Wow...when I look at the paint list from Tamiya it is always daunting, but the way you introduce it with the build in stages is much appreciated and far easier. You clearly show that you dont need that many paints especially under the chassis which is weathered anyway. Im getting the other one from Tamiya (M1046) as a trial for a new spray gun and will certainly be looking at this vid many times during the build to make the build easier. Thanks for this and the many you do. It is really helpful and I certainly have learnt a lot from watching it. Thanks also for clearing up what paint to use for the body as I was literally tearing the hair out of my head trying to find an alternative to Tamiyas suggestive mix of paints, something I do not want to do!
Oh my God! I bought this kit because I served on one of these in the Gulf War, but now I am SO intimidated! You nailed it. Just amazing! Maybe I should stick to Legos...
Nice to see another one of your videos and another vehicle in the museum. As always, great work - clear, concise and excellent production values. Can't wait for more......................
Thanks much for the compliment! Best advice I've ever received with regard to painting and weathering is to "model what you see". This means don't be concerned as much with procedures, checklists, absolute color specifications, and the never-ending mantra of "you must do this or that". You will get bogged down and confused. Approach everything with realism in mind and the rest will fall into place. Look at the real thing or a reference photo and reproduce what you see. If you don't know how to reproduce something, learn how to do it, but always approaching it from "model what you see". If the instructions say "green" or you read that "at the factory they used this or that", but you see a much lighter shade on the real thing, use a lighter shade. Model what you see. Start by learning how to use and clean an airbrush and then learn how to apply paint consistently without overdoing it. Next, learn all about washes, oil paint rendering, and pigments, all of which are going to provide most of your “realism”. And again, model what you see. Hope that helps some!
@@mnscalemodeler3217 thanks a lot for the advice. Will stick to the approach you suggested and yes am researching a lot especially on RUclips when it comes to paint. Its another world.
@@tarekelwazzi7768 No problem! It definitely is a new world! I would recommend checking into Michael Rinaldi's TankArt book series. They are a must for realism modeling.
This is one of my most wanted build! Great job sir for that perfect work! Amazing skills, i’m a begginer modeler, well sort of (first model was a jeep 25 or so years ago, and just started just recently with M1a1). I’m following your methods sir, thanks for the inspiration!
MN Scale Modeler Thanks, just a quick one, you dont seem to seal off your model. I mean semi gloss for decal placement and ease of applying washes and weathering then final seal of matt or flat coat?
Good catch! Yep. As much as possible, I avoid clear coats altogether, unless something is required to protect one layer from another (my preference). Clear coats almost always alter the colors of what's underneath, even if only slightly. This becomes even more apparent after multiple layers. A gloss coat that is not effectively flattened afterwards is one of the worst killers of realism (in most cases, especially AFVs), and most matte clear coats are the worst at altering the colors below. I used to be a clear coat junkie because that is how I was trained, until I started using oil paint rendering to do my weathering and saw the benefits of avoiding them...increased realism. Since all I'm really using is Tamiya paints topped with oils for weathering, there's usually no need to seal much. They don't interact with each other. I actually pick my paints on purpose to avoid clear coats. Oil paints spread just fine on Tamiya paint and having a bit of resistance to movement is actually a benefit as it allows for more control. If it's not moving enough, you just need to add more thinner to the brush. I use Bob Ross odorless thinner, which does not do anything to Tamiya paints (same case with most odorless modeling-based oil thinners as well). The only places I clear coat is with AK Ultra Matte underneath a hairspray layer (to protect against removing the chipping layer along with the hairspray later on) and underneath decals, and only a spot application right where the decal will be placed, not over the entire vehicle. This is just some added security against possible damage from the Walthers solvaset (although I'm pretty sure this is not necessary. I've just not got around to testing it). I then use the same clear coat to protect the decals after they are dried...again just a quick spot coat. I use AK Ultra Matte as in my experience, it's been the best at producing a clear matte coat, not the milking-white coats we usually see with matte clear coat products. In other words, it does not drastically alter the colors underneath (although it can if you build up layers of it). For this reason, I also never finish coat a build. I would rather preserve the realism and just handle them with care. This is not to say that clear coats are never used. If you use paints or products that will interact with each other, it's necessary. And some subjects will look more realistic with some gloss, such as a freshly-shined showroom auto or a Thunderbirds F-16. But even in the case of the Thunderbirds Viper, a high gloss clear coat will still make it look like a toy. Semi-gloss is much more realistic for scale, and even then it may need to be kicked down a bit with a very, VERY light matte coat, depending on the amount of semi-gloss. Whew! I wrote a book there!
