Einstein is still great in studio/indoors (still have 3 of them for that) . Vagabond Mini is good for one light such as einstein and lower powered stuff. You'd want to have a Vagabond Extreme or the older Vagabond II (with a new battery) for higher powered stuff. For bright outdoors stuff I'm using the Xplor 1200 W HSS extension head...it keeps the weight off the top of the light stand because wind is dangerous. If I upgrade I think I'd go to the Elinchrom ELB 1200 HS kit to get HS and also keep most of the weight off the light stand.
You should just tilt your light upwards on the stand when you change modifiers, or place them on the ground with the mount up, then the problems with modifier dropping onto the bulb goes away👍🏽
In the video, the shortest flash duration is expressed at T.5 but T.1 should be used. The web site at Bron says 1/9000s for the 400ws and 1/8700s for the 800ws at T1.
Brett Garamella I shoot a lot of fitness models. I combine fitness with a glamour feel. Check me out on Instagram. @rosariozinnanti Let me know what you think.
You could have buy the Goddox, and all the accessories etc. Now the light of the Broncolor is a little bit better. You don’t have TTL etc. And of course nothing beats the Broncolor system, light modifiers etc. Stuff like the pico lights are unique. So if one is building a system, U fully agree with you : go Broncolor and buy a light meter
Thanks a lot man! Good vid, reale helped me make decission for my monolight-research! Can you frezze Action with the L as good as with the S-Version?Greetings from Europe
Hi man, such a great video. so informative so far! btw, since you've tried Profoto&Broncolor, I have couple questions about them: 1. What is the different between HSS technology on Profoto(newest D2&B1x) and HS technology on Broncolor? 2. Does Broncolor Siros 800S has the same burst shot at medium-full power just like the new profoto D2&B1x(up to 20fps burst flash) 3. Does the monolight system of Profoto really create the "spotlight-ish" effect compared to the Broncolor even you put softbox on it(I mean about the flash light spread) Thanks man! looking forward to your answer
Why is nobody mention the uneven flashoutput the Broncolor Siros 800s?? I guess it´s the same with the 800 L. I have the same flash output on 9.5 and 10.0 in power.
@@brettgaramella I shoot commerscia and I have 3 Siros 800s, and they are now in Switzerland and Broncolor because of my issues, And Broncolor say that everything is normal and If I want better accuracy I should go for the Scoro. I have 2/10 in difference from 9.5 and 10, not as I said before. But between 9.5 -10 it´s 200ws so every step from 9-10 is 40ws. So I have 800ws on full power ( 10 ) and then on 9.9 / 9.8 / 9.7 / I have 760 ws and on 9.6 / 9.5 I have 720 ws.
@@brettgaramella Well does it matter, I guess If you shoot at high speed it can vary, but I only shoot portraits, products etc, nothing that needs high speed. Have you measured your units or are you just guessing that your flashes är in order?
@@Zetaphotography accept that it differs and don’t believe in what others say, measure it self. I returned my Siros Move. They said that it worked in as low as -20 degrees Celsius. But when I used it below +3 degrees Celsius it stopped working. Later on I got it confirmed by their own “test lab”. But it still says-20 in the manual.
The L is for Lithium it's the battery version of the Siros line. Thats what Broncolor told me, but who knows lol. I have two 800 L's and i LOVE them. Great video Brett.
@@brettgaramella Priolite 1000 Ultra is perfect against raw sunlight. Bowens S - Elinchrom adaptor will add your modifiers :) I do not sell Priolite I use them. German design, components, build quality and reliability.;)
Priolites run battery and mains together if you are indoors - charge while shooting. Note all battery monoblocks have lowish max flash duration / recycle times. Physics. To stop high speed motion / have high speed recycle (eg for dancers) you will always need a high speed mains monoblock eg Elinchrom HD1000 or Bron Siros S. Swiss and German manufacture are long term investments. Elinchrom once found an older monoblock from a pack shot studio that had 1.2 million shots, was serviced and still worked!! ;)
you say that 500Ws is on the tight side. to power the sun over. that is at iso 100, but what at 200 iso or 400. I do not see the difference of my canon 5D IV
Broncolor does not support High Speed Sync. It has the old-fashioned HyperSync (HS) mode. Not the same thing. And therefore it has problem with MediumFormat cameras. No matter what you get the black bar while shooting with MF cameras in HS mode.
I'd been a Nikon shooter for about 30 years. I used to rent PhaseOne if it was necessary for the assignment. More than a year ago I purchased a Fujifilm GFX50s. And it has issues with my Broncolor lights in HS mode. Frustrating... And, another frustration is that Broncolor does not have a High Speed Sync; it only support HyperSync, which is the old-fashion solution, a technology of over a decade; not efficient as HSS.
