I am such a stickler at making sure my plaids match, it makes me crazy when they don't line up. It's highly painful to do sometimes, but so worth it in my opinion to match them all up :) Such a cute jacket, I love both of your versions!
As others suggest I would try putting paper under the fabric for the buttonholes. Maybe tear-away stabiliser on top as well. Another solution is sewing another placket behind, maybe in the same as your undercollar and in that way gettin a hidden button placket. And thirdly put in metal snaps, in maybe gunmetal colour. I haven’t serviced my overlocker, only cleaned it as much as I can and oiled it. Oiling seemes very important I’ve noticed. But my machine is an old mechanical Husqvarna Huskylock, maybe it’s different with electronical ones.
As sewists, I think most of us try to match checks and tartans but most high street ready to wear isn’t matched at all. One of the, many, things I like about your channel is that we actually get to see you sew sometimes.
HI Sally! My machine hates to do button holes on thicker fleece, so I ended up sewing the buttons on, but under it I used large snaps so I could close the jacket. I also just saw a tip on another coat making video, where they recommended using a piece of water soluable interfacing (like those used in embroidery) or tissue paper under the fabric and/or on top, so the fuzziness doesn't get caught in the feed dogs. Apparently it also helps keep the stiches from sinking into the fabric. I haven't tried this yet, but plan to test it. Let us know if you test it. Thanks!
Your jacket looks so warm and cosy! My Janome is fussy about what thread I use and is very temperamental about button holes especially when the fabric is thick or nubbly. I often resort to snaps in those cases as you can now get them in a range of colours and sizes. I’ve just had my sewing machine and overlocker serviced and they are running so much smoother even though I try to keep them clean after each use. The person who services my machines picks up and drops off for every service so that is pretty much the service you imagined!
Hi Sally. Love the jacket. I made my Ilford in some boucle and my machine would not do button holes. But it did do a close zigzag OK. So I zigzagged both end of the button hole on the machine and then bound the sides by hand and it seems to have worked out OK. The boucle stretches a bit so I made the button hole a bit smaller than I would normally. I've not worn the jacket much since making it so can't vouch for how well this will last. I'm interested to see how you do yours. Well done with the check matching too.
Lovely Jacket. For button holes, you can put magnets and sew the pretty button on top just for looks. Or do the button holes by hand with a thicker embroidery thread.
Thanks so much Sally. Really enjoyed watching you sew the Ilford. I have been eyeing this pattern for a long time and I think you have persuaded me to give it a try. Absolutely love your version.
Really like your jacket. Turned out very nice. Hope you have found the right buttons for it. I plan to make something similar to this style. Enjoy watching you on RUclips!
Thank you for sharing about your reading. It gives an hint of what is on in the UK for us abroad. I generally test my buttonholes on a scrap of the same fabric of the garment before actually sewing them and you said you cut a big piece to shorten your jacket. That could serve your purpose!
It's interesting that the sleeves go in flat. I don't think I've seen another woven fabric pattern that does that. It turned out beautifully, using the black for the under collar was a great idea.
Sally, What a nice jacket. You did a great job matching the pattern. When you test the button holes on a scrap of fabric, try putting a piece of stabilizer underneath, against the feeddogs. That might help. If you don't have stabilizer, use a scrap of pattern paper. Don't use anything as heavy as copier paper, use thin paper. Good luck. Another option might be to put belt loops on the jacket and make a belt out of either the plaid fabric or the black fabric you used for the undercollar. Suzanne
Thanks so much for those tips! I think I'm going to look for some poppers although I have been wearing the jacket all weekend without any buttons, I must make sure they don't get forgotten haha x
I am loving the sewing and books content. I read and enjoyed The Birdcage. I need to pick up The Glass House as I have it on my bookcase. I am tempted to attempt sewing the Sew Liberated Sylvan jacket in corduroy, fingers crossed!
What a lovely jacket, I need something like this as well for spring! I cleaned and lubricated my sewing machine but not my overlocker (yes, only had it for over a year).
Morning Sally. Home cleaning on an overlocker sounds a great idea. In general, I have my sewing machine serviced once a year and I have another machine I can use whilst it’s away. My overlocker hasn’t been serviced which is very bad as it’s just a workhouse and is wonderful. I don’t have a spare if it goes for service. The shop where I take my machine sends them ( he collects them once a week) to an engineer and it is returned to the shop in about two weeks.
