Ahhh, this brings back memories. Leverage is everyone’s friend. When I was 17 years old, I was working on my newly purchased 1987 Ford Bronco. I was trying to get a bolt loose under my truck. Similar to you, I heated it up, used an impact wrench, cursed, threw things. Banged my knuckles up. Had a friend of the family come by, an old timer engineer. He was 75 years old and would climb under the truck with me, anytime I was working on it. This day was no different. He said, “calm down and regroup. You’ve got to be smarter then the object”. He gets a four foot pipe from his trunk(1967 Chevy Biscayne) and climbs back under the truck with me. He said, “you ever hear of leverage, you can move just about anything with it”. He puts the pipe on the end of my socket wrench and says, “one of three things will happen, it’ll loosen the bolt, break the bolt or break your socket wrench”. Go apply even steady pressure, while I keep the socket on the bolt”. I did and it loosened the bolt. I was amazed at how little pressure it needed to move the bolt. I miss that man, James Fitzgerald.
Perfect example of how not having the proper tools makes things much much harder. You need a set of 6 point sockets and a Big breaker bar. Any socket or box end wrench that has 12 points in it should just be thrown away. Never use those things they are only good at striping stuff out. But mainly with a bolt that big you just needed more leverage. Shouldnt ever need to hit a wrench with a hammer. With a breaker bar at least 18 inches long you most likely could have pushed on it and losened that bolt with one hand. Leverage is an amazing tool. That impact driver thing you had is great for removing stubborn screws but never a bolt as you found out. What would have been better would have been a proper impact wrench. The sort of thing you see people removing lug nuts with. After getting the right tools get a can of penitrating spray oil of some sort. That mix of stuff will make this sort of thing so much easier you wouldnt believe.
Mark, good videos. Thanks! This was very helpful, thank you.... Reason being: The order of the swing arm (rearmost) pivot bearing bolt and thrust washers published in both the Clymer and Suzuki manuals, is incorrect in the exploded view of the lever and lever arm (dog bone), . These manuals indicate that the thrust washer goes on the outside of the dog bone, whereas you noted (correctly) when you removed the bolt , that the thrust washer goes between the dog bone and the pivot spacer. This provides additional mechanical protection to the bearing seals, and a flat (ground) surface onto which the pivot spacer can seat (rather than being forced into the aluminium dog bone, and causing the bolt to loose tension as the dog bone wears against the spacer). The sectioned, assembled view of the dog bone, pivot bearing bolt and thrust washers appears correctly in the Reassembling Information sectioned drawing, chapter 5, page 45 of the Suzuki workshop manual.
I've just stripped my 1996 DR650 SE down to the frame to get re-powder coated and this bottom shock bolt is exactly the one that isn't moving for me either. Will give your method a go tomorrow having already tried multiple days of penetrating fluid, heat, 6 point sockets and a breaker bar. Thanks for making the video...really useful!
Hi Mark, great vid's as usual, very entertaining :) A couple of things that you may know, or if not, may come in useful in the future, 'Righty tighty, lefty loosey' for 99.9 % of nuts and bolts And the impact driver, you probably know, but you must make sure it's set to undo before striking it, Hold the driver, turn it in the direction you needed rotate the bolt as far as you can, hold the wrench firmly and whack it with the hammer. There's basically a spiral cut groove and a couple of ball bearings in there. When the hammer whacks it inwards, it turns that motion into a torque. The grooves are cut both ways, so winding the wrench in either direction forces the balls up the appropriate spiral. You need to hit them pretty hard, gentle taps won't do it - limited by judging the damage you'd do whacking whatever with the same force. May be of some use to you or someone else, keep up the videos, and 'keep on riding'
Mark some times you scare the hell out of me. Nay please do not put your head back under anything Mark is beating on with a dead blow hammer. Good video all the same. When all this goes back together have a torque wrench handy and use it. You do ever so often over tighten things. Got to love ya man for trying and getting things done. Ride free!!!
Hi Mark/Nay, I was just doing a bit of binge watching of your earlier videos and came across this. I need to do a similar exercise on my KLR650. ....... Your persistence and patience was awesome! I was really happy when you succeeded. Thanks to you both for sharing and for a valuable reminder "If at first yo u don't succeed. ......" Regards from S Africa Clive
Cool little inspirational plaque at the end. I have never seen that impact tool you used. What you need is an electric impact driver. They usually have a torque rating around 400-460 Nm. It's a big heavy corded drill. But you also need to buy impact specific sockets and extensions. Regular sockets will just split out if you use them on an impact driver. They cost $140-180 US depending on brand. Glad you finally got it.
