I have 3 of these now and asbsolutely love them, but you are completely right in that they have some significant downsides. My experience is very similar to yours, but still a bit different but thats to be expected as we all have different experiences, use cases and preferences. - While I do think this is way too bulky to put in a pocket (like cargo pants), I have absolutely no problem putting this in a backpack. I dont feel the weight, and the added functionality from this over something like the worksharp pocket sharpener or the fällkniven DC4 is absolutely worth it to me. I even recently packed one in my suitcase for holiday and used it to fix an unusable kitchen knife in my hotel room. I really think this is more portable than you give it credit for. - I 100% agree on this needing some kind of pouch or case. Its literally sold as a "field sharpener" and bringing this into the field it really needs some way to protect its many surfaces from wear and contamination. Personally I solved this by 3D printing a small case for it. But yeah, it really should come with one. - Contamination between the diamond plates I dont necessarily find to be a huge problem on this, mainly because both of them are pretty coarse and its meant for field sharpening tools and knives so they work until you get back home and can do it properly. This point I think is more a difference of expectations. Also if you use this on a desk or such, its much easier to be more careful so it doesnt happen that much. What I do find to be a problem though, is the plates contaminating the leather strop with diamond particles and steel dust. It can make the strop borderline unusable very quickly. - Thank you for pointing out how bad the leather strop comes from factory. Not only is it so small its hard to get good results with, but the leather itself seems to be very poor quality and the stropping compound it comes with is really bad. The first time I tried it, I was so confused as to why it didnt seem to work at all, then moved on to one of my regular strops and got perfect results again. So I did the same thing as you, I sanded down the surface with coarse paper to get rid of the compound, then fine paper to make the surface nicer, then put a 5/6 micron diamond emulsion on it which I think fits the rest of the grits on this very well. Its still not good as far as strops go, but at least it can functionally remove burrs and touch up edges now. So many reviewers love the strop on this, I think its the worst part of it. - Honestly, I dont know if the coarse side of the ceramic rod is problematic because quite frankly I never use it. But what you say makes sense, so I absolutely believe you. - Ive not had issues with this being hard to clean, but thats mostly because I dont see much need to clean it at all. I usually keep the sharpening surfaces as clean as I can, and since those are removable its not too hard even if its really dirty, but I dont really feel the need to keep the frame/inside of the tool very clean unless its so bad that dirt gets on to the sharpening surfaces. I guess im just okay with it being a bit dirty haha - Pushing the pin out needing a separate tool is a good point imo, but at the same time ive never carried this anywhere where I dont also have a multitool and/or knife that I can use for it. I mean, why carry a sharpener if you dont have anything that needs to be sharpened, right? Worst case one could always put something like a paper clip inside the tool for this purpose. For fun I just tested and if you double fold a paper clip, place it against the pin and smack it against a table then it does come out. Also, I dont necessarily see the need to disassemble this in the field for cleaning. Has it malfunctioned for you or something? - I very much agree on the spare parts thing. Its hard to find and buying straight from Worksharp is not a good option for many countries because of VAT/taxes, transport cost and transit time. Some countries they dont even bother to ship to at all. - I dont know if I can agree this is bad for beginners, usability is much of what they are selling here. It does have some traps one can fall into, but I think its a really good teaching tool at least. It helps you with the angles, it cuts very efficiently and it rewards you for taking your time and being accurate which is a huge benefit for anyone wanting to move over to freehand sharpening on stones later. I also think the instructions it comes with is helpful for novices. I also think its important to remember that you cannot do any damage to a knife on this sharpener that cannot be fixed by the same exact sharpener. Same as "real" stones really, you if you dont take your time you can skip off the stone, dig into it, hit nearby surfaces etc. But the same stone can still fix your mistake. - One thing that really bothers me that you did not mention, is the angle guides. I generally avoid using them because I want to do my own angles, and to avoid touching them theres a fairly large area of the plates that is not used. I have tried fixing this by taking the plates off and using them on their own, but I also feel like that defeats some of the purpose of it. Since the angle guides are also the feet of the sharpener, I understand that they have to be there, but I would love if they were magnetically detachable like the diamond plates so I could use all of the plate without being forced into a 20 degree angle. These are just my thoughts and opinions though, yours are absolutely valid too and im not trying to say you are wrong. Im just offering a different perspective. I do appreciate someone talking about these things though, since reviews that only praise are not worth much to someone looking to buy it. Keep up the good work!
