No-Till Potato Trials
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2024
- We have reduced our potato production this year to work on our potato growing system. Potatoes are a crop that have, since we’ve been growing, very intensively managed in terms of soil disturbance. But in this video, we say funk that (remember that song? Anyone? It was about potatoes. Probably).
Hi all! I am loving this spring. We are jamming and I’m having fun. What about you all? Is it spring where you are? Fall? I am really into the fact that the Southern Hemisphere gets a break right as we’re gearing up. It’s a weird thing to be into, but have you ever listened to Australian Christmas songs!? They are so good. They’re all about eating green beans and chasing dingos. Anyway, PLEASE CLICK ALL THE LINKS!
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I tried starting potato "seedlings" once. I started an eye plus 1/4" of potato in pots in late winter when the gardening itch got too bad. It worked fine. When the weather was right, I planted the 9-12" plants through some thick mulch. I think this would be a good way to teach gardening to children. Starting, planting and harvesting were almost foolproof. Little fingers are also good at catching potato beetles once they are pointed out.
Looking forward to your findings. Thank you for this.
Tried Dowding's method last year. Worked a treat. Lots of nice clean potatoes.
I switched to the Ruth Stout (deep mulch) no-dig 3 years back for 'Taters. So far I've used lawn clippings ... but have only been doing 4 each 100 ft beds. This year I'm doubling to 8 beds and won't have enough grass (the yard's pretty big, but not *that* big to produce enough grass). Will fill in the rest with purchased hay. Have had no issues with weeds with the lawn clippings - most folks (including us) keep the lawn mowed to well below seed-head stage. I suspect the hay will drop a lot of weed seed, but we'll see...
The ease (virtually no effort) of both planting and harvesting made it a "keeper" method over the old dig and hill method. I don't hill, per se, but at flower/tuber time I run up and down the rows with a bit more mulch covering any tubers that have become exposed and grown through the mulch. Maybe 10% of 'em ... probably less.
BONUS: No weeding. No watering.
BOGUS: The Evil Vole Monsters LOVE the mulched beds.
3 rows x 10 inches for New Potatoes
2 rows x 16 inches for all else.
My biggest concern is the amount of compost used and associate cost. Folks don't want to spend a lot on Potatoes around here when they're so cheap in the grocery store.
If you don't mind my asking: How many yards of compost did you use and what's your cost on that?
Great question. So I would estimate it’s about 1.3 yards-ish. BUT the thing with that is I will pull the potatoes and immediately plant summer lettuce with no bed prep at all (save for possibly some alfalfa meal). So it’s set up for the year. Agreed, though, it’s a lot! Not a cheap bed to make, but I shouldn’t have to really add a mulch layer to it again like that until potatoes come back around. So in a way, I’m setting up these beds with a crop for a long haul, thus making it hard to tell what the true cost is. Are you just collecting yard clippings with a mower + bag? I’ve been thinking about this for both yard clippings and flipping beds with a mower and bag.
I've got one of those tow behind sweeper thingies. A bagger would be better - mow and pick it up in one shot. With the sweeper you have to make two passes. The mower spits out the clippings to the side, but the sweeper is towed behind ... they don't align and you have to make a mowing pass and a separate sweep/pickup pass.
Riding mower. We mow about 3 acres of the homestead plot. No way I'd do a push mower on that although I can see a use for a push mower _some_ crops in bed flipping. The way my beds are raised the riding mower would be useless.
I have been known, on occasion, to come in on a bed with the weedeater ... but it's messy. Throws the residue everywhere.
www.homedepot.com/p/Ohio-Steel-Professional-Grade-42-in-18-cu-ft-Lawn-Sweeper-42LS/202324252
Whoa. Would that sweeper work in kinda rough/hilly pasture? Or does it have to be FLAT flat?
Hilly is OK. Rough? Not so much. I bent up the axle/spindle on the previous one pulling it places I shouldn't have ...
@William Roach - Voles are crop munching little bastards.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vole
They're basically underground, tunneling mice that will eat every tuber and root crop you'd care to plant.
I've put my seed potatoes (Marabela) on the bed and covered with woodchips. Its an experiment too. Now I have to wait and see.
Watched Charles Dowdings potatoe videos and experimented myself. Planted in a lasagne bed not very deep then topped with lots of pea and lupin mulch . Fingers crossed. Debs from Down Under.
Add straw or salt hay ,on the potatoes ,keeps.the sun off and moisture in. Maybe wood chips then use them in walkway when harvesting.
I've been planting regular potatoes for 3 years, leftovers from the shop that have grown a few eyes/sprouted in bags etc. Never once have any diseases occurred. Been lucky! They are not diseased from the shop. Who'd buy and eat potatoes if they were diseased plants? People these days be fussy! ALSO i dont have money for seed potatoes and am not growing anywhere near this scale. But for a small operation id just experiment with leftover potatoes and save some cash. Then if i loved it, splash out on some fancy seed potatoes, or an exotic variety or something.