The sections of you trying to get that nut off probably sold more impact guns than any advertisement Harbor Freight has ever run. Some of the damn bolts on these bikes are on there so tight, you could swear they were never actually designed to come off.
I could not for the life of me get the dog bones off that were bolted to the swingarm and then I remembered this video. Who in Hades thought it would be great to cement the damn nut on? I'm guessing the lawyers did. After watching the video again, our kind DR poster said, "you've just got to keep at it." So I did and then the big bolt creaked, oh shit I either sheared the bolt or loosened the nut. Success! I used five heat cycles with my propane torch allowing time for it all to cool down. You have to get it pretty hot but not red hot as there are rubber seals in there but get it quite hot because the the aluminum is just like a heat sink and will pull away too much heat. Then I used two 1/2" breaker bars for the 17mm & 19mm sockets and beat the hell out of it with a dead blow hammer. PITA. So thank you Mr. DR motivational speaker because I was just about defeated. I think I have a pulled muscle in my back.
In my xf650 I remove it from the bottom without touching the airbox. I just removed the rear bolt of the linkage, and move the linkage out of the way. It's worth a try on the DR too.
phew! I'm exhausted. Thanks, I enjoyed the drama. I did rear spring with a Strang replacement 3 years ago. Now time for rebuilt rear shock. BTW, I used Ricoh intiminators and low weight oil under front standard springs for a great result (I'm 85-87 kgs ready to ride). There seems to be a few decent solutions/improvements around for the front softness. Haven't seriously considered a steering damper yet but would love to hear how much difference it makes in the rough stuff
Awesome video as always. These problems always turn up in the "simple" jobs. I had. To replace a front brake caliper due to a seized cover plug. All for a new set a brake pads. The white crap on the bolt may have been corrosion from dissimilar metals. I'd put some anti seize on the threads when you reasemble. Also, GOOD penetrating oil. Not WD40, PB Blaster is decent, Seafoam Deep Creek is better, Kroil is supposed to be the best. Also you can make it yourself. 1 part Automatic transmission fluid, 1 part Acetone. Shake before use. Works very well. Get some 6 point sockets to help prevent stripping a bolt., a breaker bar, and a powered impact gun for the really tough stuff, they make 12V models for tire changes, and also some house current models. Best is air power, but that required a good size compressor. Looking forward to your reassembly and testing videos. That DR is awesome.
Very entertaining Mark and genuine, which is what I love about your vids. Next time try Wd40 & leverage first, then again would have robbed us of all the entertainment :) Cheers mate
Man that dog's trying to steal your thunder Ha Ha. I would have tried a socket with more leverage first .I've never had much success with those impact drivers, so I usually just drill a hole in the head of the bolt and use the easyouts/dovalacky/reverse tappa thing. I like the way you go about things and show everything to help others out. Even though these vids go for a long time I still watch them all. Cheers
I bet this would have helped you quite a bit thru the Simpson ride with all that weight., I imagine I might do these mods to my XR650l when the time comes. I'm glad it's you first tho, hehe
Biker Bits Glad your doing the suspension on the DR. its very under sprung for anyone over 13-140 lbs. If you don't like the shock re valve Consider the Cogent shock shaft assembly off. I'm going the expensive way and getting the Cogent Mojave Pro. that's an expensive bit of kit. But I trust CDD because the owner of cogent dynamics ACTUALLY rides a DR650 so he understands how much the suspension sucks for anything but fire roads I see your getting the gold valves. Did you ever consider the DDC? hahahaha this sounds like I'm advertising here but there's a lot of raved reviews about these products
+noah villalpando shoot! the suspension is undersprung even if the dr could drive itself. lol. I'm about to order the Mojave Pro shock from Cogent today. Can't wait!!! Todd over there has been conversing with me in depth regarding my riding style, weight, and other stuff. The Mojave pro sounds like the perfect thing for me. Man, wish i had it already
Great vid Mate... And the guys on here are dead right. A quality half inch six point socket and a three foot breaker bar would have it done in seconds. Cheap ring spanners don't grip enough of the head and round the corner, and open enders just splay open under heavy load. Because it was so tight t..once you cut the head off the bolt the load on the thread was removed and thats why it came out with the easy out.. I used to play with huge torque loads 1200 Foot pounds, you can guess the size of the tools. Stay safe Buddy.
been there before with a body mount bolt on my '65 El Camino. To this day, there is no bolt in one spot since i fucked that bolt up so badly trying to get it out...