Oh I forgot to say, but the ceramic rod for serrations is also a downside to me. It works in a pinch, but the travel is so short that you have to spend alot of time on it which gives you more chances to mess up. Its also useless for actual sharpening of serrations, it only works for light touching up and honing serrations that are already in decent condition.
Thank you so much for your amazing comments and your feedback. I agree with you - 3D printing solution would be really cool. I am actually experimenting with different sheaths and pouches 😁 but I haven’t found the perfect solution. You are right with the angle guides. This topic is an important point for a review especially when someone needs to sharpen for example scandi grinds 😁 1000 thanks for your review and your ideas
One downside is the 20 degree guides don't apply to all knives, but it's still a great tool, it's made an expert knife sharpener out of me. For the field there are some good small pull through sharpeners or pull through honers that maintain the edge real well.
I put an appropriately sized nail in the storage area under the diamond plate for pushing out the pin that holds the ceramic rod in place (filed the tip to make it blunt and flat-faced)
You can also cover the holes inside the cavity with duct tape to reduce cross contamination of diamond plates if you don't use the arrow head sharpening jigs, and there is a video on YT explaining how to omit the pin holding the ceramic rod, and install a simple o ring, provides retention just as well😂
Good points, but not persuasive enough to change my opinion. I've used mine to sharpen everything from SAK scissors to 8" chef knives. I have a WS Knife and Tool sharpener, but I rarely use it. So far, the GFS has done everything I've needed it to do.
It's somewhat bulky for a field tool, but actually quite small compared to a big stone or diamond plate. For me, it's been most useful as a compact-ish means of bringing a stropping leather along.
Nice video, just one question... why do you think it's too big for a backpack? I can literally fit it in my cargo pants pockets, with or without a case.
Thank you for your comment. I like lightweight gear in a compact size for my outdoor activities. And I think the dimensions without a sheath are a little bit too large. Kind regards Clemens
You can use a pen to drift the pin some of the way out. Then spin the handle on the rod until its stop pushes the pin the rest of the way out. It won't come out completely, but it _will_ get out of the way. Plus, if it's still in its hole (albeit out of the rod's way), you can't lose it (or srick it in backwards).
@@edcideas Yeh, that's always a risk. I used a screwdriver the first time, then I realised that I can just use the stop to drift it out the rest of the way, so the corkscrew on my SAK is fine, but also I don't want it to get loose, so I avoid touching it unless necessary.
i really like this video as it is an honest review BUT those a problems that can easily be fixed that's why i think it is a bit unfair , here is how you can fix all of those issues in order in which they were stated 1) it is big : yes it is big,but if you do not want such a big one(though it is in fact quite small for the job it does) the Worksharp pocket knife sharpener is your solution (it is a big as my birbury multitool,so ~11/12 cm long) 2)it does not come with a pouch : it is true though i think it is being picky as although diamond plates ceramic and all that does wears out,it is really hard and lasts a good dozen of years before replacement(if it lasts only a few years for you,that means you either use it wrong OR the diamond apsces are filled with metalic debris,gently clean the plate with abondant water and a tooth brush) and once again,there are always separated pouches and pockets in packpacks and if it does not fit in,then the pocket sharpener is still an option 3) ceramic rod is not protected : once again,really picky in my opinion as it is not like in a potential situation where something that could break the sharpener would happen,it would automaticly hit the ceramic side out of the 5 other sides(and it is protected from the sides by the way) 4)plates facing each other : just clean it once again 5) leather strop pre-loaded : i guess it is simply personal preference at this point 6)chips on hard steel agaiunst ceramic : it is not an issue, hard steels are known to chip as they are brittle,which is why most of the time good blades are based off "soft" materials that are then hardened,here the issue is you not considerating the HRC of your blade and treat it like a simple blade, as logic as it sounds a 5cr15 blade will not be treated equal to a magna-cut blade,which is why you also have a fine side on the ceramic rod 7) hard to clean : at this point is is just ridiculous,let me introduce you to water 8) hitting the diamond plates while honning on the ceramic rod : once again the tool is not the problem,miss-using the tool is it is for the the "explanations" and once again the pocket field sharpener is cheaper,lighter and smaller but still reliable as it has a 320# diamond plate with the 4 25° guides wheights 1.8 OZ(51g) and has a 3 years waranty as well as the fine honning ceramic side AND 2 lane yards holes to carry it with a rope(though it EASILY fits in a pocket pouch or anywhere else) i often use it to restore a rasor sharp edges to my knives, hope it has been useful to you !
