No More Leaky Rope Seal! 4.2L Jaguar Crankshaft Seal Modification
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
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Today we're modifying the 4.2L #Jaguar crankshaft for our customer to ditch the old leaky rope rear main seal for a modern two-piece teflon lip type seal.
I misspoke in the video, this is for a 1968 engine, not 1966!
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Add links to all the jag repairs or other high profile builds in the comments
This is the route Hoovie should take for his e type jag. Excellent work!
My thoughts exactly... someone needs to show this to the wizard
I thought this too
I'm guessing its his. Always possible that its someone else's 1966 Jaguar 4.2L but I'm guessing its Hoovies.
He's a poser with enough money, he can afford another engine
I misspoke in the video. This is a 1968 lol
Not Hoovie’s
Professionalism and excellence are a delight to experience. Your shop and your expertise are extremely impressive. So is this channel. Thank you kindly and best greetings from Germany.
Best part of your videos is the relationship you and your dad have. Cherish the times you guys have together. My dad was a logger, and some my best memories as a kid was working with my dad and my uncle, riding in the log truck, being out in the woods with them.
Of all the machines in your shop, IMO mastering the crank grinding machine would be the biggest challenge. Thanks as ever for the video.
Cam grinding
You keep your crankshaft grinder really clean - I respect that very much. Awesome to see machines being cared for.
Jimmie is a very good craftsmen and generally just lovely. Even tho he has quite some years of experience, he is still cautious.
He is cautious because of the number of years and subsequent oops in his past.
Your .5M subs is right around the corner.
This is really a well managed channel.
Keep up the good work.
I wouldn’t loose sleep about the rods not being equal in weight. I’m quite certain this 4.2 Jag engine will run like a dream.
Thanks for the update on this Jaguar project; real shame to hear about that somewhat extreme imbalance issue on the rods. I guess you could bring the ends a little closer but like you said, structural integrity becomes the issue. Appreciate your time!
These engines can't rev high due to the long stroke anyway, so it might not have that much of an impact.
But maybe they could also rev slightly higher if they were better balanced from factory ?
The long stroke certainly doesn't help with higher RPM, however a 14 gram difference probably partly plays a helping hand in the reason they are kept to a lower rpm rev limit.
As a machine shop that takes so much pride in their work, I wonder how they feel not weight matching everything.
It is nice to see RUclips videos where people know what they are doing. And are experts at it. Thanks for a great video and good content.!!!!!
Wow!! That balancer setup is flat out amazing! Alot of people install harmonic balancers but that setup you have there is called doing it right! That is super cool
I'm always astounded by the precision and accuracy that's achievable with these machines. They certainly can't be cheap, though!
Another brilliant piece of engineering work!
As I watch these, I find that I have a smile on my face. Wonderful for me to see in detail these processes. Most people do not understand how being a master machinist is as much about the maths and science. As it is art. You watch the man ever so gently persuade the knobs of the machine he is using. That is the man communicating to the machine, and the machine responds by giving the man what he is asking for.
The Jamsi broom pusher seems to have been doing some studying on the side. Perhaps he’ll expect a promotion?
PS - I love your dad.
Words fail me right now. Awesome content, thank you!
Quality, Service, Attention to detail. Absolutely incredible work.
4:22 "Current Diameter: 2.6notquite90" got a good chuckle out of me. Love that kind of humor
Edit: Again at 6:35! I love it!
I've seen mentioned in several places that OE engine manufacturers set their balance tolerance as high as 80 grams. That is over 2.5 ounces! If that is the case then having an engine balanced to within .5 grams before assembly should make it as smooth as a sewing machine.
Had no idea the level of precision you guys operate in. Very cool
Nice work by the cleaning guy, as usual.
I always wondered what that jig was, the rod straightness checker. The shop I was in, it was never used.
Dang. Some Precise Work right there!
Ух, золотой у пацана папаша. Такого отца беречь надо.
#CleaningGuyShenanigans 😂
Found your channel by accident a few months ago and became a subscriber immediately.
