My railroad club uses Kato a lot, because they have to have trains running 12 hours a day for almost 3 weeks. Kato drive locos just keep on going through labor intensive runs like that. Top notch dependability, like Toyotas.
Let me suggest a better glue for the motor. I use either E6000 or Aleene's 7800. Both are clear, and "SBR Adhesives" (Styrene Butadiene Rubber). This is the same class of adhesives as Shoe Goo and Seal All, just different viscosities. All are made in the same factory (Eclectic Products in Pineville, LA). This glue is excellent for dissimilar materials, metal to plastic, wood, etc. It remains slightly flexible, but is not spongy like silicone adhesives. You can slice through it with a hobby knive and scrape off residue with your fingernail. It will soften and distort some plastics so don't use it to glue to the shell. I also use it to mount a piece of styrene sheet on top of the motor, then a few small dabs to mount the decoder on the styrene. You can get a small pkg with four little tubes which is good for this work, as the glue will dry out before you can use a whole large tube. I've repowered quite a number of locos using this adhesive, all with good results. I agree with Wolfcacer below, just buy Kato or Atlas to begin with. But Athearn RTR and Genesis do have exquisitely detailed shells. The motors in the RTRs are not very good, but the Genesis motors are just fine. The real problem is power pickup. Adding a Keep-Alive / Stay-Alive, etc, is a huge benefit. And I replace all bulbs with LED's.
I have done a LOT of can motor installations. Let me suggest for both the plastic spacers and gluing the motor to the A-line adapter plate to use a glue called E6000. It is by Eclectic Products. This is, according to the engineer I spoke to there, an "SBR adhesive" (Styrene Butadiene Rubber). It is clear, very slightly flexible (which is why it holds so well) about the viscosity of freshly mixed epoxy. It bridges gaps well. They also make Seal All, runnier like Testors cement, and Shoe Goo, very thick. The same adhesive is also made by them and sold as Aleene's 7800. You can buy E6000 and Aleene's 7800 at Walmart craft department, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, and many craft and hardware stores. It is great for dissimilar materials. There is no better motor glue, in my opinion.
+Jeff D. Loksound and a Kato motor with an otherwise RTR Athearn drive is a magical combo and works as nicely as anything produced by any company on the market
+Rodimus Prime I recently purchased an Athearn RTR Norfolk Southern SD45 W/Sound. It's a decent unit for the price...But it takes off like a rocket and there's nothing that can be done to slow it down. Tried every CV trick known but the CV's have little to no effect on the decoder. So it looks like I'll be installing a motor / decoder soon.
+Jeff D. Here's a how-to of installing a Kato HM5 into an Athearn SD39, same process for the SD45, it's a common chassis between the SD38,39,40,45 ruclips.net/video/iy-VVDM-gsc/видео.html
Instead of the Testors glue, let me suggest a craft glue called E6000. It will bond to the metal much better, and is very slightly flexible, but not spongy like silicone. I've repowered an Athearn SD40T-2 and a SD40 with the Kato motors with great results. I've also replace the old "blue box" type motors with the Genesis-Roco motors, and that works well, too.
If you experiment with both motors (uninstalled) you can feel a big difference in low-speed torque. Athearn's magnets seem to be fairly weak and I think that's the reason. They do have replaceable brushes, though, that is the upside. If someone sold stronger magnets for Athearns that might be a cheaper way to go.
@@ralgith seems we have a case of tomato and tomato (the first one is pronounced by saying the a as in eh and the second one is pronounced as ahh), no matter how pronounced, best darn decoders on the market (I think anyway) all 45 of my locos have ESU Selects, have a good one Dylan.
I agree with both of your statements. I was really just being an irritable ass the day I posted about it ;) But yes, they certainly are the best decoders out there in my opinion as well. I'm mid-conversion for my fleet. I think I have 7 locos left to do.
Ummmm...yeah so buy a Kato Locomotive, I swear this new generation has to number crunch the shit outta everything. It's not a Tyco race track it's a Train. Athearn RTR are fine just as they are. I mean unless yours got fried I could understand, but buying a new Loco then another Loco Engine makes 0...ZERO sense. Kato are better than the new RTR stuff from Athearn so I'm stumped why....like I said unless this was a 40 year old engine that was baked and beaten. Blue Box are still better yet than Kato in looks but those motors in the BB sets are way underrated due to lack of proper knowledge on how to maintain and repair them. Good video but way off in another galaxy for why.
Wolfchacer why? Because kato doesnt make a phase 3 or 4 amtrak p42 they only have the phase 5 and heritage schemes. Im all for less work but kato doesnt make one
My railroad club uses Kato a lot, because they have to have trains running 12 hours a day for almost 3 weeks. Kato drive locos just keep on going through labor intensive runs like that. Top notch dependability, like Toyotas.
