@ 05:17 and 08:04 the little groove on the top face of the collar is used to tap the collar round with a small screwdriver of flat drift so it can then be lifted out. No need to try and depress the springs just be careful as you slide the collar off the shaft. Same for both collars.
Hi Cole, how do you know how to disassemble this gearbox if you had never done it before, and more importantly how do you remember how to put it back together after you get the parts back?
Wait, I have to put it back together?!?!?! Just kidding, honestly, I just wanted lots of videos and read lots of books to learn how to do it. Obviously, I still made some mistakes, but the general idea is to just reverse the process to reinstall everything. :-)
Thanks for very nice explanation on such a gearbox. I have did same as you and lost the syncro hub springs. Then i bought new but i have bought a spring which are more stronger, i have bought a springs for the rod type gearbox, while my gear box is 4 spead syncro and pre-rod. when i assembles the gearbox , the gear change is more heavy and have to use a lot of force, i am planing to open again and maybe that i need a lighter springs. According the the cathaloge the springs are all the same for all 4 spead gearboxes, rod or pre-rod. A more lighter ( softer) springs are that are used in pre-rod 3 speed gearboxes.I think that i had these springs in my 4 spead pre-rod gearbox. What is your idea about my problem? Thanks so much
Thanks one more question the motor for the wipers it don't seem to have much power can I get a up grade . sorry for all the questions first time sorting a mini. m
No problem. Those wiper motors can be taken apart and cleaned out, then put some new fresh grease in them. Should help increase the power of the wipers. If that doesn't work, I am not aware of any upgraded replacements but I think you can get rebuilt units from mini parts suppliers.
How do machine shops clean the parts. Chemically or abrasivlly. I have a sand blaster at work would that be okay provided I don't hit the sensitive parts ?
They cleaned it using a glass blaster. Sand might be alright but I’d be worried it would find its way deep down into cracks that would never come clean
@@classicminidiy I also have access to a de-natured synthetic alcohol de-grease/cleaning machine. That and a load of compressed air should get everything out. Thanks for the reply I didn't know if I would get one as the video isn't new. Thanks a lot :)
The short shifters can be great but they can also be super fiddly, if your gearbox isn't perfectly in line. The only benefit is, that it makes shifting faster as you have a smaller distance to go. If you don't feel like shifting is a problem now, its probably not worth changing it out.
It was a two-step process, first, they dipped it in a special solvent to remove all the grease and grime. Then they Glass bead blasted it. After that, I believe they ran in through the solvent a second time but that's a general idea.
The detent springs on the gear synchroniser looked a bit weak? Mine all flew apart all over the garage and yours didn't move out too far. I don't think the needle rollers should open up like yours did. They can be reused if they are in good condition, they aren't included in most rebuild kits
Yeah, I am gonna go ahead and replace all of them I think, just to be safe. A lot of them seemed to catch on the lips of the inner synchronizer. Apparently, those needle rollers do indeed come apart like that. For the main shaft, not for things like the layshaft though.
Waaay late to the party, but the synchroniser hub outer for gear 3/4 is actually the wrong way up for anyone that noticed. He installs it correctly in the next video however
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@ 05:17 and 08:04 the little groove on the top face of the collar is used to tap the collar round with a small screwdriver of flat drift so it can then be lifted out. No need to try and depress the springs just be careful as you slide the collar off the shaft. Same for both collars.
Oh interesting that's good to know. Thanks for the tip!
Hi Cole, how do you know how to disassemble this gearbox if you had never done it before, and more importantly how do you remember how to put it back together after you get the parts back?
Wait, I have to put it back together?!?!?! Just kidding, honestly, I just wanted lots of videos and read lots of books to learn how to do it. Obviously, I still made some mistakes, but the general idea is to just reverse the process to reinstall everything. :-)
Hi Cole - what process was used to clean the Gearbox Casings?
Thanks for very nice explanation on such a gearbox. I have did same as you and lost the syncro hub springs. Then i bought new but i have bought a spring which are more stronger, i have bought a springs for the rod type gearbox, while my gear box is 4 spead syncro and pre-rod. when i assembles the gearbox , the gear change is more heavy and have to use a lot of force, i am planing to open again and maybe that i need a lighter springs. According the the cathaloge the springs are all the same for all 4 spead gearboxes, rod or pre-rod. A more lighter ( softer) springs are that are used in pre-rod 3 speed gearboxes.I think that i had these springs in my 4 spead pre-rod gearbox. What is your idea about my problem? Thanks so much
Thanks one more question the motor for the wipers it don't seem to have much power can I get a up grade . sorry for all the questions first time sorting a mini. m
No problem. Those wiper motors can be taken apart and cleaned out, then put some new fresh grease in them. Should help increase the power of the wipers. If that doesn't work, I am not aware of any upgraded replacements but I think you can get rebuilt units from mini parts suppliers.
How do machine shops clean the parts. Chemically or abrasivlly. I have a sand blaster at work would that be okay provided I don't hit the sensitive parts ?
They cleaned it using a glass blaster. Sand might be alright but I’d be worried it would find its way deep down into cracks that would never come clean
@@classicminidiy I also have access to a de-natured synthetic alcohol de-grease/cleaning machine. That and a load of compressed air should get everything out.
Thanks for the reply I didn't know if I would get one as the video isn't new. Thanks a lot :)
I have been looking at the sort sifter doses it make that much of a difference. What would you recommend it a 12.75 1967. M
The short shifters can be great but they can also be super fiddly, if your gearbox isn't perfectly in line. The only benefit is, that it makes shifting faster as you have a smaller distance to go. If you don't feel like shifting is a problem now, its probably not worth changing it out.
Hey Cole, what kind of process did they use to clean the gearbox casing ?
It was a two-step process, first, they dipped it in a special solvent to remove all the grease and grime. Then they Glass bead blasted it. After that, I believe they ran in through the solvent a second time but that's a general idea.
@@classicminidiy awesome thx for the fast response!
The detent springs on the gear synchroniser looked a bit weak? Mine all flew apart all over the garage and yours didn't move out too far.
I don't think the needle rollers should open up like yours did. They can be reused if they are in good condition, they aren't included in most rebuild kits
Yeah, I am gonna go ahead and replace all of them I think, just to be safe. A lot of them seemed to catch on the lips of the inner synchronizer. Apparently, those needle rollers do indeed come apart like that. For the main shaft, not for things like the layshaft though.
Waaay late to the party, but the synchroniser hub outer for gear 3/4 is actually the wrong way up for anyone that noticed. He installs it correctly in the next video however
Very interesting I didn't notice that when I was taking it apart! Wonder who built this gearbox originally.
@@classicminidiy purely an observation as I’m rebuilding mine at the moment and used your videos as a reference, that’s how I noticed.
Just a heads up for anyone following along - the syncro hub upside down in this
Gearbox ateco 1217