When I’ve made coats with fabric that didn’t go under machine for button holes, I used poppers - a friend found some large poppers - about 2.5 cm on eBay for me and they are good and sturdy then you can just add buttons on the top and most people will never know the difference! You make your garments so beautifully it would be a shame if your machine wrecked it at a most visible point! I’ve also done bound buttonholes on thick fabric, you could use the black fabric from the under collar and that is a great finish. It’s a hark back to bespoke clothes but not a difficult technique. Thanks for the book recommendations, I’ve just read The Clockmaker’s Daughter by Kate Morton, which I really enjoyed, it made me want to find out more about The Pre-Raphaelites. Lovely to have breakfast with you on Sunday morning as ever! ❤
Thanks so much for that tip I was thinking of doing something similar and I never think to try other button hole techniques- I must do. I’ve read the Clockmakers Daughter it’s a great book isn’t it. Thank you so much for watching xz
I love how your jacket turned out. So nice on you! You convinced me to try the Ilford. Have you considered snaps instead of buttons. Brass color would look suit the black and white check. I liked your teal green sweater. The look of the fabric is cozy looking. I was looking for something that weight and feel. What is the fabric?
I downloaded VERITY back in November and returned it to the library very quickly. I never could get into it and while I almost always finish every book I start, I just couldn’t with this novel. I haven’t tried her other book that you mentioned, so I will probably try that one soon. The jacket turned out gorgeous! Great job.
I pattern-matched a Robert Kauffman flannel for the Myositis which I have just to hem. I about I am proud of the matching. It was directional and non- symmetrical. That was a process
I really enjoyed this video Sally, thank you. The Ilford is on my list of makes, so your sewalong and observations are really helpful. I do hope the two buttonhole solutions help you. I haven’t read your latest library books, so I’ll be interested to hear your reviews ! Thanks for taking the time to make the video Sally x
For the checked Myositis which I mentioned in the other comment I too did the overlocking like you did. I also used the walking foot. I can now go strong convex and concave curves on the overlocker. I find concave edges more easy
Love your jacket. Great job on matching the checks. Love checks but I am not that confident yet and have had some really bad results…lol. Thanks so much for a wonderful video!
I had the same problem with the nova coat as I used a really thick boucle fabric and although it doesn’t have buttons I wanted to add some. The fabric was too thick when I tried to sew the buttonholes so I hand sewed some chunky press studs and added the buttons on the outer side of the coat, I’ve been really pleased with the finish as I can wear it fastened up. 🧵✂️🪡
It’s annoying isn’t it because it’s the last part of a coat you’ve put so much work into! I was thinking the same actually, press studs with buttons on top I’ll have to see if I can get some! Thank you for watching xx
How about very big shapes and sew the button on. So the button is on the outside of the button band and the snap is behind it. That then snaps into the other half on the other buttonband
Hi, I’ve been sewing for over 30 years and have never had a sewing machine or overlocker serviced. I keep them lint free, particularly the overlockers which I clean throughout the projects, oil them if that’s required and change the knife when required.
Hi, great video. I love the jacket and sering your process. For me I'd put press studs hand sewn with the buttons on the outside. Or no buttons at all. Thank you. 😊
I had my sewing machine (pfaff 720) serviced after about a year of use and asked the shop what they would advise me on how often to service. This is really dependent on how much you use the machine. They adviced me to have it serviced about every 3 years or so. I didnt have my overlocker serviced yet (I own it about 4-5 years, but don't use it that often) but might do so in the near future.
My sewing machine would not be able to sew buttonholes on thick fabric like that. whenever I struggle with my sewing machine I outsource button holes to a local seamstress who has an industrial buttonhole machine. it is really frustrating as I would love to be able to finish my own garments but I understand that it is a very common issue with domestic sewing machines.
Ooh I never knew one could do such a thing! Perhaps it's your machine, mine is usually very good so I think it probably was the cotton. Thank you for watching xx
I love your jacket! It looks great on you. Do the pockets you used come with the Ilford pattern or did you take them from another pattern? I really like your pockets. Thanks for sharing your make!!