Love the content and the banter.
It’s a shame that cleaner is about to retire , he is showing good progress and would have made a great machinist !!
If your crankshaft grinder is 3-phase, you can always reverse it and put material back on, right? Or does that only work with lathes? This is a great channel. I have a greater appreciation for crankshaft grinders (The machinists, as well as the machines) than before. You've raised a pretty good old school machinist as well. Pretty clever fix for a chronic Jaguar problem.
What a great way to start off Sunday. Great video, gang!
Damn the cleaning guy is a weapon on the tools
So... I see at least the JANITOR knows to check that the rods are straight. Good vid. I wish I had some of those lip seals in the '58 3.8 MK IX that's dripping all over my shop floor right now.
So Awesome to see the final product and the total process
Your video's are a real delight to watch.
Many thanks.
David in the UK
I would love to get an engine built with you guys, such high standards and attention to detail makes me not trust anyone else lol
Wow what a great level of detail. It makes me wonder Nascar engine builders do when balancing there crank, piston rods, ect. Nice work.
This is where you say: We know what we are doing because we are professionals! Awesome tutorial for newbie folks like me who has never seen this type of machining operation.
Love watching you and your dad work.
Is there enough rod bolt sticking thru the nuts to grind it off to get the big end weights closer as well as grinding the inside ends of the piston pins to equal the small ends out of the final assembly.
Hopefully this Jag engine when it’s finally rebuilt, will run much better than when it was factory - and the rear main won’t leak! Love these videos. 👍
We just converted the rear seal housing of a Ford fontana "cleaver" block, from 2 piece rear seal into a 1 piece rear seal. Thats probably the one and only fontana block I will ever work on in my lifetime on account of they are a low production casting.
Your videos are very good. They are very professional. I would like to know what is the use of what the connecting rods go through. Is it a demagnetizer? Greetings from Argentina
I wish you guys were a little closer to Michigan. Great Video. Thanks
So this engine should run super smooth!!
wow...the cleaning guy is damn good with that crank grinder...!..keep an eye on him @ night...i think hes been practicing ...?..🙂im sure it takes years to get that good with crank refinishing...!..keep him around...he's a good employie....!..👍👍🙂
So mesmerizing to watch
Is it important to have the crank turning into the wheel versus with the wheel
Final grain, or surface texture is the result of this. You want the material to not act like a file when rotating on the bearings. Great point!
Good morning
Damn, that cleaning guy is a real dark horse ! THE REAL MVP ! 👌😎🤘
These videos are so dang awesome! Thank you for the content.
A skill short of new comers it’s needed
When done right the rope seal works ok. Done some years back they are still holding up. One is a passenger vehicle the other is a tractor
Hi, if you keep these informative videos coming, you will easily hit 500k. I wonder why you aren't reconditioning the Jaguar head?? All the best.
Well, that fixes one of the many issues with old Jaguars.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Notification squad Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
That cleaning guy is getting pretty good!
Y'all keep cranking out fantastic work and outstanding content!!!
Lovely work, as always.
Quilty work again. Thanks for another very informative vidieo
Always awesomeness
I saw a van of Kroil...that stuff is crazy expensive!
thats ALOT of material removal for a grinder
To correct the rod issue you can put bob weights on the crank matching the irregulat rod weights(not usually done on a straight 6) and balance the crank to rods...while odd this will work...you all so keep the rods in moving couple pairs with the lightest 2 and heaviest 2 .
Absolutely love the content you guys put out! It's entertaining and I learn a ton! I'd love to do this kind of work but also have a race shop attached to build engines and cars!
Excellent 😀
Balance rods by adding weight to light rods. Longer bolts for large end, plugs in pin ID.
super cool videos
Nice jos, as expected😊
I ment to write nice job...🙁
Always enjoy seeing these videos.
Out of curiosity about how much does your grinding wheel wear down during each job?