Let me suggest a better glue for the motor. I use either E6000 or Aleene's 7800. Both are clear, and "SBR Adhesives" (Styrene Butadiene Rubber). This is the same class of adhesives as Shoe Goo and Seal All, just different viscosities. All are made in the same factory (Eclectic Products in Pineville, LA). This glue is excellent for dissimilar materials, metal to plastic, wood, etc. It remains slightly flexible, but is not spongy like silicone adhesives. You can slice through it with a hobby knive and scrape off residue with your fingernail. It will soften and distort some plastics so don't use it to glue to the shell. I also use it to mount a piece of styrene sheet on top of the motor, then a few small dabs to mount the decoder on the styrene. You can get a small pkg with four little tubes which is good for this work, as the glue will dry out before you can use a whole large tube. I've repowered quite a number of locos using this adhesive, all with good results. I agree with Wolfcacer below, just buy Kato or Atlas to begin with. But Athearn RTR and Genesis do have exquisitely detailed shells. The motors in the RTRs are not very good, but the Genesis motors are just fine. The real problem is power pickup. Adding a Keep-Alive / Stay-Alive, etc, is a huge benefit. And I replace all bulbs with LED's.
I have done a LOT of can motor installations. Let me suggest for both the plastic spacers and gluing the motor to the A-line adapter plate to use a glue called E6000. It is by Eclectic Products. This is, according to the engineer I spoke to there, an "SBR adhesive" (Styrene Butadiene Rubber). It is clear, very slightly flexible (which is why it holds so well) about the viscosity of freshly mixed epoxy. It bridges gaps well. They also make Seal All, runnier like Testors cement, and Shoe Goo, very thick. The same adhesive is also made by them and sold as Aleene's 7800. You can buy E6000 and Aleene's 7800 at Walmart craft department, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, and many craft and hardware stores. It is great for dissimilar materials. There is no better motor glue, in my opinion.
Great video!!! Looking forward to the finished product.
I put also Kato HM5 Motors in some Athearn RTR Models ! Nice Job
Very cool video. Looks like I have a reason to keep some of those less used Kato's.
Thanks!
Jeff
+Jeff D. Loksound and a Kato motor with an otherwise RTR Athearn drive is a magical combo and works as nicely as anything produced by any company on the market
+Rodimus Prime
I recently purchased an Athearn RTR Norfolk Southern SD45 W/Sound.
It's a decent unit for the price...But it takes off like a rocket and there's nothing that can be done to slow it down.
Tried every CV trick known but the CV's have little to no effect on the decoder.
So it looks like I'll be installing a motor / decoder soon.
+Jeff D. athearn makes a replacement genesis motor for the sd40/45 should fit right in
+Jeff D. Here's a how-to of installing a Kato HM5 into an Athearn SD39, same process for the SD45, it's a common chassis between the SD38,39,40,45 ruclips.net/video/iy-VVDM-gsc/видео.html
Instead of the Testors glue, let me suggest a craft glue called E6000. It will bond to the metal much better, and is very slightly flexible, but not spongy like silicone. I've repowered an Athearn SD40T-2 and a SD40 with the Kato motors with great results. I've also replace the old "blue box" type motors with the Genesis-Roco motors, and that works well, too.
Ill check that out
how is the drive shaft connected to the flywheel?
I might try this with my Athearn SD70Ace, speed step= blast off
Any chance of doing a side by side run of a kato and a genesis for a comparison? A couple of my proto E7s will be needing a repower.
Not at this time but i can tell you the kato is better if they make the paint scheme you want
update us on this!
I guess I'm backwards. I love the Athearn RTR motors.
If you want to sell the ones you have, let me kno! I'll gladly take them!
There is a fellow on eBay that makes and sells a 3-D printed plastic Kato motor mount, he includes stainless steel screws as well.
Got a link? I’m doing this Motor Swap on my P42.
Why swap motors, something wrong with the Athearn motors?
Athearn RTR motors are extremely noisey in comparison to most modern models
Poor low speed performance.
If you experiment with both motors (uninstalled) you can feel a big difference in low-speed torque. Athearn's magnets seem to be fairly weak and I think that's the reason. They do have replaceable brushes, though, that is the upside. If someone sold stronger magnets for Athearns that might be a cheaper way to go.
Also, it's Loke-Sound, not Lock-Sound. As in Locomotive.
Actually Dylan it is Lok-Sound, pronounced Lock, so you are both incorrect.
Well, their US rep always says it the way I do. It's where I got it. So... I'll stick with that. Thanks anyway.
@@ralgith seems we have a case of tomato and tomato (the first one is pronounced by saying the a as in eh and the second one is pronounced as ahh), no matter how pronounced, best darn decoders on the market (I think anyway) all 45 of my locos have ESU Selects, have a good one Dylan.
I agree with both of your statements. I was really just being an irritable ass the day I posted about it ;)
But yes, they certainly are the best decoders out there in my opinion as well. I'm mid-conversion for my fleet. I think I have 7 locos left to do.
Kah-toe, not Kay-toe.
Ummmm...yeah so buy a Kato Locomotive, I swear this new generation has to number crunch the shit outta everything. It's not a Tyco race track it's a Train. Athearn RTR are fine just as they are. I mean unless yours got fried I could understand, but buying a new Loco then another Loco Engine makes 0...ZERO sense. Kato are better than the new RTR stuff from Athearn so I'm stumped why....like I said unless this was a 40 year old engine that was baked and beaten. Blue Box are still better yet than Kato in looks but those motors in the BB sets are way underrated due to lack of proper knowledge on how to maintain and repair them.
Good video but way off in another galaxy for why.
Wolfchacer why? Because kato doesnt make a phase 3 or 4 amtrak p42 they only have the phase 5 and heritage schemes. Im all for less work but kato doesnt make one