Thank you so much 😊 I am always happy when I get a feedback. I understand your points. I am outdoor guy and this was my honest opinion. It’s a great tool with an excellent price performance. I don’t like the videos that tell us, that this is the perfect sharpening solution. I like the videos that tell us individual points for improvements. I think depending on the use case these points are points 😁 By the way - I am very familiar with water and tool maintenance. Depending on the situation it’s not always possible to clean the maintenance tools in the field… because it’s the field 😉 let me introduce you the field and the deep forest 😉 Best regards and a fantastic from Germany
@@edcideas hah yes you are right, i do think the Worksharp Pocket would suit you though ! as although it is a bit less because it has less fonctionalities , it is really good on putting an edge fast onto something and really easy to carry !
Your videos are fantastic, IMO. This is an excellent alternative view of this tool, which is my main sharpening tool at my home. BUT your text on screen is too small.
Thank you so much for your kind words and your feedback. I think it’s important to show aspects of the gear that the most people don’t talk about. I will work on the screen text and I have to improve my English 😁 kind regards Clemens
Ersatzteile, bzw. ein neues Gerät gibt es zwischen 5 und 9 Euro bei anderen Anbietern ... Habe das Gerät auch für 37 Euro gekauft und durch Zufall woanders für o.g. Preis entdeckt ... Habe mal ein "Billigteil" bestellt um es zu vergleichen, ist aber noch unterwegs ... 🙂
Ok, der Nachbau ist gestern gekommen ... Auf den ersten Blick ist es ein 1 zu 1 Nachbau. Farblich ist das Gelb und Rot aber etwas anders gehalten ... Statt 3 Streifen im Griff, befinden sich im Nachbau 3 Punkte. Qualitativ vom Kunststoff würde ich jetzt erstmal keinen Unterschied bemerken ... Alles sieht soweit identisch und gleich verarbeitet aus. Alles ist miteinander kompatibel und lässt sich auch untereinander austauschen ... Allerdings gibt es Unterschiede: Das Original besitzt 600 und 220 Diamantschleifplatten. Beim Nachbau würde ich behaupten, es sind 400 und 220 Diamantschleifplatten. Beim Original ist der Keramikschleifstab sehr fein. Work Sharp macht hier keine Angaben, aber wenn ich jetzt einfach von 10.000 ausgehe, würde ich beim Nachbau von 6.000 ausgehen ... Der Unterschied ist auf jeden Fall fühlbar ... Der Nachbau hat mich 8.09 Euro gekostet, das Original 37 Euro ... Möge jeder für sich selbst entscheiden ... 🙂
You, Sir, are absolutely correct. I made a PVC, from scrap, holder for it. Made it even larger in my bag. As for one specialized tool, that's capitalism 😝! I have a drawer full of very small, variously sized torx drivers for this knife, that knife, a scope ring here and there...
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have 3 of these now and asbsolutely love them, but you are completely right in that they have some significant downsides. My experience is very similar to yours, but still a bit different but thats to be expected as we all have different experiences, use cases and preferences.
- While I do think this is way too bulky to put in a pocket (like cargo pants), I have absolutely no problem putting this in a backpack. I dont feel the weight, and the added functionality from this over something like the worksharp pocket sharpener or the fällkniven DC4 is absolutely worth it to me. I even recently packed one in my suitcase for holiday and used it to fix an unusable kitchen knife in my hotel room. I really think this is more portable than you give it credit for.
- I 100% agree on this needing some kind of pouch or case. Its literally sold as a "field sharpener" and bringing this into the field it really needs some way to protect its many surfaces from wear and contamination. Personally I solved this by 3D printing a small case for it. But yeah, it really should come with one.
- Contamination between the diamond plates I dont necessarily find to be a huge problem on this, mainly because both of them are pretty coarse and its meant for field sharpening tools and knives so they work until you get back home and can do it properly. This point I think is more a difference of expectations. Also if you use this on a desk or such, its much easier to be more careful so it doesnt happen that much. What I do find to be a problem though, is the plates contaminating the leather strop with diamond particles and steel dust. It can make the strop borderline unusable very quickly.
