How To Set Fuel Pump Timing VW 2.5 5Cylinder (R5) Diesel (VW Transporter T4 / Volvo 850 S70 V70 S80)
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
- Dive into the intricate world of diesel engine timing with our detailed tutorial on the VW 2.5 R5 TDI engine, a diesel engine used in the VW Transporter (T4), Audi A6, and various Volvo models like the 850, S70, V70, and S80. In this video, we're focusing on the later Bosch VP Pump-equipped cars, where timing is a delicate balance between mechanical setup and electronic checks.
Using tools like VCDS, we'll guide you through the mechanical timing setup, followed by an electronic verification to ensure everything is running smoothly. It's important to note that this method is specific to the VP engines with their fly-by-wire system, and not applicable to the earlier fully mechanical VE pump engines. 
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Great video!
Thank you!
@@theweekthatis I've done this before, once, but I followed ETKA instructions which tells you to *first* set the pump lift, *then* set toothed belt on rollers etc.. I think it makes more sense to do it like you do...fit the rollers, fit the belt, set the lift, and finally tighten the sprocket.
I don't have the that fancy counter hold and it is a pain and stressful without it. I don't dare tighten the thing to 160 nm with the pump locked. I do 60 nm or so, release the pump lock, and then go the full 160 nm. Unfortunately this made the timing out of whack. After turning the crank 2 turns the lift is too low at TDC mark. I fix this by adjusting the rollers and make sure I have 0.55 mm lift after rotating the engine. Then I'm ready for dynamic timing.
Pretty damp good video. I have an LT35 and have been having issues with getting my pump timing correct. The ‘cloud’ feature on VCDS is something I’m looking forwards to utilising. Unfortunately LT35’s aren’t so easy to ‘set up’ as being rear wheel drive access for the flywheel and timing marks is a real pain when working on the floor. An inspection camera helps but a real PIA to set that up alone. I am now ‘armed’ with more information regards these things)I have ‘timed’ this pump at least 20 times.. long multiplication is a thing! Anyhoo thansk again..
The thing is, the whole point is the ECU does the pump timing. What we’re aiming to do here is get the base timing correct so the ECU has the most range to advance and retard it. As the belt ages it does drift anyway, it won’t matter to the actual running one bit.
Thanks for the very good video and description , it helped to confirm and refresh my memory on this.
I’m glad it helped you!
Thank you sir!
Thank you!
I always had this anticlockwise and clockwise rotation on the injection pump.
Anticlockwise rotation is like you rotate the pump towards the front of the car or towards the back of the car as you stand in the front of the car facing the engine?
It’s as if you are looking at the pulley face on, like a clock.
Hello sir,
If I change the timing belts, there is no need to work on the pump timing?
@@toun2963 you have to remove the pump belt to set the Cambelt timing.
Hello there, at approx 5.29 when you are adjusting the belt tensioner, you point underneath / behind the forward tensioner and say something like "The tang is in here" ....could you explain what you mean please?, thank you
Yes, there’s a little tang that protrudes from the baseplate that sits in a recess in the head.
@@theweekthatison closer watching of the video it is some sort of adjustment counter spring for that first belt adjuster, cheers
👍😎
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Hi is there any chance tha you can do this without the dialing gaje
No. It’s a cheap tool.
amzn.to/490DhKH
What is cheapest vcds cable that will work
You don’t actually even need VCDS, just something that can put the ECU into basic settings and read the measuring blocks.
@@theweekthatisis it possible to do the cambelt without doing the injection pump belt because the injection pump belt pulley needs to be removed in order to lock the cams in place or is there another way to lock the cams
The cam is locked unless you undo the Cambelt cam pulley bolt and strike the pulley off the taper with a punch through the hole. So it’s perfectly possible to do the cambelt without touching the pumpbelt by marking the cam pulley with paint. However, this is the wrong way to do it, it is not suggested by the factory manual, you’ll have incorrect tension, bad cam timing and bad pump timing. May as well do it correctly.
@@theweekthatis so the cam shaft must be locked with that plate at the injection pump side and the cam pulley must be loosen on the crank pulley side to run freely on camshaft when tensioning the cambelt
@@user-bd6xo9ld2d exactly.
If doing without vcds as i will be would i get away with settjng the pump to 0.58mm so slightly advance?
You can’t do it without a scan tool. The fully mechanical pumps have a much more elaborate procedure to get it bang on with a dial gauge. I got it bang on with a gauge once, but I think that was luck.
Haven't got the scan tool atm a friend does so wil set at .55 on the dtc and hopefully thats not far off il get it plugged in ASAP after doing it. Cheers for the reply
Well I do have a diagnostic machine that can read live data but I'm pretty sure that's different to the vcds scanning tool? Will plug it in and see what reading I can find. Tha ks again
A problem for me.
SLM ustam TLF no
Showing timing lines were vauge at best and too much explanation on how to tighten a bolt. So why skip important details and clear on basics???
I’m really sorry that you were disugsted with my explanation of the timing. I hope I didn’t cause you too much anugish!!!
Not sure what more I can say, it was too retarded to begin with, I moved the adjustment roller clockwise to advance it and it was dead on. If I had moved the roller further clockwise it would have been too advanced. Timing on these is done with the dial gauge and accurate fitment of the pulleys and belts. The VCDS is only a fine tune-check.