Awesome
Modifying a perfect engineering marvel could compromise its inherent excellence
What are you guys doing it won’t be a Jaguar anymore if it doesn’t leak oil 😝
Beautiful work guys
@HooviesGarage needs this service. 😂
I always get a kick out of your text measurements of what your cleanup/tear down guy says.
The nice thing about inline engines is that you don't need to make bob weights, so the customer's decision on the rods won't hold you up!
I hate rope seals. :( Pontiac 455 owners routinely upgrade a rope seal to a Chevy 454 rear main seal. My rear main leaked almost day 1 after a rebuild.
Hoovies got a new seal, started leaking a day later again 🤣
I'm surprised you could get your Helper out of his NEW Shop.
Hey clean up guy, how is that beautiful shop doing? I am very envious....
That was quite a bit of material removed. How much can be removed by grinding before lathe roughing becomes faster option?
Is there any chance of seeing the 4.2L Jag engine re-assembled and running?
You guys did well. A 67 probably wasn't balanced so tightly. I'd roll with those rods but it's not my build. New rods? It's only $$$.
I’d roll w/ the rods as well.
Other options are finding used rods (good chance balance will be further off) or aftermarket, which are expensive af for this engine lol
@@JAMSIONLINE I know. I have a cheaper 73...
i know this is off subject from this video. with some engine blocks becoming more rare. what is your thought on the possibility of using spray welding to dd to deck height?
What type of grinding (cutting) oil are you ussing
MORE 4.2!
Wait, can you explain the magnetic con rods?
I was gonna ask the question why don’t you weld the cracks and then you already answered it. But I have to admit, it kinda leaves me
unsatisfied knowing that you left cracks there. maybe it’s just psychological or something like that. But I defer to your expertise and wisdom, you guys obviously know what you’re doing.
how does grinding effect the hardness on the crank or rods? They are heat treated to a certain extent right?
So long as you don't grind away so much metal that you remove the hardened outer layer, and you use lots of coolant to avoid overheating the work, it should not affect the hardness.
@@nerd1000ify how thick is the hardened layer?
@pa h depends on the engine, but could be anywhere from 0.75 to 2mm.
Is this the last video on this engine? Curious end results....
I'd love to know the part number for those rod bolts. We're also going through a 4.2, but ARP doesn't seem to have a listing for anything Jag-u-ah.
mossmotors.com/c32344-bolt-con-rod-uprated
Looks like they’re on back order
My question is how do you true up the crank grinding wheel? Is it done in the machine and how often does it happen?
Probably using a diamond dressing point in the machine. You have to do it any time you re-mount a wheel (as it will lose its concentricity with the spindle), or if the wheel goes out of true on its own. Usually you would also dress the wheel occasionally to remove 'glazing' of the wheel, which is essentially caused by the grit on the surface wearing down and becoming blunt.
I think it might actually be illegal to make an oil-tight old Jag motor.. they are meant to mark their territory! 😂
Blows me away that you can do anything with that whacky inches stuff. Just a nuts system…
Could this be for Hoovies Garage 1966 4.2L leaky engine ?!?
😎👍
😊👍
Hey have a quick question. I recently got my l98 v8 into a shop and got a cam package had new lifters push rods double springs titanium retainers. vitton high temp valve seals. race chainand gears. 10percent high pressure mellings oil pump new oil pick up o ring. And the engine come out and had new cam bearings put in... I've driven it 7 times and only about 1000km. And their is metal in the oil looks like hair and some Teflon and some gold coloured metal as well. I found the metal because the oil light came on the dash. Dropped the oil and my heart broke. The car only has 160000km. Would this be the shops fault is it stuffed
You mean two thousands (.002). Isn’t two tenths = .2? Still learning all this.
In machinist speak, two tenths means “two tenths of a thousandth” = .0002”
Does the owner have a build video?
Grinding a rare and expensive crankshaft must be frightening. One oops and an expensive boat anchor and angry customer. Wheeler Dealers had a episode where they similarly installed a modern rear crank seat on a classic British engine, a 1-piece type which slips over the crankshaft.