My sewing machine needs a service, too. My overlocker was new 18 months ago and I've not yet had it serviced. Have you changed the needles in the overlocker? I find that makes a difference with the sound it makes. I am making a jacket with a Minerva pre quilted fabric. I think my machine would be OK with making buttonholes in it, but I have chosen to use metal snaps, the type that requires a tool to attach them, not sew in ones, which always look messy when I've done them.
Do you know I haven't changed the needles in ages - thank you for the reminder. I'm good at remembering to change them in the sewing machine but not the overlocker for some reason xx
When you consider the speed of the overlocker, I think they probably need changing at least as often as those in the sewing machine, if not more frequently. It is easy to forget, though. Overlockers are so forgiving :-)
I’m keeping my fingers crossed that your machine will do the buttonholes with the Gütermann thread! Otherwise you could see them by hand?? Just joking 🤣🤣🤣 xx
Great sewalong. When I first made the outfit I selected the wrong fabric and I made the long version and it wasn’t my favourite. I later made a short baby cord one which is great. I intended to add buttons but I just got on wearing it and the buttons never happened. I’m sure the new thread will sort it out. Have you tried tissue paper underneath? May not work or may not solve your problem. Fingers crossed for the thread success
Lovely video Sally, thank you. Would chunky metal snaps work on your jacket? The jacket looks really cosy. I have a Brother sewing machine and overlocker, i have them serviced annually. I have just had new blades and a new presser foot on my overlocker. I must say i never realised i might need a new presser foot.
Oh gosh no I would never have thought of that either. I think I’ll book mine in for a service next time we are away. I think snaps probably would work I need to have a look as I only have teeny ones that wouldn’t work. Thank you for watching xx
Service- hire much do you use it? But I would urge you to clean it. You will be horrified to funds out how much flux gets into the machine. I have some make up brushes to reach into the hard to reach areas. Occasionally I add a tiny drop of oil to the moving parts where the bits come into contact with each other
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I am such a stickler at making sure my plaids match, it makes me crazy when they don't line up. It's highly painful to do sometimes, but so worth it in my opinion to match them all up :) Such a cute jacket, I love both of your versions!
As others suggest I would try putting paper under the fabric for the buttonholes. Maybe tear-away stabiliser on top as well. Another solution is sewing another placket behind, maybe in the same as your undercollar and in that way gettin a hidden button placket. And thirdly put in metal snaps, in maybe gunmetal colour.
I haven’t serviced my overlocker, only cleaned it as much as I can and oiled it. Oiling seemes very important I’ve noticed. But my machine is an old mechanical Husqvarna Huskylock, maybe it’s different with electronical ones.
As sewists, I think most of us try to match checks and tartans but most high street ready to wear isn’t matched at all. One of the, many, things I like about your channel is that we actually get to see you sew sometimes.
Yes! I had a rtw garment recently that wasn't matched and it's made me realise it's ok if my makes aren't matched perfectly x
I'm glad you enjoy the sewing xx
HI Sally! My machine hates to do button holes on thicker fleece, so I ended up sewing the buttons on, but under it I used large snaps so I could close the jacket. I also just saw a tip on another coat making video, where they recommended using a piece of water soluable interfacing (like those used in embroidery) or tissue paper under the fabric and/or on top, so the fuzziness doesn't get caught in the feed dogs. Apparently it also helps keep the stiches from sinking into the fabric. I haven't tried this yet, but plan to test it. Let us know if you test it. Thanks!
I loved your previous green jacket and want to replicate it. Now I want to do your new one as well 😃
Your jacket looks so warm and cosy! My Janome is fussy about what thread I use and is very temperamental about button holes especially when the fabric is thick or nubbly. I often resort to snaps in those cases as you can now get them in a range of colours and sizes. I’ve just had my sewing machine and overlocker serviced and they are running so much smoother even though I try to keep them clean after each use. The person who services my machines picks up and drops off for every service so that is pretty much the service you imagined!
Oh that sounds great! I need to drop mine off usually and pick up. I think I hate the thought of being without it for two weeks haha x
You are talented sewer.
Thank you xx
Thankyou for this. I feel more confident now about sewing the Ilford after watching you. Your jacket is cute and the length is perfect.