Never give up! That's right!!! Way to persevere. Amazing how much grief one bolt can cause. We're looking forward to the next video. Thanks as always...
I have really enjoyed watching your entire series, but this one is forcing me to comment. Several people have said it - you need some proper tools. A breaker bar. At least 18 inches, preferably 22. Six point thick-wall sockets. A REAL impact wrench. Air or electric. BUT. Having said all that - next time (if you still don't have the proper tools), clamp the head of the bolt into the jaws of the vise, then use the entire body of the shock as your turning handle. That should give you enough leverage to break it loose. Yes, it needed a washer under it. I'm thinking not only did your threads stick (because of no anti-seize compound), but the corners of the bolt dug into the surface of the clevis, and that locked it in place. But I still think the bolt in the vise would have worked. Also, most motorcycles that come with a tool kit have a suspension adjusting spanner. It's a little doodad (that's a technical term) that has a handle, then a curved section that follows the curve of those nuts (at the top of the spring) for about a quarter of its circumference, and then there's a little square tip at the end that goes into the part you were beating on with the bolt. Works a treat! Spins those nuts right off! Of course, you'll need two to break the lock nut loose (the first one to hold one nut still while the second spins off the other nut). Great video, though, and you show that perseverance pays off!
Mark, it's comical watching you take the WRONG approach to every thing you do . . from an engineering perspective. Thanks for the show, it was both extremely frustrating and entertaing to watch! I gotta admire your "can-do" attitude, keep at it mate, you are going well.
Actually, even a pipe to extend that 3/8" ratchet would do the trick......you just needed a little more leverage. You were using the wrong tools on those tough ones. Nice video though!
they also sell a certain wrench for pre load adjustment, I got one for my dr 350 that you can adjust on the trail if between having luggage on your bike and not. www.thisoldtractor.com/dr350_shock_adjustment_wrench.html Im not sure if your new spring will raise your bike much, but lowering links might work, if it is higher.
“That’s anti-clockwise’…🤣🤣🤣 They are frigging tight. I have a 750mm breaker bar and I stopped and thought the same 👍🏻😁 Suzuki don’t stuff about with pussy-torque. 😳 Hammer and wrench maybe not the best 😳 but appreciate your enthusiasm 😁 1/2’ socket set and breaker bar for birthday 😁
i saved about half of this video by having the right tools, which this bloke doesn't. Three nuts took him a day and a half to get undone. They took me about 5 seconds each with a rattle gun. Demonstrating with completely inadequate tools is hopeless.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Ahhh, this brings back memories. Leverage is everyone’s friend. When I was 17 years old, I was working on my newly purchased 1987 Ford Bronco. I was trying to get a bolt loose under my truck. Similar to you, I heated it up, used an impact wrench, cursed, threw things. Banged my knuckles up. Had a friend of the family come by, an old timer engineer. He was 75 years old and would climb under the truck with me, anytime I was working on it. This day was no different. He said, “calm down and regroup. You’ve got to be smarter then the object”. He gets a four foot pipe from his trunk(1967 Chevy Biscayne) and climbs back under the truck with me. He said, “you ever hear of leverage, you can move just about anything with it”. He puts the pipe on the end of my socket wrench and says, “one of three things will happen, it’ll loosen the bolt, break the bolt or break your socket wrench”. Go apply even steady pressure, while I keep the socket on the bolt”. I did and it loosened the bolt. I was amazed at how little pressure it needed to move the bolt. I miss that man, James Fitzgerald.
Sounds like a legend.
A set of high quality 6 point sockets is priceless. Trials and tribulations, right? Great video Mark, thank you!
Perfect example of how not having the proper tools makes things much much harder. You need a set of 6 point sockets and a Big breaker bar. Any socket or box end wrench that has 12 points in it should just be thrown away. Never use those things they are only good at striping stuff out. But mainly with a bolt that big you just needed more leverage. Shouldnt ever need to hit a wrench with a hammer. With a breaker bar at least 18 inches long you most likely could have pushed on it and losened that bolt with one hand. Leverage is an amazing tool.
That impact driver thing you had is great for removing stubborn screws but never a bolt as you found out. What would have been better would have been a proper impact wrench. The sort of thing you see people removing lug nuts with.