- Thank you for pointing out how bad the leather strop comes from factory. Not only is it so small its hard to get good results with, but the leather itself seems to be very poor quality and the stropping compound it comes with is really bad. The first time I tried it, I was so confused as to why it didnt seem to work at all, then moved on to one of my regular strops and got perfect results again. So I did the same thing as you, I sanded down the surface with coarse paper to get rid of the compound, then fine paper to make the surface nicer, then put a 5/6 micron diamond emulsion on it which I think fits the rest of the grits on this very well. Its still not good as far as strops go, but at least it can functionally remove burrs and touch up edges now. So many reviewers love the strop on this, I think its the worst part of it.
- Honestly, I dont know if the coarse side of the ceramic rod is problematic because quite frankly I never use it. But what you say makes sense, so I absolutely believe you.
- Ive not had issues with this being hard to clean, but thats mostly because I dont see much need to clean it at all. I usually keep the sharpening surfaces as clean as I can, and since those are removable its not too hard even if its really dirty, but I dont really feel the need to keep the frame/inside of the tool very clean unless its so bad that dirt gets on to the sharpening surfaces. I guess im just okay with it being a bit dirty haha
- Pushing the pin out needing a separate tool is a good point imo, but at the same time ive never carried this anywhere where I dont also have a multitool and/or knife that I can use for it. I mean, why carry a sharpener if you dont have anything that needs to be sharpened, right? Worst case one could always put something like a paper clip inside the tool for this purpose. For fun I just tested and if you double fold a paper clip, place it against the pin and smack it against a table then it does come out. Also, I dont necessarily see the need to disassemble this in the field for cleaning. Has it malfunctioned for you or something?
- I very much agree on the spare parts thing. Its hard to find and buying straight from Worksharp is not a good option for many countries because of VAT/taxes, transport cost and transit time. Some countries they dont even bother to ship to at all.
- I dont know if I can agree this is bad for beginners, usability is much of what they are selling here. It does have some traps one can fall into, but I think its a really good teaching tool at least. It helps you with the angles, it cuts very efficiently and it rewards you for taking your time and being accurate which is a huge benefit for anyone wanting to move over to freehand sharpening on stones later. I also think the instructions it comes with is helpful for novices. I also think its important to remember that you cannot do any damage to a knife on this sharpener that cannot be fixed by the same exact sharpener. Same as "real" stones really, you if you dont take your time you can skip off the stone, dig into it, hit nearby surfaces etc. But the same stone can still fix your mistake.
- One thing that really bothers me that you did not mention, is the angle guides. I generally avoid using them because I want to do my own angles, and to avoid touching them theres a fairly large area of the plates that is not used. I have tried fixing this by taking the plates off and using them on their own, but I also feel like that defeats some of the purpose of it. Since the angle guides are also the feet of the sharpener, I understand that they have to be there, but I would love if they were magnetically detachable like the diamond plates so I could use all of the plate without being forced into a 20 degree angle.
These are just my thoughts and opinions though, yours are absolutely valid too and im not trying to say you are wrong. Im just offering a different perspective. I do appreciate someone talking about these things though, since reviews that only praise are not worth much to someone looking to buy it. Keep up the good work!
Oh I forgot to say, but the ceramic rod for serrations is also a downside to me. It works in a pinch, but the travel is so short that you have to spend alot of time on it which gives you more chances to mess up. Its also useless for actual sharpening of serrations, it only works for light touching up and honing serrations that are already in decent condition.
Thank you so much for your amazing comments and your feedback. I agree with you - 3D printing solution would be really cool. I am actually experimenting with different sheaths and pouches 😁 but I haven’t found the perfect solution.
You are right with the angle guides. This topic is an important point for a review especially when someone needs to sharpen for example scandi grinds 😁
1000 thanks for your review and your ideas
One downside is the 20 degree guides don't apply to all knives, but it's still a great tool, it's made an expert knife sharpener out of me. For the field there are some good small pull through sharpeners or pull through honers that maintain the edge real well.
@@martinschulz9381 I agree with you 😁🤝 it’s not perfect but it’s a great tool 😁
I ordered a hard case on Amazon for mine and I love it. It even looks like it’s made by work sharp even though it’s not.