I gardened for the first time last year and was unable to afford seed potatoes until later in the season as the only local cheap source was sold out.
So I did grow some market ones and they did pretty okay, but even though the seed potatoes were a bit fewer in number and planted later they still out performed the ones from the supermarket.
They were all different varieties though so it is not exactly the best comparison.
This year I am growing from seed potatoes on time for food but I have also already planted my True Potato Seed. Most seed potatoes on the market have male fertility issues so they were of limited utility in my current project to develop a landrace for KY 6b conditions.
If I start new ground I put 18" of horse muck all over, dig trenches every 2'6", place spuds every 15" apart and cover with an inch or two of compost. The birds do all the back filling for me, it kills all but a few bold weeds such as docks and when you pull them they just lift out of the ground. The following year is beans/peas and there after as normal with everything else. It give fast soil improvement, weed control and a good depth of compost in one go. If I have them I will also put a good layer of oak leaves under the compost as well but never plant the spuds into them.
Great video, 4 inches of compost is some serious cubic yardage for those beds!
1.5 yards per bed to start! It’s almost a literal ton
@@notillgrowers
I put "6" yards on my new Mountain garden, 36'x48'. Each scoop, a "yard" weighed 2,000 lbs., plus or minus 100 lbs. Looks like nice compost, 20$ a yard. Hand shoveled out of my pickup. It's been cool and wet here, Northern Olympic Pennisula. Started cut potatoes 3rd week of may, some seed, some store organic. Cut pieces and hardened in house about 3 weeks. Sprouted out of ground looking good so far, 3" high, didn't mound, planted 2-3" deep. Morning temps still Mid to low 40's.
From my own small trials (all potatoes of the same variety), seeds given:
1) 8"x12" yielded 1.5 pounds / sqft
2) 8"x8" yielded 1.9 pounds / sqft
3) 6"x6" yielded 1.6 pounds / sqft
(1) had the largest potatoes
(3) had the smallest but most numerous
Organic veges, love it
Appreciate the accurate representation of seed potatoes, regulated for disease, variety trueness, and other quality measures. But commercial potatoes are not irradiated. Some late storage potatoes are “sprout nipped”, rendering the sprout unviable. There are both organic and synthetic products used for this. Fortunately our US food system offers many months per year of fresh production.
Is there any video on your potato harvest?
Hey buddy, hope you'll be reading this.
I always have heard flax is very good at repelling potato beetles. Ever heard/tried this before ?
What was the result of these trials Farmer Jesse?
It's tator time!
Great video! Wanted to do a similar trial this year, but more Gabe Brown style. Not looking like it's gonna happen unfortunately, due to the rebuild.
How's that going!? We're all hoping Ahavah's a full recovery!
I know we are going back a few years here, but I'm wondering if you remember the weight of seed potatoes you used? I'm particularly interested in the new potato bed. Thanks.
Lots of mulch is the missing factor here, if you ask me. Compost on good garden soil seems redundant to me, mulch is more important as a protective layer if your soil is already improved.
Wyatt Bottorff compost is mulch.
@@winterroadspokenword4681 I disagree. Why bake such high quality innoculant with UVs?
I hope it works out for you, I would add mulch
Did a follow up. The compost as mulch worked okay, but the soil still had issues. Harvest was insanely easy though. More mulch next time, for sure.
I just harvested my second bed of potatoes this year. It was my first time growing them. Most were golf ball sized. It just about destroyed the soil digging them up. Since i just learned about no till my soil isn't that great to begin with because I've been tilling for two years. Did he make a harvest video for these?
Yes
are you stepping on them in order to grow mashed potatoes ?
"Dramatization"
Hahahaha!
I always used seed potatoes, but my order didn't come through a few years back so I used shop bought regular 'taters. It worked out just fine. I don't live in the US So popping down the road to another supplier wasn't an option.
I now just keep aside smaller spuds to grow. I have never heard of irradiated potatoes, but they do spray some to stop chitting. My answer was to plant them a couple of weeks earlier than usual. I think it's six years now and everything just grows.
Hoping this info might be useful if anyone else is in the same position.
Is there an updated video showing if this worked?
It worked well for Charles Dowding,watch his video.
is there a follow up?
👍👍
Can you share a link to the update of this trial
They can be irradiated???
Closed captioning please please
You don’t need seed potatoes I use organic potatoes every year any no disease and grow lots of potatoes
It is cheaper to buy seed potatoes then buying organic in store. I buy in bulk seed potatoes for .99 cents a pound, 3 pounds of organic grocery store potatoes cost anywhere from $5-8.00 for 3 pound bag, very pricey here in 🇨🇦
no mulch
When are you pulling the taters? I'm curious to see how it all went.
I did a video called “The potatoes went okay” that I think you can find on my feed? Let me know if not! Thanks