After getting the right tools get a can of penitrating spray oil of some sort. That mix of stuff will make this sort of thing so much easier you wouldnt believe.
Mark, good videos. Thanks! This was very helpful, thank you.... Reason being: The order of the swing arm (rearmost) pivot bearing bolt and thrust washers published in both the Clymer and Suzuki manuals, is incorrect in the exploded view of the lever and lever arm (dog bone), . These manuals indicate that the thrust washer goes on the outside of the dog bone, whereas you noted (correctly) when you removed the bolt , that the thrust washer goes between the dog bone and the pivot spacer. This provides additional mechanical protection to the bearing seals, and a flat (ground) surface onto which the pivot spacer can seat (rather than being forced into the aluminium dog bone, and causing the bolt to loose tension as the dog bone wears against the spacer). The sectioned, assembled view of the dog bone, pivot bearing bolt and thrust washers appears correctly in the Reassembling Information sectioned drawing, chapter 5, page 45 of the Suzuki workshop manual.
I've just stripped my 1996 DR650 SE down to the frame to get re-powder coated and this bottom shock bolt is exactly the one that isn't moving for me either. Will give your method a go tomorrow having already tried multiple days of penetrating fluid, heat, 6 point sockets and a breaker bar. Thanks for making the video...really useful!
Hi Mark, great vid's as usual, very entertaining :)
A couple of things that you may know, or if not, may come in useful in the future,
'Righty tighty, lefty loosey' for 99.9 % of nuts and bolts
And the impact driver, you probably know, but you must make sure it's set to undo before striking it,
Hold the driver, turn it in the direction you needed rotate the bolt as far as you can, hold the wrench firmly and whack it with the hammer.
There's basically a spiral cut groove and a couple of ball bearings in there. When the hammer whacks it inwards, it turns that motion into a torque. The grooves are cut both ways, so winding the wrench in either direction forces the balls up the appropriate spiral.
You need to hit them pretty hard, gentle taps won't do it - limited by judging the damage you'd do whacking whatever with the same force.
May be of some use to you or someone else, keep up the videos, and 'keep on riding'
Mark some times you scare the hell out of me. Nay please do not put your head back under anything Mark is beating on with a dead blow hammer. Good video all the same. When all this goes back together have a torque wrench handy and use it. You do ever so often over tighten things. Got to love ya man for trying and getting things done. Ride free!!!
This is one of my next jobs for my DR - so perfect timing to see how you do all this! Thanks Mark!
Hi Mark/Nay,
I was just doing a bit of binge watching of your earlier videos and came across this.
I need to do a similar exercise on my KLR650. .......
Your persistence and patience was awesome! I was really happy when you succeeded.
Thanks to you both for sharing and for a valuable reminder "If at first yo u don't succeed. ......"
Regards from S Africa
Clive
Cool little inspirational plaque at the end. I have never seen that impact tool you used. What you need is an electric impact driver. They usually have a torque rating around 400-460 Nm. It's a big heavy corded drill. But you also need to buy impact specific sockets and extensions. Regular sockets will just split out if you use them on an impact driver. They cost $140-180 US depending on brand. Glad you finally got it.
The sections of you trying to get that nut off probably sold more impact guns than any advertisement Harbor Freight has ever run. Some of the damn bolts on these bikes are on there so tight, you could swear they were never actually designed to come off.
I could not for the life of me get the dog bones off that were bolted to the swingarm and then I remembered this video. Who in Hades thought it would be great to cement the damn nut on? I'm guessing the lawyers did. After watching the video again, our kind DR poster said, "you've just got to keep at it." So I did and then the big bolt creaked, oh shit I either sheared the bolt or loosened the nut. Success! I used five heat cycles with my propane torch allowing time for it all to cool down. You have to get it pretty hot but not red hot as there are rubber seals in there but get it quite hot because the the aluminum is just like a heat sink and will pull away too much heat. Then I used two 1/2" breaker bars for the 17mm & 19mm sockets and beat the hell out of it with a dead blow hammer. PITA. So thank you Mr. DR motivational speaker because I was just about defeated.
I think I have a pulled muscle in my back.
Bloody Good Job! :-) Cheers... Mark
haha i'm relieved you finally got that bolt off. Perhaps in the new one add some copper anti seize
In my xf650 I remove it from the bottom without touching the airbox. I just removed the rear bolt of the linkage, and move the linkage out of the way. It's worth a try on the DR too.
phew! I'm exhausted. Thanks, I enjoyed the drama.