Brett Garamella please allow me to step in here. What opqrst7 is saying is correct. I myself was fortunate enough to save and purchase the Broncolor Siros L 400w version. HSS (High Speed Sync) and HS (HyperSync) are two totally different technologies. With there being plus and minuses on both sides. With HSS, and due to the focal plane shutter moving so fast (which means you have a slit of the image sensor exposed while the curtains are moving) the flash pulses the light in order to illuminate the entire image. HS does this in a totally different way. With HS, instead of pulsing the light, the unit is equipped with advanced circuitry that gives the unit (Broncolor in this case) the ability for longer flash duration and sophisticated timing to illuminate the entire image with a single pulse of light. The advantage to this is that it is easier/less stressful on the batteries. And you can HS (HyperSync) at the unit’s full power setting. While HSS pulses the light, it puts a lot of strain on the batteries and capacitors. And the HSS unit has to drop the power in order to keep up. That’s why you can’t use the profoto or Godox in HSS with the unit at its full power setting. And on the MF (Medium Format issue). Opqrst7 used a Phase One, which by the way, utilizes a leaf shutter instead of a focal plane shutter like most cameras use. And those leaf shutters are built into the lenses, not the camera body. With a leaf shutter (which functions like the leafs on an aperture) there’s NO need to sync. Regardless of the shutter speed on a Phase One, there’s NO need to sync. So if you had the HS function turned on with the Broncolor, that’s why it didn’t work. You just leave the Broncolor in its normal shooting mode.
I would consider HS more advanced than HHS, but it does not support ttl which may be an issue for some. Considering that these units are not a replacement for the flexibility of a small speedlight, I personally enjoy the full manual control, however I'll admit that I have decades of controlling lights manually in studio and it's kind of a second nature.
BRONCOLOR SIROS 800 L: geni.us/ESQN
BRONCOLOR SIROS 800 S: geni.us/6A1c
10 SECRETS For Cinematic Drone Shots: thedronepilotpro.com
S could be compatible with a pure-sinus generator (Honda 900w) though ?
Einstein is still great in studio/indoors (still have 3 of them for that) .
Vagabond Mini is good for one light such as einstein and lower powered stuff.
You'd want to have a Vagabond Extreme or the older Vagabond II (with a new battery) for higher powered stuff.
For bright outdoors stuff I'm using the Xplor 1200 W HSS extension head...it keeps the weight off the top of the light stand because wind is dangerous.
If I upgrade I think I'd go to the Elinchrom ELB 1200 HS kit to get HS and also keep most of the weight off the light stand.
It's been 9 months since this post. How is your Broncolor Siros 800L holding up?
You should just tilt your light upwards on the stand when you change modifiers, or place them
on the ground with the mount up, then the problems with modifier dropping onto the bulb goes away👍🏽
In the video, the shortest flash duration is expressed at T.5 but T.1 should be used. The web site at Bron says 1/9000s for the 400ws and 1/8700s for the 800ws at T1.
Yeah the high speed flash sync is one of Broncolor's specialties. Though not having a chord is definitely recommended if you have the budget for it.
Wish Profoto would start using T0.1
I agree 100%. I have 3 of these and the light is extraordinary.
Brett Garamella I shoot a lot of fitness models. I combine fitness with a glamour feel. Check me out on Instagram. @rosariozinnanti Let me know what you think.
Brett Garamella funny you say that. I just bought a grid for the Octa and a strip. I’ll play with it soon I hope.
You could have buy the Goddox, and all the accessories etc. Now the light of the Broncolor is a little bit better. You don’t have TTL etc. And of course nothing beats the Broncolor system, light modifiers etc. Stuff like the pico lights are unique. So if one is building a system, U fully agree with you : go Broncolor and buy a light meter
I will love to see the video abut the paras.
Bronc paras... plz check karl taylor from uk with his stuff... would say he has every bronc stuff you can buy...
What did you find works with the 800 S?
I would plug it into a wall outlet. If you use it on location, I would get the 800 L or Profotos. Here is the gear I use: www.brettgaramella.com/gear
Hi do you only use the one flash.
Thanks a lot man! Good vid, reale helped me make decission for my monolight-research! Can you frezze Action with the L as good as with the S-Version?Greetings from Europe
What did you learn in 5yrs ?
What do you think about Elinchrom Elb 500 TTL?
Hi man, such a great video. so informative so far! btw, since you've tried Profoto&Broncolor, I have couple questions about them:
1. What is the different between HSS technology on Profoto(newest D2&B1x) and HS technology on Broncolor?
2. Does Broncolor Siros 800S has the same burst shot at medium-full power just like the new profoto D2&B1x(up to 20fps burst flash)
3. Does the monolight system of Profoto really create the "spotlight-ish" effect compared to the Broncolor even you put softbox on it(I mean about the flash light spread)
Thanks man! looking forward to your answer
No answers in 5yrs
Why is nobody mention the uneven flashoutput the Broncolor Siros 800s?? I guess it´s the same with the 800 L. I have the same flash output on 9.5 and 10.0 in power.
