’re used to scx24’s like I am. The reverse issue was user error, and now I like it even more!
The reverse might be adjustable not sure. The esc is in the racing mode, if your running forward & push the trigger it should be applying the brake. To reverse you need to double pump. Road cars are that way. The esc needs to be set to crawler mode if possible.
Definitely user error on my part. There's a setting to eliminate the brake in between forward and reverse.
We all have brain farts form time to time
Turn the controller upside down works pretty good I hear
I’m still running my stock tires they do great actually, I also switched out the steering wheel on the radio from the SCX 24 radio The V2 radio because it has the foam on the wheel they are interchangeable
Interesting! Did you just bind the Scx24 remote to the FCX esc?
@@CapeCrawlers It sounds like he is using the fcx transmitter with the wheel, off the scx24 transmitter.
do you think this is a better way to go over an scx24? im looking to get into the 1/24 seen and i need to make my first purchase , a new rig, either the fms fcx24 or a scx24, so any advice would be great. how is the aftermarket coming along for this model? and also a general question for aftermarket parts could people give me some website info to look into , i have no idea on where to find parts for these little guys. thanks everyone
@@jasonanderson7020 There is much more aftermarket for the SCX24 but the FCX24 market is growing fast. Both brands are good out of the box but both can be made much better with mods. FCX is a two speed and much faster in high gear than an SCX so it's the only choice between the two if you want to take it for a walk and keep up with you (trailing). The SCX crawls better out of the box but is too slow for anything else. So it depends on what you want to do. It's easier to turn the FCX into a crawler than it is to make the SCX a speedy trail truck. Both are possible though. The best advice is to look at the bodies and choose what you would rather have. IMO the FCX is best looking but comically stubby in length. The only SCX24 I would buy is the Gladiator or Bronco (a hard body like the FCX24 PowerWagon). The C10 is nice looking but has inferior electronics as do the other series 1 models. The difference is big in modulation and the series 2 has a light controller on the esc and the series 1 doesn't. The FCX has bigger screws but if your eyesight is great that might not be a factor to consider. I have SCX (C10, Gladiator and Bronco) HBX (forget I mentioned that POS), and FCX24 PowerWagon. The Gladiator is best out of the box but the Bronco and Powerwagon are my favorite after minimal mods. Anything you buy will need heavy wheels or heavy weights, but in doing so will cause the SCX to need a better steering servo but no one makes one as weak or off size than the damned SCX ones. Both brands apptimize the saying 'nothing is perfect'. Axial does not even strive for it. FMS it seems does.
@@jasonanderson7020 That's a tough question. The FMS is mighty impressive out of the box with the standard features it has. But I do think it's experiencing some growing pains. The plastic gears strip easy for example, as do the hexes. FMS is great to work with and quick to replace broken parts, so that helps. The aftermarket is just ramping up for the FCX and also experiencing growing pains. The Axial is tried and true and pretty much bullet proof except for the weak servo from the factory. Plus you get options for body styles, colors, etc. So I guess the short answer is to get what appeals to you the most. They're all super fun, and you WILL end up getting multiples of them, so don't sweat your decision too much.
Read up on the micro switches on your transmitter. Just flip the left one. I stripped out two portal gears carriers day one on this. Also the wire for the lights broke by taking off the cab (no slack and barely long enough to reach). The Yellow one is just as cool. The clips on this is nothing less than hateful on SMS part. The wheelbase is too short and the center of gravity is too high. The rolling on your downhill is not because it is front heavy it is because it is top heavy along with the comical wheelbase which will effect uphill and sidehill as well. Out of the box it deserves no more than 2 stars because it is too fragile, off scale, short wires, and stupid body clips, and poorly designed gear carriers. There are parts and procedures for all of this though that make it a solid 5 with some work.
You make solid, accurate points! I think it earned the extra two stars from me due to the fun factor. I appreciate the input!
@@CapeCrawlers I had the top critical review of the WOW distributer on Amazon with 1 generous star (it has to actually work to get more than one and mine didn't). They sent me a full set of metal axle gears as well as some other parts and I changed my review to 5 stars. Out of the box it is a nice trail truck but as a crawler it needs some work like all other brands do. Mine has some reconfigured locations, extended wheelbase, droop, steel wheels, scrambler tires, weight, patina, and a very light utility bed. The drag brake does not work well enough to hold it in high gear but is enough to put stress on it when stopping if going fast. Use 100% drag and forward/reverse for crawling but zero drag brake and forward/brake/reverse for high gear trailing.
Can't wait to see those upgrades. 👍
I'll do a follow up video real soon! Now that I know the reverse issue was my fault and I've learned more about the truck, it deserves a follow up.
very good video.thanks!
Thank you
👍🏻👍🏻
that reverse issue is a feature for most rc cars.. its so you dont accidentally go full reverse..
It was new to me, but definitely was user error.
The body is molded in red plastic so as it wears it'll look like rust
I kinda like the thought of that actually!
Hey brother merry Christmas 🎅 🎄 doing a shock 🛢 o ring upgrade on my new fcx24 calling it Ronald McDonald haha ..I was glad to see metal portal gears but very little grease so gonna marine grease mine cheers 🍻
Merry Christmas! Have fun with that thing!
@@CapeCrawlers will do brother
How much roll back/forward should I be getting with this sitting on hills/ obstacles? Am getting about 1/4 wheel roll is this normal? Feels like it didnt use to do this
You can customize the drag brake using the little switches in the center of the controller. If you’re getting too much roll, you can increase the drag brake to slow/stop it.
@Cape Crawlers the controller I got with mines doesnt have any of the switches like yours fms says theres a supply issue?
I think you have to double click reverse on those one's
If that's true, and it's just user error, I would be thrilled!
@@CapeCrawlers It's the left dipswitch on your controller. Speaking of dipswitches the right 2 are the drag brake and these should be zero percent (both switches down) for high gear and should be 100% (both switches up) for crawling in low. The other switch is for battery type I believe.
did your jeep gladiator get bigger!!
Been hittin the gym brahhhh :)
@@CapeCrawlers 🤣
Lee Helen Gonzalez Thomas Lewis George
Question
Are these small beasts you have do well in soft sand?
Talking about 🏜 desert sand
These do okay. The two-speed transmission helps keep speed and momentum up. Some wider tires would make it perform a lot better in the sand.
Hello from southeast alaska those trucks look funny I think. Body looks to big for truck in my opinion .
The body is big. The truck is pretty much ALL cab.
@@CapeCrawlers other than that it's a great truck
I think you have to double click reverse on those one's .