I’m so glad it was helpful xz
Hi Sally. Love the jacket. I made my Ilford in some boucle and my machine would not do button holes. But it did do a close zigzag OK. So I zigzagged both end of the button hole on the machine and then bound the sides by hand and it seems to have worked out OK. The boucle stretches a bit so I made the button hole a bit smaller than I would normally. I've not worn the jacket much since making it so can't vouch for how well this will last. I'm interested to see how you do yours. Well done with the check matching too.
So glad I'm not the only one that struggles with button holes 🤣
Definitely not haha x
I sewed two Ilfords back in 2021 with a polyester flannel and it was still difficult to press. I’m glad you finished! It looks great.
Thank you! I guess a lot of cosy fabrics are the same aren’t they x
Lovely Jacket.
For button holes, you can put magnets and sew the pretty button on top just for looks. Or do the button holes by hand with a thicker embroidery thread.
Thank you for the tip! I've never tried doing buttonholes by hand it sounds scary but would be a good solution x
Thanks so much Sally. Really enjoyed watching you sew the Ilford. I have been eyeing this pattern for a long time and I think you have persuaded me to give it a try. Absolutely love your version.
Yay! I hope you enjoy sewing it xx
Really like your jacket. Turned out very nice. Hope you have found the right buttons for it. I plan to make something similar to this style. Enjoy watching you on RUclips!
Thank you very much! I went with bronze snaps in the end and they worked well :) x
Jacket looks lovely, it’s on my make list. Thanks for the sew along. Could you put poppers and just sew the buttons in for decoration
Thank you very much! I'm going to see what large poppers are available I think x
Thank you for sharing about your reading. It gives an hint of what is on in the UK for us abroad. I generally test my buttonholes on a scrap of the same fabric of the garment before actually sewing them and you said you cut a big piece to shorten your jacket. That could serve your purpose!
Thank you! I will do that when I get my new cotton xx
It's interesting that the sleeves go in flat. I don't think I've seen another woven fabric pattern that does that. It turned out beautifully, using the black for the under collar was a great idea.
Yes it is, nice and easy to sew :) xx
Sally, What a nice jacket. You did a great job matching the pattern. When you test the button holes on a scrap of fabric, try putting a piece of stabilizer underneath, against the feeddogs. That might help. If you don't have stabilizer, use a scrap of pattern paper. Don't use anything as heavy as copier paper, use thin paper. Good luck. Another option might be to put belt loops on the jacket and make a belt out of either the plaid fabric or the black fabric you used for the undercollar.
Suzanne
Thanks so much for those tips! I think I'm going to look for some poppers although I have been wearing the jacket all weekend without any buttons, I must make sure they don't get forgotten haha x
Love your jacket! What about snaps down front? This year wrap jackets with a fabric tie have been popular. So if all else fails…
The jacket looks great Sally. Costs and jackets are your speciality. Really looks super
Ah thank you!! xx
Hi Sally, another winner of a jacket. Thanks for sharing the process.
Thank you so much for watching xx
It's a beautiful jacket, Sally 🌸
Thanks so much xx
I enjoyed both of the books you mentioned. Havent read The Paper Palace. Love your coat.
I am loving the sewing and books content. I read and enjoyed The Birdcage. I need to pick up The Glass House as I have it on my bookcase. I am tempted to attempt sewing the Sew Liberated Sylvan jacket in corduroy, fingers crossed!
Sally, I like the jacket. You did a good job.
Thank you! I'm glad you like them xx
I really enjoyed this video. Thanks Sally. 🌺
Thank you for watching :) xx
I had the same problem so I used sew on snaps and sewed the buttons over the snaps.
Such a great idea thank you xx
I used prym Anorak snaps for a Logan Shacket I made recently in bouclé and they worked really well. I know they definitely come in black too 👍🏻😊
Ooh great thank you I’ll look for those x
Brilliant thank you so much ❤
Thanks for watching xx
What a lovely jacket, I need something like this as well for spring! I cleaned and lubricated my sewing machine but not my overlocker (yes, only had it for over a year).
Thank you, I hope it will be useful for the spring x
Morning Sally. Home cleaning on an overlocker sounds a great idea. In general, I have my sewing machine serviced once a year and I have another machine I can use whilst it’s away. My overlocker hasn’t been serviced which is very bad as it’s just a workhouse and is wonderful. I don’t have a spare if it goes for service. The shop where I take my machine sends them ( he collects them once a week) to an engineer and it is returned to the shop in about two weeks.
