THE very BEST video of the several I looked at: your machine obviously does not open from the back - like mine; good photography of your hands on the idler and motor pulleys as well as positioning the belt; and the ONLY video in which the instructions are groove side down on both the drum and under the motor pulley, then showing the smooth side going over the idler wheel as it's pulled toward the center of the machine. And good reminders of the clips that go into the slots - at least on my 8 year-old Hotpoint. Thanks for making it! The Good Lord and you made my installation a success - something I'd have called someone else to do years before!!! You saved me almost $250 in service call, labor time, parts, and tax! Thanks much!
Just replaced a belt in my GE dryer with this video as a guide. Excellent work here. Truly step by step and made it easy on me. Listened to every piece twice and it still only took about fifteen minutes and most of that was double checking what I was doing. THANK YOU!
Thank you so much! Even with Home Warranty, it would have cost me 100 just for them to come out. I paid 20 for the belt and my dryer is up and running again. Thanks!
I need help. At 5:18 in the video, there is enough slack in the belt to just slip it over the motor pulley, but with my new belt, it is like a full inch away from the pulley, no matter how I situate it, so I have no idea how I'm supposed to get it around the pulley. I'm certain I have the correct belt for my dryer. Also, when I held my old and new belt together, the old one is about an inch longer than the new, but I didn't think too much about that, just thought maybe it had stretched from use, but. . . .Please help.
This is one of the nicest "how to" videos I've ever seen, but I'm hung up on the first step. No matter how hard I push inward with my putty knife, I cannot disengage the clips so I can remove the top panel. I haven't used a hammer yet to tap or pound on the putty knife handle yet, but maybe I need to? What am I doing wrong?
Two big omissions. First you have to look at the frame around the door to find the label that tells the model number so you can buy the correct belt. And there are two screws at the top of the door frame that must be removed to be able to lift the top. Not all models are the same.
Thanks for the video, Best one by far. The belt broke & my dryer stopped working. Found out my drum glides were completely burned up. Do you recommend replacing rear drum bearing if drum glides are burned up? I'm not sure if I should buy just the felt with the glides & glue, or should I get the complete bearing kit? THANKS
Every one of these I watch don't seem to have the front panel below the drum that I have makes it impossible for me to get my arms back there to release the belt or to install a new one every one of these is wide open my GE is not
Great video. One thing @ 03:05 you mention the idler pulley off hand. That if it wasn't moving freely to lubricate it. Just a heads up, you want to be very careful lubricating that as the belt comes in direct contact with the pulley. If you get any lubricant on the belt it can cause it to slip. If a belt picks up any lubricant it has a tendency to spread it across all surfaces it touches. You don't want to get any lubricant on the belt at all. You need friction for the belt to grip. If the belt starts slipping it leads to weird squeaking noises and irregular barrel movement, it goes faster and slower which can make the dryer vibrate excessively. (Yeah I know, just from a little lubricant on the belt. Speaking from experience) Good luck out there.
after replacing the belt, the dryer will only run while holding the start button, it heats up ok and the drum rotates, but when I let go of the button, it stops. it is a hotpoint
If your model has the idler pulley mounted on a metal rod that sits in a channel in the base of the dryer, the spring tension is achieved by the tensile strength of the metal rod itself.
THE very BEST video of the several I looked at: your machine obviously does not open from the back - like mine; good photography of your hands on the idler and motor pulleys as well as positioning the belt; and the ONLY video in which the instructions are groove side down on both the drum and under the motor pulley, then showing the smooth side going over the idler wheel as it's pulled toward the center of the machine. And good reminders of the clips that go into the slots - at least on my 8 year-old Hotpoint. Thanks for making it! The Good Lord and you made my installation a success - something I'd have called someone else to do years before!!! You saved me almost $250 in service call, labor time, parts, and tax! Thanks much!
I watched 5 other videos before this one and this is the Only that showed me the correct why to put on the new belt
Thank you, Thank you
Just replaced a belt in my GE dryer with this video as a guide. Excellent work here. Truly step by step and made it easy on me. Listened to every piece twice and it still only took about fifteen minutes and most of that was double checking what I was doing. THANK YOU!
This is the best video as far as opening the cabinet, too. (I have an Electrolux but it's the same.)
Thank you so much! Even with Home Warranty, it would have cost me 100 just for them to come out. I paid 20 for the belt and my dryer is up and running again.
Thanks!
Excellent!
You guys are lifesavers. What a perfect video to show how to do this
GREAT video.I didn't know it would be that easy.It really helped showing how the belt went around the tensioner.
I need help. At 5:18 in the video, there is enough slack in the belt to just slip it over the motor pulley, but with my new belt, it is like a full inch away from the pulley, no matter how I situate it, so I have no idea how I'm supposed to get it around the pulley. I'm certain I have the correct belt for my dryer. Also, when I held my old and new belt together, the old one is about an inch longer than the new, but I didn't think too much about that, just thought maybe it had stretched from use, but. . . .Please help.
You helped me sleep in my dryer
This is one of the nicest "how to" videos I've ever seen, but I'm hung up on the first step. No matter how hard I push inward with my putty knife, I cannot disengage the clips so I can remove the top panel. I haven't used a hammer yet to tap or pound on the putty knife handle yet, but maybe I need to? What am I doing wrong?
2:16 It's hard to find a video that shows the belt/tensioner switch like this. Thanks!
Two big omissions. First you have to look at the frame around the door to find the label that tells the model number so you can buy the correct belt. And there are two screws at the top of the door frame that must be removed to be able to lift the top. Not all models are the same.
Thanks for the video, Best one by far. The belt broke & my dryer stopped working. Found out my drum glides were completely burned up. Do you recommend replacing rear drum bearing if drum glides are burned up? I'm not sure if I should buy just the felt with the glides & glue, or should I get the complete bearing kit? THANKS
Although the rear bearing may still be serviceable, we would recommend replacing the complete kit since you will have the dryer apart.
***** I did,Thanks
Every one of these I watch don't seem to have the front panel below the drum that I have makes it impossible for me to get my arms back there to release the belt or to install a new one every one of these is wide open my GE is not
Are all belt on front loader dryers”similar to the one in this video” serviceable from the front panel being removed?
Great instructions, thank you!
Great video. One thing @ 03:05 you mention the idler pulley off hand. That if it wasn't moving freely to lubricate it. Just a heads up, you want to be very careful lubricating that as the belt comes in direct contact with the pulley. If you get any lubricant on the belt it can cause it to slip.
If a belt picks up any lubricant it has a tendency to spread it across all surfaces it touches. You don't want to get any lubricant on the belt at all. You need friction for the belt to grip. If the belt starts slipping it leads to weird squeaking noises and irregular barrel movement, it goes faster and slower which can make the dryer vibrate excessively. (Yeah I know, just from a little lubricant on the belt. Speaking from experience) Good luck out there.
Great advice! Thank you for sharing
after replacing the belt, the dryer will only run while holding the start button, it heats up ok and the drum rotates, but when I let go of the button, it stops. it is a hotpoint
You may have dislodged the harness to the motor or you may have a defective motor switch. What is your model number?
Thank You🌸
what is the belt size number?
Great video, thanks a lot
hi does anyone know what model # this dryer might be?i have same dryer but model sticker is missing need to order parts plz help..
tino8080 DBXR463ED2WW
I can’t get my drum out
Wth my idler pulley is just a rod and no springs
If your model has the idler pulley mounted on a metal rod that sits in a channel in the base of the dryer, the spring tension is achieved by the tensile strength of the metal rod itself.
Whirlpool dryer to put belts
It still want spin