I did rear spring with a Strang replacement 3 years ago. Now time for rebuilt rear shock. BTW, I used Ricoh intiminators and low weight oil under front standard springs for a great result (I'm 85-87 kgs ready to ride). There seems to be a few decent solutions/improvements around for the front softness.
Haven't seriously considered a steering damper yet but would love to hear how much difference it makes in the rough stuff
Socket and breaker bar would have made that a lot easier.
Awesome video as always. These problems always turn up in the "simple" jobs. I had. To replace a front brake caliper due to a seized cover plug. All for a new set a brake pads.
The white crap on the bolt may have been corrosion from dissimilar metals. I'd put some anti seize on the threads when you reasemble.
Also, GOOD penetrating oil. Not WD40, PB Blaster is decent, Seafoam Deep Creek is better, Kroil is supposed to be the best. Also you can make it yourself. 1 part Automatic transmission fluid, 1 part Acetone. Shake before use. Works very well.
Get some 6 point sockets to help prevent stripping a bolt., a breaker bar, and a powered impact gun for the really tough stuff, they make 12V models for tire changes, and also some house current models. Best is air power, but that required a good size compressor.
Looking forward to your reassembly and testing videos. That DR is awesome.
+kens97sto171 Going to remember the Kroil thing. Hadn't seen that before. Thanks, man!
You, my friend, need some 1/2" breaker bars! Make quick work of those tough bolts
It may have been worth trying an hydraulic jack under the spanner to slowly force it round as you jacked it up. Good video :)
The Butcher . Bloody hell !
Mark you got to use 6 point sockets or wrenches for that hi torque stuff. 12 point will round the nuts over.
Excellent video. This shit happens to real people... glad you filmed it.
Gotta love the swing arm for displaying your website .
My RUclips channel is on mine .
Wow you went threw hell to get that bolt out, Im glade everything worked out good in the end.... Cool Vid
I'm surprised you didn't try several hot cold cycles. That usually works for me.
Very entertaining Mark and genuine, which is what I love about your vids.
Next time try Wd40 & leverage first, then again would have robbed us of all the entertainment :)
Cheers mate
Man that dog's trying to steal your thunder Ha Ha. I would have tried a socket with more leverage first .I've never had much success with those impact drivers, so I usually just drill a hole in the head of the bolt and use the easyouts/dovalacky/reverse tappa thing. I like the way you go about things and show everything to help others out. Even though these vids go for a long time I still watch them all. Cheers
I bet this would have helped you quite a bit thru the Simpson ride with all that weight., I imagine I might do these mods to my XR650l when the time comes. I'm glad it's you first tho, hehe
Hi, please advise. what amount of oil for the rear shock absorber without expansion tank for suzuki DR 650?
Question: Could the seized bolt have been prevented (without using grease) by using a washer?
Please get a breaker bar or an impact gun! My 22" breaker bar cost me £4! I hardly ever use it but when moments like this come up its a godsend!
+Ross Churcher - no worries mate! :-)
Hey guys, here is my EPIC adventure of removing the rear suspension from MAX the DR650 :-) Hope you enjoy :-) Cheers... Mark
C-Spanner and a Spring compressing tool.
Biker Bits Glad your doing the suspension on the DR.
its very under sprung for anyone over 13-140 lbs.
If you don't like the shock re valve Consider the Cogent shock shaft assembly off. I'm going the expensive way and getting the Cogent Mojave Pro.
that's an expensive bit of kit.
But I trust CDD because the owner of cogent dynamics ACTUALLY rides a DR650 so he understands how much the suspension sucks for anything but fire roads
I see your getting the gold valves. Did you ever consider the DDC?
hahahaha this sounds like I'm advertising here but there's a lot of raved reviews about these products
+noah villalpando shoot! the suspension is undersprung even if the dr could drive itself. lol. I'm about to order the Mojave Pro shock from Cogent today. Can't wait!!! Todd over there has been conversing with me in depth regarding my riding style, weight, and other stuff. The Mojave pro sounds like the perfect thing for me. Man, wish i had it already
Its a lot easier to remove the seat and air filter box then take the shock out the top.