I think every year sounds about average. I must do it! Our shop does the same and sends them away I also have a spare machine so no excuse really x
Loving the look of the Ilford jacket. Thanks for the helpful video! I've just started reading Verity and must say I am enjoying it so far.
Thank you for watching! It'll be interesting to see what you think of Verity x
When I’ve made coats with fabric that didn’t go under machine for button holes, I used poppers - a friend found some large poppers - about 2.5 cm on eBay for me and they are good and sturdy then you can just add buttons on the top and most people will never know the difference! You make your garments so beautifully it would be a shame if your machine wrecked it at a most visible point! I’ve also done bound buttonholes on thick fabric, you could use the black fabric from the under collar and that is a great finish. It’s a hark back to bespoke clothes but not a difficult technique. Thanks for the book recommendations, I’ve just read The Clockmaker’s Daughter by Kate Morton, which I really enjoyed, it made me want to find out more about The Pre-Raphaelites. Lovely to have breakfast with you on Sunday morning as ever! ❤
Thanks so much for that tip I was thinking of doing something similar and I never think to try other button hole techniques- I must do. I’ve read the Clockmakers Daughter it’s a great book isn’t it. Thank you so much for watching xz
I love how your jacket turned out. So nice on you! You convinced me to try the Ilford. Have you considered snaps instead of buttons. Brass color would look suit the black and white check. I liked your teal green sweater. The look of the fabric is cozy looking. I was looking for something that weight and feel. What is the fabric?
I downloaded VERITY back in November and returned it to the library very quickly. I never could get into it and while I almost always finish every book I start, I just couldn’t with this novel. I haven’t tried her other book that you mentioned, so I will probably try that one soon. The jacket turned out gorgeous! Great job.
Thank you so much! Verity was a strange one and I can see why you couldn't get on with it. It's very hit or miss I think xx
I pattern-matched a Robert Kauffman flannel for the Myositis which I have just to hem. I about I am proud of the matching. It was directional and non- symmetrical. That was a process
Well done, that must have been quite a task! x
I really enjoyed this video Sally, thank you. The Ilford is on my list of makes, so your sewalong and observations are really helpful. I do hope the two buttonhole solutions help you. I haven’t read your latest library books, so I’ll be interested to hear your reviews ! Thanks for taking the time to make the video Sally x
Ah I'm glad, I'm sure you will love sewing the Ilford it's such a great pattern. I'll be sure to share about the books too xx
For the checked Myositis which I mentioned in the other comment I too did the overlocking like you did. I also used the walking foot. I can now go strong convex and concave curves on the overlocker. I find concave edges more easy
It's easier that way isn't it x
Love your jacket. Great job on matching the checks. Love checks but I am not that confident yet and have had some really bad results…lol. Thanks so much for a wonderful video!
Thank you so much! Don't be too worried about check matching, rtw garments are rarely matched x
Hello Sally, my Janome machine doesn’t like other threads either. I just have to stick with Gutermann and I know it’ll be happy 😊
It’s so funny isn’t it! That probably was the problem, I haven’t managed to get any more thread yet to test it out. Thank you for watching x
I had the same problem with the nova coat as I used a really thick boucle fabric and although it doesn’t have buttons I wanted to add some. The fabric was too thick when I tried to sew the buttonholes so I hand sewed some chunky press studs and added the buttons on the outer side of the coat, I’ve been really pleased with the finish as I can wear it fastened up. 🧵✂️🪡
It’s annoying isn’t it because it’s the last part of a coat you’ve put so much work into! I was thinking the same actually, press studs with buttons on top I’ll have to see if I can get some! Thank you for watching xx
Cute jacket 🎉
Thank you x
Love the jacket. Very useful, I'm sure. Really enjoyed this video Sally
Thank you so much for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it xx
How about very big shapes and sew the button on. So the button is on the outside of the button band and the snap is behind it. That then snaps into the other half on the other buttonband
Thanks for the tip! x
Hi, I’ve been sewing for over 30 years and have never had a sewing machine or overlocker serviced. I keep them lint free, particularly the overlockers which I clean throughout the projects, oil them if that’s required and change the knife when required.