I will check it out 😁 thank you 😊
I appreciate constructive criticism like this. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your comment 😁 I think it’s always important that the criticism is constructive
I use a pencil eraser to clean both diamond and ceramic and store it inside the tool
I think that’s the best method 😁👌🏻
I've seen people do that, but the reason I have can't cut the mustard, as we said In our youth.
I put an appropriately sized nail in the storage area under the diamond plate for pushing out the pin that holds the ceramic rod in place (filed the tip to make it blunt and flat-faced)
That’s a great idea 😁 thank you so much 😊
You can also cover the holes inside the cavity with duct tape to reduce cross contamination of diamond plates if you don't use the arrow head sharpening jigs, and there is a video on YT explaining how to omit the pin holding the ceramic rod, and install a simple o ring, provides retention just as well😂
ruclips.net/video/wXRF2Y0geaI/видео.htmlsi=8O4_QS7SYsbaUbyK
Good points, but not persuasive enough to change my opinion. I've used mine to sharpen everything from SAK scissors to 8" chef knives. I have a WS Knife and Tool sharpener, but I rarely use it. So far, the GFS has done everything I've needed it to do.
All in all it’s a great sharpening tool 😁🧰
You mentioned that there are other smaller and better systems available. Can you share what those are or perhaps provide links? Thanks
Hi, when you look for a smaller systems you can check out the DMT Diafold models 😁
It's somewhat bulky for a field tool, but actually quite small compared to a big stone or diamond plate. For me, it's been most useful as a compact-ish means of bringing a stropping leather along.
Nice video, just one question... why do you think it's too big for a backpack? I can literally fit it in my cargo pants pockets, with or without a case.
Thank you for your comment. I like lightweight gear in a compact size for my outdoor activities. And I think the dimensions without a sheath are a little bit too large. Kind regards Clemens
i agree, i just got mine today and its pretty petite and compared to a lot of stones, its light
You can use a pen to drift the pin some of the way out. Then spin the handle on the rod until its stop pushes the pin the rest of the way out. It won't come out completely, but it _will_ get out of the way. Plus, if it's still in its hole (albeit out of the rod's way), you can't lose it (or srick it in backwards).
Thank you so much for your comment. You are right but I have damaged a pen with this method 😅😅😅
@@edcideas Yeh, that's always a risk. I used a screwdriver the first time, then I realised that I can just use the stop to drift it out the rest of the way, so the corkscrew on my SAK is fine, but also I don't want it to get loose, so I avoid touching it unless necessary.
@@233kosta 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🧰🧰🧰 the Victorinox awl works also 😁
i really like this video as it is an honest review BUT those a problems that can easily be fixed that's why i think it is a bit unfair , here is how you can fix all of those issues in order in which they were stated
1) it is big : yes it is big,but if you do not want such a big one(though it is in fact quite small for the job it does) the Worksharp pocket knife sharpener is your solution (it is a big as my birbury multitool,so ~11/12 cm long)
2)it does not come with a pouch : it is true though i think it is being picky as although diamond plates ceramic and all that does wears out,it is really hard and lasts a good dozen of years before replacement(if it lasts only a few years for you,that means you either use it wrong OR the diamond apsces are filled with metalic debris,gently clean the plate with abondant water and a tooth brush) and once again,there are always separated pouches and pockets in packpacks and if it does not fit in,then the pocket sharpener is still an option
3) ceramic rod is not protected : once again,really picky in my opinion as it is not like in a potential situation where something that could break the sharpener would happen,it would automaticly hit the ceramic side out of the 5 other sides(and it is protected from the sides by the way)
4)plates facing each other : just clean it once again
5) leather strop pre-loaded : i guess it is simply personal preference at this point
6)chips on hard steel agaiunst ceramic : it is not an issue, hard steels are known to chip as they are brittle,which is why most of the time good blades are based off "soft" materials that are then hardened,here the issue is you not considerating the HRC of your blade and treat it like a simple blade, as logic as it sounds a 5cr15 blade will not be treated equal to a magna-cut blade,which is why you also have a fine side on the ceramic rod
7) hard to clean : at this point is is just ridiculous,let me introduce you to water
8) hitting the diamond plates while honning on the ceramic rod : once again the tool is not the problem,miss-using the tool is
it is for the the "explanations" and once again the pocket field sharpener is cheaper,lighter and smaller but still reliable as it has a 320# diamond plate with the 4 25° guides wheights 1.8 OZ(51g) and has a 3 years waranty as well as the fine honning ceramic side AND 2 lane yards holes to carry it with a rope(though it EASILY fits in a pocket pouch or anywhere else) i often use it to restore a rasor sharp edges to my knives, hope it has been useful to you !