Wow! That was some informative reply, hah! Got one of your secrets for realism! :D Thank you for that info, i actually was on the verge of getting one of those mr. top coat flat, but have second thoughts upon reading ur insight. Im using tamiya enamels as well, would ammo enamel wash harm it without top coat? If im going to use oils, im gonna use tamiya enamel thinner as well.. Btw, i think im gonna get that book of yours photographing models, im an amateur photographer as well, and looking forward to improve my skills :D
Cool on the book! Hope you enjoy it! Photography is a love of mine going back years. I had a blast writing the book, combining two passions into one! I'm actually using Tamiya acrylics (or at least what they call acrylics), not enamels. It's pretty much my main paint for all builds. I sprinkle in some Lifecolor and MIG acrylics as well as some Alclad lacquers for metal surfaces (Tamiya metals are not that good), but 99% of my painting is with Tamiya acrylics. I pretty much avoid enamels, thus I'm not a good judge on what will and won't work with them. I know that acrylics can be harmed by lacquer thinner and paints, so that would be a situation where you would need to clear coat. This is why when I use Aclad, I usually spray it on first, followed by any acrylics afterward. I experimented a lot with paints years ago to see what works and doesn't. After it was all settled, I decided that I would stick with Tamiya acrylics as my main source of paint. They are easy to find, cheap, easy to thin, spray wonderfully through an airbrush unlike other acrylics (though not quite as good as lacquers but close), chip well, have no harsh smells or chemicals, and are very easy to clean up after. I also realized that for realistic metal, I would need something else, thus the reason for Alclad (although I'm thinking of Mr. Paint lacquers for the future as Alclads have a relatively short shelf life and their bottle caps are horrible!).
Very nice work. You nailed it. Used to see those types of HMWV used by the MPs during the 1st Gulf War. My SP Arty unit used the thin skinned cargo type for support. I'm wondering if there is a conversion kit for this model to make it a cargo type as well. My last unit, 7th ID, used cargo type Hummers to pull our M119 Towed Howitzers. it's a shame about the tires of this kit, but those resin ones looked great. Keep em coming!
Novice modeller here. Question how come you used black as the color for priming? Why not use white? Love your job btw - looks so good i think it would pass for the real thing in a photo.
Nov. 24, 2018---Great looking kit & build, BUT why don't the manufacturers give the modeler the option of having open doors on these vehicles? Built the Italeri Humvee about 20 years ago and now tearing it apart to make my own molds for door frames and doors.
MN Scale Modeler try make a Generation Kill version of this kit like removing the roof, the doors, add some rucksacks, Jerry cans some ammo pouches and some scratch build parts
I have 1 critique on your videos, many of the stills have writing, by the time we read it the image is onto the next one. We can't read and look at the model at the same time. Please slow it down. Otherwise good job.
![[ChannelMo] รีวิวรถ HMMWV ที่ครอบครองโดยประชาชน แต่งเต็มที่สุดในไทย](/img/1.gif)
Wow...when I look at the paint list from Tamiya it is always daunting, but the way you introduce it with the build in stages is much appreciated and far easier. You clearly show that you dont need that many paints especially under the chassis which is weathered anyway. Im getting the other one from Tamiya (M1046) as a trial for a new spray gun and will certainly be looking at this vid many times during the build to make the build easier. Thanks for this and the many you do. It is really helpful and I certainly have learnt a lot from watching it. Thanks also for clearing up what paint to use for the body as I was literally tearing the hair out of my head trying to find an alternative to Tamiyas suggestive mix of paints, something I do not want to do!
Thanks much! Glad it helped out!
Looks exactly as it were in 1991. Excellent work.
Breath taking!
Oh my God! I bought this kit because I served on one of these in the Gulf War, but now I am SO intimidated! You nailed it. Just amazing! Maybe I should stick to Legos...
Thanks Gabe! Don't sweat it. Go for it! It's much easier than you think!