You sound very organised with your cleaning I wish I could be like that ☺️ You must have saved a lot of money that way though xx
Hi, great video. I love the jacket and sering your process. For me I'd put press studs hand sewn with the buttons on the outside. Or no buttons at all. Thank you. 😊
Thank you for that tip it seems like a popular way around it! I will have a look for poppers - thank you for watching xx
Hoooray, the Ilford, my fav!
I’m obsessed with this pattern x
Big snaps maybe, with buttons on outside strip?
Thank you yes that might work x
What a beautiful jacket, great job. ❤
Thank you so much! x
I had my sewing machine (pfaff 720) serviced after about a year of use and asked the shop what they would advise me on how often to service. This is really dependent on how much you use the machine. They adviced me to have it serviced about every 3 years or so. I didnt have my overlocker serviced yet (I own it about 4-5 years, but don't use it that often) but might do so in the near future.
My sewing machine would not be able to sew buttonholes on thick fabric like that. whenever I struggle with my sewing machine I outsource button holes to a local seamstress who has an industrial buttonhole machine. it is really frustrating as I would love to be able to finish my own garments but I understand that it is a very common issue with domestic sewing machines.
Ooh I never knew one could do such a thing! Perhaps it's your machine, mine is usually very good so I think it probably was the cotton. Thank you for watching xx
I love your jacket! It looks great on you. Do the pockets you used come with the Ilford pattern or did you take them from another pattern? I really like your pockets. Thanks for sharing your make!!
Yes they did but they aren’t on any of the illustrations for some reason x
@@SecretLifeOfASeamstress Great! Thank you!!
My sewing machine needs a service, too. My overlocker was new 18 months ago and I've not yet had it serviced. Have you changed the needles in the overlocker? I find that makes a difference with the sound it makes. I am making a jacket with a Minerva pre quilted fabric. I think my machine would be OK with making buttonholes in it, but I have chosen to use metal snaps, the type that requires a tool to attach them, not sew in ones, which always look messy when I've done them.
Do you know I haven't changed the needles in ages - thank you for the reminder. I'm good at remembering to change them in the sewing machine but not the overlocker for some reason xx
When you consider the speed of the overlocker, I think they probably need changing at least as often as those in the sewing machine, if not more frequently. It is easy to forget, though. Overlockers are so forgiving :-)
I’m keeping my fingers crossed that your machine will do the buttonholes with the Gütermann thread! Otherwise you could see them by hand?? Just joking 🤣🤣🤣 xx
Haha never!! xx
Great sewalong. When I first made the outfit I selected the wrong fabric and I made the long version and it wasn’t my favourite. I later made a short baby cord one which is great. I intended to add buttons but I just got on wearing it and the buttons never happened. I’m sure the new thread will sort it out. Have you tried tissue paper underneath? May not work or may not solve your problem. Fingers crossed for the thread success
Oh thank you no I hadn’t thought of tissue paper. I’ve been wearing mine too and I think the same might happen 😂 x
Lovely video Sally, thank you. Would chunky metal snaps work on your jacket? The jacket looks really cosy. I have a Brother sewing machine and overlocker, i have them serviced annually. I have just had new blades and a new presser foot on my overlocker. I must say i never realised i might need a new presser foot.
Oh gosh no I would never have thought of that either. I think I’ll book mine in for a service next time we are away. I think snaps probably would work I need to have a look as I only have teeny ones that wouldn’t work. Thank you for watching xx
Would it clapper help pressing the hem?
Yes probably, I didn't use mine this time maybe I'll give it a little try soon xx
I’ve heard that there is a lot of normalizing of unhelpful relationships in and Hoovers’ books. Is this the case, would you say?
Yes I think there can be. I've only read two so far but I'm not in a rush to read more at the moment x
xXX👍👍👍
Toggle buttons? Large sew on snaps, on the inside of the button band, they wouldn’t show. Fur coat hooks.
Thank you so much for the suggestions x
Service- hire much do you use it? But I would urge you to clean it. You will be horrified to funds out how much flux gets into the machine. I have some make up brushes to reach into the hard to reach areas. Occasionally I add a tiny drop of oil to the moving parts where the bits come into contact with each other
I do clean them but still probably not as regularly as I should! Thanks for the tip x