Thank you so much 😊 I am always happy when I get a feedback. I understand your points. I am outdoor guy and this was my honest opinion. It’s a great tool with an excellent price performance.
I don’t like the videos that tell us, that this is the perfect sharpening solution. I like the videos that tell us individual points for improvements.
I think depending on the use case these points are points 😁
By the way - I am very familiar with water and tool maintenance. Depending on the situation it’s not always possible to clean the maintenance tools in the field… because it’s the field 😉 let me introduce you the field and the deep forest 😉
Best regards and a fantastic from Germany
… and you say that these !problems! easily can be fixed. You say it - it’s a great but not a perfect tool 🤝
@@edcideas hah yes you are right, i do think the Worksharp Pocket would suit you though ! as although it is a bit less because it has less fonctionalities , it is really good on putting an edge fast onto something and really easy to carry !
@@art0s819 I have this tool on my wishlist 😁 I collect pocket sharpening tools. I actually have around 200 versions at home
Thank your for the helpful tips. I appreciate it!
Thank you so much for your kind comment 😁
Your videos are fantastic, IMO. This is an excellent alternative view of this tool, which is my main sharpening tool at my home. BUT your text on screen is too small.
Thank you so much for your kind words and your feedback. I think it’s important to show aspects of the gear that the most people don’t talk about. I will work on the screen text and I have to improve my English 😁 kind regards Clemens
Does this sharpener work for magnacut blades?
Hi, yes, especially the Diamond plates 👌🏻
Ersatzteile, bzw. ein neues Gerät gibt es zwischen 5 und 9 Euro bei anderen Anbietern ... Habe das Gerät auch für 37 Euro gekauft und durch Zufall woanders für o.g. Preis entdeckt ... Habe mal ein "Billigteil" bestellt um es zu vergleichen, ist aber noch unterwegs ... 🙂
Sag gerne mal Bescheid, wie dein Fazit ist 👌🏻
@@edcideasGern, mache ich ... Kann aber noch 10 Tage dauern ... 👍
@@NuclearSunshine kein Problem 😁 danke dir
Ok, der Nachbau ist gestern gekommen ...
Auf den ersten Blick ist es ein 1 zu 1 Nachbau. Farblich ist das Gelb und Rot aber etwas anders gehalten ... Statt 3 Streifen im Griff, befinden sich im Nachbau 3 Punkte.
Qualitativ vom Kunststoff würde ich jetzt erstmal keinen Unterschied bemerken ... Alles sieht soweit identisch und gleich verarbeitet aus.
Alles ist miteinander kompatibel und lässt sich auch untereinander austauschen ...
Allerdings gibt es Unterschiede:
Das Original besitzt 600 und 220 Diamantschleifplatten.
Beim Nachbau würde ich behaupten, es sind 400 und 220 Diamantschleifplatten.
Beim Original ist der Keramikschleifstab sehr fein. Work Sharp macht hier keine Angaben, aber wenn ich jetzt einfach von 10.000 ausgehe, würde ich beim Nachbau von 6.000 ausgehen ... Der Unterschied ist auf jeden Fall fühlbar ...
Der Nachbau hat mich 8.09 Euro gekostet, das Original 37 Euro ...
Möge jeder für sich selbst entscheiden ... 🙂
Ach ja ... Auf dem Lederstreifen befindet sich kein Schleifmittel ...
You, Sir, are absolutely correct. I made a PVC, from scrap, holder for it. Made it even larger in my bag.
As for one specialized tool, that's capitalism 😝! I have a drawer full of very small, variously sized torx drivers for this knife, that knife, a scope ring here and there...
😉😉😉 Thank you so much for your kind comment 😁👍🏻 this sharpening tool is not very pocket friendly 😁 kind regards Clemens
Cool.
It’s definitely one of my favorite sharpening tools 🧰