Nice to see another one of your videos and another vehicle in the museum. As always, great work - clear, concise and excellent production values. Can't wait for more......................
Thank you!
Very nice work.
This is absolutely gorgeous. Also, Thanks for the Paint list!
Thanks! No problem!
Oh god, looking it in 2020, but its looks veeery good and realistic, oh, its really good dude!
Thanks!
So beautiful and very inspiring! This made me think to buy and try doing one of this.. Im just very impressed
Thanks much! You should try one! Great kit!
The finishing is at another level. Am just starting with these and finding doing a normal paint job difficult.
Thanks much for the compliment! Best advice I've ever received with regard to painting and weathering is to "model what you see". This means don't be concerned as much with procedures, checklists, absolute color specifications, and the never-ending mantra of "you must do this or that". You will get bogged down and confused. Approach everything with realism in mind and the rest will fall into place. Look at the real thing or a reference photo and reproduce what you see. If you don't know how to reproduce something, learn how to do it, but always approaching it from "model what you see". If the instructions say "green" or you read that "at the factory they used this or that", but you see a much lighter shade on the real thing, use a lighter shade. Model what you see.
Start by learning how to use and clean an airbrush and then learn how to apply paint consistently without overdoing it. Next, learn all about washes, oil paint rendering, and pigments, all of which are going to provide most of your “realism”. And again, model what you see. Hope that helps some!
@@mnscalemodeler3217 thanks a lot for the advice. Will stick to the approach you suggested and yes am researching a lot especially on RUclips when it comes to paint. Its another world.
@@tarekelwazzi7768 No problem! It definitely is a new world! I would recommend checking into Michael Rinaldi's TankArt book series. They are a must for realism modeling.
Awesome, love it👍
That’s some epic skills!
Thanks!
2:32 “Lost 2 mirrors… to an alternate universe…”
Q: Do you have cats?
Q: Did they ever turn up? If so, where?
Looks fantastic mate!
Thanks man!
Another masterpiece! Truly stunning... so lifelike. I've said it before, but your weathering is perfect. I'm looking forward to your next one :)
Wish it was perfect! I always see all the mistakes when I make these videos. LOL! Thanks for the compliment!
This is one of my most wanted build! Great job sir for that perfect work! Amazing skills, i’m a begginer modeler, well sort of (first model was a jeep 25 or so years ago, and just started just recently with M1a1). I’m following your methods sir, thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks! Good luck with your builds! I'm also a "restarter". You're gonna have a great time!
MN Scale Modeler Thanks, just a quick one, you dont seem to seal off your model. I mean semi gloss for decal placement and ease of applying washes and weathering then final seal of matt or flat coat?
Good catch! Yep. As much as possible, I avoid clear coats altogether, unless something is required to protect one layer from another (my preference). Clear coats almost always alter the colors of what's underneath, even if only slightly. This becomes even more apparent after multiple layers. A gloss coat that is not effectively flattened afterwards is one of the worst killers of realism (in most cases, especially AFVs), and most matte clear coats are the worst at altering the colors below. I used to be a clear coat junkie because that is how I was trained, until I started using oil paint rendering to do my weathering and saw the benefits of avoiding them...increased realism.
Since all I'm really using is Tamiya paints topped with oils for weathering, there's usually no need to seal much. They don't interact with each other. I actually pick my paints on purpose to avoid clear coats. Oil paints spread just fine on Tamiya paint and having a bit of resistance to movement is actually a benefit as it allows for more control. If it's not moving enough, you just need to add more thinner to the brush. I use Bob Ross odorless thinner, which does not do anything to Tamiya paints (same case with most odorless modeling-based oil thinners as well).
The only places I clear coat is with AK Ultra Matte underneath a hairspray layer (to protect against removing the chipping layer along with the hairspray later on) and underneath decals, and only a spot application right where the decal will be placed, not over the entire vehicle. This is just some added security against possible damage from the Walthers solvaset (although I'm pretty sure this is not necessary. I've just not got around to testing it). I then use the same clear coat to protect the decals after they are dried...again just a quick spot coat. I use AK Ultra Matte as in my experience, it's been the best at producing a clear matte coat, not the milking-white coats we usually see with matte clear coat products. In other words, it does not drastically alter the colors underneath (although it can if you build up layers of it). For this reason, I also never finish coat a build. I would rather preserve the realism and just handle them with care.