Great vid Mate... And the guys on here are dead right. A quality half inch six point socket and a three foot breaker bar would have it done in seconds. Cheap ring spanners don't grip enough of the head and round the corner, and open enders just splay open under heavy load. Because it was so tight t..once you cut the head off the bolt the load on the thread was removed and thats why it came out with the easy out.. I used to play with huge torque loads 1200 Foot pounds, you can guess the size of the tools. Stay safe Buddy.
been there before with a body mount bolt on my '65 El Camino. To this day, there is no bolt in one spot since i fucked that bolt up so badly trying to get it out...
Never give up! That's right!!! Way to persevere. Amazing how much grief one bolt can cause. We're looking forward to the next video. Thanks as always...
My 2006 DR with 8K miles on it, the bump stop is deteriorated. I don't ride it in the dirt, it lives on the highway/road.
I have really enjoyed watching your entire series, but this one is forcing me to comment. Several people have said it - you need some proper tools. A breaker bar. At least 18 inches, preferably 22. Six point thick-wall sockets. A REAL impact wrench. Air or electric.
BUT. Having said all that - next time (if you still don't have the proper tools), clamp the head of the bolt into the jaws of the vise, then use the entire body of the shock as your turning handle. That should give you enough leverage to break it loose. Yes, it needed a washer under it. I'm thinking not only did your threads stick (because of no anti-seize compound), but the corners of the bolt dug into the surface of the clevis, and that locked it in place. But I still think the bolt in the vise would have worked.
Also, most motorcycles that come with a tool kit have a suspension adjusting spanner. It's a little doodad (that's a technical term) that has a handle, then a curved section that follows the curve of those nuts (at the top of the spring) for about a quarter of its circumference, and then there's a little square tip at the end that goes into the part you were beating on with the bolt. Works a treat! Spins those nuts right off! Of course, you'll need two to break the lock nut loose (the first one to hold one nut still while the second spins off the other nut).
Great video, though, and you show that perseverance pays off!
+William Stadelman Thanks heaps for all that mate! :-)
Mark, it's comical watching you take the WRONG approach to every thing you do . . from an engineering perspective.
Thanks for the show, it was both extremely frustrating and entertaing to watch!
I gotta admire your "can-do" attitude, keep at it mate, you are going well.
Did you find a steering dampener was worth it? Cheers
+ExpeditionMarc I haven't put it on yet!
Epic! Man vs bolt!!
Actually, even a pipe to extend that 3/8" ratchet would do the trick......you just needed a little more leverage. You were using the wrong tools on those tough ones. Nice video though!
I don't work on my bike because that bolt is everywhere
Righty tighty.. lefty Lucy 😁
they also sell a certain wrench for pre load adjustment, I got one for my dr 350 that you can adjust on the trail if between having luggage on your bike and not.
www.thisoldtractor.com/dr350_shock_adjustment_wrench.html
Im not sure if your new spring will raise your bike much, but lowering links might work, if it is higher.
keep that trophy lol that's a reminder of the day the bolt finally met it's match lol well done mate its shit when that happens
You need to get an impact wrench brother LOL
Damn bolt! Hate when that happens!
breaker bar and some heat man anda 6pt socket or wrench
i'm no expert but greasing that bolt might have backfired on you, by that i mean you might have shaken the bolt loose and lost it.
“That’s anti-clockwise’…🤣🤣🤣
They are frigging tight. I have a 750mm breaker bar and I stopped and thought the same 👍🏻😁 Suzuki don’t stuff about with pussy-torque. 😳
Hammer and wrench maybe not the best 😳 but appreciate your enthusiasm 😁
1/2’ socket set and breaker bar for birthday 😁
That was more drama than a midday soap opera. I watched the entire thing just to see if you succeeded.
there its always that bolt on the dr. always
That was epic, but it didn't beat you. RSM8
Compressor and impact gun.
lubrication... We all need it man.
+Christiaan Cronje - :-)
A doodle lacky thing lol. Easy out.
Buy some sockets and a breaker bar you’re killing me
That's what a $10 breaker bar is for
you are not using the right tools!
maybe soak the treads of the bolt for 24 hours with wd-40
God, what a nightmare
Spring says wants to stay sprung I say good idea
join 2 spanners together its probaly just a kiwi thing
🤘🏻 🌟 🤘
i saved about half of this video by having the right tools, which this bloke doesn't. Three nuts took him a day and a half to get undone. They took me about 5 seconds each with a rattle gun. Demonstrating with completely inadequate tools is hopeless.
Hope you feel better about yourself now! :-)
the end was cool never give up
top stuff bud