@@brettgaramella I shoot commerscia and I have 3 Siros 800s, and they are now in Switzerland and Broncolor because of my issues, And Broncolor say that everything is normal and If I want better accuracy I should go for the Scoro. I have 2/10 in difference from 9.5 and 10, not as I said before. But between 9.5 -10 it´s 200ws so every step from 9-10 is 40ws. So I have 800ws on full power ( 10 ) and then on 9.9 / 9.8 / 9.7 / I have 760 ws and on 9.6 / 9.5 I have 720 ws.
@@brettgaramella Well does it matter, I guess If you shoot at high speed it can vary, but I only shoot portraits, products etc, nothing that needs high speed. Have you measured your units or are you just guessing that your flashes är in order?
@@MrSbozicwhat did you learn after 4yrs later?
@@Zetaphotography accept that it differs and don’t believe in what others say, measure it self. I returned my Siros Move. They said that it worked in as low as -20 degrees Celsius. But when I used it below +3 degrees Celsius it stopped working. Later on I got it confirmed by their own “test lab”. But it still says-20 in the manual.
The L is for Lithium it's the battery version of the Siros line. Thats what Broncolor told me, but who knows lol. I have two 800 L's and i LOVE them. Great video Brett.
I figure the L stands for Location.
Priolite. German quality with HSS / LED model lamp. Worth checking also - now have a US rep.
@@brettgaramella Priolite 1000 Ultra is perfect against raw sunlight. Bowens S - Elinchrom adaptor will add your modifiers :) I do not sell Priolite I use them. German design, components, build quality and reliability.;)
Priolites run battery and mains together if you are indoors - charge while shooting. Note all battery monoblocks have lowish max flash duration / recycle times. Physics. To stop high speed motion / have high speed recycle (eg for dancers) you will always need a high speed mains monoblock eg Elinchrom HD1000 or Bron Siros S. Swiss and German manufacture are long term investments. Elinchrom once found an older monoblock from a pack shot studio that had 1.2 million shots, was serviced and still worked!! ;)
you say that 500Ws is on the tight side. to power the sun over. that is at iso 100, but what at 200 iso or 400. I do not see the difference of my canon 5D IV
I have siros400L!!
Sweet... they're great lights. What do you shoot?
@@brettgaramella my Instagram!
instagram.com/kashii_____k?igshid=1q8lykw6dqlql
first 3 minutes waste of time , I stopped there
We care because of why?
L large
S small
@@brettgaramella S = Speed L = Lithium i guess
Broncolor does not support High Speed Sync. It has the old-fashioned HyperSync (HS) mode. Not the same thing. And therefore it has problem with MediumFormat cameras. No matter what you get the black bar while shooting with MF cameras in HS mode.
: )))
It was a laugh, not approval : )
I'd been a Nikon shooter for about 30 years. I used to rent PhaseOne if it was necessary for the assignment. More than a year ago I purchased a Fujifilm GFX50s. And it has issues with my Broncolor lights in HS mode. Frustrating... And, another frustration is that Broncolor does not have a High Speed Sync; it only support HyperSync, which is the old-fashion solution, a technology of over a decade; not efficient as HSS.
Brett Garamella please allow me to step in here. What opqrst7 is saying is correct. I myself was fortunate enough to save and purchase the Broncolor Siros L 400w version. HSS (High Speed Sync) and HS (HyperSync) are two totally different technologies. With there being plus and minuses on both sides. With HSS, and due to the focal plane shutter moving so fast (which means you have a slit of the image sensor exposed while the curtains are moving) the flash pulses the light in order to illuminate the entire image. HS does this in a totally different way. With HS, instead of pulsing the light, the unit is equipped with advanced circuitry that gives the unit (Broncolor in this case) the ability for longer flash duration and sophisticated timing to illuminate the entire image with a single pulse of light. The advantage to this is that it is easier/less stressful on the batteries. And you can HS (HyperSync) at the unit’s full power setting. While HSS pulses the light, it puts a lot of strain on the batteries and capacitors. And the HSS unit has to drop the power in order to keep up. That’s why you can’t use the profoto or Godox in HSS with the unit at its full power setting. And on the MF (Medium Format issue). Opqrst7 used a Phase One, which by the way, utilizes a leaf shutter instead of a focal plane shutter like most cameras use. And those leaf shutters are built into the lenses, not the camera body. With a leaf shutter (which functions like the leafs on an aperture) there’s NO need to sync. Regardless of the shutter speed on a Phase One, there’s NO need to sync. So if you had the HS function turned on with the Broncolor, that’s why it didn’t work. You just leave the Broncolor in its normal shooting mode.
I would consider HS more advanced than HHS, but it does not support ttl which may be an issue for some. Considering that these units are not a replacement for the flexibility of a small speedlight, I personally enjoy the full manual control, however I'll admit that I have decades of controlling lights manually in studio and it's kind of a second nature.
Whack review... 🤮 on the Siros L. He already sold it to someone who knows Brons specs much better. Backyard, TFP (time for prints, shooter)
Yeah that was when I was starting my channel, which is still a work in progress. I have two Siros 800 L monolights now... can't deal with chords.