This is not to say that clear coats are never used. If you use paints or products that will interact with each other, it's necessary. And some subjects will look more realistic with some gloss, such as a freshly-shined showroom auto or a Thunderbirds F-16. But even in the case of the Thunderbirds Viper, a high gloss clear coat will still make it look like a toy. Semi-gloss is much more realistic for scale, and even then it may need to be kicked down a bit with a very, VERY light matte coat, depending on the amount of semi-gloss.
Whew! I wrote a book there!
Wow! That was some informative reply, hah! Got one of your secrets for realism! :D
Thank you for that info, i actually was on the verge of getting one of those mr. top coat flat, but have second thoughts upon reading ur insight. Im using tamiya enamels as well, would ammo enamel wash harm it without top coat? If im going to use oils, im gonna use tamiya enamel thinner as well..
Btw, i think im gonna get that book of yours photographing models, im an amateur photographer as well, and looking forward to improve my skills :D
Cool on the book! Hope you enjoy it! Photography is a love of mine going back years. I had a blast writing the book, combining two passions into one!
I'm actually using Tamiya acrylics (or at least what they call acrylics), not enamels. It's pretty much my main paint for all builds. I sprinkle in some Lifecolor and MIG acrylics as well as some Alclad lacquers for metal surfaces (Tamiya metals are not that good), but 99% of my painting is with Tamiya acrylics. I pretty much avoid enamels, thus I'm not a good judge on what will and won't work with them. I know that acrylics can be harmed by lacquer thinner and paints, so that would be a situation where you would need to clear coat. This is why when I use Aclad, I usually spray it on first, followed by any acrylics afterward.
I experimented a lot with paints years ago to see what works and doesn't. After it was all settled, I decided that I would stick with Tamiya acrylics as my main source of paint. They are easy to find, cheap, easy to thin, spray wonderfully through an airbrush unlike other acrylics (though not quite as good as lacquers but close), chip well, have no harsh smells or chemicals, and are very easy to clean up after. I also realized that for realistic metal, I would need something else, thus the reason for Alclad (although I'm thinking of Mr. Paint lacquers for the future as Alclads have a relatively short shelf life and their bottle caps are horrible!).
Great job! I like your use of oils... I to like to implement them.....
Thanks!
Very nice
Very nice work. You nailed it. Used to see those types of HMWV used by the MPs during the 1st Gulf War. My SP Arty unit used the thin skinned cargo type for support. I'm wondering if there is a conversion kit for this model to make it a cargo type as well. My last unit, 7th ID, used cargo type Hummers to pull our M119 Towed Howitzers.
it's a shame about the tires of this kit, but those resin ones looked great. Keep em coming!
Thanks much! Will do!
I am looking for the Model kit that you used mainly to recreate Humvee overseas.
Awesome
Thanks!
Novice modeller here. Question how come you used black as the color for priming? Why not use white? Love your job btw - looks so good i think it would pass for the real thing in a photo.
Wow looks great! I just ordered the brand new 1/10 scale RC version. Gonna have to do some weathering like this. Like and sub!
Thanks much!
❤👌👍
Thanks!
Nov. 24, 2018---Great looking kit & build, BUT why don't the manufacturers give the modeler the option of having open doors on these vehicles? Built the Italeri Humvee about 20 years ago and now tearing it apart to make my own molds for door frames and doors.
I really want this kit but it's discontinued.
Can I substitute the colours with desert yellow and olive green?
Don't see why not!
MN Scale Modeler try make a Generation Kill version of this kit like removing the roof, the doors, add some rucksacks, Jerry cans some ammo pouches and some scratch build parts
*What's the name of machine gun?*
I'm not sure off the top of my head the actual model, but I believe it's a grenade launcher.
I have 1 critique on your videos, many of the stills have writing, by the time we read it the image is onto the next one. We can't read and look at the model at the same time. Please slow it down. Otherwise good job.
Thanks for the feedback! Always try to keep the videos as efficient and relevant as possible. I'll try to add a bit more time between frames. Thanks!
Can't believe this old kit is $35 plus shipping on Ebay or Amazon. No way will I ever pay those prices.
2003 is old? OK then. It's a great kit and worth every penny in my book. Had a blast building it!